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‘The best of Scottish produce preparedfor you in the heart of Edinburgh’Deli & Licensed Cafe15 Blackfriars Street, Edinburgh, EH1 1NBPop in for Afternoon Tea!Tel: 0131 556 6922www.edinburghlarder.co.uk
Review: Hewat’s A classy joint’d grown jaded. Once, I yearned forhomely, rustic fare from EdinburghIrestaurants and along came The Dogs,Roseleaf et al. But I am a fickle foodie andnow demanded refinement, “where have allthe chefs gone?” I sulked into my haricotbean stew with celeriac shavings. Then camethe invitation to dine at Hewat’s and Iexperienced a ‘corpse reviver’ of a meal.A squash game followed by a sprint toCausewayside in typical Edinburgh weathersaw Mr Bite un-plastering hair from myforehead as we perused the menu. Theambience is seductive and cosy, a real haven.For starters I chose seared kings scallops withgarlic and caviar butter (£8.50) whilst Mr Biteplumped for the wild mushroom and leeksoup with truffle oil (£4.75). My scallopscuddled together in their ‘Aphrodite’ shell.They were caramelised on the outside buthad ‘inner thigh’ tenderness inside. Mr Biteraved about his soup. It was a pretty greenbut full of pungent, earthy mushroom flavour.He commented that “if chefs master the artof a good soup it is a dish of true class”, I hadto agree.Main course for me was roast rump of lambwith port and redcurrant jus, Delmonicapotatoes, red cabbage, grilled courgettes andvine cherry tomatoes (£16.25). The lamb waspink and juicy, the cabbage accuratelybalanced pique and sweetness, thecourgettes were neither too watery nor toocharred and the jus was intense and rich. MrBite had roast tenderloin of wild boar withmorel mushroom sauce, Parma ham, Arranmustard mash, and Savoy cabbage and roastorganic carrots (£15.25). He married thecomplex rich flavours and textures with apint of ‘eighty’. We scraped our plates despitebeing full because the food was just so damndelicious.Dessert was Tiramisu crème brûlée withshortbread for me and Mr Bite chosechocolate torte with cherries marinated inkirsch (both £5.50). My crème brûlée wasperfect (I have eaten many) and myshortbread was served with a white quenelleof cream, raspberries and a coulis. When Iroused Mr Bite from an apparent chocolateinducedcoma for some intelligent commenthe drooled that it was “the best dessert hehad ever had” and fell back into it withdreamy eyes.Good food, proper service and a talentedexecution of dishes left us wondering whyHewat’s doesn’t have a rosette. (S. Wilson)Hewat’s– 19-21b Causewayside, Edinburgh EH9 1QF– 0131 466 6660– www.hewatsedinburgh.co.ukOpening hoursLunch: Wed-Sat 12 noon-2pm;Dinner: Mon-Thurs 6pm-9.30pm,Fri & Sat 6pm-10pm.9
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