CONSERVATION

assuring economic needs of growers, millers and
chefs are met are among the current challenges of
Anson Mills and the Foundation. As a crop suited to
cultivation on floodplains near the coast, it remains
vulnerable to massive flooding and susceptible to
the the catastrophic events that are becoming more
frequent with accelerated climate change. As such,
“the storage of three years worth of uncontaminated
seed is critical to preventing a complete collapse of
the commercial crop” Roberts cautions those who
may think there will inevitably be instant access
to foundation seed. Additionally, Roberts says that
“adoption of sustainable practices such as SRI – a
rigorous System of Rice Intensification – with mixed
cropping, polycultures, and whole farm husbandry
will be integral to the success and increased
production of the rice”.
Today, just a handful of farms outside the Anson
Mills co-op produce the rice, and they are scattered
between the Carolinas and Texas. One notable new
development is the activity of Campbell Coxe of
Carolina Plantation Rice, who is currently working
to ramp up his production to 50 acres of rice in
South Carolina. Meanwhile, at Anson Mills, Roberts
continues his focus on pre-industrialization practices
that produce a grain that is a bit more expensive
(than machine harvested rice), contains exceptional
nutritional value, and stunning aromas and flavors;
the only drawback is that Anson Mills’ handharvested
rice is very perishable. Because of this,
Roberts is very particular about how his products
are shipped and how they are handled once they
are received by Anson Mills’ 4000 chef clients
worldwide. Anson Mills also offers tours regularly
and Roberts encourages the chefs to hand harvest
the Carolina gold rice - to cut, thresh, winnow and
pound all by hand - “so that they can appreciate
what we do...when chefs come here and work with
us, they immediately understand why the prices are
what they are”.
Glenn Roberts well understands that his
vertically-integrated approach to on-farm research,
historic research, seed increase, new farmer
mentoring, seed cleaning, packaging and delivery
goes far beyond what many other heritage food
promoters are currently capable of undertaking:
“What I do is truly unique. By the time
I have a mature product available to sell,
we’ve invested over $3 per pound into it, not
including the production of the seed, which
I’ve provided the farm free of charge...But (I do
it this way because) I’m not just making rice
available to the public, I’m building (long-term)
seed biosecurity.”
Repatriation of Carolina gold to the Low
Country has taken place slowly, yet it is gaining
momentum. And now, what is re-emerging is that
this Antebellum heirloom grain is found once again
in its proper place in many dishes originating from
the Carolina Rice Kitchen table. Thankfully, Carolina
gold rice is also turning up in restaurant dishes all
across the country, not just on its cradle of origin.
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