planned to use. This top shelf is now their standard design. At the time of my order, Heights could not provide a sufficiently heavy-duty thrust bearing, so I obtained a Rohn TB3 from a dealer and sent it to Heights for their top shelf drilling. Heights can now supply several very nice thrust bearings. Incidentally, thrust b earing eagle-eyes will note four extra bolts on this bearing. These are temporarily inserted as my own modification to prevent antenna rotation while performing maintenance on the rotor; thrust bearings do a wonderful job of turning in the wind when you do not have the mast clamped in the rotor. When you specify the top shelf drilling to Heights and are planning to use a thrust bearing with a 2' mast, I recommend having them drill the top shelf hole 2-1/4' in diameter to allow for alignment and to let the thrust bearing decide the mast center above the rotor. Heights was very cooperative and responsive to my needs for both the top shelf and a rotor shelf that needed non-standard holes. Of course, the hardware is available in optional stainless steel, including the U-bolts for the rotor shelf. Making the Concrete Base If you've never done a self-supporting tower before, you are in for a big surprise when it comes to preparing the concrete base. The base provides all the strength for a self-supporting tower, and it must be done right. For my tower, Heights recommended at least a hole 5' x 5' x 5', and needing 4.6 cubic yards of concrete. I usually do things a bit conservatively, and my base hole was bigger: I poured seven cu bic yards . After heari ng the ou tlandish quotes from several local concrete contractors, I went ahead and did the entire project myself at about half the cost. Digging the hole takes a lot of work when using a shovel and wheelbarrow, so don't rush yourself. After the hole is ready for swimmers, a reinforcing steel bar cage is needed. I've never seen anything harder to cut than those bars! Carbide hacksaw blades bounce olf alloy steel bars, so have several blades ready. Keep the rebar at leasl several inches away from the tower leqs to keep lightning from fracturing the base and then dropping your tower. I did not think I could do the job myself at first, but taking things carefully one at a time without rushing did finally result in a level, framed form ready for pouring. I do recommend buy ing th e special frami ng nails for your lumber forms, alo ng with the fram ing stakes from the local hardware store. The tower will be level if you prepare the base legs with the first tower section attached, and temporarily guy this section. Guying an 8' tower may sound silly, but the last thing you want is tor those seven yards of wet, heavy new concrete to move the legs or tower out of alignment when the co ncrete is being poured into the hole. Photo D shows the formed base ready to pour the concrete. Note that you will have to shore up the first tower section with some lumber to keep the base legs at the proper height. I recommend using a 1" x 2' piece atop each form top and below the shoring lumber to allow access to the freshly poured concrete when you want to finish the top concrete surface. Proper grounding of the towe r is done by running #4 gauge solid copper wire from each leg to three ground rods 8' long and 5/8" thick about a foot out from the concrete, then connecting each ground rod to each other and to the shack ground. The tower legs needed larger ground ctamps than the local hardware store could supply, but I found that the Polyphasor Model J-2 clamps could fit easily. Be sure to make no sharp bends in any ground wire; lightning follows a straight line and does not like curves. I definitely do not advise skimping on materials here; your grounding system is vital to the health of the tower, antennas, radios, and your house. Table One Photo B. Hinged base. Final Construction Now that you've paid lor the tower, dug the hole, paid for the concrete, installed the ground system and rested-you can build the tower. I did it section by section instead of hinging the tower up from the ground. My biggest shock came when I went to use my trusty Rohn gin pole. Guess what? The Heights tower tubular legs are a lot bigger than either Rohn 25 or 45 tower legs, and my gin pole clamp would not fit. Here's where the low weig ht came in very handy. My-1 3-year-old son (N8QER) and I simply pulled each section up by hand with a rope, then planted the new section on the one below. Even the biggest 30" sections weighed only 45 pounds, compared to a higher steel tower section. Also, the 8' section length was much easier to handle than a 10' section would have been. Of course, the use of a quality safety bert by each tower worker is absolutely necessary. By the way, don't underestimate the amount 01 Continued on page 61 Face Width 35' 30' 26' ee- te- 14' 11 ' Section Weight: 631bs. 45 1bs. 36lbs. 301 00. 21 Ibs. 14 1bs. 11 Ibs. Leg Diameter: 1.708' 1.625 1.5625 1.500 1.3125 1.0625 1.062 5 Leg Ihickness: 0.204' 0.162 0.1 3t 0.100 0.114 0.0962 0,0962 z-erece thickness: ~S ' ~S ' 9/16' 112' 7/16' 31S' 31S' solid solid solid solid solid solid solid Photo C. Top plate. 44 73 Amateur Radio Today- June, 1992 Photo D. Formed base.
Packet + AMTOR = PACTORll PACfOR is a new ARO rll
- Page 1 and 2: JUNE 1992 ISSUE #381 USA $2.95 CAN
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