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74 CARAVAN DAYSTongue, was, I think, the dreariest and mostpainful pilgrimage that SIEGLINDA has evermade. The country was almost bereft of anyevidence of life. For miles we travelled withouta sign of deer or sheep or grouse :there were norabbits : there was hardly even heather or commonvegetation. Great uncouth mountains shutus in : rusted wire fences ran here and there.Yet it was not the scenery that distressed us somuch as the climate. The cold was awful. Isuppose that being in the North-East corner ofScotland we were favoured with the first-fruitsof the North-East wind before it had suffered anytempering process. That was the only day in myexperience when I found it possible to walk incomfort in two sweaters, while inside the van satmy Partner, who had already walked five or sixmiles in vain, wearing the greater part of herwhole wardrobe, an ulster and a pair of glovesand " happed about " by a rug yet quite unable:to maintain a state of comfort. I got inside atlast and lit the Primus and added a hot-waterbottle to her accoutrements. The road was badand we had a driving shower to meet. But wewere amply rewarded for our heavy gruelling.Unless you can clearlyrealize the tribulationsof that march you will not appreciate the thrill