CubaThe AlwaysAttractive Landof Rum, Cigarsand SalsaText and photographs: Juš MedičBefore setting off for Cuba in thewinter of 2011, I had heard a lotof interesting things about thisCaribbean country and seen agreat many photographs featuringincredible scenery and those 1950sAmerican cars that are so muchpart of our image of Cuba. Eversince Cuban leader Fidel Castrohanded over the reins to his brotherRaúl, Cuba has been undergoingrapid changes. Tourist numbersare increasing, and everyday life ischanging too. Nevertheless, there arestill things that separate the worldof the local population from theworld that visitors see. One of thefirst noticeable differences is the useof two currencies – the convertibleCuban peso (CUC) for foreigners andthe Cuban peso (CUP) for locals. Theconvertible peso is often referred toas the “dollar”, since it is used to payfor imported goods. The “nationalpeso” is only used in transactionsbetween Cuban citizens.92 | Adria Airways In-Flight Magazine
The Cuban capital Havana has retainedits incredible charm to the present day.Here Ernest Hemingway spent part ofhis life, at the Hotel Ambos Mundos in OldHavana, which is today a UNESCO WorldHeritage site. The famous American writerlived at the hotel from 1932 until 1939, whenhe moved to a property outside the city. Hisold hotel room is now a tourist attraction,while his house has been converted into amuseum. His boat the Pilar stands next toit. Hemingway was a frequent visitor to ElFloridita, the birthplace of the legendarycocktail the daiquiri. An equally famousbar is La Bodeguita del Medio, whosewalls are decorated by the signatures of itsfamous patrons. It was here that the mojitowas invented – the main ingredients ofHemingway’s favourite cocktail are of courserum and fresh mint.Sugar cane, the basis for rum production,has been Cuba’s main agricultural crop sincecolonial times. In Havana we visit a rumdistillery that produces such famous labelsas Havana Club, Ron de Santiago de Cubaand Legendario. An organised tasting of thedifferent types of rum is a heady experience.And other special experiences of visitors tothe Cabaret Parisien at the Hotel Nacional deCuba. This imposing luxury hotel is situatedon the famous Malecón, the eight-kilometreseafront avenue running between the harbourand Old Havana. While we enjoy a remarkabletheatrical spectacle at the hotel, young Cubansgather outside on the Malecón as evening falls.Another sight worth visiting in Havana isthe cemetery – which is so big that roads runthrough it. It is said to be the largest cemeteryin Latin America. Although tourists don’tusually visit cemeteries, this one in Havana isnot to be missed. Family tombs are adornedby fascinating tombstones on which flowers ofmany colours are placed.After our adventures in the capital we setoff to the province of Pinar del Río, wherethe tobacco for famous Cuban cigars such asthe Cohiba, Montecristo and Romeo y Julietais grown. We also visit a cigar factory, butunfortunately no photographs are allowed.The cigars are mainly made by women, whocan hand-roll up to 150 cigars a day, althoughonly one goes to the torcedora herself. Not farfrom here is the picturesque and fertile Vallede Viñales, a karst depression surrounded bymountains that is the main tobacco-growingarea in Cuba. Because of its natural, culturaland historical features of interest, the valley istoday protected as a national park.After seeing in the New Year at a large hotelin the resort town of Varadero, it is time for aswim with dolphins – one of those experiencesyou never forget. A boat takes us out to adolphin pen in the open sea. Meeting them isa fantastic experience. Varadero lies at the endof a 20-kilometre peninsula and is famous forits white sandy beaches and turquoise sea. Ourholiday here passes quickly – even though thereal spirit of Cuban travel is absent.Our visit to Cuba ends with a visit to thelittle town of Trinidad in the south of theisland. Trinidad is characterised by its livelystreet life, although the lives of the warmspiritedlocals are increasingly orientedtowards tourism. Friendly Cubans will serveyou food in their own living rooms (in a formof family-run restaurant known as a paladar)– lobster, fish, fruit, salad, desserts and ofcourse rum create a pure poetry of flavours.With Trinidad as our base, we set off on atrekking expedition. Thanks to the milderclimate at higher altitudes, the surroundinghills are an ideal place to escape the tropicalheat.Before returning to Havana and our flightback to wintry Europe, there is still time tovisit Santa Clara and the monument, tomband museum of the national revolutionaryChe Guevara. Cuba – a land of rum, cigarsand salsa and wonderful tropical landscapes– left a strong impression on all of us, and Iwould happily return one day to this paradisedestination. •Cuba | 93
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