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THE
PEACTICAL
GUIDE
TO THE
CITY OF YORK
AND ITS
CATHEDEAL.
ILLUSTKATED.
YOEK:
PRINTED BT BEN JOHNSON AND COMPANY,
100, MICKLEGATE, 101.

BEN JOHNSON AND COMPANY,
publishebs
Ampersand Works, 100, Mioklegate
YOBK,

PEEFAOE-
In the compilation of this book, the author has
endeavoured, as far as possible, to furnish accurate
information to the visitor of such places of interest
as are herein described, and as they at present exist.
The historical portion is derived from a perusal of
the most reliable
sources, and is offered as the result
of much careful labour and diligent research.
From the limited scope of this work, it
was necessary
to be concise on many points where amplification
would have been much more pleasant ; still, it is
to be hoped it will supply a want long felt, viz., a
trustworthy modern guide and handbook to
the City
of York.
B. J.

CONTENTS.
PAGE
History of the City of York 1
History of the Cathedral 13
York Minster—Description (Exterior) 18
„ „ (Interior) 22
Plan of the Cathedral 38
Celebrated Archbishops 40
Minster Yard, Deanery, &c 41
The Walls and Bars 44
The Museum, Gardens, St. Mary's Abbey, &c. ... 48
The Mansion House 54
TheGuHdhall 55
Arms and Government of the City... 68
The Castle 68
Churches 72
Chapels ,80
Almshouses and Hospitals 83
Medical

ILLUSTEATIONS.
Key-Map of the City.
York Minster— North West View.
Do.
Do.
Do .
Interior View.
Plan of.
York Castle.
Chapter-House.
Micklegate Bar.
Walmgate Bar.
BooTHAM Bar.
MoNKGATE Bar.
Lodge and Entrance Gates to Museum Grounds,
St.
Mary's Abbey.
Lendal Bridge.
Fine Art Institution.
City Arms,
Cap of Maintenance, and Sword and Mace.
Arms of the See, with Archbishop's Mitre.

...
INDEX.
PAGE
Acomb 114
Agar's Hospital 83
Aldborough 118
All Saints', North Street ... 72
All Saints', Pavement 72
Almshouses and Hospitals 83
Ampleforth 118
Archbishop de la Zouch's Chapel ... 36
Archbishop Holgate's School ... 88
Archbishops, Celebrated ... 40
Arms of the City, The 68
Artillery Volunteers 96
Assembly Eooms, The 99
Banks 106
Baptist Chapel 80
Barracks 94
Barnard Castle 118
Barstow's Hospital ... 83
Baths 105
Bedem, The ... 43
BeU Tower, The South-West or ... 36
Bell Window 37
BeUs, The Peal of, Minster... 16, 36
Bishopthorpe 114
Blue Bridge ..103
Blue Coat Boys' School 89
Bolton Abbey 118
Bonding Warehouses, The ... 104
Bootham 108
Bootham Bar 47
Bootham Stray 106
Boroughbridge 118
Bramham 118
Branch War Office 95
Bridges, Markets, and Fairs ... 102
Burial Grounds . ... 107
Burton Picture Gallery, The ... 117
Butchers' Market 104
Byland Abbey 118
Canons' Residence, The 42
Cap of Maintenance, The ..v 54
Castle Howard 118
Castle Mills Bridge 104
Castle, The ... 68
Catholic Apostolic Church ... 80
Cattle Fair, The 105
Cattle Market, The 104
Cavalry Barracks, The 94
Cemetery, The 107
Centenary Chapel 82
Central Tower 23
Chapter House, The ... 20, 33
Choir, The 20, 27
Cholera Burial Ground 107
Christ Church 73
Chronology of York Minster ... 17
PAGE
Church of England Library, &c. ... 94
Churches ... 72
City Club ... 110
Clifford's Tower 69, 71
CUfton ... 115
Clubs 110
Colton's Hospital 83
Coney Street 108
Conservative Club ... 110
Convent of the Sisters of Charity 81
Com Exchange 96
Com Market 104
County Assize Courts 70
County Hospital 85
Cowthorpe ... 118
Coxwold 118
Crypt, The 33
,
Davygate 108
Deanery, The ... 42
De Grey Eooms 96
Description of the Minster—Exterior 18
„ „ „ Interior 22
Dimensions luteraaUy 89
Dispensary 85
Doncaster 119
DriU HaU, The 95
Dringhouses ... 115
Easby Abbey 119
East Window, The Great ... 31
Ebenezer Chapel 80
Ecclesiastical Estabhshment ... 39
English Presbyterian Chapel ... 83
Escrick .. 115
Esplanade, The ... ... 113
- 108
Fairs ... 105
Festival Concert Eoom, The .. 99
Finkle Street
*'
Five Sisters " Window, The ... 24
Foss Bridge 104
Fountains Abbey 119
Friendly Societies' Hall 96
Friends' Boys' School 93
Friends' Burial Ground... 107
Friends' Girls' School ... 93-
Friends' or Quakers' Meeting House 80
Fulford 115
General Produce Market 104
GiUygate 108
Girls' High School 98
Goodramgate 109
Government of the City 68
Government School of Design ... 92.
Grey Coat Girls' School 90
GuHdhall, The 55

Index,
yii
PAGE
Harrison's Hospital ... 83
Harrogate... ... 119
Haughton's Charity School 92
Hay Weighs ... 105
Helmsley 119
Heslington ... ... 116
Heslington Eoad Chapel 80
Hewley's Hospital 83
Heworth 116
History of the Cathedral 13
History of the City 1
Hob Moor ... 106
Holy Trinity, Goodramgate ... 73
Holy Trinity, Micklegate ... 73
Homoeopathic Dispensary ... ... 85
Horn of Ulphus, The 34
Horse Fair 105
Hospitals 83
Hospitium, The ... 53
Hotels, The .. 110
miey ... 119
Independent Chapels 80
Indulgence Cup .. 35
Industrial School for Boys .,. 92
Industrial School for Girls 92
Infantry Barracks 94
Ingram's Hospital ... 83
. ..
Institute for Trained Nurses ... 85
•
Institute Library 94
Institute of Popular Science, &c. 93
Institution for Diseases of the Bye 85
Interest, Places of 113
Invalid Eitchen ,.. 85
Jewbury » 109
Jubbergate ... 109
Judges' Lodgings 97
Kirkdale Cave 119
Kirkham Abbey 119
Knaresbrough 119
Knavesmire ... ... . 106, 109
Lady Chapel, The .. 30
Lantern Tower, The 21
Layerthorpe Bridge 104
Layerthorpe Chapel ... 80
Lendal ... 109
Lendal Bridge ... 102
Lendal Chapel 80
Libraries ,. 93
Liberal Club 110
Literary 88
Low Moor ... 107
Maison Dieu 84
Mansion House, The 54
Manufactures and Commerce ... 110
Markets 104
Marston 116
Marygate Tower 53
Masonic HaU, The .,
97
Mason's Hospital... 84
Medical ... 85
Melbourne Terrace Chapel ... 82
PAGE
Merchant Tailors' HaU 98
Merchant Tailors' Hospital ... 84
Merchants' Hall 98
Micklegate 109
Micklegate Bar 45
Micklegate Stray 106
Middleton's Hospital 83
Military 94
Military Hospital 95
Mihtia Depot 95
Minster Bells . ... 16, 36
Minster Library, The 42, 93
Minster Yard, The ... 41
Miscellaneous 105
Monk Bar ... 47
Monk Bridge 104
Monk Stray 107
Multangular Tower 48
Museum, The, and Gardens ... 48
National Provincial Bank 106
Nave of Cathedral ... ... 20,25
Newburgh Park 119
Newspapers
Ill
New Street Chapel 82
New Walk, The 113
North Transept 23
Nunnery Lane Mission House... 80
Observatory, The 53
Ogleforth 109
Organ, The Choir 27
Organ, The Nave 26
Organ Screen, The ... 26
Osbaldwick 117
Ouse Bridge 102
Pauper Lunatic Asylum, The ... 87
Peal of BeUs, The 36
Penitentiary, or Refuge ... ... 85
Penny Bank 106
Pig Market 105
Pilgrim Street Chapel 82
Plan of the Cathedral 38
Pleasure Boats 110
Pleasure Fairs ... 105
Plumpton ... 119
Police Station 68
Pontefract 119
Poor Clare Abbey 81
Poor Law Offices 99
Population ... ... 107
Postal Telegraph Office 99
Post Office 98
Potato Market ... 105
Primitive Methodist Chapels ... 80
Primitive Methodist College ... 93
Probate Registry 42
Promenades 113
Public Buildings 96
Pubho Baths 105
Railway Library and News Room ... 94
Railway Station, The 107
Red Tower 44
Reference to Plan 89
Refuge, or Penitentiary, The ... 85

viii
Index.
PAGE
Kegistry of tne Diocese
... 87
itetreai, xne ... ,,, ... 86
Iliclimond ... ... ... 119
Eievaulx Abbey
. 119
Eifle Volunteers 95
Hipon ... ... .•• ... 119
Koman Catholic Ohapels^ &c. ... 80
xtoyai bcnooi oi ot. ireter, Tne 88
baleni Cnapel ••• 80
Savings Bank .,, ,., 99, 106
Scarborougli ... ,.. ... 120
Scarborough Railway Bridge ... 102
Scarcroft , 106
School of Design ... ..« 92
Scholastic and Literal^ ... 88
Selby ... ... 120
.
Services J
The IMinster ... ••. 37
Skeldergate ...
109
Skeldergate Bridge •*• ... ... lUo
ojiejiuun ... ..• ,,. 11/
O^U-LXXclgctiuc ftvkn inn c^fctik \ o ... ... («• ... luy
Staitns, ine ... ..• 109
Statute Hirings ... 105
Stonegate 109
Strays ... 106
Steamers 111
Streets—Names and Architecture 108
St. Andrew's Church 79
St. Anthony's HaU
... 89
St. Catherine's Hospital
84
St. Clement ... .. 73
St. Crux 74
St. Cuthbert ... 74
St Dennis 74
St. George's Chapel ... 81
St. Helen 75
St. John .. 75
St. Lawrence ... 75
St. Leonard's Hospital 48
... ...
St. Margaret ... ... 75
St. Martin, Coney Street ... ... 76
St. Martin-cum-Gregory 76
St. Mary's Abbey .. 51
St. Mary, Bishophill Junior ... 77
St. Mary, Bishophill Senior ... 77
St. Mary, Castlegate
76
St. Mary's Abbey
.. 51
St. Mary's Convent 81
St. Maurice .. 78
St. Michael-le-Belfrey 78
St. Michael's Hospital .. 84
St. Michael, Spurriergate 78
St. Olave .. 78
St. Paul 79
St. Peter's School ... 88
St. Sampson 79
St. Saviour .. 79
St. Thomas 79
St. Thomas's Hospital .. 84
St. Wilfrid's (pro-Cathedral) ... 80
St. William's College .. 43
Swedenborgian 82
Swimming Baths .. 105
Tadcaster ... ... •.• 120
PAGE
rr,
Temperance Club
no
Theatre Royal ., *
lOQ
Third West York ArtilleryVolunteers 96
Thompson's Hospital ... ... 84
Towers, The ... 35
Treasury, The 36
Trinity Hospital • ... 84
Ulphus, The Horn of ...
.
34
Unitarian Chapel
'
. ...
82
United, or Plymouth Brethren ... 82
Vestry, The (Minster) 34
Vicinity and Places of Interest 113, 117
Victoria Bar Chapel ... 80
Victoria HaU
lOQ
Villages ..
114
Walls and Bars, The 44
Wahngate 109
Walmgate Bar 46
Wahngate Stray 107
War Office 95
Watter's Hospital 84
Wandesford's, Hospital ,.: ... 84
Wesley Chapel 82
Wesleyan Methodist Chapels ... 82
Wesleyan Methodist Free Church 83
Wesleyan New Connexion Chapel ... 83
Western Front, The (Minster)... 19
Whip-ma-whop-ma-gate 109
Whitby 120
Will Office 21
Wilson's Charity School ... 92
Wilson's Hospital 85
WUton Street School Chapel ... 82
Window, The Great East 31
Winterscale's Hospital 85
Wool Market 105
Yearsley Bridge Baths ... 108
York and East Riding Bank ... 106
York City and County Bank ... 106
York Club .. ... 110
York Diocesan Training Institution 88
York Gas Light Company .... ... 100
"York Herald," The
Ill
York Law Library 94
York Lunatic Asylum, The ... 86
York Minster ... 18
York New Vv'aterworks Company 100
York Poor Law Union Workhouse... 100
York Probate Registry ... 42
York Races 106
York Rifle Volunteers ... ... 95
York Subscription Library 93
York Union Bank 106
Yorkshire Bank 106
*'
Yorksliire Chronicle," The ... 113
Yorkshire Club 110
" Yorkshire Gazette," The ... 112
Yorkshire Hussars,Yeomanry Cavalry 96
Yorkshire Fine Art Institution ... 101
Yorkshire Insurance Company.... 100
Yorkshire School for the Bhnd, The 90
Yorkshire Philosophical Society ... 49
Young Men's Christian Association 94
Zouch Chapel 36

;
YOEK:
HISTOEY OF THE CITY.
The City of York is one of the most ancient, if not the
oldest city in Britain, and according to historians, was a
flourishing place 2000 years ago. It stands in the centre of
a rich agricultural district called the vale of York, through
which the river Ouse, strengthened by numerous tributaries,
winds it^ way towards the Humber, flowing through the
middle of the city, and running nearly due south. It is the
capital of the largest county in England ; the most celebrated
city of the North ; and situated nearly midway (both on the
ancient Eoman road and the modern iron-way) between the
English and the Scotch capitals, being 198 miles from one
and 201 from the other. Its early history is lost in obscurity
before the Christian era, it seems to have been a stronghold
of the aborigines of the district. It is the see of an
Archbishop, whose palace is in the immediate vicinity, and
boasts the possession of the finest complete Gothic Cathedral
in the world.
Learned men differ as to the derivation of the name
York ; but the one generally agreed upon is, that by the
Brigantes or ancient Britons, the place was known as Ka'er
Ebraue, Caer-Efroc, Ever-Wic, Yure-Wic ; the Danes called
it Jorvick, from which it would easily become the modern
York ; after which also this great county takes its name. By
the Romans it was called Eboracum, and in Doomsday Book
it is written Euerwic.
The site seems to have been selected by Agricola, between
seventy and eighty years after Christ, and by him made a
military station of immense value and strength, as well as the
capital of the North. Here was established the head- quarters
of the sixth or conquering legion ; and hence it became the
fixed residence of a wealthy colony of Roman citizens, who
B

2
(it is thought from the remains of
buildings, palaces, baths,
tesselated pavements, ornaments, &c., that have been, and are
continually being found, whenever excavations are made),
lived in all the luxury and grandeur that marked the zenith
of the Roman empire no less than its decline and fall. The
legion occupied its northern quarters for about three hundred
years.
Septimus Severus, the Eoman emperor, visited this, the
most northern capital of his dominions, and died here about
207. Constantius Chlorus also ruled and resided in York,
where he died about 306, and was succeeded by his more
celebrated son, Constantine the Great, to 'whom has been
awarded the honour of introducing Christianity into this country
(or, perhaps, more probably permitting it to be introduced),
which is said to have been first preached at York, on the
very ground where the present cathedral stands.
York is rich in historical associations from the Roman
some of
period to the present day, and has been the scene of
the most important events which have occurred in the history
of Britain. After its evacuation by the Romans, it was soon
over-run by the Picts and Scots, then by the Saxons, and
ultimately by the Northmen (or Danes). At this time the
city suffered from repeated sieges ;
buildings were neglected
and allowed to fall to pieces ; and everything was thrown
back into a state of barbarism.
Ambrosius, ihe king of Britain, about 470, held a council
of princes and nobles here, and ordered all the destroyed
churches to be rebuilt. Here King Arthur (the Renowned)
kept, it is said, the first Christmas (or mass of Christ)
that was ever kept in Britain (521), and rebuilt all the fallen
churches. After that, troublous times set in ; and it is on
record that the then bishop Thudiocus fled to Wales in 587
from the persecution of the Saxons.
At the establishment of the Heptarchy, York was the
capital of Northumbria, the largest of the seven kingdoms,
and remained so after the division of that kingdom into two
provinces. The southern and more important of these provinces
was Deira. From this district, a number of youths
being taken captive, and exposed for sale in the slave-market
at Rome, attracted the attention of Pope Gregory the Great,
and caused him to send the priest Augustine to reconvert the

city
3
beniglited people to the Christian faith. In 621, Edwin
ascended the throne at York as King of Northumbria, and in
627, on Easter-day, was publicly baptised by Paulinus, a
Eoman missionary, who very soon after became the first
Archbishop of York.
The celebrated library connected with the Minster was
founded by Archbishop Egbert (731 to 767), and became,
under the famous and learned Alcuin (in the time of Archbishop
Albert, 7 67-782), one of the most valuable in the world.
About the year 810, Egbert, king of Wessex, after being
engaged in a variety of struggles, and having surmounted
many difficulties, succeeded in obtaining the supreme dominion,
and uniting the seven kingdoms of the Heptarchy into one
monarchy. The Northumbrians, however, being more remote
from the influence of his successors, soon asserted their independence,
and raised Osbert to the throne at York. The
northern kingdom now suffered for many years from internal
divisions and ravages of the Danes, who, in 867, defeated
and killed Osbert in a battle near York, and committed
frightful atrocities in the city. The Danes thus wrested Northumbria
from the Saxons, after they had possessed it for about
three hundred years ;
but, in 910, Edward the Elder obtained
a complete victory over them, killing two of their kings and
several thousand soldiers.
After many turbulent years of bloody revolutions, Northumbria
was, in 951, reduced by Edred to an earldom,
York still continuing its capital .
;
Osulf, an Angk>-
Saxon, was the first earl. He was joined by Oslac in the
following reign in the government ; but their authoritywas
subsequently united in the person of Waltheof, th.3
second earl. The principal earls of Northumbria were:
Siward, a man of extraordinary strength and valour ;
Tostig, brother of King Harold ;
and Morcar, who was
reigning earl at the Conquest. Siward died here in 1055,
and was buried near the Minster, or, as some historians say,
at Galmanho, now St. Olaves, in Marygate. It is related of
him that, being brought to the last extremity by disease, he
exclaimed : Oh, what a shame is it for me who have
escaped death in so many battles, to die like a beast at last
Put me on my coat of mail, gird on my sword, place on my
helmet, give me my shield and axe ;
thus, as a valiant soldier

4
have I lived, even so will I die ! " His friends obeyed the
injunction, and the gallant spirit of the old man passed
away.
After the death of Edward the Confessor (1066), the
crown was seized by Harold
;
but, Hardrada Harfager, King
of Norway, with Tostig,. Earl of Northumberland, soon
appeared on the scene to dispute his claim. The invaders
sailed up the Humber with a large fleet, landed at Riccal,
and marched upon York, which they took by storm after the
battle of Fulford ;
but, a few days after, were themselves
defeated and slain at the memorable battle of Stamford
Bridge. Harold, whilst celebrating his success at York,
heard of the landing of William of Normandy at Hastings, and
was himself killed a few days after his northern victory, at the
battle of Battle in Sussex ; and with him fell the power of the
Anglo-Saxons. In 1068, William the Conqueror marched
upon York, and, taking the city without any difficulty, he
strengthened his power here by building the castle-keep,,
known as Clifford's Tower, and also by the erection of a
second fortress on Baile Hill, on the south side of the river.
At this time, a desperate attempt was made by the inhabitants
of Northumbria to dispute the Conqueror's power ;
the city
was set on fire, when the Cathedral with its famous library
was completely destroyed.
At the time of the Doomsday survey (1084-1086, twenty
years after the Norman conquest), York contained about
ten thousand inhabitants, at that time considered a large
and populous city. During the reign of King Stephen, in
1137, the Cathedral was again burnt to the ground, together
with St. Mary's Abbey, the Hospital of St. Leonard, thirtynine
parish churches, and the greater part of the city.
In the following year (1138), David of Scotland devastated
the country as far as York, but was himself defeated at
the celebrated Battle of the Standard, near Northallerton,
leaving ten thousand dead on the field. In the reign
of Henry II., the first English parliament was held at York
(about 1156), Henry at the same time receiving the homage
of Malcolm of Scotland; and also in 1174 the parliament
met again in this city.
The dreadful massacre of the Jews took place here soon after
the accession to the throne of Richard I., when nearly one
thousand men, women, and children lost their lives by fire and

-
sought
5
sword, throngli the blind rage of an infuriate mob, led on by
a fanatical hermit, who called upon his listeners to exterminate
the enemies of Christ. The Jews mostly lived in
Jubbergate and Jewbury ; were large traders, and possessed of
great wealth. One of the wealthiest and most influential members
of this persecuted race, named Benet, had been recently
killed in London. A body of armed men made an assault
upon his house in York, which they plundered, murdering
his wife and children. On the following day most of the
Jewish inhabitants, with their families, their gold, precious
stones, costly garments, and all their moveable valuables,
refuge in the Castle, which was, by order of the
warden and sheriffs, besieged by the excited populace. The
siege was continued for several days ;
but, on the day fixed
for the final assault, the Jews, rather than be taken, and
fearing a worse death, set fire to the Castle, first destroying
all the wealth they could, then, with the exception of a few,
killing each other. Those remaining offered to surrender
and become Christians ; but were barbarously murdered by
the victorious citizens on entering the Castle the following
morning, who then went to the Minster, obtained the registers
of money lent by the Jews to the leading men of the city and
neighbourhood, and having made a bonfire in the nave,
burnt the whole of the documents.
King John, and also Henry III., frequently visited York
;
during their reigns, several parliaments assembled here.
The latter-named monarch celebrated Christmas here with
great splendour in 1251, when Margaret, his daughter, was
married in the Cathedral to Alexander III., King of Scotland,
neither bride nor bridegroom being quite eleven years old.
Under Edward I. parliament was held twice in York ; and
the courts of justice, Doomsday Book, and other valuable
documents were removed to this city from London. In 1311,
Edward II. kept Christmas here, and caused the city walls to
be fortified. Edward III. often visited this ancient city. -In
1327, he spent Christmas here ; and in the following January
was married in the Cathedral to Philippa, aged fourteen,
daughter of William of Hainault, Edward having attained the
more mature age of sixteen years. The ceremony was celebrated
with much pomp and splendour. The bride was
accompanied by a large body of armed retainers from Hainault,
and the King by his Council and the flower of the English

nobility, then in arms. A terrible quarrel between the
foreigners assembled in York and the English broke out.
They fought without Walmgate Bar, when 527 foreigners
and 242 Enghsh lost their lives, after which peace was
restored. Edward, being of a warlike disposition, had the
city walls and towers thoroughly repaired, strengthened,
and put in a complete state of defence. Twenty years later,
Queen Philippa again entered the city, after the battle of
Neville's Cross, with David Bruce, of Scotland, her prisoner.
In 1389, the youthful Eang Richard II. visited York, to
settle a dispute between the Archbishop and clergy on the
one hand, and the mayor and citizens on the other. It was
on this occasion that Richard took his sword from his side
and presented it to William de Selby, then mayor, to be borne
before him and his successors for ever, with the point
erect, except in the presence of the crown, conferring, at the
same time, the title of " Lord Mayor," which his successors
have ever since retained
"
. My Lord is a Lord for a year and a day
But my Lady's a Lady for ever and aye."
A few years afterwards, Richard presented a mace to the
liOrd Mayor,
and a cap of maintenance to the sword-bearer.
All these venerable insignia of office may be seen in the
Mansion-house, the official residence of the chief magistrate,
and are always used by him to the present day on public or
state occasions. In 1392, the courts of chancery and king's
bench were held in York, but only remained here about
six months.
Few English cities passed through more numerous and
violent changes than did the City of York during the wars of
the Roses. Through the influence of the noble houses of
Neville, Percy, and Scrope, the citizens became involved in
quarrels, opposed to the reigning monarch Henry IV., by whom
a royal mandate was issued, forfeiting the municipal rights
and liberties of the citizens, and by the same act the justly
celebrated Scrope, Archbishop of York, lost his life. He
was beheaded in a field near to Bishopthorpe, and his head,
together with that of Thomas Mowbray, Earl Marshal of
England, who suffered with him, was placed on a spear above
the walls of the city. In a very short time the rights of the
citizens were restored to them. The head of Richard Plan-

7
tagenet, Duke of York, who was slain at the battle of Wakefield
in 1460, was brought to York, covered with a paper crown,
and stuck on a pole over Micklegate Bar with the face towards
the city, that " York might overlook the town of
York, " in company with that of the Earl of Salisbury, and
many others of the Yorkist party. Whilst the dreadful battle
of Towton Field was being fought, on the 29th March, 1461,
Henry VI. and his Queen were staying in the northern capital,
who, on hearing the disastrous news, instantly fled to Scotland.
Eichard's son and heir, Edward Duke of York^ immediately
marched upon the city; took down the Yorkist heads and
replaced them with those of the Lancastrian Earls of Devon
and Wiltshire. In 1464, Edward lY. was crowned with
regal magnificence on the 4th May, in the Cathedral. In
1483, Eichard III., of opprobious memory, marched to York
with a numerous retinue on hearing of the death of the King,
in order to establish his power more firmly in the north, and
had a solemn requiem sung in the Minster for the soul of
his dead brother. Under the Tudors, the city passed through
many vicissitudes of fortune, especially during the attempted
rebellion of Lambert Simnel and his co-conspirators. In
1503, Margaret, daughter of Henry VII., passed through
York in royal state on her northward journey to become the
bride of James IV. of Scotland. About 1505-6, during the
reign of Henry VIL, the first printing-press was erected here
by Hugo Goez. In 1513, the body of James IV. of Scotland
was brought to York after the battle of Flodden Field, where
he and the flower of his nobility fell. In 1536, Henry VIIL
inflicted a most severe blow on the wealth and property of the
religious orders in this country by the suppression of the
abbeys and monasteries, which was the cause of the rising of
the people in rebellion known as the Pilgrimage of Grace,"
led by one Eobert Aske, of Aughton, a few miles from York,
who marched upon York and Hull with forty thousand men,
and took both places. This insurrection was speedily suppressed,
but was shortly succeeded by a second. Henry
visited York in 1541, remaining twelve days ;
he at this
time established the famous council of the north, the first
president of which was Thomas, Duke of Norfolk. The ofiice
of this court was to hear and determine all causes on the north
side of the Trent. It continued in force till the reign of

8
Charles I. The Lord President resided in the Manor House,
now the Wilberforce School for the Blind near to Bootham
Bar ; the council held its sittings at the Guildhall. In 1572,
the Earl of Northumberland was beheaded in the Pavement,
and his head set on a pole on Micklegate Bar for the part he
took in the last rebellious attempt made by the Roman
Catholics to establish their power in England, which is called
the Rising of the North." In 1608, James VI. of Scotland
passed through the city on his way to London to receive the
English crown ; he stayed three or four days, was lodged in
the Manor House and attended the Minster services several
times. In 1617, he again visited York, when he attended
service at the Minster. In 1639, Charles I. stayed in York
some three or four weeks on his way to meet the Covenanters
of Scotland, spending the time in marshalling his army. The
following year a great council of peers met, and held its
meetings in the Deanery, under the presidency of the king.
In 1641, the council of the north was abolished. Charles
again came in 1642, fixing his residence at the Mansion
House, then close to the Minster, and stayed five months in
the city, during which time the state printing-press was
brought from London and erected in St. William's College,
near the Cathedral. In 1644, York was fully garrisoned,
and put in a complete state of defence, guns being placed on
the walls and gates under the command of the Marquis of
Newcastle. Early in this year the Parliamentarian army, under
the command of the Earl of Manchester, assisted by Scotch
allies, lay siege to and completely invested the city, several
batteries being erected so as to command it from different
points, and placed under the orders of Sir Thomas Fairfax,
Earl of Leven, Cromwell, and others. For twenty-two days
the troops and citizens within the walls defended it with great
spirit and valour. Charles, well knowing how important it
was to retain possession of such a stronghold, sent Prince
Rupert with twenty thousand men to its relief. On his
approach, the Parliamentarian army withdrew to Marston
Moor, where it was followed shortly after
by Prince Rupert,
and on July 2nd the deadly battle was fought, which
brought ruin to the royalist cause, this being the last of
many battles fought for the possession of the City of York.
On the 16th July, 1644, it was formally surrendered to the

BOOTHAM BAR, YORK

9
Tictorious army, whose generals immediately repaired to the
Minster and offered up their thanksgivings for so great a
success. The city suffered severely during the siege, many
houses being laid in ruins, but the Cathedral escaped with
very little damage. Markham, in his life of the great general,
says, no Cathedral in England suffered less from the civil
war than York Minster, and the immunity was due to the
unceasing watchfulness of Sir Thomas Fairfax, to whom
Yorkshire owes a debt of gratitude for his thoughtful care
of her proudest monument." In 1650, Cromwell stayed one
night in the city as a guest of the Lord Mayor. In 1660, on
the 1 1th May, Charles II. was proclaimed by the Lord Mayor
as King of England with great ceremony; bells were rung and
cannon fired in royal salutes from Clifford's tower, the city
being brilliantly illuminated at night. In 1665, the Duke of
York, afterwards James II., resided here two months. In 1684,
Charles deprived the Corporation of its Charter, and thereby
engendered a feeling of enmity and discontent. Shortly after
this the black Jefferies attended the assize at York as one of
the judges, and informed the Lord Mayor and citizens that
the king expected to have the government of the city at his
own disposal. The Charter was finally restored in 1688 by
the Prince of Orange. Clifford's tower was reduced to ruins
b)y the explosion of the powder magazine in 1684, and does
not seem to have been repaired since, otherwise than to keep
the walls from falling. In 1688, the city was seized by the
Earl of Danby on behalf of the Protestant succession, and
early in the following year, William Prince of Orange and
Mary his wife were proclaimed King and Queen of England
by the Lord Mayor, in the presence of many thousands of
spectators. During the subsequent winter, a large force of
Danish soldiers in the service of England occupied York
whilst on their way to join Wilham in Ireland.
We now enter upon more peaceful times ; the military history
of York may be said to end with the bloodless revolution
of 1688. In the reign of Charles II., coaches were first run
between York and London in four days, and also to Hull. In
1727, Daniel Defoe visited York, and made it the birthplace
of his most celebrated hero, ^' Eobinson Crusoe." In 1737,
Drake published his "Eboracum," and speaks of York as "one
of the pleasantest cities in England." In 1745, the year of

10
the Young Pretender," the city showed its readiness to defend
the established religion and Hanoverian government. In 1791 ^
the first musical festival was held in the Minster.
Nothing worthy of note occurred in the latter half of the
18th century, beyond exciting political contests for the
representation of the county. In 1820, the present Ouse
Bridge was opened, the foundation stone having been
laid in 1810. In 1822, the Yorkshire Philosophical Society
was founded, of which the Eev. W. V. Harcourt, M.A.,
F.E.S., was the first president, and in 1830, its handsome
museum was opened to the public. In 1823, the second
musical festival was held in the Cathedral, there being 465
performers. The British Association for the Advancement
of Science held its first meeting here in 1831, on
the 27th Sept., when upwards of 350 of the most eminent
men of the day from all parts of the kingdom assembled for
the purpose of forming the above named institution. In
1835, the last musical festival was held, when there were 618
performers ; it was attended by the Duchess of Kent with her
daughter, the Princess Victoria (our present Queen), then on
a visit to the Archbishop at his palace at Bishopthorpe. The
first passenger railway train ran into York on the 29th May,
1839, and in 1841, the old railway station in Tanner Eow
was opened.
In 1846, July 21st, the Archaeological Institute of Great
Britain and Ireland held its annual meeting here, under
the presidency of Earl Fitzwilliam. In 1848, the Eoyal
Agricultural Society's Show, on Bootham Stray, was visited
by Prince Albert and other illustrious personages. In
1850, a grand banquet was given in the Guildhall on
the 26th October, by the Lord Mayor and Corporation,
to Prince Albert, the Lord Mayor of London, and the
Mayors of the different Corporations in England, in aid of
the great Exhibition held in London the following year
(1851), when the most fairy-like building in the world,
the first Crystal Palace, was erected. This banquet was
signalized by the preparation of one dish, which alone
cost one hundred guineas. In 1866, the Prince and Princess
of Wales visited York, to grace with their presence
the Yorkshire Fine Art and Industrial Exhibition. The
royal visitors were the guests of His Grace the Arch-

11
bishop, at tlie Palace, Bishopthorpe. York gave a right royal
greeting to their Eoyal Highnesses; the Ouse Bridge, most
artistically decorated, was, together with the rest of the city^
brilliantly illuminated in the evening. The illustrious visitors
attended the Yorkshire Agricultural Society's Show, then being
held on Knavesmire, and also a grand review of the whole of
the Volunteers of Yorkshire on the Race- ground, when, it is
said, more people came to York thaii was ever known to have
visited it before in one day. The exhibition was held in a
temporary building erected in Bootham Field, in front of the
County Asylum. It was opened by the Archbishop of York,
on the 24th July, and closed on the 2nd November, and
was attended by 380,590 persons. The value of the exhibits
was roughly calculated at £250,000. The total receipts were
£13,800 ;
and, after all expenses were paid, with some gratuities,
a surplus of £2000 was left as the nucleus of a
fund to be afterwards subscribed towards a permanent art
gallery.
On 25th September, 1873, a grand banquet was given in
the Guildhall, by joint subscription of the provincial mayors
and corporations of England, to the Lord Mayor of London,
who attended in state, accompanied by the Sheriffs of London,
en grande tenue, with coaches, trumpeters, and other paraphernalia;
the whole of the provincial mayors and townclerks,
two hundred and sixty in number, being dressed in
their robes and decorated with the gold chains and insignia
of office.
The corner-stone of the new Exhibition building was laid
by the Lord Mayor, on Easter Monday, 22nd April, 1878.
The Exhibition was formally opened by His Grace the
Archbishop of York, on the 7th of May, 1879, and continued
until November 8th. During this period it was visited by
550,000 persons, from whom the sum of £17,336 17s. 3d.
was received, in addition to £1791 12s. Id. from other
sources. It consisted of rare examples of old and modern
masters (including the whole of the celebrated Feversham
gallery), water-colours, statuary, articles of vertu, manufactures,
machinery, &c.
The building has now been establised as the Yorkshire Fine
Art and Industrial Institution, with the object of encouraging
art and industry.

12
It is presumed, the visitor to York will arrive by railway,
and that his thoughts and attention will first be turned
to the Cathedral; if so, he will enter the city by the
new railway arch in the walls near to the old Station Hotel,
and taking the road to the left, cross the river by Lendal
Bridge, a handsome structure of iron, continuing past the
Yorkshire Club-house, a building in the Italian style, on the
right and overlooking the river. Immediately adjoining,
and at the corner of Lendal, are the York Club Chambers
in the Elizabethan or mixed style. On the left, opposite
the Club-house and close to the river, is Lendal Tower,
one of the ancient fortifications of the city ;
from this tower
to that on the south side of the river, in ancient times, an
iron chain used to be hung every night at dusk to prevent
the citizens being surprised. From 1682 to 1850, Lendal
Tower was used by the Water Works Company, whose
offices are now close by. The city walls, it will be noticed,
commence on this side very near the tower, and formerly
joined it. Directly opposite the end of Lendal is the lodge
and entrance gates to the grounds of the Yorkshire Philosophical
Society. The Hospital of St. Leonard's will be seen
through the iron palisades close to the gates. In Museum
Street, on the opposite side of the road, is the entrance
to the Festival Concert Eoom, a very magnificent hall, where,
as its name indicates, concerts are held. A few yards beyond
are the offices of the Poor-Law Guardians, and at the corner
of Blake Street is the Subscription News-room. Crossing the
end of Blake Street, there is an open space, fenced off with
a neat iron railing, within which stands the Masonic Hall.
Immediately opposite, on the left-hand side of Duncombestreet,
is the Roman Catholic pro- Cathedral Church of St.
Wilfrid, with its highly ornate door-way.
The visitor will now have a splendid view of the glorious
Minster. Approaching the south-west front through Duncombe-street,
the imposing grandeur of the western towers,
capped by the colossal size and great height of the central
tower, flanked by the flying buttresses of the nave, strikes the
eye of the beholder with the wonderful unanimity of style, the
vast strength, the grand proportions, and enormous size of
the sacred structure.

HISTORY OF THE CATHEDEAL.
On the site of the present building, Christianity was revived
in this northern Kingdom by Paulinus, who had been sent
by Augustine, Archbishop of Canterbury, and succeeded in
the conversion of Edwin, the King of Northumbria, to the new
faith, who was publicly baptised on Easter Sunday, the 12th
April, 627, in a little wooden oratory erected on this spot.
Shortly after, Edwin commenced to buUd a larger church ot
stone, dedicated to St. Peter, but which he di.d not live to see
completed, being slain in a great battle agamst Pewcto, the
pagan King of Mercia. The country was immediately
overrun will pagans, and the church of Edwm destroyed
Paulinus fled to the Christian kingdom of Kent, taking with
him Ethelburga, widow of the king. The head of Edwin was
afterwards recovered, and buried within the walls of the
church which he founded, his body being deposited m the
monastery at Whitby. About 636, Oswald succeeded in
expelling the Mercians; resuscitated and firmly established
Christianity; restored the Minster; but was himself soon after
killed in another great battle with the invaders under Penda.
This monarch detested the religion of Christ and the temples
erected to His worship, and proceeded to demolish the
Cathedral and churches. He was, however, shortly afterwards
slain in battle (655), and the Minster completely
restored by Oswy, brother of Oswald, who also founded
twelve other churches in different parts of Northumbria.
Shortly after this, Ulphus, a prince of Deira, the southern
part of Northumbria (now the East Eiding of Yorkshire)
gave all his lands, together with his horn, to the Cathedral
Church of York. This horn can be seen in the vestry ot the
Cathedral. In 669, the Minster was in an exceedingly
dilapidated condition; but Archbishop Wilfrid put it into
thorough repair, covered the roof with lead, and put glass m
the windows—the first instance recorded of that material
being used in this country. In 741, the Minster was nearly
burnt to the ground. In 767, Albert, Archbishop of York
(a native of the city), founded it anew, and assisted by the
learned Alcuin rebuilt the Cathedral in the finest style of
Saxon architecture; it was consecrated on the 8th JNov.,

14
In 867, the kingdom of Northumbria was overthrown
the by
Danes who now ruled in East Angha. Guthrum,
one ot the Danish kings, reigned at York from 822 to 896
but having •
been conquered by Alfred the Great, was baptized
at Jork Minster, King Alfred acting as his sponsor and
giving him the name of Athelstane. During one of the sieges
at the time of the Norman conquest, the Cathedral was again
burnt to the ground; it was, however, rebuilt about 1080 on
a larger scale in the Norman style by Archbishop Thomas,
who had been appointed to the see by the Conqueror. In the
reign of Stephen (1137), it was again seriously damaged by
hre, and for forty years little was done towards its restoration
however, about 1171, Archbishop Roger rebuilt the choir in
the Norman style to correspond with the rest of the building
The present erection dates from 1215, when Walter de
Grey ascended the archiepiscopal throne, who, being dissatished
with the Cathedral as it then stood, determined to build
one on a grander and more extensive scale. Accordingly he
commenced with the present south transept, which he lived to
see completed, about 1240. The north transept was built by
John le Eomayne, treasurer to the Cathedra], about 1250,
who also built a beU tower, now replaced by the great lantern
tower. Archbishop le Eomayne, son of the treasurer, pulled
down the old Norman nave, and laid the foundation-stone of
the present one on 6th April, 1291, which, with the magnihcent
west front, was completed by Archbishop Melton—
the stone-work in 1345 and the roof in 1355. The great
west window was fiUed with glass in 1338 at the expense of
Archbishop Melton, who gave one hundred marks for the
purpose. During the building of the nave, the present
chapter-house was erected ; but the name of its founder or
the exact dates are not known. From the florid or decorated
style of its architecture, it is not likely that it would be completed
before the middle of the fourteenth century ; and
from the bear, which was a device of Francis Fitzurse, the
treasurer, being used upon it as an ornament, it may be
mferred that he took a prominent part in its erection. The
Norman choir was next doomed; and in 1361, Archbishop
Thoresby laid the foundation-stone of the present choir,
beginning at the Lady chapel. This was finished prior to this
prelate's death in 1373 ; the remainder of the choir was not

15
completed till 1400. The present main or central lantern-tower
was commenced about 1405, by recasing and enlarging the
height of the bell-tower of John le Romayne. The bells were
taken down, and lay idle thirty years. Being necessary to find
another place for them, it was decided to build two towers at the
west end. The south-west tower in which are the bells was
commenced about 1432, by John de Bermyngham, treasurer.
The north-west tower, in which the great bell "Peter" is
hung, was completed about 1470. In 1472, the edifice as it
now stands being finished was duly reconsecrated on the 8rd
February, by Archbishop Neville. This day was afterwards
observed as the feast of the dedication. The whole time
occupied in the erection of the present building being about
two hundred and forty-four years. From this period to the
Eeformation there does not seem to have been much alteration
;
but, at the change in the form of worship in Henry
VIII.'s time, most of the chantries (forty in number) and
altars, with the shrine of St. William, were removed. Some
of these were again restored in Queen Mary's time. During
the Commonwealth it suffered comparatively little, though it
is said that Cromwell quartered his cavalry in the Minster,
the nave being turned into stables for the horses, at which
time a great deal of the ancient glass was ruthlessly destroyed.
In 1736, the present pavement was laid down under the
direction of the Earl of Burlington.
On September 23rd, 1828, a musical festival was held in
the nave, for the benefit of the Hospital at York and the
Infirmaries at Leeds, Sheffield, and Hull, when ^7200 was
realised. There were two hundred and eighty-five vocal and
one hundred and eighty instrumental performers. In September
of 1825, a second festival was held ; and again, in the
corresponding month of 1828, a third festival, at which two
hundred instrumental and three hundred and sixty-three vocal
performers discoursed sacred music from the oratorios.
On February 2nd, 1829, the choir was set on fire by
Jonathan Martin, who had concealed himself after evening
service on the previous day (Sunday) behind Archbishop
Grenefield's tomb, in the eastern aisle of the north transept.
The choir was completely gutted ; the beautiful carved woodwork,
stalls, pulpit, organ, archbishop's throne, roof, and a
^reat quantity of the stonework being destroyed. The east

16
window was saved with very great difficulty.
Martin escaped
by ropes taken from the belfry, through the far window in
the north transept. He was shortly after taken at Hexham,
tried at York assizes, acquitted on the plea of insanity, and
died in New Bethlehem Hospital, London, in 1838.
The building was restored by national subscription at a
cost of £65,000, under the care of Sir Robert Smirke. The
timber and lead were given by the Government, and the
stone by Sir Edward Vavasour, from quarries on his
estate near Tadcaster. A new organ was presented by the
Earl of Scarborough, and the communion-plate by the Archbishop.
On May 6th, 1832, the Cathedral was opened
for public worship. On the 20th May, 1840, through the
carelessness of a workman, the building again suffered from
fire. The south-west bell-tower, together with the roof of the
nave, were entirely destroyed. A second subscription was
set on foot, and the damage repaired by Mr. Sidney Smirke,
at a cost of £23,000. In 1843, through the liberal bequest
of Dr. Beckwith, a new peal of bells costing £2000 was
placed in the south-west tower. In 1845, a* monster bell,
"Peter"—the largest but one in England—was purchased
by public subscription, and placed in the north-west tower,
which, it is said, is not strong enough to allow the bell to be
rung in the usual way.
In 1860, the organ on the screen was remodelled. In the
following year, the building was warmed by patent stoves,
the choir lighted with gas from the clerestory, and the chapterhouse
restored externally, at the cost of Dean Duncombe.
In 1863, the nave was fitted up with moveable benches,
choir-seats, and organ, and also lighted with gas in a similar
manner to the choir. In 1874, the south transept, the oldest
part of the building, was completely restored internally by
public subscription, costing £10,000.
The fiddler was removed from his turret in 1879, and the
whole of the facade of the south entrance renewed in
accordance with the original design, being completed in 1880.
The best exterior view of the Minster is to be had from the
City Walls, between Victoria Bar and the south-east bastion,
near Clementhorpe : the finest interior view is from the west
entrance, about half-way up the nave.

17
THE
Chronology of the Erection of York Minster,
ACCOEDING TO THE LATE Mr. BrOWNE.
Section of Cathedral. Date. Archbishops. Kings. Architecture.
Church of Stone com. .
Greatly injured by Fire .
A.D.
627
670
741
Paulinus
Wilfrid
Egbert
Edwin
Oswy
Eadbert .
Saxon.
Saxon.
Rebuilt (Nave, Transepts,
&c.) .. )
1080
Thomas
WiUiam I.
Norman.
Injured by Fire .
1137
Thurstan .
Stephen .
Rebuilt or repaired,
Choir and Crypt
j
1170
Eoger
Henry II. .
Late Norman.
The Present Cathedral.
So. Transept erected,about
North Transept erected
Chapter-house . .
Vestibule to Chapter- {
house . . . . (
j
j
1220
1250
1270
1280
1340
1335
1350
Walter de Grey
Walter de Grey
\
Walter Giffard j
William Wykewane
William Melton .
William Melton
Wm. de la Zouch
]
j
Henry III. .
Henry III.
Edward I..
Ed. n.&iii.
Edward HI.
Early English.
Early English.
Decorated.
Decorated.
Decorated.
Nave .. ..
Choir, eastern portion
Choir western portion
Bell-tower, south-west
j
j
j
j
1291
1360
1361
1415
1419
1472
1433
1450
John le Romayne 1
John Thoresby
j
John Thoresby
Henry Bowet
Henry Bowet
George NeviUe
John Kempe
Edward I..
Edward II.
Edward III.
Edward ni.
Henry V. .
Henry V. .
Edward IV.
Henry VL .
j- Decorated.
Early Perpen.
& Perpendicular
Perpendicular
Late Perpendicular.
Bell-tower, north-west
J
1450
1474
John Kempe
)
William Booth
[
George NeviUe
j
Henry VI. .
Edward IV.
Late Perpendicular.
Central-tower . .
Organ-screen . .
J
|
1460
1472
1476
1518
WiUiam Booth )
George Neville )
Lawrence Booth .
Cardinal Wolsey .
Edward IV.
Edward IV.
Henry VIII.
Late Perpendicular.
Late Perpendicular.
c

18
YORK MINSTER.
It seems impossible to be disappointed in York Minster,
however high may have been previous expectations.
When you first gain a view of this mountain of ecclesiastical
architecture, or at entering cast your eye through a vista of
624 feet, or from the tesselated pavement gaze through
column and arch up to the ribbed and fretted dome, 99 feet
above you, or catch the light of a thousand wreathed and
trembling rainbows, through gloriously refulgent windows,
you are lost in wonder and astonishment. Its different
parts, nave, transept, choir, chapter-house, and crypt,
with the rich decorations of screen, statue, tracery, and
monument, where sleep the illustrious dead, require many
surveys, and repay all with the fulness of admiration. The
original erection on this site is of great antiquity ;
and the
present edifice, though more than two hundred and fifty
years in building, displays, amid variety of taste and style,
great unity of design. It has loftily withstood the attacks
of time and the depredations of war. * * The magnificent
swell of the organ, and the majesty and sweetness of
the chants, especially during Sabbath worship, seem unearthly.
Twice on every week-day the service of prayer
and praise ascends from this venerable Cathedral, and it is
a touching thought, that its great heart of stone keeps
alive that incense to Jehovah which too often grows dim
and cold on the altar of the living soul." Mrs. Sigourney.
DESCRIPTION.
EXTERIOR.
York Cathedral is built in the form of a cross. The length
from the extreme of the buttresses east to west is 524 feet
extreme breadth (z.e., length of transepts), north to south,
250 feet. The Minster of York presents many styles of
architecture, the crypt having some remains of Saxon together
with early Norman at the west end. In the eastern
portion of the building there is late Norman, early English in
the north and south transepts, decorated in the nave and
chapter-house, early perpendicular in the lady chapel, perpendicular
in the choir, and late perpendicular in the central
and two western towers. It is built of magnesian limestone from
quarries near Tadcaster; from Huddleston, near Sherburn,
Mil ford Junction ; and from Stapylton, near Pontefract. The
stone when newly quarried is of a very soft nature, and
consequently easily worked. For the late repairs of the south

19
transept and clioir aisles, before being fixed each stone was
steeped in boiled oil, cliemically prepared, by wbich means it
is hoped the work will be preserved for ages : Time alone will
tell. Approaching the Minster by way of Duncombe-street;,
The Western Front first strikes the eye. It is thus described
by Britton : ^'
Two uniform towers, strengthened at
their corners with buttresses which diminish at four divisions
as they ascend, rise from the western ends of the aisles of the
nave. Between these towers, the front of the middle aisle is
carried up to the same height as its side walls, and an open
battlement runs across the whole breadth, round the towers,
and continues along sides of the nave. A number of niches,
adorned with a beautiful variety and richness of sculpture,
cover almost the whole front, and are wrought in each of the
principal buttresses, as well as in the walls between them. The
chief feature of the middle division is a grand window, an
unrivalled specimen of the leafy tracery that marks the style
of the middle of the fourteenth century. From the arch
of this window rises an acute gable, or pediment, the point
.of which, rising above the line of the battlement, is pierced
on open tracery; behind which is seen the proper gable
of the roof, adorned in front with tracery mouldings, similar
to the window, and crowned at the top by battlements of
open work raking on the sides, up to a tabernacle on
the apex or summit. The principal door has a gable over its
arch with strait sides, but not so highly pitched as that over
the window. The doorway is divided by a slender pillar,
composed of three clustered columns, with polished capitals,
into two smaller arches, above which is a circular glazed
compartment with tracery ; the whole is enclosed within
a splendid recessed arch, the headway composed of various
mouldings relieved by hollows. The mouldings round the
doorway are ornamented with sculpture of exquisite delicacy
and beauty, and exhibit the story of our first parents in the
garden of Eden." The figure in the centre niche above the
doorway is that of the Archbishop Melton, in whose time this
front was completed, and the statues on either side represent
a Percy on the north and a Yavasour on the south, each
holding pieces of stone in their hands, with their arms and
shields near, in commemoration of their having contributed
the stone for the building.

20
The Nave is divided on each side nortli and south into
seven bays by buttresses ; on the north very plain and devoid
of ornament ; those on the south are enriched with panels
and recesses containing figures, and rise far above the
aisle roof, having been once joined to it by light arches
or flying buttresses. The buttresses are finished by tall
pinnacles or spires. The north transept contains the light
and chastely shaped window known as the **Five Sisters,'^
above which are five smaller lancet-shaped windows. From
the base springs an arcade of trefoil arches, the whole forming
the most beautiful specimen of early EngHsh architecture
in Great Britain. The aisles are divided into four bays by light
buttresses, each of which contains a lancet-shaped window.
The Chapter House is on the north side ; its plan is octagonal
in design ; at each angle is a massive buttress ; between
the buttresses there is a fine windoAV in the decorated style.
The roof is covered with lead, and is pyramidal in shape.
The Choir on both north and south sides is divided
into two parts, by projections in the form of small transepts
which rise above the aisles, and are pierced by long
narrow windows on all three sides ; east and west of these
projections both on the north and south are four large
windows, above which are four lesser lights in the clerestory,
being divided in each case with buttresses capped with
delicately shaped finials ; the eight lights on the eastern end
of the clerestory are guarded by a screen of stone of a light
and elegant character—a feature unknown in any other
building of a similar description. That wall of glass," the
great east window, consists of nine lights, and occupies the
east end of the choir. It is glazed on the outside with thick
semi opaque glass to protect the coloured work within ; on
each side are buttresses ornamented with panels and figures,
being finished with crocketed octagonal small spires. Beneath
the window is a row of heads, our Saviour in the centre, with,
six of the apostles on each side, and other two figures. At
the apex of the window is a figure supposed to represent Archbishop
Thoresby holding a model of the Minster, he having
built this part of the Cathedral. The south side is similar to
the north, with the exception of some low buildings in the
angle of the choir and south transept, which are used as
yestry and record rooms, formerly part of the chantry chapel

21
founded by Archbishop de la Zouch in the fourteenth
century. These buildings are not in keeping with the
Cathedral to which they are attached. The south transept
is one of the oldest portions of the Minster ;
the south front
is divided by buttresses into three parts, the central compartment
being occupied by a porch, which is approached by a
broad and massive series of steps—the usual entrance to the
Catliedral. On each side of the doorway is a running arcade
of arches having clusters of columns with neatly carved
capitals. In the tier over the entrance are eight lights ; above
these, three lancet-shaped windows occupy the centre, the
gable being filled with a magnificent oriel window 30 feet in
diameter ; the whole is crowned with a crocketed pinnacle,
on the point of which was formerly the figure of a man playing
a violin—hence it was known as the fiddler's turret : " this has
now been removed, and the pinnacle completed more in harmony
with the building. Immediately contiguous to this
transept on the western side, and impinging on the south
aisle of the nave is the
Will Office, a building not at all in harmony with the
sacred edifice, and which it is hoped will soon be taken down.
The great Lantern Tower rises from the centre of the
. . height
Cathedral to the height of 235 feet from the ground; it is the
largest in England, being 65 feet in breadth; it dates from
the fifteenth century. Each side is pierced with two perpendicular
windows, the four corners of the tower being guarded
by eight strong buttresses. From the top, round which runs
a perforated battlement, a glorious view in clear weather may
be obtained of the extensive vale of York. The sacred edifice
is always being repaired, and large sums of money are annually
expended upon materials and for the payment of wages of a
staff of masons, who are constantly employed in the work.
The dimensions externally are as follow :
ft. in
ft. in.
Extreme length, east to
Nave
99 6
west 524 0
width 139 6
Transepts, extreme
Choir
.. height 98 6
length north to south 250 0
width 129 0
Width with aisles. 117 0 Great Tower . . height 235 0
East end, width . . . . 129 0
width 65 0
West end, „ .. .. 140 0 West Towers .. height 201 0
Chapter-house, height 67 10
width 32 0
width 99 0 Hose Window, circum. 80 0

22
YORK MINSTER.
" I stood within a Minster of old time,
Ornate and mighty. Like a mount it reared
Its massy front, with pinnacle and tower,
Augustly beautiful. The morning sun
Through noblest windows of refulgent stain,
MuUioned, and wrought with leafy tracery,
Threw o'er the pavement many a gorgeous group
Of cherubim, and seraphim, and saint,
And long-robed patriarch, kneeling low in prayer,
While as his golden finger changed the ray,
Fresh floods of brilliance poured on all around.
O'er the long vista the delighted eye,
Bewildered, roved—transept, and nave, and choir,
And screen elaborate, and column proud,
And vaulted roof that seemed another sky."
Mrs. Sigourney.
DESCRIPTION.—INTERIOR.
We will now enter the Cathedral by the door in the south'
transept. This consists like all the other main parts of the
building of three divisions—a large central part and two side
aisles, and is in that most chaste of architecture, the Early
English. The southern end of this transept is pierced by
several windows filled with beautifully painted glass ; the
two on the left represent Abraham and Solomon, Moses and
Peter are on the right. These were painted by Peckett,
a self-taught artist resident in the city ; the one of St.
Peter was erected in 1768, by the artist in his lifetime,
the other in 1706, having been bequeathed at his death.
The three windows above are representations of St. William
on the east, St. Paul in the centre-light, and St. Wilfrid
on the west. Above is the magnificent rose-window, filled
with richly stained glass, being an object of remarkable
symmetrical beauty. There are arcades of pointed arches running
over the walls of the south end. The monotony of the
pillars and clerestory is broken by slender shafts of black marble,
which stand in bold relief to the lighter coloured columns and
walls. This transept was completely restored in 1874 by
public subscription, at a cost of £10,000. In the eastern
aisle of this transept, is the richest monumental tomb in the
Cathedral, and said to be. one of the finest known specimens

23
of cianopied work—that of Archbishop Walter de Grey, the
founder of this portion of the Cathedral. A model of this
beautiful work was made a few years ago, and placed in the
South Kensington Museum. It consists of two tiers of trefoil
arches, supported by nine slender columns of black marble,
eight feet high, with moulded bases and capitals covered with
foliage, a similar ornament being on the spandrils ; these
sustain a canopy of eight arches, with crocketed pediments,
capped with most elaborate finials, each having representations
of thrushes in full song, resting upon packs of wool.
Perpetually lying in state, under this enriched canopy, rests
the archbishop, dressed in the full canonicals of cope, tunic,
dalmatic, and alb ;
the middle fingers of the right-hand are
raised as in the act of benediction, the left holds the pastoral
staff, whilst the feet are trampHng on a dragon. The whole
is enclosed in iron railing of similarly rich and elaborate workmanship.
Beyond this, on the north, is a coffin-shaped
tomb, under a canopy of trefoil arches, said to have been
erected to the memory of Archbishop Godfrey de Ludham,
who died in 1265. At the south corner of the western aisle,
is the door-way through which the ascent to the top of the great
central-tower is made. At the other end of this aisle is placed
the font, of dark shell marble, under a heavy suspended cover
of modern woodwork.
The great Central Tower from floor to ceiling, which
is covered with beautiful tracery, is 180 feet high. The
four huge pillars, with their capitals adorned with sculptured
foliage, together with the loftiness (109 feet) of
the gigantic arches, form a very striking effect. In the
spandrils of the arches are coats-of-arms : on the south, those
of the Chapter of York and Walter Skirlaw, Bishop of Durham
;
on the west, of France, with England and Edward the
Confessor ; on the north, of the Saxon kings Edwin and Edward,
the martyr ; on the east, of the See of York and St. Wilfrid.
Over the apex of the arches (inside) runs a projecting string
course, with angle brackets, supporting a rich arcade with
parapet, having a stone gallery, all of which go round the
tower. The tower is lighted on each side with two lofty
perpendicular windows, filled with plain cathedral glass.
North Transept.—This is similar in design to the south
transept, being Early English, but more advanced in style,

24
and was built from 12*50 to 1270. The most notable object
is the beautiful Early English window of five lights in the
north end, called the " five sisters," from an ancient tradition
that five nuns presented the window, each one having also
designed and worked the pattern of one light of the glasswork
in tapestry. The legend is alluded to by Charles Dickens
in chapter vi. of Nicholas Nicklehy, The noble proportions
and plain simplicity of this remarkable window at once
arrest attention, as the visitor advances towards it from the
south transept. Each light is fifty-three feet six inches high,
and five feet one inch wide. Above are five small lancet-shaped
windows, filling up the gable ;
these are glazed with modern
glass. Under the " Five Sisters" is an arcade of ten trefoiled
arches, running the whole width of the transept. In the
east aisle is the decorated door-way of the vestibule
leading to the chapter-house. Close to this door-way is the
beautiful modern altar-tomb, with marble recumbent efiigy,
to the memory of the late Dr. Beckwith, who died in 1843,
and left many munificent bequests to the charitable institutions
of the city. The niches on the sides of the tomb are filled
with an account of the various amounts—£46,000 in all. In
this aisle is also the tomb of Archbishop Grenefield, who died
in 1315. The tomb itself is of the ordinary altar shape, ornamented
with panels and pointed arches, on the slab of which
is an engraved brass plate representing the archbishop in his
robes, and wearing a pall ; over it is a canopy enriched with
crockets, the top terminating in a finial, with a small figure
of the prelate bearing his pastoral staff, and raised hand as in
the act of benediction. It presents a fine specimen of the style
which prevailed in the reign of Henry YI. It was behind
this tomb that Jonathan Martin, the incendiary, hid himself
on the night he set fire to the Cathedral : the space is now
boarded up. In the west aisle is the monument of John Haxby,
treasurer to the Cathedral, who died in 1414. It is a stone
figure within an iron grating, and represents a wasted corpse
in a winding sheet. Following out the stipulations contained
in certain ancient deeds of the Church, it is necessary that
some of the Cathedral revenues should be paid on this tomb.
In a line with Dr. Beckwith's monument, to the west, is
one to the memory of Archbishop Harcourt (1847), with
white marble figure, by Noble.

25
The stained-glass window in the north end of the west
aisle in this transept, is to the memory of Mr. Justice Wightman,
who died suddenly at York in 1863.
The plain glass window next to this is the one through
which Jonathan Martin made his escape.
The four windows to the south in the west aisle are in
memory of the officers and privates of the 9th and 51st regiments,
who died of cholera in India in 1861.
The enriched capitals of this transept, with the foliated
ornamentation, are particularly fine ; and the prevalence of
the dog-tooth ornament should also be noticed.
The Naye is 264 feet long, 103 feet 3 inches wide, and 96
feet high ;
with the exception of those of Ely and St. Paul's,
it is the largest in England. The length is divided on each
side into eight compartments, by seven clustered columns
with plain bases, and capitals enriched with beautiful
sculptured forms of foliage. The columns support pointed
arches of the decorated period, above which runs a triforium,
having an open screen in front; whilst in the clerestory are
eight windows on each side filled with stained glass, the
upper portion of those on the south side being of the Norman
period. In the spandrils of the arches are shields with the
heraldic achievements of the principal benefactors to the
Cathedral. Projecting from the open screen over the fifth arch
on the north side is the figure of a dragon, which originally
held in its mouth a cord, by which the cover of the baptismal
font formerly placed beneath it could be raised or lowered
as required. Immediately opposite, on the other side, is a
statue of St. George. The roof is of wood and plaster ; at
the intersection of the beams are elaborately carved bosses,
having representations of incidents named in Scripture. The
west end contains the magnificent window of eight lights,
54 feet high by 25 feet broad, and is said to be the finest
example of the decorated in existence. In the lower part of
the window are figures of eight archbishops ; in the row above
are eight saints, including St. Peter, St. Paul, and St. James;
above these are representations of the resurrection of our
Lord, the coronation of the Virgin, &c. The date of the
glass is 1330 to 1350. The side aisles are remarkable for
their width. The windows in the aisles are of the decorated
period, and contain some beautiful specimens of early

26
coloured glass. Under them runs a decorated arcade with
panels. When immediately under the great west window,
the visitor's attention is particularly called to the glorious
view looking eastward. Proceeding slowly down the centre
of the nave, the wonderful and gigantic proportions of this
grand building appeal to the beholder with overpowering
solemnity.
The Ohgan in the third arch of the north aisle of
the nave was erected by Messrs. Hill and Son, from a
specification prepared by Dr. Monk in 1863. It is intended
to accompany choral services and large bodies of singers in
this immense space, and has been designed with reference
this special object.
It has three manuals and pedal.
Great CC to A3 11 stops
]
Swell 9 /
—
Pedal CCC to F .. 6 „ j
with six couplers, four composition pedals and tremulant.
The pedal board is radiating and concave.
T^he Organ Screen is immediately under the central tower
and separates the choir from the nave. It is of stone sculptured
in the highest style of the perpendicular, divided into fifteen
compartments, on each of which is placed on a pedestal a
statue of one of the Kings of England arranged in
chronological order from William I. to Henry YI. ; there are
seven on the north and eight on the south side of the
entrance to the choir, namely :
to
North.
South.
^ ^ w S w S
Principal
Entrance
to the
Choir.
K i>
b b h
f-i u
Pi PI d
Above these statues is another row of small niches filled
playing on various musical
with diminutive figures of angels
instruments, and hence is called the " heavenly choir." It is
enriched with elaborate carved work, niches with pointed
arches, finials, crockets, grotesque figures, &c., &c., the whole
being surmounted by a parapet. It is
23J feet high, and

27
nearly 60 feet long. In the entrance to the choir, underneath
the organ, is a remarkable centre boss, representing
the Assumption of the Virgin, surrounded by angels.
The Organ, standing on the screen, and remarkable for
its depth, richness, and beauty of tone, was given by the Earl
of Scarborough in 1832. It was reconstructed and modernized
by Messrs. Hill and Son, of London, under the direction
of Dr. Monk, in 1859-60. It contains four manuals ; compass,
CC to G.
Great . . . . 24 stops. Solo . . . . 3 stops.
Swell.. 14 „ Pedal(CCCtoF).. 19 „
Choir . . . . 9 „ Couplers . . . . 7 „
Total, 76 draw stops.
There are eight composition pedals, and two tremulants.
The pneumatic action is applied to great, swell, and pedal
organs, which latter contains two 32 -feet stops. The tubas,
altogether unique in their unexampled grandeur and power^
are placed most effectively in horizontal position at the back
of the organ, where their tone is free and unobstructed, and
their appearance decidedly ornamental. The case is of
carved oak, Gothic, and the outside pipes beautifully diapered,
and was designed by Mackensie, under Sir E. Smirke.
The Choir.—Entering by the doorway under the organ,
the effect is exquisitely fine. The delicate carving of thestalls
and beautifully chiselled capitals of the columns, the
pointed arches and great height, the enriched corbels and
perforated bosses, the brazen eagle and elevated altar
bounded with the wondrous east window, constitute a
picture of marvellous beauty, which cannot f^il to quicken
in the beholder all the loftiest feelings of his nature, surrounded
as he is by such monuments of solemnity and awe-^
inspiring grandeur.
Like the nave, it is divided into three parts, a centre and:
side aisles ;
separating the centre from each side are eight
pillars having elaborately carved capitals ;
these support nine
lofty arches, above which is the triforium, with open passageway
and clerestory, in which are four lights on each side of
the choir transept windows. In the bays of the arches are
shields having coats of arms of the various founders. The
fifth arch on each side from the east end rises to the roof
and forms the transepts of the choir, a notable peculiarity of

28
this building. There are sixty-four richly canopied stalls
for the dignitaries of the Cathedral, namely, six on either
side of the entrance doorway, and twenty-six running up the
length of the choir north and south. These are completed
on the south by the Archbishop's throne, and on the opposite
side by the pulpit. The whole is of oak most beautifully
€arved, being finished off with crockets and enriched finials.
At the foot of the steps rising to the altar, between the
throne and pulpit, is the lectern or brazen eagle, from which
the lessons are read. At the east end, the altar is reached
by fifteen steps.
Behind the altar table is an open stone screen, having
mullions with transoms, tracery in the upper part, and an
ornamented embattled parapet; the eight lights are filled with
plate glass ;
thus dividing the choir from the lady chapel. In
front of this is a reredos of oak, with tryptich, containing an
alto-relievo cast of the Crucifixion. The sides of the upper
part of the choir are also glazed. In the aisles and lady chapel
are a number of remarkable tombs and efi^igies. The south
aisle contains several modern erections to the memory of
soldiers and others, namely:
A marble monument to Lieut. Henry Lees, 3rd Dragoon
Guards, accidentally killed by a fall from his horse in Phoenix
Park, Dublin, 30th September, 1876.
A marble monument to the officers and 191 men of the 33rd
Eegiment, who died whilst serving in India in 1857 to 1867.
A monumental brass to Frederick Yyner who was murdered
by Greek brigands on the 21st April, 1870.
A monumental brass to the officers and men of the l9th
Eegiment who fell in the Eussian war of 1854-5.
A sculptured monument to the memory of the officers and
men of the 51st or 2nd West Eiding Eegiment who fell in
the war in Burmah in 1852-3.
A monument to the officers and men of the 84th Eegiment
who fell in the Indian mutiny, 1857-9.
A monument to the officers and men of the 33rd Eegiment
who fell in the Eussian war, 1854-6
A monument to William Mason (1797), the poet, canon
residentiary of York, and also of his nephew, William Henry
Dixon (1854), joint authors of *'The Lives of the Archbishops
of York."

29
A monument to Major Oldfield, 5th Bengal Cavalry.
A finely sculptured monument of marble in memory of Lieut.
Col. Willoughby-Moore, seven non-commissioned officers and'
ten men of the 6th Inniskilling Dragoons who perished in
the burning of the " Europa" transport-ship in 1854.
In this aisle are the entrances to the vestry and chapter
clerk's office. Of the ancient monuments which commence
here and are continued beyond the division of the aisle by
iron raihngs, the most notable are the following
A tablet to Jane Hodson, wife of a chancellor of the
Cathedral, who died in 1636, in giving birth to her twentyfourth
child, she being in her thirty- eighth year.
A small monument to Archbishop Piers (1594), a favourite
of Queen Elizabeth.
A monument to Sir WilHam Gee, secretary of James I.
(1611), with effigies of himself, his two wives, and six
children, all in the attitude of prayer.
A monument to Archbishop Hutton (1757), with effigy of
himself in cope, rochet, and gown, and also of his three
children.
A monument to Archbishop Lamplugh (1691), a statue
with mitre and crozier.
The white marble monument is by Westmacott, to the
memory of William Burgh, D.C.L. (1808)
; it is an emblematical
figure of religion.
Against the south wall, towards the east end, is a marble
monument, with Corinthian columns, in memory of William
Wentworth, Earl of Strafford (1695), son of the famous earl^.
on it are effigies of the earl and his countess, above are the
arms of the family.
At the east end is a life-sized statue in Eoman toga, &c.,,
Thomas Watson Wentworth (1723), third son of Edward
of
Lord Rockingham.
The massive tomb which fills the whole of the bay between
the lady chapel and the south aisle of the first arch, from the
east end, is that of Archbishop Bowet (1423) ; above the
tomb is a lofty elliptical arch 30 feet high, in the form of a
canopy, having beautiful tracery, capped with three lofty
pinnacles, each containing a statue. This monument is a rich
and elegant specimen of the fiorid style of Anglo Norman,
architecture.

30
In a line with the above, under the second arch, is
an altar tomb with plain black marble slab to the memory
of Archbishop Mathew, 1628 (whose effigy lies just under
the great east window), celebrated in his day as a famous
preacher and wit; he was a favourite of both EHzabeth
and James I. : this is a modern erection, the original
having been destroyed in the last great fire.
Near the entrance to the crypt in this aisle is the altar
tomb of Archbishop Dolben (1686), who was a stauncK
royalist and standard bearer at the battle of Marston Moor ;
on it is a recumbent figure in full episcopal vestments.
The great window in the transept of this aisle is called
St. Cuthbert's, because of its having illustrations of the life
and miracles of that saint ; it contains 108 compartments, is
72 feet high by 16 feet 6 inches wide. It was presented by
the representatives of a bishop of Durham in 1437.
The last window on the south side is a most beautiful
specimen of colour work in glass. It represents the Annunciation
after Sebastian del Piombo, and was presented by the
Earl of Carlisle in 1804, who brought it from the church of
St. Nicholas in Rouen.
The Lady Chapel extends from the back of the altar
screen to the great east window. This chapel contains
the following monuments and tombs :
Against the wall, immediately under the great window, one
to Archbishop Sharp (1713) ;
it consists of an altar supported
by Corinthian columns, on which is a recumbent figure
of the Archbishop ; this prelate was remarkable for his strong
opposition to the Eomish predilections of James II.
The flat stone with floriated cross is to the memory of
Archbishop Sewal (1238).
The mutilated effigy on the ground is one of Archbishop
jVIathew, named previously.
The altar tomb under the north corner of the east
window is that of Cardinal Archbishop Rotherham (1500).
He was Lord Chancellor in Edward lY.'s reign; the monument
was restored in 1832 by Lincoln CoUege, Oxford, to
which he was a great benefactor.
Behind this tomb is a kneeling figure to the memory of
Frances Mathew, wife of the Archbishop of that name ; she
was the daughter of a bishop, married the son of an Arch-

31
bishop of Canterbury for her first
husband, the Archbishop
of York for her second husband, and her four sisters
married bishops.
Against the wall is a Corinthian monument, with effigy
in rochet and gown, to Archbishop Frewen (1664).
Under the first arch from the east end on the north side of
the Lady Chapel is the plain altar tomb of the fighting Archbishop
Scrope, who was beheaded in a field near Bishopthorpe
in 1405 for high treason. In such great estimation
was this prelate held that his grave was visited by large numbers
of the people, w^hen so many miracles were said to have
been performed, that Henry IV. ordered it to be concealed
with great logs of wood. (Scrope's rebellion forms one of
the principal scenes in Shakespeare's Henry IV., parts 1
and 2.)
In a line with this monument, and under the second arch,
is one to the memory of William Markham (1807), who for
thirty years was Archbishop of York. It is of stone, richly
carved, and bearing shields emblazoned with coats of arms,
and is surrounded with a pavement of encaustic tiles. His
remains lie in Westminster Abbey.
The tomb of Archbishop Musgrave (1860) stands in the
centre of the chapel : the effigy is by Noble.
The great east window may be said to be a miracle of
masonry and glazing. It is 76 feet 9 inches high, by 81
feet 9 inches wide, and " is the largest window in the kingdom
that retains its original glazing." It is divided into
200 compartments, each filled with beautiful stained glass
having figures about two feet high. The subjects in the
upper part are taken from the Old Testament—the creation,
the Tower of Babel, scenes from the lives of the patriarchs,
of Moses, of David, and others. Those below the upper gallery
are from the book of Eevelations, except in the lowest
tier, which are representations of various saints, kings, and
bishops. The glass work was by John Thornton, of Coventry
(1408); who undertook to design and paint the various
subjects for the sum of four shillings per week for his own
work, and to complete the window in less than three years,
at the end of each year to have five pounds extra, and when
the work was completed ten pounds as a reward. The
masonry consists of three stages, having three divisions, each

32
liaving transoms, the two lower ones having open arches with
passage ways. The upper portion is a beautiful specimen
of tracery in the most chaste and pure style of the Perpendicular.
The north aisle contains, amongst other monuments at the
east end,
A white marble mitred figure reclining on a pedestal,
with his head on his hand, in memory of Archbishop Sterne
(1683), great grandfather of the celebrated Lawrence Sterne.
The drapery of the figure is finely chiselled. He was chap-
Iain to the haughty Archbishop Laud, whom he attended on
the scaffold.
Under the second window is a white marble figure of Sir
George Saville (1784) leaning against a pillar, having a scroll
in his hand inscribed, " The petition of the freeholders of
the county of York." He represented the county in five
successive parliaments.
The large monument with naval ornaments is to the
memory of Vice-Admiral Henry Medley (1747).
Past this, is one of very massive proportions, in black and
white marble, to the memory of Charles, Earl of Carlisle
(1707), erected by his daughter, Lady Mary Fenwick, which
also commemorates the death of her husband in 1696, who
was executed for high treason.
One with two half-length figures to the first Sir William
Ingram, D.C.L. (1623), and his wife; also to the second
Sir William, LL.D. (1670).
The monument with figure kneeling at a desk is to the
memory of Henry Swinburne, LL.D. (1656).
The massive monument with figures kneeling, over
which is a canopy supported by three columns, is to the
memory of Sir Henry and Lady Bellasis (1630). The
inscription, which contains no date, states that he erected
the monument himself, and it concludes with an admonition
in Latin, thus translated : Death is certain, the day
of it is uncertain ;
there is no dependence on the care of
those that follow us ;
he is wise that prepares himself a tomb
—the habitual remembrance of death and judgment is the
best preservative from sin."
Here iron railings cross the aisle.
Near to an entrance to the crypt is the altar tomb of
Archbishop Savage (1507), with mitred figure. Above is

I

33
an arch with ornamented cornice, on which is an inscription
and carved figures of angels bearing shields.
The two triangular ancient chests were formerly used for
holding the vestments of the priests.
The transept window in this aisle is similar to the one
in the south, and is called Saint William's, having representations
of many of the events of his life.
The last tomb is that of Prince William de Hatfield,
son of Edward III., who died in York in 1343, when seven
years old. It consists of a figure in a recumbent position,
above which is an elaborate series of lofty canopies.
The Crypt.—This is entered from door-ways in both aisles
of the choir. It contains remains of the earliest structures,
has four
and is a mixture of Saxon and Norman architecture ;
aisles running under nearly the whole of the choir, and a
groined roof supported by arches erected since the last fire ;
there are six massive Norman pillars, five feet six inches high
there are also four clustered columns of Norman work
curiously sculptured, and a portion of a door-jamb similarly
worked. Some Saxon herring-bone work, in good preservation,
may also be seen, supposed to date from about 770. In
the crypt were formerly several chantries, one of which Torre
informs us was called the Chantry of the Altar of St. Mary,
zn Crf/ptis,^' and that her mass was daily celebrated there with
note and organ. On special occasions it is illuminated with gas.
The Chapter-house is approached through a vestibule,
entered from the east aisle of the north transept,
which is lighted by eight large richly coloured windows,
the walls underneath being ornamented with tracery.
Near the door-way is the following Latin couplet in
Saxon characters:
Wit : 'gom p^l0S : pl^Iomm
$k tut: ^omn$ : btu: pomatum:''
As the rose is the chief of flowers, so is this the house of
houses.") The door-way is formed by two trefoiled arches,
having a shaft down the centre, in which is a niche containing
a mutilated figure of the Virgin and child. The house
itself is octagonal in form, 63 feet in diameter by 67 feet 10
inches high. Seven of the bays are occupied with large
lancet-headed windows, 46 feet high by 17 feet 6 inches in
D

34
"breadth ; the tracery, which is of the richest kind, all filled
with stained glass of the period of Edwards II. and III.,
except the one opposite the entrance, which was restored a few
years ago. The illustrations in the windows are events from
sacred history or from the lives of the saints. The entrance
doorway occupies the eighth side, above which is tracery,
matching that of the windows, with a row of 13 niches
formerly filled with figures, supposed to have been those of
Christ and the twelve apostles. The vaulted roof is elaborate
in design and workmanship, and contains on the various bosses
and intersections of the groining a number of grotesque heads
and figures, no two being alike; it is illuminated with stars
of gold on a blae ground; the floor is of encaustic tiles. There
are stalls for the clergy all round the building, and a gallery
above, between the top of the stalls and the sills of the
windows. The table is of great antiquity. It is in this justly
celebrated and most beautiful of houses that convocation meets
for the northern part of the kingdom, after which it adjourns
to the Zouch Chapel.
The Vestry —The entrance to this is in the south aisle of the
choir; it is immediately adjacent to the chapel built by Archbishop
de la Zouch, in which are several closets and receptacles
for valuables and antiquities pertaining to the Cathedral.
Of the antiquities, the most celebrated is the horn of
Ulphus, made of an elephant's tusk 29 inches in length,,
curiously carved, and was originally ornamented with gold
mountings. It is a most valuable relic of ancient art,,
and is the title by which the Dean and Chapter hold several
of their estates. The circumstances of the gift are recorded
as follows: Ulphus, son-in-law of Canute, was a Saxon
prince of the western part of Deira. Finding that his two
sons were likely to quarrel after his death about their
inheritance, he resolved to make them both equal. Coming
to York, he brought this horn, from which he was accustomed
to drink, filled it with wine, and kneeling before the altar
devoutly drank it off, thus dedicating all his lands and
revenues to God and St. Peter for ever. After the reformation,
the horn was stolen, the value of its ornament, no
doulDt, being the temptation. It, however, ultimately fell
into the hands of Sir Thomas Fairfax, the parliamentarian
general, whose son, Henry Lord Fairfax, restored it to the

35
Cathedral, denuded of its gold. In 1675, it was re-decorated
with brass by order of the Dean and Chapter, who added an
inscription plate, on which the above-named circumstances are
recorded.
The indulgence cup of Archbishop Scrope is a singular
relic of the middle ages ; it consists of a bowl of wood on
three cherubs' heads of silver as feet ; the rim is edged with
silver gilt, on which is the following inscription :
hxinkh of t^i^ cope f^ti iagi$ ta partron/' |lobrf §ohmn,
best^ope mtm grant in mmz Immz afore- saxJr,
f ITli bagi$ ta
parbojt, llobrt Mxtmnllu.**
It is generally supposed to have been given by Scrope to the
guild of Corpus Christi held in York ; at the dissolution of
this guild it passed into the possession of the Cordwainers'
Company, by whom it was presented in 1808 to the Dean and
Chapter.
There exists here a curiously carved oak chest of the
fourteenth century, about the time of Edward III., with
representations of the story of St.
George and the Dragon, in
alto-relievo.
An ancient coronation chair said to be as old as the
Heptarchy.
A silver crozier, about seven feet long, taken from the
hands of the last Eoman Catholic archbishop designate of
York in James II's. reign, as he was entering the Minster in
solemn procession, 1687, by Lord Danby, who presented it to
the Dean and Chapter.
Signet rings of gold and rubies, belonging to several
archbishops.
Several antique silver chahces and patens taken from
tho tombs of various archbishops.
An old copy of the Bible (1611), with chain to secure it.
Bible and Prayer Book, presented by Charles I. whilst
residing in York.
Bible in two volumes, presented by Charles II.
Some curious ancient armour.
Two figures of wood images of saints formerly fixed on
the Minster clock, to strike the quarters.
Candlesticks in silver gilt, 200 years old.

36
Brass offertory dishes,
about 500 years old.
Old colours of the 65th and 84th Regiments of Infantry.
Two small old chests (very curious), supposed to be
Peter's pence boxes.
Archbishop de la Zouch's Chapel (1351) is to the east
of the vestry, and can be entered either from the choir
aisle or from the vestry; it is now used as the chapter
clerk's office. It contains the valuable fabric rolls which
have so much enlightened us in the history of the erection
of this venerable building. This room is also used
for the sittings of convocation.
The Treasury can also be entered from the vestry or from
the east aisle of the south transept ; there is nothing remarkable
in it except Peter's well, which is in the south-west
corner. It is now used as the choristers' school-room.
The Towers.—^The great central-tower is ascended through
a smaU door-way in the western aisle of the south transept.
The top is reached by an ascent of two hundred and seventythree
steps, when, if the atmosphere be clear, a very extensive
view of the Vale of York may be seen.
The south-west or bell-tower is ascended through a small
door-way in the south aisle of the west end of the nave, which
leads to the bell-chamber; from this a gallery along the west
front leads to the north-west tower, in which the monster
bell, *'Big Peter," is installed in a room to himself.
The Peal of Bells consists of twelve, of various dimensions,
from 2i to 5i feet in height. The following are the
particulars of weights and diameters
No. Cwts. Qrs. Lbs. Ft. In.
7 14 1 2 3 6
8 17 3 18 3 9
9 19 3 11 4 0
10 25 1 10 4 3
11 35 3 7 4 9
12 ... 63 3 0 5 5
No. Cwts. Qrs. Lbs. Ft. In.
1 . 7 1 22 2 6
2 7 1 U 2 7
3 .804 2 8
4 ... 8 1 12 2 11
5 .... 9 2 15 3 0
6 .. 13 0 8 3 21
With the exception of "Big Ben " at the Houses of Parliament,
'^Big Peter" is the largest bell in England. ^
It is
7 feet 2 inches high, diameter 8 feet 4 inches, and weighs 10
tons 15 cwt.; the clapper weighs 4 cwt. 1 qr. 5 lbs., and the
ironwork 13 cwt. 2 qrs. 19 lbs.; the thickness of the soundingcurve
is 7 inches. It was cast by Messrs. Mears, of London,
in 1845, at a cost of £2,000, which was raised by pubhc

37
subscription. The bell is never rung, but tolled or struck on
the outside line with a hammer fixed as a lever, the bell being
stationary: the clapper is not used. The hour at noon
(except Sundays; is daily struck upon this bell, and the last
hour of every dying year. It is also tolled on the death of
royal or illustrious personages.
"In monkish mediaeval times church bells enjoyed peculiar
esteem. They were treated in great measure as voices, and
were inscribed with Latin ejaculations and prayers, such as
' Hail, Mary, full of grace, pray for us
;
'
'
St. Peter, pray for us,*
&c., &c. : their tones swung out into the air would ecstatically
appear to give utterances to the supplications with which they
were inscribed. ... In those old times, pious queens
and gentlewomen threw into the mass of metal that was to be
cast into a
'
bell their gold and silver ornaments. . . . One
of the ancient windows on the north side of the nave of York
Minster is filled with stained glass, which is divided into subjects
representing the various processes of bell- casting, bellcleaning,
and bell-tuning, and has for a border a series of bells,
one below another; proving that the associations with which
bells were regarded rendered them both ecclesiastical and pictorial
in the eyes of the artists of old.'" Chambers's Booh
of Days.
The Bell-window named above is immediately behind the
nave organ.
The Services are
Sundays 10-30 a.m. and 4-0 p.m. in Summer.
10-30 a.m., 4-0 and 6-45 p.m. in Winter.
Week-days... 10-0 a.m. and 4-30 p.m.
Between 9 and 10 a.m. and from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. visitors
are conducted by one of the vergers through the choir and
other places of interest, at a fixed fee of sixpence for each
person. For the ascent to the central-tower, sixpence extra is
charged.
Registry of the Diocese.—The building in the angle
of the nave and south transept, close to the entrance, is the
Registry of the Diocese. Here are preserved ancient ecclesiastical
documents and wills as far back as 1389; and a
register is kept of all wills for the northern district of
England since 1730, up to January 7th, 1858. A copy of
any one can be read on payment of one shilling.

A—St. William's Tomb.
B—Font.
€—Entrance to Chapel of St.
Mary and the Angels (now
taken down)
D—Archbishop Scrope's Tomb.
E—Archbishop De La Zouch's
Chapel.
F—The Vestry.
G—The Treasury (now Choristers'
School-room).
39
REFERENCE.
H—Archbishop Walter de Grey's
Tomb.
J—Archbishop Grenefield's
Tomb.
K—Altar (or Communion Table).
L—Door-way leading to top of
Central Tower.
M—North Transept.
N—South Transept.
O—Will Office.
P—South Entrance.
DIMENSIONS
ft. in.
Extreme length 486 0
length 264 0
width 103 3
height 96 0
length 156 6
width 52 0
height 101 0
Choir and Lady length 223 0
Chapel j height 101 0
width 52 9
Lady Chapel. . length 66 6
width 52 9
North Transept.. .length 96 6
height
width 94 6
South Transept. length 104 6
INTERNALLY.
ft. in.
South Transept ..width 90 0
Chapter House . . diam. 63 0
height 67 10
Great Tower ....diam. 44 9
height 180 0
Organ Screen .... length 60 0
height 24 0
East Window height 76 9
width 32 0
West Window .... height 54 6
width 25 6

40
CELEBEATED AECHBISHOPS.
Since the consecration of
this See there have been eightysix
Archbishops, amongst whom may be mentioned the
following
Paulinns (625), the Apostle of the Northumbrians and
first Archbishop.
Egbert (731), the friend of Alcuin and literature, and
founder of the old Minster Library.
St. William (1153), canonised 125 years after his death.
Geoffrey Plantagenet (1190), natural son of Henry 11.
and Fair Eosamond.
Walter de Grey (1216), who purchased the manor of
Thorpe, now called Bishopthorpe, and built the palace there.
John Thoresby (1352). It was in this prelate's time that
the constant disputes for precedence between the Sees of
Canterbury and York were decided by the Pope, who made
the Archbishop of the former, Primate of All England.
Eichard Scrope (1398), betrayed and beheaded for rebellion.
George Neville (1464) was brother to the celebrated
Earl of Warwick, the king-maker.
Thomas de Eotherham (1480), having died of the plague^
was buried in effigy in the Cathedral.
Thomas Wolsey (1514), the celebrated Cardinal.
Nicholas Heath (1555), the last Eoman Catholic Archbishop,
was patronised by Queen Mary.
Thos. Young (1561), a most avaricious man, who took
down the great hall in the palace at York for the sake of
the lead that covered it.
Acceptus Frewen (1660), appointed to the See after it
had remained vacant for ten years ;
he lived in a state of
celibacy, and would not even have a female servant.
John Dolben (1683) was a soldier in his younger days,
and served as ensign at the battle of Marston Moor, where he
was dangerously wounded by a musket ball.
The Hon. Edward Vernon Harcourt (1808). His Grace
was born in 1757, educated at Westminster School, and
afterwards removed to Christ Church, Oxford. He was
Chaplain to the King, and Prebendary of Gloucester. In
1785 he was appointed Canon of Christ Church ;
in 1791,

41
Bishop of Carlisle ; and was translated to tlie See of York;
in 1808. Perhaps no prelate in ancient or modern times
was more universally respected for his candour, disinterestedness,
and liberality. The labouring poor of the
village where he resided frequently beheld his cheering presence
on the threshold of their cottages
;
and, in the absence
of other ministers, he has been known to visit the humblest
families to perform the sacred offices of religion.
The present, and eighty-sixth prelate, is William Thomson,
D.D., formerly Bishop of Gloucester and Bristol, translated.
1863.
The Archbishop of York, being Primate and Metropolitan
of England, has the privilege of crowning the Queen
Consort, and also is her perpetual chaplain.
MINSTER YAED, DEANERY, &c.
The Minster Yard.—The space of ground surrounding
the Cathedral is called the Minster Yard. Before 1825 the
approaches to the Minster were extremely narrow, being
almost choked up with houses and other buildings. In that,
year an Act was passed enabhng the Dean and Chapter to
take steps for their enlargement and improvement. In 1839
Peter Prison, or Hall of Pleas for the Liberty of St. Peter,
which stood near the west end, was taken away, and a number
of houses adjoining the church of St. Michael-le-Belfrey were
pulled down. On the north side, called Deanery Gardens,
masses of rubbish and the meanest buildings were allowed to
exist, to the great disfigurement of the locality. These were all
thrown down, the site covered with turf, and ornamented by
two fine houses, the Deanery and Canons' residence. During
the progress of these improvements, which are due in a great
measure to the taste of Dean Cockburn, part of the cloisters
of the old Archbishop's Palace, built by Archbishop Thomas,
the first of that name (1070), were discovered forming the
wall of a stable. These Anglo-Norman arches, some of the
most ancient remains in the city, may be seen covered with
ivy on the further side of the gardens.

42
The Minster Library is the only other portion of the
palace existing ;
it was the chapel, and is a most interesting specimen
of Early English architecture. Since 1808 it has been
restored, and now contains upwards of 8,000 volumes and
MSS., formerly kept in a small building attached to the south
-side of the Minster. This present collection, it must be understood,
is of modern formation. The ancient one, which was
established by Archbishop Egbert (731 to 767) was most valuable,
and was entrusted to the care of the learned Alcuin, in
whose time students came from afar to avail themselves of the
treasures it contained. This was unfortunately consimied by
fire in 1069. The nucleus of the present one was formed in
the seventeenth century by the presentation of 3,000 volumes
by the widow of Archbishop Mathew. It has since been
enriched by gifts from Lord Fairfax and others, and by the
library of Dr. Fothergill, the non-juring minister of Skipwith.
It is a commodious room, lighted at the west end by
five lancet windows, filled with stained glass.
Amongst the antiquarian and literary treasures it contains
are : a copy of the Second Edition of Erasmus' New Testament,
in Greek and Latin, two folio volumes, printed on
vellum, by Frobenius at Basle.
A MS. copy of Wickliffe's New Testament, on vellum, with
autograph of Queen Elizabeth.
Three MS. copies of the Vulgate, on vellum, of the time
of Henry III. and Edward I.
Also a number of valuable books printed by Caxton,
Wynkyn de Worde, and Pynson.
It is open to visitors free, on Mondays and Wednesdays,
from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m., and on Saturdays from 2 till
4 p.m.
Adjoining is the Deanery, a large and handsome house,
in the Tudor style, built of stone in 1827. The old
Deanery was on the south-east side of the Minster Yard,
the site now occupied by the School of Design.
To the north-west is The Canons' Eesidence, also in the
Tudor style, and intended for the accommodation of the four
residentiary Canons during their quarterly term of office.
York Probate Kegistry of the High Court of Justice, a
semi-Gothic building, nearly opposite the south entrance to
the Minster. Here are kept all wills for the North and East

43
Hidings since January, 1858, any one of whicli may be seen,
daily on payment of the customary fee of one shilling.
St. William's College is in College-street, close to the
east end of the Minster. It is a square block of buildings,
principally Jacobean in style, having a quadrangular courtyard,
the entrance to which is a gateway of late Perpendicular^
surmounted by a figure of Saint William, much defaced by
time. It was originally intended for the honour of Saint
William for the parsons and chantry priests of the Cathedral
to reside in, letters patent for that purpose having been
granted by Henry YI. and confirmed by Edward IV. In
one of the apartments the Eoyal Printing Press was set up
in 1642 by Charles I. during his residence in the city. The
college is now let off in tenements to poor people.
A few doors down the street, close to the archway,
on the same side, is the house and shop occupied by
George Hudson, the Eailway King, in the early part of
his career.
The Bedern, in Goodramgate, opposite the end of Collegestreet
(derived from hede to pray, now obsolete, and erne a
detached dwelling), was once the exclusive residence of the
Yicars Choral of the Cathedral. They were thirty-six in
number, and, besides their daily duty in the choir, had to
perform the ofiices for the dead, day and night. The College
of the Vicars Choral was founded by Archbishop Walter de
'Grey (1252). It was once the site of the palace of the Roman
Emperors ; but now nothing remains of its former grandeur,
the houses, which are in the most dilapidated condition, are
tenanted by the lowest class of the labouring population.
There is a Chapel of Ease belonging to the Minster, and
dedicated to the Holy Trinity, the Vii'gin Mary, and St.
Catherine ; it is a small stone building of debased GotKic
(1348). Although public worship has not been performed
here for many years, christening of children and churching of
women have been solemnized until very recently.
is very damp and rapidly falling to decay
The chapel

THE WALLS AND BAES.
The City Walls' and Bars form one of the most characteristic
features of York.
The date of their first erection cannot
be accurately fixed.
It is thought that the walls existed
in ancient British times prior to the Eoman invasion. It is
however, certain that the Eomans invested the city with a
wall, as portions of their work may still be seen. The walls
were repaired by Edward I., and in the third Edward's reign
the city was thoroughly fortified, when no doubt, some
portions of the present walls were built. In 1644 the
walls and bars suffered much through the siege made by the
army under General Fairfax and other parliamentarian leaders.
On the western side of the city they are perfect, and form
one of the pleasantest walks, commanding fine views of the
Minster, Castle, Churches, and the immediate surrounding
country. On the east side they are also complete from the
river Foss (Fishergate postern) to the Red Tower. Prior
to 1878 the walls from Layerthorpe to Lendal ran through
private grounds, and were not available to the public, but
now we are happy to state that, as far as Monk Bar, they
are thoroughly repaired and open for promenade. We
recommend the visitor to make the tour, commencing at
North-street postern from Lendal Bridge ; on the right he
will have a good view of the Museum and grounds which lay
on the opposite side of the river, beyond which the village of
Clifton may be seen with the ings ; the Hambleton hills in
the distance. Two openings have recently been made in the
walls for the convenience of railway traffic. On our right is
the palace-like hotel of the North Eastern Railway Company
and the new station, and at the foot of the ramparts is the
cholera burial ground (1832). Coming to the north-west
bastion, the hill where the Roman Emperor Severus is
supposed to be buried, may be seen. By some his body is
said to have been burnt here, and the ashes sent in an urn of
porphyry to Rome. A few miles further westward is the
historic ground of Marston Moor. Continuing on, we come
to the grand old Micklegate Bar.

MICKLEGATE
BAR, YORK

45
MICKLEGATE BAR
consists of a square tower built over a single arch,
with embattled turrets at the angles, each turret mounted
with a stone figure of a warder. There are shields in
the front of the bar bearing the arms of England and
France quarterly, the arms of the city, each with a canopy
above them; also those of Sir John Lister Kaye, Bart.,
Lord Mayor in 1727, during whose year of office this bar was
renovated. On the inside, the arms of England with Franc6
are again sculptured. The side arches are modern, the
chambers are at present inhabited. It was on this bar that
the heads of many notorious traitors have been exposed.
The date of its erection is about 1300 ;
the chief arch
on the outer side is supposed by many to be of Roman
work. The barbican was removed in 1826, and the portcullis
more recently.
Continuing our walk on the walls, passing the Nunnery
with its grounds on our right, Scarcroft and Knavesmire
in the distance, we reach Victoria Bar, a modern
opening. A little beyond this a grand view of the
Minster is to be had, giving an idea of its noble
proportions. At the south-west bastion we overlook the
suburbs of Clementhorpe and the road leading to Bishopthorpe.
Turning the angle we soon arrive at Skeldergate
Postern, having Baile Hill on our left, on which, in ancient
times, the Archbishops had a prison, and in more modern
times, in the hollow, the city j air was built, but which is now
taken down. At our feet is the river, beyond it the Castle
and hoary Keep of Clifford's Tower ;
to the right may be seen
the New Walk, a very pleasant path along the left bank of the
river leading to the pretty village of Fulford : the spire of the
church may be discerned peeping out from among the trees.
Descending the steps, let us cross the river by the new iron
bridge; on our left are some remains of the old walls, running
up to Tower Street; in front are new buildings attached
to the Assize Courts, consisting of rooms and offices for the
grand jury, barristers, and witnesses. Crossing Castle Mills
Bridge over the river Foss, just beyond is the square tower
or keep of Fishergate postern, an erection of the fifteenth
century. Passing through the archway, we mount the walls

46
again, and very shortly come to the old postern gate of
George-street. On our right we pass the spacious Cattle
Market, beyond which may be seen the new War Offices^,
the campanile tower of Melbourne Street Wesleyan Chapel
to the left the elevated ground whereon the besieging army
was encamped in 1644, now occupied by the Retreat, an
asylum for the insane, belonging to the Society of Friends^-
We now arrive at
WALMGATE BAE,
*
the most unique and only one in England with barbican complete.
The bar itself consists of a square tower, with turretsat
the angles, but not so lofty as any of the others, and
barbican, which was rebuilt in 1648, after the siege. This
bar was erected in the reign of Edward L, and the barbican
in that of Edward III. Above the entrance on the inside,
and partly supported on stone pillars, is a domestic building
of timber and plaster of the time of Elizabeth. The old
doors, wickets, and portcullis still exist in a state of good
preservation. The arms of Henry Y., England and France,
quarterly, ornament the front of the bar, and those of the
city the front of the barbican, with the date of its restoration.
The wall beyond the bar to the eastward is the oldest
portion, and consists for some distance of a series of irregular
arches of rude stonework of great antiquity, by some supposed
to be the work of Eoman hands. A short distance
further on is the Red Tower, so called from being built of brick,,
with which the walls end on this side the city. From Walmgate
Bar to this point they are in good repair, and are available
as a promenade ; but being low, and the country very
flat, no good views are to be had : the spire of Heworth Church
is seen on the horizon. From the Red Tower to Layerthorpe
Bridge the city was protected in ancient times by the river
Foss, so that a wall was considered unnecessary. Crossing
the Foss Islands, as this low, marshy piece of ground is called^
to Layerthorpe, and over the bridge, we come to where
formerly stood a tower or keep. Ascending the steps, we
proceed onwards to Monk Bar, having on the outside of the
walls Jewbury (in ancient times the Jews' quarter) and
Barker Hill, with a view of the County Hospital, the Gas-
Works, and the new church of St. Maurice close to the Bar.
On the inside we see St. Cuthbert's Church, and overlook

47
the Blue Coat Boys' School, with its play-ground and gardens,,
and the Merchant Tailors' Hall, shortly arriving at
MONK BAE,
so called after General Monk, the hero of the Eestoration
formerly Goodramgate Bar. It is the loftiest of the four, is
Decorated in style, and is the most perfect specimen of its
kind in the kingdom. It consists of a massive square tower,
over an archway, having a groined roof of stone, with boldly
corbelled and embattled turrets, at the angles of which are
massive and grotesque figures in the act of hurling stones at
an imaginary foe. The front of the bar is ornamented with
the arms of England and France, quarterly, with a knight's
helmet as crest, under a canopy, and the arms of the city on
each side. The iron spikes at the bottom of the old portcullis
still hang in threatening attitude above the ancient gateway.
The interior is of two stories, with vaulted chambers, and
was formerly used as a prison.
Proceeding down Lord Mayor's Walk, the walls may be
seen in very good condition, with here and there on the
inside unsightly excrescences, in the shape of summer-houses
and other similar buildings, impinged upon them ; but
running through private property, are unfortunately not
available to the public. From the corner of Gillygate to
BOOTHAM BAE
the walls are entirely hidden by houses. This bar is a square
tower, similar in form to the others, built on a Norman arch
has turrets at the corners, on which are figures of stone. It
is supposed to have been erected about the fourteenth century,
though some portions are of a later date. The front of the
bar is ornamented with two shields, bearing the city arms,
and one within a garter in a decayed condition. The portcullis
may still be seen in its ancient position.
From this point to the Multangular Tower, on to the entrance
lodge of the Museum (with the exception of a few yards
in front of the Exhibition building and at St. Leonard's Hospital)
down to Lendal Tower, the walls exist in a good state of
preservation. Portions of the boundary walls to the grounds,
of St. Mary's Abbey are still in existence, running behind the
houses on the south side of Bootham to the old tower or keep
at the corner of Marygate. This was blown up during

48
the last siege of the city, when many valuable documents
were destroyed. At the bottom of the same street, close to
the river, is another bastion, called St. Mary's Tower, where
were outworks or guard-posts of observation. Having com-
;pleted our survey of the walls, we will now visit The Museum.
THE
MUSEUM.
MUSEUM GARDENS, EUINS OF ST. MARY'S ABBEY,
ST. LEONARD'S HOSPITAL,
MULTANGULAR TOWER, MUSEUM, AND
HOSPITIUM.
The above are situate on a plot of ground extending from
Esplanade to the
Museum Street to Marygate, and from the
back of the School for the Blind, the entrance being in
Museum Street. On passing through the gate and turning
to the right, we enter the ruins of
ST.
LEONARD'S HOSPITAL,
said to have been founded in 936 by Athelstane for the
relief of sick and indigent poor. All that remains of this
once large and wealthy establishment is the entrance passage
leading to the ambulatory or covered cloisters of transition
Norman^ at the east end of which is a small room. Above is
the chapel, of Early English^ and the infirmary, so arranged
as to give the sick the benefit and consolation of hearing
divine service. Many privileges were granted by William
the Conqueror, William Rufus, Henry I., and King Stephen.
In the middle ages its revenues were enormous, but its former
prosperity had sadly diminished at the time of the dissolution
by Henry VIII. A few paces further on is the
MULTANGULAR TOWER,
with ten sides, forming nine obtuse angles, hence its name.
It is undoubtedly Roman work, as is proved by inscriptions
on stones discovered near the foundation. A few feet above
the ground five rows of Roman tiles are built into the wall,
the upper part being of mediseval date, and is of great
interest to the antiquary. Both here and in the Hospital of
St. Leonard's are a number of stone coffins. Passing the
Curator's residence, we arrive at the

49
MUSEUM OF THE YORKSHIRE PHILOSOPHICAL
SOCIETY,
ivith its Doric portico. It contains lecture hall or theatre,
council room, library, offices, and a suite of rooms in which
are arranged collections in every division of natural history,
with objects of antiquarian interest and research. It was
erected in 1827 from designs by W. Wilkins, R.A., and
opened February 2nd, 1830, the first president being
the Rev. William V. Harcourt, M.A., F.R.S. No detailed
description of the contents can be given in a notice like the
present, but some of the more remarkable objects may be
alluded to. Hanging on the walls of the theatre are three
large tapestry maps of different parts of England, executed
in 1588. They are amongst the earliest products of the art
in this coimtry, and were presented by Archbishop Harcourt
in 1827. They were once the property of Horace Walpole.
The room on the right contains a valuable collection of the
skeletons of birds, made by Mr. AUis, of York, and purchased
by the Council for £350 in 1838. In the centre cases are
arranged British and foreign shells ; there are also a few
skeletons of mammalia and reptiles of equal interest. The
next room contains stuffed birds with brilliant plumage, and
among them the apteryx or wingless bird from New Zealand.
Adjoining this is that set apart for the display of mineralogical
and geological specimens.
There is also a perfect skeleton of the Dinorms Bobustus
or Moa, from New Zealand, presented by J. H. Gibson, Esq.
This bird is over eight feet high, its thigh bones are like
those of an ox, and is the finest specimen of the genus
known.
In 1857 remains of the Ichthyosaurus were discovered at
Whitby, and presented by the Rev. D. R. Roundell, which
necessitated an enlargement of the premises. Three new
rooms were added, the expense being defrayed by an appeal
to the county, when upwards of ^^1,000 was obtained.
There are also two Plesiosaurt, one contributed in 1854 by
Col. Chomley, the other by the Earl of Zetland. These
examples of Saurian monsters cannot fail to attract the
attention of the visitor.
In 1878 the trustees of the Museum received from
William Reed, Esq., F.G.S., a citizen of York, one of the

50
finest and most perfect geological collections ever formed^
by an amateur geologist. We copy the following by permission
from the report of the Yorkshire Philosophical Society
(1878) "
: The collection presented by Mr. Reed has been
formed at a great cost over a period of many years, and has
been well known to geologists as one of the most valuable
private collections in the United Kingdom. The Council
congratulate the Society' on its possession, and which when
displayed in the Society's rooms will raise our Museum to
the first rank among similar scientific institutions in this
country. The arrangement of the collection will be a work
of some time, and is now being actively and systematically
carried out under the personal superintendence of Mr. Reed,
aided by Dr. Purves, the recently appointed keeper of the
Museum. The collection presented by Mr. Reed consists
of : 1. A complete series of shells of the land, fresh water,
and marine mollusca of Great Britain, comprising many fine
specimens of the later species, and several of those forms
first ascertained to be still living members of the British
Fauna during the dredging expedition of the Lightning and
Porcupine. 2. An extensive collection of mammalian remains
from English post -tertiary deposits, remarkable among
which, for their fine state of preservation, are the teeth and,
bones of rhinoceros, horse hippopotamus, urus, megaceros.
elephant, bear, lion, hyaena, beaver, &c. 3. A large series of
shells of the same period, from fluviatite and marine deposits
in various parts of England, Scotland, and Ireland. 4. A
magnificent collection of fossils from the Norwich, Red and
Coralline Crags. The suite of vertebrate remains, especially,
are of great value. This is probably the finest private
collection of crag fossils in England, and it is doubtful whether
it can be equalled in any of our great public museums.
5. A fine series of plant remains from the miocene beds
of Bovey, Tracey and Antrim, which, with similar lacustrine
deposits in Mull, are the only formations of mid-tertiary age
in the British Isles. The animal life of the period is illustrated
by a collection of shells from the neighbourhood of
Bordeaux and Cannes in the South of France. 6. A large
collection of eocene fossils in a beautiful state of preservation,,
and in which the several sub-divisions of the deposits of that
period in England are fully represented. 7. An extensive

51
assemblage of fossils from the chalk, greensand, Gault,
Neocomian and Wealden. Many of the siiicified forms are
shown in beautifully polished sections. 8. A very large and
valuable series of Jurassic forms. 9. All the British Palaeozoic
formations are well represented, especially the, carboniferous
limestone of Yorkshire in the neighbourhood of Settle, of
whose fossils there is a fine collection (upwards of two
hundred species). An invaluable feature from a scientific
point of view in Mr. Eeed's collection is the great care which
has been taken to indicate the exact locality from which the
several specimens have been obtained, so that thorough
reliance may be placed in them as geological data."
There is also a large collection of Yorkshire fossils
found in Elirkdale Cave— the gigantic fossil Irish elk, the
"Rudston" collection of British birds, numerous Roman,
Saxon, and other coins, an old mortar (1308), once belonging
to the adjoining abbey, &c., &c., full catalogue of which may
be obtained at the lodge.
On the plot of ground occupied by this building, the residence
of the Lords President of the North was erected in
Henry VIII. 's time.
At the further end of the grounds are the picturesque
ruins of
ST.
MARY'S ABBEY,
in a good state of preservation, though only small in extent.
It was a Benedictine monastery, founded in 1078 by
Stephen, a monk from Whitby, who having obtained,
through the patronage of Alan, Earl of Richmond, the
Church of St. Olave, with four acres of land, built thereon
the Abbey of St. Mary's, which was partially destroyed by
fire in the reign of King Stephen. In 1270, the building,
of which the present ruins are the remains, was commenced,
and completed in twenty-four years. The Mitred Abbot
was one of the great dignitaries of the land, had a seat in
Parliament, which entitled him to be addressed as My
Lord," possessed several country houses, and a residence in
London. His retinue when he travelled was always exceedingly
numerous. At the dissolution this abbey was taken
possession of by the Crown, condemned as useless, and was
partially pulled down to furnish materials for the building

52
of the King's Manor and the residence for the Lords President
of the North.
It was further desecrated and despoiled in order to repair
the Church of St. Olave, the City Jail, the Castle, and Beverley
Minster ;
it is • even said that a kiln was erected to convert
the stone into lime. Its destruction would have been
complete, but for the timely intervention of the Yorkshire
Philosophical Society, who obtained a grant of land from the
Crown for their museum and ground which included the
remains of this once splendid and venerable pile. The ruins
now consist of the north wall of the nave, with a portion of
the west front, the bases of several pillars, and of the four
central piers that supported the tower. The wall has eight
windows of the Decorated period, varied alternately in
design, with indications of the beautiful tracery that once
adorned them. A panelled arcade of pointed arches runs
underneath the windows. The full length was 371 feet
by 60 wide. The ruins are beautiful in their decay, and are
most religiously cared for by the society which owns the
ground.
Walking towards the river, on the northern or Marygate
side of the grounds, we find an old Norman arch, with
building attached This seems to have been the principal
entrance to the Abbey. The ground floor of this gatehouse
was formerly used as a prison for debtors in the liberties of
St. Mary's, the court being held by the Steward in the upper
story. It was some years ago thoroughly restored and
raade into a dwelling-house, Professor Phillips, late curator,
being its first occupant.
Here it may not be amiss to draw attention to the Abbey
Walls and the history of their erection. In 1282 the monks
and citizens appear to have not been on the best of terms
with each other; for, in the Annals of the Convent, we read
that, in consequence of sundry disputes, several of the
inmates of the Abbey were slain and much property
destroyed. The ill-feeling being only partly appeased, the
monks obtained permission from the King to build walls on
each unprotected side. The remains of these walls, which
were constructed as regular fortifications, with towers at
certain distances, may still be seen behind the houses from
Bootham Bar to Marygate Tower, at the corner of that

53
street, and thence down to the river, terminating in the
west tower. In
MAEYGATE TOWER
were stored all the records of the Abbey, the ancient
writings of all similar houses north of the Trent at the dissolution,
as well as some of the royal records of Chancery.
On Trinity Sunday, 1644, during the siege of York, this
tower was blown up, many of the records destroyed, and
numbers of people buried in the ruins. Nearer to the river is
THE HOSPITIUM,
the ground floor of which is supposed to have been the
Refectory, the upper the Dormitory for the accommodation
of such guests as could not be received in the main building
of the Abbey. The lower part is of stone, the upper (a
modern restoration) is of timber and plaster work, or
"post and pane," as it is usually termed. It is now stored
with British, Roman, and Saxon remains, Egyptian antiquities,
and Samian ware. There are very perfect examples
of tesselated pavement found in or near the city, and probably
the most unique collection of ancient coffins in the
world. In a glass case is also shewn a coil of hair from the
head of a young Roman lady, fastened with jet pins, which
was found preserved in a lead coffin enclosed within another
of stone, and dating from about the year 200 after Christ.
Adjoining the Hospitium, on the south, is a Norman arch,
one of the entrances to the old Abbey grounds.
The gardens are tastefully laid out, the green sward
sloping down to the river always beautifully kept, and here
and there are strewn about various objects of interest.
THE OBSERVATORY,
A small building in the centre, with circular roof by
Smeaton, the great engineer, possesses a refracting telescope
4J inches in diameter, presented the late by W. Gray, Esq.
Occasionally during the summer season a selection of
music is performed, the grounds affording a pleasant promenade
much appreciated by the citizens.
Admission : either by members' order or on pajrment of
one shilling, except when music is performed, when the fee
is only sixpence. Large parties of excursionists (if not less
than twenty) are admitted at threepence each on showing

54
tlieir railway tickets. The gates are open from ten a.m. till
dusk, and on Sundays to subscribers only. The Museum is
closed at six p.m. in summer and four in winter.
THE MANSION HOUSE,
The official residence of the Lord Mayor, is situate at
the end of Coney Street, facing St. Helen's Square. It
was erected in 1725, from designs by that noble architect,
the Earl of Burlington, and is a plain brick building,
with the city arms emblazoned on its pediment. At the
entrance, to the right is the robing-room, in which are kept
the official robes of the Lord Mayor and Aldermen, and
the original Cap of Maintenance^ given by King Eichard II.
That on the left is the dining or reception-room, where
may be seen the Sword of State, given by the Emperor
Sigismund, father-in-law of Eichard II. ; the Mace,
very large, silver gilt, and richly adorned; also a smaller
sword, given by Sir Martin Bowes, Lord Mayor of London,
which is used on ordinary occasions. A portrait of Drake,
the historian of the city, hangs over the mantel-piece.
In a safe in the butler's pantry is deposited the plate, a most
valuable collection, presented at various times by different
members of the Corporate Body.
Some of the more remarkable
pieces are '
The Lord Mayor's gold chain of office.
The official chain belonging to the Lady Mayoress ;
this
is unique, being the only one in the kingdom.
The loving cup of gold (1672).
Six large silver tankards (1673).
A massive silver gilt cup (1679).
Ascending the staircase is a fine portrait of George
Hudson, Esq., M.P., thrice Lord Mayor, and generally
known as the '^Eailway King," painted by Sir Francis
Grant, E.A., in 1848.
Opposite is Lodovick Stewart, K.G., Duke of Lennox, Lord
Chamberlain, to James L, presented in 1743 by John Mayer,
Esq., Lord Mayor.
The State-room is entered through folding doors, above
which is the orchestra, and is 50 by 28 feet. In this room
are several portraits.

55
First, on the right, is George, Prince of Wales, in the
Tobes of the Garter, presented to the city by H.R.H. in 1811,
painted by HofFner.
Second, Sir William M. Milner, Bart., M.P. for the city,
Lord Mayor in 1787 and 1798, painted by Hoffner, at the
expense of the Corporation, as a tribute of affection and
regard.
Third, Sir John Lister Kaye, Bart., M.P. for the city
(1784), Lord Mayor in 1737.
Over the fireplace is a representation of the Sword, Mace,
Cap of Maintenance, and Arms of the City.
Fourth, Robert Benson, Esq., Baron Bingley, M.P. for the
city, 1705, and Lord Mayor, 1707.
Fifth and sixth, King William III. and George II. These
two portraits were painted by Anthony Highmore, and presented
by the Marquis of Rockingham to the Rockingham
Club at York in 1757; placed in this room in 1783.
Over the fireplace are the Arms of England.
Seventh, Lord Rockingham, painted by Sir
Joshua Reynolds,
presented to the Corporation by Lord Fitzwilliam,
May, 1783.
Eighth, the Right Hon. Lord Dundas, M.P. for York, and
thrice Lord Mayor, 1822.
The paintings are all full size, and elegantly framed.
The room is lofty, and lighted with two rows of windows.
It is ornamented with fluted columns, having composite
capitals, and elaborately decorated.
Strangers are only admitted by special permission of the
Lord Mayor.
THE GUILDHALL
Is at the back of the Mansion House, and is approached
through the wide archway under that building. It was
erected in 1446 by the Mayor, Commonalty, and Members
of the Guild of St. Christopher. It is a room of Perpendicular
Gothic^ ninety-three feet by forty-three, and
twenty-nine and a half feet high. The roof is of open
timber work, supported by ten octagonal columns of oak in
two rows, each column being cut out of a single tree, thus
dividing the room into nave and two aisles. The bosses in
the roof are very fine carvings in oak, some of them originally
taken from St. Anthony's Hall. It is lighted by fourteen

56
ivindows, nine of wliicli are filled with beautifully stained
glass (the remaining five it is hoped will shortly be filled
iilso), the whole fourteen illustrating different periods of the
history of England, in which York has taken a prominent
part—of which the following is a description
First window on the left was given by Sir James Meek, Kt.,
thrice Lord Mayor, in 1856, 1865, and 1867, and illustrates the
Roman Period.
In the upper compartments of the window are— 1st, the
arms of the city of York, encircled by the Lord Mayor's
chain, and above the shield the city cap of maintenance.
2nd. The monogram (on a shield), crest, and motto of Sir
James Meek, the shield encircled with the Lord Mayor's
chain.
In the centre of
the window is represented the election of
Constantine the Great, as Emperor at York, July a.d. 306.
On the death of Constantius Chlorus, who expired at
Eboracum (York) on the 25th July, 306, his son Constantine
was immediately chosen by the Eoman and British soldiery^
to succeed him in the empire of the west.
The young Prince was at once invested in the palace with
the imperial mantle of his father ; and though reluctant (it
is said), was finally induced to accept the proffered dignity
by the urgent persuasions of all present, but especially by
the influence of Eroc, a German king, who had come to
Britain as an auxiliary of Constantius.
Constantine habited in a mourning cloak is represented as
receiving the principal military and civil authorities (among
the former of whom would be the commanders of the sixth
or victorious legion so long stationed at York), who bring
him the sceptre, the golden orb, the laurel crown, and the
imperial mantle.
The young Prince, hesitating at first to take upon himseK
the burden of the empire, is beginning to yield to the persuasions
of Eroc, who urges him to grasp the sceptre without
further delay.
The portrait of Constantine has been carefully studied
from his coins in the British Museum.
In the lower compartments are introduced on each side
the Roman eagle ;
and in the middle the monogram of our
Saviour, which Constantine after his conversion adopted as a

57
device for the imperial standard. This window is from a
design by J. E. Doyle, Esq., author of "The Chronicles of
England," and was manufactured by Messrs. John Hardman
and Son, of Birmingham.
The second window was the gift of Eobt. Farrer, Esq.^
Sheriff of York in 1858—and illustrates the
Anglo Saxon Period.
King Edgar grants permission to the men of the north to
make their own laws. In the upper compartments of the
window are— 1st, the arms of the city of York surmounted by
the cap of maintenance ; and 2nd, the arms, crest, and motto
of the donor. In the centre of the window is King Edgar,
who, standing before his throne and holding the sceptre,
announces to the ecclesiastical and military chiefs of the
north his grant to them of the privilege of making or
choosing the laws for themselves. It is my will," he says,
" that the temporal laws of the Danes shall be observed
according to the best form which they can choose." .
''And I have given this permission on account of your
fidelity to me, in which you have promised always to continue.*'
"
. . . Let Earl Oslac, then, and all the host
dwelling in this earldom take care that this be observed for
the glory of God, the need of all our souls, and the tranquillity
of the people."
On the right of the king is his chancellor holding the
charter recording the commission. Next the chancellor is
Oskytel, Archbishop of York, and his attendants.
On the opposite side is Oslac, Earl of Northumbria, who
is called in the Saxon chronicle " the beloved hero," "hoary
headed," "wise and wordskilled." With him are other
northern chiefs, one of whom bears aloft the royal sword of
state.
Behind these chiefs is the dragon, the ensign of Wessex,
Edgar's principal kingdom. As Edgar abstained during
many years of his reign from wearing his crown, it has beert
omitted in this representation of him.
In the lower compartments of the window are introduced
the dragon, the raven, and the white horse, the ensigns of
Wessex, Northumbria, and Kent.
This is from the design of J. E. Doyle, Esq., and was^
made by Messrs. James Powell and Son, of London.

58
The third window was given by Eichard Audns Clark,
Esq., as a memorial of his father, Sir William Stephenson
dark, Kt., Lord Mayor in 1840, and illustrates the
Norman Period.
In the upper compartment are the arms of the City of
York, surmounted by the cap of maintenance, and encircled
by the Lord Mayor s chain ;
and in the corresponding
division, a shield containing the monogram of the donor,
over which is his crest. The subject commemorated in this window
is the meeting of the northern barons at York, in August,
1138, to concert measures for the defence of the country
against the Scots, who, under King David I., were ab-eady
in possession of the border counties. In the centre stands
Thurstan, the archbishop, who in this emergency had been
appointed lieutenant in the North by King Stephen, and who,
in spite of his age and infirmities, had greatly exerted himself
to animate the spirit of the barons and to encourage
them to make a stout resistance. He holds in his right hand
a banner (probably taken from the cathedral) which on this
occasion he entrusted to their care. To his right (in a
scarlet cloak) is William le Gros, Earl of Albemarle and
Lord of Holderness, who, as the noble of highest rank present,
is supposed to have had the nominal command of the
forces assembled. With him appears Roger de Mowbray,
who, though still a boy, had been brought to the army with
the vassals of his great estates. Next to them is Bernard de
Baliol, who commanded the small force which was all that
Stephen could spare for the defence of his northern subjects.
His hand presses the hilt of his sword as he promises his
.
best assistance. On the opposite side is Walter Espec, a
baron of very extraordinary strength and stature, who from
his long experience in the art of war, joined to a most
amiable and venerable character, was revered as a father and
obeyed as a general by the whole army." He is in the act
of extending his right hand towards the standard, which he
vows to defend. More to the front is Gilbert de Lacy of
Pontefract, placing his sword at the service of the King's
representative, and behind is William de Percy, with his
sword upraised. In the compartments below are the arms of
Albemarle, King Stephen, and De Lacy.

59
It is the work of J. B. Capronnier, of Brussels, and is from
the design of J. E. Doyle, Esq., of London, author of the
Chronicles of England."
The fourth window was given by Alderman Thomas
Cabry, sheriff in 1861, and is illustrative of the
Plantagenet Period (1298).
In the upper part are, on one side, the arms of the City
of York, surmounted by the cap of maintenance ;
and, on
the other, the monogram on a shield, the device and
the motto of the donor. The event commemorated is the
confirmation of the Great Charter in a parliament held at
York, on January 15th, 1298, in the reign of King Edward
the First. The English authority having been recently overthrown
in Scotland, the king, who was abroad at the time,
engaged in war with France, summoned a parliament to
meet at York under the Earl of Surrey, his lieutenant in the
North, in order to provide for the subjugation of the Scots.
The Parliament met on the morrow of St Hilary, and immediately
resolved that the confirmation of the Great and
Forest Charters which had been, in the previous November,
wrung from the king, should be ratified and published anew.
Accordingly, the parliament having met in the Cathedral
Church, the Bishop of Carlisle (the see of York being then
vacant), standing in full pontificals between the Constable
and Marshal of England, read to the assembly the Great
Charter with the newly added articles (among which was
the celebrated statute, De Tallagio non concedendo)^ and
then pronounced sentence of excommunication against all
those who should violate the same. It is the moment after
the conclusion of this ceremony which furnishes the subject
depicted in this window. On the left is John de Halton,
Bishop of Carlisle, who, after having performed his solemn
function, still holds in his hands the Charter, and looks to
the representative of the king for his public assent to what
has been done. Behind the bishop are Humphrey de Bohun,
Earl of Hereford, the Constable, and Eichard Bigod, Earl of
Norfolk, the Marshal of England, two noblemen who by
their firmness at this period greatly aided in securing and
extending the liberties of their country. In the centre is
John de Warrenne, Earl of Surrey, guardian of Scotland,
and lieutenant in the North, who, in the kings name,

60
ratifies the confirmation of the Charters. To the right are
the Earls of Gloucester and Arundel, with Henry de Percyrepresenting
the barons. Behind them stand a serjeant-atlaw,
and a serjeant-at-arms with his mace. In the lower
compartments are the arms of Bigod (left) ; Warrenne
(centre) ;
and De Bohun (right). This window was designed
by Mr. Doyle, and made by Mr. Wailes, of Newcastle-on-Tyne.
The fifth window was presented by Mr. Alderman William
Walker, Lord Mayor in 1872, and is also illustrative of the
Plantagenet Period (1319),
the description of which may be premised by the following
short historical account:— ''In the autumn of the
year 1319, King Edward the Second was engaged with
the chief military forces of England in the attempt to
recover the town of Berwick, which had lately been taken
by Eobert Bruce. In order to draw the English off from
their enterprise, an army of 15,000 Scots, under two
of their best generals, Randolph and Douglas, made a dash
by way of the western borders into Yorkshire, and ravaged
the country without stint or mercy, up to the gates of York
itself. In this emergency William de Melton, the Archbishop,
and John de Hotham, Chancellor of England who was then
in the city, summoned every available man to arms, and in a
short time a considerable force, including some hundreds of
ecclesiastics, came to unite with the citizens of York, who
had arrayed themselves under the command of the Mayor.
*
The people of York,' says Walsingham, considering ' the
enormities perpetrated by the Scots, and general indignation
being excited, 10,000 Englishmen assembled and went forth
to avenge the slaughter of their fellow-citizens and countrymen.'
Nicholas Fleming, Mayor of York, seems to have been
the chief layman in command of the whole force, but the
Archbishop and Chancellor accompanied it ; and he, perhaps,
carried away by the popular feeling of indignation, led his
men out of the city, and marched straight in search of the
enemy. Hurrying forward, however, without due military
precautions, this brave but rash multitude was taken at every
possible disadvantage by the veteran Scottish army, at Mittonon-the-Swale
(now Myton), and completely defeated with
great slaughter, the Mayor and 300 priests being among the
victims of their patriotic ardour. Such was the historic event

61
Avhich furnished the incident commemorated in this window,
namely, the departure of Nicholas Fleming and his fellow
citizens for the field.
In the upper lights of the window are two shields, one
containing the arms of the City of York; the other the
monogram of William Walker, Esq., and each surrounded
hy the Lord Mayor's chain. In the middle portion is
seen Nicholas Fleming and the armed citizens ready to
commence their march against the enemy. The Mayor holds
in his right hand the baton of military command, while his
left grasps the hilt of his sword. Behind him, to his right,
is the banner bearer of the city, presumably a professional
soldier of knightly rank, the Barons Fitzwalter having held
the corresponding office in London. The banner itself has
only the red cross of St. George, which represents the flag of
England of that time. Behind the Mayor is a page carrying
his shield, which is diapered only, and without heraldic
bearings, though Fleming may very likely have been entitled
to them. To his left is the alderman who has taken charge
of the city for the time, and one of his brethren, who is
too old for warfare ; both are wishing the Mayor God
'
speed ! ' To his right, and also behind the figures already
mentioned, are the citizens, in full military equipment, waiting
only for the word to march. In the lowest compartments
are the shields of Sir Simon Warde, Sheriff of Yorkshire, King
Edward II., and of England or St. George." It is the work
of Capronnier, of Brussels, after a design by Mr. Doyle.
The sixth window was erected by public subscription, in
memory of William Fox Clark, Esq., twice lord mayor (1862
and 1863), and is illustrative of a still later event of the
Plantagenet Period (1328).
" In the highest light of the window is introduced
the White Swan, a favourite badge of King Edward
III. In the compartment immediately below, to the left
of the spectator, is the shield of the arms of the
city of York, surmounted by the cap of maintenance ; as in
the windows already placed on this side of the hall. In the
corresponding compartment is the monogram on a shield,
and the crest of Mr. Clark. The above and other lesser
lights in the tracery are filled with a foliage of oak leaves.
The subject commemorated in this window is the marriage

62
of King Edward III. and Philippa of
Hainault in the Cathedral
at York, on the 24th of January, 1328. The subject
occupies the principal portion of the four chief lights of the
window. In the right centre stand the young king and his
bride, to whom the archbishop, William de Melton, is giving
the nuptial benediction. Behind the king is his mother, the
Queen Dowager Isabel of France. About the archbishop
appear some of his clergy and other attendants. In the
compartment to the left is Nicholas de Langton, who in 1328
was for the seventh time mayor of York. He bears a silver
mace, and wears a red cloak lined with brown fur, over the
parti- coloured robe which was characteristic of the time.
Behind him are two of his brethren in office, his chaplain,
and another of the clergy. In the right compartment the
chief figure is that of Henry Earl of Lancaster and Leicester,
the king's cousin and guardian, who was also president of
the council. He bears the royal crown. Beyond him, with
the sword of state, stands Eoger, Lord Mortimer of Wigmore,
the absolute ruler for the time of England. The other
persons are, the chief lady in waiting on the bride ; and the
steward and chamberlain of the king's household, John de
Eos and Gilbert Talbot. In the compartments below are
the shields (commencing on the left) of De Melton, England,
Hainault, and Sir John Darcy, the high sheriff of Yorkshire
in 1328. In the corners are repeated another badge of King
Edward III., the stock of a tree couped and ' eradicated,* an
allusion to the royal manor of Woodstock." It is from the
design of Mr. Doyle, and was made by Messrs. Hardman, of
Birmingham.
This completes the south side. The seventh window over
the seat of justice, was erected by public subscription in
memory of Mr. Alderman James Meek, three times Lord
Mayor, in 1837, 1849, and 1851, and is also illustrative of the
Plantagenet Period (1396),
King Eichard 11. and William de Selby. The fact here
prominently represented is the granting of the Charter
by Eichard II. on the 18th May, 1396. His Majesty
confirmed by this act all the former charters, rights, and
privileges of the city, and formed it into a county by
itself by the style of "the County of the City of
York,'' gi^'ing the citizens the power to elect two sheriffs

63
instead of three bailiffs, as was theretofore the case. The
centre light contains a full length figure of Eichard II., his
left-hand resting on the mace, and in his right, the sword which
he is in the act of presenting. He is in armour, with a
white surcoat and blue mantle lined with fawn, which were
his colours proper. He has no beard, thus agreeing with
the portraits that have been taken of him. On the king's
right is William de Selby, first Lord Mayor, who has just received
the sword. On his left is Sir William Frost, Kt.,
Lord Mayor in 1396-7, when the Great Charter of the city
was granted, which he holds in his hand. On the extreme
right and left are John Moreton and Thomas Howden, the
first two sheriffs of the city. All the figures are represented
in the official costume of the period. In the tracery are the
arms of Eichard 11. , with the crown, crest, cypher, cognisance,
and supporters ; the arms of the city of York, backed
by the sword and mace, and surmounted by the cap of
maintenance ; and the city arms as before impaled with those
of the late Alderman Meek as Lord Mayor. In the lower
part of the window are the arms of Thomas Arundel, Archbishop
of York, translated to Canterbury the same year
John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, third son of Edward III.
Edward, fourth son of the same monarch, and first Duke of
York ;
Eichard, Earl of Arundel ; and Thomas de Mowbray,
Earl of Nottingham, Marshal of England, afterwards Duke of
Norfolk, five witnesses to the Great :— Charter. At the foot is
placed the following inscription " This window, illustrative
of the historic period when King Eichard II. gave to
the mayoralty of York its dignity, and to the city its Great
Charter, constituting it a county and creating its two sheriffs,
was raised as a testmiony of the great worth of James Meek,
Esq., a magistrate and alderman, and thrice Lord Mayor, who
died on the 13th day of December, 1862, aged 72 years, and
who was ever zealous in the maintenance of its ancient
rights and municipal privileges." The window was designed
by the late Mr. Frederick Bell, of this city, architect, and
executed by Messrs. Hardman and Co., of Birmingham.
The next two windows (north side) are at present filled
with plain glass, but following out the proposed scheme it is
intended that the eighth window should illustrate the

Lancastrian Period.
King Henry V. and Ms bride Katherine of France received at
York by the Lord Mayor, John de Bedale, and the citizens (1421).
The ninth window the
Yorkist Period.
King Edward IV. assumes the badge of the house of Lancaster
in order to induce the Lord Mayor, John de Gisbume, and citizens
to allow him free passage through the city (1471).
The tenth window, given by Mrs. Emma Walker, wife of
Mr. Alderman William Walker, in memory of her late father,
Mr. Alderman Weatherley, who was City Sheriff in 1864 and
Lord Mayor in 1868, illustrates the
Tudor Period.
King Henry VII. Knights William Todd, Lord Mayor of
York, and Alderman Eichard Yorke, M.P. for the City, in
recognition of the loyalty of the citizens during the rebellion
of Lambert Simnel (31st July, 1487).
In the centre is the King, holding the sword, and calling
on the Lord Mayor and the Alderman to come forward that
they may receive the honour intended. He is supposed to
have been previously expressing his thanks to the Corporation,
which has waited upon him. Behind him are two pages, in
the Tudor colours, white and green.
To the King's right are the Lord Mayor, Alderman Yorke,
and other Aldermen ; also John Vavasour, Esq., the Recorder
(nearest to the throne, and head only seen). These are supposed
to be the foremost of a numerous deputation.
To the King's left are John Rotherham, the Archbishop,
who had formerly been (1474-1488) Lord Chancellor, and
who was probably Henry's host in July, 1487 ;
Henry Percy,
Earl of Northumberland, Lieutenant General of the North,
who, in that capacity, would carry the sword of state before
the King, which he is supposed to have just placed in the
Sovereign's hand, but still holds in his own grasp the scabbard
thereof ;
and, behind him. Sir William Stanley, K.G., Chamberlain
of the Household, the same who placed the crown on
Henry's head after the battle of Bosworth.
In the upper compartments are the shields of the City of
York and of Alderman Weatherley, each encircled by the
Lord Mayor's chain.

65
In the lower compartments are the shields of— 1, Yorke ;
:2, Henry VII.; and, 3, Percy.
The eleventh window the
Stuart Period.
King James I., on Ms accession to the crown of England, welcomed
at York by the Lord Mayor j Kobert Walter, and his brethren
(April 16, 1603).
The twelfth window was given by W. B. Eichardson, Esq.,
in memory of his father, the late Mr. Alderman William
Eichardson, Lord Mayor in 1846, and marks the
Stuart Period.
The subject illustrated in this window is the declaration
made by King Charles the First to the peers and others assembled
at York, on June 13th, 1642.
The king said that " he would not require or exact any
obedience from them but what should be warranted by the
known law of the land ;" and finally, that " he would defend
the lawful liberties of the subjects of England and just
privileges of all the three estates of Parliament ; and would
require no further obedience from them than as accordingly
he should perform the same."
This was the programme of Falkland, Hyde, and the constitutional
royalists ; and no celebration of obsoleted princi •
pies is here in question.
The persons represented—commencing from the left-—
are :
1.—Edward Hyde, Esq., M.P., who was a chief adviser of
the king at this time, though he had as yet declined
office. He is best known by the title, which he obtained
after the Eestoration, of Earl of Clarendon.
2.—Edward, Lord Lyttleton, Lord Keeper of the Great Seal.
3.—Lucius Carey, Viscount Falkland, Secretary of State.
In the centre compartment is the King in his robes,
holding in his hand the declaration.
Behind him is the Prince of Wales, afterwards Charles IL
In the right compartment, are :
-1.—Eobert Bertie, Earl of Lindsay, K.G., Lord Great
Chamberlain of England, soon afterwards made Commander-in-chief
of the royal army. This veteran soldier
represents the old-fashioned military element of the
F

66
king's party, and also tlie great feudal officials who
naturally supported the monarchy. He holds the white
rod of his office.
2.—James Stuart, Duke of Richmond, K.G., Lord Steward
of the Household, holding the sword of State. He
once said that he did not want office or favour to make
him loyal ; and he was one of the four noblemen who
carried the King's body to the grave at Windsor. He
is the type of the chivalrous, disinterested royalist of
that time.
3.—William Seymour, Marquis of Hertford, Knight of the
Bath, Governor to the Prince of Wales, a religious,
peaceful, scholarly man, another type of the best kind
of royalist. He also helped to bear the King's body to
the grave.
4.—The face partially seen is that of Edward Sackville,
Earl of Dorset, K.G., Chamberlain to the Queen. He
represents the better kind of courtier and cavalier.
In the upper compartments are the arms of York, and of
Mr. Richardson, both surmounted with the Mayor's chain.
In the lower spaces are the arms of Lord Clarendon, on
the left, the King (centre), and Lord Falkland on the right.
It is from a design by J. E. Doyle, Esq., and was manufactured
by J. B. Capronnier, of
Brussels.
The thirteenth window is plain, but the scheme intends
that this should illustrate the time of
The Commonwealth.
Thus—Oliver Cromwell, on his way to command the army in
Scotland, entertained at York hy the Lord Mayor, William Taylor
(July 5th, 1650).
This completes the north side.
The fourteenth window is over the entrance doorway, and
was presented in 1866 by George Leeman, Esq., M.P. for the
city, and thrice Lord Mayor in 1854, 1861, and 1871; it
illustrates the House of Hanover, or
Victorian Period.
This window is one of five lights, and is commemorative of
the meeting of mayors in the city in 1850, preliminary to
the great Exhibition in London the following year. In the
centre is the figure of Mr. Alderman Seymour, who was Lord
Mayor of York at that time. On the right is a representation

67
of the late Prince Consort standing in the act of addressing
the assembled mayors at the great banquet at the Guildhall.
The other figures in the window are those of Archbishop
Musgrave, the Lord Mayor of London, Earl Eussell, the Earl
of Carlisle, Earl Granville, the Lord Provost of Edinburgh,
the Lord Mayor of Dublin, and the Mayors of Manchester and
Cork, with the insignia of office, swords and maces. Below
these figures are the arms of the Prince Consort, the cityarms,
impaled with those of Mr. Seymour, the Lord Mayor,
the arms of London, and those of eight of the most important
places in England. In the tracery are the arms of the
principal nations of the world which took part in the great
Exhibition of 1851. It was furnished by Messrs. Hardman
and Co., of Birmingham, in accordance with the design of J.
E. Doyle, Esq., London.
We may remark that the figures in the whole of these
windows are accurate portraits, so far as could possibly be
obtained, and are also correct delineations of the style of
dress of the different eras. The handling of some of the
subjects is most artistic, particularly the third window, and
reflects alike the highest credit upon the ability of the
designer and the skill of the manufacturer.
The large bell, hung on the north side, was taken at the
storming of Rangoon, in 1852, by the 51st Light Infantry,
and by that regiment presented to the city. It is composed
of three-parts silver, weighs six cwt., and is valued at about
£2,800.
The field- piece belongs to the Volunteer Artillery, who
meet here for drill in the winter season.
The hall is used for meetings of the citizens, the City
Assizes, Quarter Sessions, County Court, and other public
business.
At the back of the hall, and overlooking the river, is the
Magistrates' -room, wherein is arranged on the walls about
three hundred flint-lock muskets. It was in this room that
the Great Council for the North held its sittings, and it was
here also that the £200,000 was paid to the Scots for their
assistance against Charles I. Beyond this, to the left, is the
City Surveyor's Office, wherein is a valuable collection of
Blue-books and patent specifications. Above is the Council
Chamber of the City.

68
In the Muniment-room are kept the City Archives and
Charters, the most ancient dating from 1155, in which
reference is made to a former Charter granted by Henry I.,
but which has not been found. The Great Charter, conferring
the rights and liberties of the citizens, given at
Westminster, is dated the 18th day of May, 1396, and is
still in existence.
ARMS AND GOVERNMENT.
The Arms of the city are Argent—a cross of St. George,
gules, five lioncels of England passant guardant. The great seal
of the city has this coat of arms between two ostrich feathers
scrolled. It is said that the five lions were added by William
the Conqueror in memory of the five commanders who
defended the city so resolutely against him.
The Government of the city is vested in the Corporation,
which consists of the Lord Mayor, twelve Aldermen,
and thirty-six Councillors. There is also a Recorder,
SheriflP, Town Clerk, and other officers. The Councillors
are elected by the citizens of the six different wards into
which the city is divided, and have the power of selecting
Aldermen, from amongst whom the Lord Mayor is chosen.
Within his own jurisdiction he takes precedence of all
persons, except the Sovereign and heir presumptive, and
on all State occasions wears a scarlet robe and massive
gold chain. The Recorder has precedence next after the
Lord Mayor; his appointment is vested in the Crown.
York returns two members to Parliament.
The Police Station is in the Fish Market, High Jubbergate,
approached from Church Street and Parliament Street.
The fire engines and escape are under the control and
management of the Chief Constable.
THE CASTLE.
In Tower Street is the entrance to York Castle, a term
at present comprising the Assize Courts, Debtors' and
Convicts' Prison, Governor's house, and Clifford's Tower.
With the exception of the last-mentioned, the different
parts are, comparatively speaking, of modern erection.
It is probable that the Romans had a magazine here for
the storage of grain. In 937 the fortress was razed

69
to tlie ground by Athelstane, lest it should be any more a
nursery of rebellion.
The part now known as Clifford's Tower (called
after its first governor) was probably the keep of the
Castle, and was built and garrisoned by William the
Conqueror in order to overawe his rebellious subjects in the
North. It remained the property of the Crown, was the
official residence of the high sheriff of the county, and during
Norman and early Plantagenet times sustained many
assaults ;
it was also the scene of the massacre of the Jews
in the time of Richard I. "When at the summit of its
greatness it was surrounded by the river Foss, and could
only be entered by two drawbridges. In the time of
Eichard III., being much out of order, it was repaired and
in part rebuilt ; but at the time of Henry VIII. was again
in a most ruinous condition, as is described by Leland. At
the beginning of the civil war (1642) it was repaired and
fortified by the Earl of Cumberland, whom Charles I. had
appointed lieutenant- general of the royal forces in the North.
He also placed above the gate the royal arms, and underneath
those of the Clifford family, sculptured in stone, with
the motto Desormais," all of which may still be seen. On
the top of the Tower a platform was constructed, upon
which were placed two culverins and a saker. It suffered
severely during the siege, and upon the surrender of the
royalists in 1644 the Castle was dismantled of its garrison
excepting Clifford's Tower, in which there still remained 60
Foot and several pieces of ordnance. In 1683 Sir John
Eeresby was made Governor by Charles II., and in the following
year, April 23rd, St. George's Day, a fire occurred,
in which the powder magazine was blown up and the interior
of the Tower burnt to ashes, leaving the walls only
standing, and in this condition it has remained ever since.
In 1825 it was purchased by the county magistrates, who
were at that time effecting improvements in the Castle ;
it is
now preserved with great care, the ground upon which it
stands being strengthened and supported by a strong wall
built round it. There is little in the interior suggestive of
the stormy times through which it has passed, the space
being taken up with neatly-arranged beds of flowers. In
the centre rises the enormous flagstaff, and in one corner is

70
the well, now dry, which formerly supplied the garrison
with water, and into which the bodies of the massacred
Jews were cast. A walnut tree, said to have been planted
by George Fox, the founder of the Quakers, whilst incarcerated
in the Castle, once grew here, but a few years ago was
struck by lightning and thrown down. A room with an
arcade of pointed arches, supposed to have been the chapel,
still exists. There are two flights of stairs leading to the
summit of the Tower, from which an extensive view may be
obtained. The cavities in the wall where the beams rested
which supported the first storey are still distinctly visible.
In 1 708 the other towers of the Castle, which had been used
as a county prison, were taken down, and the pile of buildings
at the further end of the yard erected, the stone required
for the purpose being taken from the ruins of St.
Mary's Abbey. This is now called the Dkbtors' Prison.
On our right are the County Assize Courts, erected
in 1673, but rebuilt in 1777. The entrance is through
a portico with Ionic columns 30 feet in height, surmounted
by the royal arms, a statue of Justice, and other
emblematic figures. The Hall is divided into Nisi Prius and
Crown Courts, each thirty feet in diameter, with other
rooms for juries, counsel, and attendants. The assizes for
the North and East Ridings are held here in spring and
summer, and the Winter Gaol Delivery occasionally in December.
On the opposite side of the Castle yard is a similar
building set apart for female debtors and female prisoners on
criminal charges, in the centre of which is the chapel. Here
also, in the north-east corner, is the condemned cell, scaffold,
and graveyard for the burial of those who are executed.
Close to, and commanding a full view of all the different
parts of the prison, is the Governor's house, a neat stone
erection built in 1833. Behind this, and radiating in a
semi-circle, are the convict wards, begun in 1826, which
consist of four double buildings and eight yards attached,
with arrangements for the airing and secuiity of the prisoners.
In a small room are still preserved many morbid
curiosities, including casts of the heads of criminals executed
during the past 150 years, branding irons, thumb screws,
and Dick Turpin's leg irons and waist belt. The central
space or area enclosed by these buildings is the castle yard

71
in it the debtors are allowed to take exercise, and it is also
used as the place of nomination for the members of the
North Eiding, at which times many exciting scenes have been
witnessed. It is said to be capable of holding 40,000 persons.
Anciently the river Foss flowed quite round the
Castle walls, as well as round the keep ;
but in 1805, drawbridge,
gate towers, and rulley post were removed, and the
moat on the south side filled up. In subsequent years the
entire Castle was repaired, prison arrangements remodelled,
and the whole area surrounded by the lofty stone wall which
now exists. These improvements occupied twelve years, and
cost the county £203,530. In the Entrance Lodge are an
indictment room and record room, and every Saturday the
magistrates meet here to examine those accused of smaU
offences from the Ainsty. It is now a Government prison,
and permission to see through is only granted upon application
to the Prison Commissioners, the Home Office, who
must be satisfied that the applicant has some useful object in
view, or else that he is connected with prisons or interested
in prison discipline.
Clifford's Tovter can only be seen over by the written
introduction of a member of the Visiting Committee of
Magistrates of York Castle (for the time being), or the
former Chairman of the Visiting Justices, or of the Lord
Mayor of York. It is advisable to give 24 hours' notice,
when the Governor will forward an order fixing the hour
at which visitors will least interfere with prison duties.
Strangers having no time to wait an answer, are recommended
to apply at the gates of the Castle, between noon
and 1 p.m., when the Governor will meet their wishes, if
he can do so without breach of duty to public interests.

72
CHUEGHES.
All Saints, North-street, is of great antiquity, and was
erected at various periods and in different styles. Its plan is a
narrow nave, with chancel, north and south aisles to both, the
roofs of which are nearly of equal height; south porch,
sacristy, and tower surmounted by a lofty spire. The arches
on the north side of the chancel, with the beautiful arcade
and outer piers of the east wall are Early English (1220).
The nave, arches, and south doorway are of the time of
Henry III. (1260). The east window and aisles belong to
the Decorated i^Qviodi (1300). The chancel window (recently
restored) about 1360. The tower and elegant spire, 120 feet
high, and perhaps the north and south walls were erected
about 1420. The stained glass (14th and 15th centuries) is
considered to be of matchless beauty and interest, particularly
the figures of St. Ann and St. Christopher in the east window,
and other figures in the windows of the south aisle are said
to be unrivalled for their exquisite grace and devotion, as
well as for purity and harmony of colouring. The glass in
the east window of the north aisle dates from about 1300.
In the churchyard are several stone coffins. As a whole,
this is one of the oldest and most interesting churches in the
city. The pulpit is about 250 years old, and has carved upon
it the text— ''How shall they preach except they be sent."
It was completely restored in 1870. There are two large
bells and one sanctus bell.
All Saints, Pavement, corner of High Ousegate, is built
on a very ancient foundation; the present erection dates
from the fifteenth century, and was restored in 1835.
Perpendicular^—consists of nave, with clerestory lights, aisles,
vestry, and tower, surmounted by an octagonal lantern of
great beauty. History tells us that a lighted lamp was
formerly hung in this lantern every night, to guide the
traveller on his way through the immense forest of Galtres
towards the city. The pulpit is of oak, remarkable for
its quaintness and rich carving, and seems to have been
erected in 1634. The tower contains three large bells, and
one small prayer bell.

73
Christ Church, CoUiergate and Kings-square, formerly
called Holy Trinity, King's court, was entirely rebuilt in
1862. Decorated with portions of Perpendicular^—consists of
nave, with aisles, vestry, and tower, in which is a lighted
clock and six bells. The church is very small, and contains
observation.
nothing particularly worthy of
Holy Trinity, Goodramgate, appears to be of great
antiquity. Perpendicular, with Debased windows, three of
which have some stained glass,—consists of nave with aisles,
porch, vestry, and antiquated pews, which carry the mind
back at least a century. It has a low, picturesque-looking
tower, containing three old bells. There is a chapel, opening
from the south aisle, in which is a piscina, and also, so far
as we are aware, the only example in York of
a hagioscope
or oblique opening in the walls, to enable persons outside to
see the Elevation of the Host.
Holy Trinity, Micklegate, not far from the bar, formerly
attached to Trinity Priory, now destroyed. Mixed^— Early
Englishj Decorated^ and Perpendicular^—it consists of nave,
south aisle, western gallery, and tower, in which are two
bells. From Priory- street a south-west view of the tower,
with its Norman belfry windows, strong buttress, and pointed
arches, can be obtained. It is exceedingly picturesque, and
well worthy of notice. It is across the east window of this
church that a ghost is wont to flit, the story of which is told
by the Eev. Baring Gould, in his " Yorkshire Oddities."
St. Clement, in Clementhorpe, is a modern church in the
new district of St. Mary, Bishophill. It is a brick building
of Early Gothic design, erected in 1874, consisting of nave
and apsidal chancel, having lofty clerestory lights and open
timber roof. The capitals of the pillars are finely sculptured.
The east window is a good specimen of modern stained glass^
by Capronnier, of Brussels. There is a small turret with
one bell. The church will accommodate six hundred persons.
Across the nave and chancel, from the apices of the arches,,
wires of galvanized copper are stretched in order to prevent
the unpleasant effects produced by the echoing sound when
the church is partially filled, an experiment which has here
proved quite successful. This is the first attempt in York to
produce a well-proportioned church capable of holding a

74
large congregation at a very moderate cost, viz., £3,500, or
above £5 15s. per sitting.
St. Crux, Pavement, corner of the Shambles : Perpendicular^
with Decorated pillars ; has nave with lofty clerestory
windows and aisles. The tower of brick, in the Italian style,
was surmounted by a cupola, which, in the year 1872, was
taken down on account of its dangerous condition. The
helmet, sword, and gauntlet of the Earl of Northumberland
hang in the north-east corner of the church. He was
beheaded in 1572 on the Pavement, close to the building,
for sedition. At the east end of the south aisle is a quaint
monument to the memory of Eobert Watter, Knt., twice
Lord Mayor of this city, dated 1610. Attached to an old
wooden lectern by an iron chain is a black letter controversial
book, dated 1566, supposed by many to be an old Bible.
There is one large bell, and a small prayer bell. This
church is now closed, as it is considered to be in an unsafe
condition and unfit for public worship.
St. Cuthbert, Peaseholme-green, is said to be a very
ancient church, and to have been in existence at the time of
the Conquest. There is little, however, in its present appearance
to bear out that supposition. Late Perpendicular^ with
Debased; has nave, with timber roof of one span, western
gallery, and tower, containing two bells. In the windows
are a few specimens of early stained glass.
St. Dennis, Walmgate, consists of chancel only, with side
aisles ; the nave, together with the west end of the church
and spire, having been taken down in 1798. Mixture of
Decorated with Perpendicular^ and a Norman doorway on the
south side. The old painted glass is particularly fine, dating
from the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. In the east
window may be seen the patron saint of the church holding
his head in his hands. In the easternmost window of the
south aisle is an organ, blown by a monk with hand bellows.
Henry Percy, Earl of Northumberland, who fell at Towton
field, is interred here. There is a tradition that this church
was originally a Jewish synagogue, or tabernacle. The
tower was taken down and rebuilt, and the fabric repaired
in 1847. More recently still (18T7), an illuminated clock
has been inserted. There are three large bells, one of which
'
is cracked.

St. Helen, in St. Helen's-square, opposite the Mansion
House, built upon the site of a Roman temple, dedicated to
Diana. Decorated. The church consists of nave, aisles,
chancel, and vestry. It has but few examples of ancient
glass. There is a Norman font, with curiously sculptured
sides, dating from the eleventh century. Peculiarly placed
on an arch over the western entrance, rising above an embattled
parapet, is a small octagonal lantern, of chaste and
elegant design. There are two bells.
St. John, Micklegate, corner of North Street, Decorated^
the windows being Perpendicular^ with a few good specimens
of old stained glass. It has nave with aisles and tower,
having small turret built of timber, filled in with brick
and plaster, in which are hung six bells (three of these were
brought from the church of St. Nicholas when destroyed at
the time of the Reformation) and one sanctus bell. This
church formerly had a steeple, which was blown down in the
16th century, and has not been rebuilt.
St. Lawrence, without Walmgate Bar, has nave and
chancel with tower in dilapidated condition ;
Mixed^ chiefly
Norman^ with some windows of the Decorated period. The
north porch is a splendid specimen of a Norman doorway,
with deeply recessed mouldings. On the opposite side is a
plainer example of the same style. During the siege of York,
in 1644, this church was nearly destroyed, but was rebuilt
from the old materials in l(j6y. Just within the churchyard
are the remains of the stocks, a relic of the past, and the only
example in York. One bell. This church had, perhaps, the
most picturesque appearance of any in the city. It is now
taken down, and will shortly be replaced by one more suited
to the increasing population of the parish.
St. Margaret, Walmgate, on the north side behind some
houses nearly opposite Margaret Street, is justly celebrated
for its Norman porch, which, according to Drake, was brought
from the hospital of St. Nicholas, without Walmgate Bar, at
the dissolution of the religious houses. This remarkable porch
consists of four recessed circular arches, the outer one showing
the signs of the zodiac, with an additional one agreeing with
the thirteen months of the Anglo-Saxon calendar. Between
the signs are figures emblematic of the months. The inner
arches are also enriched with grotesque and elaborate carvings.

76
The pillars supporting the arch are covered with figures. The
doorway has also a carved arch. The church consists of nave,
north aisle, with open timber roof, porch, vestry, and brick
tower, rebuilt in 1684, in which are three large bells, and
on« sanctus bell. The style is Debased,
St. Martin, Coney-street. Late Perpendicular ; consists
of nave, with eleven clerestory windows, side aisles, porch,
and tower, in which is a peal of eight bells. The windows
contain some rare specimens of stained glass of the fifteenth
century ; the west window illustrating the life of the saint to
whom the church is dedicated. The ancient glass of the east
window was taken out about a century ago and inserted in
the Minster, the vacancy being filled with plain, which in
1872 was replaced by the present beautiful stained glass, the
gift of the Oldfields, a much-respected York family. The
design illustrates the life of the Saviour in nine compartments.
The church was thoroughly restored in 1872, and
ornamented with an elaborately carved reredos, showing the
Lord's Supper. At the east end, projecting over the pathway
in Coney Street, is a clock, with large illuminated dials, fixed
on a splendid iron spandril, erected in 1668. On it is the
figure of a man taking a solar observation with a quadrant.
The gurgoyles are particularly quaint. Next to the Minster,
this possesses the best peal of bells in the city.
St. Martin-cum-Gregory, Micklegate, opposite the end
of Eailway- street. Early English, with Perpendicular^ having
six clerestory windows ;
contains nave, side aisles, large
chancel, with aisles, vestry, porch, and tower, in which are
three large bells and one small prayer bell, also a clock with
illuminated dial. We find here some old stained glass in an
excellent state of preservation. The reredos and communion
rails are Renaissance in design. The pulpit is a quaint
specimen of woodwork, on which is carved the text, Preach
the Word in season and out of season," as well as an appropriate
one on the sounding board. On the west side of the
tower, near the ground, is a Eoman funeral sculptured tablet.
The foundation is also supposed to be Roman work.
nave, having clerestory,
St. Mart, Castlegate, consists of
with north and south aisles, chancel, with north aisle or chapel,
and tower, surmounted by a lofty spire of 154 feet, the
highest in the city. The prevailing style is Perpendicular

77
but internally portions of Norman and Early English work
xemain. It is of very early foundation, and is mentioned
thus in Doomsday Book— " Wil de Perci hath the church
of St. Mary." Drake, the historian, says that it is an
ancient rectory of Medieties, belonging to the Earls of
JsTorthumberland and the priory of Kirkham, till both were
consolidated into one rectory about 1400. Underneath
the west window in the north aisle of the nave is a squareheaded
window composed of five lights ; also a blocked-up
doorway, probably leading to the cell of an Anchorite.
In the chancel is a sedilia of three recesses and piscina,
^Iso a stone reredos. In 1870, by the munificence of Dean
Duncombe, this church was thoroughly renovated, repewed,
and newly decorated; the parishioners and others, as an
abiding .testimony of their gratitude, put in the beautiful
east window, representing the nativity of our Blessed Lord.
The grounds surrounding the church, which is daily open
from sunrise to sunset, are tastefully laid out, and furnished
with seats. In the tower are three large bells and one mass
bell. The dedication stone, or a part of it, was discovered
during the restoration, and is now carefully preserved in a
glass case placed against a pillar on the north side of the
chancel aisle. It is now, perhaps, the finest and most
complete parish church in the city. The foundations of the
sacristy still remain on the south side of the chancel, in
which is a doorway formerly leading thereto, but which is
now blocked up.
St. Mary, Bishophill Junior, is near the junction of
Trinity, St. Martin's, and Fetter Lanes. Norman^ with
portions of Decorated. Consists of nave with aisles, chancel
with north aisle, porch, and low tower. The latter is of very
great antiquity, the lower part probably Eoman masonry,
shewing in the upper portions herring-bone work, with undoubtedly
Saxon windows. It is well known to archaeologists
and students of architecture. There are two ancient
bells.
St. Mary, Bishophill Senior, not far from the church
above mentioned, is a very ancient structure. Early English
and Decorated. It has nave, north aisle, porch, and
low tower built partly of brick in 1639, containing a peal of
six bells.

78
St. Maurice, just without Monk Bar, at the foot of Lord
Mayor's Walk, is built on the site of a very old church, has
accommodation for over 600 persons, and was opened in 1878.
It consists of nave, aisles, chancel, south transept, and lofty
tower, containing two bells. Early English in style, with
portions of Decorated. There is a large quantity of carving
on the capitals of the columns, bosses, pulpit, &c., and also
an elaborate reredos. An alms dish and altar cloth of the
time of Queen Mary may be seen in the vestry.
St. Michael-le-Belfry, High Petergate, close to the
south side of the Minster, derives its name from its contiguity
to the belfry of the Cathedral. Florid^ or Late Perpendicular^
of which it is a good example, erected 1545 : the west
front is well worth noticing. The church consists of nave,
with clerestory lights, aisles, vestry, and small octagonal
turret, containing one bell. The baptismal register of the
notorious ^'Guye Fauxe, 16 April, 1570" (as it is written in
Old English characters), is preserved here. On the wall at
the east end is a tablet to the memory of Thomas Gent, the
eccentric historian and printer, who is buried in this church.
The windows contain some rare specimens of .stained glass,
mostly of the time of Henry VIII. The reredos and communion
rails are very massive. Renaissance in design. A
sermon is preached annually in this church on Good Friday,
for the benefit of the Blue Coat Boys' and Grey Coat Girls^
Charity Schools.
St. Michael, corner of Spurriergate and Low Ousegate.
Early Perpendicular ; consists of nave, aisles, and tower, with
six bells. Some of the windows contain good specimens of
old stained glass. The reredos and communion rails are of
massive Renaissance design. This is one of the very few
churches in the kingdom in which the curfew bell is still
tolled (8 p.m.) daily; a bell is also rung at six o'clock every
morning in the week, except Sunday, immediately after
which another bell chimes the number of the day of the
month.
St. Olave, in Marygate, close to one of the entrances of
the Museum grounds. Florid, or Late Perpendicular ; has
nave, aisles, and tower, in which are six bells. This church
during the siege of York in 1644, the
was nearly destroyed
Parliamentarians having placed a battery of guns on the roof.

79
It was afterwards rebuilt with stone taken from the ruins of
St. Mary's Abbey. Siward, Earl of Northumberland, tha
founder of the church, was iDuried here in 1055. The tomb
of Etty, the artist, may be seen in the churchyard. The
windows contain some fragments of old stained glass,
St. Paul, in Holgate Koad, close to the railway bridge,
was erected in 1851, has nave with side aisles, and is in the
Early English style ; has one bell.
St. Sampson, Church Street, is the only church in England
dedicated to this saint. Mostly Perpendicular;—consists
of nave with aisles, modern chancel, vestry, and low towers
containing one large and one small bell. During the siege of
the city in 1644 the tower was so shattered by cannon shots
of the Parliamentarian army that it was soon after reduced
to its present height, and has not since been restored.
St. Saviour, in St. Saviourgate, corner of Hungate, consists
of nave, with aisles, vestry, and low tower; contains
one large and one sanctus bell. Mostly Perpendicular^ with
Debased windows, that in the east containing old stained
glass. In this church are buried Sir John and Lady Hewley,
founders of the alms-houses adjoining the churchyard, and
well known for other acts of liberality.
St. Thomas, Lowther-street, The Groves. Early English;
was built in 1854; contains nave, transepts, and chancel,
with open timber roof and small turret, having two bells.
St. Andrews, between St. Andrewgate and Spen-lane.
During the past century and a half this barn-like building
has been entirely disused as a place of worship, and, according
to Drake, was used partly as a stable and dwelling-house
in his time. In more recent years it has been used as schoolroom,
meeting-room, and for various other local purposes.
Bedern Chapel. (See page 43).

80
CHAPELS-
BAPTIST CHAPEL, in Priory Street, is a Gothic buHding,
with tower ; was erected in 1868 at a cost of about £6,000,
and will seat 700.
CATHOLIC APOSTOLIC CHURCH Mission Eoom is in
Aldwark, immediately at the back of Salem Chapel.
INDEPENDENT.—Lendal Chapel, in Lendal, a plain
brick building, erected in 1816; will seat 1,300. It was here
the Eev. James Parsons commenced his pastorate in York.
Salem Chapel, at the end of St. Saviourgate, a large
square building having a bold front facing the same street.
It has a fine elevated portico, with Ionic pillars of stone and
pediment; was erected in 1839 for the Eev. James Parsons,
who officiated here for over thirty years. It will hold about
1,600 persons.
PEIMITIYE METHODIST. — Ebenezer Chapel, in
Little Stonegate, was erected in 1851 ; will seat about 700.
Nunnery Lane Mission House, erected in 1864; will
seat near 400.
Heslington Eoad Chapel, in Apollo Street, erected in
1868; will seat nearly 300.
Layerthorpe Chapel, in Duke of York Street; will
seat 250.
Victoria Bar Chapel, Bishophill. Eenaissance in style
of red and wliite brick, was erected in 1879 at a cost of
£2,700 ;
will seat 900 persons.
FEIENDS' OE QUAKEES' MEETING HOUSE, in
Friargate, Castlegate ; consists of two buildings ; the first
was erected in 1673 and the latter in 1816, and will seat
1000 persons.
EOMAN CATHOLIC—St. Wilfrid, pro-Cathedral
Church in Duncombe Street, built in 1864. Early English;
—consists of nave, aisles, chancel with apse, side chapels, and
ornamental tower. The principal entrance is through a very
ornate doorway, above which is a figure of the patron saint. In
the chancel is some elaborate carving, including nine heads of
the patriarchs, life size. On the front of the altar is a representation
of The Entombment of Our Saviour. Some of the
windows contain good specimens of modern stained glass.

81
In the sanctuary are three large pictures, representing The
Crucifixion, Eesurrection, and Ascension, from the Munich
School of Painting.
St. George's Chapel, in George Street, Walmgate,
Decorated, consists of nave, aisles, chancel and side chapels,
was erected in 1850. In the rear are large schools attached
to the chapel.
St. Mary's Convent, of the Institute of the Blessed
Virgin Mary, was established in the reign of Charles
II., 1680, for the education of young ladies, and has
carried on the work of upper education from that time until
the present day. The house is situated outside Micklegate
Bar, in one of the most salubrious and genteel suburbs of the
city. From the spacious grounds attached there is easy access
to the country. The old convent has gradually given place
to a more modern and very extensive building, which has
been much improved of late by valuable additions in the
school department. There is also a day school in connection
with this establishment.
Convent of the Sisters of Charity of St. Paul's
at No 2, St. John Street, Lord Mayor's Walk, consists of
nuns who are trained and skilled in the art of teaching,
and who devote their lives to that service in the public
schools connected with their religion.
Poor Clare Abbey (commonly miscalled the Poor Clares
Convent) stands on the right hand side of Lawrence Street,
about a quarter of a mile from Walmgate Bar. It is an
extensive and massive building, erected 1872-78, in the
severe Gothic style of architecture. The plan is a quadrangle,
one side being formed by the chapel and choir ; the
front chiefly by parlours, the other two sides by chapter and
workrooms, novitiate, refectory, infirmary, &c. Connected
with the main building by a corridor is the residence of the
Lay Sisters. It is further intended to build a chaplain's
house close to the present entrance gates. The community
of Poor Clare Abbey belongs to one of the strictest contemplative
orders, that of the Poor Clares Colettines. On their
first arrival in York, 1865, they took up their residence in
Plantation House, Hull Eoad, from which they removed to
their present house in 1872. There are fifteen choir
sisters, including the Lady Abbess, and five lay sisters. The
Q

'
Pilgrim
82
choir sisters are entirely shut out from the outer world by
what is termed the Inclosure. They are never allowed to go
out, nor is anybody allowed to go amongst them ; all communications
are held through an iron grating in the parlour.
The services in the chapel are public ; Mass every morning
at 7 ;
Benediction on Sunday and Wednesday afternoons at
4.30. Visitors are admitted to the parlour from 9 to 12,
and from 1 to 3, Sundays and holidays excepted.
SWEDENBOEGIAN, OR MEMBERS OF THE CHURCH
OF NEW JERUSALEM.—Meeting Room in a yard 13,
St.
Saviourgate, next the Institute.
UNITARIAN CHAPEL, in St. Saviourgate, is an
exceedingly plain and unpretending building, and is
cruciform in plan. It was erected in 1692, and wiU seat
2 5 persons. The Rev. Charles Wellbeloved, a celebrated
antiquary and historian, was minister here for over fifty
years. A schoolroom in connection with the above was
erected in 1878, and is in Spen Lane, immediately behind
the chapel.
UNITED, OR PLYMOUTH BRETHREN. — Small
Meeting House in Webster's Passage, St. Saviourgate, opposite
the church.
WESLEYAN METHODIST CHAPELS.—New Street
Chapkl, the oldest in the city, a very plain square brick
building, erected in 1805 ; will hold 800 persons.
Centenary Chapel, in St. Saviourgate, a large building
of brick, with stone portico ; the pediment is supported on
Ionic ])illars. It was opened in 1840 to commemorate the
€entennry of Wesleyan Methodism; and has seats for 1,500.
Wesley Chapel, Priory Street, is a handsome building of
brick .':nd stone in the Italian style of architecture, erected
in ISTrd at a cost of nearly £10,500; will seat 1,250.
. BOURNE Terrace Chapel, Fishergate, is a building
Me I
similar to the above (Italian), with a campanile tower, in
-which is a lighted clock ; was erected in 1877 at a cost of
£8,300 ;
will seat 850.
Street Chapel, The Groves, a small plain
buildiiig, erected in 1868 ; will hold 400 persons.
Wilton Street School Chapel, Holgate Eoad, erected
in 187:-' ;
will seat 200 ; is used both as a school-room
and pu'ce of worship.

83
WESLEYAN METHODIST FEEE CHURCH, Goodramgate,
near Monk Bar (called Monk Bar Chapel), is a substantial
brick building with stone facings, erected in 1859.
Will seat 800.
WESLEYAN NEW CONNEXION CHAPEL in Peckitt
Street, is of brick, slightly Moorish in style. Was erected in
1856 ;
and will seat 700.
ENGLISH PEESBYTEEIAN, in Priory Street, was erected
in 1880 ; is of white brick finished with stone dressings, has
a low campanile tower. The design is classic. It cost about
.£5,000, and will seat over 500 persons.
ALMSHOUSES AND HOSPITALS.
Agar's Hospital, Monkgate, founded by Alderman
"Thomas Agar,' 1631, for six poor widows.
Barstow's Hospital, Caroline Street, Nunnery Lane, for
six poor people of either sex. Of its origin and history
nothing definite is known. Eebuilt 1859.
Colton's Hospital, in Eougier Street, Tanner Row, for
•eight poor men, was founded by Dr. Colton and his wife in
1717.
Harrison's Hospital, Penley Grove Street, is a neat
stone building in the Tudor style, with chapel in the centre,
and was founded in 1845 by Mrs. Harrison for eight poor
widows.
Hewley's Hospital, St. Saviourgate, was founded by
Dame Sarah, widow of Sir John Hewley, in 1700, for ten
old women. It formerly stood in Tanner Row, but on the
building of the old Railway Station (1840) was taken down,
and the present site obtained. It consists of ten small houses,
in the Elizabethan style, situate behind the church in this
street.
Ingram's Hospital, Bootham, consists of ten brick cottages,
in the centre of which is a chapel, with curious Norman
doorway and square tower. It was founded for the maintenance
of ten poor widows by Sir Arthur Ingram, 1604.
Middleton's Hospital, Skeldergate, founded in 1659 by
Mrs. Anne Middleton for twenty poor freemen's widows.
Over the entrance door is a full-length statue of the
foundress.

84
Mason's Hospital, CoUiergate, for six poor women, is a
small almshouse, founded by Margaret Mason, 1732.
Maison Dieu, in St. Dennis Church Lane, Walmgate,.
rebuilt 1811. Much uncertainty exists as to its original
founders, but it is devoted to the use of four poor shoemakers.
Merchant Tailors' Hospital was built in 1730 by the
Merchant Tailors' Company, for the use of four poor brethren
or sisters. It is situate in Aldwark, adjoining the Company's
HaU.
St. Catherine's Hospital, Holgate Road, is of very
ancient origin, and intended for the entertainment of poor
travellers who could not pay for lodgings in the city. It is
now used for the maintenance of four poor widows, a certain
bequest being made for that purpose by Mrs, Frances
Nicholson in 1709.
St. Michael's (Spurriergate), Hospital, in Friargate, for
four poor people.
St. Thomas's Hospital, Victoria Bar, Nunnery-lane, is a
handsome building, for twelve poor widows. It was founded
by Mr. Luntley, who bequeathed £1,000 in 1791. It
formerly belonged to the Guild of Corpus Christi, and is
dedicated to the memory of St. Thomas a Beckett. The
present erection dates 1862.
Thompson's Hospital, Castlegate, founded in 1700 by
Sir Henry Thompson, for the relief of six poor men.
Trinity Hospital, Merchants' Hall, Fossgate, for five
poor men and five poor women, is under the management o£
the Merchants' Company. It is situate on the site of a
hospital founded in 1373.
Watter's Hospital, Chapel-row, George-street, Walmgate,
was founded by Sir Robert Watter in 1612; consists of.
seven cottages for as many poor women, and was rebuilt in
1844.
Wandesford's, or, as it is generally termed, "The Old
Maids' " Hospital, Bootham, was founded by Mrs. Mary
Wandesford for ten single gentlewomen, 1725. The build-^
ing is of brick, and is separated from the street by a small
grass plot. There is a chapel on the ground floor, in which
service is held every Wednesday and Friday.

85
Wilson's Hospital, Fossbridge, for ten poor women, was
founded and endowed by Mrs. Dorothy Wilson, 1717. The
j)roperty, having lately much increased in value, now affords
relief to sixteen alms-women and eight blind pensioners (nonresident).
Wintersoale's Hospital, Walmgate, founded by Mr.
Percival Winterscale in 1705, for six poor women of St.
Margaret's Parish.
Penitentiary, or Eefuge, is on Bishophill; Was first
established in 1822, and its funds liberally increased by a
.l3equest of £5,000 made by Dr. Beckwith in 1843.
MEDICAL.
COUNTY HOSPITAL,
"Monkgate, is a large and handsome structure of brick,
with stone dressings, consisting of four stories, having an
Italian elevation ;
was erected in 1850. The charity was
founded originally by Lady Elizabeth Hastings in 1740, who
left a legacy of i;500 " for the relief of the diseased
poor of the city and county of York." It is supported by
donations and annual subscriptions. There are 110 beds for
patients. The daily average number of in-patients is at prersent
77. The number of out-patients during the year is
about 4000.
DISPENSAEY,
New Street, was founded in 1788, and removed to its
present situation in 1828, at a cost of about £2000. The
number of patients attended to yearly is over 9,000.
INSTITUTION FOR DISEASES OF THE EYE,
Held in a room in Merchant Tailors' Hall, Aldwark, was
founded in 1831.
HOMOEOPATHIC DISPENSARY,
Victoria Hall, Goodramgate, was established 1851 ;
open on
Tuesdays and Saturdays.
INVALID KITCHEN, Blake Street.
INSTITUTION FOR TRAINED NURSES, No. 7, Bootham.

86
THE EETEEAT,
Heslington Eoad, was establislied 1796 for tlie use of tlie
insane members of the Society of Friends, and others in
profession with them. It stands in the midst of gardens
and pleasure grounds, on an elevated site commanding extensive
views. Since its foundation it has, on several occasions,
been enlarged, and now occupies twenty- eight acres of
land. The founders of this institution, amongst whom the
name of Samuel Tuke stands prominent, were sensible that
great abuses existed in many houses devoted to the treatment
of the insane, fear being at that time considered the great
principle by which these afflicted creatures were to be
governed. George Jepson, the first permanent superintendent,
doubting the wisdom of such a course, abandoned the
system of terror, and endeavoured during thirty years to
influence the patients through the kindly affection of the
heart, and that, too, with great success. This was the first
institution in the country in which the mild system of treatment
was adopted. The number of inmates at present is
about 150. Three-fourths of the income is derived from
payments by the patients, the remainder from annual subscriptions,
donations, legacies, and annuities.
Adjoining is the burial ground for the Society of Friends.
THE YOEK LUNATIC ASYLUM,
In Bootham, was erected by subscription, in 1777, for
the relief of the indigent poor suffering from mental
derangement, and was calculated to accommodate fiftyfour
patients, a limited number of the higher class being
subsequently admitted for the benefit of the institution.
The approach is through an avenue of lime trees nearly
a quarter of a mile in length. The front has a handsome
appearance, four pillars supporting a Doric pediment,
and on the roof is a cylindrical bell tower, surrounded
with small columns, and surmounted with cupola and vane.
The discipline for many years appears to have been of the
most rigorous kind; proper attention was not paid to the
comfort of the inmates, who were exposed to the most cruel
treatment at the hands of the keepers. In consequence of
the violent controversy caused by the publication of Samuel
Tuke's description of The Retreat, a strict investigation into

87
the government of the asylum took place, which resulted in
the dismissal of every servant and officer engaged, and the
resignation of the physician. The rules were revised, and
the whole establishment thoroughly reorganised, since which
time a more humane and gentle regime has been adopted.
Whilst the investigation was in progress a fire occurred
which destroyed one wing of the building, four of the
patients perishing in the flames. The institution has been
considerably enlarged, and has now room for two hundred
patients.
In the grounds is a handsome church, erected in 1865, which
the more convalescent patients are allowed to attend.
The management is vested in a committee of gentlemen
selected from the governors of the institution, who hold quarterly
and annual courts. A donation of £20 constitutes the
giver a life governor. In October, 1877, was celebrated the
centenary of its existence.
THE PAUPER LUNATIC ASYLUM
For the North Eiding of Yorkshire, is at Clifton, about two
miles from York. It is a very extensive pile of buildings, principally
in the Elizabethan style of architecture, and consists of
two wings, running right and left, with the Medical Superintendent's
house in the centre. It was opened in 1847, and
originally designed to accommodate 150 patients; but in 1851
and 1856 such additions were made to it that it is now capable
of domiciling between 500 and 600 patients. The buildings,
with pleasure grounds and shrubberies, occupy about fifteen
acres of land ; the garden and orchard comprise about
forty-five acres. Attached to the establishment is a farm of
about 140 acres, arable and pasture, which is worked by the
patients. There is an embankment 1,000 yards long, 30
feet wide at base, and 12 feet high, near the river, to protect
the grounds from floods. Since the opening there have
been admitted about 2,000 of each sex; the average weekly
cost for each year it has been in existence, per patient for
maintenance, including officers' salaries, attendants, nurses,
servants' wages, together with board and washing, has been
8s. 4d. The average number of patients under care during
the year is between 600 and 700. There is a church
within the grounds capable of seating 320 persons.

88
SCHOLASTIC AND LITEEAEY.
THE EOYAL SCHOOL OF ST.
PETER
Is the school of the Cathedral Church of York, founded 1557
by Queen Mary, who entrusted to the Dean and Chapter certain
lands for its endowment. It is situate in Clifton,
about half a mile from Bootham Bar. The present buildings,
in the Perpendicular style, were purchased by the Dean in 1844
from a Collegiate School started in 1838. There is a chapel
attached {Decorated) built by subscription in 1862. The
residence of the principal is adjoining the school. The
course of education is the same as in all first grade public
schools, and there is also a civil and military department, in
which boys can be prepared for the army, the medical and
legal professions, or business. There are two foundation
scholarships and two free scholarships elected annually.
One exhibitioner is elected annually, who is at liberty to
proceed to any of the University Colleges—value of the
exhibition is £50 a year. This school is one of those to
which the Lady Hastings Exhibitions at Oxford are appropriated.
AECHBISHOP HOLGATE'S SCHOOL,
A collegiate-looking building near the Gillygate end of Lord
Mayor's Walk, was founded by Archbishop Holgate in
1546 as a Free Grammar School ; the original building
was situate in Ogleforth. In 1858, upon a new scheme
of management being drawn up with special reference to
the wants of the middle classes, the present building
(then the Yeoman School) was purchased by the trustees.
It has accommodation for about 100 boarders ;
day boys
are also admitted. The fees are very moderate, and the
Archbishop of York is patron by virtue of his office.
YORK DIOCESAN TRAINING INSTITUTION,
A larger building of a similar character adjoining the above
School, was established (1846) for the preparation of masters
for parochial schools, and is under Government inspection.
There are dormitories for 70 students, who are instructed in

89
?tlie art of teaching under tlie master of the Model and
Practising School which is in connection with this college.
On certain conditions students are admitted on the small
annual payment of £5, others at £35. There is a private*
chapel attached.
BLUE COAT BOYS' SCHOOL.
-St. Anthony's Hall, formerly St. Anthony's Hospital,
Peaseholme Green, was founded by a number of citizens,
without distinction of sex, who formed themselves into
a guild (1446) dedicated to the Blessed Mary and St.
Martin the Confessor, and erected upon a site given by
Sir John Langton about 1450, for the reception of aged
,and impotent poor. This Sir John was grandson of
Sir John de Langton, nine times Mayor of York, who
lived about a century earlier. Although the building
and guild were dedicated as above mentioned the members
persisted in claiming St. Anthony as their patron, and named
their guild after him, notwithstanding the strong prohibition
against such a course contained in their charter. At the
dissolution of religious houses by Henry VIII. this institution
managed to escape, and continued through various
fortunes until 1627, when it was abolished by order of the
Corporation. During the latter 80 or 35 years of the 16th
century it was used partly as a work-house^ partly as a poorhouse,
and partly as a house of correction for the confinement
and punishment of rogues and vagabonds (1586). In
the troublous times of Charles L, this building was offered
to the Council of the North as a magazine for arms, and
stored no doubt with piles of muskets and barrels of gunj)owder.
After the battle of Marston Moor (1644) it was
converted into a hospital for sick and wounded soldiers, and
again in 1655 it became the house of correction—the only
one in the city.
In 1705 all the parts of the building not required for
jail purposes, including the great hall, were appropriated
for the accommodation of a newly formed charitable institution
called the Blue Coat Boys' School, and a century
later another prison being built the whole of the building
was devoted to the same charity. In it 70 poor boys
are now clothed, boarded, and educated, the cost being

90
defrayed by donations and public subscription. The lower
part of the building is of stone, the upper of brick, and on
the ground floor are the committee room, dining hall, kitchen
and other offices. Up stairs is the great hall (81ft. by 27ft. and
40 feet high), dormitories, &c. The open timber roof is of
bold design, and is supported upon arches springing from
pillars, each consisting of the trunk of a tree. It is ornamented
with corbels of angels bearing shields and richly
carved bosses of various devices. A fine organ was erected
on one side in 1858 by Messrs. Forster and Andrews, of Hull.
In this room is also a very valuable collection of English
birds, bequeathed in 1878 by Mr. G. Wright of this city, an
amateur taxidermist of some skill.
In glancing over the history of this building from its
foundation (1450) to the present time, one cannot help being
struck by its eventful career. There is scarcely any purpose
to which it has not been applied. Eobert Davies, the antiquary,
says—
^'
It was originally a house of religion and a
house of charity—a house of festivity and a house of business.
Thus it flourished for nearly a century and a quarter, when
it became a work-house and a poor-house ;
occasionally, a
play-house ; for many years a school of archery, and still
longer a prison-house. In time of war it was a place of
deposit for engines and materials of battle and bloodshed
and then it was converted into a house of refuge and repose
for the sick and wounded. At length, after having borne the
wear and tear, the buffets and the neglect of nearly three
centuries, this venerable structure of mediaeval times became
a house of Christian education, order, and discipline."
GEEY COAT GIELS' SCHOOL,
Monkgate, a simple, unpretending building, erected on the
site of the old school in 1869, at a cost of over £2,000,
where forty-four girls are clothed, boarded, and educated,
to fit them for domestic service. This institution was established
in 1705, and is part of the same charity, under a
committee of ladies, as the Blue Coat Boys' School.
THE YOEKSHIEE SCHOOL FOE THE BLIND,
Situate in Bootham, close to the Bar, was established in 1833
as a memorial to William Wilberforce, statesman and philanthropist,
who represented the county in Parliament for thirty

91
years. The building is of quaint Jacobean arcliitecture, in
tlie form of a quadrangle, overgrown with ivy. Above the
entrance are the arms and cypher of James I. ; and in
the dormitories are sculptured coats of arms of the Earls
of Huntington and Warwick, of Queen Elizabeth's time.
Its object is to enable blind children of both sexes to earn
their own livelihood, by giving them such instruction as shall
best tend to that end. They are taught basket, mat, and
brushmaking ; and a number of articles made by them are
always on sale. Such as have talent for music are carefully
taught, and many of them become church organists and
teachers in their turn. They are also well grounded in the
ordinary branches of an English education.
The building and its surroundings teem with memories
of olden times. It stands on the site of the house of
the Abbot of St. Mary's, and here he dispensed his princely
hospitality centuries ago. The only vestige of this palace now
remaining is the wide and heavy staircase. After the dissolution,
the Abbey was claimed by the Crown, and a splendid palace
for King Henry YHL, called the King's Manor, was erected.
Here James YI. of Scotland and his Consort were received
by Lord Burleigh, on his accession to the Crown of
England in 1603. In the time of Charles I. the Earl
of Strafford resided here for several years, and the King
himself remained one month, on his journey to the North,
and also held Parliaments here. It was a garrison for the
Eoyalist soldiers during the siege of 1644, and in the
time of the Commonwealth was tenanted by Colonel Lilburne,
one of the judges at the trial of the King. In the reign of
James II. it was very nearly becoming a Eoman Catholic
College, his Majesty having granted the use of it for thirty
years to Father Lawson, who was prevented from carrying
out his desire by the enraged citizens. It became a Eoyal
Mint in 1696-7, gold and silver coins being struck. In 1723
it passed to the De Grey family, in whose hands it remained
until 1833, when a lease was obtained by the Committee for
its present purposes.
Visitors are admitted free on every day, except Sundays.
On Thursday afternoons, at 2-30, a concert (admission sixpence)
is given by the pupils in the Music-room, which in
1878 was greatly enlarged. A fine organ is placed at one end.

92
INDUSTRIAL SCHOOL FOR BOYS,
Occupies part of the site of the old workhouse in Marygate,
established in 1848 (certified as an Industrial School
July, 1858). The present premises were built in 1875-6.
There are 120 scholars, who daily receive sound elementary
instruction and a knowledge of some handicraft. All of
them receive three meals daily, and some reside in the school.
INDUSTRIAL SCHOOL FOR GIRLS
Is at 28, Monkgate ; was originally conducted as a part of
the Certified Industrial Schools in Marygate. It was established
in the present premises on the 1st July, 1877. There
is accommodation for upwards of 30 girls, who are lodged
and fed ;
they are also carefully and thoroughly instructed
in household work, and subject to certain regulations.
HAUGHTON'S CHARITY SCHOOL
Was founded by William Haughton, originally a dancing
master in York, who retired to Coldbath Fields, Middlesex,
where he died. He left by will, proved 1773, the sum of
£1,300 to the parish of St. Crux for the edu\3ation of 20 poor
children of that parish. The school is in St. Saviourgate.
WILSON'S CHARITY SCHOOL,
On Fossbridge, was founded by Dorothy Wilson, a maiden
lady, in 1717, for the clothing and education of 50 poor boys
and 20 girls.
GOVERNMENT SCHOOL OF DESIGN,
Minster Yard (formerly St. Peter's School), stands on the site
occupied by the old Deanery, is a branch of the Department
of Practical Art, South Kensington, and was established about
1850. It is a small ecclesiastical-looking building in the Tudor
style, and possesses a good collection of casts of ornaments and
figures from the antique ;
classes are held thrice daily. It is
supported by a Government grant, the fees paid by students,
and local subscriptions, which latter are most disproportionate
to the requirements. The large oil painting, by Marsden,
of " Paul before Agrippa," formerly hung in the Guildhall,
was taken down in order to make room for Alderman
Leeman's window, and presented to the committee of this
institution by the Corporation. On the plot of ground in
iront are three guns used by the Artillery Volunteers for
drill.

93
FEIENDS' BOYS' SCHOOL
Is the very commodious building No. 20, Bootham.
FEIENDS' GIELS' SCHOOL
Is the lofty erection in the street leading from the Mount tO'
Holgate Eoad railway bridge.
GTELS' HIGH SCHOOL
Fishergate House, Fishergate, an establishment for the higher
education of girls of the middle class.
INSTITUTE OF POPULAE SCIENCE & LITEEATUEE,
St. Saviourgate, nearly opposite the church, was established in
1827, and removed here in 1846. The Library (of 6000 vols.)
is open from 7 to 9 p.m., and contains a good selection of
standard works in scientific and general knowledge, as well
as the lighter literature of the day. The reading-room is
open from 8 a.m. till 10 p.m. daily, except Sundays; and is well
supplied with the leading periodicals and daily papers. Lectures
are delivered and entertainments given weekly (on
Tuesdays, at 8 p.m.) during winter, and classes formed for
the study of art, science, language, &c. The Institute is in
union with the Society of Arts, London, and the Yorkshire
Union of Mechanics' Institutes. The number of members
averages 650.
PEIMITIVE METHODIST COLLEGE,
Elmfield, Malton Eoad, established 1864, enlarged in 1876.
Intended for the education of youths of the above persuasion,
and has accommodation for 110 pupils.
LIBEAEIES.
YOEK SUBSCEIPTION LIBEAEY,
Founded in 1794 by the Eev. Charles Welbeloved as the
York Book Society, was removed in 1836 to No. 1, St.,
Leonard's Place ; consists of about 37,000 volumes of the best
literature ;
open from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. The society is
proprietary, consisting of about three hundred members.
MINSTEE LIBEAEY,
Open on Wednesdays from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. ;
Saturdays, 2:
to 4 p.m. (See page 42.)

94
INSTITUTE LIBEAEY,
St. Saviourgate; open from 7 to 9 p.m. daily (except Sundays).
EAILWAY LIBKARY AND NEWS-ROOM,
Queen Street, near the new Railway Station
;
open from
1 to 10 p.m., except Sundays ;
contains 6,500 volumes.
CHURCH OF ENGLAND LIBRARY & READING-ROOM,
Friendly Societies' Hall, Castlegate
;
open from 9 a.m. to 10
p.m. daily, except Sundays ; contains 1,000 volumes.
YORK LAW LIBRARY,
3, Spurriergate
;
open from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m.
YOUNG MEN'S CHRISTIAN ASSOCIATION,
Was established in 1870. The rooms are at 9, High Ousegate,
where will be found a library containing about 600
volumes ;
also a reading-room, which is open daily from 9
a.m. to 10 p.m. ;
and on Sundays, from 1-30 to 5-30 p.m.,
and from 7-80 to 9-30 p.m.
MILITAEY.
THE CAVALRY BARRACKS,
Erected in 1726, enlarged 1861, are on the left hand side of
the Fulford road, and lie within the city boundary. The
buildings and grounds occupy about thirty acres. There is
accommodation for one thousand men, with ample stable room
for their horses. Commodious officers' quarters—in front of
which is a well-kept grass plot—with large mess room, face
the entrance gates. The buildings are set out on three sides
of a quadrangle, the centre being set apart as an exercise
ground for foot drill. There is a handsome Gothic Chapel
of Ease within the grounds. A few yards further on are the
INFANTRY BARRACKS,
Occupying about thirty-four acres of ground. The massive
looking building close to the road is the arsenal, and reminds
one strongly of the feudal castles in the middle ages. It is of
brick with stone dressings and towers, the whole capped by
a stone battlement, and is capable of holding six thousand
stand of arms and clothing for the same number of soldiers.
The barracks, a series of brick buildings running east and
west and facing each other, between which is the spacious

95
drill ground, afford accommodation for over eleven hundred
men, with quarters for the officers and their families. The
total cost of the buildings was about £150,000. On the
opposite side of the road, facing the cavalry barracks, is the
MILITAEY HOSPITAL,
Which has recently been considerably enlarged in order to
meet the possible requirements of both sections of the service.
If necessary, one hundred and fifty patients can be received ;
but we sincerely hope that its capabilities will never be so far
tested. The hospital and grounds cover nearly six acres. The
BRANCH WAR OFFICE
For the Northern district, necessitated by the formation of a
military centre at York, is situate at th^ angle of Melbourne
Street and Fishergate, leading towards Fulford. It is a neat
looking building of brick, in the Elizabethan style of architecture,
ornamented with stone ;
has a lofty tower and clock
with two dials. It is intended solely for military purposes,
and is furnished with suites of offices for the Assistant
Quarter-Master-General, Assistant Adjutant-General, Commanding
Officer of Royal Engineers, Medical Officer, Commanding
Officer and Adjutant of Royal Artillery, Ordnance
Committee, Commissariat Department, and various other
•officials.
MILITIA DEPOT
Of the 2nd West York Light Infantry, is in Lowther Street, The
Groves—a residence for the Adjutant, and rooms for storing
the arms of the regiment, which is about one thousand
strong, and is called up annually for driU. This regiment
was raised in York in 1759.
THE DRILL HALL,
St. Andrewgate, belonging to the Rifle Volunteers, is an
ornamental brick building with stone facings, 90 by 60 feet,
with balcony at one end. It was erected in 1872, and is also
used for public meetings.
On the outside is the motto of the
corps: Pro arts et focis.^^
YORK RIFLE VOLUNTEERS
Consists of 364 men and fifteen officers. The armoury is
attached to the Victoria Drill Hall, St. Andrewgate. The
York corps was raised in 1859, and subsequently incorporated
with the 16th W,. R. (Harrogate), 17th W. R. (Knares-

96
borough), 27tli W. R. (Ripon), 31st W. R. (Tadcaster), and
38th W. R. (Selby) Corps of
Rifle Volunteers, and the whole
became the 1st Administrative Battalion of West Riding
Rifle Volunteers, York being the head quarters.
THIRD WEST YORK ARTILLERY VOLUNTEERS
Were raised in 1861. They are divided into two batteries,
with four guns, and consist of 150 men with five oflScers.
They meet for drill in the Guildhall, and on a plot of ground
in front of the School of Design. The armoury is at 49,
Clarence Street.
YORKSHIRE HUSSARS—YEOMANRY CAVALRY
Consists of eight troops of fifty men each, with twenty-six:
officers, who are called up for seven days' drill in May every
year. The regiment was raised about the year 1800. The
armoury and depot is in Bishopthorp e Road, but during the
week of service head quarters are at the De Grey Rooms, St.
Leonard's Place.
PUBLIC BUILDINGS.
CORN EXCHANGE,
In King Street, is a large room, where the Corn Market is
held on Saturdays. It is also used for meetings, concerts,
and entertainments; will seat from 700 to 1,000 persons.
DE GREY ROOMS,
St. Leonard's Place, near Bootham Bar, were erected in
1841, for the Mess of the Officers of the Yorkshire Yeomanry
Cavalry, and named after their colonel. Earl De
Grey, whose portrait hangs in the principal room. This
room is about 60 by 30 feet, with an orchestra, and is
suitable for balls, concerts, entertainments, &c. It is also
used as an ordinary for the barristers frequenting the
Northern Circuit, and as a Mess-room for the Officers of
the Militia.
FRIENDLY SOCIETIES' HALL,
Castlegate, is one of the old mansions formerly inhabited
by the nobility when residing in the city. It consists of a
number of rooms—the largest will seat 600—and is owned
by a "limited" company of shareholders.

97
JUDGES' LODGINGS,
Xendal, is a large, plain building of brick ; stands back
from the street, has a double flight of steps in front, and
is used by the Judges as a residence when presiding at the
:^k.ssizes
THE MASONIC HALL,
Within the enclosure in Duncombe Street, opposite the
Eoman Catholic Pro- Cathedral of St. Wilfrid, is a stone
building with Grecian portico and entablature, bearing
the motto Audi^ vide^ tace^'' and is used by the brethren
of the York Lodge of Freemasons, No. 236 on the roll of
the Grand Lodge of England-—the Zetland Chapter, No.
236— and the Ancient Ebor Preceptory of the Knights
Templars, No. 101, of York. As the early history of
Masonry in this country is so closely identified with the
city of York, we add a few notes which may prove interesting
to the general reader.
It was here that the first Grand Lodge of All England was
held (about 600 or 627 a.d.) under Edwin, the first Christian
King of Northumbria, who presided as Grand Master, and laid
the foundation of the Cathedral. This tradition, supported as
it is by valuable independent testimony, acknowledges York
to be, if not the birthplace, at least the primitive authoritative
seat of Masonry in England. A guild charter was also g:^anted
to the craft by King Athelstane in 926, during whose reign it
is more than probable that another general assembly of
Masons was held in the city. The fortunes and influence of
the Order varied through successive years with the cha^nging
character of the times—occasionally languishing from
neglect, then again reviving under more propitious days---
but always acknowledging allegiance to the seat of Masonic
government, the Grand Lodge at York,
To this Order we owe such architectural monuments as the
Abbey of Westminster, the Tower of London, the Temple,
York Minster, several of our cathedrals, and other structures.
Until the reign of Queen Elizabeth the members of the
Masonic body consisted almost entirely of operatives, but about
this time many noblemen and gentlemen seeking admission
were initiated and enrolled as speculative participators in the
customs and usages of the Order, which now embraces in its
jranks all classes of men, from the crowned heads of civilised

98
Europe to the benighted savage in the wildest wastes of
Africa. This Grand Lodge of All England, after flourishing
several hundred years, gradually declined, and held its last
meeting August 23, 1792, its functions being taken over by
the Grand Lodge of England (London). From this latter
the present Lodge, No. 236, received its warrant of constitution
in July, 1777 ; it is now in a flourishing condition,,
with upwards of 150 subscribing members, and celebrated'
its centenary in 1877. The hall contains several objects of
great Masonic interest. The meetings are held at 7 p.m. on
the first and third Monday in each month from October to
March inclusive, and on the third Monday in each month
from April to September inclusive.
MERCHANTS' HALL,
In Fossgate, is of great antiquity. Over the entrance
gateway are the arms of the company, sculptured in stone,,
with their motto, " Dieu nous donne bonne adventure,''^
The hall itself is approached by an ascent of steps from
the court-yard, and consists of two rooms (formerly one),
each 65 by 25 feet. The inner room contains numerous
portraits of former Governors of the Company, and is
used for guild meetings. The first entered room is used
for a Sunday School. By permission of the Governor,,
these rooms are occasionally let for religious assemblies. The
small room on the right is used by the York Penny Bank.
On opening a large trap-door, at the end of the first large
room, steps are discovered leading to a chapel, in which
service is performed only once a year, generally in April,
when the members of the company are expected to attend
in guild dress ; the chapel has but this one singular entrance.
MERCHANT TAILORS' HALL
Is a building of brick at the bottom of a court in Aldwark
is now used as a mixed National School and for the Eye
Institution. The guild formerly numbered amongst its
members kings, dukes, and earls, and still continues to hold
its meetings in one of the small rooms of the building.
POST OFFICE,
Lendal, a plain substantial stone building, erected in 1840,,
recently enlarged and improved.

99
POSTAL TELEGKAPH OFFICE
Is in Micklegate, opposite the end of
Eailway Street.^ This
is also a post and money order office.
POOR-LAW OFFICES,
Museum Street, a substantial 'building of stone where the
Board of Guardians meet every Thursday, The ground-floor
is used as
a subscription news-room.
SAVINGS BANK,
Corner of St. Helen's Square and Blake Street, built of stone
in the Italian style, and consists of suitable offices, with
a large room on the first floor lent only for charitable and
benevolent purposes, capable of seating about two hundred
persons.
THE ASSEMBLY ROOMS,
Built after a design by the Earl of Burlington, in 1730, at a
cost of £5,000, are entered through a portico with Corinthian
columns in Blake Street, and are used for county and other
balls. The principal room is the Egyptian Hall, 112
feet long by 4jO broad, and 40 in height. There is a
commodious orchestra on one side ; the roof is supported by
54 massive Corinthian columns, the whole being neatly
decorated. There is a smaller room about 60 by 20 feet,
with ladies' and card room adjoining.
. THE
FESTIVAL CONCERT ROOM
Is the largest public room in the city, and will accommodate
about two thousand persons. It has a frontage in the
Alhambra or Moorish style, and is entered from Museum
Street, opposite St. Leonard's Hospital. It was built in 1824
for the convenience of the audience at the evening concerts
of the Yorkshire Musical Festivals, the Assembly Rooms not
being large enough for the purpose. The cost of its erection
was about J69,500. The interior is decorated in accordance
with the principles of Greek art, having a frieze copied from
the Elgin marbles. It is 95 by 60, and 45 feet high ; has a
capacious orchestra, and in the winter season is used for
meetings and musical entertainments. On extraordinary
occasions the large folding doors between this and the
Assembly Rooms are thrown open.

100
THEATRE ROYAL,
Corner of St. Leonard's Place and Buncombe Street, was
erected in 1765, by Tate Wilkinson, an eccentric actor of
his day. The new frontage in St. Leonard's Place, a
handsome Gothic structure •of stone, was built in 1879.
Underneath is a vault or crypt, consisting of a series of
arches, with short Norman pillars, partly hidden by modern
brickwork. This is doubtless a portion of the remains of St.
Peter's Church destroyed by fire in 1137.
VICTORIA HALL,
Goodramgate, formerly the Temperance Lecture Hall, belongs
to the trustees of the Temperance Society. It will accommodate
about one thousand persons ; is prettily decorated, and is
used for entertainments, religious meetings, &c.
YORK GASLIGHT COMPANY'S
Premises in Monkgate were erected in 1823. The principal
object of interest is the elegant chimney, built in the same
proportions as the column in the forum of Trajan at Rome,
and which can be seen for miles on the east side of the city.
YORK POOR-LAW UNION WORKHOUSE
Is a large and commodious building on the Huntington Road.
The Union includes all the parishes (25) of the city, and 44
of the surrounding districts.
YORK NEW WATERWORKS COMPANY.
The head offices are adjoining Lendal Tower. The
pumping engines and reservoirs are on the banks of the
river Ouse about a mile north of the city. The high service
reservoir is on the top of Severus' Hill. This company
was established in 1850, the earliest mention of waterworks
in York dating from 1677, when Lendal Tower was leased
to a London merchant named Richard Whistler for 500 years
at the annual rent of a peppercorn.
YORKSHIRE FIRE AND LIFE INSURANCE
COMPANY'S
Head offices (established 1824), with an Italian front, are
situate at the corner of Lendal and St. Helen's Square,
looking down Coney Street ;
they were built in 1848.
The fire engines and escape are in charge of the police.

101
YORKSHIRE FINE ART AND INDUSTRIAL
INSTITUTION.
This building, wliicli is classic in design, has a frontage of
104 feet, and stands on a plot of ground known as Bearpark's
Gardens, close to the Wilberforce School for the Blind.
The elevation is seen admirably from Bootham Bar and the
De Grey Rooms, being in a line with that end of St. Leonard's
Place. The sides are of white brick, with slight stone dressings.
The front is entirely of stone, and is graced by an
open arcaded portico of five arches, and one in each return.
This portion of the building will be further ornamented by
the addition of statuary and mosaics as soon as there are sufficient
funds in hand to meet the necessary expense. Under
and on each side of the portico, which covers a space of 54 by IS
feet, are several doorways ;
passing through any one of which
we step into the entrance hall (39 by 27 feet), having secretary's
ofiice, lavatories, and other rooms on each side. This
leads immediately into the central lecture or concert hall (87
by 39 feet and 50 feet high), with curved open roof. Flanking
this on either side, and forming continuous galleries
lighted from the top, are rooms for pictures. The one on
the right measures 85 by 29 feet; that on the left, 102 by
29 feet, their uniform height 26 feet. A permanent picture
saloon, about the same size as the last-mentioned gallery, is
over the front part of the building, and is approached by a
wide staircase ; it is furnished with fire-proof floor, and
lighted by double skylights. In addition to paintings, it
is proposed to make also a permanent collection of other works
of art, industry, and technical appliances. This, when complete,
in association with the Museum of the Yorkshire
^'
Philosophical Society, in close proximity to St. Mary's Abbey,
the occupation of the old palace buildings by the Wilberforce
School for the Blind, the whole enclosed by the Abbey Walls,
but yet opened out by a noble square, will form an object of
interest perfectly unique and unsurpassed by anything in the
kingdom."
In this building there are periodic exhibitions of oil
paintings and water colours, with other works of art. The
grand saloon is admirably adapted for the exhibition of
paintings from the clever management of the top lights.
The large hall is occasionally used for lectures and concerts.

102
BKIDGES, MAEKETS, AND FAIKS.
LENDAL BRIDGE
Is of iron, and was erected by the late Thos. Page, C.E., in
1862, at a total cost—including the approaches—of £35,000.
It is designed on the plan of that at Westminster by the
same architect, and replaced an iron girder bridge which fell
before completion, causing the death of six persons. The
span of the single arch is 175ft. 2in., the width 37ft. 10 in.,
with a clear height from the summer level of the river of 25
feet. The ironwork, weighing 380 tons, is formed of six
massive ribs, on which the carriage way is placed : it consists
of strong iron plates overlaid with concrete, and paving
of Mont-Sorrel granite covered with gravel.
In the central portion of the open parapet are a series
of quatrefoils 18 in. in diameter, upon which are fixed shields
with the arms of England, the see of York, and also the
white rose of York, all emblazoned. In the centre on
each side is an ornamental gas standard of two lights, with
devices of roses and fleur-de-lis. Beneath, on the outer sides,
England.
are angels supporting the Red Cross of
From this graceful bridge fine views are obtained of the
Cathedral, Museum grounds and St. Mary's Abbey, Guildhall,
new Railway Hotel, and the windings of the river Ouse.
A toll of one halfpenny is demanded at the lodge.
SCARBOROUGH RAILWAY BRIDGE.
Looking up the river is seen the Scarborough Railway
Bridge—a neat structure of iron, built in 1845, across which
the traflic with the East Riding is principally carried on.
There is also a path for foot passengers.
OUSE BRIDGE
Is built of stone, and connects Micklegate with Ousegate.
It consists of three elliptical arches, the span of the centre
one being 75 feet, and was erected in 1810, the foundation
stone being laid by the Lord Mayor, Geo. Peacock, Esq. It

103
^as finisliecl in 1820, during tlie second mayoralty of Mr»
Peacock, who, by a singular coincidence, laid the last stone
on the 19th of August. There are large and substantial
flights of steps on the south side at each end, which lead
down to the Staiths on both sides of the river.
A bridge has stood here from the earliest times ; and upon
the entry into York of Archbishop William, its patron saint, in
1154, the wooden erection, being crowded, gave way, precipitating
many people into the river "
: oweing to his prayers,
however, none were drowned." The first stone bridge was
built in 1235, and was destroyed by a terrible flood 1564.
In 1268-—an affray occurring here between the citizens and
a Scotch nobleman, which resulted in several deaths—
chapel, dedicated to St. William, was built, in order that
prayers might continually be said for their souls. After the
Eeformation this chapel was successively converted into an
exchange, a council chamber, record ofiice, and felons' prison.
It was taken down in 1810, with the old structure to which
it was attached, both having become very dangerous.
SKELDEEGATE BEIDGE,
Between Skeldergate postern and Tower Street, for the
-convenience of the cattle trafiic, is of iron, from a
design of the late Thos. Page, C.E., and erected under
superintendence of his son, Mr. Geo. G. Page. It
consists of five arches, three of which cross the river and
two for the land traffic on each side the river. The
centre arch has a span of 90 feet ; the other river spans are
30 feet wide and the the land arches 24 feet. It is what is
-called a bascule bridge, having a drawbridge to allow the
passage of masted vessels. The machinery is worked by
-hydraulic power. This is a pay bridge—toll, one halfpenny.
There are five bridges over the Eiver Foss in York, the first
of which is the
BLUE BEIDGE,
'Of wood, on the New Walk, for foot passengers only, and
situate just at the confluence of this river with the Ouse.
The two large guns, trophies from Sebastopol, were placed
liere in 1858. A short distance away from this is the

104
CASTLE MILLS BEIDGE,
Of great antiquity, whicli some years ago was repaired and
improved.
FOSS BEIDGE,
Whicli connects Walmgate with Fossgate, was rebuilt in
1811, the old structure dating from the time of Henry IV.
LAYERTHOEPE BEIDGE,
Formerly very narrow, and guarded at the city end by a
postern, was pulled down and the present one erected in its
place in 1829.
MONK BEIDGE
Is quite modern, and forms the approach from Malton,
Scarborough, and the north-east districts of the county.
THE BONDING WAEEHOUSES
Are of brick, with stone facings, situate at the foot of
Skeldergate near the new iron bridge. They were erected
some three or four years ago, and have proved a very
lucrative investment for the city. We understand an additional
warehouse is
shortly to be built.
MAKKETS.
The Cattle Market is just without the city waUs^
on the plot of ground lying between Walmgate Bar
and George Street postern. It was laid out in 1853,
extends over six and a half acres, and is divided into pens
for sheep and cattle by iron railings. There are also
covered sheds for the sale and storage of wool. The
market is held on alternate Thursdays.
Butchers' Market.—St. Sampson's Square ;
Saturdays.
Corn Market.—Corn Exchange, King Street ;
Satur-
-days, from 12 to 2 p.m.
General Produce Market (Butter, Eggs, Fruit, Poultry, ,
Vegetables, &c.)—Parliament Street ;
Saturdays.

105
Hay Weighs.— -At Cattle Market and on Peasehohne
Green.
Pig- Market.—^Walmgate, near Foss Bridge ; Wednes
days, 8 a.m. till 1 p.m. ;
Saturdays, 8 a.m. till 4 p.m.
Potato Market.—Peaseholme Green ;
Saturdays.
Wool Market.—Is held in tlie sheds at the Cattle
Market, weekly during the season, commencing about the
last Thursday in May and is continued till the second week
in September.
FAIRS.
A Cattle Fair is held in the Cattle Market every fortnight
(Thursday), and on Whit Monday, Lammas, Soulmas,
and Martinmas Days.
Pleasure Fairs are held in Parliament Street at Whitsuntide
and Martinmas.
Statute Hirings are held in Parliament Street at Martinmas
for the hire of agricultural servants.
A Horse Fair is held in Blossom Street, without Micklegate
Bar, the last whole week before Christmas.
MISCELLANEOUS.
BATHS.
Swimming.—At the foot of Marygate ; the bath is 120
by 80 feet. Summer season 1st May to 30th September;
open daily (except Sundays) from 6 a.m. to 9 p.m. On
Tuesdays and Thursdays the bath is reserved for ladies
between 10 a.m. and 1 p.m.
Public Baths, in St. George's Field, on the left bank of
the river Foss, opened in 1880, are in the Italian style, of
red and white brick. The two devoted to swimming are each
70 feet by 25 feet; there are also slipper baths, with arrangements
for hot and cold water. Open :—Summer season, Ist
April ending 30th September ;
week-days 6 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Sundays 6 to 9 a.m. Winter season, 1st October ending 31st
March; week-days, 7 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Sundays, in October and
March only, 7 to 9 a.m. Charges :—First class, slipper bath
(warm or cold) 6d., swimming 4d.; second class, slipper bath

106
(warm or cold) Sd., swimming 2d. On Wednesdays in
€very week the baths are reserved for the exclusive use of
ladies at the same charges.
Yearsley Bridge Baths, on the Foss, under the care
and protection of the Corporation, for open bathing.
BANKS.
National Provincial Bank of England, 1, Market
Street, corner of
Spurriergate.
York City and County Bank, 13, Parliament Street.
York and East Kiding Bank (Beckett and Co.), 45,
Coney Street.
York Union Bank, 16,
High Ousegate, at the corner of
Parliament Street.
Yorkshire Bank, 30, High Ousegate, at the corner of
Nessgate.
Savings Bank, St. Helen's Square.
Penny Bank, Merchants' Hall, Fossgate.
YOKK RACES.
These sports take place on Knavesmire, where the committee
have erected stands and every requisite for conducting
the races in the first-rate style of turf affairs.
The meetings are held in May and August. There are also
steeple -chases in March, or early in April. Upwards of
£3,000 are annually added to the stakes by the Race Committee
from their receipts.
This city and neighbourhood have long been famous for
this kind of diversion, being alluded to by Camden (1590).
The modern races were established in 1709, and were formerly
run on Clifton Ings, but, owing to some dispute, were
transferred to Knavesmire.
STRAYS.
The freemen have the exclusive right of depasturing their
cattle on the different strays belonging to the four ancient
wards of the city. They are large tracts of land on each
side of the suburbs, viz.
Micklegate Stray.—Scarcroft (19 acres), Knavesmire
(348 acres), and Hob Moor (67 acres), outside Micklegate
Bar ;
total, 484 acres.
BooTHAM Stray, without Bootham Bar, at the end of
Clarence Street (128 acres).

107
Monk Stray, without Monk Bar, on the Malton Eoad
{134 acres).
Walmgate Stray.—Low Moor, without Walmgate Bar,
on the Heslington Eoad (81 acres).
These common lands act as lungs to the city, and are much
used by the people for recreation and amusement.
POPULATION
At the last census in 1881 was, within the municipal boundary,
49,377, which, with the suburbs, 10,077, makes a
total of 59,454.
BUEIAL GEOUNDS.
The Cemetery is situate on the east of the city, the entrance
being in the road leading from the Cattle Market to
Pulford Eoad, and was opened in 1837. It is the property
of a joint stock company of shareholders. It occupies about
twelve acres, is tastefully laid out with shrubs and trees, and
has several fine monuments. There is one chapel, divided
for church and dissenting services. The grounds are open
daily (Sundays excepted), April to October, 8 a.m. to 7
p.m. ; October to April, 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Cholera Burial Ground is outside the city walls,
nearly opposite the entrance to the New Station. It was set
apart in 1882 for the interment of those who died of the
terrible epidemic which visited this city
in that year.
The Society of Friends have two burial grounds, one in
Jail Lane, now closed, the other behind the Eetreat, Heslington
Eoad.
THE EAILWAY STATION,
Situate in Thief Lane, between Lendal Bridge and Micklegate
Bar, outside the Walls. It was opened June, 1877: is said
to be the handsomest station in England, and covers, with its
appurtenances, including goods and mineral depots and
sidings, 130 acres. Its appointments are of the highest
class, and it is supplied with every modern scientific improvement.
Attached is a splendid hotel, capable of accommodating
120 visitors, and commanding beautiful views of the
river. Museum Grounds, St. Mary's Abbey, Lendal Bridge,
iand the Cathedral. The plot of ground in front is tastefully
laid out with flower beds and shrubbery.

108
STREETS.
Names and Architecture.—^Many of tlie streets of
York, notwithstanding considerable recent improvements,
are still very narrow and irregular. Up to within the
last forty or fifty years, numerous houses with overhanging
stories, through whose topmost windows people living
on opposite sides of the street could easily shake hands,
might be found in several localities. Of these relics of
the middle ages, built of timber and plaster, scarcely
any now remain. Probably the quaintest and most
interesting streets to the visitor are Stonegate, Fossgate,
College Street, Goodramgate, Finkle Street, Water Lane,,
Walmgate, and Petergate.
In and about the city are a number of large mansions,
once the town houses of the nobility, when York was a
fashionable city, and the centre of attraction for the
north of England. Occasionally a sedan chair may even yet
be seen—and two or three examples of the extinguisher for
the torches, carried by the link boys before the age of gas,
remain affixed to certain old residences. Bootham, Monkgate,
Parliament Street (in which fairs and markets are held), St.
Leonard's Place and Museum Street (both containing very
fine houses), are all broad open thoroughfares of modern
construction.
We append some of the old names which still survive,
and their origin :
Bootham.—Said by Drake to have derived its name from
the booths annually set up during the fair kept by the Abbot
of St. Mary's ; but probably it is of more ancient orgin,
dating from the time of the Romans, who had their funeral
piles here—the derivation from hoeth " to burn.
Coney Street, from the Saxon word " Conyng '' a king,
Davygate derives its name from David le Lardiner,
Keeper of the King's Yenison in the forest of Galtres, time
of Henry IIL He resided in a mansion called Davy Hall.
Finkle Street (sometimes called " Mucky Peg Lane ")
is derived from the Danish word " Fmc/e," an angle or
corner.
GiLLYGATE, SO called from the Church of St. Giles, which
formerly stood there.

,
JuBBERG-ATE,
,
Knavesmire
,
Spurriergate,
:
Staiths
109
GoODKAMGATE, named after Gutliram or Oodram, a
Danish chief who resided there in Alfred the Great's time.
Jewbury, so called from being used by the Jews as a
burial place, dating from Henry II. 's time.
the principal place of residence for the
Jews in the middle ages, formerly called Jew-burgh-gate.''^
is from the Anglo-Saxon Knave,' ^ a poor
house-holder, and mire,^^ alluding to the watery situation—
thus making it the poor man's field,
Lendal, a supposed corruption of Leonardos Hill, from
its nearness to the hospital of that name.
Micklegate, from the Anglo-Saxon " Michel,^^ great, and
" /z/^A," a port or gate, formerly called Michlelyth, the large
•or spacious street.
Ogleforth, formerly called Uggleforth, said by Dr.
Langwith to be derived from the British word " wcAe/," denoting
high, and "/)oriA," now written and pronounced
"/or^/z," a gate, meaning high gate ; hence we may suppose
that a principal gate or entrance to the Cathedral Close
stood here.
Skeldergate, from the old Dutch word Keller or
Keldar,^^ a cellar or warehouse. In the busy days of York
it was occupied by merchants for the purposes of trade.
the street in which the makers of spurs
resided.
(The).—Staith is a provincial word signifying
wharf. They are on each side of the river at Ouse Bridge.
Stonegate, anciently called " Staynegate,^^ derived its
name from the great quantity of stone carried through it
during the various erections of the Cathedral.
Walmgate, a corruption of Watling-gate, the name of
the Roman street leading to the Humber and eastern
seaports.
Whip-ma-WHOP-MA-GATE, between Colliergate and Fossgate.
The origin of this word is unknown, but it is
supposed to have been a boundary for the public
whipping of delinquents at the cart's tail from the House
of Correction, then on Peaseholme Green. This name is
liow discontinued.

110
MANUFACTURES AND COMMERCE.
The trade of York is but very limited as compared with
the great centres of industry in the West Riding. It has
various manufactures. Confectionery may be said to be itsstaple.
Glass is largely made, as also combs, edge tools,
optical and other instruments, saddlery, wire weaving.
There are several large Iron Foundries, Breweries, Flour,
and Saw Mills.
The Railway Works employ a great number of men^
Leather and drugs are largely dealt in. The city is ornamented
with a good number of really handsome shops in
every class of trade, which will compare very favourably
with any other town in the county.
THE HOTELS
Of York are numerous, and sustain well the character of the
city, being scrupulously clean, liberal, and most reasonable
in their charges.
CLUBS.
Yorkshire (County Gentlemen) Club, Lendal Bridge.
EstabHshed 1839; members, 400; proprietary.
York Club (Professional City Gentlemen), Blake Street..
Established about 1820 ;
members, 75.
City Club (City Tradesmen), Friendly Societies' Hall,
Castlegate. Established 1877; members, 100.
Temperance Club (Social), Feasegate. Established 1878;
members, 100 ; limited company.
Conservative Club (Political), Coney Street, behind
Leak and Thorp's drapery warehouse. Established 1881
members, 600; proprietary.
Liberal Club (Political), Castlegate. Established 1879
about 180 members ; limited company.
PLEASURE BOATS.
Amongst the recreations of the city there are pleasure
boats of every description let out for hire by the hour, whick
can be rowed either up or down the river ;
and during the
summer months vast numbers of visitors, excursionists,,
The
and citizens avail themselves of this enjoyable exercise.
boats can be obtained at the landing places of Lendal, Eling's-
Staith, and Clementhorpe.

Ill
Steamers also, conveying pleasure parties, school children,,
and workmen's anniversary trips, ply daily in summer between
Lendal Bridge and Newton-upon-Ouse, calling at Poppleton,.
Nun Monkton, &c. ; and between King's Staith and Naburn,
calling at the charming village of Bishopthorp e.
KEWSPAPEES.
The " York Herald " is Liberal in politics, and was
estabhshed in 1790, as a weekly paper, the first number
appearing on Saturday, the 2nd of January, in that year.
It was purchased by Mr. William Hargrove in 1813. The
Herald originally consisted of four small pages, which from
time to time were enlarged, till in March, 1843, it was issued
as an eight-page paper. The York Couranty which was
started in August, 1725, and purchased by Mr. Hargrove in
1817, was incorporated with jthe Herald in 1848, after an.
existence of 123 years. In 1855, Mr. Hargrove's two sons
were admitted partners, and the paper was at once enlarged
to twelve pages. Mr. Hargrove, sen., died in 1862, after
a life devoted to the interests of the city. The Yorkshire
Advertiser, another local paper of some years' existence, was
purchased by Messrs. Hargrove in 1871, and incorporated
with the Herald; and, in 1874, the Yorkshire Telegraphy
which had been established in 1869, was also incorporated
with the Herald, In consequence of the great increase in its^
advertisements, the size of the Herald has subsequently
expanded to sixteen pages, and, in 1870, the price wasreduced
from 3d. to 2d., which resulted in a large augmentation
of its circulation. At the close of 1873, Mr. A.
Hargrove retired ;
and Mr. W. W. Hargrove, in conjunction
with some of the principal noblemen and gentlemen of the
county, formed it into a Limited Liability Company, and, in
January, 1874, it was issued as a daily paper. The Herald
is edited with great abihty, whilst the strictest attention,
is paid to commercial, agricultural, sporting, and district
news. The arrangement for early foreign telegrams and the
parliamentary debates are very complete. In short, the
Herald is conducted with great enterprise, the object being
to maintain its position in the foremost rank of the provincial
daily press. As an advertising medium, it is unsurpassed
and its circulation is one of the largest in the provinces,

112
jfco provide for which it is printed on a Prestonian Web
Printing Perfecting Machine, at the rate of 12,000 an hour.
The price of the daily " Herald " is one penny, and the
weekly edition twopence. The offices are at No. 9, Coney
Street.
The " Yorkshire Gazette " commenced its career on
the 23rd of April, 1819. Its first editor was Mr. F. Sharp,
and its publisher Mr. John Wolstenholme. Its proprietary
has always comprised many influential gentlemen of the
Conservative party, among them being several leading
members of the legal profession. The paper was established
to uphold and support constitutional principles in the city
and county of York. Its first editor was soon removed, and
was succeeded by Mr. Philip Francis Sydney, who afterwards
became proprietor of the Yorkshire Observer. He was followed
by Mr. William Cooke Stafford, who was editor from
1821 to 1834, when he purchased and became proprietor of
the York Chronicle. In the meantime, in 1828, Mr. Wolstenholme
retired from the duties of publisher, and was
succeeded by Mr, Henry Bellerby, who remained publisher
until 1851. Mr. Christopher Kemplay was editor from
1834 to 1839, when he became proprietor of the Leeds
Intelligencer. Mr. J. L. Foster—who had been brought up
in the office from 1823, and had acted as sub-editor and
reporter—succeeded Mr. Kemplay as editor, and in 1851 he
also became publisher and managing proprietor in succession
to Mr. H. Bellerby. During its long and successful career
the Yorkshire Gazette has been distinguished for its uniform
and consistent course of policy. It has been the firm
advocate of Conservative principles, possessing the confidence
of its party, and having a large circulation throughout the
county among the wealthier and more influential classes
of society. It has always been in the front in defence of the
EstabHshed Church, and is a valuable authority on Church
matters. Its law reports have been distinguished for their
accuracy. Agriculture has ever been an interest which
claimed its advocacy ; and as a Yorkshire journal it has paid
deserved attention to sporting events. It is published every
Saturday, price 2d., and is the largest and most influential
weekly Conservative paper in the north of England. The
offices are at No. 15, High Ousegate.

113
The "Yorkshire Chronicle," is a paper of independent
Liberal principles, and has a very large circulation
in the agricultural districts and in the city of York.
It was established about thirty years ago by Mr. John
Bell, as the EicJimond and Ripon Chronicle^ and though
Tinder a different proprietary at present, it still holds its first
position in the county. Some years ago it was brought to
York for the advantage of a more convenient centre, and it
has become a city as well as a country organ of opinion. It
is pubhshed every Saturday, at Id. The office is at No. 4,,
Castlegate.
TICINITY, AND PLACES OF INTEREST.
PEOMENADES.
The Esplanade runs along the right margin of the river
from Lendal Bridge to Clifton Scope, about one mile in
length. It is in places planted with trees, has seats here
and there, and forms a very pleasant promenade close
to the city. A boat-house of one of the rowing societies
is placed a short distance beyond the Scarborough railway
bridge.
The New Walk commences at St. George's Field, and
crossing the Blue Bridge, continues along the left bank
of the river, which is overshadowed by stately elms for
almost a mile. The trees were planted in 1733-4 by the
Corporation. Midway between the Blue Bridge and the
end of the Walk is a spring well, remarkable for its
clearness and certain medicinal properties. This is a
charming avenue, and is certainly the pleasantest promenade
the citizens possess. Proceeding onward across
the fields, and past the old mortuary (formerly parish)
church, we arri\^e at the village of Fulford.
Within easy walking distance from the city are the
following
I

114
VILLAGES.
AC0MB, pleasantly situated, about two and a-lialf miles
from York, is approached through Micklegate Bar and Holgate
Lane, and is much frequented by invalids. On the way
the pedestrian will pass on his left the house occupied by
Lindley Murray, the grammarian ; to the right Severus' Hill
and further .on to the left the ornamental nursery grounds of
Messrs. Backhouse & Son, which are well worth a visit. They
contain a remarkable piece of landscape gardening in the
shape of an Alpine grotto, with ferneries, orchid house, and
rare exotics of all descriptions.
St. Stephen's Church is a plain semi- Gothic building of
stone, erected in the early part of this
century, consisting of
nave, small chancel with open timbered roof, short transepts,
and three galleries. There are two bells in the low tower,
on which a somewhat stunted spire is built. The principal
attraction of the church is its position; standing on high
ground surrounded by trees, above which its spire rises and
may be seen from a great distance. There are several monuments
in the church, and two ancient carved chairs near the
communion table.
BISHOPTHORPE, about three miles south of the city,
on the right bank of the Ouse, is the residence of the
Archbishops of York. The palace is an irregular building,
purchased originally by Archbishop Walter De Grey in the
13th century, and approached through a gateway with
crocketed turrets, erected by Archbishop Drummond about
1770, out of stone taken from the ruins of Cawood Castle,
another palace. Archbishop Drummond also erected the
central block of buildings in the Debased Gothic of his time
which now forms the most prominent feature of the house.
There are several fine rooms, the principal being the dining
room, on the walls of which are hung portraits of the
prelates who have filled this see since the Reformation.
The Chapel, a good specimen of Early English^ was built
by Walter De Grey. Archbishop Scrope's mock trial took
place here in 1405. A stately row of poplars lines the
village street.

115
St. Andrew's Church is a small building near the Palace
Perpendicular, Has nave, two small transepts, chancel, and
gallery. The east window of stained glass is said to have
been brought from the old palace at Cawood. On the north
side of the chancel is the Archbishop's throne. There is one
bell.
CLIFTON is about one mile distant from Bootham Bar.
Overlooking the village green is the Church of St. Philip
and St. James. It was erected in 1857 ;
has nave, transepts,
chancel, and tower, with belfry containing six bells. Early
English in style, with open timber roof.
About half a mile beyond is the North and East
EiDiNGS Asylum for pauper lunatics, ^opened in 1847. It
is a large, handsome building, in the Elizabethan style, and
stands in a garden of thirty acres, attached to which is a
grazing farm of upwards of fifty acres. The patients, about
three hundred in number, are extensively employed in
various handicrafts.
There is a chapel connected with the establishment, where
divine service is held on Sundays and Wednesdays. (See
page 87.)
DRINGHOUSES, about one mile and a half south of York,
pleasantly situated beyond Knavesmire, with beautiful church
dedicated to St. Edmund the Confessor. It has nave, chancel,
and small bell turret containing two bells, open timber roof,
oak furniture, handsome reredos and altar ;
all the windows
are of stained glass. Early English; will accommodate
about 300.
ESCRICK, a large village six miles to the south-east. The
church is a gem of architectural work, and worth a
lengthened inspection. Escrick Park, the seat of Lord
Wenlock, is close to the village.
FULFORD, about one and a half miles from York, near the
Ouse. Here, in 1066, Earls Morcar and Edwin were defeated
by the Norwegian chiefs, Harold, Hardrada, and Tosti.
St. Oswald's Church was erected in 1866 at a cost of about
d6 6000, raised by subscription. Early English in style and
has nave, aisles, transepts, chancel, vestry, clock tower, with,
vopen bell chamber, in which is hung one bell, the lights

116
being ornamented, with slender shafts of red granite. This
church was partially destroyed by fire on 13th February,
1877. It has since been restored at a cost of £5079, and
was re-opened in 1878 for public worship.
The old parish church at the bottom of Church Lane near
the river is a low unpretending building of stone with brick
tower, and is only used for funeral purposes.
HESLINGTON, a pretty village, about two miles from York.
On passing the Ketreat a charming lane leads to the Hall, a
mansion in the Elizabethan style, built on three sides of a
quadrangle, with the Yarburgh arms over the entrance, and
figure of Diana the lawn in front. On the south front is the
following inscription!— This ancient mansion was originally
erected by Thomas Eymes, Esq., one of Queen Elizabeth's
Council for the northern part of England, and Secretary and
Keeper of Her Majesty's Seal for the said Council, a.d. 1578 ;
it was restored, altered, and enlarged by Yarburgh Yarburgh,
Esq., 1854." At the restoration, the old banqueting hall
was preserved intact and cased in the new building ; and in
the windows are fine old specimens of stained glass. The
Hall contains a good collection of oil paintings, to which
strangers however aie not admitted. There is a Dutch
garden on the west side filled with trees of box and yew cut
into quaint and peculiar shapes.
St. Paul's is a new church of Earl?/ English; has nave,
chancel, and tower with spire.
It has one bell.
HEWORTH may be classed as one of
the suburbs, and is
about one mile from the city.
Holy Trinity Church, at the angle of Tang Hall Lane and
East Parade (1869), has nave, small transepts, chancel and
spire ; Ear It/ English ; will accommodate about four hundred
people. The east window is of stained glass. The tower
contains two bells.
MAESTON, about seven miles from York on the Knaresbro''
branch of the North Eastern Eailway. Near the village is
Marston Moor, where the famous battle between the Koyalists
and Parliamentarians was fought, July 2nd, 1644. The latter
were commanded by the Earls of Manchester and Leven, Lord
Fairfax, and Oliver Cromwell, Prince Rupert leading on his
Cavaliers. After a fierce struggle the Prince was defeated

117
with great loss. The graves of the slain are now pointed
out in Wilstrop Wood, and a spot on the Moor is still called
" CromwelFs Gap."
OSBALDWICK, about two miles from the city on the
Hull road, leading out of Walmgate Bar. There is a small
church, which has recently been restored.
SKELTON, about four miles to the north of York, is remarkable
for its church, a small but beautiful example of
Early English architecture. It is said to have been built
about the time of Archbishop Walter de Grey (13th century)
of materials which remained after the finishing of the south
transept of the Minster. It is Avell known amongst students
of ecclesiastical architecture.
THE BURTON PICTUEE GALLERY.
Between two and three miles from York on the Boro'bridge
road is Poppleton Villa, the residence of Mr. Burton, an
ardent admirer and connoisseur of the fine arts. His gallery
contains some good examples of Stansfield, Ward, Linnel,
Cooper, Frank Stone, Faed, J. Phillip, R.A., W. Miiller,
Sir John Gilbert, R.A., and many others of the modern
English and Continental schools. The admission fee is one
shilling. We understand that the receipts are given to local
charities.
VICINITY.
Although the country immediately surrounding the city,
owing to its flatness, is not particularly remarkable for its
natural beauty, still within a radius of thirty miles many
charming spots in the vale of York may be found : there are
the mansions and park-like seats of noblemen and county
gentry well watered and beautifully wooded, and probably
richer in historic interest than any other portion of England.
We find numerous remains telling of the rude times of ancient
Britain—tesselated pavements, masonry, and coins—which
speak to us of the days when Imperial Rome selected Eboracum
for the capital of her distant dominions; there are village
churches showing traces of Anglo-Saxon and the simple style

118
of the early Norman age : dotting the country side we find
also ruined abbey and castle keep surrounded with a halo
of mediaeval associations, to reach which one must cross
memorable battle-fields on which has been decided more
than once the title to England's crown.
The following places are easily accessible by rail, returning
the same day :
Aldborough—See Boroughbridge.
Ampleforth—See Coxwold.
Barnard Castle, seventy miles from York by rails. Here
are the remains of an old castle, near which is Greta Bridge
and Rokeby.
Bolton Abbey, in the Vale of the Wharfe, and near to
the celebrated " Strid."
Boroughbridge, about seventeen miles from York (22 by
rails) . About half a mile distant are three curious monoliths,
called the " devil's arrows." Quite close to the town is the
village of Aldborough, the Isuriam of the Eomans, where
numerous Eoman remains may be seen in the Manor House.
Bramham—See Tadcaster.
Byland Abbef—See Coxwold.
Castle Howard, fifteen miles from York, on the Scarborough
Eailway ; mansion and grounds belonging to the
Earl of Carlisle; well worthy of a visit. Here is a picture
gallery containing many fine specimens of the old masters
amongst others, the celebrated Three Maries," by Annibale
Caracci, and a unique collection of views of Venice by Canaletti.
From the train may be seen the ruins of Kirkham
Abbey, picturesquely situate on the Derwent.
CowTHORPE—See Knaresborough.
CoxvrOLD, eighteen miles distant by rails ;
situate near the
Hambleton Hills. Shandy Hall, the residence of Lawrence
Sterne. Newburgh Park, the seat of Sir George 0. Wombwell,
Bart., is a mile and a-half south of the village. Eelics
of Cromwell. North are the beautiful ruins of Byland
Abbey. East is the Eoman Catholic College of Ampleforth
and many tumuli and earthworks supposed to be of British
origin.

119
DoNCASTER, thirty-two miles distant by rails; is a nice clean
town, and well-known for its race-course—tlie St. Leger
being run bere. Not far distant from the town are the
ruins of Tickhill Castle, Eoche Abbey, and Conisborough
Castle.
Fountains Abbey—See Ripon.
Harrogate, twenty miles from York by rails; noted for
its mineral waters and the pureness of its atmosphere.
Helmsley, thirty-two miles by rails. Here is Duncombe
Parkj the residence of the Earl of Fevershani (recently destroyed
by fire), and the remains of Helmsley Castle. About
two miles distant are the beautiful ruins of Rievaulx Abbey
and its matchless terrace.
A few miles to the east is Kirkdale cave, in which
were discovered various mammalian remains, chiefly those of
the hyaena. In the village of Kirkdale is a quaint old church.
Ilkley, forty-two miles by rails ;
in Wharfdale. Famous
for its hydropathic establishments.
KiRKHAM Abbey—See Castle Howard.
Knaresborough, eighteen miles from York by rails.
Ruined castle overhanging the Nidd—Dropping Well — St.
Robert's chapel and cave, the latter the scene of the murder
by Eugene Aram, 1745.
At Cowthorpe, seven miles distant,
is an ancient oak, the largest tree in England, sixty feet
in diameter. Plumpton, three miles distant, is noted for
a number of curioiis detached rocks.
Newburgh Park—See Coxwold.
Plumpton—See Knaresborough.
PoNTEFRACT, twenty-two miles by rails : remains of a
castle, a stronghold in feudal times.
Rievaulx Abbey—See Helmsley.
Richmond, forty-four miles from York ; has the remains
of a castle of the middle ages.
About two miles distant is Easby Abbey.
Ripon, thirty miles by rails ; noted for its minster. Two
miles distant, at Studley Royal, are the ruins of Fountains
Abbey, said to be the most beautiful in England.

120
Selby, twelve miles by rails
;
possesses a fine abbey
cburch,
Scarborough, forty-two miles distant by rails, called
The Queen of Watering-places."
Tadcaster, about fifteen miles by rails ; was the
" Calcaria " of the Romans. Two miles distant is Towton
Field, the site of the battle of 1461. Four miles distant
is Bramham Moor, the scene of another great battle (1408)
and Bramham House, the mansion of George Lane Fox,
Esq.
Whitby, fifty- six miles distant by rails; a quaint old
town, most picturesquely situated on the river Esk as it enters
the German Ocean. The scenery in the neighbourhood is
exceedii\gly wild and romantic.

THE YORKSHIRE FIRE & LIFE
INSURANCE COMPANY,
Established at York, 1824, and Empowered by Act of Parliament,
CAPITAL-£500,000.
Reserve Fund—£804,100. Annual Income—£144,154.
TRUSTEES.
W. H. HARRISON-BROADLEY, ESQ., M.P.
SIR HARCOURT JOHNSTONE, Bart.
THE RIGHT HON. LORD WENLOCK.
DIRECTORS.
ROBT. H. BOWER, Esq., Welham, Malton, CHAIRMAN.
SIR JAMES MEEK, Kt., Middlethorpe Lodge, York,
\ y.^^..^^ rHATOA/rrrM
THE RT. HON. LORD WENLOCK, Escrick DEPUTY
Park, f
CHAIRMEN.
J. SILBURN BARBER, Esq., Osbaldwick, York.
J. B. BARKWORTH, Esq., Raywell, Hull.
LT.-COL. BRIGGS, Catherington House, Horndean,
W. H. HARRISON-BROADLEY,Esq.,M.P.,WeIton,
Hull.
REV. R. DRAKE, Stourmouth.
EDWIN GRAY, Esq., York.
WILLIAM HOTHAM, Esq., Fulford Park, York.
REV. CANON JARRATT. North Cave.
WM. MATTERSON, Esq.,
EDWARD P. MAXSTED, Esq., Hull.
M.D., York.
R. W. F. MILLS, Esq., York.
LT.-COL. PEASE, Hesslewood, Hull.
LT.-COL. SALTMARSHE, Saltmarshe, near
Howden.
JOHN F. TAYLOR, Esq.,Holly Bank House, York.
C. W. AVAKE, Esq., Orniathw^aite House, Keswick
H. J. WARE, Esq., York.
I. WHITAKER. Esq., Hessle, near Hull.
SIR G. O. WOMBWELL, Bart, Newburgh Park,
near Easingwold.
J. P. WOOD, Esq., York,
This Company has been established for more than Fifty-seven years. Ample time has therefore
elapsed to test the soundness of the principles upon which it has been conducted.
LIFE
DEPARTMENT.
This Office combines every substantial advantage offerpd by any Assnrance Company.
The Eates of Premiums, with and without profits, are moderate. The Bonuses granted
are unusually large. Eighty per cent, of the profits divided among the insured, who are
under no liability for partnership. No charge made for Stamps or Medical Fees.
DEPARTMENT.
FIRE
The Eate of Premium for Private Dwelling Houses, built of Brick or Stone, and Tiled
or Slated, Is. 6d. per cent. Insurances are taken on the most moderate terms, in accordance
with the nature of the risk.
Losses caused by the Explosion of Gas are covered by this Company.
FARMING STOCK INSURED AT 5s. PER CENT.
In this Department the Company ranks highest amongst all the Provincial Offices, with
one exception, the amount insured last year being ^4,090,440.
No Extra Charge made for the use of a Steam Thrashing Machine.
Losses by Lightning made good
Prospectuses, Tables of Rates, Forms of Proposal, and every information on the subject of
Fire and Life Insurance business can be obtained on application at the Head Office, York,
or to any of its Agents throughout the United Kingdom.
AUDITORS—WM. PHILLIPS, Esq. THOS. F, WOOD, Esq. GEORGE BROWN, Esq.
JOHN R. HILL, Esq.
BAIVKERS-YORK UNION BANKING COMPANY, YORK.
MEI>I€AL EXAMINER—W. H. JALLAND, Esq., F.R.C.S., YORK.
Sl>M€lTORS-MESSRS. W. & E. GRAY.
SECRETARY & tiENERAl MANAGER-F. L. MAWDESLEY.
ACTUARY—W. L. NEWMAN.
HEAB OFFICE-ST. HELEN'S SQUARE, YORK.

TO H.M. WAR
ROBERT J.
i-^r^m^^ DEPARTMENT.
FARMER,
OPTICIAN,
51, CONEY STEEET, YORK.
MATHEMATICAL, PHYSICAL, & METEOROLOGICAL
INSTRUMENT MANUFACTURER.
SPECTACLES AND EYE-GLASSES
Made and Repaired on the Premises,
accurately prepared.
(LATE M. KLEISEE & 00.,)
WATCH AND CLOCK MAKERS,
JEWELLERS, &c.,
Corner of Little Stonegate,
WEDDING AND
BAHOMETEBS, SPECTACLES,
YORK.
FANCY RINGS.
8sc.
Clocks, Watches, and Jewellery
Cleaned and Repaired.

FURNITURE
HUNTEE & SMALLPAGE,
CABINETMAKERS,
Upholsterers, Carpet Warehous?:men,
aElTEEAL FUEITISIXEBS,
OAEVERS, GILDERS, & GLASS MERCHANTS,
Invite inspection of tlieir Stock of
CABINET FURNITURE
Of every description. The Drawingroom Furniture includes some elegant
Suites variously upholstered, Lounge Chairs, Cabinets, Chimney Glasses,
Over Mantels, Etageres, Whatnots, Brackets, «fec.
-^tc D I N I N G R O O M S U I T E S ^Ic^
In Oak, American Walnut, Mahogany, &c.
LIBRARY AND HALL FURNITURE.
BEDROOM SUITES.
Special attention is invited to the number of Suites in different woods,
and in the most approved designs, from Eight to Sixty Guineas, in addition
to the ordinary extensive Stock of Japanned, Birch, and Mahogany
Bedroom Furniture.
Inexpensive Furnituke adapted for Sittingrooms, Servants'
Bedrooms, &c.
BRASS & IRON BEDSTEADS, AND BEDDING.
In great variety from the best makers. Oriental and Sheepskin Hearthrugs,
Linoleums, Stair Rods, &c.
The newest Tapestry, Lace, and other Curtains ;
Reversible Cretonnes ; and
a choice selection of New Fabrics for upholstery purposes.
CORNICES, CORNICE POLES, 8c
FURNISHING IRONMONGERY.
CARVING AND GILDING.
Orders in this Department carefully executed upon the Premises by
Experienced Workmen. A large and choice Stock of Mouldings adapted
for framing every kind of picture. Re-gilding and re-silvering. Plate
and Sheet Glass, and Silvered Plates.
ALL GOODS DELIVERED CARRIAGE FREE.
CITY FURNISHING ESTABLISHMENT,
42 & 43, GOODRAMGATE, YORK.

Yorkshire Fine Art & Industrial Exhibition, 1879.
CONTINUED
SUCCESS
OF
WHEELER AND WILSON^S
SEWING MACHINES.
The HIGHEST AWARD (a Medal) for the superiority of
design and general applicability of their Sewing Machines.
Also obtained the only "GRAND PRIZE" awarded to
Sewing Machines at the late Paris Exhibition.
THE NEW HAND MACHINE, the most perfect and efficient
yet produced, with Cover complete ... ... £5 5s.
TREADLE MACHINES, from
£5 lOs.
Machines supplied on the Hire System, S/6 per week.
YORK DEPOT: 21, SPURRIERGATE.
Prospectuses sent Post Free.

B. JEFFERSON,
AND
GENERAL WAREHOUSEMAN,
THE
LONDON, BIRMINGHAM,
AND SHEFFIELD
MANCHESTER,
WAREHOUSE,
21, FOSSGATE, YORK.
Sole Manufacturer of
CELEBRATED ORIGINAL ROYAL YORK
BUTTE R-SCOTGH,
'
AS SUPPLIED TO THEIK
ROYAL HIGHNESSES THE PBINOE & PmOESS OP WALES-,
H.E.H.
ALSO TO
THE DUEE OF OAMBEIDGE.

ALVARA HUMPHREY,
ENGLISH AND FOEEIGN
11 and 12, Church Street and King's Square,
YOKK.
N.B.—A. H. begs to inform the public generally
and visitors to York that he has always a large and
well-assorted stock of YOEK HAMS, to which he
respectfully solicits inspection.
NOTE THE ABOVE ADDRES&
No connection with Stalls or Branch Establishments.

CITY
BEEWEEY, YOEK.
13) ej
Id
WINE AND SPIRIT IMPORTERS,
BEANCH ESTABLISHMENT
TO
CITY BREWERY: SPURRIERCIATE, TORE.
BRETT
BROTHERS'
CAPABILITIES AS
WINE AND SPIEIT MERCHANTS
MUST EVER REMAIN UNKNOWN TO YOU
BOTTLED ALES & STOUT.
POEEIGN & ENGLISH LIQUEUES.
All Brands of CHAMPAGNE, from 24/- per doz.:
And every class of WINE & SPIEITS, at Co-operative Prices for Cash.
Remittance with Order, or reference, will claim our special notice.
ONLY SHIPPEES OF OLARETAIEE, at 15/- per doz.
AGENTS FoF^Wrls "OP^^
Splendid tonic wine, highly esteemed througliout Europe for its refreshing
and restorati\re properties ; recommended by many physicians for
giving tone to the muscular and nervous systems, restoring the appetite
and digestion, and improving the general health. In Champagne Quarts,
2/6 per bottle. Please apply for Circulars to
BRETT BROTHERS, YORK.

GETTY RESEARCH INSTITUTE
3 3125 01451 7557