Download March 2011 - Bite Magazine

22Off the trolley: Sugary strings and thingsMy passport is slowly gathering dust,and the furthest afield I've beenthis past year is Berwick-on-Tweed.But that doesn't mean my dessert palate hasbeen suffering. While our PM might say thatmulticulturalism has failed, in Edinburgh'srestaurants it's alive and well. I've alwaysbelieved in getting to know a culture throughits cakes, and so here are three placescurrently making their mark in my culinarypassport.While Chop Chop is renowned for dumplings,it's their Sugar String Apple I want to praise.Wedges of apple are rolled in sesame seedsand served with a still-sizzling sugar syrup.Dunk the hot, sticky pieces into a bowl of icewater and devour, ideally with a scoop ofvanilla ice cream. This light, sweet, and uberfun dessert is the perfect follow-up to adumpling over-indulgence – and well worthsaving a bit of room for!– 248 Morrison St, EH3 8DT – closedMondays and 76 Commercial Quay EH6 6LX– closed Tuesdays.Winning the prize for most gorgeous cakes isPatisserie Madeleine where all pastries aremade in-store daily and all are simplybeautiful. The must-try here are the caramelmacarons, although I'd happily sacrifice bothdiet and figure to eat the entire shop.Macarons are priced at a bargainous 85pwhile the exquisite pastries will cost youabout £3. Certainly less than a trip to Paris,but no less authentic.– 127b Raeburn Place EH4 1HU – openTuesday-Sunday.My absolute top find, though, is RussianPassion. Open for only a few hours a day overlunch (but will open in the evening for privatebookings),the cakes are all made withtraditional Russian recipes. Try the Kiev: anincredible meringue-y, creamy, nutty,chocolate concoction that is possibly thegreatest thing I've ever eaten. The honey cakeis the most traditional of the Russian dessertsserved, and is so subtle and elegant in itsflavour that it must not be missed. Alsoworth a sample - the Napoleon: creamy,pastry layers served in little triangles, likeNapoleon's hat. Cakes can be ordered aheadfor a special occasion, or drop in and seewhat's on offer. Try a slice (or three) withRussian tea or coffee: in both cases, strongbrews drunk black with a slice of lemon.Delicious.– 5 Canonmills EH3 5HA – open daily 11-3.30.Bon voyage, and bon appetit! (R. Edwards)I've always believed in getting to know a culture through itscakes, and so here are three places currently making theirmark in my culinary passport.