Oh yeah, definitely. The hoe and these <strong>to</strong>ols require people <strong>to</strong> bend over a lot andprobably one of the most common <strong>to</strong>ols is your hand. And going down and pulling theweed, that’s what a lot of people use. It’s easy, it’s very specific. You know, you’regetting the weed. Hoes, or a <strong>to</strong>ol that has a long handle, so that you can stand up whileyou’re working with it. You don’t have <strong>to</strong> bend over and maybe go through some of theaches and pains that you do with some of these. They are getting other <strong>to</strong>ols that havelong handles. Just modifications of the hoe. Some of them are called weed eaters, wherethey’re more of a triangle shape. And you run that along the circles of the ground, acouple of roots and the <strong>to</strong>p foliage from the weed. And then there are other ones thathave long handles that you can stick in<strong>to</strong> the ground, maybe something like this that hasthree or four prongs. It goes around the root. You twist it and pull up. So there are a lo<strong>to</strong>f different <strong>to</strong>ols. It’s just what people get comfortable with and what they like <strong>to</strong> use.>>You were talking about pulling up the roots. <strong>How</strong> important, when we’re weeding,what are we needing <strong>to</strong> do in order <strong>to</strong> make sure we get that out and it’s not going <strong>to</strong>come back?>>Okay, a lot of weeds are really a nuisance. You remind me that we were talking about.If you leave those roots in there, they can send up another shoot, re-vegetate, they’ll comeup. So a lot of times, or with dandelions, even, it’s very good <strong>to</strong> get those roots out sothat they don’t come back. And when you pull a weed, you want <strong>to</strong> remove the weedcompletely from your garden area or your grass, wherever you’re pulling it from. Andmove it, maybe throw away in a trash can or something like that, so it doesn’t re-grow.Some plant parts, you can leave there and they won’t put down roots again. A lot of ourreally pesky weeds will re-root and come back. So you want <strong>to</strong> get them out of there asmuch as possible.>>One of the biggest challenges I have when I’m working in the garden is I can’t reallytell. And this probably goes <strong>to</strong> the way I’m planting, but I can’t really tell the differencebetween what looks <strong>to</strong> be like the beginning of one of my desirable plants and thebeginning of a weed. And you focus on it, because they look similar. Is there a way <strong>to</strong>actually identify the difference between the two?>>The best way is <strong>to</strong> become familiar with your plants. What you’re growing, whetheryou look on the seed packages. They usually have a picture. Whether it’s a cucumber ora pumpkin or a corn plant, you can get a general idea of what the plant might look like.Another thing is <strong>to</strong> look on the internet. And look up seedlings. Different plant shapes,the leaf shape. If you’re really having a problem, let them grow up a little bit so that theydevelop more. You can tell the difference between the leaf shapes and sizes. And markthem in your garden or in your flower bed. Mark them if you're planting in a straightrow, particularly in your garden. A stake with a sign or something written on it.>>Popsicle stick?>>Yeah, exactly. Anything can work. And then just follow that straight line, and that’sprobably one of the best things <strong>to</strong> do.>>You talked about these being helpful in smaller gardens. What if the weeds are out ofcontrol? We have a good, big-sized garden and we need <strong>to</strong> get in<strong>to</strong> spring. What shouldwe know about spring in terms of killing weeds that way, and when is the best time <strong>to</strong>spray?>>Okay, the best time <strong>to</strong> spray is definitely when the weeds are young. When they’re ina very small stage, seedlings, they are killed the easiest. They take up the chemicals the
quickest, and they don’t have a good, solid root base, so they die very quickly. Thechemical can get <strong>to</strong> them and kill them. So spray when weeds are young. If they mature,most weeds, you may only get a 50 percent kill, maybe at best. So you want <strong>to</strong> sprayyoung.>>And when we spray, it won’t risk the livelihood of the other vegetables or flowers thatwe’re hoping for?>>Okay, you have <strong>to</strong> be very careful. Some herbicides are selective and some are nonselective.For example, this particular one here, its active ingredient is glyphosate. It’s anon-selective herbicide. Where if you spray this on any plant, any green part of a plant, itwill kill it. Some of these others will be selective, and they will be selective <strong>to</strong>ward,typically, a grass plant or a broadleaf plant. And they’ll kill just the broadleaf, so you canspray them on your turf and your grass and kill all the broadleaves, but not necessarily<strong>to</strong>uch your grass.>>And of course they’ll, ideally, on the label, have that information for us?>>Oh yes, every pesticide, herbicide that you use has a label, they’re required by law <strong>to</strong>have those on there. They talk about how <strong>to</strong> use it, how <strong>to</strong> apply it, and if you happen <strong>to</strong>get some on you, there’s always safety and emergency preparedness information.>>There’s a term that we hear a lot about when we’re gardening: pre-emergent and postemergent.What do those terms mean?>>Pre-emergent is an herbicide that you put down before the plants come up. Its purposeis <strong>to</strong> go after the seeds, s<strong>to</strong>p them from actually emerging from the ground. Postemergentis one that comes up, you put it on after the weed has come up out of theground and you can see the green foliage. Some of the pre-emergent herbicides that wehave, some of them are granular, like this here. And you can just go and spread that inyour garden.>>And we’re using a scoop, because it’s not a good idea <strong>to</strong> have our bare hands on this,right?>>No, you should never <strong>to</strong>uch these pesticides with any kind of bare skin, because youcan take up the chemicals through your skin.>>So, for example, if we have a shrubbery that we are planting and we didn’t want anyweeds around that shrub, we would place this throughout the dirt area <strong>to</strong> prevent weedsfrom coming up?>>Yeah. What you want <strong>to</strong> do is sprinkle this in the dirt area. And mix it in a little biteither with a rake or a hoe or that little handle that we just had. Or you can water it in.Put enough water that it moves it down within the <strong>to</strong>p half inch or so of the soil.>><strong>How</strong> often would we use something like this that prevents…>>This will last three <strong>to</strong> four months. So it’s excellent. This is very good <strong>to</strong> put out inthe springtime. It will get anything that has a seed, though. As the seed radical emerges,it will kill it. So if you put your garden plants or anything down that will kill it, but it’san excellent <strong>to</strong>ol <strong>to</strong> use.>>And you call that a pre-emergent. I know there’s also post-emergents?>>Post-emergents would be something like this non-selective herbicide that you spray onthe green foliage. And it…>>This kills everything?>>Yeah, that one will kill everything. You have your selective ones that you can go outand spray your grasses or your broadleaves again.
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Okay, and how close can they be pla
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I used to eat all of them. I don’
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I don’t like them. One of the pro
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change those, and you can save them
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that our plants get all the water t
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Now would you consider these warm o
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These are not a storage potato, but
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Alright. A bulb is nothing more tha
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Yeah, there’s some onions. We hav
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Mmm, it’s very strong.>>Isn’t t
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There are so many different plants,
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