The most famous unknown place in Iceland - Land og saga

WestfjordsAward-Winning Westfjords - The most famous unknown place in IcelandMap © Ólafur ValssonIt was for good reasons that the ‘Lonely Planet’ guideput this area in its list of the top 10 regions of the worldto visit in 2011 and it won a ‘European Destination ofExcellence’ (EDEN) award.A very sparsely populated region of Iceland, it is hometo the Arctic fox, a dizzying variety of birdlife and a naturethat is simply breathtaking. With precipitous cliffs thatplunge almost vertically to the deep blue seas below, itsmultitude of beautiful fjords, its hot springs, pure streamsand waterfalls, it’s a place for the nature-lover to be awedby its silence and tranquility, pierced only by the birds.Although a region easy to get to, once there, theisolation and untouched beauty is best explored by hiking,horse riding or kayaking. After a day enjoying this nature,it is always nice to relax in the hot springs, well knownfor their healing properties, dine in one of the numerousrestaurants or cafés or to go fishing under the midnightsun or Northern Lights. The tiny, picturesque villagesdotted around the fjords and the main town of Ísafjörðurwelcome visitors with campsites, guesthouses and hotels.166There is much history here, too, worth investigating.Photos; courtesy of the Westfjords Marketing Office.Cottongrass in Dýrafjörður167

A horsetrip at Örlygshöfn in PatreksfjörðurAn old rusty hulk at DjúpavíkThree young Eider Ducks snug and warmDrying fish headsThe lighthouse in Flatey

At Reykjafjörður areaHouses in FlateyIcelandic sheepOne with nature in HólmavíkHornbjarg, the northwest corner of the Westfjords

GrundMystic HistoryReykhólahreppur: Overlooking Breiðafjörður from the WestfjordsThere are still hidden pearls to be foundin Iceland which have not been oversaturatedwith tourism. One of these isReykhólahreppur County on the southerncoast of the Westfjords peninsula, asw relativelysmall and peaceful community, but withnatural phenomena and a landscape that is asgrand as it gets. Over a dozen fjords overlookthe island-dotted mystical Breiðafjörður Baywith its beautiful scenery, historical and poeticreferences and exceptionally vivid birdlife.Looking at a map, you might think itcould only be reached by helicopter orspecial transportation, but the truth is thatit is just a two and a half hour drive fromReykjavík – all on an asphalt road.Throughout history Reykhólar has beenthe residence of many of Iceland’s mostprominent chieftains and is frequentlymentioned in the Icelandic sagas. Remindersof that time are plentiful – including a boatmuseum which has a large collection of theboats which were used in Breiðafjörður Bay.The oldest summer hotel in Iceland, HótelBjarkalundur, just outside Reykhólar, canprovide you with quality accommodation,good dining and picturesque views.Birdwatchers’ ParadiseBirdwatchers are in for a treat as a wide varietyof species make their nests on both the coastlineof Reykhólahreppur andin the islands of Breiðafj örður Bay. Perhapsone of the most impressive bird-sightingopportunities in the area is the majestic andelusive whitetailed eagle (haliaeetus albicilla),that make their nests in the area and can evenbe seen flying over Reykhólar.Uncountable IslandsThe islands of Breiðafjörður Bay are somany that some people say that they areuncountable, but cartographers haveestimated that there are around 3.000islands in the fjord, most of which belong toReykhólahreppur County. You can arrangefor an island cruise with Eyjasigling atReykhólar, taking you to inhabited and toislands uninhabited except for the plethoraof birds which make their homes there.A Service Centre with a HistoryThe village of Reykhólar is the centre ofReykhólahreppur County and provides afull range of services for visitors, including acampsite, stores, museums, a unique seaweedspa at Sjávarsmiðjan and a geothermallyheated swimming pool named after one ofIceland’s greatest heroes – Grettir the Strong.ReykhólarThe second largest island in Breiðafjörðuris called Flatey Island and was once one ofthe most important cultural sites in Iceland.Perhaps nowhere else in Iceland has theturn-of-the-century atmosphere been betterpreserved and walking around Flatey in thesummertime you’ll almost think you’re backin the year 1900. There you’ll find remindersof past times – including a monastery built in1172 and Iceland’s first library built in 1864.Reykhólahreppur–VAGReykhólar • 380 Reykhólahreppur+354 434 7880skrifstofa@reykholar.iswww.reykholar.is173

WestfjordsIceland’s Oldest Country HotelHótel Bjarkalundur is at the entrance to the WestfjordsUnder the majestic Vaðalfjöllmountains, with its two distinctivetops of volcanic basalt plugs, nestlesBjarkalundur, the oldest country hotel inIceland. Surrounded by an ancient birchwood, the hotel’s immediate environmentis friendly and welcoming. This historic andpopular resting spot has served Icelandersand foreign guests for sixty-fi ve years.Sailing Breiðafjörður BayEyjasigling takes tours, photography and birdwatching to seaEyjasigling or Island Cruises is veryaptly named as they sail Breiðafj örðurBay with its innumerable islands, manyteeming with birdlife. The bay itself ishome to seals, dolphins and the occasionalwhales, presenting opportunities to thewildlife photographer and a wonderfulexperience for anyone interested in seeingthese creatures close-up.Sailing from Staður’s harbour, less thana dozen kilometres from the village ofReykhólar on the southern Westfjords,Eyjasigling’s 19-passenger boat, the Sula,A World ApartBjarkalundur is conveniently located to stopfor a breather before entering Iceland’s mostremote region, the Westfjords. The hotel has,throughout its history, welcomed guests andmade them comfortable. In the past, danceswere held during the summer months andstill the Midsummer Night bonfire is anevent frequented by locals and travellers alike.takes enthusiasts out twice a day at 10:30 and4pm on a trip guaranteed to awe.Enjoying the wildlife in its naturalenvironment is a fulfi lling experience and,with the guide, Björn Samuelsson, bringingthe bay’s history to life and taking you tothe best spots to see the birds, seals anddolphins, it’s one of those truly definingmoments in a holiday.Sail to Flatey or SkáleyjarBjörn also takes you to Flatey or Skáleyjar, theonly islands inhabited year-round. Here, youThe Western Fjords are a world apart, asreflected in the folk tale of the trolls who triedto dig this mountainous peninsula away fromthe mainland to establish a troll colony, free ofmen and their meddling. The landscape is amixture of deep narrow fjords, high mountainsand luscious green plants. Tall cliffs, teemingwith birdlife rise sharply from the deep blue sea.Enjoy a respite at Bjarkalundur beforeand after experiencing the amazing charmof the Westfjords and their people. You willfi nd it just off Road 60.–SSHótel BjarkalundurBjarkalundur• 380 Reykhólahreppur+354 434 7762bjarkalundur@bjarkalundur.iswww.bjarkalundur.iswill feel as if time stood still a century ago,their houses restored to original condition.The farmers still live a simple selfsufficientlifestyle, collecting eider down,birds’ eggs, fi shing and seal hunting.There is a rich history going back to theSettlement days of the 900’s AD, whichBjörn tells his guests as they sail.Eyjasigling–ASFReykhólar• 380 Reykhólahreppur+354 849 6748eyjasigling@eyjasigling.iswww.eyjasigling.isMagnificent WestfjordsDiscover the West with West ToursThe Lonely Planet guide book has ratedthe Westfjords of Iceland as one ofthe Top 10 places to visit in 2011. “The topregions list means getting out the hikingboots and camping equipment; many ofthese places are tourist-free and don’t haveluxury hotels. But they do offer pure naturalexperiences with incredible wildlife, regionalfood and possibly a more authentic adventure,”says the Lonely Planet Guide to Iceland.Indeed, the region is Iceland’s mostsparsely populated area. The main servicetown of Ísafjörður, in contrast to the naturethat surrounds it, has been described as afriendly mini-metropolis, and is surprisinglycosmopolitan. It is here in Ísafj örður thatyou will fi nd West Tours. Operating since1993, West Tours prides itself on beingone of the most friendly and creative touragencies and operators in the country.The hauntingly beautifullandscape of HornstandirThe place is so remote that the only way toget there is by boat. There are no roads, noairstrips, no electricity and not even sheepgrazing on the hillsides. Milla, managingdirector of West Tours, tells me that the lastof the area’s residents all packed up and leftwith only their clothes and a few belongingsin tow. Some of those homes are preservedtoday, intact, as they were when the occupantssuddenly left in 1952. One such house is the‘Doctor’s House’ in Hesteyri, which todayserves as a cafe, guesthouse and memorialto the last residents of the region. Now aprotected nature reserve, Hornstrandir is atrue wilderness where fl ora and fauna havebeen allowed to flourish undisturbed byhuman civilization for almost 60 years.West Tours offers a variety of populartours to Hornstrandir, including butnot limited to: History at Hesteyri - a leisurely tour4 - 5 hours long Hiking in Hornstrandir - a moderatehike, 12 hours Backpacking in Hornstrandir (a morestrenuous hike - choose a 4-day or6-day hike)The King and Queen of CliffsThe name says it all! Once you’ve seen thesecliffs you might be spoiled for life!This 12-hour tour takes in all the grandeurof these magnificent cliffs at Hornvík at thevery tip of Hornstrandir. Millions of birdsdescend upon these cliffs every summer,making it the one of the biggest bird cliffsin the whole of Europe. A boat will take youaround the cliffs and then you will be able totake an exhilarating walk to the top.It’s just a hop, skip and a jump to theWestfjords from Reykjavík.The 40 minute fl ight will get you on yourway, making day tours an excellent andviable option wh en planning your vacationin the Westfjords with West Tours.–VAGWest ToursAðalstræti 7 • 400 Ísafjörður+354 456 5111westtours@westtours.iswww.westtours.is174 175

WestfjordsPeace with Nature and BirdsHótel Látrabjarg brings back the simple joys of lifeOn Europe’s western–most tip,Hótel Látrabjarg is set amidst aphotographer’s and birdwatcher’s paradiseat the furthermost point of the Westfj ords.It’s a rugged countryside here, with sheercliffs rising high above the fjords. Althoughthe road is paved from the ferry terminal toPatreksfj örður, the nearest town, from theend of the fj ord, a gravel road takes you tothe beaches of Rauðasandur, the bird cliffsof Látrabjarg and the hotel. The route isstudded with spectacular vistas, ending ina bay that, with its curved white sand beachand clear blue waters looks as if it belongs ina travel brochure for the Caribbean.The hotel has a commanding view of thefjord, where whales can sometimes be seen, andof the bay and valley below, where sheep grazepeacefully. It’s an almost idyllic situation duringthe summer months, when it is open from 15 thMay to 20 th September. It was originally builtas a boarding school for local children.Although it can handle up to 40 guests,owners Karl and Sigríður like to maintaina close, homely atmosphere and thereforedo not take groups during the high season.This has made it popular with individualswho appreciate its simple style, deliciousmeals and tranquil surroundings, with theirconstantly changing colours.Hótel Látrabjarg–ASFA Travellers’ HavenRáðagerði is both a hotel and hostelSet on the hillside with a beautiful viewof the bay, Hótel Ráðagerði has justre-opened after a complete renovation. The8 rooms are all clean and fresh, with freewi-fi throughout.The hotel is located in the middle ofPatreksfjörður which is the western-mostvillage in Europe. Nestled in a large fj ordunder the mountains, it is well-protected.AccommodationThe upstairs is devoted to the dining room,living room and bedrooms with made-upbeds.The linen has been specially made byIcelandic designer, Scintilla. The attractivedesigns can be purchased at the hotel.There is comfortable accommodationdownstairs for those with sleeping bags seekingan economic place to stay.Whale Watching Without a BoatThe large windows look out onto the fj ordwhere, in recent years, whales have oftenbeen seen jumping clear out of the waterand swimming close to shore. The view ofthe fj ord is truly spectacular.Wander the WestfjordsOpen all year, it’s a good place to base from, asyou can easily reach the famous Látrabjarg birdcliffs, the red sand beaches at Rauðasandur, thebeautiful Dynjandi falls and the many othersights on this west part of the Westfjords.–ASF© Guðbjörg Fortune SigurðardóttirImages by © Karl EggertssonFagrihvammur • 451 Patreksfjörður+354 456 1500info@latrabjarg.comwww.latrabjarg.comHótel RáðagerðiAðalstræti 31 • 450 Patreksfjörður+354 456 0181stay@radagerdi.comwww.radagerdi.comDine with the VikingsTaking the Westfjords with a tasteful touchIt’s an area that can be challeng ingto reach but those who take up thechallenge win the rewards of some of thecountry’s most thrilling land scapes, spectacularviews, fascinating legends andmystifying monsters.EagleFjord travel service provides acomprehensive menu of tours to take in all tastesand top it off with terrific culinary possibilities.This is what retired sea captain, JónÞórðarson has dreamed up. Whether youtake his sea angling tour, catch and cookyour own fish (or take them with you, to eatlater), go out in his boat to watch for whalesin the fjords or any of his equally innovativetours, prepare for a day to remember.You may have a little barbecue at homebut Jón’s is about 5 metres long—and ittravels on his boat, on the mountainside—wherever the food is to be cooked!Perhaps you would rather eat in the comfortof his dining room—only you’ll find probablythe most innovative dining table you’ve seen.Shaped in a ‘U’, it has a broad channel in thecentre filled with water, with shells on thebottom! Food is ‘shipped’ to the diners in glassViking boats, sailed down the channel. No, thisis no ordinary dining room, for here, you aredining in an art gallery of works by differentartists, which are available to purchase.EagleFjord–ASFDalbraut 1, • 465 Bíldudalur+354 894 1684jon@bildudalur.iswww.bildudalur.isPirates in PatreksfjörðurPirates welcome at the Pirate HouseDown by the shore, an old workshophas been taken over by pirates,teaching children the pirates’ life. This isthe way to learn! The children watch, learnand put into practice.A School for ScoundrelsWhether it’s making knots, navigatingby the stars, choosing a sailing route orwhat to eat, this is a pirate school for allthe family where the children learn usefulnautical training, dressed up to take theirplace in the crew.The more experienced ‘pirates’ makelearning fun and interesting. Who knows?The foundation laid at such a young agecould lead to a seafaring life in the future—though, one hopes it will be a legal one!What would a pirate hall be without foodand drink? Pirates were never known fortheir culinary expertise or healthy diet—and their hard drinking and fighting islegendary. The Pirate School is changing allthat for this new generation as, in this case,it is good food and drink—not a typicalpirate’s fare, eaten at long wooden tables.It’s just getting started—but ye landlubberswatch out; thar’ll be pirates about!The Pirate House–ASFVatneyri • 450 Patreksfjörður+354 456 1133alda@sjoraeningjahusid.iswww.sjoraeningjahusid.is178 179

WestfjordsHrafnseyriA farm that changed a nation, a museum for the futuresmall, very remote farm, on aA mountainside almost at the end of theworld; the home of two men, separated bysix centuries. A Viking chieftain in the late12 th century and a young scholar whowas later to become known asthe Father of the Nation.Hrafn Sveinbjarnasonwas a Viking leader whotravelled to England,France and Italy, studyingto become a physician inSalerno. He returned tobecome a popular leaderin the Westfjords, onlyto be assassinated by oneof those he had helped. Helived on the farm in Eyri, towhich he gave his name.Six centuries later, from thissame little farm, came a young man, theson of a pastor, who was to change thedestiny of Iceland. Hrafnseyri has becomesynonymous with Jón Sigurðsson, theman who, without a shot being fi red or aman being killed, brought Iceland fromservitude to the Danish crown to internalself-rule with a rekindled self-respect.Today, the farm is a museum, a testamentto the man who brought freedom to hisnation. However, this is no dead memorialbut rather a living extension of the lives ofboth these great men, each a hero in histime, taking their work forward in newways whilst enshrining the values andachievements they made.On the 17 th June 2011, Iceland celebratedthe 200 th birthday of their most famousfreedom fighter, who fought with words andwisdom, as opposed to the guns and bulletsfavoured by most governments andrevolutionaries alike. In 1944,Jón’s birthday was chosen asthe birthday of Iceland asa nation, in recognitionof the key role he playedin bringing its freedomand independence fromforeign rule, becominga nation in its own right.It is celebrated each yearas Iceland’s NationalDay. On the 17 th June2011, the President of Icelandvisited Hrafnseyri to openthe celebrations marking, not onlyJón Sigurðsson’s birth but the rebirth andreopening of the museum dedicated to hismemory on the same spot where he was born.Why would anyone want to live in such aninhospitable spot? The road linking it withthe rest of the Westfjord towns in the northis diffi cult and often impassable in winter.The rest of the year offers an answer. It islocated on the north slopes of Arnarfjörður,surrounded by scenes of great naturalbeauty, including Iceland’s most beautifulwaterfall, the 100 metre high Dynjandi(Thunderer), often also called ‘The Bride’sVeil’. Hiking trails abound in the almostuntouchedlandscape of mountains, fj ords,valleys and cliffs where wildlife is plentiful.Both the remoteness and peace of the fj ordprovide a good opportunity for anyone tocontemplate their lives and roles.In 1829, when Jón Sigurðsson was 18years old, he left the farm, fi rst moving toReykjavik before moving to Copenhagento become a student in 1833. An uprightand forthright man, he had the calmauthority of a leader. He was able toconverse with king and commoneralike—a trait that won him much respectand support as he argued, using hisknowledge of the historical archives as hisplatform, to justify his claim for Icelandicindependence. This was a time whenrevolutionary fervour was sweeping thewestern world. Independence movementsin Germany, France and the USAprovided inspiration to the students inCopenhagen. Jón sought self-rule forIceland under the Danish crown.Through his annual writings,he kept his supporters inIceland informed.In 1851, a new Danishgovernment sought toannex Iceland, making itmerely another district ofDenmark. The Alþing (theIcelandic parliament), whichhad become an advisory bodyon Icelandic matters, under Jón’sleadership boldly resisted theseattempts. Despite Danish warships andmilitary presence in the harbour, forcewas not used and a stalemate existed fora decade, during which Jón continued toargue so successfully that it became acceptedfact that Iceland should rule itself. It was justa matter of how much money the Danishgovernment would pay. A committee wasset up in Denmark, on which Jón served.He delivered his own report, however,demanding five times as much as the Danishcommittee was considering, claimingreparations for damage done in the past.His motive was apparently to buy time,as Iceland was not ready to stand on itsown either economically or politicallyand he wanted it be understood that themoney was given as a right, not a gift.Through his wisdom, diplomacy,eloquent argument and Godly con viction,Jón was able to bring a peaceful transitionto self-rule at a time when most otherEuro pean countries were sufferingviolently turbulent revolutions, in whichmany were tortured, killed ormaimed in the battle for change.Although it wasn’t until1944 that Iceland becametotally independent,the foundation forindependence and nationalidentity was laid by JónSigurðsson. The museumat Hrafnseyri is a testamentto his life and legacy, givinga clear insight into his earlyyears, through the chapel andthe replicas of the farm buildings.The museum was renovated in timefor the June 2011 celebrations with adramatic new presentation designed byBasalt architects, who designed the BlueLagoon’s new structures.The museum uses its facilities to continueto educate and provide a unique setting forconferences and courses run in cooperationwith University Centre of Westfjords,University of Iceland, University ofAkureyri and the National Gallery ofIceland. Visiting lecturers from Denmark,USA and UK have taught innovativecourses such as the 2009 Conference onNational Identity in a Globalised World.Provocative questions are asked witha view to stimulate debate and argumentin order to provide a platform for changebased on discussion rather than violencewhilst addressing questions that have noeasy answers. For example, “What placedo national heroes have in a cosmopolitanworld?” “What is the place of NationalIdentity in a Multi-Cultural Society?”Jón Sigurðsson’s legacyis very relevant in a modern world. TheViking chieftain, Hrafn Sveinbjarnason’swas willing to brave many perils to travelthrough different countries, listeningto new ideas, experiencing differentcultures and to bring the best to helphis countrymen. If one remote farm canproduce two such leaders, there must besomething very valuable to learn from it!Visitors today can stay in a varietyof accommodations in the nearby townof Þingeyri. The gravel road over themountain is passable from Spring toAutumn. Refreshments are provided inthe replica turf house—delicious homemadecakes, bread, waffl es and jam, soupor coffee that make it the most popularcafé in the area! This special experience isaugmented by other locally produced items,along with souvenirs that will provide aconstant reminder of this farm for heroes!A unique feature of the farm is its oldchapel, which is fast becoming a hotfavourite for couples wanting to get marriedin a very special location. It is also thevenue for the conferences and courses heldthere during summer months, turning themuseum into a forward-thinking university,building on the educational foundation thatled to both its former famous inhabitantsleaving such a mark on the country’s history.Interested couples, students and courseproviders should contact the museum’s curator,Valdimar J. Halldórsson. Tel. +354 845 5518.HrafnseyriHrafnseyri • 471 Þingeyri+354 456 8260hrafnseyri@hrafnseyri.iswww.hrafnseyri.is180181

BolungarvíkNorth by NorthwestBolungarvík has a lot to offer from shoreline to mountain topsThe coastal village of Bolungar vík(pop. 900) is located at the edge ofÍsafj arðardjúp, making it the most northerlyvillage of the West fj ords. The villageis surrounded by steep mountains, moorsand mostly uninhabited valleys, providingit with rich grazing land, interestingwildlife, amazing birdlife, beautiful fl oraand access to fabulous scenery.Towering over the village are theTraðaryrna and Bolafj all mountains, quitemenacing during winter, but inviting duringsummer, when the dirt road is open foraccess to the peaks, where one can enjoyamazing scenery. The top, being relativelyflat, is pure joy to roam around with a viewto Greenland to the west, the majesticmountain range of Jökulfi rðir to the northand the dwarf-like fishing boats workingin the waters far below. Indeed, when theweather is nice, a midnight picnic is quite atreat on top of Bolafjall.Bolungarvík has been a fi shing port eversince the area was settled in 930 by ÞuríðurSundafyllir, a lady with superhumanpowers. Before sailing to Iceland she wasrenowned all over Norway for her abilityto lure the fi sh into all the fj ords she livedin. No wonder she settled in Bolungarvíkwith its rich fi shing grounds at the mouthof Ísafj arðardjúp. Still today, her heritageis well and thriving. Opposite the villageis the port of Ósvör, where there is now amaritime museum and an old fi shermen’shut from the Settlement Era has beenrestored to its original look.Bolungarvík offers a variety of accommodationpossibilities with hotels, guesthousesand a nice camp site next to the indoorswimming pool with its outdoor hot poolsand a small water park for the young ones.A short distance away from the villageis a 9 hole golf course, open throughoutthe summer. There are also a number ofhiking trails leading from Bolungarvíkand a tour company offering tours toJökulfirðir and other interesting areasinhabited by all but the soaring birds.There are a number of good restaurantsand cafés in Bolungarvík, as well as a grocerystore, handicraft and art gallery. The villagehas the Centre for Natural Research and hasan extensive bird and mammal collectionwhich gives a comprehensive overview ofthe livestock and wildlife of the Westfjords.Bolungarvík is actively working on ahealth-awareness programme, emphasisingactivity healthy food. When travelling theWestfjords, it’s really worth a visit.Bolungarvík–SSAðalstræti 12 • 415 Bolungarvík+ 354 450 7000bolungarvik@bolungarvik.iswww.bolungarvik.is183

Experience a Fishing VillageSúðavík is an ideal place for families and nature loversSúðavík is a fishing village inÁlftafj örður, Ísafj ardardjúp. Only 20km from the domestic airport in Ísafj örðurit is ideally situated, surrounded by natureand tranquility. The town ‘moved’ in 1995when the old part was hit by an avalanche.Súðavík is an exciting destination thatoffers new and unique opportunities. Thehouses in the old town are now used byvisitors in the summer.In town and as well asthe surrounding areas, nature is always closeby with many attractions. The only familypark in the Westfj ords is situated in the oldpart and the Artic Fox Centre occupies themiddle. Súðavík is a gateway to Ísafjarðardjúp,operating nature safari trips that includepuffin, seal and, of course, the magnificentwhales. Sea Angling is also a big part of thetourism in Súðavík as it is situated close to oneof the best fishing areas in the world.Visitors can choose everything from excitingNorthern Lights trips in the winter to the idealsummer vacation for the whole family.Súðavík is the ideal place for families lookingto experience the life of a small fishing villageand at the same time feel close to nature. Hikingtrails are numerous in the surrounding area andvery popular with locals and visitors alike.Súðavík is a perfect hub to all thewonderful experiences that the nature ofthe Westfj ords has to offer.SúðavíkGrundarstræti 3 • 420 Súðavík+ 354 450 5900sudavik@sudavik.iswww.sudavik.isSúðavíkAdventure at SeaGo fi shing in the Westfjords waters with Icelandic Sea AnglingThe region of the Westfjords in northwestIceland is a world of rugged beauty.Imagine a region where majestic mountains,intimidating and wildly exhilarating toexplore with the naked eye, and the ice-coldNorth Atlantic Ocean meet…leaving but anarrow platform for human existence.For centuries, the brave seamen facedthe wrath of the sea to provide for theirfamilies on shore. In winters, often fearingfor their lives, they faced violent waves thatdwarfed their little boats as they rowed outfrom the fj ords or on calm summer days,heaved a sigh of relief as they set out.To the owners of Iceland Sea Angling,fishing continues to be a way of life inthe twenty-first century.It was in 2006 when the adventurebegan with 5 boats in Tálknafj örður and 7in Súðavík. After only six years in the seaangling business, the company fl eet hasexpanded dramatically with the additionof 9 boats in Bolungarvík.With accommodation available inall three communities, sea angling inthe great fjords of the Westfjords is anexciting Icelandic experience no spiritedtraveller should miss. A day spent at sea,with the occasional slap of salted seawater and the loud calls of seabirds, is aproper Icelandic adventure.Guided tours are available in German,English and Icelandic.–JBIceland Sea AnglingAdalgata 2 • 420 Súðavík+354 456 1540icelandseaangling@icelandseaangling.iswww.icelandseaangling.is185

WestfjordsIceland’s first settlerFind the furtive little arctic fox in Súðavík in the WestfjordsThe arctic fox is an enchanting creature.At some point in the distant past, ittravelled across the frozen sea and, inspite of the inhospitable climate, founda home on this small, isolated island. Thearctic fox is Iceland’s only native terrestrialland mammal and has been the subject ofcuriosity by scholars and lay people alike.For this reason, The Arctic Fox Centre wasestablished in the village of Súðavík in 2010,which is well fitting since the fox is the area’sdistinctive animal.Exhibition of the first nativeThe Centre is located in the oldest housein Súðavík, a 120 year old farm that wasrenovated by the local authorities and issituated between what locals call the ‘oldvillage’, destroyed in a devastating avalanchein 1995, and the ‘new village’, built in itsstead at a safe distance from the mountain.The Centre serves as an educationaland cultural hub and offers an extensiveexhibition on the arctic fox as well asregularly exhibiting local art and craft. Itsmain aim however, is to collect and preserveanything of importance regarding the arcticfox and its long-lasting relationship withman as, surprisingly, fox hunting is theoldest paid operation in Iceland.The exhibition is divided into three sections;the biology of the fox, the hunting of the foxand the hunters themselves, the last mentionedcontaining, for example, objects and personalaccounts from fox hunters. Other material ispresented through written text or video andof course there are quite a few stuffed animals.Visitors are guided through the exhibition,which is one of a kind in Iceland and openall year round. The Centre is a non-profitbusiness, involved in research and studieson the population of the fox. They also offerguidance on arctic fox tours in collaborationwith tourist offices as well as believing in andsupporting ecotourism in Iceland.A nice little café is run at the Centre,selling home baked pastries, light coursesand wonderful coffee which guests can enjoyout on the patio, overlooking the beautifulmountains and the sea. The Café has an openInternet access. On Friday nights, live musicis performed in the loft, where it’s nice to sitdown for a drink in the cosy atmosphere.The Centre also has a small boutique sellingspecially made souvenirs and craftwork.Arctic Fox Centre–HÞEyrardalur• 420 Súðavík+354 456 4922melrakki@melrakki.iswww.melrakki.isL LA Photographer Gives a Different Perspective to IcelandTouched by Icelandic nature, Germanphotographer, Claus Sterneck, hadbeen a regular visitor to the country forseveral years—before moving permanentlyto Reykjavik in 2008. Embracing thecountry’s diversity, Claus has, through hisobservation and the lens of his camera,captured a wide range of alluring photosfrom his environment.Capturing the SilenceA regular visitor to Djúpavík, his work fromthere displays the tranquility of its remotesurroundings, silence and a certain affection.These are often his most expressive photographs.Immersing the Viewer in the ExperienceKnowing that pictures can transport the viewerto a moment long gone or a place one would liketo be, Claus likes to combine audio recordingswith some of his photographs, recorded at thesame time the photo is taken. This takes theexperience, by widening the range of senses, toa deeper level of perception. People have reallytaken to this creative form of media. Tourists, inparticular, are very pleased to take home somelive memories of Iceland with them.Daily Facebook Photos Find FriendsThe photographer started a project inearly 2012, called ‘One Picture per Day’,taking spontaneous photographs which hepublishes daily on his Facebook page. Asa result, he is getting great responses fromnumerous people fl icking through his work.For those curious, his facebook address iswww.facebook.com/claus.in.iceland.Where Land and Talent HarmoniseAn artist by nature, Claus Sterneck lives lifeto the fullest in the rural island of Iceland,where his skill as a spectator shines through.–SPClaus in IcelandÚthlíð 4 • 105 Reykjavík+354 866 8358info@claus-in-iceland.comwww.claus-in-iceland.com186 187

WestfjordsBeauty in RemotenessHistory and Nature go hand-in-hand in ÁrneshreppurWhen heading to the magnificentWestfords peninsula of NorthWestern Iceland, approaching ÁrneshreppurCounty is one extraordinary journey.How to get thereThis least populated community in Icelandis served by Gjögur Airport, with yearround scheduled fl ights by Eagle Air. FromReykjavík to Árneshreppur, flying takesonly about half an hour—the ideal trip—especially in the wintertime, as the roadconnecting the region to the rest of Icelandcan be closed for weeks during winter,leaving transport by air the only option.You visit for the landscapes and the lifeWith Árneshreppur boasting some ofIceland’s most astonishing landscapes,hiking trails and walking paths are trulyenjoyed in this unique nature.Then the geothermal swimming pool atKrossnes is surely both dramatic and scenicdefi nitely something not to be missed.Small but sufficient servicesA bank, co-op and a café serve thisbustling little community; SparisjóðurStrandamanna Bank in Norðurfjörður isopen every weekday but Wednesday from13-16. The Steingrímsfjörður Co-ophas a petrol station as well as a greatvariety of products for sale. Then CaféNorðurfjörður, one of the most northerlycafés in Iceland, offers a varied menu ofnational dishes. Árneshreppur has alsoa great community centre, ideal for anytype of celebration.A trip back in timeFor local history, Kört Museum has animpressive display of old artefacts fromthe area and offer arts and crafts forsale. Another example of notable workdating from the past is the creation ofeiderdown duvets and pillows. Gatheredby hand, the eiderdown is then cleanedand processed by people with decades ofexperience in this field.One characteristic of the area are the twoherring factories, built in early 20 th century,one in Ingólfsfj örður and one in Djúpavík,a mute reminder of the times past.AccomodationFor accommodation, Árneshreppur hasseveral good options. The beautifully situatedHótel Djúpavík offers accommodation withbreakfast and is open all year round.Finnbogastaðir School Hostel hassleeping bag accommodation with cookingand sanitary facilities, open from June untilthe end of August.Urðartindur Tourist Services offersexcellent summer house rental and a campsite.The Iceland Touring Association, anothergreat option, owns a hut in Valgeirsstaðir,with a dining room and a kitchen andaccommodation for 20 people.If you are searching for homely sleepingbag arrangement, Norðurfjörður GuestHouse is definitely the place to look for,open from 10 th of June until 31 st of August.Bergistangi Guesthouse has two bedroomsavailable, each with beds for three people.The old Meat Freezing Plant (nowrenovated as a hostel) serves up to 28people and has cooking facilities.Finally, Ófeigsfjörður Tourist Services offera campsite and even luggage transport ation,from June until the end of August.Any traveller interested in the diversity ofIcelandic nature and nation should not missthe opportunity to visit this phenomenalplace of the north.Árneshreppur–SPNorðurfjörður • 524 Árneshreppur+354 451 4001arneshreppur@simnet.isnoneA Nature ParadiseHótel Djúpavík, comfort and care at the edge of the worldUntouched nature and interestinghistory are among the attractions ofDjúpavík at Strandir. In this remote partof Iceland, a special breed of people founda way to live off the land and, when all thefj ords were fi lled with herring, this quietcove became important in the hunt for the‘silver of the sea’. Now it is a paradise forwalkers and nature lovers who fi ll up HótelDjúpavík from early spring till autumn.Old factory and dormitoryHótel Djúpavík was established in 1985when Eva Sigurbjörnsdóttir and herhusband Ásbjörn Þorgilsson, decidedto cultivate guests rather than fish.“We had planned to start a fish farm butwere unable to get a loan from the bank,”says Eva. “We had bought the women’sdormitory along with the old herringfactory and the hotel started there.”Most of the guests staying at HótelDjúpavík are in search of a natureexperience. Many walk from one fjordto another but others use cars, kayaks orboats to get from place to place.Eva and Ásbjörn provide guidance andadvice on what to see and how to getthere along with comfort and rest after along day’s exploration.A Historical ExhibitionThe Herring Factory is now the site ofDjúpavík’s Historical Exhibition whereold photographs and texts lead viewersthrough the life and times of people inthis quiet cove at the edge of the world.A guided tour of the factory is held twotimes per day, at 10am and 2pm.The factory also hosts art exhibitionsduring the summer.–JBHótel DjúpavíkDjúpavík • 524 Árneshreppur+354 451 4037djupavik@snerpa.iswww.djupavik.com188 189

WestfjordsWhere East is WestFinna Hotel is Set in the Sorcery and Witchcraft AreaHólmavík is the home of theMuseum of Icelandic Sorceryand Witchcraft, located in a region theIcelanders have always maintained to bedifferent – as in superhuman energy andpsychic power different. Consequently,Hólmavík’s Harbour HouseSteinhúsið - modern accommodation in a house from another eraTwo doors splashed with brightred paint announce the recentrestoration of a home built in 1911,it came as no surprise to the islanderswhen a museum and a research centreinto witchcraft and sorcery wasestablished in this quiet little fishingvillage on the east coast of the WestFjords. It’s where east is west.reliving its former glory days inHólmavík, the large town in the easternpart of the West Fjords. Steinhusiðis an outpost of comfort in what canbe a desolate area, offering modernaccommodation in the midst of atraditional fishing village. Its locationnear the harbour and across the streetfrom Hólmavík’s attractions, such asthe Witchcraft and Sorcery Museum,Cafe Riis, and artist’s workshop, makeSteinhusið an ideal place to rest beforeembarking further into the Westfjords.The main house has five bedrooms onthe second floor with two large livingIt called for all kindsof changes for the fishing community,both hotels and restaurants and todaythere is a variety of accommodation inHólmavík. Finna Hótel would be anexcellent choice. It is located on thehill slopes of the village and thus hasquite a view over the village and theHúnaf lói bay.Finna Hotel is altogether three floors,with a reception and breakfast roomon the ground floor. Newly renovated,along the veranda outside, it offers youa cosy time-out, whether you choose tosit indoors or outdoors.The hotel has twelve airy andbeautifully furnished rooms, either withor without an en suite bathroom. It alsooffers sleeping-bag accommodation.The rooms without en suite bathroomsall have sinks and access to communalbathrooms.Hótel Finna–SSBorgabraut 4 • 510 Hólmavík+354 451 3136finnahotel@finnahotel.iswww.finnahotel.isrooms and a separate fully-equippedkitchen on the bottom. An adjoiningapartment with a separate entrancefeatures a large bedroom, kitchen, andsmall living room. Tongue and groovepainted wood walls meld with modernfurnishings to invoke the past withoutforsaking contemporary comforts.Steinhúsið–KBOf Sorcerers and WitchesThe Museum Dedicated to an Extraordinary ProfessionThe Museum of Icelandic Sorcery andWitchcraft in Hólmavík is an excellentplace to get acquainted with the Icelandicsoul. Superstitions and folklores are quiterevealing—and also great fun. Foundedin the year 2000, the museum exhibitsartefacts related to sorcery and is home tothe only necropants in the world.By the beginning of the 17 th century, theReformation Period was past in Iceland.What commenced was a century which,until recently, has drawn little attention fromhistorians. For decades, prosecutions forwitchcraft and sorcery dominated the courtsand it was generally believed that the Devilhimself roamed the earth, taking an activepart in the lives of humans. During thepersecutions and burnings for witchcraft, theregion of Strandir was regarded as the homeof the cunning. As a result the region holds aunique heritage of superstition, folklore andthe history of the 17 th century.There are number of sorcery recipes atthe museum, the potion for making oneselfinvisible, for example, where the preparationof the ink is the most difficult task. “Collectthree drops of blood from the index fi ngerof your left hand, three from the ring fi ngerof your right hand, two from your rightnipple, and one from your left nipple. Mixthe blood with six drops of blood from theheart of a living raven and melt it all withthe raven’s brain and pieces of a humanstomach. Carve the sign on the lignite withmagnetic steel which has been hardenedthree times in human blood.” The museumeven has an invisible boy on display.The History and Annals of the 17 thcentury, persons involved in witchcraftand the folklore surrounding it, IcelandicGrimoires, Magical Staves, Runes,Magical Flora, Magical Stones; they areall part of this splendid museum.There is also a further part to themuseum: The Sorcerer’s Cottage in Bjarnafjörður, where one can easily understandhow the sorcerers survived—why theirsolitude—and yes, they were real.A guide through the museum is availablein six languages: English, Spanish, German,Dutch, French and Italian and shortly it willalso be available in Hebrew and Russian.There is a restaurant/café specialising inthe fresh local mussels at the museum. Surelythe sorcerers have applied their influence onthe ocean and seashore—as those will be themost delicious mussels you’ll ever taste.Both museum and restaurant areopen all year round and in addition, themuseum also offers day tours aroundthe most bewitched area and a meetingwith the trolls that tried to separate theWestfj ords from the mainland.Strandagaldur–SSHöfðagata 1 • 510 Hólmavík+354 856 1911steinhusid@steinhusid.iswww.steinhusid.isHöfðagata 8-10 • 510 Hólmavík+354 897 6525galdrasyning@holmavik.iswww.galdrasyning.is190 191

WestfjordsTrolling the WestfjordsLiving Legends in DrangsnesAccording to an old Icelandic folk tale,the Westfj ords were nearly separatedfrom Iceland by a relentless trio of trolls,furiously digging away at the narrow stripof soil fanning off to form the Westfjords.One troll woman competing against herconspirators realised that her monumentaltask would not be accomplished andslammed the spade of her shovel down ina rage, breaking off a chunk of land withher ox on it, thus forming Grimsey, thesmall island near Drangsnes and home tothe world’s most concentrated puffin colony.Though the trolls were unsuccessful inbreaking off the Westfjords, the choppycoastline of a tiny fishing village calledDrangsnes at the far end of Steingrimsfjorðurbears marks of the troll woman’s handiwork.Her grim profile, transformed into stone by thefirst rays of sunlight, watches over Grimsey.Happy accidents have helped Drangsnesboth in legend and reality. A source ofgeothermal water was discovered whensomeone forgot to shut off the watersupply feeding into the fi sh factory. Whenthe town furiously sought water by boringholes, they struck geothermal gold: a hotwater source that now heats the entirevillage and provides free hot tubs on thebeach from where visitors watch birdlife,seals and, occasionally, whales. Largestones sheltering them from strong coastalwinds have teardrops carved in them,created by artist Mireyja Samper.An annual festival, held in the middleof July, celebrates Drangsnes’ livelihoodby tickling the palette with tastes of minkewhale, puffin, seal, and a wide variety offish from the fjord. Kids and adults cantry their hand at sea-angling, while bravervisitors attempt to swim through strongcurrents to Grimsey. The festival has steadilyexpanded over sixteen years of celebrationand has grown to host thousands of people.The festival is run entirely by volunteerswho pour into Drangsnes to help the 65townspeople prepare to receive guests.Drangsnes has a long relationship withvolunteers who have travelled to help notonly with the festival, but with variousprojects such as building the communitycentre. “Cooperation is an importantpart of life here,” says Jenny Jensdóttir,“without it we couldn’t survive.”Too bad the legendary trolls were too busyto realize this. Perhaps if they had adoptedthe spirit of Drangsnes’ residents, they wouldbe fl oating on an island called Westfj ordsrather than sitting in stony silence.–KBKaldrananeshreppurHoltagata • 520 Drangsnes+354 451 3277drangsnes@drangsnes.iswww.drangsnes.is192