September 27 - Westmount Independent

WESTMOUNT INDEPENDENT – September 27-28, 2011 – 27Stir it up!Fall is here. Butthat won’t stop mefrom using my gasbarbecue all winter.The memory of thefragrant apple woodsmoke bellowing outof my smokeradding flavour to myElliott Cohen pork shoulder for 10hours will stay withme while I hibernate.As I get ready to offer my fall cookingclasses, I’m thinking of heavier fare, comfortfood, ingredients that massage thesoul and prevent me from shoveling mydriveway. Soups from roasting tomatoes,squash, apples and carrots. Remember,when we roast stuff in the oven the naturalsugars in all foods caramelize, creatingthat beautiful golden yumminess, crispinessand incredible depth of flavour.So a tomato soup made from roastedtomatoes will have a flavour much moreinteresting than canned or raw tomatoes.It’s an amplification of what’s alreadythere. We can make a butternut squashsoup with apples and drop them intowater simmering them, then purée them.But if we toss the squash and apple piecesin a little olive oil and place them on asheet pan in a 350F-degree oven for 45minutes then simmer them in a liquidmedium we are really bringing out theflavours.I use this roasting and grilling methodfor fruit, which has tons of natural sugarsto caramelize. I frequently get looks of surprisewhen I discuss roasted or grilledfruit desserts with students and clients,but when they taste a marinated grilledapple slice with a drizzle of crème anglaiseor a grilled banana with a honey rum glazethey experience something special.Back to fall and fruit – apples. CrêpesOPEN NIGHTLY for dinnerfollow usristorantewith caramelized apples, endive salad withblue cheese, green apples and smokedbacon. Pasta, perhaps the ultimate comfortfood. I love a simple penne in a vodkacream sauce, and I’m a sucker for a greatrisotto, which is difficult to find in restaurants.I’ll leave you with a roasted soup recipe.Tell me how it turned out, and I’d love tosee a photo. Email me at elliott@ecca.ca.Roasted carrot soupServes four, about one litre1 lb. carrots, peeled and cut into three-inchlengths1 tbsp. olive oil1 tbsp. unsalted butter1/2 medium onion, cut into medium dice(to yield about 3/4 cup)1 large rib celery, cut into medium dice (toyield about 1/2 cup)1 tbsp. minced fresh ginger (from about1/2-inch piece, peeled)2 cups homemade or low-salt chickenbroth1 tsp. kosher salt1/8 tsp. ground white pepperChopped fresh chives or chervil for garnish(optional)Heat the oven to 375°F.Put the carrots in a medium baking dish(11 x 7-inch is a good size or any dish thatwill hold the carrots in a single layer withouttouching) and drizzle them with theolive oil. Toss them to coat well and roast,stirring once halfway through roasting,until they’re tender, blistered, and lightlybrowned in a few places, about one hour.Melt the butter in a medium (at leastthree-quart) heavy saucepan, set overmedium heat. Add the onion and cook untilit’s translucent and fragrant, two to threeminutes. Stir in the celery and ginger andLUNCH mon-friauthentic Italian“this cozy charming ‘hide-away’is not to be missed”4894 sherbrooke at prince albert | 514 564 4256www.11scalini.comcook until the celery softens a bit and theonions start to brown, four to five minutes.Add the roasted carrots, chicken broth,salt, pepper, and two cups of water. Bring toa boil, reduce the heat to medium low andcover. Cook at a lively simmer until the carrotsare very tender, about45 minutes. Turn off the heat and let the liquidcool.Watch forothers in the50 Reasonsto LoveSushi Yu Miseries!www.sushiyumi.comPurée the soup in a blender in batches,never filling the blender more than a thirdfull, and bearing down firmly on the towelcoveredlid so the soup doesn’t come flyingout. If serving immediately, return thesoup to the pot and reheat; garnish withthe chives or chervil. Otherwise, refrigeratefor up to five days.Delivery. Yes, Sushi Yu Mi delivers. FromAtwater to Cavendish, The Boulevard toSt. Ambroise, Côte St. Luc to St. Jacques.Sunday to Wednesday 5 to 8 pm, Thursdayto Saturday 4 to 5:30 pm.Chef Ten Ten’s own Numaki. Everyone fromLa Presse to Steve, down the street, ravesabout this fusion of maki sushi andVietnamese spring roll. Another Sushi Yu Miexclusive. Tried one yet?Fresh, fabulous sushi and other Asianinspiredspecialties at friendly prices.5124-A Sherbrooke Westbetween Grey and Vendome 514 227 5300