CONSERVATION

WHITE SONORA WHEAT:
Adding Heritage Grains into the Local Foods Mix
Natalie Rachel Morris with Emma Zimmerman,
Marco Bianco and Chris Schmidt
WHEAT seems to be everywhere, but very little
heritage wheat or other locally-produced grains have
made it into relocalized food systems. Compared to
the astounding successes in the recovery of heirloom
vegetables and fruits as well as heritage livestock
and poultry, the production and acceptance of
heritage grains have lagged far behind. At the same
time, the number of consumers concerned and
perhaps sickened by cereals high in gluten but low
in nutritional value seems to be growing.
White Sonora wheat, one of the oldest soft
white bread wheat varieties introduced to the
Americas, stands on its own for its unique flavor,
texture, unusual culinary applications and arid land
adaptations. Since its introduction to what is now
known as the U.S./Mexico border states in 1640
it has been dry-farmed or grown with rainwater
harvesting techniques that use at least a quarter less
water per season than required for most modern
hybrid wheats.
After centuries of being the primary bread wheat
grown in northern Mexico and the American West,
its production began to decline around World War
II. Fortunately, those who care about culinary quality
and aesthetics have been vindicated, for White
Sonora has been recently revived and is getting rave
reviews from pastry chefs, artisanal millers, bakers
and micro-brewers. As such, this ancient wheat
has suddenly become a game-changer, teacher and
agent for stimulating innovation across the entire
food supply chain, particularly in northern California
and southern Arizona.
Jeff and Emma Zimmerman are the father/
daughter team that own and manage the recently
reestablished Hayden Flour Mills in Phoenix,
Arizona. They have been pivotal in creating a
collaborative network of producers, researchers,
millers, marketers, bakers, chefs and consumers
enthusiastic about not only the White Sonora wheat,
but also heritage grains in general.
As Emma reminds us, “Heritage grains from
the pre-industrial era have qualities that artisanal
millers seek. And because White Sonora wheat is so
arid-adapted, it makes sense to grow it in Arizona.
The taste is special too. Chefs often comment on its
sweetness and creamy color.”
Two of the community enthusiasts wrote a
collaborative grant for the SDA’s Western SARE
program in 2011 that helped the Zimmermans
coordinate the development of the heritage grain
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