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CONSERVATION

Conservation You Can Taste - The Southwest Center - University of ...

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HARRISON CIDER APPLES:<br />

From the Brink of Extinction to Cidermakers’ Revelation<br />

Gary Paul Nabhan with Ben Watson, Tom Burford,<br />

Charlotte and Chuck Shelton and Diane Flynt<br />

IT HAD BEEN thought to have gone extinct,<br />

which unsettled heirloom apple experts for years,<br />

given the accolades it received in its mid-Atlantic<br />

homeland during the nineteenth century: “New<br />

Jersey is the most celebrated cider-making district<br />

in America, and this apple...has long enjoyed the<br />

highest reputation as a cider fruit, “wrote Downing<br />

in 1846 . “Ten bushels make a barrel of cider. The<br />

tree grows thriftily and bears very large crops.” For<br />

making a single variety hard cider, the Harrison<br />

commanded the highest price of any apple coming<br />

into the New York market, but when its juices were<br />

blended with juices from the Graniwinkle, the<br />

Harrison produced the most popular fine cider made<br />

in the entire country.<br />

Then it disappeared... but believing in miracles<br />

and loving historic sleuthing, the Dean of American<br />

apples, Tom Burford, kept his ears open. In 1976,<br />

44

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