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THE<br />
PEACTICAL<br />
GUIDE<br />
TO THE<br />
CITY OF YORK<br />
AND ITS<br />
CATHEDEAL.<br />
ILLUSTKATED.<br />
YOEK:<br />
PRINTED BT BEN JOHNSON AND COMPANY,<br />
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YOBK,
PEEFAOE-<br />
In the compilation of this book, the author has<br />
endeavoured, as far as possible, to furnish accurate<br />
information to the visitor of such places of interest<br />
as are herein described, and as they at present exist.<br />
The historical portion is derived from a perusal of<br />
the most reliable<br />
sources, and is offered as the result<br />
of much careful labour and diligent research.<br />
From the limited scope of this work, it<br />
was necessary<br />
to be concise on many points where amplification<br />
would have been much more pleasant ; still, it is<br />
to be hoped it will supply a want long felt, viz., a<br />
trustworthy modern guide and handbook to<br />
the City<br />
of York.<br />
B. J.
CONTENTS.<br />
PAGE<br />
History of the City of York 1<br />
History of the Cathedral 13<br />
York Minster—Description (Exterior) 18<br />
„ „ (Interior) 22<br />
Plan of the Cathedral 38<br />
Celebrated Archbishops 40<br />
Minster Yard, Deanery, &c 41<br />
The Walls and Bars 44<br />
The Museum, Gardens, St. Mary's Abbey, &c. ... 48<br />
The Mansion House 54<br />
TheGuHdhall 55<br />
Arms and Government of the City... 68<br />
The Castle 68<br />
Churches 72<br />
Chapels ,80<br />
Almshouses and Hospitals 83<br />
Medical
ILLUSTEATIONS.<br />
Key-Map of the City.<br />
York Minster— North West View.<br />
Do.<br />
Do.<br />
Do .<br />
Interior View.<br />
Plan of.<br />
York Castle.<br />
Chapter-House.<br />
Micklegate Bar.<br />
Walmgate Bar.<br />
BooTHAM Bar.<br />
MoNKGATE Bar.<br />
Lodge and Entrance Gates to Museum Grounds,<br />
St.<br />
Mary's Abbey.<br />
Lendal Bridge.<br />
Fine Art Institution.<br />
City Arms,<br />
Cap of Maintenance, and Sword and Mace.<br />
Arms of the See, with Archbishop's Mitre.
...<br />
INDEX.<br />
PAGE<br />
Acomb 114<br />
Agar's Hospital 83<br />
Aldborough 118<br />
All Saints', North Street ... 72<br />
All Saints', Pavement 72<br />
Almshouses and Hospitals 83<br />
Ampleforth 118<br />
Archbishop de la Zouch's Chapel ... 36<br />
Archbishop Holgate's School ... 88<br />
Archbishops, Celebrated ... 40<br />
Arms of the City, The 68<br />
Artillery Volunteers 96<br />
Assembly Eooms, The 99<br />
Banks 106<br />
Baptist Chapel 80<br />
Barracks 94<br />
Barnard Castle 118<br />
Barstow's Hospital ... 83<br />
Baths 105<br />
Bedem, The ... 43<br />
BeU Tower, The South-West or ... 36<br />
Bell Window 37<br />
BeUs, The Peal of, Minster... 16, 36<br />
Bishopthorpe 114<br />
Blue Bridge ..103<br />
Blue Coat Boys' School 89<br />
Bolton Abbey 118<br />
Bonding Warehouses, The ... 104<br />
Bootham 108<br />
Bootham Bar 47<br />
Bootham Stray 106<br />
Boroughbridge 118<br />
Bramham 118<br />
Branch War Office 95<br />
Bridges, Markets, and Fairs ... 102<br />
Burial Grounds . ... 107<br />
Burton Picture Gallery, The ... 117<br />
Butchers' Market 104<br />
Byland Abbey 118<br />
Canons' Residence, The 42<br />
Cap of Maintenance, The ..v 54<br />
Castle Howard 118<br />
Castle Mills Bridge 104<br />
Castle, The ... 68<br />
Catholic Apostolic Church ... 80<br />
Cattle Fair, The 105<br />
Cattle Market, The 104<br />
Cavalry Barracks, The 94<br />
Cemetery, The 107<br />
Centenary Chapel 82<br />
Central Tower 23<br />
Chapter House, The ... 20, 33<br />
Choir, The 20, 27<br />
Cholera Burial Ground 107<br />
Christ Church 73<br />
Chronology of York Minster ... 17<br />
PAGE<br />
Church of England Library, &c. ... 94<br />
Churches ... 72<br />
City Club ... 110<br />
Clifford's Tower 69, 71<br />
CUfton ... 115<br />
Clubs 110<br />
Colton's Hospital 83<br />
Coney Street 108<br />
Conservative Club ... 110<br />
Convent of the Sisters of Charity 81<br />
Com Exchange 96<br />
Com Market 104<br />
County Assize Courts 70<br />
County Hospital 85<br />
Cowthorpe ... 118<br />
Coxwold 118<br />
Crypt, The 33<br />
,<br />
Davygate 108<br />
Deanery, The ... 42<br />
De Grey Eooms 96<br />
Description of the Minster—Exterior 18<br />
„ „ „ Interior 22<br />
Dimensions luteraaUy 89<br />
Dispensary 85<br />
Doncaster 119<br />
DriU HaU, The 95<br />
Dringhouses ... 115<br />
Easby Abbey 119<br />
East Window, The Great ... 31<br />
Ebenezer Chapel 80<br />
Ecclesiastical Estabhshment ... 39<br />
English Presbyterian Chapel ... 83<br />
Escrick .. 115<br />
Esplanade, The ... ... 113<br />
- 108<br />
Fairs ... 105<br />
Festival Concert Eoom, The .. 99<br />
Finkle Street<br />
*'<br />
Five Sisters " Window, The ... 24<br />
Foss Bridge 104<br />
Fountains Abbey 119<br />
Friendly Societies' Hall 96<br />
Friends' Boys' School 93<br />
Friends' Burial Ground... 107<br />
Friends' Girls' School ... 93-<br />
Friends' or Quakers' Meeting House 80<br />
Fulford 115<br />
General Produce Market 104<br />
GiUygate 108<br />
Girls' High School 98<br />
Goodramgate 109<br />
Government of the City 68<br />
Government School of Design ... 92.<br />
Grey Coat Girls' School 90<br />
GuHdhall, The 55
Index,<br />
yii<br />
PAGE<br />
Harrison's Hospital ... 83<br />
Harrogate... ... 119<br />
Haughton's Charity School 92<br />
Hay Weighs ... 105<br />
Helmsley 119<br />
Heslington ... ... 116<br />
Heslington Eoad Chapel 80<br />
Hewley's Hospital 83<br />
Heworth 116<br />
History of the Cathedral 13<br />
History of the City 1<br />
Hob Moor ... 106<br />
Holy Trinity, Goodramgate ... 73<br />
Holy Trinity, Micklegate ... 73<br />
Homoeopathic Dispensary ... ... 85<br />
Horn of Ulphus, The 34<br />
Horse Fair 105<br />
Hospitals 83<br />
Hospitium, The ... 53<br />
Hotels, The .. 110<br />
miey ... 119<br />
Independent Chapels 80<br />
Indulgence Cup .. 35<br />
Industrial School for Boys .,. 92<br />
Industrial School for Girls 92<br />
Infantry Barracks 94<br />
Ingram's Hospital ... 83<br />
. ..<br />
Institute for Trained Nurses ... 85<br />
•<br />
Institute Library 94<br />
Institute of Popular Science, &c. 93<br />
Institution for Diseases of the Bye 85<br />
Interest, Places of 113<br />
Invalid Eitchen ,.. 85<br />
Jewbury » 109<br />
Jubbergate ... 109<br />
Judges' Lodgings 97<br />
Kirkdale Cave 119<br />
Kirkham Abbey 119<br />
Knaresbrough 119<br />
Knavesmire ... ... . 106, 109<br />
Lady Chapel, The .. 30<br />
Lantern Tower, The 21<br />
Layerthorpe Bridge 104<br />
Layerthorpe Chapel ... 80<br />
Lendal ... 109<br />
Lendal Bridge ... 102<br />
Lendal Chapel 80<br />
Libraries ,. 93<br />
Liberal Club 110<br />
Literary 88<br />
Low Moor ... 107<br />
Maison Dieu 84<br />
Mansion House, The 54<br />
Manufactures and Commerce ... 110<br />
Markets 104<br />
Marston 116<br />
Marygate Tower 53<br />
Masonic HaU, The .,<br />
97<br />
Mason's Hospital... 84<br />
Medical ... 85<br />
Melbourne Terrace Chapel ... 82<br />
PAGE<br />
Merchant Tailors' HaU 98<br />
Merchant Tailors' Hospital ... 84<br />
Merchants' Hall 98<br />
Micklegate 109<br />
Micklegate Bar 45<br />
Micklegate Stray 106<br />
Middleton's Hospital 83<br />
Military 94<br />
Military Hospital 95<br />
Mihtia Depot 95<br />
Minster Bells . ... 16, 36<br />
Minster Library, The 42, 93<br />
Minster Yard, The ... 41<br />
Miscellaneous 105<br />
Monk Bar ... 47<br />
Monk Bridge 104<br />
Monk Stray 107<br />
Multangular Tower 48<br />
Museum, The, and Gardens ... 48<br />
National Provincial Bank 106<br />
Nave of Cathedral ... ... 20,25<br />
Newburgh Park 119<br />
Newspapers<br />
Ill<br />
New Street Chapel 82<br />
New Walk, The 113<br />
North Transept 23<br />
Nunnery Lane Mission House... 80<br />
Observatory, The 53<br />
Ogleforth 109<br />
Organ, The Choir 27<br />
Organ, The Nave 26<br />
Organ Screen, The ... 26<br />
Osbaldwick 117<br />
Ouse Bridge 102<br />
Pauper Lunatic Asylum, The ... 87<br />
Peal of BeUs, The 36<br />
Penitentiary, or Refuge ... ... 85<br />
Penny Bank 106<br />
Pig Market 105<br />
Pilgrim Street Chapel 82<br />
Plan of the Cathedral 38<br />
Pleasure Boats 110<br />
Pleasure Fairs ... 105<br />
Plumpton ... 119<br />
Police Station 68<br />
Pontefract 119<br />
Poor Clare Abbey 81<br />
Poor Law Offices 99<br />
Population ... ... 107<br />
Postal Telegraph Office 99<br />
Post Office 98<br />
Potato Market ... 105<br />
Primitive Methodist Chapels ... 80<br />
Primitive Methodist College ... 93<br />
Probate Registry 42<br />
Promenades 113<br />
Public Buildings 96<br />
Pubho Baths 105<br />
Railway Library and News Room ... 94<br />
Railway Station, The 107<br />
Red Tower 44<br />
Reference to Plan 89<br />
Refuge, or Penitentiary, The ... 85
viii<br />
Index.<br />
PAGE<br />
Kegistry of tne Diocese<br />
... 87<br />
itetreai, xne ... ,,, ... 86<br />
Iliclimond ... ... ... 119<br />
Eievaulx Abbey<br />
. 119<br />
Eifle Volunteers 95<br />
Hipon ... ... .•• ... 119<br />
Koman Catholic Ohapels^ &c. ... 80<br />
xtoyai bcnooi oi ot. ireter, Tne 88<br />
baleni Cnapel ••• 80<br />
Savings Bank .,, ,., 99, 106<br />
Scarborougli ... ,.. ... 120<br />
Scarborough Railway Bridge ... 102<br />
Scarcroft , 106<br />
School of Design ... ..« 92<br />
Scholastic and Literal^ ... 88<br />
Selby ... ... 120<br />
.<br />
Services J<br />
The IMinster ... ••. 37<br />
Skeldergate ...<br />
109<br />
Skeldergate Bridge •*• ... ... lUo<br />
ojiejiuun ... ..• ,,. 11/<br />
O^U-LXXclgctiuc ftvkn inn c^fctik \ o ... ... («• ... luy<br />
Staitns, ine ... ..• 109<br />
Statute Hirings ... 105<br />
Stonegate 109<br />
Strays ... 106<br />
Steamers 111<br />
Streets—Names and Architecture 108<br />
St. Andrew's Church 79<br />
St. Anthony's HaU<br />
... 89<br />
St. Catherine's Hospital<br />
84<br />
St. Clement ... .. 73<br />
St. Crux 74<br />
St. Cuthbert ... 74<br />
St Dennis 74<br />
St. George's Chapel ... 81<br />
St. Helen 75<br />
St. John .. 75<br />
St. Lawrence ... 75<br />
St. Leonard's Hospital 48<br />
... ...<br />
St. Margaret ... ... 75<br />
St. Martin, Coney Street ... ... 76<br />
St. Martin-cum-Gregory 76<br />
St. Mary's Abbey .. 51<br />
St. Mary, Bishophill Junior ... 77<br />
St. Mary, Bishophill Senior ... 77<br />
St. Mary, Castlegate<br />
76<br />
St. Mary's Abbey<br />
.. 51<br />
St. Mary's Convent 81<br />
St. Maurice .. 78<br />
St. Michael-le-Belfrey 78<br />
St. Michael's Hospital .. 84<br />
St. Michael, Spurriergate 78<br />
St. Olave .. 78<br />
St. Paul 79<br />
St. Peter's School ... 88<br />
St. Sampson 79<br />
St. Saviour .. 79<br />
St. Thomas 79<br />
St. Thomas's Hospital .. 84<br />
St. Wilfrid's (pro-Cathedral) ... 80<br />
St. William's College .. 43<br />
Swedenborgian 82<br />
Swimming Baths .. 105<br />
Tadcaster ... ... •.• 120<br />
PAGE<br />
rr,<br />
Temperance Club<br />
no<br />
Theatre Royal ., *<br />
lOQ<br />
Third West York ArtilleryVolunteers 96<br />
Thompson's Hospital ... ... 84<br />
Towers, The ... 35<br />
Treasury, The 36<br />
Trinity Hospital • ... 84<br />
Ulphus, The Horn of ...<br />
.<br />
34<br />
Unitarian Chapel<br />
'<br />
. ...<br />
82<br />
United, or Plymouth Brethren ... 82<br />
Vestry, The (Minster) 34<br />
Vicinity and Places of Interest 113, 117<br />
Victoria Bar Chapel ... 80<br />
Victoria HaU<br />
lOQ<br />
Villages ..<br />
114<br />
Walls and Bars, The 44<br />
Wahngate 109<br />
Walmgate Bar 46<br />
Wahngate Stray 107<br />
War Office 95<br />
Watter's Hospital 84<br />
Wandesford's, Hospital ,.: ... 84<br />
Wesley Chapel 82<br />
Wesleyan Methodist Chapels ... 82<br />
Wesleyan Methodist Free Church 83<br />
Wesleyan New Connexion Chapel ... 83<br />
Western Front, The (Minster)... 19<br />
Whip-ma-whop-ma-gate 109<br />
Whitby 120<br />
Will Office 21<br />
Wilson's Charity School ... 92<br />
Wilson's Hospital 85<br />
WUton Street School Chapel ... 82<br />
Window, The Great East 31<br />
Winterscale's Hospital 85<br />
Wool Market 105<br />
Yearsley Bridge Baths ... 108<br />
York and East Riding Bank ... 106<br />
York City and County Bank ... 106<br />
York Club .. ... 110<br />
York Diocesan Training Institution 88<br />
York Gas Light Company .... ... 100<br />
"York Herald," The<br />
Ill<br />
York Law Library 94<br />
York Lunatic Asylum, The ... 86<br />
York Minster ... 18<br />
York New Vv'aterworks Company 100<br />
York Poor Law Union Workhouse... 100<br />
York Probate Registry ... 42<br />
York Races 106<br />
York Rifle Volunteers ... ... 95<br />
York Subscription Library 93<br />
York Union Bank 106<br />
Yorkshire Bank 106<br />
*'<br />
Yorksliire Chronicle," The ... 113<br />
Yorkshire Club 110<br />
" Yorkshire Gazette," The ... 112<br />
Yorkshire Hussars,Yeomanry Cavalry 96<br />
Yorkshire Fine Art Institution ... 101<br />
Yorkshire Insurance Company.... 100<br />
Yorkshire School for the Bhnd, The 90<br />
Yorkshire Philosophical Society ... 49<br />
Young Men's Christian Association 94<br />
Zouch Chapel 36
;<br />
YOEK:<br />
HISTOEY OF THE CITY.<br />
The City of York is one of the most ancient, if not the<br />
oldest city in Britain, and according to historians, was a<br />
flourishing place 2000 years ago. It stands in the centre of<br />
a rich agricultural district called the vale of York, through<br />
which the river Ouse, strengthened by numerous tributaries,<br />
winds it^ way towards the Humber, flowing through the<br />
middle of the city, and running nearly due south. It is the<br />
capital of the largest county in England ; the most celebrated<br />
city of the North ; and situated nearly midway (both on the<br />
ancient Eoman road and the modern iron-way) between the<br />
English and the Scotch capitals, being 198 miles from one<br />
and 201 from the other. Its early history is lost in obscurity<br />
before the Christian era, it seems to have been a stronghold<br />
of the aborigines of the district. It is the see of an<br />
Archbishop, whose palace is in the immediate vicinity, and<br />
boasts the possession of the finest complete Gothic Cathedral<br />
in the world.<br />
Learned men differ as to the derivation of the name<br />
York ; but the one generally agreed upon is, that by the<br />
Brigantes or ancient Britons, the place was known as Ka'er<br />
Ebraue, Caer-Efroc, Ever-Wic, Yure-Wic ; the Danes called<br />
it Jorvick, from which it would easily become the modern<br />
York ; after which also this great county takes its name. By<br />
the Romans it was called Eboracum, and in Doomsday Book<br />
it is written Euerwic.<br />
The site seems to have been selected by Agricola, between<br />
seventy and eighty years after Christ, and by him made a<br />
military station of immense value and strength, as well as the<br />
capital of the North. Here was established the head- quarters<br />
of the sixth or conquering legion ; and hence it became the<br />
fixed residence of a wealthy colony of Roman citizens, who<br />
B
2<br />
(it is thought from the remains of<br />
buildings, palaces, baths,<br />
tesselated pavements, ornaments, &c., that have been, and are<br />
continually being found, whenever excavations are made),<br />
lived in all the luxury and grandeur that marked the zenith<br />
of the Roman empire no less than its decline and fall. The<br />
legion occupied its northern quarters for about three hundred<br />
years.<br />
Septimus Severus, the Eoman emperor, visited this, the<br />
most northern capital of his dominions, and died here about<br />
207. Constantius Chlorus also ruled and resided in York,<br />
where he died about 306, and was succeeded by his more<br />
celebrated son, Constantine the Great, to 'whom has been<br />
awarded the honour of introducing Christianity into this country<br />
(or, perhaps, more probably permitting it to be introduced),<br />
which is said to have been first preached at York, on the<br />
very ground where the present cathedral stands.<br />
York is rich in historical associations from the Roman<br />
some of<br />
period to the present day, and has been the scene of<br />
the most important events which have occurred in the history<br />
of Britain. After its evacuation by the Romans, it was soon<br />
over-run by the Picts and Scots, then by the Saxons, and<br />
ultimately by the Northmen (or Danes). At this time the<br />
city suffered from repeated sieges ;<br />
buildings were neglected<br />
and allowed to fall to pieces ; and everything was thrown<br />
back into a state of barbarism.<br />
Ambrosius, ihe king of Britain, about 470, held a council<br />
of princes and nobles here, and ordered all the destroyed<br />
churches to be rebuilt. Here King Arthur (the Renowned)<br />
kept, it is said, the first Christmas (or mass of Christ)<br />
that was ever kept in Britain (521), and rebuilt all the fallen<br />
churches. After that, troublous times set in ; and it is on<br />
record that the then bishop Thudiocus fled to Wales in 587<br />
from the persecution of the Saxons.<br />
At the establishment of the Heptarchy, York was the<br />
capital of Northumbria, the largest of the seven kingdoms,<br />
and remained so after the division of that kingdom into two<br />
provinces. The southern and more important of these provinces<br />
was Deira. From this district, a number of youths<br />
being taken captive, and exposed for sale in the slave-market<br />
at Rome, attracted the attention of Pope Gregory the Great,<br />
and caused him to send the priest Augustine to reconvert the
city<br />
3<br />
beniglited people to the Christian faith. In 621, Edwin<br />
ascended the throne at York as King of Northumbria, and in<br />
627, on Easter-day, was publicly baptised by Paulinus, a<br />
Eoman missionary, who very soon after became the first<br />
Archbishop of York.<br />
The celebrated library connected with the Minster was<br />
founded by Archbishop Egbert (731 to 767), and became,<br />
under the famous and learned Alcuin (in the time of Archbishop<br />
Albert, 7 67-782), one of the most valuable in the world.<br />
About the year 810, Egbert, king of Wessex, after being<br />
engaged in a variety of struggles, and having surmounted<br />
many difficulties, succeeded in obtaining the supreme dominion,<br />
and uniting the seven kingdoms of the Heptarchy into one<br />
monarchy. The Northumbrians, however, being more remote<br />
from the influence of his successors, soon asserted their independence,<br />
and raised Osbert to the throne at York. The<br />
northern kingdom now suffered for many years from internal<br />
divisions and ravages of the Danes, who, in 867, defeated<br />
and killed Osbert in a battle near York, and committed<br />
frightful atrocities in the city. The Danes thus wrested Northumbria<br />
from the Saxons, after they had possessed it for about<br />
three hundred years ;<br />
but, in 910, Edward the Elder obtained<br />
a complete victory over them, killing two of their kings and<br />
several thousand soldiers.<br />
After many turbulent years of bloody revolutions, Northumbria<br />
was, in 951, reduced by Edred to an earldom,<br />
York still continuing its capital .<br />
;<br />
Osulf, an Angk>-<br />
Saxon, was the first earl. He was joined by Oslac in the<br />
following reign in the government ; but their authoritywas<br />
subsequently united in the person of Waltheof, th.3<br />
second earl. The principal earls of Northumbria were:<br />
Siward, a man of extraordinary strength and valour ;<br />
Tostig, brother of King Harold ;<br />
and Morcar, who was<br />
reigning earl at the Conquest. Siward died here in 1055,<br />
and was buried near the Minster, or, as some historians say,<br />
at Galmanho, now St. Olaves, in Marygate. It is related of<br />
him that, being brought to the last extremity by disease, he<br />
exclaimed : Oh, what a shame is it for me who have<br />
escaped death in so many battles, to die like a beast at last<br />
Put me on my coat of mail, gird on my sword, place on my<br />
helmet, give me my shield and axe ;<br />
thus, as a valiant soldier
4<br />
have I lived, even so will I die ! " His friends obeyed the<br />
injunction, and the gallant spirit of the old man passed<br />
away.<br />
After the death of Edward the Confessor (1066), the<br />
crown was seized by Harold<br />
;<br />
but, Hardrada Harfager, King<br />
of Norway, with Tostig,. Earl of Northumberland, soon<br />
appeared on the scene to dispute his claim. The invaders<br />
sailed up the Humber with a large fleet, landed at Riccal,<br />
and marched upon York, which they took by storm after the<br />
battle of Fulford ;<br />
but, a few days after, were themselves<br />
defeated and slain at the memorable battle of Stamford<br />
Bridge. Harold, whilst celebrating his success at York,<br />
heard of the landing of William of Normandy at Hastings, and<br />
was himself killed a few days after his northern victory, at the<br />
battle of Battle in Sussex ; and with him fell the power of the<br />
Anglo-Saxons. In 1068, William the Conqueror marched<br />
upon York, and, taking the city without any difficulty, he<br />
strengthened his power here by building the castle-keep,,<br />
known as Clifford's Tower, and also by the erection of a<br />
second fortress on Baile Hill, on the south side of the river.<br />
At this time, a desperate attempt was made by the inhabitants<br />
of Northumbria to dispute the Conqueror's power ;<br />
the city<br />
was set on fire, when the Cathedral with its famous library<br />
was completely destroyed.<br />
At the time of the Doomsday survey (1084-1086, twenty<br />
years after the Norman conquest), York contained about<br />
ten thousand inhabitants, at that time considered a large<br />
and populous city. During the reign of King Stephen, in<br />
1137, the Cathedral was again burnt to the ground, together<br />
with St. Mary's Abbey, the Hospital of St. Leonard, thirtynine<br />
parish churches, and the greater part of the city.<br />
In the following year (1138), David of Scotland devastated<br />
the country as far as York, but was himself defeated at<br />
the celebrated Battle of the Standard, near Northallerton,<br />
leaving ten thousand dead on the field. In the reign<br />
of Henry II., the first English parliament was held at York<br />
(about 1156), Henry at the same time receiving the homage<br />
of Malcolm of Scotland; and also in 1174 the parliament<br />
met again in this city.<br />
The dreadful massacre of the Jews took place here soon after<br />
the accession to the throne of Richard I., when nearly one<br />
thousand men, women, and children lost their lives by fire and
-<br />
sought<br />
5<br />
sword, throngli the blind rage of an infuriate mob, led on by<br />
a fanatical hermit, who called upon his listeners to exterminate<br />
the enemies of Christ. The Jews mostly lived in<br />
Jubbergate and Jewbury ; were large traders, and possessed of<br />
great wealth. One of the wealthiest and most influential members<br />
of this persecuted race, named Benet, had been recently<br />
killed in London. A body of armed men made an assault<br />
upon his house in York, which they plundered, murdering<br />
his wife and children. On the following day most of the<br />
Jewish inhabitants, with their families, their gold, precious<br />
stones, costly garments, and all their moveable valuables,<br />
refuge in the Castle, which was, by order of the<br />
warden and sheriffs, besieged by the excited populace. The<br />
siege was continued for several days ;<br />
but, on the day fixed<br />
for the final assault, the Jews, rather than be taken, and<br />
fearing a worse death, set fire to the Castle, first destroying<br />
all the wealth they could, then, with the exception of a few,<br />
killing each other. Those remaining offered to surrender<br />
and become Christians ; but were barbarously murdered by<br />
the victorious citizens on entering the Castle the following<br />
morning, who then went to the Minster, obtained the registers<br />
of money lent by the Jews to the leading men of the city and<br />
neighbourhood, and having made a bonfire in the nave,<br />
burnt the whole of the documents.<br />
King John, and also Henry III., frequently visited York<br />
;<br />
during their reigns, several parliaments assembled here.<br />
The latter-named monarch celebrated Christmas here with<br />
great splendour in 1251, when Margaret, his daughter, was<br />
married in the Cathedral to Alexander III., King of Scotland,<br />
neither bride nor bridegroom being quite eleven years old.<br />
Under Edward I. parliament was held twice in York ; and<br />
the courts of justice, Doomsday Book, and other valuable<br />
documents were removed to this city from London. In 1311,<br />
Edward II. kept Christmas here, and caused the city walls to<br />
be fortified. Edward III. often visited this ancient city. -In<br />
1327, he spent Christmas here ; and in the following January<br />
was married in the Cathedral to Philippa, aged fourteen,<br />
daughter of William of Hainault, Edward having attained the<br />
more mature age of sixteen years. The ceremony was celebrated<br />
with much pomp and splendour. The bride was<br />
accompanied by a large body of armed retainers from Hainault,<br />
and the King by his Council and the flower of the English
nobility, then in arms. A terrible quarrel between the<br />
foreigners assembled in York and the English broke out.<br />
They fought without Walmgate Bar, when 527 foreigners<br />
and 242 Enghsh lost their lives, after which peace was<br />
restored. Edward, being of a warlike disposition, had the<br />
city walls and towers thoroughly repaired, strengthened,<br />
and put in a complete state of defence. Twenty years later,<br />
Queen Philippa again entered the city, after the battle of<br />
Neville's Cross, with David Bruce, of Scotland, her prisoner.<br />
In 1389, the youthful Eang Richard II. visited York, to<br />
settle a dispute between the Archbishop and clergy on the<br />
one hand, and the mayor and citizens on the other. It was<br />
on this occasion that Richard took his sword from his side<br />
and presented it to William de Selby, then mayor, to be borne<br />
before him and his successors for ever, with the point<br />
erect, except in the presence of the crown, conferring, at the<br />
same time, the title of " Lord Mayor," which his successors<br />
have ever since retained<br />
"<br />
. My Lord is a Lord for a year and a day<br />
But my Lady's a Lady for ever and aye."<br />
A few years afterwards, Richard presented a mace to the<br />
liOrd Mayor,<br />
and a cap of maintenance to the sword-bearer.<br />
All these venerable insignia of office may be seen in the<br />
Mansion-house, the official residence of the chief magistrate,<br />
and are always used by him to the present day on public or<br />
state occasions. In 1392, the courts of chancery and king's<br />
bench were held in York, but only remained here about<br />
six months.<br />
Few English cities passed through more numerous and<br />
violent changes than did the City of York during the wars of<br />
the Roses. Through the influence of the noble houses of<br />
Neville, Percy, and Scrope, the citizens became involved in<br />
quarrels, opposed to the reigning monarch Henry IV., by whom<br />
a royal mandate was issued, forfeiting the municipal rights<br />
and liberties of the citizens, and by the same act the justly<br />
celebrated Scrope, Archbishop of York, lost his life. He<br />
was beheaded in a field near to Bishopthorpe, and his head,<br />
together with that of Thomas Mowbray, Earl Marshal of<br />
England, who suffered with him, was placed on a spear above<br />
the walls of the city. In a very short time the rights of the<br />
citizens were restored to them. The head of Richard Plan-
7<br />
tagenet, Duke of York, who was slain at the battle of Wakefield<br />
in 1460, was brought to York, covered with a paper crown,<br />
and stuck on a pole over Micklegate Bar with the face towards<br />
the city, that " York might overlook the town of<br />
York, " in company with that of the Earl of Salisbury, and<br />
many others of the Yorkist party. Whilst the dreadful battle<br />
of Towton Field was being fought, on the 29th March, 1461,<br />
Henry VI. and his Queen were staying in the northern capital,<br />
who, on hearing the disastrous news, instantly fled to Scotland.<br />
Eichard's son and heir, Edward Duke of York^ immediately<br />
marched upon the city; took down the Yorkist heads and<br />
replaced them with those of the Lancastrian Earls of Devon<br />
and Wiltshire. In 1464, Edward lY. was crowned with<br />
regal magnificence on the 4th May, in the Cathedral. In<br />
1483, Eichard III., of opprobious memory, marched to York<br />
with a numerous retinue on hearing of the death of the King,<br />
in order to establish his power more firmly in the north, and<br />
had a solemn requiem sung in the Minster for the soul of<br />
his dead brother. Under the Tudors, the city passed through<br />
many vicissitudes of fortune, especially during the attempted<br />
rebellion of Lambert Simnel and his co-conspirators. In<br />
1503, Margaret, daughter of Henry VII., passed through<br />
York in royal state on her northward journey to become the<br />
bride of James IV. of Scotland. About 1505-6, during the<br />
reign of Henry VIL, the first printing-press was erected here<br />
by Hugo Goez. In 1513, the body of James IV. of Scotland<br />
was brought to York after the battle of Flodden Field, where<br />
he and the flower of his nobility fell. In 1536, Henry VIIL<br />
inflicted a most severe blow on the wealth and property of the<br />
religious orders in this country by the suppression of the<br />
abbeys and monasteries, which was the cause of the rising of<br />
the people in rebellion known as the Pilgrimage of Grace,"<br />
led by one Eobert Aske, of Aughton, a few miles from York,<br />
who marched upon York and Hull with forty thousand men,<br />
and took both places. This insurrection was speedily suppressed,<br />
but was shortly succeeded by a second. Henry<br />
visited York in 1541, remaining twelve days ;<br />
he at this<br />
time established the famous council of the north, the first<br />
president of which was Thomas, Duke of Norfolk. The ofiice<br />
of this court was to hear and determine all causes on the north<br />
side of the Trent. It continued in force till the reign of
8<br />
Charles I. The Lord President resided in the Manor House,<br />
now the Wilberforce School for the Blind near to Bootham<br />
Bar ; the council held its sittings at the Guildhall. In 1572,<br />
the Earl of Northumberland was beheaded in the Pavement,<br />
and his head set on a pole on Micklegate Bar for the part he<br />
took in the last rebellious attempt made by the Roman<br />
Catholics to establish their power in England, which is called<br />
the Rising of the North." In 1608, James VI. of Scotland<br />
passed through the city on his way to London to receive the<br />
English crown ; he stayed three or four days, was lodged in<br />
the Manor House and attended the Minster services several<br />
times. In 1617, he again visited York, when he attended<br />
service at the Minster. In 1639, Charles I. stayed in York<br />
some three or four weeks on his way to meet the Covenanters<br />
of Scotland, spending the time in marshalling his army. The<br />
following year a great council of peers met, and held its<br />
meetings in the Deanery, under the presidency of the king.<br />
In 1641, the council of the north was abolished. Charles<br />
again came in 1642, fixing his residence at the Mansion<br />
House, then close to the Minster, and stayed five months in<br />
the city, during which time the state printing-press was<br />
brought from London and erected in St. William's College,<br />
near the Cathedral. In 1644, York was fully garrisoned,<br />
and put in a complete state of defence, guns being placed on<br />
the walls and gates under the command of the Marquis of<br />
Newcastle. Early in this year the Parliamentarian army, under<br />
the command of the Earl of Manchester, assisted by Scotch<br />
allies, lay siege to and completely invested the city, several<br />
batteries being erected so as to command it from different<br />
points, and placed under the orders of Sir Thomas Fairfax,<br />
Earl of Leven, Cromwell, and others. For twenty-two days<br />
the troops and citizens within the walls defended it with great<br />
spirit and valour. Charles, well knowing how important it<br />
was to retain possession of such a stronghold, sent Prince<br />
Rupert with twenty thousand men to its relief. On his<br />
approach, the Parliamentarian army withdrew to Marston<br />
Moor, where it was followed shortly after<br />
by Prince Rupert,<br />
and on July 2nd the deadly battle was fought, which<br />
brought ruin to the royalist cause, this being the last of<br />
many battles fought for the possession of the City of York.<br />
On the 16th July, 1644, it was formally surrendered to the
BOOTHAM BAR, YORK
9<br />
Tictorious army, whose generals immediately repaired to the<br />
Minster and offered up their thanksgivings for so great a<br />
success. The city suffered severely during the siege, many<br />
houses being laid in ruins, but the Cathedral escaped with<br />
very little damage. Markham, in his life of the great general,<br />
says, no Cathedral in England suffered less from the civil<br />
war than York Minster, and the immunity was due to the<br />
unceasing watchfulness of Sir Thomas Fairfax, to whom<br />
Yorkshire owes a debt of gratitude for his thoughtful care<br />
of her proudest monument." In 1650, Cromwell stayed one<br />
night in the city as a guest of the Lord Mayor. In 1660, on<br />
the 1 1th May, Charles II. was proclaimed by the Lord Mayor<br />
as King of England with great ceremony; bells were rung and<br />
cannon fired in royal salutes from Clifford's tower, the city<br />
being brilliantly illuminated at night. In 1665, the Duke of<br />
York, afterwards James II., resided here two months. In 1684,<br />
Charles deprived the Corporation of its Charter, and thereby<br />
engendered a feeling of enmity and discontent. Shortly after<br />
this the black Jefferies attended the assize at York as one of<br />
the judges, and informed the Lord Mayor and citizens that<br />
the king expected to have the government of the city at his<br />
own disposal. The Charter was finally restored in 1688 by<br />
the Prince of Orange. Clifford's tower was reduced to ruins<br />
b)y the explosion of the powder magazine in 1684, and does<br />
not seem to have been repaired since, otherwise than to keep<br />
the walls from falling. In 1688, the city was seized by the<br />
Earl of Danby on behalf of the Protestant succession, and<br />
early in the following year, William Prince of Orange and<br />
Mary his wife were proclaimed King and Queen of England<br />
by the Lord Mayor, in the presence of many thousands of<br />
spectators. During the subsequent winter, a large force of<br />
Danish soldiers in the service of England occupied York<br />
whilst on their way to join Wilham in Ireland.<br />
We now enter upon more peaceful times ; the military history<br />
of York may be said to end with the bloodless revolution<br />
of 1688. In the reign of Charles II., coaches were first run<br />
between York and London in four days, and also to Hull. In<br />
1727, Daniel Defoe visited York, and made it the birthplace<br />
of his most celebrated hero, ^' Eobinson Crusoe." In 1737,<br />
Drake published his "Eboracum," and speaks of York as "one<br />
of the pleasantest cities in England." In 1745, the year of
10<br />
the Young Pretender," the city showed its readiness to defend<br />
the established religion and Hanoverian government. In 1791 ^<br />
the first musical festival was held in the Minster.<br />
Nothing worthy of note occurred in the latter half of the<br />
18th century, beyond exciting political contests for the<br />
representation of the county. In 1820, the present Ouse<br />
Bridge was opened, the foundation stone having been<br />
laid in 1810. In 1822, the Yorkshire Philosophical Society<br />
was founded, of which the Eev. W. V. Harcourt, M.A.,<br />
F.E.S., was the first president, and in 1830, its handsome<br />
museum was opened to the public. In 1823, the second<br />
musical festival was held in the Cathedral, there being 465<br />
performers. The British Association for the Advancement<br />
of Science held its first meeting here in 1831, on<br />
the 27th Sept., when upwards of 350 of the most eminent<br />
men of the day from all parts of the kingdom assembled for<br />
the purpose of forming the above named institution. In<br />
1835, the last musical festival was held, when there were 618<br />
performers ; it was attended by the Duchess of Kent with her<br />
daughter, the Princess Victoria (our present Queen), then on<br />
a visit to the Archbishop at his palace at Bishopthorpe. The<br />
first passenger railway train ran into York on the 29th May,<br />
1839, and in 1841, the old railway station in Tanner Eow<br />
was opened.<br />
In 1846, July 21st, the Archaeological Institute of Great<br />
Britain and Ireland held its annual meeting here, under<br />
the presidency of Earl Fitzwilliam. In 1848, the Eoyal<br />
Agricultural Society's Show, on Bootham Stray, was visited<br />
by Prince Albert and other illustrious personages. In<br />
1850, a grand banquet was given in the Guildhall on<br />
the 26th October, by the Lord Mayor and Corporation,<br />
to Prince Albert, the Lord Mayor of London, and the<br />
Mayors of the different Corporations in England, in aid of<br />
the great Exhibition held in London the following year<br />
(1851), when the most fairy-like building in the world,<br />
the first Crystal Palace, was erected. This banquet was<br />
signalized by the preparation of one dish, which alone<br />
cost one hundred guineas. In 1866, the Prince and Princess<br />
of Wales visited York, to grace with their presence<br />
the Yorkshire Fine Art and Industrial Exhibition. The<br />
royal visitors were the guests of His Grace the Arch-
11<br />
bishop, at tlie Palace, Bishopthorpe. York gave a right royal<br />
greeting to their Eoyal Highnesses; the Ouse Bridge, most<br />
artistically decorated, was, together with the rest of the city^<br />
brilliantly illuminated in the evening. The illustrious visitors<br />
attended the Yorkshire Agricultural Society's Show, then being<br />
held on Knavesmire, and also a grand review of the whole of<br />
the Volunteers of Yorkshire on the Race- ground, when, it is<br />
said, more people came to York thaii was ever known to have<br />
visited it before in one day. The exhibition was held in a<br />
temporary building erected in Bootham Field, in front of the<br />
County Asylum. It was opened by the Archbishop of York,<br />
on the 24th July, and closed on the 2nd November, and<br />
was attended by 380,590 persons. The value of the exhibits<br />
was roughly calculated at £250,000. The total receipts were<br />
£13,800 ;<br />
and, after all expenses were paid, with some gratuities,<br />
a surplus of £2000 was left as the nucleus of a<br />
fund to be afterwards subscribed towards a permanent art<br />
gallery.<br />
On 25th September, 1873, a grand banquet was given in<br />
the Guildhall, by joint subscription of the provincial mayors<br />
and corporations of England, to the Lord Mayor of London,<br />
who attended in state, accompanied by the Sheriffs of London,<br />
en grande tenue, with coaches, trumpeters, and other paraphernalia;<br />
the whole of the provincial mayors and townclerks,<br />
two hundred and sixty in number, being dressed in<br />
their robes and decorated with the gold chains and insignia<br />
of office.<br />
The corner-stone of the new Exhibition building was laid<br />
by the Lord Mayor, on Easter Monday, 22nd April, 1878.<br />
The Exhibition was formally opened by His Grace the<br />
Archbishop of York, on the 7th of May, 1879, and continued<br />
until November 8th. During this period it was visited by<br />
550,000 persons, from whom the sum of £17,336 17s. 3d.<br />
was received, in addition to £1791 12s. Id. from other<br />
sources. It consisted of rare examples of old and modern<br />
masters (including the whole of the celebrated Feversham<br />
gallery), water-colours, statuary, articles of vertu, manufactures,<br />
machinery, &c.<br />
The building has now been establised as the Yorkshire Fine<br />
Art and Industrial Institution, with the object of encouraging<br />
art and industry.
12<br />
It is presumed, the visitor to York will arrive by railway,<br />
and that his thoughts and attention will first be turned<br />
to the Cathedral; if so, he will enter the city by the<br />
new railway arch in the walls near to the old Station Hotel,<br />
and taking the road to the left, cross the river by Lendal<br />
Bridge, a handsome structure of iron, continuing past the<br />
Yorkshire Club-house, a building in the Italian style, on the<br />
right and overlooking the river. Immediately adjoining,<br />
and at the corner of Lendal, are the York Club Chambers<br />
in the Elizabethan or mixed style. On the left, opposite<br />
the Club-house and close to the river, is Lendal Tower,<br />
one of the ancient fortifications of the city ;<br />
from this tower<br />
to that on the south side of the river, in ancient times, an<br />
iron chain used to be hung every night at dusk to prevent<br />
the citizens being surprised. From 1682 to 1850, Lendal<br />
Tower was used by the Water Works Company, whose<br />
offices are now close by. The city walls, it will be noticed,<br />
commence on this side very near the tower, and formerly<br />
joined it. Directly opposite the end of Lendal is the lodge<br />
and entrance gates to the grounds of the Yorkshire Philosophical<br />
Society. The Hospital of St. Leonard's will be seen<br />
through the iron palisades close to the gates. In Museum<br />
Street, on the opposite side of the road, is the entrance<br />
to the Festival Concert Eoom, a very magnificent hall, where,<br />
as its name indicates, concerts are held. A few yards beyond<br />
are the offices of the Poor-Law Guardians, and at the corner<br />
of Blake Street is the Subscription News-room. Crossing the<br />
end of Blake Street, there is an open space, fenced off with<br />
a neat iron railing, within which stands the Masonic Hall.<br />
Immediately opposite, on the left-hand side of Duncombestreet,<br />
is the Roman Catholic pro- Cathedral Church of St.<br />
Wilfrid, with its highly ornate door-way.<br />
The visitor will now have a splendid view of the glorious<br />
Minster. Approaching the south-west front through Duncombe-street,<br />
the imposing grandeur of the western towers,<br />
capped by the colossal size and great height of the central<br />
tower, flanked by the flying buttresses of the nave, strikes the<br />
eye of the beholder with the wonderful unanimity of style, the<br />
vast strength, the grand proportions, and enormous size of<br />
the sacred structure.
HISTORY OF THE CATHEDEAL.<br />
On the site of the present building, Christianity was revived<br />
in this northern Kingdom by Paulinus, who had been sent<br />
by Augustine, Archbishop of Canterbury, and succeeded in<br />
the conversion of Edwin, the King of Northumbria, to the new<br />
faith, who was publicly baptised on Easter Sunday, the 12th<br />
April, 627, in a little wooden oratory erected on this spot.<br />
Shortly after, Edwin commenced to buUd a larger church ot<br />
stone, dedicated to St. Peter, but which he di.d not live to see<br />
completed, being slain in a great battle agamst Pewcto, the<br />
pagan King of Mercia. The country was immediately<br />
overrun will pagans, and the church of Edwm destroyed<br />
Paulinus fled to the Christian kingdom of Kent, taking with<br />
him Ethelburga, widow of the king. The head of Edwin was<br />
afterwards recovered, and buried within the walls of the<br />
church which he founded, his body being deposited m the<br />
monastery at Whitby. About 636, Oswald succeeded in<br />
expelling the Mercians; resuscitated and firmly established<br />
Christianity; restored the Minster; but was himself soon after<br />
killed in another great battle with the invaders under Penda.<br />
This monarch detested the religion of Christ and the temples<br />
erected to His worship, and proceeded to demolish the<br />
Cathedral and churches. He was, however, shortly afterwards<br />
slain in battle (655), and the Minster completely<br />
restored by Oswy, brother of Oswald, who also founded<br />
twelve other churches in different parts of Northumbria.<br />
Shortly after this, Ulphus, a prince of Deira, the southern<br />
part of Northumbria (now the East Eiding of Yorkshire)<br />
gave all his lands, together with his horn, to the Cathedral<br />
Church of York. This horn can be seen in the vestry ot the<br />
Cathedral. In 669, the Minster was in an exceedingly<br />
dilapidated condition; but Archbishop Wilfrid put it into<br />
thorough repair, covered the roof with lead, and put glass m<br />
the windows—the first instance recorded of that material<br />
being used in this country. In 741, the Minster was nearly<br />
burnt to the ground. In 767, Albert, Archbishop of York<br />
(a native of the city), founded it anew, and assisted by the<br />
learned Alcuin rebuilt the Cathedral in the finest style of<br />
Saxon architecture; it was consecrated on the 8th JNov.,
14<br />
In 867, the kingdom of Northumbria was overthrown<br />
the by<br />
Danes who now ruled in East Angha. Guthrum,<br />
one ot the Danish kings, reigned at York from 822 to 896<br />
but having •<br />
been conquered by Alfred the Great, was baptized<br />
at Jork Minster, King Alfred acting as his sponsor and<br />
giving him the name of Athelstane. During one of the sieges<br />
at the time of the Norman conquest, the Cathedral was again<br />
burnt to the ground; it was, however, rebuilt about 1080 on<br />
a larger scale in the Norman style by Archbishop Thomas,<br />
who had been appointed to the see by the Conqueror. In the<br />
reign of Stephen (1137), it was again seriously damaged by<br />
hre, and for forty years little was done towards its restoration<br />
however, about 1171, Archbishop Roger rebuilt the choir in<br />
the Norman style to correspond with the rest of the building<br />
The present erection dates from 1215, when Walter de<br />
Grey ascended the archiepiscopal throne, who, being dissatished<br />
with the Cathedral as it then stood, determined to build<br />
one on a grander and more extensive scale. Accordingly he<br />
commenced with the present south transept, which he lived to<br />
see completed, about 1240. The north transept was built by<br />
John le Eomayne, treasurer to the Cathedra], about 1250,<br />
who also built a beU tower, now replaced by the great lantern<br />
tower. Archbishop le Eomayne, son of the treasurer, pulled<br />
down the old Norman nave, and laid the foundation-stone of<br />
the present one on 6th April, 1291, which, with the magnihcent<br />
west front, was completed by Archbishop Melton—<br />
the stone-work in 1345 and the roof in 1355. The great<br />
west window was fiUed with glass in 1338 at the expense of<br />
Archbishop Melton, who gave one hundred marks for the<br />
purpose. During the building of the nave, the present<br />
chapter-house was erected ; but the name of its founder or<br />
the exact dates are not known. From the florid or decorated<br />
style of its architecture, it is not likely that it would be completed<br />
before the middle of the fourteenth century ; and<br />
from the bear, which was a device of Francis Fitzurse, the<br />
treasurer, being used upon it as an ornament, it may be<br />
mferred that he took a prominent part in its erection. The<br />
Norman choir was next doomed; and in 1361, Archbishop<br />
Thoresby laid the foundation-stone of the present choir,<br />
beginning at the Lady chapel. This was finished prior to this<br />
prelate's death in 1373 ; the remainder of the choir was not
15<br />
completed till 1400. The present main or central lantern-tower<br />
was commenced about 1405, by recasing and enlarging the<br />
height of the bell-tower of John le Romayne. The bells were<br />
taken down, and lay idle thirty years. Being necessary to find<br />
another place for them, it was decided to build two towers at the<br />
west end. The south-west tower in which are the bells was<br />
commenced about 1432, by John de Bermyngham, treasurer.<br />
The north-west tower, in which the great bell "Peter" is<br />
hung, was completed about 1470. In 1472, the edifice as it<br />
now stands being finished was duly reconsecrated on the 8rd<br />
February, by Archbishop Neville. This day was afterwards<br />
observed as the feast of the dedication. The whole time<br />
occupied in the erection of the present building being about<br />
two hundred and forty-four years. From this period to the<br />
Eeformation there does not seem to have been much alteration<br />
;<br />
but, at the change in the form of worship in Henry<br />
VIII.'s time, most of the chantries (forty in number) and<br />
altars, with the shrine of St. William, were removed. Some<br />
of these were again restored in Queen Mary's time. During<br />
the Commonwealth it suffered comparatively little, though it<br />
is said that Cromwell quartered his cavalry in the Minster,<br />
the nave being turned into stables for the horses, at which<br />
time a great deal of the ancient glass was ruthlessly destroyed.<br />
In 1736, the present pavement was laid down under the<br />
direction of the Earl of Burlington.<br />
On September 23rd, 1828, a musical festival was held in<br />
the nave, for the benefit of the Hospital at York and the<br />
Infirmaries at Leeds, Sheffield, and Hull, when ^7200 was<br />
realised. There were two hundred and eighty-five vocal and<br />
one hundred and eighty instrumental performers. In September<br />
of 1825, a second festival was held ; and again, in the<br />
corresponding month of 1828, a third festival, at which two<br />
hundred instrumental and three hundred and sixty-three vocal<br />
performers discoursed sacred music from the oratorios.<br />
On February 2nd, 1829, the choir was set on fire by<br />
Jonathan Martin, who had concealed himself after evening<br />
service on the previous day (Sunday) behind Archbishop<br />
Grenefield's tomb, in the eastern aisle of the north transept.<br />
The choir was completely gutted ; the beautiful carved woodwork,<br />
stalls, pulpit, organ, archbishop's throne, roof, and a<br />
^reat quantity of the stonework being destroyed. The east
16<br />
window was saved with very great difficulty.<br />
Martin escaped<br />
by ropes taken from the belfry, through the far window in<br />
the north transept. He was shortly after taken at Hexham,<br />
tried at York assizes, acquitted on the plea of insanity, and<br />
died in New Bethlehem Hospital, London, in 1838.<br />
The building was restored by national subscription at a<br />
cost of £65,000, under the care of Sir Robert Smirke. The<br />
timber and lead were given by the Government, and the<br />
stone by Sir Edward Vavasour, from quarries on his<br />
estate near Tadcaster. A new organ was presented by the<br />
Earl of Scarborough, and the communion-plate by the Archbishop.<br />
On May 6th, 1832, the Cathedral was opened<br />
for public worship. On the 20th May, 1840, through the<br />
carelessness of a workman, the building again suffered from<br />
fire. The south-west bell-tower, together with the roof of the<br />
nave, were entirely destroyed. A second subscription was<br />
set on foot, and the damage repaired by Mr. Sidney Smirke,<br />
at a cost of £23,000. In 1843, through the liberal bequest<br />
of Dr. Beckwith, a new peal of bells costing £2000 was<br />
placed in the south-west tower. In 1845, a* monster bell,<br />
"Peter"—the largest but one in England—was purchased<br />
by public subscription, and placed in the north-west tower,<br />
which, it is said, is not strong enough to allow the bell to be<br />
rung in the usual way.<br />
In 1860, the organ on the screen was remodelled. In the<br />
following year, the building was warmed by patent stoves,<br />
the choir lighted with gas from the clerestory, and the chapterhouse<br />
restored externally, at the cost of Dean Duncombe.<br />
In 1863, the nave was fitted up with moveable benches,<br />
choir-seats, and organ, and also lighted with gas in a similar<br />
manner to the choir. In 1874, the south transept, the oldest<br />
part of the building, was completely restored internally by<br />
public subscription, costing £10,000.<br />
The fiddler was removed from his turret in 1879, and the<br />
whole of the facade of the south entrance renewed in<br />
accordance with the original design, being completed in 1880.<br />
The best exterior view of the Minster is to be had from the<br />
City Walls, between Victoria Bar and the south-east bastion,<br />
near Clementhorpe : the finest interior view is from the west<br />
entrance, about half-way up the nave.
17<br />
THE<br />
Chronology of the Erection of York Minster,<br />
ACCOEDING TO THE LATE Mr. BrOWNE.<br />
Section of Cathedral. Date. Archbishops. Kings. Architecture.<br />
Church of Stone com. .<br />
Greatly injured by Fire .<br />
A.D.<br />
627<br />
670<br />
741<br />
Paulinus<br />
Wilfrid<br />
Egbert<br />
Edwin<br />
Oswy<br />
Eadbert .<br />
Saxon.<br />
Saxon.<br />
Rebuilt (Nave, Transepts,<br />
&c.) .. )<br />
1080<br />
Thomas<br />
WiUiam I.<br />
Norman.<br />
Injured by Fire .<br />
1137<br />
Thurstan .<br />
Stephen .<br />
Rebuilt or repaired,<br />
Choir and Crypt<br />
j<br />
1170<br />
Eoger<br />
Henry II. .<br />
Late Norman.<br />
The Present Cathedral.<br />
So. Transept erected,about<br />
North Transept erected<br />
Chapter-house . .<br />
Vestibule to Chapter- {<br />
house . . . . (<br />
j<br />
j<br />
1220<br />
1250<br />
1270<br />
1280<br />
1340<br />
1335<br />
1350<br />
Walter de Grey<br />
Walter de Grey<br />
\<br />
Walter Giffard j<br />
William Wykewane<br />
William Melton .<br />
William Melton<br />
Wm. de la Zouch<br />
]<br />
j<br />
Henry III. .<br />
Henry III.<br />
Edward I..<br />
Ed. n.&iii.<br />
Edward HI.<br />
Early English.<br />
Early English.<br />
Decorated.<br />
Decorated.<br />
Decorated.<br />
Nave .. ..<br />
Choir, eastern portion<br />
Choir western portion<br />
Bell-tower, south-west<br />
j<br />
j<br />
j<br />
j<br />
1291<br />
1360<br />
1361<br />
1415<br />
1419<br />
1472<br />
1433<br />
1450<br />
John le Romayne 1<br />
John Thoresby<br />
j<br />
John Thoresby<br />
Henry Bowet<br />
Henry Bowet<br />
George NeviUe<br />
John Kempe<br />
Edward I..<br />
Edward II.<br />
Edward III.<br />
Edward ni.<br />
Henry V. .<br />
Henry V. .<br />
Edward IV.<br />
Henry VL .<br />
j- Decorated.<br />
Early Perpen.<br />
& Perpendicular<br />
Perpendicular<br />
Late Perpendicular.<br />
Bell-tower, north-west<br />
J<br />
1450<br />
1474<br />
John Kempe<br />
)<br />
William Booth<br />
[<br />
George NeviUe<br />
j<br />
Henry VI. .<br />
Edward IV.<br />
Late Perpendicular.<br />
Central-tower . .<br />
Organ-screen . .<br />
J<br />
|<br />
1460<br />
1472<br />
1476<br />
1518<br />
WiUiam Booth )<br />
George Neville )<br />
Lawrence Booth .<br />
Cardinal Wolsey .<br />
Edward IV.<br />
Edward IV.<br />
Henry VIII.<br />
Late Perpendicular.<br />
Late Perpendicular.<br />
c
18<br />
YORK MINSTER.<br />
It seems impossible to be disappointed in York Minster,<br />
however high may have been previous expectations.<br />
When you first gain a view of this mountain of ecclesiastical<br />
architecture, or at entering cast your eye through a vista of<br />
624 feet, or from the tesselated pavement gaze through<br />
column and arch up to the ribbed and fretted dome, 99 feet<br />
above you, or catch the light of a thousand wreathed and<br />
trembling rainbows, through gloriously refulgent windows,<br />
you are lost in wonder and astonishment. Its different<br />
parts, nave, transept, choir, chapter-house, and crypt,<br />
with the rich decorations of screen, statue, tracery, and<br />
monument, where sleep the illustrious dead, require many<br />
surveys, and repay all with the fulness of admiration. The<br />
original erection on this site is of great antiquity ;<br />
and the<br />
present edifice, though more than two hundred and fifty<br />
years in building, displays, amid variety of taste and style,<br />
great unity of design. It has loftily withstood the attacks<br />
of time and the depredations of war. * * The magnificent<br />
swell of the organ, and the majesty and sweetness of<br />
the chants, especially during Sabbath worship, seem unearthly.<br />
Twice on every week-day the service of prayer<br />
and praise ascends from this venerable Cathedral, and it is<br />
a touching thought, that its great heart of stone keeps<br />
alive that incense to Jehovah which too often grows dim<br />
and cold on the altar of the living soul." Mrs. Sigourney.<br />
DESCRIPTION.<br />
EXTERIOR.<br />
York Cathedral is built in the form of a cross. The length<br />
from the extreme of the buttresses east to west is 524 feet<br />
extreme breadth (z.e., length of transepts), north to south,<br />
250 feet. The Minster of York presents many styles of<br />
architecture, the crypt having some remains of Saxon together<br />
with early Norman at the west end. In the eastern<br />
portion of the building there is late Norman, early English in<br />
the north and south transepts, decorated in the nave and<br />
chapter-house, early perpendicular in the lady chapel, perpendicular<br />
in the choir, and late perpendicular in the central<br />
and two western towers. It is built of magnesian limestone from<br />
quarries near Tadcaster; from Huddleston, near Sherburn,<br />
Mil ford Junction ; and from Stapylton, near Pontefract. The<br />
stone when newly quarried is of a very soft nature, and<br />
consequently easily worked. For the late repairs of the south
19<br />
transept and clioir aisles, before being fixed each stone was<br />
steeped in boiled oil, cliemically prepared, by wbich means it<br />
is hoped the work will be preserved for ages : Time alone will<br />
tell. Approaching the Minster by way of Duncombe-street;,<br />
The Western Front first strikes the eye. It is thus described<br />
by Britton : ^'<br />
Two uniform towers, strengthened at<br />
their corners with buttresses which diminish at four divisions<br />
as they ascend, rise from the western ends of the aisles of the<br />
nave. Between these towers, the front of the middle aisle is<br />
carried up to the same height as its side walls, and an open<br />
battlement runs across the whole breadth, round the towers,<br />
and continues along sides of the nave. A number of niches,<br />
adorned with a beautiful variety and richness of sculpture,<br />
cover almost the whole front, and are wrought in each of the<br />
principal buttresses, as well as in the walls between them. The<br />
chief feature of the middle division is a grand window, an<br />
unrivalled specimen of the leafy tracery that marks the style<br />
of the middle of the fourteenth century. From the arch<br />
of this window rises an acute gable, or pediment, the point<br />
.of which, rising above the line of the battlement, is pierced<br />
on open tracery; behind which is seen the proper gable<br />
of the roof, adorned in front with tracery mouldings, similar<br />
to the window, and crowned at the top by battlements of<br />
open work raking on the sides, up to a tabernacle on<br />
the apex or summit. The principal door has a gable over its<br />
arch with strait sides, but not so highly pitched as that over<br />
the window. The doorway is divided by a slender pillar,<br />
composed of three clustered columns, with polished capitals,<br />
into two smaller arches, above which is a circular glazed<br />
compartment with tracery ; the whole is enclosed within<br />
a splendid recessed arch, the headway composed of various<br />
mouldings relieved by hollows. The mouldings round the<br />
doorway are ornamented with sculpture of exquisite delicacy<br />
and beauty, and exhibit the story of our first parents in the<br />
garden of Eden." The figure in the centre niche above the<br />
doorway is that of the Archbishop Melton, in whose time this<br />
front was completed, and the statues on either side represent<br />
a Percy on the north and a Yavasour on the south, each<br />
holding pieces of stone in their hands, with their arms and<br />
shields near, in commemoration of their having contributed<br />
the stone for the building.
20<br />
The Nave is divided on each side nortli and south into<br />
seven bays by buttresses ; on the north very plain and devoid<br />
of ornament ; those on the south are enriched with panels<br />
and recesses containing figures, and rise far above the<br />
aisle roof, having been once joined to it by light arches<br />
or flying buttresses. The buttresses are finished by tall<br />
pinnacles or spires. The north transept contains the light<br />
and chastely shaped window known as the **Five Sisters,'^<br />
above which are five smaller lancet-shaped windows. From<br />
the base springs an arcade of trefoil arches, the whole forming<br />
the most beautiful specimen of early EngHsh architecture<br />
in Great Britain. The aisles are divided into four bays by light<br />
buttresses, each of which contains a lancet-shaped window.<br />
The Chapter House is on the north side ; its plan is octagonal<br />
in design ; at each angle is a massive buttress ; between<br />
the buttresses there is a fine windoAV in the decorated style.<br />
The roof is covered with lead, and is pyramidal in shape.<br />
The Choir on both north and south sides is divided<br />
into two parts, by projections in the form of small transepts<br />
which rise above the aisles, and are pierced by long<br />
narrow windows on all three sides ; east and west of these<br />
projections both on the north and south are four large<br />
windows, above which are four lesser lights in the clerestory,<br />
being divided in each case with buttresses capped with<br />
delicately shaped finials ; the eight lights on the eastern end<br />
of the clerestory are guarded by a screen of stone of a light<br />
and elegant character—a feature unknown in any other<br />
building of a similar description. That wall of glass," the<br />
great east window, consists of nine lights, and occupies the<br />
east end of the choir. It is glazed on the outside with thick<br />
semi opaque glass to protect the coloured work within ; on<br />
each side are buttresses ornamented with panels and figures,<br />
being finished with crocketed octagonal small spires. Beneath<br />
the window is a row of heads, our Saviour in the centre, with,<br />
six of the apostles on each side, and other two figures. At<br />
the apex of the window is a figure supposed to represent Archbishop<br />
Thoresby holding a model of the Minster, he having<br />
built this part of the Cathedral. The south side is similar to<br />
the north, with the exception of some low buildings in the<br />
angle of the choir and south transept, which are used as<br />
yestry and record rooms, formerly part of the chantry chapel
21<br />
founded by Archbishop de la Zouch in the fourteenth<br />
century. These buildings are not in keeping with the<br />
Cathedral to which they are attached. The south transept<br />
is one of the oldest portions of the Minster ;<br />
the south front<br />
is divided by buttresses into three parts, the central compartment<br />
being occupied by a porch, which is approached by a<br />
broad and massive series of steps—the usual entrance to the<br />
Catliedral. On each side of the doorway is a running arcade<br />
of arches having clusters of columns with neatly carved<br />
capitals. In the tier over the entrance are eight lights ; above<br />
these, three lancet-shaped windows occupy the centre, the<br />
gable being filled with a magnificent oriel window 30 feet in<br />
diameter ; the whole is crowned with a crocketed pinnacle,<br />
on the point of which was formerly the figure of a man playing<br />
a violin—hence it was known as the fiddler's turret : " this has<br />
now been removed, and the pinnacle completed more in harmony<br />
with the building. Immediately contiguous to this<br />
transept on the western side, and impinging on the south<br />
aisle of the nave is the<br />
Will Office, a building not at all in harmony with the<br />
sacred edifice, and which it is hoped will soon be taken down.<br />
The great Lantern Tower rises from the centre of the<br />
. . height<br />
Cathedral to the height of 235 feet from the ground; it is the<br />
largest in England, being 65 feet in breadth; it dates from<br />
the fifteenth century. Each side is pierced with two perpendicular<br />
windows, the four corners of the tower being guarded<br />
by eight strong buttresses. From the top, round which runs<br />
a perforated battlement, a glorious view in clear weather may<br />
be obtained of the extensive vale of York. The sacred edifice<br />
is always being repaired, and large sums of money are annually<br />
expended upon materials and for the payment of wages of a<br />
staff of masons, who are constantly employed in the work.<br />
The dimensions externally are as follow :<br />
ft. in<br />
ft. in.<br />
Extreme length, east to<br />
Nave<br />
99 6<br />
west 524 0<br />
width 139 6<br />
Transepts, extreme<br />
Choir<br />
.. height 98 6<br />
length north to south 250 0<br />
width 129 0<br />
Width with aisles. 117 0 Great Tower . . height 235 0<br />
East end, width . . . . 129 0<br />
width 65 0<br />
West end, „ .. .. 140 0 West Towers .. height 201 0<br />
Chapter-house, height 67 10<br />
width 32 0<br />
width 99 0 Hose Window, circum. 80 0
22<br />
YORK MINSTER.<br />
" I stood within a Minster of old time,<br />
Ornate and mighty. Like a mount it reared<br />
Its massy front, with pinnacle and tower,<br />
Augustly beautiful. The morning sun<br />
Through noblest windows of refulgent stain,<br />
MuUioned, and wrought with leafy tracery,<br />
Threw o'er the pavement many a gorgeous group<br />
Of cherubim, and seraphim, and saint,<br />
And long-robed patriarch, kneeling low in prayer,<br />
While as his golden finger changed the ray,<br />
Fresh floods of brilliance poured on all around.<br />
O'er the long vista the delighted eye,<br />
Bewildered, roved—transept, and nave, and choir,<br />
And screen elaborate, and column proud,<br />
And vaulted roof that seemed another sky."<br />
Mrs. Sigourney.<br />
DESCRIPTION.—INTERIOR.<br />
We will now enter the Cathedral by the door in the south'<br />
transept. This consists like all the other main parts of the<br />
building of three divisions—a large central part and two side<br />
aisles, and is in that most chaste of architecture, the Early<br />
English. The southern end of this transept is pierced by<br />
several windows filled with beautifully painted glass ; the<br />
two on the left represent Abraham and Solomon, Moses and<br />
Peter are on the right. These were painted by Peckett,<br />
a self-taught artist resident in the city ; the one of St.<br />
Peter was erected in 1768, by the artist in his lifetime,<br />
the other in 1706, having been bequeathed at his death.<br />
The three windows above are representations of St. William<br />
on the east, St. Paul in the centre-light, and St. Wilfrid<br />
on the west. Above is the magnificent rose-window, filled<br />
with richly stained glass, being an object of remarkable<br />
symmetrical beauty. There are arcades of pointed arches running<br />
over the walls of the south end. The monotony of the<br />
pillars and clerestory is broken by slender shafts of black marble,<br />
which stand in bold relief to the lighter coloured columns and<br />
walls. This transept was completely restored in 1874 by<br />
public subscription, at a cost of £10,000. In the eastern<br />
aisle of this transept, is the richest monumental tomb in the<br />
Cathedral, and said to be. one of the finest known specimens
23<br />
of cianopied work—that of Archbishop Walter de Grey, the<br />
founder of this portion of the Cathedral. A model of this<br />
beautiful work was made a few years ago, and placed in the<br />
South Kensington Museum. It consists of two tiers of trefoil<br />
arches, supported by nine slender columns of black marble,<br />
eight feet high, with moulded bases and capitals covered with<br />
foliage, a similar ornament being on the spandrils ; these<br />
sustain a canopy of eight arches, with crocketed pediments,<br />
capped with most elaborate finials, each having representations<br />
of thrushes in full song, resting upon packs of wool.<br />
Perpetually lying in state, under this enriched canopy, rests<br />
the archbishop, dressed in the full canonicals of cope, tunic,<br />
dalmatic, and alb ;<br />
the middle fingers of the right-hand are<br />
raised as in the act of benediction, the left holds the pastoral<br />
staff, whilst the feet are trampHng on a dragon. The whole<br />
is enclosed in iron railing of similarly rich and elaborate workmanship.<br />
Beyond this, on the north, is a coffin-shaped<br />
tomb, under a canopy of trefoil arches, said to have been<br />
erected to the memory of Archbishop Godfrey de Ludham,<br />
who died in 1265. At the south corner of the western aisle,<br />
is the door-way through which the ascent to the top of the great<br />
central-tower is made. At the other end of this aisle is placed<br />
the font, of dark shell marble, under a heavy suspended cover<br />
of modern woodwork.<br />
The great Central Tower from floor to ceiling, which<br />
is covered with beautiful tracery, is 180 feet high. The<br />
four huge pillars, with their capitals adorned with sculptured<br />
foliage, together with the loftiness (109 feet) of<br />
the gigantic arches, form a very striking effect. In the<br />
spandrils of the arches are coats-of-arms : on the south, those<br />
of the Chapter of York and Walter Skirlaw, Bishop of Durham<br />
;<br />
on the west, of France, with England and Edward the<br />
Confessor ; on the north, of the Saxon kings Edwin and Edward,<br />
the martyr ; on the east, of the See of York and St. Wilfrid.<br />
Over the apex of the arches (inside) runs a projecting string<br />
course, with angle brackets, supporting a rich arcade with<br />
parapet, having a stone gallery, all of which go round the<br />
tower. The tower is lighted on each side with two lofty<br />
perpendicular windows, filled with plain cathedral glass.<br />
North Transept.—This is similar in design to the south<br />
transept, being Early English, but more advanced in style,
24<br />
and was built from 12*50 to 1270. The most notable object<br />
is the beautiful Early English window of five lights in the<br />
north end, called the " five sisters," from an ancient tradition<br />
that five nuns presented the window, each one having also<br />
designed and worked the pattern of one light of the glasswork<br />
in tapestry. The legend is alluded to by Charles Dickens<br />
in chapter vi. of Nicholas Nicklehy, The noble proportions<br />
and plain simplicity of this remarkable window at once<br />
arrest attention, as the visitor advances towards it from the<br />
south transept. Each light is fifty-three feet six inches high,<br />
and five feet one inch wide. Above are five small lancet-shaped<br />
windows, filling up the gable ;<br />
these are glazed with modern<br />
glass. Under the " Five Sisters" is an arcade of ten trefoiled<br />
arches, running the whole width of the transept. In the<br />
east aisle is the decorated door-way of the vestibule<br />
leading to the chapter-house. Close to this door-way is the<br />
beautiful modern altar-tomb, with marble recumbent efiigy,<br />
to the memory of the late Dr. Beckwith, who died in 1843,<br />
and left many munificent bequests to the charitable institutions<br />
of the city. The niches on the sides of the tomb are filled<br />
with an account of the various amounts—£46,000 in all. In<br />
this aisle is also the tomb of Archbishop Grenefield, who died<br />
in 1315. The tomb itself is of the ordinary altar shape, ornamented<br />
with panels and pointed arches, on the slab of which<br />
is an engraved brass plate representing the archbishop in his<br />
robes, and wearing a pall ; over it is a canopy enriched with<br />
crockets, the top terminating in a finial, with a small figure<br />
of the prelate bearing his pastoral staff, and raised hand as in<br />
the act of benediction. It presents a fine specimen of the style<br />
which prevailed in the reign of Henry YI. It was behind<br />
this tomb that Jonathan Martin, the incendiary, hid himself<br />
on the night he set fire to the Cathedral : the space is now<br />
boarded up. In the west aisle is the monument of John Haxby,<br />
treasurer to the Cathedral, who died in 1414. It is a stone<br />
figure within an iron grating, and represents a wasted corpse<br />
in a winding sheet. Following out the stipulations contained<br />
in certain ancient deeds of the Church, it is necessary that<br />
some of the Cathedral revenues should be paid on this tomb.<br />
In a line with Dr. Beckwith's monument, to the west, is<br />
one to the memory of Archbishop Harcourt (1847), with<br />
white marble figure, by Noble.
25<br />
The stained-glass window in the north end of the west<br />
aisle in this transept, is to the memory of Mr. Justice Wightman,<br />
who died suddenly at York in 1863.<br />
The plain glass window next to this is the one through<br />
which Jonathan Martin made his escape.<br />
The four windows to the south in the west aisle are in<br />
memory of the officers and privates of the 9th and 51st regiments,<br />
who died of cholera in India in 1861.<br />
The enriched capitals of this transept, with the foliated<br />
ornamentation, are particularly fine ; and the prevalence of<br />
the dog-tooth ornament should also be noticed.<br />
The Naye is 264 feet long, 103 feet 3 inches wide, and 96<br />
feet high ;<br />
with the exception of those of Ely and St. Paul's,<br />
it is the largest in England. The length is divided on each<br />
side into eight compartments, by seven clustered columns<br />
with plain bases, and capitals enriched with beautiful<br />
sculptured forms of foliage. The columns support pointed<br />
arches of the decorated period, above which runs a triforium,<br />
having an open screen in front; whilst in the clerestory are<br />
eight windows on each side filled with stained glass, the<br />
upper portion of those on the south side being of the Norman<br />
period. In the spandrils of the arches are shields with the<br />
heraldic achievements of the principal benefactors to the<br />
Cathedral. Projecting from the open screen over the fifth arch<br />
on the north side is the figure of a dragon, which originally<br />
held in its mouth a cord, by which the cover of the baptismal<br />
font formerly placed beneath it could be raised or lowered<br />
as required. Immediately opposite, on the other side, is a<br />
statue of St. George. The roof is of wood and plaster ; at<br />
the intersection of the beams are elaborately carved bosses,<br />
having representations of incidents named in Scripture. The<br />
west end contains the magnificent window of eight lights,<br />
54 feet high by 25 feet broad, and is said to be the finest<br />
example of the decorated in existence. In the lower part of<br />
the window are figures of eight archbishops ; in the row above<br />
are eight saints, including St. Peter, St. Paul, and St. James;<br />
above these are representations of the resurrection of our<br />
Lord, the coronation of the Virgin, &c. The date of the<br />
glass is 1330 to 1350. The side aisles are remarkable for<br />
their width. The windows in the aisles are of the decorated<br />
period, and contain some beautiful specimens of early
26<br />
coloured glass. Under them runs a decorated arcade with<br />
panels. When immediately under the great west window,<br />
the visitor's attention is particularly called to the glorious<br />
view looking eastward. Proceeding slowly down the centre<br />
of the nave, the wonderful and gigantic proportions of this<br />
grand building appeal to the beholder with overpowering<br />
solemnity.<br />
The Ohgan in the third arch of the north aisle of<br />
the nave was erected by Messrs. Hill and Son, from a<br />
specification prepared by Dr. Monk in 1863. It is intended<br />
to accompany choral services and large bodies of singers in<br />
this immense space, and has been designed with reference<br />
this special object.<br />
It has three manuals and pedal.<br />
Great CC to A3 11 stops<br />
]<br />
Swell 9 /<br />
—<br />
Pedal CCC to F .. 6 „ j<br />
with six couplers, four composition pedals and tremulant.<br />
The pedal board is radiating and concave.<br />
T^he Organ Screen is immediately under the central tower<br />
and separates the choir from the nave. It is of stone sculptured<br />
in the highest style of the perpendicular, divided into fifteen<br />
compartments, on each of which is placed on a pedestal a<br />
statue of one of the Kings of England arranged in<br />
chronological order from William I. to Henry YI. ; there are<br />
seven on the north and eight on the south side of the<br />
entrance to the choir, namely :<br />
to<br />
North.<br />
South.<br />
^ ^ w S w S<br />
Principal<br />
Entrance<br />
to the<br />
Choir.<br />
K i><br />
b b h<br />
f-i u<br />
Pi PI d<br />
Above these statues is another row of small niches filled<br />
playing on various musical<br />
with diminutive figures of angels<br />
instruments, and hence is called the " heavenly choir." It is<br />
enriched with elaborate carved work, niches with pointed<br />
arches, finials, crockets, grotesque figures, &c., &c., the whole<br />
being surmounted by a parapet. It is<br />
23J feet high, and
27<br />
nearly 60 feet long. In the entrance to the choir, underneath<br />
the organ, is a remarkable centre boss, representing<br />
the Assumption of the Virgin, surrounded by angels.<br />
The Organ, standing on the screen, and remarkable for<br />
its depth, richness, and beauty of tone, was given by the Earl<br />
of Scarborough in 1832. It was reconstructed and modernized<br />
by Messrs. Hill and Son, of London, under the direction<br />
of Dr. Monk, in 1859-60. It contains four manuals ; compass,<br />
CC to G.<br />
Great . . . . 24 stops. Solo . . . . 3 stops.<br />
Swell.. 14 „ Pedal(CCCtoF).. 19 „<br />
Choir . . . . 9 „ Couplers . . . . 7 „<br />
Total, 76 draw stops.<br />
There are eight composition pedals, and two tremulants.<br />
The pneumatic action is applied to great, swell, and pedal<br />
organs, which latter contains two 32 -feet stops. The tubas,<br />
altogether unique in their unexampled grandeur and power^<br />
are placed most effectively in horizontal position at the back<br />
of the organ, where their tone is free and unobstructed, and<br />
their appearance decidedly ornamental. The case is of<br />
carved oak, Gothic, and the outside pipes beautifully diapered,<br />
and was designed by Mackensie, under Sir E. Smirke.<br />
The Choir.—Entering by the doorway under the organ,<br />
the effect is exquisitely fine. The delicate carving of thestalls<br />
and beautifully chiselled capitals of the columns, the<br />
pointed arches and great height, the enriched corbels and<br />
perforated bosses, the brazen eagle and elevated altar<br />
bounded with the wondrous east window, constitute a<br />
picture of marvellous beauty, which cannot f^il to quicken<br />
in the beholder all the loftiest feelings of his nature, surrounded<br />
as he is by such monuments of solemnity and awe-^<br />
inspiring grandeur.<br />
Like the nave, it is divided into three parts, a centre and:<br />
side aisles ;<br />
separating the centre from each side are eight<br />
pillars having elaborately carved capitals ;<br />
these support nine<br />
lofty arches, above which is the triforium, with open passageway<br />
and clerestory, in which are four lights on each side of<br />
the choir transept windows. In the bays of the arches are<br />
shields having coats of arms of the various founders. The<br />
fifth arch on each side from the east end rises to the roof<br />
and forms the transepts of the choir, a notable peculiarity of
28<br />
this building. There are sixty-four richly canopied stalls<br />
for the dignitaries of the Cathedral, namely, six on either<br />
side of the entrance doorway, and twenty-six running up the<br />
length of the choir north and south. These are completed<br />
on the south by the Archbishop's throne, and on the opposite<br />
side by the pulpit. The whole is of oak most beautifully<br />
€arved, being finished off with crockets and enriched finials.<br />
At the foot of the steps rising to the altar, between the<br />
throne and pulpit, is the lectern or brazen eagle, from which<br />
the lessons are read. At the east end, the altar is reached<br />
by fifteen steps.<br />
Behind the altar table is an open stone screen, having<br />
mullions with transoms, tracery in the upper part, and an<br />
ornamented embattled parapet; the eight lights are filled with<br />
plate glass ;<br />
thus dividing the choir from the lady chapel. In<br />
front of this is a reredos of oak, with tryptich, containing an<br />
alto-relievo cast of the Crucifixion. The sides of the upper<br />
part of the choir are also glazed. In the aisles and lady chapel<br />
are a number of remarkable tombs and efi^igies. The south<br />
aisle contains several modern erections to the memory of<br />
soldiers and others, namely:<br />
A marble monument to Lieut. Henry Lees, 3rd Dragoon<br />
Guards, accidentally killed by a fall from his horse in Phoenix<br />
Park, Dublin, 30th September, 1876.<br />
A marble monument to the officers and 191 men of the 33rd<br />
Eegiment, who died whilst serving in India in 1857 to 1867.<br />
A monumental brass to Frederick Yyner who was murdered<br />
by Greek brigands on the 21st April, 1870.<br />
A monumental brass to the officers and men of the l9th<br />
Eegiment who fell in the Eussian war of 1854-5.<br />
A sculptured monument to the memory of the officers and<br />
men of the 51st or 2nd West Eiding Eegiment who fell in<br />
the war in Burmah in 1852-3.<br />
A monument to the officers and men of the 84th Eegiment<br />
who fell in the Indian mutiny, 1857-9.<br />
A monument to the officers and men of the 33rd Eegiment<br />
who fell in the Eussian war, 1854-6<br />
A monument to William Mason (1797), the poet, canon<br />
residentiary of York, and also of his nephew, William Henry<br />
Dixon (1854), joint authors of *'The Lives of the Archbishops<br />
of York."
29<br />
A monument to Major Oldfield, 5th Bengal Cavalry.<br />
A finely sculptured monument of marble in memory of Lieut.<br />
Col. Willoughby-Moore, seven non-commissioned officers and'<br />
ten men of the 6th Inniskilling Dragoons who perished in<br />
the burning of the " Europa" transport-ship in 1854.<br />
In this aisle are the entrances to the vestry and chapter<br />
clerk's office. Of the ancient monuments which commence<br />
here and are continued beyond the division of the aisle by<br />
iron raihngs, the most notable are the following<br />
A tablet to Jane Hodson, wife of a chancellor of the<br />
Cathedral, who died in 1636, in giving birth to her twentyfourth<br />
child, she being in her thirty- eighth year.<br />
A small monument to Archbishop Piers (1594), a favourite<br />
of Queen Elizabeth.<br />
A monument to Sir WilHam Gee, secretary of James I.<br />
(1611), with effigies of himself, his two wives, and six<br />
children, all in the attitude of prayer.<br />
A monument to Archbishop Hutton (1757), with effigy of<br />
himself in cope, rochet, and gown, and also of his three<br />
children.<br />
A monument to Archbishop Lamplugh (1691), a statue<br />
with mitre and crozier.<br />
The white marble monument is by Westmacott, to the<br />
memory of William Burgh, D.C.L. (1808)<br />
; it is an emblematical<br />
figure of religion.<br />
Against the south wall, towards the east end, is a marble<br />
monument, with Corinthian columns, in memory of William<br />
Wentworth, Earl of Strafford (1695), son of the famous earl^.<br />
on it are effigies of the earl and his countess, above are the<br />
arms of the family.<br />
At the east end is a life-sized statue in Eoman toga, &c.,,<br />
Thomas Watson Wentworth (1723), third son of Edward<br />
of<br />
Lord Rockingham.<br />
The massive tomb which fills the whole of the bay between<br />
the lady chapel and the south aisle of the first arch, from the<br />
east end, is that of Archbishop Bowet (1423) ; above the<br />
tomb is a lofty elliptical arch 30 feet high, in the form of a<br />
canopy, having beautiful tracery, capped with three lofty<br />
pinnacles, each containing a statue. This monument is a rich<br />
and elegant specimen of the fiorid style of Anglo Norman,<br />
architecture.
30<br />
In a line with the above, under the second arch, is<br />
an altar tomb with plain black marble slab to the memory<br />
of Archbishop Mathew, 1628 (whose effigy lies just under<br />
the great east window), celebrated in his day as a famous<br />
preacher and wit; he was a favourite of both EHzabeth<br />
and James I. : this is a modern erection, the original<br />
having been destroyed in the last great fire.<br />
Near the entrance to the crypt in this aisle is the altar<br />
tomb of Archbishop Dolben (1686), who was a stauncK<br />
royalist and standard bearer at the battle of Marston Moor ;<br />
on it is a recumbent figure in full episcopal vestments.<br />
The great window in the transept of this aisle is called<br />
St. Cuthbert's, because of its having illustrations of the life<br />
and miracles of that saint ; it contains 108 compartments, is<br />
72 feet high by 16 feet 6 inches wide. It was presented by<br />
the representatives of a bishop of Durham in 1437.<br />
The last window on the south side is a most beautiful<br />
specimen of colour work in glass. It represents the Annunciation<br />
after Sebastian del Piombo, and was presented by the<br />
Earl of Carlisle in 1804, who brought it from the church of<br />
St. Nicholas in Rouen.<br />
The Lady Chapel extends from the back of the altar<br />
screen to the great east window. This chapel contains<br />
the following monuments and tombs :<br />
Against the wall, immediately under the great window, one<br />
to Archbishop Sharp (1713) ;<br />
it consists of an altar supported<br />
by Corinthian columns, on which is a recumbent figure<br />
of the Archbishop ; this prelate was remarkable for his strong<br />
opposition to the Eomish predilections of James II.<br />
The flat stone with floriated cross is to the memory of<br />
Archbishop Sewal (1238).<br />
The mutilated effigy on the ground is one of Archbishop<br />
jVIathew, named previously.<br />
The altar tomb under the north corner of the east<br />
window is that of Cardinal Archbishop Rotherham (1500).<br />
He was Lord Chancellor in Edward lY.'s reign; the monument<br />
was restored in 1832 by Lincoln CoUege, Oxford, to<br />
which he was a great benefactor.<br />
Behind this tomb is a kneeling figure to the memory of<br />
Frances Mathew, wife of the Archbishop of that name ; she<br />
was the daughter of a bishop, married the son of an Arch-
31<br />
bishop of Canterbury for her first<br />
husband, the Archbishop<br />
of York for her second husband, and her four sisters<br />
married bishops.<br />
Against the wall is a Corinthian monument, with effigy<br />
in rochet and gown, to Archbishop Frewen (1664).<br />
Under the first arch from the east end on the north side of<br />
the Lady Chapel is the plain altar tomb of the fighting Archbishop<br />
Scrope, who was beheaded in a field near Bishopthorpe<br />
in 1405 for high treason. In such great estimation<br />
was this prelate held that his grave was visited by large numbers<br />
of the people, w^hen so many miracles were said to have<br />
been performed, that Henry IV. ordered it to be concealed<br />
with great logs of wood. (Scrope's rebellion forms one of<br />
the principal scenes in Shakespeare's Henry IV., parts 1<br />
and 2.)<br />
In a line with this monument, and under the second arch,<br />
is one to the memory of William Markham (1807), who for<br />
thirty years was Archbishop of York. It is of stone, richly<br />
carved, and bearing shields emblazoned with coats of arms,<br />
and is surrounded with a pavement of encaustic tiles. His<br />
remains lie in Westminster Abbey.<br />
The tomb of Archbishop Musgrave (1860) stands in the<br />
centre of the chapel : the effigy is by Noble.<br />
The great east window may be said to be a miracle of<br />
masonry and glazing. It is 76 feet 9 inches high, by 81<br />
feet 9 inches wide, and " is the largest window in the kingdom<br />
that retains its original glazing." It is divided into<br />
200 compartments, each filled with beautiful stained glass<br />
having figures about two feet high. The subjects in the<br />
upper part are taken from the Old Testament—the creation,<br />
the Tower of Babel, scenes from the lives of the patriarchs,<br />
of Moses, of David, and others. Those below the upper gallery<br />
are from the book of Eevelations, except in the lowest<br />
tier, which are representations of various saints, kings, and<br />
bishops. The glass work was by John Thornton, of Coventry<br />
(1408); who undertook to design and paint the various<br />
subjects for the sum of four shillings per week for his own<br />
work, and to complete the window in less than three years,<br />
at the end of each year to have five pounds extra, and when<br />
the work was completed ten pounds as a reward. The<br />
masonry consists of three stages, having three divisions, each
32<br />
liaving transoms, the two lower ones having open arches with<br />
passage ways. The upper portion is a beautiful specimen<br />
of tracery in the most chaste and pure style of the Perpendicular.<br />
The north aisle contains, amongst other monuments at the<br />
east end,<br />
A white marble mitred figure reclining on a pedestal,<br />
with his head on his hand, in memory of Archbishop Sterne<br />
(1683), great grandfather of the celebrated Lawrence Sterne.<br />
The drapery of the figure is finely chiselled. He was chap-<br />
Iain to the haughty Archbishop Laud, whom he attended on<br />
the scaffold.<br />
Under the second window is a white marble figure of Sir<br />
George Saville (1784) leaning against a pillar, having a scroll<br />
in his hand inscribed, " The petition of the freeholders of<br />
the county of York." He represented the county in five<br />
successive parliaments.<br />
The large monument with naval ornaments is to the<br />
memory of Vice-Admiral Henry Medley (1747).<br />
Past this, is one of very massive proportions, in black and<br />
white marble, to the memory of Charles, Earl of Carlisle<br />
(1707), erected by his daughter, Lady Mary Fenwick, which<br />
also commemorates the death of her husband in 1696, who<br />
was executed for high treason.<br />
One with two half-length figures to the first Sir William<br />
Ingram, D.C.L. (1623), and his wife; also to the second<br />
Sir William, LL.D. (1670).<br />
The monument with figure kneeling at a desk is to the<br />
memory of Henry Swinburne, LL.D. (1656).<br />
The massive monument with figures kneeling, over<br />
which is a canopy supported by three columns, is to the<br />
memory of Sir Henry and Lady Bellasis (1630). The<br />
inscription, which contains no date, states that he erected<br />
the monument himself, and it concludes with an admonition<br />
in Latin, thus translated : Death is certain, the day<br />
of it is uncertain ;<br />
there is no dependence on the care of<br />
those that follow us ;<br />
he is wise that prepares himself a tomb<br />
—the habitual remembrance of death and judgment is the<br />
best preservative from sin."<br />
Here iron railings cross the aisle.<br />
Near to an entrance to the crypt is the altar tomb of<br />
Archbishop Savage (1507), with mitred figure. Above is
I
33<br />
an arch with ornamented cornice, on which is an inscription<br />
and carved figures of angels bearing shields.<br />
The two triangular ancient chests were formerly used for<br />
holding the vestments of the priests.<br />
The transept window in this aisle is similar to the one<br />
in the south, and is called Saint William's, having representations<br />
of many of the events of his life.<br />
The last tomb is that of Prince William de Hatfield,<br />
son of Edward III., who died in York in 1343, when seven<br />
years old. It consists of a figure in a recumbent position,<br />
above which is an elaborate series of lofty canopies.<br />
The Crypt.—This is entered from door-ways in both aisles<br />
of the choir. It contains remains of the earliest structures,<br />
has four<br />
and is a mixture of Saxon and Norman architecture ;<br />
aisles running under nearly the whole of the choir, and a<br />
groined roof supported by arches erected since the last fire ;<br />
there are six massive Norman pillars, five feet six inches high<br />
there are also four clustered columns of Norman work<br />
curiously sculptured, and a portion of a door-jamb similarly<br />
worked. Some Saxon herring-bone work, in good preservation,<br />
may also be seen, supposed to date from about 770. In<br />
the crypt were formerly several chantries, one of which Torre<br />
informs us was called the Chantry of the Altar of St. Mary,<br />
zn Crf/ptis,^' and that her mass was daily celebrated there with<br />
note and organ. On special occasions it is illuminated with gas.<br />
The Chapter-house is approached through a vestibule,<br />
entered from the east aisle of the north transept,<br />
which is lighted by eight large richly coloured windows,<br />
the walls underneath being ornamented with tracery.<br />
Near the door-way is the following Latin couplet in<br />
Saxon characters:<br />
Wit : 'gom p^l0S : pl^Iomm<br />
$k tut: ^omn$ : btu: pomatum:''<br />
As the rose is the chief of flowers, so is this the house of<br />
houses.") The door-way is formed by two trefoiled arches,<br />
having a shaft down the centre, in which is a niche containing<br />
a mutilated figure of the Virgin and child. The house<br />
itself is octagonal in form, 63 feet in diameter by 67 feet 10<br />
inches high. Seven of the bays are occupied with large<br />
lancet-headed windows, 46 feet high by 17 feet 6 inches in<br />
D
34<br />
"breadth ; the tracery, which is of the richest kind, all filled<br />
with stained glass of the period of Edwards II. and III.,<br />
except the one opposite the entrance, which was restored a few<br />
years ago. The illustrations in the windows are events from<br />
sacred history or from the lives of the saints. The entrance<br />
doorway occupies the eighth side, above which is tracery,<br />
matching that of the windows, with a row of 13 niches<br />
formerly filled with figures, supposed to have been those of<br />
Christ and the twelve apostles. The vaulted roof is elaborate<br />
in design and workmanship, and contains on the various bosses<br />
and intersections of the groining a number of grotesque heads<br />
and figures, no two being alike; it is illuminated with stars<br />
of gold on a blae ground; the floor is of encaustic tiles. There<br />
are stalls for the clergy all round the building, and a gallery<br />
above, between the top of the stalls and the sills of the<br />
windows. The table is of great antiquity. It is in this justly<br />
celebrated and most beautiful of houses that convocation meets<br />
for the northern part of the kingdom, after which it adjourns<br />
to the Zouch Chapel.<br />
The Vestry —The entrance to this is in the south aisle of the<br />
choir; it is immediately adjacent to the chapel built by Archbishop<br />
de la Zouch, in which are several closets and receptacles<br />
for valuables and antiquities pertaining to the Cathedral.<br />
Of the antiquities, the most celebrated is the horn of<br />
Ulphus, made of an elephant's tusk 29 inches in length,,<br />
curiously carved, and was originally ornamented with gold<br />
mountings. It is a most valuable relic of ancient art,,<br />
and is the title by which the Dean and Chapter hold several<br />
of their estates. The circumstances of the gift are recorded<br />
as follows: Ulphus, son-in-law of Canute, was a Saxon<br />
prince of the western part of Deira. Finding that his two<br />
sons were likely to quarrel after his death about their<br />
inheritance, he resolved to make them both equal. Coming<br />
to York, he brought this horn, from which he was accustomed<br />
to drink, filled it with wine, and kneeling before the altar<br />
devoutly drank it off, thus dedicating all his lands and<br />
revenues to God and St. Peter for ever. After the reformation,<br />
the horn was stolen, the value of its ornament, no<br />
doulDt, being the temptation. It, however, ultimately fell<br />
into the hands of Sir Thomas Fairfax, the parliamentarian<br />
general, whose son, Henry Lord Fairfax, restored it to the
35<br />
Cathedral, denuded of its gold. In 1675, it was re-decorated<br />
with brass by order of the Dean and Chapter, who added an<br />
inscription plate, on which the above-named circumstances are<br />
recorded.<br />
The indulgence cup of Archbishop Scrope is a singular<br />
relic of the middle ages ; it consists of a bowl of wood on<br />
three cherubs' heads of silver as feet ; the rim is edged with<br />
silver gilt, on which is the following inscription :<br />
hxinkh of t^i^ cope f^ti iagi$ ta partron/' |lobrf §ohmn,<br />
best^ope mtm grant in mmz Immz afore- saxJr,<br />
f ITli bagi$ ta<br />
parbojt, llobrt Mxtmnllu.**<br />
It is generally supposed to have been given by Scrope to the<br />
guild of Corpus Christi held in York ; at the dissolution of<br />
this guild it passed into the possession of the Cordwainers'<br />
Company, by whom it was presented in 1808 to the Dean and<br />
Chapter.<br />
There exists here a curiously carved oak chest of the<br />
fourteenth century, about the time of Edward III., with<br />
representations of the story of St.<br />
George and the Dragon, in<br />
alto-relievo.<br />
An ancient coronation chair said to be as old as the<br />
Heptarchy.<br />
A silver crozier, about seven feet long, taken from the<br />
hands of the last Eoman Catholic archbishop designate of<br />
York in James II's. reign, as he was entering the Minster in<br />
solemn procession, 1687, by Lord Danby, who presented it to<br />
the Dean and Chapter.<br />
Signet rings of gold and rubies, belonging to several<br />
archbishops.<br />
Several antique silver chahces and patens taken from<br />
tho tombs of various archbishops.<br />
An old copy of the Bible (1611), with chain to secure it.<br />
Bible and Prayer Book, presented by Charles I. whilst<br />
residing in York.<br />
Bible in two volumes, presented by Charles II.<br />
Some curious ancient armour.<br />
Two figures of wood images of saints formerly fixed on<br />
the Minster clock, to strike the quarters.<br />
Candlesticks in silver gilt, 200 years old.
36<br />
Brass offertory dishes,<br />
about 500 years old.<br />
Old colours of the 65th and 84th Regiments of Infantry.<br />
Two small old chests (very curious), supposed to be<br />
Peter's pence boxes.<br />
Archbishop de la Zouch's Chapel (1351) is to the east<br />
of the vestry, and can be entered either from the choir<br />
aisle or from the vestry; it is now used as the chapter<br />
clerk's office. It contains the valuable fabric rolls which<br />
have so much enlightened us in the history of the erection<br />
of this venerable building. This room is also used<br />
for the sittings of convocation.<br />
The Treasury can also be entered from the vestry or from<br />
the east aisle of the south transept ; there is nothing remarkable<br />
in it except Peter's well, which is in the south-west<br />
corner. It is now used as the choristers' school-room.<br />
The Towers.—^The great central-tower is ascended through<br />
a smaU door-way in the western aisle of the south transept.<br />
The top is reached by an ascent of two hundred and seventythree<br />
steps, when, if the atmosphere be clear, a very extensive<br />
view of the Vale of York may be seen.<br />
The south-west or bell-tower is ascended through a small<br />
door-way in the south aisle of the west end of the nave, which<br />
leads to the bell-chamber; from this a gallery along the west<br />
front leads to the north-west tower, in which the monster<br />
bell, *'Big Peter," is installed in a room to himself.<br />
The Peal of Bells consists of twelve, of various dimensions,<br />
from 2i to 5i feet in height. The following are the<br />
particulars of weights and diameters<br />
No. Cwts. Qrs. Lbs. Ft. In.<br />
7 14 1 2 3 6<br />
8 17 3 18 3 9<br />
9 19 3 11 4 0<br />
10 25 1 10 4 3<br />
11 35 3 7 4 9<br />
12 ... 63 3 0 5 5<br />
No. Cwts. Qrs. Lbs. Ft. In.<br />
1 . 7 1 22 2 6<br />
2 7 1 U 2 7<br />
3 .804 2 8<br />
4 ... 8 1 12 2 11<br />
5 .... 9 2 15 3 0<br />
6 .. 13 0 8 3 21<br />
With the exception of "Big Ben " at the Houses of Parliament,<br />
'^Big Peter" is the largest bell in England. ^<br />
It is<br />
7 feet 2 inches high, diameter 8 feet 4 inches, and weighs 10<br />
tons 15 cwt.; the clapper weighs 4 cwt. 1 qr. 5 lbs., and the<br />
ironwork 13 cwt. 2 qrs. 19 lbs.; the thickness of the soundingcurve<br />
is 7 inches. It was cast by Messrs. Mears, of London,<br />
in 1845, at a cost of £2,000, which was raised by pubhc
37<br />
subscription. The bell is never rung, but tolled or struck on<br />
the outside line with a hammer fixed as a lever, the bell being<br />
stationary: the clapper is not used. The hour at noon<br />
(except Sundays; is daily struck upon this bell, and the last<br />
hour of every dying year. It is also tolled on the death of<br />
royal or illustrious personages.<br />
"In monkish mediaeval times church bells enjoyed peculiar<br />
esteem. They were treated in great measure as voices, and<br />
were inscribed with Latin ejaculations and prayers, such as<br />
' Hail, Mary, full of grace, pray for us<br />
;<br />
'<br />
'<br />
St. Peter, pray for us,*<br />
&c., &c. : their tones swung out into the air would ecstatically<br />
appear to give utterances to the supplications with which they<br />
were inscribed. ... In those old times, pious queens<br />
and gentlewomen threw into the mass of metal that was to be<br />
cast into a<br />
'<br />
bell their gold and silver ornaments. . . . One<br />
of the ancient windows on the north side of the nave of York<br />
Minster is filled with stained glass, which is divided into subjects<br />
representing the various processes of bell- casting, bellcleaning,<br />
and bell-tuning, and has for a border a series of bells,<br />
one below another; proving that the associations with which<br />
bells were regarded rendered them both ecclesiastical and pictorial<br />
in the eyes of the artists of old.'" Chambers's Booh<br />
of Days.<br />
The Bell-window named above is immediately behind the<br />
nave organ.<br />
The Services are<br />
Sundays 10-30 a.m. and 4-0 p.m. in Summer.<br />
10-30 a.m., 4-0 and 6-45 p.m. in Winter.<br />
Week-days... 10-0 a.m. and 4-30 p.m.<br />
Between 9 and 10 a.m. and from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. visitors<br />
are conducted by one of the vergers through the choir and<br />
other places of interest, at a fixed fee of sixpence for each<br />
person. For the ascent to the central-tower, sixpence extra is<br />
charged.<br />
Registry of the Diocese.—The building in the angle<br />
of the nave and south transept, close to the entrance, is the<br />
Registry of the Diocese. Here are preserved ancient ecclesiastical<br />
documents and wills as far back as 1389; and a<br />
register is kept of all wills for the northern district of<br />
England since 1730, up to January 7th, 1858. A copy of<br />
any one can be read on payment of one shilling.
A—St. William's Tomb.<br />
B—Font.<br />
€—Entrance to Chapel of St.<br />
Mary and the Angels (now<br />
taken down)<br />
D—Archbishop Scrope's Tomb.<br />
E—Archbishop De La Zouch's<br />
Chapel.<br />
F—The Vestry.<br />
G—The Treasury (now Choristers'<br />
School-room).<br />
39<br />
REFERENCE.<br />
H—Archbishop Walter de Grey's<br />
Tomb.<br />
J—Archbishop Grenefield's<br />
Tomb.<br />
K—Altar (or Communion Table).<br />
L—Door-way leading to top of<br />
Central Tower.<br />
M—North Transept.<br />
N—South Transept.<br />
O—Will Office.<br />
P—South Entrance.<br />
DIMENSIONS<br />
ft. in.<br />
Extreme length 486 0<br />
length 264 0<br />
width 103 3<br />
height 96 0<br />
length 156 6<br />
width 52 0<br />
height 101 0<br />
Choir and Lady length 223 0<br />
Chapel j height 101 0<br />
width 52 9<br />
Lady Chapel. . length 66 6<br />
width 52 9<br />
North Transept.. .length 96 6<br />
height<br />
width 94 6<br />
South Transept. length 104 6<br />
INTERNALLY.<br />
ft. in.<br />
South Transept ..width 90 0<br />
Chapter House . . diam. 63 0<br />
height 67 10<br />
Great Tower ....diam. 44 9<br />
height 180 0<br />
Organ Screen .... length 60 0<br />
height 24 0<br />
East Window height 76 9<br />
width 32 0<br />
West Window .... height 54 6<br />
width 25 6<br />
40<br />
CELEBEATED AECHBISHOPS.<br />
Since the consecration of<br />
this See there have been eightysix<br />
Archbishops, amongst whom may be mentioned the<br />
following<br />
Paulinns (625), the Apostle of the Northumbrians and<br />
first Archbishop.<br />
Egbert (731), the friend of Alcuin and literature, and<br />
founder of the old Minster Library.<br />
St. William (1153), canonised 125 years after his death.<br />
Geoffrey Plantagenet (1190), natural son of Henry 11.<br />
and Fair Eosamond.<br />
Walter de Grey (1216), who purchased the manor of<br />
Thorpe, now called Bishopthorpe, and built the palace there.<br />
John Thoresby (1352). It was in this prelate's time that<br />
the constant disputes for precedence between the Sees of<br />
Canterbury and York were decided by the Pope, who made<br />
the Archbishop of the former, Primate of All England.<br />
Eichard Scrope (1398), betrayed and beheaded for rebellion.<br />
George Neville (1464) was brother to the celebrated<br />
Earl of Warwick, the king-maker.<br />
Thomas de Eotherham (1480), having died of the plague^<br />
was buried in effigy in the Cathedral.<br />
Thomas Wolsey (1514), the celebrated Cardinal.<br />
Nicholas Heath (1555), the last Eoman Catholic Archbishop,<br />
was patronised by Queen Mary.<br />
Thos. Young (1561), a most avaricious man, who took<br />
down the great hall in the palace at York for the sake of<br />
the lead that covered it.<br />
Acceptus Frewen (1660), appointed to the See after it<br />
had remained vacant for ten years ;<br />
he lived in a state of<br />
celibacy, and would not even have a female servant.<br />
John Dolben (1683) was a soldier in his younger days,<br />
and served as ensign at the battle of Marston Moor, where he<br />
was dangerously wounded by a musket ball.<br />
The Hon. Edward Vernon Harcourt (1808). His Grace<br />
was born in 1757, educated at Westminster School, and<br />
afterwards removed to Christ Church, Oxford. He was<br />
Chaplain to the King, and Prebendary of Gloucester. In<br />
1785 he was appointed Canon of Christ Church ;<br />
in 1791,
41<br />
Bishop of Carlisle ; and was translated to tlie See of York;<br />
in 1808. Perhaps no prelate in ancient or modern times<br />
was more universally respected for his candour, disinterestedness,<br />
and liberality. The labouring poor of the<br />
village where he resided frequently beheld his cheering presence<br />
on the threshold of their cottages<br />
;<br />
and, in the absence<br />
of other ministers, he has been known to visit the humblest<br />
families to perform the sacred offices of religion.<br />
The present, and eighty-sixth prelate, is William Thomson,<br />
D.D., formerly Bishop of Gloucester and Bristol, translated.<br />
1863.<br />
The Archbishop of York, being Primate and Metropolitan<br />
of England, has the privilege of crowning the Queen<br />
Consort, and also is her perpetual chaplain.<br />
MINSTER YAED, DEANERY, &c.<br />
The Minster Yard.—The space of ground surrounding<br />
the Cathedral is called the Minster Yard. Before 1825 the<br />
approaches to the Minster were extremely narrow, being<br />
almost choked up with houses and other buildings. In that,<br />
year an Act was passed enabhng the Dean and Chapter to<br />
take steps for their enlargement and improvement. In 1839<br />
Peter Prison, or Hall of Pleas for the Liberty of St. Peter,<br />
which stood near the west end, was taken away, and a number<br />
of houses adjoining the church of St. Michael-le-Belfrey were<br />
pulled down. On the north side, called Deanery Gardens,<br />
masses of rubbish and the meanest buildings were allowed to<br />
exist, to the great disfigurement of the locality. These were all<br />
thrown down, the site covered with turf, and ornamented by<br />
two fine houses, the Deanery and Canons' residence. During<br />
the progress of these improvements, which are due in a great<br />
measure to the taste of Dean Cockburn, part of the cloisters<br />
of the old Archbishop's Palace, built by Archbishop Thomas,<br />
the first of that name (1070), were discovered forming the<br />
wall of a stable. These Anglo-Norman arches, some of the<br />
most ancient remains in the city, may be seen covered with<br />
ivy on the further side of the gardens.
42<br />
The Minster Library is the only other portion of the<br />
palace existing ;<br />
it was the chapel, and is a most interesting specimen<br />
of Early English architecture. Since 1808 it has been<br />
restored, and now contains upwards of 8,000 volumes and<br />
MSS., formerly kept in a small building attached to the south<br />
-side of the Minster. This present collection, it must be understood,<br />
is of modern formation. The ancient one, which was<br />
established by Archbishop Egbert (731 to 767) was most valuable,<br />
and was entrusted to the care of the learned Alcuin, in<br />
whose time students came from afar to avail themselves of the<br />
treasures it contained. This was unfortunately consimied by<br />
fire in 1069. The nucleus of the present one was formed in<br />
the seventeenth century by the presentation of 3,000 volumes<br />
by the widow of Archbishop Mathew. It has since been<br />
enriched by gifts from Lord Fairfax and others, and by the<br />
library of Dr. Fothergill, the non-juring minister of Skipwith.<br />
It is a commodious room, lighted at the west end by<br />
five lancet windows, filled with stained glass.<br />
Amongst the antiquarian and literary treasures it contains<br />
are : a copy of the Second Edition of Erasmus' New Testament,<br />
in Greek and Latin, two folio volumes, printed on<br />
vellum, by Frobenius at Basle.<br />
A MS. copy of Wickliffe's New Testament, on vellum, with<br />
autograph of Queen Elizabeth.<br />
Three MS. copies of the Vulgate, on vellum, of the time<br />
of Henry III. and Edward I.<br />
Also a number of valuable books printed by Caxton,<br />
Wynkyn de Worde, and Pynson.<br />
It is open to visitors free, on Mondays and Wednesdays,<br />
from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m., and on Saturdays from 2 till<br />
4 p.m.<br />
Adjoining is the Deanery, a large and handsome house,<br />
in the Tudor style, built of stone in 1827. The old<br />
Deanery was on the south-east side of the Minster Yard,<br />
the site now occupied by the School of Design.<br />
To the north-west is The Canons' Eesidence, also in the<br />
Tudor style, and intended for the accommodation of the four<br />
residentiary Canons during their quarterly term of office.<br />
York Probate Kegistry of the High Court of Justice, a<br />
semi-Gothic building, nearly opposite the south entrance to<br />
the Minster. Here are kept all wills for the North and East
43<br />
Hidings since January, 1858, any one of whicli may be seen,<br />
daily on payment of the customary fee of one shilling.<br />
St. William's College is in College-street, close to the<br />
east end of the Minster. It is a square block of buildings,<br />
principally Jacobean in style, having a quadrangular courtyard,<br />
the entrance to which is a gateway of late Perpendicular^<br />
surmounted by a figure of Saint William, much defaced by<br />
time. It was originally intended for the honour of Saint<br />
William for the parsons and chantry priests of the Cathedral<br />
to reside in, letters patent for that purpose having been<br />
granted by Henry YI. and confirmed by Edward IV. In<br />
one of the apartments the Eoyal Printing Press was set up<br />
in 1642 by Charles I. during his residence in the city. The<br />
college is now let off in tenements to poor people.<br />
A few doors down the street, close to the archway,<br />
on the same side, is the house and shop occupied by<br />
George Hudson, the Eailway King, in the early part of<br />
his career.<br />
The Bedern, in Goodramgate, opposite the end of Collegestreet<br />
(derived from hede to pray, now obsolete, and erne a<br />
detached dwelling), was once the exclusive residence of the<br />
Yicars Choral of the Cathedral. They were thirty-six in<br />
number, and, besides their daily duty in the choir, had to<br />
perform the ofiices for the dead, day and night. The College<br />
of the Vicars Choral was founded by Archbishop Walter de<br />
'Grey (1252). It was once the site of the palace of the Roman<br />
Emperors ; but now nothing remains of its former grandeur,<br />
the houses, which are in the most dilapidated condition, are<br />
tenanted by the lowest class of the labouring population.<br />
There is a Chapel of Ease belonging to the Minster, and<br />
dedicated to the Holy Trinity, the Vii'gin Mary, and St.<br />
Catherine ; it is a small stone building of debased GotKic<br />
(1348). Although public worship has not been performed<br />
here for many years, christening of children and churching of<br />
women have been solemnized until very recently.<br />
is very damp and rapidly falling to decay<br />
The chapel
THE WALLS AND BAES.<br />
The City Walls' and Bars form one of the most characteristic<br />
features of York.<br />
The date of their first erection cannot<br />
be accurately fixed.<br />
It is thought that the walls existed<br />
in ancient British times prior to the Eoman invasion. It is<br />
however, certain that the Eomans invested the city with a<br />
wall, as portions of their work may still be seen. The walls<br />
were repaired by Edward I., and in the third Edward's reign<br />
the city was thoroughly fortified, when no doubt, some<br />
portions of the present walls were built. In 1644 the<br />
walls and bars suffered much through the siege made by the<br />
army under General Fairfax and other parliamentarian leaders.<br />
On the western side of the city they are perfect, and form<br />
one of the pleasantest walks, commanding fine views of the<br />
Minster, Castle, Churches, and the immediate surrounding<br />
country. On the east side they are also complete from the<br />
river Foss (Fishergate postern) to the Red Tower. Prior<br />
to 1878 the walls from Layerthorpe to Lendal ran through<br />
private grounds, and were not available to the public, but<br />
now we are happy to state that, as far as Monk Bar, they<br />
are thoroughly repaired and open for promenade. We<br />
recommend the visitor to make the tour, commencing at<br />
North-street postern from Lendal Bridge ; on the right he<br />
will have a good view of the Museum and grounds which lay<br />
on the opposite side of the river, beyond which the village of<br />
Clifton may be seen with the ings ; the Hambleton hills in<br />
the distance. Two openings have recently been made in the<br />
walls for the convenience of railway traffic. On our right is<br />
the palace-like hotel of the North Eastern Railway Company<br />
and the new station, and at the foot of the ramparts is the<br />
cholera burial ground (1832). Coming to the north-west<br />
bastion, the hill where the Roman Emperor Severus is<br />
supposed to be buried, may be seen. By some his body is<br />
said to have been burnt here, and the ashes sent in an urn of<br />
porphyry to Rome. A few miles further westward is the<br />
historic ground of Marston Moor. Continuing on, we come<br />
to the grand old Micklegate Bar.
MICKLEGATE<br />
BAR, YORK
45<br />
MICKLEGATE BAR<br />
consists of a square tower built over a single arch,<br />
with embattled turrets at the angles, each turret mounted<br />
with a stone figure of a warder. There are shields in<br />
the front of the bar bearing the arms of England and<br />
France quarterly, the arms of the city, each with a canopy<br />
above them; also those of Sir John Lister Kaye, Bart.,<br />
Lord Mayor in 1727, during whose year of office this bar was<br />
renovated. On the inside, the arms of England with Franc6<br />
are again sculptured. The side arches are modern, the<br />
chambers are at present inhabited. It was on this bar that<br />
the heads of many notorious traitors have been exposed.<br />
The date of its erection is about 1300 ;<br />
the chief arch<br />
on the outer side is supposed by many to be of Roman<br />
work. The barbican was removed in 1826, and the portcullis<br />
more recently.<br />
Continuing our walk on the walls, passing the Nunnery<br />
with its grounds on our right, Scarcroft and Knavesmire<br />
in the distance, we reach Victoria Bar, a modern<br />
opening. A little beyond this a grand view of the<br />
Minster is to be had, giving an idea of its noble<br />
proportions. At the south-west bastion we overlook the<br />
suburbs of Clementhorpe and the road leading to Bishopthorpe.<br />
Turning the angle we soon arrive at Skeldergate<br />
Postern, having Baile Hill on our left, on which, in ancient<br />
times, the Archbishops had a prison, and in more modern<br />
times, in the hollow, the city j air was built, but which is now<br />
taken down. At our feet is the river, beyond it the Castle<br />
and hoary Keep of Clifford's Tower ;<br />
to the right may be seen<br />
the New Walk, a very pleasant path along the left bank of the<br />
river leading to the pretty village of Fulford : the spire of the<br />
church may be discerned peeping out from among the trees.<br />
Descending the steps, let us cross the river by the new iron<br />
bridge; on our left are some remains of the old walls, running<br />
up to Tower Street; in front are new buildings attached<br />
to the Assize Courts, consisting of rooms and offices for the<br />
grand jury, barristers, and witnesses. Crossing Castle Mills<br />
Bridge over the river Foss, just beyond is the square tower<br />
or keep of Fishergate postern, an erection of the fifteenth<br />
century. Passing through the archway, we mount the walls
46<br />
again, and very shortly come to the old postern gate of<br />
George-street. On our right we pass the spacious Cattle<br />
Market, beyond which may be seen the new War Offices^,<br />
the campanile tower of Melbourne Street Wesleyan Chapel<br />
to the left the elevated ground whereon the besieging army<br />
was encamped in 1644, now occupied by the Retreat, an<br />
asylum for the insane, belonging to the Society of Friends^-<br />
We now arrive at<br />
WALMGATE BAE,<br />
*<br />
the most unique and only one in England with barbican complete.<br />
The bar itself consists of a square tower, with turretsat<br />
the angles, but not so lofty as any of the others, and<br />
barbican, which was rebuilt in 1648, after the siege. This<br />
bar was erected in the reign of Edward L, and the barbican<br />
in that of Edward III. Above the entrance on the inside,<br />
and partly supported on stone pillars, is a domestic building<br />
of timber and plaster of the time of Elizabeth. The old<br />
doors, wickets, and portcullis still exist in a state of good<br />
preservation. The arms of Henry Y., England and France,<br />
quarterly, ornament the front of the bar, and those of the<br />
city the front of the barbican, with the date of its restoration.<br />
The wall beyond the bar to the eastward is the oldest<br />
portion, and consists for some distance of a series of irregular<br />
arches of rude stonework of great antiquity, by some supposed<br />
to be the work of Eoman hands. A short distance<br />
further on is the Red Tower, so called from being built of brick,,<br />
with which the walls end on this side the city. From Walmgate<br />
Bar to this point they are in good repair, and are available<br />
as a promenade ; but being low, and the country very<br />
flat, no good views are to be had : the spire of Heworth Church<br />
is seen on the horizon. From the Red Tower to Layerthorpe<br />
Bridge the city was protected in ancient times by the river<br />
Foss, so that a wall was considered unnecessary. Crossing<br />
the Foss Islands, as this low, marshy piece of ground is called^<br />
to Layerthorpe, and over the bridge, we come to where<br />
formerly stood a tower or keep. Ascending the steps, we<br />
proceed onwards to Monk Bar, having on the outside of the<br />
walls Jewbury (in ancient times the Jews' quarter) and<br />
Barker Hill, with a view of the County Hospital, the Gas-<br />
Works, and the new church of St. Maurice close to the Bar.<br />
On the inside we see St. Cuthbert's Church, and overlook
47<br />
the Blue Coat Boys' School, with its play-ground and gardens,,<br />
and the Merchant Tailors' Hall, shortly arriving at<br />
MONK BAE,<br />
so called after General Monk, the hero of the Eestoration<br />
formerly Goodramgate Bar. It is the loftiest of the four, is<br />
Decorated in style, and is the most perfect specimen of its<br />
kind in the kingdom. It consists of a massive square tower,<br />
over an archway, having a groined roof of stone, with boldly<br />
corbelled and embattled turrets, at the angles of which are<br />
massive and grotesque figures in the act of hurling stones at<br />
an imaginary foe. The front of the bar is ornamented with<br />
the arms of England and France, quarterly, with a knight's<br />
helmet as crest, under a canopy, and the arms of the city on<br />
each side. The iron spikes at the bottom of the old portcullis<br />
still hang in threatening attitude above the ancient gateway.<br />
The interior is of two stories, with vaulted chambers, and<br />
was formerly used as a prison.<br />
Proceeding down Lord Mayor's Walk, the walls may be<br />
seen in very good condition, with here and there on the<br />
inside unsightly excrescences, in the shape of summer-houses<br />
and other similar buildings, impinged upon them ; but<br />
running through private property, are unfortunately not<br />
available to the public. From the corner of Gillygate to<br />
BOOTHAM BAE<br />
the walls are entirely hidden by houses. This bar is a square<br />
tower, similar in form to the others, built on a Norman arch<br />
has turrets at the corners, on which are figures of stone. It<br />
is supposed to have been erected about the fourteenth century,<br />
though some portions are of a later date. The front of the<br />
bar is ornamented with two shields, bearing the city arms,<br />
and one within a garter in a decayed condition. The portcullis<br />
may still be seen in its ancient position.<br />
From this point to the Multangular Tower, on to the entrance<br />
lodge of the Museum (with the exception of a few yards<br />
in front of the Exhibition building and at St. Leonard's Hospital)<br />
down to Lendal Tower, the walls exist in a good state of<br />
preservation. Portions of the boundary walls to the grounds,<br />
of St. Mary's Abbey are still in existence, running behind the<br />
houses on the south side of Bootham to the old tower or keep<br />
at the corner of Marygate. This was blown up during
48<br />
the last siege of the city, when many valuable documents<br />
were destroyed. At the bottom of the same street, close to<br />
the river, is another bastion, called St. Mary's Tower, where<br />
were outworks or guard-posts of observation. Having com-<br />
;pleted our survey of the walls, we will now visit The Museum.<br />
THE<br />
MUSEUM.<br />
MUSEUM GARDENS, EUINS OF ST. MARY'S ABBEY,<br />
ST. LEONARD'S HOSPITAL,<br />
MULTANGULAR TOWER, MUSEUM, AND<br />
HOSPITIUM.<br />
The above are situate on a plot of ground extending from<br />
Esplanade to the<br />
Museum Street to Marygate, and from the<br />
back of the School for the Blind, the entrance being in<br />
Museum Street. On passing through the gate and turning<br />
to the right, we enter the ruins of<br />
ST.<br />
LEONARD'S HOSPITAL,<br />
said to have been founded in 936 by Athelstane for the<br />
relief of sick and indigent poor. All that remains of this<br />
once large and wealthy establishment is the entrance passage<br />
leading to the ambulatory or covered cloisters of transition<br />
Norman^ at the east end of which is a small room. Above is<br />
the chapel, of Early English^ and the infirmary, so arranged<br />
as to give the sick the benefit and consolation of hearing<br />
divine service. Many privileges were granted by William<br />
the Conqueror, William Rufus, Henry I., and King Stephen.<br />
In the middle ages its revenues were enormous, but its former<br />
prosperity had sadly diminished at the time of the dissolution<br />
by Henry VIII. A few paces further on is the<br />
MULTANGULAR TOWER,<br />
with ten sides, forming nine obtuse angles, hence its name.<br />
It is undoubtedly Roman work, as is proved by inscriptions<br />
on stones discovered near the foundation. A few feet above<br />
the ground five rows of Roman tiles are built into the wall,<br />
the upper part being of mediseval date, and is of great<br />
interest to the antiquary. Both here and in the Hospital of<br />
St. Leonard's are a number of stone coffins. Passing the<br />
Curator's residence, we arrive at the
49<br />
MUSEUM OF THE YORKSHIRE PHILOSOPHICAL<br />
SOCIETY,<br />
ivith its Doric portico. It contains lecture hall or theatre,<br />
council room, library, offices, and a suite of rooms in which<br />
are arranged collections in every division of natural history,<br />
with objects of antiquarian interest and research. It was<br />
erected in 1827 from designs by W. Wilkins, R.A., and<br />
opened February 2nd, 1830, the first president being<br />
the Rev. William V. Harcourt, M.A., F.R.S. No detailed<br />
description of the contents can be given in a notice like the<br />
present, but some of the more remarkable objects may be<br />
alluded to. Hanging on the walls of the theatre are three<br />
large tapestry maps of different parts of England, executed<br />
in 1588. They are amongst the earliest products of the art<br />
in this coimtry, and were presented by Archbishop Harcourt<br />
in 1827. They were once the property of Horace Walpole.<br />
The room on the right contains a valuable collection of the<br />
skeletons of birds, made by Mr. AUis, of York, and purchased<br />
by the Council for £350 in 1838. In the centre cases are<br />
arranged British and foreign shells ; there are also a few<br />
skeletons of mammalia and reptiles of equal interest. The<br />
next room contains stuffed birds with brilliant plumage, and<br />
among them the apteryx or wingless bird from New Zealand.<br />
Adjoining this is that set apart for the display of mineralogical<br />
and geological specimens.<br />
There is also a perfect skeleton of the Dinorms Bobustus<br />
or Moa, from New Zealand, presented by J. H. Gibson, Esq.<br />
This bird is over eight feet high, its thigh bones are like<br />
those of an ox, and is the finest specimen of the genus<br />
known.<br />
In 1857 remains of the Ichthyosaurus were discovered at<br />
Whitby, and presented by the Rev. D. R. Roundell, which<br />
necessitated an enlargement of the premises. Three new<br />
rooms were added, the expense being defrayed by an appeal<br />
to the county, when upwards of ^^1,000 was obtained.<br />
There are also two Plesiosaurt, one contributed in 1854 by<br />
Col. Chomley, the other by the Earl of Zetland. These<br />
examples of Saurian monsters cannot fail to attract the<br />
attention of the visitor.<br />
In 1878 the trustees of the Museum received from<br />
William Reed, Esq., F.G.S., a citizen of York, one of the
50<br />
finest and most perfect geological collections ever formed^<br />
by an amateur geologist. We copy the following by permission<br />
from the report of the Yorkshire Philosophical Society<br />
(1878) "<br />
: The collection presented by Mr. Reed has been<br />
formed at a great cost over a period of many years, and has<br />
been well known to geologists as one of the most valuable<br />
private collections in the United Kingdom. The Council<br />
congratulate the Society' on its possession, and which when<br />
displayed in the Society's rooms will raise our Museum to<br />
the first rank among similar scientific institutions in this<br />
country. The arrangement of the collection will be a work<br />
of some time, and is now being actively and systematically<br />
carried out under the personal superintendence of Mr. Reed,<br />
aided by Dr. Purves, the recently appointed keeper of the<br />
Museum. The collection presented by Mr. Reed consists<br />
of : 1. A complete series of shells of the land, fresh water,<br />
and marine mollusca of Great Britain, comprising many fine<br />
specimens of the later species, and several of those forms<br />
first ascertained to be still living members of the British<br />
Fauna during the dredging expedition of the Lightning and<br />
Porcupine. 2. An extensive collection of mammalian remains<br />
from English post -tertiary deposits, remarkable among<br />
which, for their fine state of preservation, are the teeth and,<br />
bones of rhinoceros, horse hippopotamus, urus, megaceros.<br />
elephant, bear, lion, hyaena, beaver, &c. 3. A large series of<br />
shells of the same period, from fluviatite and marine deposits<br />
in various parts of England, Scotland, and Ireland. 4. A<br />
magnificent collection of fossils from the Norwich, Red and<br />
Coralline Crags. The suite of vertebrate remains, especially,<br />
are of great value. This is probably the finest private<br />
collection of crag fossils in England, and it is doubtful whether<br />
it can be equalled in any of our great public museums.<br />
5. A fine series of plant remains from the miocene beds<br />
of Bovey, Tracey and Antrim, which, with similar lacustrine<br />
deposits in Mull, are the only formations of mid-tertiary age<br />
in the British Isles. The animal life of the period is illustrated<br />
by a collection of shells from the neighbourhood of<br />
Bordeaux and Cannes in the South of France. 6. A large<br />
collection of eocene fossils in a beautiful state of preservation,,<br />
and in which the several sub-divisions of the deposits of that<br />
period in England are fully represented. 7. An extensive
51<br />
assemblage of fossils from the chalk, greensand, Gault,<br />
Neocomian and Wealden. Many of the siiicified forms are<br />
shown in beautifully polished sections. 8. A very large and<br />
valuable series of Jurassic forms. 9. All the British Palaeozoic<br />
formations are well represented, especially the, carboniferous<br />
limestone of Yorkshire in the neighbourhood of Settle, of<br />
whose fossils there is a fine collection (upwards of two<br />
hundred species). An invaluable feature from a scientific<br />
point of view in Mr. Eeed's collection is the great care which<br />
has been taken to indicate the exact locality from which the<br />
several specimens have been obtained, so that thorough<br />
reliance may be placed in them as geological data."<br />
There is also a large collection of Yorkshire fossils<br />
found in Elirkdale Cave— the gigantic fossil Irish elk, the<br />
"Rudston" collection of British birds, numerous Roman,<br />
Saxon, and other coins, an old mortar (1308), once belonging<br />
to the adjoining abbey, &c., &c., full catalogue of which may<br />
be obtained at the lodge.<br />
On the plot of ground occupied by this building, the residence<br />
of the Lords President of the North was erected in<br />
Henry VIII. 's time.<br />
At the further end of the grounds are the picturesque<br />
ruins of<br />
ST.<br />
MARY'S ABBEY,<br />
in a good state of preservation, though only small in extent.<br />
It was a Benedictine monastery, founded in 1078 by<br />
Stephen, a monk from Whitby, who having obtained,<br />
through the patronage of Alan, Earl of Richmond, the<br />
Church of St. Olave, with four acres of land, built thereon<br />
the Abbey of St. Mary's, which was partially destroyed by<br />
fire in the reign of King Stephen. In 1270, the building,<br />
of which the present ruins are the remains, was commenced,<br />
and completed in twenty-four years. The Mitred Abbot<br />
was one of the great dignitaries of the land, had a seat in<br />
Parliament, which entitled him to be addressed as My<br />
Lord," possessed several country houses, and a residence in<br />
London. His retinue when he travelled was always exceedingly<br />
numerous. At the dissolution this abbey was taken<br />
possession of by the Crown, condemned as useless, and was<br />
partially pulled down to furnish materials for the building
52<br />
of the King's Manor and the residence for the Lords President<br />
of the North.<br />
It was further desecrated and despoiled in order to repair<br />
the Church of St. Olave, the City Jail, the Castle, and Beverley<br />
Minster ;<br />
it is • even said that a kiln was erected to convert<br />
the stone into lime. Its destruction would have been<br />
complete, but for the timely intervention of the Yorkshire<br />
Philosophical Society, who obtained a grant of land from the<br />
Crown for their museum and ground which included the<br />
remains of this once splendid and venerable pile. The ruins<br />
now consist of the north wall of the nave, with a portion of<br />
the west front, the bases of several pillars, and of the four<br />
central piers that supported the tower. The wall has eight<br />
windows of the Decorated period, varied alternately in<br />
design, with indications of the beautiful tracery that once<br />
adorned them. A panelled arcade of pointed arches runs<br />
underneath the windows. The full length was 371 feet<br />
by 60 wide. The ruins are beautiful in their decay, and are<br />
most religiously cared for by the society which owns the<br />
ground.<br />
Walking towards the river, on the northern or Marygate<br />
side of the grounds, we find an old Norman arch, with<br />
building attached This seems to have been the principal<br />
entrance to the Abbey. The ground floor of this gatehouse<br />
was formerly used as a prison for debtors in the liberties of<br />
St. Mary's, the court being held by the Steward in the upper<br />
story. It was some years ago thoroughly restored and<br />
raade into a dwelling-house, Professor Phillips, late curator,<br />
being its first occupant.<br />
Here it may not be amiss to draw attention to the Abbey<br />
Walls and the history of their erection. In 1282 the monks<br />
and citizens appear to have not been on the best of terms<br />
with each other; for, in the Annals of the Convent, we read<br />
that, in consequence of sundry disputes, several of the<br />
inmates of the Abbey were slain and much property<br />
destroyed. The ill-feeling being only partly appeased, the<br />
monks obtained permission from the King to build walls on<br />
each unprotected side. The remains of these walls, which<br />
were constructed as regular fortifications, with towers at<br />
certain distances, may still be seen behind the houses from<br />
Bootham Bar to Marygate Tower, at the corner of that
53<br />
street, and thence down to the river, terminating in the<br />
west tower. In<br />
MAEYGATE TOWER<br />
were stored all the records of the Abbey, the ancient<br />
writings of all similar houses north of the Trent at the dissolution,<br />
as well as some of the royal records of Chancery.<br />
On Trinity Sunday, 1644, during the siege of York, this<br />
tower was blown up, many of the records destroyed, and<br />
numbers of people buried in the ruins. Nearer to the river is<br />
THE HOSPITIUM,<br />
the ground floor of which is supposed to have been the<br />
Refectory, the upper the Dormitory for the accommodation<br />
of such guests as could not be received in the main building<br />
of the Abbey. The lower part is of stone, the upper (a<br />
modern restoration) is of timber and plaster work, or<br />
"post and pane," as it is usually termed. It is now stored<br />
with British, Roman, and Saxon remains, Egyptian antiquities,<br />
and Samian ware. There are very perfect examples<br />
of tesselated pavement found in or near the city, and probably<br />
the most unique collection of ancient coffins in the<br />
world. In a glass case is also shewn a coil of hair from the<br />
head of a young Roman lady, fastened with jet pins, which<br />
was found preserved in a lead coffin enclosed within another<br />
of stone, and dating from about the year 200 after Christ.<br />
Adjoining the Hospitium, on the south, is a Norman arch,<br />
one of the entrances to the old Abbey grounds.<br />
The gardens are tastefully laid out, the green sward<br />
sloping down to the river always beautifully kept, and here<br />
and there are strewn about various objects of interest.<br />
THE OBSERVATORY,<br />
A small building in the centre, with circular roof by<br />
Smeaton, the great engineer, possesses a refracting telescope<br />
4J inches in diameter, presented the late by W. Gray, Esq.<br />
Occasionally during the summer season a selection of<br />
music is performed, the grounds affording a pleasant promenade<br />
much appreciated by the citizens.<br />
Admission : either by members' order or on pajrment of<br />
one shilling, except when music is performed, when the fee<br />
is only sixpence. Large parties of excursionists (if not less<br />
than twenty) are admitted at threepence each on showing
54<br />
tlieir railway tickets. The gates are open from ten a.m. till<br />
dusk, and on Sundays to subscribers only. The Museum is<br />
closed at six p.m. in summer and four in winter.<br />
THE MANSION HOUSE,<br />
The official residence of the Lord Mayor, is situate at<br />
the end of Coney Street, facing St. Helen's Square. It<br />
was erected in 1725, from designs by that noble architect,<br />
the Earl of Burlington, and is a plain brick building,<br />
with the city arms emblazoned on its pediment. At the<br />
entrance, to the right is the robing-room, in which are kept<br />
the official robes of the Lord Mayor and Aldermen, and<br />
the original Cap of Maintenance^ given by King Eichard II.<br />
That on the left is the dining or reception-room, where<br />
may be seen the Sword of State, given by the Emperor<br />
Sigismund, father-in-law of Eichard II. ; the Mace,<br />
very large, silver gilt, and richly adorned; also a smaller<br />
sword, given by Sir Martin Bowes, Lord Mayor of London,<br />
which is used on ordinary occasions. A portrait of Drake,<br />
the historian of the city, hangs over the mantel-piece.<br />
In a safe in the butler's pantry is deposited the plate, a most<br />
valuable collection, presented at various times by different<br />
members of the Corporate Body.<br />
Some of the more remarkable<br />
pieces are '<br />
The Lord Mayor's gold chain of office.<br />
The official chain belonging to the Lady Mayoress ;<br />
this<br />
is unique, being the only one in the kingdom.<br />
The loving cup of gold (1672).<br />
Six large silver tankards (1673).<br />
A massive silver gilt cup (1679).<br />
Ascending the staircase is a fine portrait of George<br />
Hudson, Esq., M.P., thrice Lord Mayor, and generally<br />
known as the '^Eailway King," painted by Sir Francis<br />
Grant, E.A., in 1848.<br />
Opposite is Lodovick Stewart, K.G., Duke of Lennox, Lord<br />
Chamberlain, to James L, presented in 1743 by John Mayer,<br />
Esq., Lord Mayor.<br />
The State-room is entered through folding doors, above<br />
which is the orchestra, and is 50 by 28 feet. In this room<br />
are several portraits.
55<br />
First, on the right, is George, Prince of Wales, in the<br />
Tobes of the Garter, presented to the city by H.R.H. in 1811,<br />
painted by HofFner.<br />
Second, Sir William M. Milner, Bart., M.P. for the city,<br />
Lord Mayor in 1787 and 1798, painted by Hoffner, at the<br />
expense of the Corporation, as a tribute of affection and<br />
regard.<br />
Third, Sir John Lister Kaye, Bart., M.P. for the city<br />
(1784), Lord Mayor in 1737.<br />
Over the fireplace is a representation of the Sword, Mace,<br />
Cap of Maintenance, and Arms of the City.<br />
Fourth, Robert Benson, Esq., Baron Bingley, M.P. for the<br />
city, 1705, and Lord Mayor, 1707.<br />
Fifth and sixth, King William III. and George II. These<br />
two portraits were painted by Anthony Highmore, and presented<br />
by the Marquis of Rockingham to the Rockingham<br />
Club at York in 1757; placed in this room in 1783.<br />
Over the fireplace are the Arms of England.<br />
Seventh, Lord Rockingham, painted by Sir<br />
Joshua Reynolds,<br />
presented to the Corporation by Lord Fitzwilliam,<br />
May, 1783.<br />
Eighth, the Right Hon. Lord Dundas, M.P. for York, and<br />
thrice Lord Mayor, 1822.<br />
The paintings are all full size, and elegantly framed.<br />
The room is lofty, and lighted with two rows of windows.<br />
It is ornamented with fluted columns, having composite<br />
capitals, and elaborately decorated.<br />
Strangers are only admitted by special permission of the<br />
Lord Mayor.<br />
THE GUILDHALL<br />
Is at the back of the Mansion House, and is approached<br />
through the wide archway under that building. It was<br />
erected in 1446 by the Mayor, Commonalty, and Members<br />
of the Guild of St. Christopher. It is a room of Perpendicular<br />
Gothic^ ninety-three feet by forty-three, and<br />
twenty-nine and a half feet high. The roof is of open<br />
timber work, supported by ten octagonal columns of oak in<br />
two rows, each column being cut out of a single tree, thus<br />
dividing the room into nave and two aisles. The bosses in<br />
the roof are very fine carvings in oak, some of them originally<br />
taken from St. Anthony's Hall. It is lighted by fourteen
56<br />
ivindows, nine of wliicli are filled with beautifully stained<br />
glass (the remaining five it is hoped will shortly be filled<br />
iilso), the whole fourteen illustrating different periods of the<br />
history of England, in which York has taken a prominent<br />
part—of which the following is a description<br />
First window on the left was given by Sir James Meek, Kt.,<br />
thrice Lord Mayor, in 1856, 1865, and 1867, and illustrates the<br />
Roman Period.<br />
In the upper compartments of the window are— 1st, the<br />
arms of the city of York, encircled by the Lord Mayor's<br />
chain, and above the shield the city cap of maintenance.<br />
2nd. The monogram (on a shield), crest, and motto of Sir<br />
James Meek, the shield encircled with the Lord Mayor's<br />
chain.<br />
In the centre of<br />
the window is represented the election of<br />
Constantine the Great, as Emperor at York, July a.d. 306.<br />
On the death of Constantius Chlorus, who expired at<br />
Eboracum (York) on the 25th July, 306, his son Constantine<br />
was immediately chosen by the Eoman and British soldiery^<br />
to succeed him in the empire of the west.<br />
The young Prince was at once invested in the palace with<br />
the imperial mantle of his father ; and though reluctant (it<br />
is said), was finally induced to accept the proffered dignity<br />
by the urgent persuasions of all present, but especially by<br />
the influence of Eroc, a German king, who had come to<br />
Britain as an auxiliary of Constantius.<br />
Constantine habited in a mourning cloak is represented as<br />
receiving the principal military and civil authorities (among<br />
the former of whom would be the commanders of the sixth<br />
or victorious legion so long stationed at York), who bring<br />
him the sceptre, the golden orb, the laurel crown, and the<br />
imperial mantle.<br />
The young Prince, hesitating at first to take upon himseK<br />
the burden of the empire, is beginning to yield to the persuasions<br />
of Eroc, who urges him to grasp the sceptre without<br />
further delay.<br />
The portrait of Constantine has been carefully studied<br />
from his coins in the British Museum.<br />
In the lower compartments are introduced on each side<br />
the Roman eagle ;<br />
and in the middle the monogram of our<br />
Saviour, which Constantine after his conversion adopted as a
57<br />
device for the imperial standard. This window is from a<br />
design by J. E. Doyle, Esq., author of "The Chronicles of<br />
England," and was manufactured by Messrs. John Hardman<br />
and Son, of Birmingham.<br />
The second window was the gift of Eobt. Farrer, Esq.^<br />
Sheriff of York in 1858—and illustrates the<br />
Anglo Saxon Period.<br />
King Edgar grants permission to the men of the north to<br />
make their own laws. In the upper compartments of the<br />
window are— 1st, the arms of the city of York surmounted by<br />
the cap of maintenance ; and 2nd, the arms, crest, and motto<br />
of the donor. In the centre of the window is King Edgar,<br />
who, standing before his throne and holding the sceptre,<br />
announces to the ecclesiastical and military chiefs of the<br />
north his grant to them of the privilege of making or<br />
choosing the laws for themselves. It is my will," he says,<br />
" that the temporal laws of the Danes shall be observed<br />
according to the best form which they can choose." .<br />
''And I have given this permission on account of your<br />
fidelity to me, in which you have promised always to continue.*'<br />
"<br />
. . . Let Earl Oslac, then, and all the host<br />
dwelling in this earldom take care that this be observed for<br />
the glory of God, the need of all our souls, and the tranquillity<br />
of the people."<br />
On the right of the king is his chancellor holding the<br />
charter recording the commission. Next the chancellor is<br />
Oskytel, Archbishop of York, and his attendants.<br />
On the opposite side is Oslac, Earl of Northumbria, who<br />
is called in the Saxon chronicle " the beloved hero," "hoary<br />
headed," "wise and wordskilled." With him are other<br />
northern chiefs, one of whom bears aloft the royal sword of<br />
state.<br />
Behind these chiefs is the dragon, the ensign of Wessex,<br />
Edgar's principal kingdom. As Edgar abstained during<br />
many years of his reign from wearing his crown, it has beert<br />
omitted in this representation of him.<br />
In the lower compartments of the window are introduced<br />
the dragon, the raven, and the white horse, the ensigns of<br />
Wessex, Northumbria, and Kent.<br />
This is from the design of J. E. Doyle, Esq., and was^<br />
made by Messrs. James Powell and Son, of London.
58<br />
The third window was given by Eichard Audns Clark,<br />
Esq., as a memorial of his father, Sir William Stephenson<br />
dark, Kt., Lord Mayor in 1840, and illustrates the<br />
Norman Period.<br />
In the upper compartment are the arms of the City of<br />
York, surmounted by the cap of maintenance, and encircled<br />
by the Lord Mayor s chain ;<br />
and in the corresponding<br />
division, a shield containing the monogram of the donor,<br />
over which is his crest. The subject commemorated in this window<br />
is the meeting of the northern barons at York, in August,<br />
1138, to concert measures for the defence of the country<br />
against the Scots, who, under King David I., were ab-eady<br />
in possession of the border counties. In the centre stands<br />
Thurstan, the archbishop, who in this emergency had been<br />
appointed lieutenant in the North by King Stephen, and who,<br />
in spite of his age and infirmities, had greatly exerted himself<br />
to animate the spirit of the barons and to encourage<br />
them to make a stout resistance. He holds in his right hand<br />
a banner (probably taken from the cathedral) which on this<br />
occasion he entrusted to their care. To his right (in a<br />
scarlet cloak) is William le Gros, Earl of Albemarle and<br />
Lord of Holderness, who, as the noble of highest rank present,<br />
is supposed to have had the nominal command of the<br />
forces assembled. With him appears Roger de Mowbray,<br />
who, though still a boy, had been brought to the army with<br />
the vassals of his great estates. Next to them is Bernard de<br />
Baliol, who commanded the small force which was all that<br />
Stephen could spare for the defence of his northern subjects.<br />
His hand presses the hilt of his sword as he promises his<br />
.<br />
best assistance. On the opposite side is Walter Espec, a<br />
baron of very extraordinary strength and stature, who from<br />
his long experience in the art of war, joined to a most<br />
amiable and venerable character, was revered as a father and<br />
obeyed as a general by the whole army." He is in the act<br />
of extending his right hand towards the standard, which he<br />
vows to defend. More to the front is Gilbert de Lacy of<br />
Pontefract, placing his sword at the service of the King's<br />
representative, and behind is William de Percy, with his<br />
sword upraised. In the compartments below are the arms of<br />
Albemarle, King Stephen, and De Lacy.
59<br />
It is the work of J. B. Capronnier, of Brussels, and is from<br />
the design of J. E. Doyle, Esq., of London, author of the<br />
Chronicles of England."<br />
The fourth window was given by Alderman Thomas<br />
Cabry, sheriff in 1861, and is illustrative of the<br />
Plantagenet Period (1298).<br />
In the upper part are, on one side, the arms of the City<br />
of York, surmounted by the cap of maintenance ;<br />
and, on<br />
the other, the monogram on a shield, the device and<br />
the motto of the donor. The event commemorated is the<br />
confirmation of the Great Charter in a parliament held at<br />
York, on January 15th, 1298, in the reign of King Edward<br />
the First. The English authority having been recently overthrown<br />
in Scotland, the king, who was abroad at the time,<br />
engaged in war with France, summoned a parliament to<br />
meet at York under the Earl of Surrey, his lieutenant in the<br />
North, in order to provide for the subjugation of the Scots.<br />
The Parliament met on the morrow of St Hilary, and immediately<br />
resolved that the confirmation of the Great and<br />
Forest Charters which had been, in the previous November,<br />
wrung from the king, should be ratified and published anew.<br />
Accordingly, the parliament having met in the Cathedral<br />
Church, the Bishop of Carlisle (the see of York being then<br />
vacant), standing in full pontificals between the Constable<br />
and Marshal of England, read to the assembly the Great<br />
Charter with the newly added articles (among which was<br />
the celebrated statute, De Tallagio non concedendo)^ and<br />
then pronounced sentence of excommunication against all<br />
those who should violate the same. It is the moment after<br />
the conclusion of this ceremony which furnishes the subject<br />
depicted in this window. On the left is John de Halton,<br />
Bishop of Carlisle, who, after having performed his solemn<br />
function, still holds in his hands the Charter, and looks to<br />
the representative of the king for his public assent to what<br />
has been done. Behind the bishop are Humphrey de Bohun,<br />
Earl of Hereford, the Constable, and Eichard Bigod, Earl of<br />
Norfolk, the Marshal of England, two noblemen who by<br />
their firmness at this period greatly aided in securing and<br />
extending the liberties of their country. In the centre is<br />
John de Warrenne, Earl of Surrey, guardian of Scotland,<br />
and lieutenant in the North, who, in the kings name,
60<br />
ratifies the confirmation of the Charters. To the right are<br />
the Earls of Gloucester and Arundel, with Henry de Percyrepresenting<br />
the barons. Behind them stand a serjeant-atlaw,<br />
and a serjeant-at-arms with his mace. In the lower<br />
compartments are the arms of Bigod (left) ; Warrenne<br />
(centre) ;<br />
and De Bohun (right). This window was designed<br />
by Mr. Doyle, and made by Mr. Wailes, of Newcastle-on-Tyne.<br />
The fifth window was presented by Mr. Alderman William<br />
Walker, Lord Mayor in 1872, and is also illustrative of the<br />
Plantagenet Period (1319),<br />
the description of which may be premised by the following<br />
short historical account:— ''In the autumn of the<br />
year 1319, King Edward the Second was engaged with<br />
the chief military forces of England in the attempt to<br />
recover the town of Berwick, which had lately been taken<br />
by Eobert Bruce. In order to draw the English off from<br />
their enterprise, an army of 15,000 Scots, under two<br />
of their best generals, Randolph and Douglas, made a dash<br />
by way of the western borders into Yorkshire, and ravaged<br />
the country without stint or mercy, up to the gates of York<br />
itself. In this emergency William de Melton, the Archbishop,<br />
and John de Hotham, Chancellor of England who was then<br />
in the city, summoned every available man to arms, and in a<br />
short time a considerable force, including some hundreds of<br />
ecclesiastics, came to unite with the citizens of York, who<br />
had arrayed themselves under the command of the Mayor.<br />
*<br />
The people of York,' says Walsingham, considering ' the<br />
enormities perpetrated by the Scots, and general indignation<br />
being excited, 10,000 Englishmen assembled and went forth<br />
to avenge the slaughter of their fellow-citizens and countrymen.'<br />
Nicholas Fleming, Mayor of York, seems to have been<br />
the chief layman in command of the whole force, but the<br />
Archbishop and Chancellor accompanied it ; and he, perhaps,<br />
carried away by the popular feeling of indignation, led his<br />
men out of the city, and marched straight in search of the<br />
enemy. Hurrying forward, however, without due military<br />
precautions, this brave but rash multitude was taken at every<br />
possible disadvantage by the veteran Scottish army, at Mittonon-the-Swale<br />
(now Myton), and completely defeated with<br />
great slaughter, the Mayor and 300 priests being among the<br />
victims of their patriotic ardour. Such was the historic event
61<br />
Avhich furnished the incident commemorated in this window,<br />
namely, the departure of Nicholas Fleming and his fellow<br />
citizens for the field.<br />
In the upper lights of the window are two shields, one<br />
containing the arms of the City of York; the other the<br />
monogram of William Walker, Esq., and each surrounded<br />
hy the Lord Mayor's chain. In the middle portion is<br />
seen Nicholas Fleming and the armed citizens ready to<br />
commence their march against the enemy. The Mayor holds<br />
in his right hand the baton of military command, while his<br />
left grasps the hilt of his sword. Behind him, to his right,<br />
is the banner bearer of the city, presumably a professional<br />
soldier of knightly rank, the Barons Fitzwalter having held<br />
the corresponding office in London. The banner itself has<br />
only the red cross of St. George, which represents the flag of<br />
England of that time. Behind the Mayor is a page carrying<br />
his shield, which is diapered only, and without heraldic<br />
bearings, though Fleming may very likely have been entitled<br />
to them. To his left is the alderman who has taken charge<br />
of the city for the time, and one of his brethren, who is<br />
too old for warfare ; both are wishing the Mayor God<br />
'<br />
speed ! ' To his right, and also behind the figures already<br />
mentioned, are the citizens, in full military equipment, waiting<br />
only for the word to march. In the lowest compartments<br />
are the shields of Sir Simon Warde, Sheriff of Yorkshire, King<br />
Edward II., and of England or St. George." It is the work<br />
of Capronnier, of Brussels, after a design by Mr. Doyle.<br />
The sixth window was erected by public subscription, in<br />
memory of William Fox Clark, Esq., twice lord mayor (1862<br />
and 1863), and is illustrative of a still later event of the<br />
Plantagenet Period (1328).<br />
" In the highest light of the window is introduced<br />
the White Swan, a favourite badge of King Edward<br />
III. In the compartment immediately below, to the left<br />
of the spectator, is the shield of the arms of the<br />
city of York, surmounted by the cap of maintenance ; as in<br />
the windows already placed on this side of the hall. In the<br />
corresponding compartment is the monogram on a shield,<br />
and the crest of Mr. Clark. The above and other lesser<br />
lights in the tracery are filled with a foliage of oak leaves.<br />
The subject commemorated in this window is the marriage
62<br />
of King Edward III. and Philippa of<br />
Hainault in the Cathedral<br />
at York, on the 24th of January, 1328. The subject<br />
occupies the principal portion of the four chief lights of the<br />
window. In the right centre stand the young king and his<br />
bride, to whom the archbishop, William de Melton, is giving<br />
the nuptial benediction. Behind the king is his mother, the<br />
Queen Dowager Isabel of France. About the archbishop<br />
appear some of his clergy and other attendants. In the<br />
compartment to the left is Nicholas de Langton, who in 1328<br />
was for the seventh time mayor of York. He bears a silver<br />
mace, and wears a red cloak lined with brown fur, over the<br />
parti- coloured robe which was characteristic of the time.<br />
Behind him are two of his brethren in office, his chaplain,<br />
and another of the clergy. In the right compartment the<br />
chief figure is that of Henry Earl of Lancaster and Leicester,<br />
the king's cousin and guardian, who was also president of<br />
the council. He bears the royal crown. Beyond him, with<br />
the sword of state, stands Eoger, Lord Mortimer of Wigmore,<br />
the absolute ruler for the time of England. The other<br />
persons are, the chief lady in waiting on the bride ; and the<br />
steward and chamberlain of the king's household, John de<br />
Eos and Gilbert Talbot. In the compartments below are<br />
the shields (commencing on the left) of De Melton, England,<br />
Hainault, and Sir John Darcy, the high sheriff of Yorkshire<br />
in 1328. In the corners are repeated another badge of King<br />
Edward III., the stock of a tree couped and ' eradicated,* an<br />
allusion to the royal manor of Woodstock." It is from the<br />
design of Mr. Doyle, and was made by Messrs. Hardman, of<br />
Birmingham.<br />
This completes the south side. The seventh window over<br />
the seat of justice, was erected by public subscription in<br />
memory of Mr. Alderman James Meek, three times Lord<br />
Mayor, in 1837, 1849, and 1851, and is also illustrative of the<br />
Plantagenet Period (1396),<br />
King Eichard 11. and William de Selby. The fact here<br />
prominently represented is the granting of the Charter<br />
by Eichard II. on the 18th May, 1396. His Majesty<br />
confirmed by this act all the former charters, rights, and<br />
privileges of the city, and formed it into a county by<br />
itself by the style of "the County of the City of<br />
York,'' gi^'ing the citizens the power to elect two sheriffs
63<br />
instead of three bailiffs, as was theretofore the case. The<br />
centre light contains a full length figure of Eichard II., his<br />
left-hand resting on the mace, and in his right, the sword which<br />
he is in the act of presenting. He is in armour, with a<br />
white surcoat and blue mantle lined with fawn, which were<br />
his colours proper. He has no beard, thus agreeing with<br />
the portraits that have been taken of him. On the king's<br />
right is William de Selby, first Lord Mayor, who has just received<br />
the sword. On his left is Sir William Frost, Kt.,<br />
Lord Mayor in 1396-7, when the Great Charter of the city<br />
was granted, which he holds in his hand. On the extreme<br />
right and left are John Moreton and Thomas Howden, the<br />
first two sheriffs of the city. All the figures are represented<br />
in the official costume of the period. In the tracery are the<br />
arms of Eichard 11. , with the crown, crest, cypher, cognisance,<br />
and supporters ; the arms of the city of York, backed<br />
by the sword and mace, and surmounted by the cap of<br />
maintenance ; and the city arms as before impaled with those<br />
of the late Alderman Meek as Lord Mayor. In the lower<br />
part of the window are the arms of Thomas Arundel, Archbishop<br />
of York, translated to Canterbury the same year<br />
John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, third son of Edward III.<br />
Edward, fourth son of the same monarch, and first Duke of<br />
York ;<br />
Eichard, Earl of Arundel ; and Thomas de Mowbray,<br />
Earl of Nottingham, Marshal of England, afterwards Duke of<br />
Norfolk, five witnesses to the Great :— Charter. At the foot is<br />
placed the following inscription " This window, illustrative<br />
of the historic period when King Eichard II. gave to<br />
the mayoralty of York its dignity, and to the city its Great<br />
Charter, constituting it a county and creating its two sheriffs,<br />
was raised as a testmiony of the great worth of James Meek,<br />
Esq., a magistrate and alderman, and thrice Lord Mayor, who<br />
died on the 13th day of December, 1862, aged 72 years, and<br />
who was ever zealous in the maintenance of its ancient<br />
rights and municipal privileges." The window was designed<br />
by the late Mr. Frederick Bell, of this city, architect, and<br />
executed by Messrs. Hardman and Co., of Birmingham.<br />
The next two windows (north side) are at present filled<br />
with plain glass, but following out the proposed scheme it is<br />
intended that the eighth window should illustrate the
Lancastrian Period.<br />
King Henry V. and Ms bride Katherine of France received at<br />
York by the Lord Mayor, John de Bedale, and the citizens (1421).<br />
The ninth window the<br />
Yorkist Period.<br />
King Edward IV. assumes the badge of the house of Lancaster<br />
in order to induce the Lord Mayor, John de Gisbume, and citizens<br />
to allow him free passage through the city (1471).<br />
The tenth window, given by Mrs. Emma Walker, wife of<br />
Mr. Alderman William Walker, in memory of her late father,<br />
Mr. Alderman Weatherley, who was City Sheriff in 1864 and<br />
Lord Mayor in 1868, illustrates the<br />
Tudor Period.<br />
King Henry VII. Knights William Todd, Lord Mayor of<br />
York, and Alderman Eichard Yorke, M.P. for the City, in<br />
recognition of the loyalty of the citizens during the rebellion<br />
of Lambert Simnel (31st July, 1487).<br />
In the centre is the King, holding the sword, and calling<br />
on the Lord Mayor and the Alderman to come forward that<br />
they may receive the honour intended. He is supposed to<br />
have been previously expressing his thanks to the Corporation,<br />
which has waited upon him. Behind him are two pages, in<br />
the Tudor colours, white and green.<br />
To the King's right are the Lord Mayor, Alderman Yorke,<br />
and other Aldermen ; also John Vavasour, Esq., the Recorder<br />
(nearest to the throne, and head only seen). These are supposed<br />
to be the foremost of a numerous deputation.<br />
To the King's left are John Rotherham, the Archbishop,<br />
who had formerly been (1474-1488) Lord Chancellor, and<br />
who was probably Henry's host in July, 1487 ;<br />
Henry Percy,<br />
Earl of Northumberland, Lieutenant General of the North,<br />
who, in that capacity, would carry the sword of state before<br />
the King, which he is supposed to have just placed in the<br />
Sovereign's hand, but still holds in his own grasp the scabbard<br />
thereof ;<br />
and, behind him. Sir William Stanley, K.G., Chamberlain<br />
of the Household, the same who placed the crown on<br />
Henry's head after the battle of Bosworth.<br />
In the upper compartments are the shields of the City of<br />
York and of Alderman Weatherley, each encircled by the<br />
Lord Mayor's chain.
65<br />
In the lower compartments are the shields of— 1, Yorke ;<br />
:2, Henry VII.; and, 3, Percy.<br />
The eleventh window the<br />
Stuart Period.<br />
King James I., on Ms accession to the crown of England, welcomed<br />
at York by the Lord Mayor j Kobert Walter, and his brethren<br />
(April 16, 1603).<br />
The twelfth window was given by W. B. Eichardson, Esq.,<br />
in memory of his father, the late Mr. Alderman William<br />
Eichardson, Lord Mayor in 1846, and marks the<br />
Stuart Period.<br />
The subject illustrated in this window is the declaration<br />
made by King Charles the First to the peers and others assembled<br />
at York, on June 13th, 1642.<br />
The king said that " he would not require or exact any<br />
obedience from them but what should be warranted by the<br />
known law of the land ;" and finally, that " he would defend<br />
the lawful liberties of the subjects of England and just<br />
privileges of all the three estates of Parliament ; and would<br />
require no further obedience from them than as accordingly<br />
he should perform the same."<br />
This was the programme of Falkland, Hyde, and the constitutional<br />
royalists ; and no celebration of obsoleted princi •<br />
pies is here in question.<br />
The persons represented—commencing from the left-—<br />
are :<br />
1.—Edward Hyde, Esq., M.P., who was a chief adviser of<br />
the king at this time, though he had as yet declined<br />
office. He is best known by the title, which he obtained<br />
after the Eestoration, of Earl of Clarendon.<br />
2.—Edward, Lord Lyttleton, Lord Keeper of the Great Seal.<br />
3.—Lucius Carey, Viscount Falkland, Secretary of State.<br />
In the centre compartment is the King in his robes,<br />
holding in his hand the declaration.<br />
Behind him is the Prince of Wales, afterwards Charles IL<br />
In the right compartment, are :<br />
-1.—Eobert Bertie, Earl of Lindsay, K.G., Lord Great<br />
Chamberlain of England, soon afterwards made Commander-in-chief<br />
of the royal army. This veteran soldier<br />
represents the old-fashioned military element of the<br />
F
66<br />
king's party, and also tlie great feudal officials who<br />
naturally supported the monarchy. He holds the white<br />
rod of his office.<br />
2.—James Stuart, Duke of Richmond, K.G., Lord Steward<br />
of the Household, holding the sword of State. He<br />
once said that he did not want office or favour to make<br />
him loyal ; and he was one of the four noblemen who<br />
carried the King's body to the grave at Windsor. He<br />
is the type of the chivalrous, disinterested royalist of<br />
that time.<br />
3.—William Seymour, Marquis of Hertford, Knight of the<br />
Bath, Governor to the Prince of Wales, a religious,<br />
peaceful, scholarly man, another type of the best kind<br />
of royalist. He also helped to bear the King's body to<br />
the grave.<br />
4.—The face partially seen is that of Edward Sackville,<br />
Earl of Dorset, K.G., Chamberlain to the Queen. He<br />
represents the better kind of courtier and cavalier.<br />
In the upper compartments are the arms of York, and of<br />
Mr. Richardson, both surmounted with the Mayor's chain.<br />
In the lower spaces are the arms of Lord Clarendon, on<br />
the left, the King (centre), and Lord Falkland on the right.<br />
It is from a design by J. E. Doyle, Esq., and was manufactured<br />
by J. B. Capronnier, of<br />
Brussels.<br />
The thirteenth window is plain, but the scheme intends<br />
that this should illustrate the time of<br />
The Commonwealth.<br />
Thus—Oliver Cromwell, on his way to command the army in<br />
Scotland, entertained at York hy the Lord Mayor, William Taylor<br />
(July 5th, 1650).<br />
This completes the north side.<br />
The fourteenth window is over the entrance doorway, and<br />
was presented in 1866 by George Leeman, Esq., M.P. for the<br />
city, and thrice Lord Mayor in 1854, 1861, and 1871; it<br />
illustrates the House of Hanover, or<br />
Victorian Period.<br />
This window is one of five lights, and is commemorative of<br />
the meeting of mayors in the city in 1850, preliminary to<br />
the great Exhibition in London the following year. In the<br />
centre is the figure of Mr. Alderman Seymour, who was Lord<br />
Mayor of York at that time. On the right is a representation
67<br />
of the late Prince Consort standing in the act of addressing<br />
the assembled mayors at the great banquet at the Guildhall.<br />
The other figures in the window are those of Archbishop<br />
Musgrave, the Lord Mayor of London, Earl Eussell, the Earl<br />
of Carlisle, Earl Granville, the Lord Provost of Edinburgh,<br />
the Lord Mayor of Dublin, and the Mayors of Manchester and<br />
Cork, with the insignia of office, swords and maces. Below<br />
these figures are the arms of the Prince Consort, the cityarms,<br />
impaled with those of Mr. Seymour, the Lord Mayor,<br />
the arms of London, and those of eight of the most important<br />
places in England. In the tracery are the arms of the<br />
principal nations of the world which took part in the great<br />
Exhibition of 1851. It was furnished by Messrs. Hardman<br />
and Co., of Birmingham, in accordance with the design of J.<br />
E. Doyle, Esq., London.<br />
We may remark that the figures in the whole of these<br />
windows are accurate portraits, so far as could possibly be<br />
obtained, and are also correct delineations of the style of<br />
dress of the different eras. The handling of some of the<br />
subjects is most artistic, particularly the third window, and<br />
reflects alike the highest credit upon the ability of the<br />
designer and the skill of the manufacturer.<br />
The large bell, hung on the north side, was taken at the<br />
storming of Rangoon, in 1852, by the 51st Light Infantry,<br />
and by that regiment presented to the city. It is composed<br />
of three-parts silver, weighs six cwt., and is valued at about<br />
£2,800.<br />
The field- piece belongs to the Volunteer Artillery, who<br />
meet here for drill in the winter season.<br />
The hall is used for meetings of the citizens, the City<br />
Assizes, Quarter Sessions, County Court, and other public<br />
business.<br />
At the back of the hall, and overlooking the river, is the<br />
Magistrates' -room, wherein is arranged on the walls about<br />
three hundred flint-lock muskets. It was in this room that<br />
the Great Council for the North held its sittings, and it was<br />
here also that the £200,000 was paid to the Scots for their<br />
assistance against Charles I. Beyond this, to the left, is the<br />
City Surveyor's Office, wherein is a valuable collection of<br />
Blue-books and patent specifications. Above is the Council<br />
Chamber of the City.
68<br />
In the Muniment-room are kept the City Archives and<br />
Charters, the most ancient dating from 1155, in which<br />
reference is made to a former Charter granted by Henry I.,<br />
but which has not been found. The Great Charter, conferring<br />
the rights and liberties of the citizens, given at<br />
Westminster, is dated the 18th day of May, 1396, and is<br />
still in existence.<br />
ARMS AND GOVERNMENT.<br />
The Arms of the city are Argent—a cross of St. George,<br />
gules, five lioncels of England passant guardant. The great seal<br />
of the city has this coat of arms between two ostrich feathers<br />
scrolled. It is said that the five lions were added by William<br />
the Conqueror in memory of the five commanders who<br />
defended the city so resolutely against him.<br />
The Government of the city is vested in the Corporation,<br />
which consists of the Lord Mayor, twelve Aldermen,<br />
and thirty-six Councillors. There is also a Recorder,<br />
SheriflP, Town Clerk, and other officers. The Councillors<br />
are elected by the citizens of the six different wards into<br />
which the city is divided, and have the power of selecting<br />
Aldermen, from amongst whom the Lord Mayor is chosen.<br />
Within his own jurisdiction he takes precedence of all<br />
persons, except the Sovereign and heir presumptive, and<br />
on all State occasions wears a scarlet robe and massive<br />
gold chain. The Recorder has precedence next after the<br />
Lord Mayor; his appointment is vested in the Crown.<br />
York returns two members to Parliament.<br />
The Police Station is in the Fish Market, High Jubbergate,<br />
approached from Church Street and Parliament Street.<br />
The fire engines and escape are under the control and<br />
management of the Chief Constable.<br />
THE CASTLE.<br />
In Tower Street is the entrance to York Castle, a term<br />
at present comprising the Assize Courts, Debtors' and<br />
Convicts' Prison, Governor's house, and Clifford's Tower.<br />
With the exception of the last-mentioned, the different<br />
parts are, comparatively speaking, of modern erection.<br />
It is probable that the Romans had a magazine here for<br />
the storage of grain. In 937 the fortress was razed
69<br />
to tlie ground by Athelstane, lest it should be any more a<br />
nursery of rebellion.<br />
The part now known as Clifford's Tower (called<br />
after its first governor) was probably the keep of the<br />
Castle, and was built and garrisoned by William the<br />
Conqueror in order to overawe his rebellious subjects in the<br />
North. It remained the property of the Crown, was the<br />
official residence of the high sheriff of the county, and during<br />
Norman and early Plantagenet times sustained many<br />
assaults ;<br />
it was also the scene of the massacre of the Jews<br />
in the time of Richard I. "When at the summit of its<br />
greatness it was surrounded by the river Foss, and could<br />
only be entered by two drawbridges. In the time of<br />
Eichard III., being much out of order, it was repaired and<br />
in part rebuilt ; but at the time of Henry VIII. was again<br />
in a most ruinous condition, as is described by Leland. At<br />
the beginning of the civil war (1642) it was repaired and<br />
fortified by the Earl of Cumberland, whom Charles I. had<br />
appointed lieutenant- general of the royal forces in the North.<br />
He also placed above the gate the royal arms, and underneath<br />
those of the Clifford family, sculptured in stone, with<br />
the motto Desormais," all of which may still be seen. On<br />
the top of the Tower a platform was constructed, upon<br />
which were placed two culverins and a saker. It suffered<br />
severely during the siege, and upon the surrender of the<br />
royalists in 1644 the Castle was dismantled of its garrison<br />
excepting Clifford's Tower, in which there still remained 60<br />
Foot and several pieces of ordnance. In 1683 Sir John<br />
Eeresby was made Governor by Charles II., and in the following<br />
year, April 23rd, St. George's Day, a fire occurred,<br />
in which the powder magazine was blown up and the interior<br />
of the Tower burnt to ashes, leaving the walls only<br />
standing, and in this condition it has remained ever since.<br />
In 1825 it was purchased by the county magistrates, who<br />
were at that time effecting improvements in the Castle ;<br />
it is<br />
now preserved with great care, the ground upon which it<br />
stands being strengthened and supported by a strong wall<br />
built round it. There is little in the interior suggestive of<br />
the stormy times through which it has passed, the space<br />
being taken up with neatly-arranged beds of flowers. In<br />
the centre rises the enormous flagstaff, and in one corner is
70<br />
the well, now dry, which formerly supplied the garrison<br />
with water, and into which the bodies of the massacred<br />
Jews were cast. A walnut tree, said to have been planted<br />
by George Fox, the founder of the Quakers, whilst incarcerated<br />
in the Castle, once grew here, but a few years ago was<br />
struck by lightning and thrown down. A room with an<br />
arcade of pointed arches, supposed to have been the chapel,<br />
still exists. There are two flights of stairs leading to the<br />
summit of the Tower, from which an extensive view may be<br />
obtained. The cavities in the wall where the beams rested<br />
which supported the first storey are still distinctly visible.<br />
In 1 708 the other towers of the Castle, which had been used<br />
as a county prison, were taken down, and the pile of buildings<br />
at the further end of the yard erected, the stone required<br />
for the purpose being taken from the ruins of St.<br />
Mary's Abbey. This is now called the Dkbtors' Prison.<br />
On our right are the County Assize Courts, erected<br />
in 1673, but rebuilt in 1777. The entrance is through<br />
a portico with Ionic columns 30 feet in height, surmounted<br />
by the royal arms, a statue of Justice, and other<br />
emblematic figures. The Hall is divided into Nisi Prius and<br />
Crown Courts, each thirty feet in diameter, with other<br />
rooms for juries, counsel, and attendants. The assizes for<br />
the North and East Ridings are held here in spring and<br />
summer, and the Winter Gaol Delivery occasionally in December.<br />
On the opposite side of the Castle yard is a similar<br />
building set apart for female debtors and female prisoners on<br />
criminal charges, in the centre of which is the chapel. Here<br />
also, in the north-east corner, is the condemned cell, scaffold,<br />
and graveyard for the burial of those who are executed.<br />
Close to, and commanding a full view of all the different<br />
parts of the prison, is the Governor's house, a neat stone<br />
erection built in 1833. Behind this, and radiating in a<br />
semi-circle, are the convict wards, begun in 1826, which<br />
consist of four double buildings and eight yards attached,<br />
with arrangements for the airing and secuiity of the prisoners.<br />
In a small room are still preserved many morbid<br />
curiosities, including casts of the heads of criminals executed<br />
during the past 150 years, branding irons, thumb screws,<br />
and Dick Turpin's leg irons and waist belt. The central<br />
space or area enclosed by these buildings is the castle yard
71<br />
in it the debtors are allowed to take exercise, and it is also<br />
used as the place of nomination for the members of the<br />
North Eiding, at which times many exciting scenes have been<br />
witnessed. It is said to be capable of holding 40,000 persons.<br />
Anciently the river Foss flowed quite round the<br />
Castle walls, as well as round the keep ;<br />
but in 1805, drawbridge,<br />
gate towers, and rulley post were removed, and the<br />
moat on the south side filled up. In subsequent years the<br />
entire Castle was repaired, prison arrangements remodelled,<br />
and the whole area surrounded by the lofty stone wall which<br />
now exists. These improvements occupied twelve years, and<br />
cost the county £203,530. In the Entrance Lodge are an<br />
indictment room and record room, and every Saturday the<br />
magistrates meet here to examine those accused of smaU<br />
offences from the Ainsty. It is now a Government prison,<br />
and permission to see through is only granted upon application<br />
to the Prison Commissioners, the Home Office, who<br />
must be satisfied that the applicant has some useful object in<br />
view, or else that he is connected with prisons or interested<br />
in prison discipline.<br />
Clifford's Tovter can only be seen over by the written<br />
introduction of a member of the Visiting Committee of<br />
Magistrates of York Castle (for the time being), or the<br />
former Chairman of the Visiting Justices, or of the Lord<br />
Mayor of York. It is advisable to give 24 hours' notice,<br />
when the Governor will forward an order fixing the hour<br />
at which visitors will least interfere with prison duties.<br />
Strangers having no time to wait an answer, are recommended<br />
to apply at the gates of the Castle, between noon<br />
and 1 p.m., when the Governor will meet their wishes, if<br />
he can do so without breach of duty to public interests.
72<br />
CHUEGHES.<br />
All Saints, North-street, is of great antiquity, and was<br />
erected at various periods and in different styles. Its plan is a<br />
narrow nave, with chancel, north and south aisles to both, the<br />
roofs of which are nearly of equal height; south porch,<br />
sacristy, and tower surmounted by a lofty spire. The arches<br />
on the north side of the chancel, with the beautiful arcade<br />
and outer piers of the east wall are Early English (1220).<br />
The nave, arches, and south doorway are of the time of<br />
Henry III. (1260). The east window and aisles belong to<br />
the Decorated i^Qviodi (1300). The chancel window (recently<br />
restored) about 1360. The tower and elegant spire, 120 feet<br />
high, and perhaps the north and south walls were erected<br />
about 1420. The stained glass (14th and 15th centuries) is<br />
considered to be of matchless beauty and interest, particularly<br />
the figures of St. Ann and St. Christopher in the east window,<br />
and other figures in the windows of the south aisle are said<br />
to be unrivalled for their exquisite grace and devotion, as<br />
well as for purity and harmony of colouring. The glass in<br />
the east window of the north aisle dates from about 1300.<br />
In the churchyard are several stone coffins. As a whole,<br />
this is one of the oldest and most interesting churches in the<br />
city. The pulpit is about 250 years old, and has carved upon<br />
it the text— ''How shall they preach except they be sent."<br />
It was completely restored in 1870. There are two large<br />
bells and one sanctus bell.<br />
All Saints, Pavement, corner of High Ousegate, is built<br />
on a very ancient foundation; the present erection dates<br />
from the fifteenth century, and was restored in 1835.<br />
Perpendicular^—consists of nave, with clerestory lights, aisles,<br />
vestry, and tower, surmounted by an octagonal lantern of<br />
great beauty. History tells us that a lighted lamp was<br />
formerly hung in this lantern every night, to guide the<br />
traveller on his way through the immense forest of Galtres<br />
towards the city. The pulpit is of oak, remarkable for<br />
its quaintness and rich carving, and seems to have been<br />
erected in 1634. The tower contains three large bells, and<br />
one small prayer bell.
73<br />
Christ Church, CoUiergate and Kings-square, formerly<br />
called Holy Trinity, King's court, was entirely rebuilt in<br />
1862. Decorated with portions of Perpendicular^—consists of<br />
nave, with aisles, vestry, and tower, in which is a lighted<br />
clock and six bells. The church is very small, and contains<br />
observation.<br />
nothing particularly worthy of<br />
Holy Trinity, Goodramgate, appears to be of great<br />
antiquity. Perpendicular, with Debased windows, three of<br />
which have some stained glass,—consists of nave with aisles,<br />
porch, vestry, and antiquated pews, which carry the mind<br />
back at least a century. It has a low, picturesque-looking<br />
tower, containing three old bells. There is a chapel, opening<br />
from the south aisle, in which is a piscina, and also, so far<br />
as we are aware, the only example in York of<br />
a hagioscope<br />
or oblique opening in the walls, to enable persons outside to<br />
see the Elevation of the Host.<br />
Holy Trinity, Micklegate, not far from the bar, formerly<br />
attached to Trinity Priory, now destroyed. Mixed^— Early<br />
Englishj Decorated^ and Perpendicular^—it consists of nave,<br />
south aisle, western gallery, and tower, in which are two<br />
bells. From Priory- street a south-west view of the tower,<br />
with its Norman belfry windows, strong buttress, and pointed<br />
arches, can be obtained. It is exceedingly picturesque, and<br />
well worthy of notice. It is across the east window of this<br />
church that a ghost is wont to flit, the story of which is told<br />
by the Eev. Baring Gould, in his " Yorkshire Oddities."<br />
St. Clement, in Clementhorpe, is a modern church in the<br />
new district of St. Mary, Bishophill. It is a brick building<br />
of Early Gothic design, erected in 1874, consisting of nave<br />
and apsidal chancel, having lofty clerestory lights and open<br />
timber roof. The capitals of the pillars are finely sculptured.<br />
The east window is a good specimen of modern stained glass^<br />
by Capronnier, of Brussels. There is a small turret with<br />
one bell. The church will accommodate six hundred persons.<br />
Across the nave and chancel, from the apices of the arches,,<br />
wires of galvanized copper are stretched in order to prevent<br />
the unpleasant effects produced by the echoing sound when<br />
the church is partially filled, an experiment which has here<br />
proved quite successful. This is the first attempt in York to<br />
produce a well-proportioned church capable of holding a
74<br />
large congregation at a very moderate cost, viz., £3,500, or<br />
above £5 15s. per sitting.<br />
St. Crux, Pavement, corner of the Shambles : Perpendicular^<br />
with Decorated pillars ; has nave with lofty clerestory<br />
windows and aisles. The tower of brick, in the Italian style,<br />
was surmounted by a cupola, which, in the year 1872, was<br />
taken down on account of its dangerous condition. The<br />
helmet, sword, and gauntlet of the Earl of Northumberland<br />
hang in the north-east corner of the church. He was<br />
beheaded in 1572 on the Pavement, close to the building,<br />
for sedition. At the east end of the south aisle is a quaint<br />
monument to the memory of Eobert Watter, Knt., twice<br />
Lord Mayor of this city, dated 1610. Attached to an old<br />
wooden lectern by an iron chain is a black letter controversial<br />
book, dated 1566, supposed by many to be an old Bible.<br />
There is one large bell, and a small prayer bell. This<br />
church is now closed, as it is considered to be in an unsafe<br />
condition and unfit for public worship.<br />
St. Cuthbert, Peaseholme-green, is said to be a very<br />
ancient church, and to have been in existence at the time of<br />
the Conquest. There is little, however, in its present appearance<br />
to bear out that supposition. Late Perpendicular^ with<br />
Debased; has nave, with timber roof of one span, western<br />
gallery, and tower, containing two bells. In the windows<br />
are a few specimens of early stained glass.<br />
St. Dennis, Walmgate, consists of chancel only, with side<br />
aisles ; the nave, together with the west end of the church<br />
and spire, having been taken down in 1798. Mixture of<br />
Decorated with Perpendicular^ and a Norman doorway on the<br />
south side. The old painted glass is particularly fine, dating<br />
from the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. In the east<br />
window may be seen the patron saint of the church holding<br />
his head in his hands. In the easternmost window of the<br />
south aisle is an organ, blown by a monk with hand bellows.<br />
Henry Percy, Earl of Northumberland, who fell at Towton<br />
field, is interred here. There is a tradition that this church<br />
was originally a Jewish synagogue, or tabernacle. The<br />
tower was taken down and rebuilt, and the fabric repaired<br />
in 1847. More recently still (18T7), an illuminated clock<br />
has been inserted. There are three large bells, one of which<br />
'<br />
is cracked.
St. Helen, in St. Helen's-square, opposite the Mansion<br />
House, built upon the site of a Roman temple, dedicated to<br />
Diana. Decorated. The church consists of nave, aisles,<br />
chancel, and vestry. It has but few examples of ancient<br />
glass. There is a Norman font, with curiously sculptured<br />
sides, dating from the eleventh century. Peculiarly placed<br />
on an arch over the western entrance, rising above an embattled<br />
parapet, is a small octagonal lantern, of chaste and<br />
elegant design. There are two bells.<br />
St. John, Micklegate, corner of North Street, Decorated^<br />
the windows being Perpendicular^ with a few good specimens<br />
of old stained glass. It has nave with aisles and tower,<br />
having small turret built of timber, filled in with brick<br />
and plaster, in which are hung six bells (three of these were<br />
brought from the church of St. Nicholas when destroyed at<br />
the time of the Reformation) and one sanctus bell. This<br />
church formerly had a steeple, which was blown down in the<br />
16th century, and has not been rebuilt.<br />
St. Lawrence, without Walmgate Bar, has nave and<br />
chancel with tower in dilapidated condition ;<br />
Mixed^ chiefly<br />
Norman^ with some windows of the Decorated period. The<br />
north porch is a splendid specimen of a Norman doorway,<br />
with deeply recessed mouldings. On the opposite side is a<br />
plainer example of the same style. During the siege of York,<br />
in 1644, this church was nearly destroyed, but was rebuilt<br />
from the old materials in l(j6y. Just within the churchyard<br />
are the remains of the stocks, a relic of the past, and the only<br />
example in York. One bell. This church had, perhaps, the<br />
most picturesque appearance of any in the city. It is now<br />
taken down, and will shortly be replaced by one more suited<br />
to the increasing population of the parish.<br />
St. Margaret, Walmgate, on the north side behind some<br />
houses nearly opposite Margaret Street, is justly celebrated<br />
for its Norman porch, which, according to Drake, was brought<br />
from the hospital of St. Nicholas, without Walmgate Bar, at<br />
the dissolution of the religious houses. This remarkable porch<br />
consists of four recessed circular arches, the outer one showing<br />
the signs of the zodiac, with an additional one agreeing with<br />
the thirteen months of the Anglo-Saxon calendar. Between<br />
the signs are figures emblematic of the months. The inner<br />
arches are also enriched with grotesque and elaborate carvings.
76<br />
The pillars supporting the arch are covered with figures. The<br />
doorway has also a carved arch. The church consists of nave,<br />
north aisle, with open timber roof, porch, vestry, and brick<br />
tower, rebuilt in 1684, in which are three large bells, and<br />
on« sanctus bell. The style is Debased,<br />
St. Martin, Coney-street. Late Perpendicular ; consists<br />
of nave, with eleven clerestory windows, side aisles, porch,<br />
and tower, in which is a peal of eight bells. The windows<br />
contain some rare specimens of stained glass of the fifteenth<br />
century ; the west window illustrating the life of the saint to<br />
whom the church is dedicated. The ancient glass of the east<br />
window was taken out about a century ago and inserted in<br />
the Minster, the vacancy being filled with plain, which in<br />
1872 was replaced by the present beautiful stained glass, the<br />
gift of the Oldfields, a much-respected York family. The<br />
design illustrates the life of the Saviour in nine compartments.<br />
The church was thoroughly restored in 1872, and<br />
ornamented with an elaborately carved reredos, showing the<br />
Lord's Supper. At the east end, projecting over the pathway<br />
in Coney Street, is a clock, with large illuminated dials, fixed<br />
on a splendid iron spandril, erected in 1668. On it is the<br />
figure of a man taking a solar observation with a quadrant.<br />
The gurgoyles are particularly quaint. Next to the Minster,<br />
this possesses the best peal of bells in the city.<br />
St. Martin-cum-Gregory, Micklegate, opposite the end<br />
of Eailway- street. Early English, with Perpendicular^ having<br />
six clerestory windows ;<br />
contains nave, side aisles, large<br />
chancel, with aisles, vestry, porch, and tower, in which are<br />
three large bells and one small prayer bell, also a clock with<br />
illuminated dial. We find here some old stained glass in an<br />
excellent state of preservation. The reredos and communion<br />
rails are Renaissance in design. The pulpit is a quaint<br />
specimen of woodwork, on which is carved the text, Preach<br />
the Word in season and out of season," as well as an appropriate<br />
one on the sounding board. On the west side of the<br />
tower, near the ground, is a Eoman funeral sculptured tablet.<br />
The foundation is also supposed to be Roman work.<br />
nave, having clerestory,<br />
St. Mart, Castlegate, consists of<br />
with north and south aisles, chancel, with north aisle or chapel,<br />
and tower, surmounted by a lofty spire of 154 feet, the<br />
highest in the city. The prevailing style is Perpendicular
77<br />
but internally portions of Norman and Early English work<br />
xemain. It is of very early foundation, and is mentioned<br />
thus in Doomsday Book— " Wil de Perci hath the church<br />
of St. Mary." Drake, the historian, says that it is an<br />
ancient rectory of Medieties, belonging to the Earls of<br />
JsTorthumberland and the priory of Kirkham, till both were<br />
consolidated into one rectory about 1400. Underneath<br />
the west window in the north aisle of the nave is a squareheaded<br />
window composed of five lights ; also a blocked-up<br />
doorway, probably leading to the cell of an Anchorite.<br />
In the chancel is a sedilia of three recesses and piscina,<br />
^Iso a stone reredos. In 1870, by the munificence of Dean<br />
Duncombe, this church was thoroughly renovated, repewed,<br />
and newly decorated; the parishioners and others, as an<br />
abiding .testimony of their gratitude, put in the beautiful<br />
east window, representing the nativity of our Blessed Lord.<br />
The grounds surrounding the church, which is daily open<br />
from sunrise to sunset, are tastefully laid out, and furnished<br />
with seats. In the tower are three large bells and one mass<br />
bell. The dedication stone, or a part of it, was discovered<br />
during the restoration, and is now carefully preserved in a<br />
glass case placed against a pillar on the north side of the<br />
chancel aisle. It is now, perhaps, the finest and most<br />
complete parish church in the city. The foundations of the<br />
sacristy still remain on the south side of the chancel, in<br />
which is a doorway formerly leading thereto, but which is<br />
now blocked up.<br />
St. Mary, Bishophill Junior, is near the junction of<br />
Trinity, St. Martin's, and Fetter Lanes. Norman^ with<br />
portions of Decorated. Consists of nave with aisles, chancel<br />
with north aisle, porch, and low tower. The latter is of very<br />
great antiquity, the lower part probably Eoman masonry,<br />
shewing in the upper portions herring-bone work, with undoubtedly<br />
Saxon windows. It is well known to archaeologists<br />
and students of architecture. There are two ancient<br />
bells.<br />
St. Mary, Bishophill Senior, not far from the church<br />
above mentioned, is a very ancient structure. Early English<br />
and Decorated. It has nave, north aisle, porch, and<br />
low tower built partly of brick in 1639, containing a peal of<br />
six bells.
78<br />
St. Maurice, just without Monk Bar, at the foot of Lord<br />
Mayor's Walk, is built on the site of a very old church, has<br />
accommodation for over 600 persons, and was opened in 1878.<br />
It consists of nave, aisles, chancel, south transept, and lofty<br />
tower, containing two bells. Early English in style, with<br />
portions of Decorated. There is a large quantity of carving<br />
on the capitals of the columns, bosses, pulpit, &c., and also<br />
an elaborate reredos. An alms dish and altar cloth of the<br />
time of Queen Mary may be seen in the vestry.<br />
St. Michael-le-Belfry, High Petergate, close to the<br />
south side of the Minster, derives its name from its contiguity<br />
to the belfry of the Cathedral. Florid^ or Late Perpendicular^<br />
of which it is a good example, erected 1545 : the west<br />
front is well worth noticing. The church consists of nave,<br />
with clerestory lights, aisles, vestry, and small octagonal<br />
turret, containing one bell. The baptismal register of the<br />
notorious ^'Guye Fauxe, 16 April, 1570" (as it is written in<br />
Old English characters), is preserved here. On the wall at<br />
the east end is a tablet to the memory of Thomas Gent, the<br />
eccentric historian and printer, who is buried in this church.<br />
The windows contain some rare specimens of .stained glass,<br />
mostly of the time of Henry VIII. The reredos and communion<br />
rails are very massive. Renaissance in design. A<br />
sermon is preached annually in this church on Good Friday,<br />
for the benefit of the Blue Coat Boys' and Grey Coat Girls^<br />
Charity Schools.<br />
St. Michael, corner of Spurriergate and Low Ousegate.<br />
Early Perpendicular ; consists of nave, aisles, and tower, with<br />
six bells. Some of the windows contain good specimens of<br />
old stained glass. The reredos and communion rails are of<br />
massive Renaissance design. This is one of the very few<br />
churches in the kingdom in which the curfew bell is still<br />
tolled (8 p.m.) daily; a bell is also rung at six o'clock every<br />
morning in the week, except Sunday, immediately after<br />
which another bell chimes the number of the day of the<br />
month.<br />
St. Olave, in Marygate, close to one of the entrances of<br />
the Museum grounds. Florid, or Late Perpendicular ; has<br />
nave, aisles, and tower, in which are six bells. This church<br />
during the siege of York in 1644, the<br />
was nearly destroyed<br />
Parliamentarians having placed a battery of guns on the roof.
79<br />
It was afterwards rebuilt with stone taken from the ruins of<br />
St. Mary's Abbey. Siward, Earl of Northumberland, tha<br />
founder of the church, was iDuried here in 1055. The tomb<br />
of Etty, the artist, may be seen in the churchyard. The<br />
windows contain some fragments of old stained glass,<br />
St. Paul, in Holgate Koad, close to the railway bridge,<br />
was erected in 1851, has nave with side aisles, and is in the<br />
Early English style ; has one bell.<br />
St. Sampson, Church Street, is the only church in England<br />
dedicated to this saint. Mostly Perpendicular;—consists<br />
of nave with aisles, modern chancel, vestry, and low towers<br />
containing one large and one small bell. During the siege of<br />
the city in 1644 the tower was so shattered by cannon shots<br />
of the Parliamentarian army that it was soon after reduced<br />
to its present height, and has not since been restored.<br />
St. Saviour, in St. Saviourgate, corner of Hungate, consists<br />
of nave, with aisles, vestry, and low tower; contains<br />
one large and one sanctus bell. Mostly Perpendicular^ with<br />
Debased windows, that in the east containing old stained<br />
glass. In this church are buried Sir John and Lady Hewley,<br />
founders of the alms-houses adjoining the churchyard, and<br />
well known for other acts of liberality.<br />
St. Thomas, Lowther-street, The Groves. Early English;<br />
was built in 1854; contains nave, transepts, and chancel,<br />
with open timber roof and small turret, having two bells.<br />
St. Andrews, between St. Andrewgate and Spen-lane.<br />
During the past century and a half this barn-like building<br />
has been entirely disused as a place of worship, and, according<br />
to Drake, was used partly as a stable and dwelling-house<br />
in his time. In more recent years it has been used as schoolroom,<br />
meeting-room, and for various other local purposes.<br />
Bedern Chapel. (See page 43).
80<br />
CHAPELS-<br />
BAPTIST CHAPEL, in Priory Street, is a Gothic buHding,<br />
with tower ; was erected in 1868 at a cost of about £6,000,<br />
and will seat 700.<br />
CATHOLIC APOSTOLIC CHURCH Mission Eoom is in<br />
Aldwark, immediately at the back of Salem Chapel.<br />
INDEPENDENT.—Lendal Chapel, in Lendal, a plain<br />
brick building, erected in 1816; will seat 1,300. It was here<br />
the Eev. James Parsons commenced his pastorate in York.<br />
Salem Chapel, at the end of St. Saviourgate, a large<br />
square building having a bold front facing the same street.<br />
It has a fine elevated portico, with Ionic pillars of stone and<br />
pediment; was erected in 1839 for the Eev. James Parsons,<br />
who officiated here for over thirty years. It will hold about<br />
1,600 persons.<br />
PEIMITIYE METHODIST. — Ebenezer Chapel, in<br />
Little Stonegate, was erected in 1851 ; will seat about 700.<br />
Nunnery Lane Mission House, erected in 1864; will<br />
seat near 400.<br />
Heslington Eoad Chapel, in Apollo Street, erected in<br />
1868; will seat nearly 300.<br />
Layerthorpe Chapel, in Duke of York Street; will<br />
seat 250.<br />
Victoria Bar Chapel, Bishophill. Eenaissance in style<br />
of red and wliite brick, was erected in 1879 at a cost of<br />
£2,700 ;<br />
will seat 900 persons.<br />
FEIENDS' OE QUAKEES' MEETING HOUSE, in<br />
Friargate, Castlegate ; consists of two buildings ; the first<br />
was erected in 1673 and the latter in 1816, and will seat<br />
1000 persons.<br />
EOMAN CATHOLIC—St. Wilfrid, pro-Cathedral<br />
Church in Duncombe Street, built in 1864. Early English;<br />
—consists of nave, aisles, chancel with apse, side chapels, and<br />
ornamental tower. The principal entrance is through a very<br />
ornate doorway, above which is a figure of the patron saint. In<br />
the chancel is some elaborate carving, including nine heads of<br />
the patriarchs, life size. On the front of the altar is a representation<br />
of The Entombment of Our Saviour. Some of the<br />
windows contain good specimens of modern stained glass.
81<br />
In the sanctuary are three large pictures, representing The<br />
Crucifixion, Eesurrection, and Ascension, from the Munich<br />
School of Painting.<br />
St. George's Chapel, in George Street, Walmgate,<br />
Decorated, consists of nave, aisles, chancel and side chapels,<br />
was erected in 1850. In the rear are large schools attached<br />
to the chapel.<br />
St. Mary's Convent, of the Institute of the Blessed<br />
Virgin Mary, was established in the reign of Charles<br />
II., 1680, for the education of young ladies, and has<br />
carried on the work of upper education from that time until<br />
the present day. The house is situated outside Micklegate<br />
Bar, in one of the most salubrious and genteel suburbs of the<br />
city. From the spacious grounds attached there is easy access<br />
to the country. The old convent has gradually given place<br />
to a more modern and very extensive building, which has<br />
been much improved of late by valuable additions in the<br />
school department. There is also a day school in connection<br />
with this establishment.<br />
Convent of the Sisters of Charity of St. Paul's<br />
at No 2, St. John Street, Lord Mayor's Walk, consists of<br />
nuns who are trained and skilled in the art of teaching,<br />
and who devote their lives to that service in the public<br />
schools connected with their religion.<br />
Poor Clare Abbey (commonly miscalled the Poor Clares<br />
Convent) stands on the right hand side of Lawrence Street,<br />
about a quarter of a mile from Walmgate Bar. It is an<br />
extensive and massive building, erected 1872-78, in the<br />
severe Gothic style of architecture. The plan is a quadrangle,<br />
one side being formed by the chapel and choir ; the<br />
front chiefly by parlours, the other two sides by chapter and<br />
workrooms, novitiate, refectory, infirmary, &c. Connected<br />
with the main building by a corridor is the residence of the<br />
Lay Sisters. It is further intended to build a chaplain's<br />
house close to the present entrance gates. The community<br />
of Poor Clare Abbey belongs to one of the strictest contemplative<br />
orders, that of the Poor Clares Colettines. On their<br />
first arrival in York, 1865, they took up their residence in<br />
Plantation House, Hull Eoad, from which they removed to<br />
their present house in 1872. There are fifteen choir<br />
sisters, including the Lady Abbess, and five lay sisters. The<br />
Q
'<br />
Pilgrim<br />
82<br />
choir sisters are entirely shut out from the outer world by<br />
what is termed the Inclosure. They are never allowed to go<br />
out, nor is anybody allowed to go amongst them ; all communications<br />
are held through an iron grating in the parlour.<br />
The services in the chapel are public ; Mass every morning<br />
at 7 ;<br />
Benediction on Sunday and Wednesday afternoons at<br />
4.30. Visitors are admitted to the parlour from 9 to 12,<br />
and from 1 to 3, Sundays and holidays excepted.<br />
SWEDENBOEGIAN, OR MEMBERS OF THE CHURCH<br />
OF NEW JERUSALEM.—Meeting Room in a yard 13,<br />
St.<br />
Saviourgate, next the Institute.<br />
UNITARIAN CHAPEL, in St. Saviourgate, is an<br />
exceedingly plain and unpretending building, and is<br />
cruciform in plan. It was erected in 1692, and wiU seat<br />
2 5 persons. The Rev. Charles Wellbeloved, a celebrated<br />
antiquary and historian, was minister here for over fifty<br />
years. A schoolroom in connection with the above was<br />
erected in 1878, and is in Spen Lane, immediately behind<br />
the chapel.<br />
UNITED, OR PLYMOUTH BRETHREN. — Small<br />
Meeting House in Webster's Passage, St. Saviourgate, opposite<br />
the church.<br />
WESLEYAN METHODIST CHAPELS.—New Street<br />
Chapkl, the oldest in the city, a very plain square brick<br />
building, erected in 1805 ; will hold 800 persons.<br />
Centenary Chapel, in St. Saviourgate, a large building<br />
of brick, with stone portico ; the pediment is supported on<br />
Ionic ])illars. It was opened in 1840 to commemorate the<br />
€entennry of Wesleyan Methodism; and has seats for 1,500.<br />
Wesley Chapel, Priory Street, is a handsome building of<br />
brick .':nd stone in the Italian style of architecture, erected<br />
in ISTrd at a cost of nearly £10,500; will seat 1,250.<br />
. BOURNE Terrace Chapel, Fishergate, is a building<br />
Me I<br />
similar to the above (Italian), with a campanile tower, in<br />
-which is a lighted clock ; was erected in 1877 at a cost of<br />
£8,300 ;<br />
will seat 850.<br />
Street Chapel, The Groves, a small plain<br />
buildiiig, erected in 1868 ; will hold 400 persons.<br />
Wilton Street School Chapel, Holgate Eoad, erected<br />
in 187:-' ;<br />
will seat 200 ; is used both as a school-room<br />
and pu'ce of worship.
83<br />
WESLEYAN METHODIST FEEE CHURCH, Goodramgate,<br />
near Monk Bar (called Monk Bar Chapel), is a substantial<br />
brick building with stone facings, erected in 1859.<br />
Will seat 800.<br />
WESLEYAN NEW CONNEXION CHAPEL in Peckitt<br />
Street, is of brick, slightly Moorish in style. Was erected in<br />
1856 ;<br />
and will seat 700.<br />
ENGLISH PEESBYTEEIAN, in Priory Street, was erected<br />
in 1880 ; is of white brick finished with stone dressings, has<br />
a low campanile tower. The design is classic. It cost about<br />
.£5,000, and will seat over 500 persons.<br />
ALMSHOUSES AND HOSPITALS.<br />
Agar's Hospital, Monkgate, founded by Alderman<br />
"Thomas Agar,' 1631, for six poor widows.<br />
Barstow's Hospital, Caroline Street, Nunnery Lane, for<br />
six poor people of either sex. Of its origin and history<br />
nothing definite is known. Eebuilt 1859.<br />
Colton's Hospital, in Eougier Street, Tanner Row, for<br />
•eight poor men, was founded by Dr. Colton and his wife in<br />
1717.<br />
Harrison's Hospital, Penley Grove Street, is a neat<br />
stone building in the Tudor style, with chapel in the centre,<br />
and was founded in 1845 by Mrs. Harrison for eight poor<br />
widows.<br />
Hewley's Hospital, St. Saviourgate, was founded by<br />
Dame Sarah, widow of Sir John Hewley, in 1700, for ten<br />
old women. It formerly stood in Tanner Row, but on the<br />
building of the old Railway Station (1840) was taken down,<br />
and the present site obtained. It consists of ten small houses,<br />
in the Elizabethan style, situate behind the church in this<br />
street.<br />
Ingram's Hospital, Bootham, consists of ten brick cottages,<br />
in the centre of which is a chapel, with curious Norman<br />
doorway and square tower. It was founded for the maintenance<br />
of ten poor widows by Sir Arthur Ingram, 1604.<br />
Middleton's Hospital, Skeldergate, founded in 1659 by<br />
Mrs. Anne Middleton for twenty poor freemen's widows.<br />
Over the entrance door is a full-length statue of the<br />
foundress.
84<br />
Mason's Hospital, CoUiergate, for six poor women, is a<br />
small almshouse, founded by Margaret Mason, 1732.<br />
Maison Dieu, in St. Dennis Church Lane, Walmgate,.<br />
rebuilt 1811. Much uncertainty exists as to its original<br />
founders, but it is devoted to the use of four poor shoemakers.<br />
Merchant Tailors' Hospital was built in 1730 by the<br />
Merchant Tailors' Company, for the use of four poor brethren<br />
or sisters. It is situate in Aldwark, adjoining the Company's<br />
HaU.<br />
St. Catherine's Hospital, Holgate Road, is of very<br />
ancient origin, and intended for the entertainment of poor<br />
travellers who could not pay for lodgings in the city. It is<br />
now used for the maintenance of four poor widows, a certain<br />
bequest being made for that purpose by Mrs, Frances<br />
Nicholson in 1709.<br />
St. Michael's (Spurriergate), Hospital, in Friargate, for<br />
four poor people.<br />
St. Thomas's Hospital, Victoria Bar, Nunnery-lane, is a<br />
handsome building, for twelve poor widows. It was founded<br />
by Mr. Luntley, who bequeathed £1,000 in 1791. It<br />
formerly belonged to the Guild of Corpus Christi, and is<br />
dedicated to the memory of St. Thomas a Beckett. The<br />
present erection dates 1862.<br />
Thompson's Hospital, Castlegate, founded in 1700 by<br />
Sir Henry Thompson, for the relief of six poor men.<br />
Trinity Hospital, Merchants' Hall, Fossgate, for five<br />
poor men and five poor women, is under the management o£<br />
the Merchants' Company. It is situate on the site of a<br />
hospital founded in 1373.<br />
Watter's Hospital, Chapel-row, George-street, Walmgate,<br />
was founded by Sir Robert Watter in 1612; consists of.<br />
seven cottages for as many poor women, and was rebuilt in<br />
1844.<br />
Wandesford's, or, as it is generally termed, "The Old<br />
Maids' " Hospital, Bootham, was founded by Mrs. Mary<br />
Wandesford for ten single gentlewomen, 1725. The build-^<br />
ing is of brick, and is separated from the street by a small<br />
grass plot. There is a chapel on the ground floor, in which<br />
service is held every Wednesday and Friday.
85<br />
Wilson's Hospital, Fossbridge, for ten poor women, was<br />
founded and endowed by Mrs. Dorothy Wilson, 1717. The<br />
j)roperty, having lately much increased in value, now affords<br />
relief to sixteen alms-women and eight blind pensioners (nonresident).<br />
Wintersoale's Hospital, Walmgate, founded by Mr.<br />
Percival Winterscale in 1705, for six poor women of St.<br />
Margaret's Parish.<br />
Penitentiary, or Eefuge, is on Bishophill; Was first<br />
established in 1822, and its funds liberally increased by a<br />
.l3equest of £5,000 made by Dr. Beckwith in 1843.<br />
MEDICAL.<br />
COUNTY HOSPITAL,<br />
"Monkgate, is a large and handsome structure of brick,<br />
with stone dressings, consisting of four stories, having an<br />
Italian elevation ;<br />
was erected in 1850. The charity was<br />
founded originally by Lady Elizabeth Hastings in 1740, who<br />
left a legacy of i;500 " for the relief of the diseased<br />
poor of the city and county of York." It is supported by<br />
donations and annual subscriptions. There are 110 beds for<br />
patients. The daily average number of in-patients is at prersent<br />
77. The number of out-patients during the year is<br />
about 4000.<br />
DISPENSAEY,<br />
New Street, was founded in 1788, and removed to its<br />
present situation in 1828, at a cost of about £2000. The<br />
number of patients attended to yearly is over 9,000.<br />
INSTITUTION FOR DISEASES OF THE EYE,<br />
Held in a room in Merchant Tailors' Hall, Aldwark, was<br />
founded in 1831.<br />
HOMOEOPATHIC DISPENSARY,<br />
Victoria Hall, Goodramgate, was established 1851 ;<br />
open on<br />
Tuesdays and Saturdays.<br />
INVALID KITCHEN, Blake Street.<br />
INSTITUTION FOR TRAINED NURSES, No. 7, Bootham.
86<br />
THE EETEEAT,<br />
Heslington Eoad, was establislied 1796 for tlie use of tlie<br />
insane members of the Society of Friends, and others in<br />
profession with them. It stands in the midst of gardens<br />
and pleasure grounds, on an elevated site commanding extensive<br />
views. Since its foundation it has, on several occasions,<br />
been enlarged, and now occupies twenty- eight acres of<br />
land. The founders of this institution, amongst whom the<br />
name of Samuel Tuke stands prominent, were sensible that<br />
great abuses existed in many houses devoted to the treatment<br />
of the insane, fear being at that time considered the great<br />
principle by which these afflicted creatures were to be<br />
governed. George Jepson, the first permanent superintendent,<br />
doubting the wisdom of such a course, abandoned the<br />
system of terror, and endeavoured during thirty years to<br />
influence the patients through the kindly affection of the<br />
heart, and that, too, with great success. This was the first<br />
institution in the country in which the mild system of treatment<br />
was adopted. The number of inmates at present is<br />
about 150. Three-fourths of the income is derived from<br />
payments by the patients, the remainder from annual subscriptions,<br />
donations, legacies, and annuities.<br />
Adjoining is the burial ground for the Society of Friends.<br />
THE YOEK LUNATIC ASYLUM,<br />
In Bootham, was erected by subscription, in 1777, for<br />
the relief of the indigent poor suffering from mental<br />
derangement, and was calculated to accommodate fiftyfour<br />
patients, a limited number of the higher class being<br />
subsequently admitted for the benefit of the institution.<br />
The approach is through an avenue of lime trees nearly<br />
a quarter of a mile in length. The front has a handsome<br />
appearance, four pillars supporting a Doric pediment,<br />
and on the roof is a cylindrical bell tower, surrounded<br />
with small columns, and surmounted with cupola and vane.<br />
The discipline for many years appears to have been of the<br />
most rigorous kind; proper attention was not paid to the<br />
comfort of the inmates, who were exposed to the most cruel<br />
treatment at the hands of the keepers. In consequence of<br />
the violent controversy caused by the publication of Samuel<br />
Tuke's description of The Retreat, a strict investigation into
87<br />
the government of the asylum took place, which resulted in<br />
the dismissal of every servant and officer engaged, and the<br />
resignation of the physician. The rules were revised, and<br />
the whole establishment thoroughly reorganised, since which<br />
time a more humane and gentle regime has been adopted.<br />
Whilst the investigation was in progress a fire occurred<br />
which destroyed one wing of the building, four of the<br />
patients perishing in the flames. The institution has been<br />
considerably enlarged, and has now room for two hundred<br />
patients.<br />
In the grounds is a handsome church, erected in 1865, which<br />
the more convalescent patients are allowed to attend.<br />
The management is vested in a committee of gentlemen<br />
selected from the governors of the institution, who hold quarterly<br />
and annual courts. A donation of £20 constitutes the<br />
giver a life governor. In October, 1877, was celebrated the<br />
centenary of its existence.<br />
THE PAUPER LUNATIC ASYLUM<br />
For the North Eiding of Yorkshire, is at Clifton, about two<br />
miles from York. It is a very extensive pile of buildings, principally<br />
in the Elizabethan style of architecture, and consists of<br />
two wings, running right and left, with the Medical Superintendent's<br />
house in the centre. It was opened in 1847, and<br />
originally designed to accommodate 150 patients; but in 1851<br />
and 1856 such additions were made to it that it is now capable<br />
of domiciling between 500 and 600 patients. The buildings,<br />
with pleasure grounds and shrubberies, occupy about fifteen<br />
acres of land ; the garden and orchard comprise about<br />
forty-five acres. Attached to the establishment is a farm of<br />
about 140 acres, arable and pasture, which is worked by the<br />
patients. There is an embankment 1,000 yards long, 30<br />
feet wide at base, and 12 feet high, near the river, to protect<br />
the grounds from floods. Since the opening there have<br />
been admitted about 2,000 of each sex; the average weekly<br />
cost for each year it has been in existence, per patient for<br />
maintenance, including officers' salaries, attendants, nurses,<br />
servants' wages, together with board and washing, has been<br />
8s. 4d. The average number of patients under care during<br />
the year is between 600 and 700. There is a church<br />
within the grounds capable of seating 320 persons.
88<br />
SCHOLASTIC AND LITEEAEY.<br />
THE EOYAL SCHOOL OF ST.<br />
PETER<br />
Is the school of the Cathedral Church of York, founded 1557<br />
by Queen Mary, who entrusted to the Dean and Chapter certain<br />
lands for its endowment. It is situate in Clifton,<br />
about half a mile from Bootham Bar. The present buildings,<br />
in the Perpendicular style, were purchased by the Dean in 1844<br />
from a Collegiate School started in 1838. There is a chapel<br />
attached {Decorated) built by subscription in 1862. The<br />
residence of the principal is adjoining the school. The<br />
course of education is the same as in all first grade public<br />
schools, and there is also a civil and military department, in<br />
which boys can be prepared for the army, the medical and<br />
legal professions, or business. There are two foundation<br />
scholarships and two free scholarships elected annually.<br />
One exhibitioner is elected annually, who is at liberty to<br />
proceed to any of the University Colleges—value of the<br />
exhibition is £50 a year. This school is one of those to<br />
which the Lady Hastings Exhibitions at Oxford are appropriated.<br />
AECHBISHOP HOLGATE'S SCHOOL,<br />
A collegiate-looking building near the Gillygate end of Lord<br />
Mayor's Walk, was founded by Archbishop Holgate in<br />
1546 as a Free Grammar School ; the original building<br />
was situate in Ogleforth. In 1858, upon a new scheme<br />
of management being drawn up with special reference to<br />
the wants of the middle classes, the present building<br />
(then the Yeoman School) was purchased by the trustees.<br />
It has accommodation for about 100 boarders ;<br />
day boys<br />
are also admitted. The fees are very moderate, and the<br />
Archbishop of York is patron by virtue of his office.<br />
YORK DIOCESAN TRAINING INSTITUTION,<br />
A larger building of a similar character adjoining the above<br />
School, was established (1846) for the preparation of masters<br />
for parochial schools, and is under Government inspection.<br />
There are dormitories for 70 students, who are instructed in
89<br />
?tlie art of teaching under tlie master of the Model and<br />
Practising School which is in connection with this college.<br />
On certain conditions students are admitted on the small<br />
annual payment of £5, others at £35. There is a private*<br />
chapel attached.<br />
BLUE COAT BOYS' SCHOOL.<br />
-St. Anthony's Hall, formerly St. Anthony's Hospital,<br />
Peaseholme Green, was founded by a number of citizens,<br />
without distinction of sex, who formed themselves into<br />
a guild (1446) dedicated to the Blessed Mary and St.<br />
Martin the Confessor, and erected upon a site given by<br />
Sir John Langton about 1450, for the reception of aged<br />
,and impotent poor. This Sir John was grandson of<br />
Sir John de Langton, nine times Mayor of York, who<br />
lived about a century earlier. Although the building<br />
and guild were dedicated as above mentioned the members<br />
persisted in claiming St. Anthony as their patron, and named<br />
their guild after him, notwithstanding the strong prohibition<br />
against such a course contained in their charter. At the<br />
dissolution of religious houses by Henry VIII. this institution<br />
managed to escape, and continued through various<br />
fortunes until 1627, when it was abolished by order of the<br />
Corporation. During the latter 80 or 35 years of the 16th<br />
century it was used partly as a work-house^ partly as a poorhouse,<br />
and partly as a house of correction for the confinement<br />
and punishment of rogues and vagabonds (1586). In<br />
the troublous times of Charles L, this building was offered<br />
to the Council of the North as a magazine for arms, and<br />
stored no doubt with piles of muskets and barrels of gunj)owder.<br />
After the battle of Marston Moor (1644) it was<br />
converted into a hospital for sick and wounded soldiers, and<br />
again in 1655 it became the house of correction—the only<br />
one in the city.<br />
In 1705 all the parts of the building not required for<br />
jail purposes, including the great hall, were appropriated<br />
for the accommodation of a newly formed charitable institution<br />
called the Blue Coat Boys' School, and a century<br />
later another prison being built the whole of the building<br />
was devoted to the same charity. In it 70 poor boys<br />
are now clothed, boarded, and educated, the cost being
90<br />
defrayed by donations and public subscription. The lower<br />
part of the building is of stone, the upper of brick, and on<br />
the ground floor are the committee room, dining hall, kitchen<br />
and other offices. Up stairs is the great hall (81ft. by 27ft. and<br />
40 feet high), dormitories, &c. The open timber roof is of<br />
bold design, and is supported upon arches springing from<br />
pillars, each consisting of the trunk of a tree. It is ornamented<br />
with corbels of angels bearing shields and richly<br />
carved bosses of various devices. A fine organ was erected<br />
on one side in 1858 by Messrs. Forster and Andrews, of Hull.<br />
In this room is also a very valuable collection of English<br />
birds, bequeathed in 1878 by Mr. G. Wright of this city, an<br />
amateur taxidermist of some skill.<br />
In glancing over the history of this building from its<br />
foundation (1450) to the present time, one cannot help being<br />
struck by its eventful career. There is scarcely any purpose<br />
to which it has not been applied. Eobert Davies, the antiquary,<br />
says—<br />
^'<br />
It was originally a house of religion and a<br />
house of charity—a house of festivity and a house of business.<br />
Thus it flourished for nearly a century and a quarter, when<br />
it became a work-house and a poor-house ;<br />
occasionally, a<br />
play-house ; for many years a school of archery, and still<br />
longer a prison-house. In time of war it was a place of<br />
deposit for engines and materials of battle and bloodshed<br />
and then it was converted into a house of refuge and repose<br />
for the sick and wounded. At length, after having borne the<br />
wear and tear, the buffets and the neglect of nearly three<br />
centuries, this venerable structure of mediaeval times became<br />
a house of Christian education, order, and discipline."<br />
GEEY COAT GIELS' SCHOOL,<br />
Monkgate, a simple, unpretending building, erected on the<br />
site of the old school in 1869, at a cost of over £2,000,<br />
where forty-four girls are clothed, boarded, and educated,<br />
to fit them for domestic service. This institution was established<br />
in 1705, and is part of the same charity, under a<br />
committee of ladies, as the Blue Coat Boys' School.<br />
THE YOEKSHIEE SCHOOL FOE THE BLIND,<br />
Situate in Bootham, close to the Bar, was established in 1833<br />
as a memorial to William Wilberforce, statesman and philanthropist,<br />
who represented the county in Parliament for thirty
91<br />
years. The building is of quaint Jacobean arcliitecture, in<br />
tlie form of a quadrangle, overgrown with ivy. Above the<br />
entrance are the arms and cypher of James I. ; and in<br />
the dormitories are sculptured coats of arms of the Earls<br />
of Huntington and Warwick, of Queen Elizabeth's time.<br />
Its object is to enable blind children of both sexes to earn<br />
their own livelihood, by giving them such instruction as shall<br />
best tend to that end. They are taught basket, mat, and<br />
brushmaking ; and a number of articles made by them are<br />
always on sale. Such as have talent for music are carefully<br />
taught, and many of them become church organists and<br />
teachers in their turn. They are also well grounded in the<br />
ordinary branches of an English education.<br />
The building and its surroundings teem with memories<br />
of olden times. It stands on the site of the house of<br />
the Abbot of St. Mary's, and here he dispensed his princely<br />
hospitality centuries ago. The only vestige of this palace now<br />
remaining is the wide and heavy staircase. After the dissolution,<br />
the Abbey was claimed by the Crown, and a splendid palace<br />
for King Henry YHL, called the King's Manor, was erected.<br />
Here James YI. of Scotland and his Consort were received<br />
by Lord Burleigh, on his accession to the Crown of<br />
England in 1603. In the time of Charles I. the Earl<br />
of Strafford resided here for several years, and the King<br />
himself remained one month, on his journey to the North,<br />
and also held Parliaments here. It was a garrison for the<br />
Eoyalist soldiers during the siege of 1644, and in the<br />
time of the Commonwealth was tenanted by Colonel Lilburne,<br />
one of the judges at the trial of the King. In the reign of<br />
James II. it was very nearly becoming a Eoman Catholic<br />
College, his Majesty having granted the use of it for thirty<br />
years to Father Lawson, who was prevented from carrying<br />
out his desire by the enraged citizens. It became a Eoyal<br />
Mint in 1696-7, gold and silver coins being struck. In 1723<br />
it passed to the De Grey family, in whose hands it remained<br />
until 1833, when a lease was obtained by the Committee for<br />
its present purposes.<br />
Visitors are admitted free on every day, except Sundays.<br />
On Thursday afternoons, at 2-30, a concert (admission sixpence)<br />
is given by the pupils in the Music-room, which in<br />
1878 was greatly enlarged. A fine organ is placed at one end.
92<br />
INDUSTRIAL SCHOOL FOR BOYS,<br />
Occupies part of the site of the old workhouse in Marygate,<br />
established in 1848 (certified as an Industrial School<br />
July, 1858). The present premises were built in 1875-6.<br />
There are 120 scholars, who daily receive sound elementary<br />
instruction and a knowledge of some handicraft. All of<br />
them receive three meals daily, and some reside in the school.<br />
INDUSTRIAL SCHOOL FOR GIRLS<br />
Is at 28, Monkgate ; was originally conducted as a part of<br />
the Certified Industrial Schools in Marygate. It was established<br />
in the present premises on the 1st July, 1877. There<br />
is accommodation for upwards of 30 girls, who are lodged<br />
and fed ;<br />
they are also carefully and thoroughly instructed<br />
in household work, and subject to certain regulations.<br />
HAUGHTON'S CHARITY SCHOOL<br />
Was founded by William Haughton, originally a dancing<br />
master in York, who retired to Coldbath Fields, Middlesex,<br />
where he died. He left by will, proved 1773, the sum of<br />
£1,300 to the parish of St. Crux for the edu\3ation of 20 poor<br />
children of that parish. The school is in St. Saviourgate.<br />
WILSON'S CHARITY SCHOOL,<br />
On Fossbridge, was founded by Dorothy Wilson, a maiden<br />
lady, in 1717, for the clothing and education of 50 poor boys<br />
and 20 girls.<br />
GOVERNMENT SCHOOL OF DESIGN,<br />
Minster Yard (formerly St. Peter's School), stands on the site<br />
occupied by the old Deanery, is a branch of the Department<br />
of Practical Art, South Kensington, and was established about<br />
1850. It is a small ecclesiastical-looking building in the Tudor<br />
style, and possesses a good collection of casts of ornaments and<br />
figures from the antique ;<br />
classes are held thrice daily. It is<br />
supported by a Government grant, the fees paid by students,<br />
and local subscriptions, which latter are most disproportionate<br />
to the requirements. The large oil painting, by Marsden,<br />
of " Paul before Agrippa," formerly hung in the Guildhall,<br />
was taken down in order to make room for Alderman<br />
Leeman's window, and presented to the committee of this<br />
institution by the Corporation. On the plot of ground in<br />
iront are three guns used by the Artillery Volunteers for<br />
drill.
93<br />
FEIENDS' BOYS' SCHOOL<br />
Is the very commodious building No. 20, Bootham.<br />
FEIENDS' GIELS' SCHOOL<br />
Is the lofty erection in the street leading from the Mount tO'<br />
Holgate Eoad railway bridge.<br />
GTELS' HIGH SCHOOL<br />
Fishergate House, Fishergate, an establishment for the higher<br />
education of girls of the middle class.<br />
INSTITUTE OF POPULAE SCIENCE & LITEEATUEE,<br />
St. Saviourgate, nearly opposite the church, was established in<br />
1827, and removed here in 1846. The Library (of 6000 vols.)<br />
is open from 7 to 9 p.m., and contains a good selection of<br />
standard works in scientific and general knowledge, as well<br />
as the lighter literature of the day. The reading-room is<br />
open from 8 a.m. till 10 p.m. daily, except Sundays; and is well<br />
supplied with the leading periodicals and daily papers. Lectures<br />
are delivered and entertainments given weekly (on<br />
Tuesdays, at 8 p.m.) during winter, and classes formed for<br />
the study of art, science, language, &c. The Institute is in<br />
union with the Society of Arts, London, and the Yorkshire<br />
Union of Mechanics' Institutes. The number of members<br />
averages 650.<br />
PEIMITIVE METHODIST COLLEGE,<br />
Elmfield, Malton Eoad, established 1864, enlarged in 1876.<br />
Intended for the education of youths of the above persuasion,<br />
and has accommodation for 110 pupils.<br />
LIBEAEIES.<br />
YOEK SUBSCEIPTION LIBEAEY,<br />
Founded in 1794 by the Eev. Charles Welbeloved as the<br />
York Book Society, was removed in 1836 to No. 1, St.,<br />
Leonard's Place ; consists of about 37,000 volumes of the best<br />
literature ;<br />
open from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. The society is<br />
proprietary, consisting of about three hundred members.<br />
MINSTEE LIBEAEY,<br />
Open on Wednesdays from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. ;<br />
Saturdays, 2:<br />
to 4 p.m. (See page 42.)
94<br />
INSTITUTE LIBEAEY,<br />
St. Saviourgate; open from 7 to 9 p.m. daily (except Sundays).<br />
EAILWAY LIBKARY AND NEWS-ROOM,<br />
Queen Street, near the new Railway Station<br />
;<br />
open from<br />
1 to 10 p.m., except Sundays ;<br />
contains 6,500 volumes.<br />
CHURCH OF ENGLAND LIBRARY & READING-ROOM,<br />
Friendly Societies' Hall, Castlegate<br />
;<br />
open from 9 a.m. to 10<br />
p.m. daily, except Sundays ; contains 1,000 volumes.<br />
YORK LAW LIBRARY,<br />
3, Spurriergate<br />
;<br />
open from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m.<br />
YOUNG MEN'S CHRISTIAN ASSOCIATION,<br />
Was established in 1870. The rooms are at 9, High Ousegate,<br />
where will be found a library containing about 600<br />
volumes ;<br />
also a reading-room, which is open daily from 9<br />
a.m. to 10 p.m. ;<br />
and on Sundays, from 1-30 to 5-30 p.m.,<br />
and from 7-80 to 9-30 p.m.<br />
MILITAEY.<br />
THE CAVALRY BARRACKS,<br />
Erected in 1726, enlarged 1861, are on the left hand side of<br />
the Fulford road, and lie within the city boundary. The<br />
buildings and grounds occupy about thirty acres. There is<br />
accommodation for one thousand men, with ample stable room<br />
for their horses. Commodious officers' quarters—in front of<br />
which is a well-kept grass plot—with large mess room, face<br />
the entrance gates. The buildings are set out on three sides<br />
of a quadrangle, the centre being set apart as an exercise<br />
ground for foot drill. There is a handsome Gothic Chapel<br />
of Ease within the grounds. A few yards further on are the<br />
INFANTRY BARRACKS,<br />
Occupying about thirty-four acres of ground. The massive<br />
looking building close to the road is the arsenal, and reminds<br />
one strongly of the feudal castles in the middle ages. It is of<br />
brick with stone dressings and towers, the whole capped by<br />
a stone battlement, and is capable of holding six thousand<br />
stand of arms and clothing for the same number of soldiers.<br />
The barracks, a series of brick buildings running east and<br />
west and facing each other, between which is the spacious
95<br />
drill ground, afford accommodation for over eleven hundred<br />
men, with quarters for the officers and their families. The<br />
total cost of the buildings was about £150,000. On the<br />
opposite side of the road, facing the cavalry barracks, is the<br />
MILITAEY HOSPITAL,<br />
Which has recently been considerably enlarged in order to<br />
meet the possible requirements of both sections of the service.<br />
If necessary, one hundred and fifty patients can be received ;<br />
but we sincerely hope that its capabilities will never be so far<br />
tested. The hospital and grounds cover nearly six acres. The<br />
BRANCH WAR OFFICE<br />
For the Northern district, necessitated by the formation of a<br />
military centre at York, is situate at th^ angle of Melbourne<br />
Street and Fishergate, leading towards Fulford. It is a neat<br />
looking building of brick, in the Elizabethan style of architecture,<br />
ornamented with stone ;<br />
has a lofty tower and clock<br />
with two dials. It is intended solely for military purposes,<br />
and is furnished with suites of offices for the Assistant<br />
Quarter-Master-General, Assistant Adjutant-General, Commanding<br />
Officer of Royal Engineers, Medical Officer, Commanding<br />
Officer and Adjutant of Royal Artillery, Ordnance<br />
Committee, Commissariat Department, and various other<br />
•officials.<br />
MILITIA DEPOT<br />
Of the 2nd West York Light Infantry, is in Lowther Street, The<br />
Groves—a residence for the Adjutant, and rooms for storing<br />
the arms of the regiment, which is about one thousand<br />
strong, and is called up annually for driU. This regiment<br />
was raised in York in 1759.<br />
THE DRILL HALL,<br />
St. Andrewgate, belonging to the Rifle Volunteers, is an<br />
ornamental brick building with stone facings, 90 by 60 feet,<br />
with balcony at one end. It was erected in 1872, and is also<br />
used for public meetings.<br />
On the outside is the motto of the<br />
corps: Pro arts et focis.^^<br />
YORK RIFLE VOLUNTEERS<br />
Consists of 364 men and fifteen officers. The armoury is<br />
attached to the Victoria Drill Hall, St. Andrewgate. The<br />
York corps was raised in 1859, and subsequently incorporated<br />
with the 16th W,. R. (Harrogate), 17th W. R. (Knares-
96<br />
borough), 27tli W. R. (Ripon), 31st W. R. (Tadcaster), and<br />
38th W. R. (Selby) Corps of<br />
Rifle Volunteers, and the whole<br />
became the 1st Administrative Battalion of West Riding<br />
Rifle Volunteers, York being the head quarters.<br />
THIRD WEST YORK ARTILLERY VOLUNTEERS<br />
Were raised in 1861. They are divided into two batteries,<br />
with four guns, and consist of 150 men with five oflScers.<br />
They meet for drill in the Guildhall, and on a plot of ground<br />
in front of the School of Design. The armoury is at 49,<br />
Clarence Street.<br />
YORKSHIRE HUSSARS—YEOMANRY CAVALRY<br />
Consists of eight troops of fifty men each, with twenty-six:<br />
officers, who are called up for seven days' drill in May every<br />
year. The regiment was raised about the year 1800. The<br />
armoury and depot is in Bishopthorp e Road, but during the<br />
week of service head quarters are at the De Grey Rooms, St.<br />
Leonard's Place.<br />
PUBLIC BUILDINGS.<br />
CORN EXCHANGE,<br />
In King Street, is a large room, where the Corn Market is<br />
held on Saturdays. It is also used for meetings, concerts,<br />
and entertainments; will seat from 700 to 1,000 persons.<br />
DE GREY ROOMS,<br />
St. Leonard's Place, near Bootham Bar, were erected in<br />
1841, for the Mess of the Officers of the Yorkshire Yeomanry<br />
Cavalry, and named after their colonel. Earl De<br />
Grey, whose portrait hangs in the principal room. This<br />
room is about 60 by 30 feet, with an orchestra, and is<br />
suitable for balls, concerts, entertainments, &c. It is also<br />
used as an ordinary for the barristers frequenting the<br />
Northern Circuit, and as a Mess-room for the Officers of<br />
the Militia.<br />
FRIENDLY SOCIETIES' HALL,<br />
Castlegate, is one of the old mansions formerly inhabited<br />
by the nobility when residing in the city. It consists of a<br />
number of rooms—the largest will seat 600—and is owned<br />
by a "limited" company of shareholders.
97<br />
JUDGES' LODGINGS,<br />
Xendal, is a large, plain building of brick ; stands back<br />
from the street, has a double flight of steps in front, and<br />
is used by the Judges as a residence when presiding at the<br />
:^k.ssizes<br />
THE MASONIC HALL,<br />
Within the enclosure in Duncombe Street, opposite the<br />
Eoman Catholic Pro- Cathedral of St. Wilfrid, is a stone<br />
building with Grecian portico and entablature, bearing<br />
the motto Audi^ vide^ tace^'' and is used by the brethren<br />
of the York Lodge of Freemasons, No. 236 on the roll of<br />
the Grand Lodge of England-—the Zetland Chapter, No.<br />
236— and the Ancient Ebor Preceptory of the Knights<br />
Templars, No. 101, of York. As the early history of<br />
Masonry in this country is so closely identified with the<br />
city of York, we add a few notes which may prove interesting<br />
to the general reader.<br />
It was here that the first Grand Lodge of All England was<br />
held (about 600 or 627 a.d.) under Edwin, the first Christian<br />
King of Northumbria, who presided as Grand Master, and laid<br />
the foundation of the Cathedral. This tradition, supported as<br />
it is by valuable independent testimony, acknowledges York<br />
to be, if not the birthplace, at least the primitive authoritative<br />
seat of Masonry in England. A guild charter was also g:^anted<br />
to the craft by King Athelstane in 926, during whose reign it<br />
is more than probable that another general assembly of<br />
Masons was held in the city. The fortunes and influence of<br />
the Order varied through successive years with the cha^nging<br />
character of the times—occasionally languishing from<br />
neglect, then again reviving under more propitious days---<br />
but always acknowledging allegiance to the seat of Masonic<br />
government, the Grand Lodge at York,<br />
To this Order we owe such architectural monuments as the<br />
Abbey of Westminster, the Tower of London, the Temple,<br />
York Minster, several of our cathedrals, and other structures.<br />
Until the reign of Queen Elizabeth the members of the<br />
Masonic body consisted almost entirely of operatives, but about<br />
this time many noblemen and gentlemen seeking admission<br />
were initiated and enrolled as speculative participators in the<br />
customs and usages of the Order, which now embraces in its<br />
jranks all classes of men, from the crowned heads of civilised
98<br />
Europe to the benighted savage in the wildest wastes of<br />
Africa. This Grand Lodge of All England, after flourishing<br />
several hundred years, gradually declined, and held its last<br />
meeting August 23, 1792, its functions being taken over by<br />
the Grand Lodge of England (London). From this latter<br />
the present Lodge, No. 236, received its warrant of constitution<br />
in July, 1777 ; it is now in a flourishing condition,,<br />
with upwards of 150 subscribing members, and celebrated'<br />
its centenary in 1877. The hall contains several objects of<br />
great Masonic interest. The meetings are held at 7 p.m. on<br />
the first and third Monday in each month from October to<br />
March inclusive, and on the third Monday in each month<br />
from April to September inclusive.<br />
MERCHANTS' HALL,<br />
In Fossgate, is of great antiquity. Over the entrance<br />
gateway are the arms of the company, sculptured in stone,,<br />
with their motto, " Dieu nous donne bonne adventure,''^<br />
The hall itself is approached by an ascent of steps from<br />
the court-yard, and consists of two rooms (formerly one),<br />
each 65 by 25 feet. The inner room contains numerous<br />
portraits of former Governors of the Company, and is<br />
used for guild meetings. The first entered room is used<br />
for a Sunday School. By permission of the Governor,,<br />
these rooms are occasionally let for religious assemblies. The<br />
small room on the right is used by the York Penny Bank.<br />
On opening a large trap-door, at the end of the first large<br />
room, steps are discovered leading to a chapel, in which<br />
service is performed only once a year, generally in April,<br />
when the members of the company are expected to attend<br />
in guild dress ; the chapel has but this one singular entrance.<br />
MERCHANT TAILORS' HALL<br />
Is a building of brick at the bottom of a court in Aldwark<br />
is now used as a mixed National School and for the Eye<br />
Institution. The guild formerly numbered amongst its<br />
members kings, dukes, and earls, and still continues to hold<br />
its meetings in one of the small rooms of the building.<br />
POST OFFICE,<br />
Lendal, a plain substantial stone building, erected in 1840,,<br />
recently enlarged and improved.
99<br />
POSTAL TELEGKAPH OFFICE<br />
Is in Micklegate, opposite the end of<br />
Eailway Street.^ This<br />
is also a post and money order office.<br />
POOR-LAW OFFICES,<br />
Museum Street, a substantial 'building of stone where the<br />
Board of Guardians meet every Thursday, The ground-floor<br />
is used as<br />
a subscription news-room.<br />
SAVINGS BANK,<br />
Corner of St. Helen's Square and Blake Street, built of stone<br />
in the Italian style, and consists of suitable offices, with<br />
a large room on the first floor lent only for charitable and<br />
benevolent purposes, capable of seating about two hundred<br />
persons.<br />
THE ASSEMBLY ROOMS,<br />
Built after a design by the Earl of Burlington, in 1730, at a<br />
cost of £5,000, are entered through a portico with Corinthian<br />
columns in Blake Street, and are used for county and other<br />
balls. The principal room is the Egyptian Hall, 112<br />
feet long by 4jO broad, and 40 in height. There is a<br />
commodious orchestra on one side ; the roof is supported by<br />
54 massive Corinthian columns, the whole being neatly<br />
decorated. There is a smaller room about 60 by 20 feet,<br />
with ladies' and card room adjoining.<br />
. THE<br />
FESTIVAL CONCERT ROOM<br />
Is the largest public room in the city, and will accommodate<br />
about two thousand persons. It has a frontage in the<br />
Alhambra or Moorish style, and is entered from Museum<br />
Street, opposite St. Leonard's Hospital. It was built in 1824<br />
for the convenience of the audience at the evening concerts<br />
of the Yorkshire Musical Festivals, the Assembly Rooms not<br />
being large enough for the purpose. The cost of its erection<br />
was about J69,500. The interior is decorated in accordance<br />
with the principles of Greek art, having a frieze copied from<br />
the Elgin marbles. It is 95 by 60, and 45 feet high ; has a<br />
capacious orchestra, and in the winter season is used for<br />
meetings and musical entertainments. On extraordinary<br />
occasions the large folding doors between this and the<br />
Assembly Rooms are thrown open.
100<br />
THEATRE ROYAL,<br />
Corner of St. Leonard's Place and Buncombe Street, was<br />
erected in 1765, by Tate Wilkinson, an eccentric actor of<br />
his day. The new frontage in St. Leonard's Place, a<br />
handsome Gothic structure •of stone, was built in 1879.<br />
Underneath is a vault or crypt, consisting of a series of<br />
arches, with short Norman pillars, partly hidden by modern<br />
brickwork. This is doubtless a portion of the remains of St.<br />
Peter's Church destroyed by fire in 1137.<br />
VICTORIA HALL,<br />
Goodramgate, formerly the Temperance Lecture Hall, belongs<br />
to the trustees of the Temperance Society. It will accommodate<br />
about one thousand persons ; is prettily decorated, and is<br />
used for entertainments, religious meetings, &c.<br />
YORK GASLIGHT COMPANY'S<br />
Premises in Monkgate were erected in 1823. The principal<br />
object of interest is the elegant chimney, built in the same<br />
proportions as the column in the forum of Trajan at Rome,<br />
and which can be seen for miles on the east side of the city.<br />
YORK POOR-LAW UNION WORKHOUSE<br />
Is a large and commodious building on the Huntington Road.<br />
The Union includes all the parishes (25) of the city, and 44<br />
of the surrounding districts.<br />
YORK NEW WATERWORKS COMPANY.<br />
The head offices are adjoining Lendal Tower. The<br />
pumping engines and reservoirs are on the banks of the<br />
river Ouse about a mile north of the city. The high service<br />
reservoir is on the top of Severus' Hill. This company<br />
was established in 1850, the earliest mention of waterworks<br />
in York dating from 1677, when Lendal Tower was leased<br />
to a London merchant named Richard Whistler for 500 years<br />
at the annual rent of a peppercorn.<br />
YORKSHIRE FIRE AND LIFE INSURANCE<br />
COMPANY'S<br />
Head offices (established 1824), with an Italian front, are<br />
situate at the corner of Lendal and St. Helen's Square,<br />
looking down Coney Street ;<br />
they were built in 1848.<br />
The fire engines and escape are in charge of the police.
101<br />
YORKSHIRE FINE ART AND INDUSTRIAL<br />
INSTITUTION.<br />
This building, wliicli is classic in design, has a frontage of<br />
104 feet, and stands on a plot of ground known as Bearpark's<br />
Gardens, close to the Wilberforce School for the Blind.<br />
The elevation is seen admirably from Bootham Bar and the<br />
De Grey Rooms, being in a line with that end of St. Leonard's<br />
Place. The sides are of white brick, with slight stone dressings.<br />
The front is entirely of stone, and is graced by an<br />
open arcaded portico of five arches, and one in each return.<br />
This portion of the building will be further ornamented by<br />
the addition of statuary and mosaics as soon as there are sufficient<br />
funds in hand to meet the necessary expense. Under<br />
and on each side of the portico, which covers a space of 54 by IS<br />
feet, are several doorways ;<br />
passing through any one of which<br />
we step into the entrance hall (39 by 27 feet), having secretary's<br />
ofiice, lavatories, and other rooms on each side. This<br />
leads immediately into the central lecture or concert hall (87<br />
by 39 feet and 50 feet high), with curved open roof. Flanking<br />
this on either side, and forming continuous galleries<br />
lighted from the top, are rooms for pictures. The one on<br />
the right measures 85 by 29 feet; that on the left, 102 by<br />
29 feet, their uniform height 26 feet. A permanent picture<br />
saloon, about the same size as the last-mentioned gallery, is<br />
over the front part of the building, and is approached by a<br />
wide staircase ; it is furnished with fire-proof floor, and<br />
lighted by double skylights. In addition to paintings, it<br />
is proposed to make also a permanent collection of other works<br />
of art, industry, and technical appliances. This, when complete,<br />
in association with the Museum of the Yorkshire<br />
^'<br />
Philosophical Society, in close proximity to St. Mary's Abbey,<br />
the occupation of the old palace buildings by the Wilberforce<br />
School for the Blind, the whole enclosed by the Abbey Walls,<br />
but yet opened out by a noble square, will form an object of<br />
interest perfectly unique and unsurpassed by anything in the<br />
kingdom."<br />
In this building there are periodic exhibitions of oil<br />
paintings and water colours, with other works of art. The<br />
grand saloon is admirably adapted for the exhibition of<br />
paintings from the clever management of the top lights.<br />
The large hall is occasionally used for lectures and concerts.
102<br />
BKIDGES, MAEKETS, AND FAIKS.<br />
LENDAL BRIDGE<br />
Is of iron, and was erected by the late Thos. Page, C.E., in<br />
1862, at a total cost—including the approaches—of £35,000.<br />
It is designed on the plan of that at Westminster by the<br />
same architect, and replaced an iron girder bridge which fell<br />
before completion, causing the death of six persons. The<br />
span of the single arch is 175ft. 2in., the width 37ft. 10 in.,<br />
with a clear height from the summer level of the river of 25<br />
feet. The ironwork, weighing 380 tons, is formed of six<br />
massive ribs, on which the carriage way is placed : it consists<br />
of strong iron plates overlaid with concrete, and paving<br />
of Mont-Sorrel granite covered with gravel.<br />
In the central portion of the open parapet are a series<br />
of quatrefoils 18 in. in diameter, upon which are fixed shields<br />
with the arms of England, the see of York, and also the<br />
white rose of York, all emblazoned. In the centre on<br />
each side is an ornamental gas standard of two lights, with<br />
devices of roses and fleur-de-lis. Beneath, on the outer sides,<br />
England.<br />
are angels supporting the Red Cross of<br />
From this graceful bridge fine views are obtained of the<br />
Cathedral, Museum grounds and St. Mary's Abbey, Guildhall,<br />
new Railway Hotel, and the windings of the river Ouse.<br />
A toll of one halfpenny is demanded at the lodge.<br />
SCARBOROUGH RAILWAY BRIDGE.<br />
Looking up the river is seen the Scarborough Railway<br />
Bridge—a neat structure of iron, built in 1845, across which<br />
the traflic with the East Riding is principally carried on.<br />
There is also a path for foot passengers.<br />
OUSE BRIDGE<br />
Is built of stone, and connects Micklegate with Ousegate.<br />
It consists of three elliptical arches, the span of the centre<br />
one being 75 feet, and was erected in 1810, the foundation<br />
stone being laid by the Lord Mayor, Geo. Peacock, Esq. It
103<br />
^as finisliecl in 1820, during tlie second mayoralty of Mr»<br />
Peacock, who, by a singular coincidence, laid the last stone<br />
on the 19th of August. There are large and substantial<br />
flights of steps on the south side at each end, which lead<br />
down to the Staiths on both sides of the river.<br />
A bridge has stood here from the earliest times ; and upon<br />
the entry into York of Archbishop William, its patron saint, in<br />
1154, the wooden erection, being crowded, gave way, precipitating<br />
many people into the river "<br />
: oweing to his prayers,<br />
however, none were drowned." The first stone bridge was<br />
built in 1235, and was destroyed by a terrible flood 1564.<br />
In 1268-—an affray occurring here between the citizens and<br />
a Scotch nobleman, which resulted in several deaths—<br />
chapel, dedicated to St. William, was built, in order that<br />
prayers might continually be said for their souls. After the<br />
Eeformation this chapel was successively converted into an<br />
exchange, a council chamber, record ofiice, and felons' prison.<br />
It was taken down in 1810, with the old structure to which<br />
it was attached, both having become very dangerous.<br />
SKELDEEGATE BEIDGE,<br />
Between Skeldergate postern and Tower Street, for the<br />
-convenience of the cattle trafiic, is of iron, from a<br />
design of the late Thos. Page, C.E., and erected under<br />
superintendence of his son, Mr. Geo. G. Page. It<br />
consists of five arches, three of which cross the river and<br />
two for the land traffic on each side the river. The<br />
centre arch has a span of 90 feet ; the other river spans are<br />
30 feet wide and the the land arches 24 feet. It is what is<br />
-called a bascule bridge, having a drawbridge to allow the<br />
passage of masted vessels. The machinery is worked by<br />
-hydraulic power. This is a pay bridge—toll, one halfpenny.<br />
There are five bridges over the Eiver Foss in York, the first<br />
of which is the<br />
BLUE BEIDGE,<br />
'Of wood, on the New Walk, for foot passengers only, and<br />
situate just at the confluence of this river with the Ouse.<br />
The two large guns, trophies from Sebastopol, were placed<br />
liere in 1858. A short distance away from this is the
104<br />
CASTLE MILLS BEIDGE,<br />
Of great antiquity, whicli some years ago was repaired and<br />
improved.<br />
FOSS BEIDGE,<br />
Whicli connects Walmgate with Fossgate, was rebuilt in<br />
1811, the old structure dating from the time of Henry IV.<br />
LAYERTHOEPE BEIDGE,<br />
Formerly very narrow, and guarded at the city end by a<br />
postern, was pulled down and the present one erected in its<br />
place in 1829.<br />
MONK BEIDGE<br />
Is quite modern, and forms the approach from Malton,<br />
Scarborough, and the north-east districts of the county.<br />
THE BONDING WAEEHOUSES<br />
Are of brick, with stone facings, situate at the foot of<br />
Skeldergate near the new iron bridge. They were erected<br />
some three or four years ago, and have proved a very<br />
lucrative investment for the city. We understand an additional<br />
warehouse is<br />
shortly to be built.<br />
MAKKETS.<br />
The Cattle Market is just without the city waUs^<br />
on the plot of ground lying between Walmgate Bar<br />
and George Street postern. It was laid out in 1853,<br />
extends over six and a half acres, and is divided into pens<br />
for sheep and cattle by iron railings. There are also<br />
covered sheds for the sale and storage of wool. The<br />
market is held on alternate Thursdays.<br />
Butchers' Market.—St. Sampson's Square ;<br />
Saturdays.<br />
Corn Market.—Corn Exchange, King Street ;<br />
Satur-<br />
-days, from 12 to 2 p.m.<br />
General Produce Market (Butter, Eggs, Fruit, Poultry, ,<br />
Vegetables, &c.)—Parliament Street ;<br />
Saturdays.
105<br />
Hay Weighs.— -At Cattle Market and on Peasehohne<br />
Green.<br />
Pig- Market.—^Walmgate, near Foss Bridge ; Wednes<br />
days, 8 a.m. till 1 p.m. ;<br />
Saturdays, 8 a.m. till 4 p.m.<br />
Potato Market.—Peaseholme Green ;<br />
Saturdays.<br />
Wool Market.—Is held in tlie sheds at the Cattle<br />
Market, weekly during the season, commencing about the<br />
last Thursday in May and is continued till the second week<br />
in September.<br />
FAIRS.<br />
A Cattle Fair is held in the Cattle Market every fortnight<br />
(Thursday), and on Whit Monday, Lammas, Soulmas,<br />
and Martinmas Days.<br />
Pleasure Fairs are held in Parliament Street at Whitsuntide<br />
and Martinmas.<br />
Statute Hirings are held in Parliament Street at Martinmas<br />
for the hire of agricultural servants.<br />
A Horse Fair is held in Blossom Street, without Micklegate<br />
Bar, the last whole week before Christmas.<br />
MISCELLANEOUS.<br />
BATHS.<br />
Swimming.—At the foot of Marygate ; the bath is 120<br />
by 80 feet. Summer season 1st May to 30th September;<br />
open daily (except Sundays) from 6 a.m. to 9 p.m. On<br />
Tuesdays and Thursdays the bath is reserved for ladies<br />
between 10 a.m. and 1 p.m.<br />
Public Baths, in St. George's Field, on the left bank of<br />
the river Foss, opened in 1880, are in the Italian style, of<br />
red and white brick. The two devoted to swimming are each<br />
70 feet by 25 feet; there are also slipper baths, with arrangements<br />
for hot and cold water. Open :—Summer season, Ist<br />
April ending 30th September ;<br />
week-days 6 a.m. to 9 p.m.<br />
Sundays 6 to 9 a.m. Winter season, 1st October ending 31st<br />
March; week-days, 7 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Sundays, in October and<br />
March only, 7 to 9 a.m. Charges :—First class, slipper bath<br />
(warm or cold) 6d., swimming 4d.; second class, slipper bath
106<br />
(warm or cold) Sd., swimming 2d. On Wednesdays in<br />
€very week the baths are reserved for the exclusive use of<br />
ladies at the same charges.<br />
Yearsley Bridge Baths, on the Foss, under the care<br />
and protection of the Corporation, for open bathing.<br />
BANKS.<br />
National Provincial Bank of England, 1, Market<br />
Street, corner of<br />
Spurriergate.<br />
York City and County Bank, 13, Parliament Street.<br />
York and East Kiding Bank (Beckett and Co.), 45,<br />
Coney Street.<br />
York Union Bank, 16,<br />
High Ousegate, at the corner of<br />
Parliament Street.<br />
Yorkshire Bank, 30, High Ousegate, at the corner of<br />
Nessgate.<br />
Savings Bank, St. Helen's Square.<br />
Penny Bank, Merchants' Hall, Fossgate.<br />
YOKK RACES.<br />
These sports take place on Knavesmire, where the committee<br />
have erected stands and every requisite for conducting<br />
the races in the first-rate style of turf affairs.<br />
The meetings are held in May and August. There are also<br />
steeple -chases in March, or early in April. Upwards of<br />
£3,000 are annually added to the stakes by the Race Committee<br />
from their receipts.<br />
This city and neighbourhood have long been famous for<br />
this kind of diversion, being alluded to by Camden (1590).<br />
The modern races were established in 1709, and were formerly<br />
run on Clifton Ings, but, owing to some dispute, were<br />
transferred to Knavesmire.<br />
STRAYS.<br />
The freemen have the exclusive right of depasturing their<br />
cattle on the different strays belonging to the four ancient<br />
wards of the city. They are large tracts of land on each<br />
side of the suburbs, viz.<br />
Micklegate Stray.—Scarcroft (19 acres), Knavesmire<br />
(348 acres), and Hob Moor (67 acres), outside Micklegate<br />
Bar ;<br />
total, 484 acres.<br />
BooTHAM Stray, without Bootham Bar, at the end of<br />
Clarence Street (128 acres).
107<br />
Monk Stray, without Monk Bar, on the Malton Eoad<br />
{134 acres).<br />
Walmgate Stray.—Low Moor, without Walmgate Bar,<br />
on the Heslington Eoad (81 acres).<br />
These common lands act as lungs to the city, and are much<br />
used by the people for recreation and amusement.<br />
POPULATION<br />
At the last census in 1881 was, within the municipal boundary,<br />
49,377, which, with the suburbs, 10,077, makes a<br />
total of 59,454.<br />
BUEIAL GEOUNDS.<br />
The Cemetery is situate on the east of the city, the entrance<br />
being in the road leading from the Cattle Market to<br />
Pulford Eoad, and was opened in 1837. It is the property<br />
of a joint stock company of shareholders. It occupies about<br />
twelve acres, is tastefully laid out with shrubs and trees, and<br />
has several fine monuments. There is one chapel, divided<br />
for church and dissenting services. The grounds are open<br />
daily (Sundays excepted), April to October, 8 a.m. to 7<br />
p.m. ; October to April, 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.<br />
Cholera Burial Ground is outside the city walls,<br />
nearly opposite the entrance to the New Station. It was set<br />
apart in 1882 for the interment of those who died of the<br />
terrible epidemic which visited this city<br />
in that year.<br />
The Society of Friends have two burial grounds, one in<br />
Jail Lane, now closed, the other behind the Eetreat, Heslington<br />
Eoad.<br />
THE EAILWAY STATION,<br />
Situate in Thief Lane, between Lendal Bridge and Micklegate<br />
Bar, outside the Walls. It was opened June, 1877: is said<br />
to be the handsomest station in England, and covers, with its<br />
appurtenances, including goods and mineral depots and<br />
sidings, 130 acres. Its appointments are of the highest<br />
class, and it is supplied with every modern scientific improvement.<br />
Attached is a splendid hotel, capable of accommodating<br />
120 visitors, and commanding beautiful views of the<br />
river. Museum Grounds, St. Mary's Abbey, Lendal Bridge,<br />
iand the Cathedral. The plot of ground in front is tastefully<br />
laid out with flower beds and shrubbery.
108<br />
STREETS.<br />
Names and Architecture.—^Many of tlie streets of<br />
York, notwithstanding considerable recent improvements,<br />
are still very narrow and irregular. Up to within the<br />
last forty or fifty years, numerous houses with overhanging<br />
stories, through whose topmost windows people living<br />
on opposite sides of the street could easily shake hands,<br />
might be found in several localities. Of these relics of<br />
the middle ages, built of timber and plaster, scarcely<br />
any now remain. Probably the quaintest and most<br />
interesting streets to the visitor are Stonegate, Fossgate,<br />
College Street, Goodramgate, Finkle Street, Water Lane,,<br />
Walmgate, and Petergate.<br />
In and about the city are a number of large mansions,<br />
once the town houses of the nobility, when York was a<br />
fashionable city, and the centre of attraction for the<br />
north of England. Occasionally a sedan chair may even yet<br />
be seen—and two or three examples of the extinguisher for<br />
the torches, carried by the link boys before the age of gas,<br />
remain affixed to certain old residences. Bootham, Monkgate,<br />
Parliament Street (in which fairs and markets are held), St.<br />
Leonard's Place and Museum Street (both containing very<br />
fine houses), are all broad open thoroughfares of modern<br />
construction.<br />
We append some of the old names which still survive,<br />
and their origin :<br />
Bootham.—Said by Drake to have derived its name from<br />
the booths annually set up during the fair kept by the Abbot<br />
of St. Mary's ; but probably it is of more ancient orgin,<br />
dating from the time of the Romans, who had their funeral<br />
piles here—the derivation from hoeth " to burn.<br />
Coney Street, from the Saxon word " Conyng '' a king,<br />
Davygate derives its name from David le Lardiner,<br />
Keeper of the King's Yenison in the forest of Galtres, time<br />
of Henry IIL He resided in a mansion called Davy Hall.<br />
Finkle Street (sometimes called " Mucky Peg Lane ")<br />
is derived from the Danish word " Fmc/e," an angle or<br />
corner.<br />
GiLLYGATE, SO called from the Church of St. Giles, which<br />
formerly stood there.
,<br />
JuBBERG-ATE,<br />
,<br />
Knavesmire<br />
,<br />
Spurriergate,<br />
:<br />
Staiths<br />
109<br />
GoODKAMGATE, named after Gutliram or Oodram, a<br />
Danish chief who resided there in Alfred the Great's time.<br />
Jewbury, so called from being used by the Jews as a<br />
burial place, dating from Henry II. 's time.<br />
the principal place of residence for the<br />
Jews in the middle ages, formerly called Jew-burgh-gate.''^<br />
is from the Anglo-Saxon Knave,' ^ a poor<br />
house-holder, and mire,^^ alluding to the watery situation—<br />
thus making it the poor man's field,<br />
Lendal, a supposed corruption of Leonardos Hill, from<br />
its nearness to the hospital of that name.<br />
Micklegate, from the Anglo-Saxon " Michel,^^ great, and<br />
" /z/^A," a port or gate, formerly called Michlelyth, the large<br />
•or spacious street.<br />
Ogleforth, formerly called Uggleforth, said by Dr.<br />
Langwith to be derived from the British word " wcAe/," denoting<br />
high, and "/)oriA," now written and pronounced<br />
"/or^/z," a gate, meaning high gate ; hence we may suppose<br />
that a principal gate or entrance to the Cathedral Close<br />
stood here.<br />
Skeldergate, from the old Dutch word Keller or<br />
Keldar,^^ a cellar or warehouse. In the busy days of York<br />
it was occupied by merchants for the purposes of trade.<br />
the street in which the makers of spurs<br />
resided.<br />
(The).—Staith is a provincial word signifying<br />
wharf. They are on each side of the river at Ouse Bridge.<br />
Stonegate, anciently called " Staynegate,^^ derived its<br />
name from the great quantity of stone carried through it<br />
during the various erections of the Cathedral.<br />
Walmgate, a corruption of Watling-gate, the name of<br />
the Roman street leading to the Humber and eastern<br />
seaports.<br />
Whip-ma-WHOP-MA-GATE, between Colliergate and Fossgate.<br />
The origin of this word is unknown, but it is<br />
supposed to have been a boundary for the public<br />
whipping of delinquents at the cart's tail from the House<br />
of Correction, then on Peaseholme Green. This name is<br />
liow discontinued.
110<br />
MANUFACTURES AND COMMERCE.<br />
The trade of York is but very limited as compared with<br />
the great centres of industry in the West Riding. It has<br />
various manufactures. Confectionery may be said to be itsstaple.<br />
Glass is largely made, as also combs, edge tools,<br />
optical and other instruments, saddlery, wire weaving.<br />
There are several large Iron Foundries, Breweries, Flour,<br />
and Saw Mills.<br />
The Railway Works employ a great number of men^<br />
Leather and drugs are largely dealt in. The city is ornamented<br />
with a good number of really handsome shops in<br />
every class of trade, which will compare very favourably<br />
with any other town in the county.<br />
THE HOTELS<br />
Of York are numerous, and sustain well the character of the<br />
city, being scrupulously clean, liberal, and most reasonable<br />
in their charges.<br />
CLUBS.<br />
Yorkshire (County Gentlemen) Club, Lendal Bridge.<br />
EstabHshed 1839; members, 400; proprietary.<br />
York Club (Professional City Gentlemen), Blake Street..<br />
Established about 1820 ;<br />
members, 75.<br />
City Club (City Tradesmen), Friendly Societies' Hall,<br />
Castlegate. Established 1877; members, 100.<br />
Temperance Club (Social), Feasegate. Established 1878;<br />
members, 100 ; limited company.<br />
Conservative Club (Political), Coney Street, behind<br />
Leak and Thorp's drapery warehouse. Established 1881<br />
members, 600; proprietary.<br />
Liberal Club (Political), Castlegate. Established 1879<br />
about 180 members ; limited company.<br />
PLEASURE BOATS.<br />
Amongst the recreations of the city there are pleasure<br />
boats of every description let out for hire by the hour, whick<br />
can be rowed either up or down the river ;<br />
and during the<br />
summer months vast numbers of visitors, excursionists,,<br />
The<br />
and citizens avail themselves of this enjoyable exercise.<br />
boats can be obtained at the landing places of Lendal, Eling's-<br />
Staith, and Clementhorpe.
Ill<br />
Steamers also, conveying pleasure parties, school children,,<br />
and workmen's anniversary trips, ply daily in summer between<br />
Lendal Bridge and Newton-upon-Ouse, calling at Poppleton,.<br />
Nun Monkton, &c. ; and between King's Staith and Naburn,<br />
calling at the charming village of Bishopthorp e.<br />
KEWSPAPEES.<br />
The " York Herald " is Liberal in politics, and was<br />
estabhshed in 1790, as a weekly paper, the first number<br />
appearing on Saturday, the 2nd of January, in that year.<br />
It was purchased by Mr. William Hargrove in 1813. The<br />
Herald originally consisted of four small pages, which from<br />
time to time were enlarged, till in March, 1843, it was issued<br />
as an eight-page paper. The York Couranty which was<br />
started in August, 1725, and purchased by Mr. Hargrove in<br />
1817, was incorporated with jthe Herald in 1848, after an.<br />
existence of 123 years. In 1855, Mr. Hargrove's two sons<br />
were admitted partners, and the paper was at once enlarged<br />
to twelve pages. Mr. Hargrove, sen., died in 1862, after<br />
a life devoted to the interests of the city. The Yorkshire<br />
Advertiser, another local paper of some years' existence, was<br />
purchased by Messrs. Hargrove in 1871, and incorporated<br />
with the Herald; and, in 1874, the Yorkshire Telegraphy<br />
which had been established in 1869, was also incorporated<br />
with the Herald, In consequence of the great increase in its^<br />
advertisements, the size of the Herald has subsequently<br />
expanded to sixteen pages, and, in 1870, the price wasreduced<br />
from 3d. to 2d., which resulted in a large augmentation<br />
of its circulation. At the close of 1873, Mr. A.<br />
Hargrove retired ;<br />
and Mr. W. W. Hargrove, in conjunction<br />
with some of the principal noblemen and gentlemen of the<br />
county, formed it into a Limited Liability Company, and, in<br />
January, 1874, it was issued as a daily paper. The Herald<br />
is edited with great abihty, whilst the strictest attention,<br />
is paid to commercial, agricultural, sporting, and district<br />
news. The arrangement for early foreign telegrams and the<br />
parliamentary debates are very complete. In short, the<br />
Herald is conducted with great enterprise, the object being<br />
to maintain its position in the foremost rank of the provincial<br />
daily press. As an advertising medium, it is unsurpassed<br />
and its circulation is one of the largest in the provinces,
112<br />
jfco provide for which it is printed on a Prestonian Web<br />
Printing Perfecting Machine, at the rate of 12,000 an hour.<br />
The price of the daily " Herald " is one penny, and the<br />
weekly edition twopence. The offices are at No. 9, Coney<br />
Street.<br />
The " Yorkshire Gazette " commenced its career on<br />
the 23rd of April, 1819. Its first editor was Mr. F. Sharp,<br />
and its publisher Mr. John Wolstenholme. Its proprietary<br />
has always comprised many influential gentlemen of the<br />
Conservative party, among them being several leading<br />
members of the legal profession. The paper was established<br />
to uphold and support constitutional principles in the city<br />
and county of York. Its first editor was soon removed, and<br />
was succeeded by Mr. Philip Francis Sydney, who afterwards<br />
became proprietor of the Yorkshire Observer. He was followed<br />
by Mr. William Cooke Stafford, who was editor from<br />
1821 to 1834, when he purchased and became proprietor of<br />
the York Chronicle. In the meantime, in 1828, Mr. Wolstenholme<br />
retired from the duties of publisher, and was<br />
succeeded by Mr, Henry Bellerby, who remained publisher<br />
until 1851. Mr. Christopher Kemplay was editor from<br />
1834 to 1839, when he became proprietor of the Leeds<br />
Intelligencer. Mr. J. L. Foster—who had been brought up<br />
in the office from 1823, and had acted as sub-editor and<br />
reporter—succeeded Mr. Kemplay as editor, and in 1851 he<br />
also became publisher and managing proprietor in succession<br />
to Mr. H. Bellerby. During its long and successful career<br />
the Yorkshire Gazette has been distinguished for its uniform<br />
and consistent course of policy. It has been the firm<br />
advocate of Conservative principles, possessing the confidence<br />
of its party, and having a large circulation throughout the<br />
county among the wealthier and more influential classes<br />
of society. It has always been in the front in defence of the<br />
EstabHshed Church, and is a valuable authority on Church<br />
matters. Its law reports have been distinguished for their<br />
accuracy. Agriculture has ever been an interest which<br />
claimed its advocacy ; and as a Yorkshire journal it has paid<br />
deserved attention to sporting events. It is published every<br />
Saturday, price 2d., and is the largest and most influential<br />
weekly Conservative paper in the north of England. The<br />
offices are at No. 15, High Ousegate.
113<br />
The "Yorkshire Chronicle," is a paper of independent<br />
Liberal principles, and has a very large circulation<br />
in the agricultural districts and in the city of York.<br />
It was established about thirty years ago by Mr. John<br />
Bell, as the EicJimond and Ripon Chronicle^ and though<br />
Tinder a different proprietary at present, it still holds its first<br />
position in the county. Some years ago it was brought to<br />
York for the advantage of a more convenient centre, and it<br />
has become a city as well as a country organ of opinion. It<br />
is pubhshed every Saturday, at Id. The office is at No. 4,,<br />
Castlegate.<br />
TICINITY, AND PLACES OF INTEREST.<br />
PEOMENADES.<br />
The Esplanade runs along the right margin of the river<br />
from Lendal Bridge to Clifton Scope, about one mile in<br />
length. It is in places planted with trees, has seats here<br />
and there, and forms a very pleasant promenade close<br />
to the city. A boat-house of one of the rowing societies<br />
is placed a short distance beyond the Scarborough railway<br />
bridge.<br />
The New Walk commences at St. George's Field, and<br />
crossing the Blue Bridge, continues along the left bank<br />
of the river, which is overshadowed by stately elms for<br />
almost a mile. The trees were planted in 1733-4 by the<br />
Corporation. Midway between the Blue Bridge and the<br />
end of the Walk is a spring well, remarkable for its<br />
clearness and certain medicinal properties. This is a<br />
charming avenue, and is certainly the pleasantest promenade<br />
the citizens possess. Proceeding onward across<br />
the fields, and past the old mortuary (formerly parish)<br />
church, we arri\^e at the village of Fulford.<br />
Within easy walking distance from the city are the<br />
following<br />
I
114<br />
VILLAGES.<br />
AC0MB, pleasantly situated, about two and a-lialf miles<br />
from York, is approached through Micklegate Bar and Holgate<br />
Lane, and is much frequented by invalids. On the way<br />
the pedestrian will pass on his left the house occupied by<br />
Lindley Murray, the grammarian ; to the right Severus' Hill<br />
and further .on to the left the ornamental nursery grounds of<br />
Messrs. Backhouse & Son, which are well worth a visit. They<br />
contain a remarkable piece of landscape gardening in the<br />
shape of an Alpine grotto, with ferneries, orchid house, and<br />
rare exotics of all descriptions.<br />
St. Stephen's Church is a plain semi- Gothic building of<br />
stone, erected in the early part of this<br />
century, consisting of<br />
nave, small chancel with open timbered roof, short transepts,<br />
and three galleries. There are two bells in the low tower,<br />
on which a somewhat stunted spire is built. The principal<br />
attraction of the church is its position; standing on high<br />
ground surrounded by trees, above which its spire rises and<br />
may be seen from a great distance. There are several monuments<br />
in the church, and two ancient carved chairs near the<br />
communion table.<br />
BISHOPTHORPE, about three miles south of the city,<br />
on the right bank of the Ouse, is the residence of the<br />
Archbishops of York. The palace is an irregular building,<br />
purchased originally by Archbishop Walter De Grey in the<br />
13th century, and approached through a gateway with<br />
crocketed turrets, erected by Archbishop Drummond about<br />
1770, out of stone taken from the ruins of Cawood Castle,<br />
another palace. Archbishop Drummond also erected the<br />
central block of buildings in the Debased Gothic of his time<br />
which now forms the most prominent feature of the house.<br />
There are several fine rooms, the principal being the dining<br />
room, on the walls of which are hung portraits of the<br />
prelates who have filled this see since the Reformation.<br />
The Chapel, a good specimen of Early English^ was built<br />
by Walter De Grey. Archbishop Scrope's mock trial took<br />
place here in 1405. A stately row of poplars lines the<br />
village street.
115<br />
St. Andrew's Church is a small building near the Palace<br />
Perpendicular, Has nave, two small transepts, chancel, and<br />
gallery. The east window of stained glass is said to have<br />
been brought from the old palace at Cawood. On the north<br />
side of the chancel is the Archbishop's throne. There is one<br />
bell.<br />
CLIFTON is about one mile distant from Bootham Bar.<br />
Overlooking the village green is the Church of St. Philip<br />
and St. James. It was erected in 1857 ;<br />
has nave, transepts,<br />
chancel, and tower, with belfry containing six bells. Early<br />
English in style, with open timber roof.<br />
About half a mile beyond is the North and East<br />
EiDiNGS Asylum for pauper lunatics, ^opened in 1847. It<br />
is a large, handsome building, in the Elizabethan style, and<br />
stands in a garden of thirty acres, attached to which is a<br />
grazing farm of upwards of fifty acres. The patients, about<br />
three hundred in number, are extensively employed in<br />
various handicrafts.<br />
There is a chapel connected with the establishment, where<br />
divine service is held on Sundays and Wednesdays. (See<br />
page 87.)<br />
DRINGHOUSES, about one mile and a half south of York,<br />
pleasantly situated beyond Knavesmire, with beautiful church<br />
dedicated to St. Edmund the Confessor. It has nave, chancel,<br />
and small bell turret containing two bells, open timber roof,<br />
oak furniture, handsome reredos and altar ;<br />
all the windows<br />
are of stained glass. Early English; will accommodate<br />
about 300.<br />
ESCRICK, a large village six miles to the south-east. The<br />
church is a gem of architectural work, and worth a<br />
lengthened inspection. Escrick Park, the seat of Lord<br />
Wenlock, is close to the village.<br />
FULFORD, about one and a half miles from York, near the<br />
Ouse. Here, in 1066, Earls Morcar and Edwin were defeated<br />
by the Norwegian chiefs, Harold, Hardrada, and Tosti.<br />
St. Oswald's Church was erected in 1866 at a cost of about<br />
d6 6000, raised by subscription. Early English in style and<br />
has nave, aisles, transepts, chancel, vestry, clock tower, with,<br />
vopen bell chamber, in which is hung one bell, the lights
116<br />
being ornamented, with slender shafts of red granite. This<br />
church was partially destroyed by fire on 13th February,<br />
1877. It has since been restored at a cost of £5079, and<br />
was re-opened in 1878 for public worship.<br />
The old parish church at the bottom of Church Lane near<br />
the river is a low unpretending building of stone with brick<br />
tower, and is only used for funeral purposes.<br />
HESLINGTON, a pretty village, about two miles from York.<br />
On passing the Ketreat a charming lane leads to the Hall, a<br />
mansion in the Elizabethan style, built on three sides of a<br />
quadrangle, with the Yarburgh arms over the entrance, and<br />
figure of Diana the lawn in front. On the south front is the<br />
following inscription!— This ancient mansion was originally<br />
erected by Thomas Eymes, Esq., one of Queen Elizabeth's<br />
Council for the northern part of England, and Secretary and<br />
Keeper of Her Majesty's Seal for the said Council, a.d. 1578 ;<br />
it was restored, altered, and enlarged by Yarburgh Yarburgh,<br />
Esq., 1854." At the restoration, the old banqueting hall<br />
was preserved intact and cased in the new building ; and in<br />
the windows are fine old specimens of stained glass. The<br />
Hall contains a good collection of oil paintings, to which<br />
strangers however aie not admitted. There is a Dutch<br />
garden on the west side filled with trees of box and yew cut<br />
into quaint and peculiar shapes.<br />
St. Paul's is a new church of Earl?/ English; has nave,<br />
chancel, and tower with spire.<br />
It has one bell.<br />
HEWORTH may be classed as one of<br />
the suburbs, and is<br />
about one mile from the city.<br />
Holy Trinity Church, at the angle of Tang Hall Lane and<br />
East Parade (1869), has nave, small transepts, chancel and<br />
spire ; Ear It/ English ; will accommodate about four hundred<br />
people. The east window is of stained glass. The tower<br />
contains two bells.<br />
MAESTON, about seven miles from York on the Knaresbro''<br />
branch of the North Eastern Eailway. Near the village is<br />
Marston Moor, where the famous battle between the Koyalists<br />
and Parliamentarians was fought, July 2nd, 1644. The latter<br />
were commanded by the Earls of Manchester and Leven, Lord<br />
Fairfax, and Oliver Cromwell, Prince Rupert leading on his<br />
Cavaliers. After a fierce struggle the Prince was defeated
117<br />
with great loss. The graves of the slain are now pointed<br />
out in Wilstrop Wood, and a spot on the Moor is still called<br />
" CromwelFs Gap."<br />
OSBALDWICK, about two miles from the city on the<br />
Hull road, leading out of Walmgate Bar. There is a small<br />
church, which has recently been restored.<br />
SKELTON, about four miles to the north of York, is remarkable<br />
for its church, a small but beautiful example of<br />
Early English architecture. It is said to have been built<br />
about the time of Archbishop Walter de Grey (13th century)<br />
of materials which remained after the finishing of the south<br />
transept of the Minster. It is Avell known amongst students<br />
of ecclesiastical architecture.<br />
THE BURTON PICTUEE GALLERY.<br />
Between two and three miles from York on the Boro'bridge<br />
road is Poppleton Villa, the residence of Mr. Burton, an<br />
ardent admirer and connoisseur of the fine arts. His gallery<br />
contains some good examples of Stansfield, Ward, Linnel,<br />
Cooper, Frank Stone, Faed, J. Phillip, R.A., W. Miiller,<br />
Sir John Gilbert, R.A., and many others of the modern<br />
English and Continental schools. The admission fee is one<br />
shilling. We understand that the receipts are given to local<br />
charities.<br />
VICINITY.<br />
Although the country immediately surrounding the city,<br />
owing to its flatness, is not particularly remarkable for its<br />
natural beauty, still within a radius of thirty miles many<br />
charming spots in the vale of York may be found : there are<br />
the mansions and park-like seats of noblemen and county<br />
gentry well watered and beautifully wooded, and probably<br />
richer in historic interest than any other portion of England.<br />
We find numerous remains telling of the rude times of ancient<br />
Britain—tesselated pavements, masonry, and coins—which<br />
speak to us of the days when Imperial Rome selected Eboracum<br />
for the capital of her distant dominions; there are village<br />
churches showing traces of Anglo-Saxon and the simple style
118<br />
of the early Norman age : dotting the country side we find<br />
also ruined abbey and castle keep surrounded with a halo<br />
of mediaeval associations, to reach which one must cross<br />
memorable battle-fields on which has been decided more<br />
than once the title to England's crown.<br />
The following places are easily accessible by rail, returning<br />
the same day :<br />
Aldborough—See Boroughbridge.<br />
Ampleforth—See Coxwold.<br />
Barnard Castle, seventy miles from York by rails. Here<br />
are the remains of an old castle, near which is Greta Bridge<br />
and Rokeby.<br />
Bolton Abbey, in the Vale of the Wharfe, and near to<br />
the celebrated " Strid."<br />
Boroughbridge, about seventeen miles from York (22 by<br />
rails) . About half a mile distant are three curious monoliths,<br />
called the " devil's arrows." Quite close to the town is the<br />
village of Aldborough, the Isuriam of the Eomans, where<br />
numerous Eoman remains may be seen in the Manor House.<br />
Bramham—See Tadcaster.<br />
Byland Abbef—See Coxwold.<br />
Castle Howard, fifteen miles from York, on the Scarborough<br />
Eailway ; mansion and grounds belonging to the<br />
Earl of Carlisle; well worthy of a visit. Here is a picture<br />
gallery containing many fine specimens of the old masters<br />
amongst others, the celebrated Three Maries," by Annibale<br />
Caracci, and a unique collection of views of Venice by Canaletti.<br />
From the train may be seen the ruins of Kirkham<br />
Abbey, picturesquely situate on the Derwent.<br />
CowTHORPE—See Knaresborough.<br />
CoxvrOLD, eighteen miles distant by rails ;<br />
situate near the<br />
Hambleton Hills. Shandy Hall, the residence of Lawrence<br />
Sterne. Newburgh Park, the seat of Sir George 0. Wombwell,<br />
Bart., is a mile and a-half south of the village. Eelics<br />
of Cromwell. North are the beautiful ruins of Byland<br />
Abbey. East is the Eoman Catholic College of Ampleforth<br />
and many tumuli and earthworks supposed to be of British<br />
origin.
119<br />
DoNCASTER, thirty-two miles distant by rails; is a nice clean<br />
town, and well-known for its race-course—tlie St. Leger<br />
being run bere. Not far distant from the town are the<br />
ruins of Tickhill Castle, Eoche Abbey, and Conisborough<br />
Castle.<br />
Fountains Abbey—See Ripon.<br />
Harrogate, twenty miles from York by rails; noted for<br />
its mineral waters and the pureness of its atmosphere.<br />
Helmsley, thirty-two miles by rails. Here is Duncombe<br />
Parkj the residence of the Earl of Fevershani (recently destroyed<br />
by fire), and the remains of Helmsley Castle. About<br />
two miles distant are the beautiful ruins of Rievaulx Abbey<br />
and its matchless terrace.<br />
A few miles to the east is Kirkdale cave, in which<br />
were discovered various mammalian remains, chiefly those of<br />
the hyaena. In the village of Kirkdale is a quaint old church.<br />
Ilkley, forty-two miles by rails ;<br />
in Wharfdale. Famous<br />
for its hydropathic establishments.<br />
KiRKHAM Abbey—See Castle Howard.<br />
Knaresborough, eighteen miles from York by rails.<br />
Ruined castle overhanging the Nidd—Dropping Well — St.<br />
Robert's chapel and cave, the latter the scene of the murder<br />
by Eugene Aram, 1745.<br />
At Cowthorpe, seven miles distant,<br />
is an ancient oak, the largest tree in England, sixty feet<br />
in diameter. Plumpton, three miles distant, is noted for<br />
a number of curioiis detached rocks.<br />
Newburgh Park—See Coxwold.<br />
Plumpton—See Knaresborough.<br />
PoNTEFRACT, twenty-two miles by rails : remains of a<br />
castle, a stronghold in feudal times.<br />
Rievaulx Abbey—See Helmsley.<br />
Richmond, forty-four miles from York ; has the remains<br />
of a castle of the middle ages.<br />
About two miles distant is Easby Abbey.<br />
Ripon, thirty miles by rails ; noted for its minster. Two<br />
miles distant, at Studley Royal, are the ruins of Fountains<br />
Abbey, said to be the most beautiful in England.
120<br />
Selby, twelve miles by rails<br />
;<br />
possesses a fine abbey<br />
cburch,<br />
Scarborough, forty-two miles distant by rails, called<br />
The Queen of Watering-places."<br />
Tadcaster, about fifteen miles by rails ; was the<br />
" Calcaria " of the Romans. Two miles distant is Towton<br />
Field, the site of the battle of 1461. Four miles distant<br />
is Bramham Moor, the scene of another great battle (1408)<br />
and Bramham House, the mansion of George Lane Fox,<br />
Esq.<br />
Whitby, fifty- six miles distant by rails; a quaint old<br />
town, most picturesquely situated on the river Esk as it enters<br />
the German Ocean. The scenery in the neighbourhood is<br />
exceedii\gly wild and romantic.
THE YORKSHIRE FIRE & LIFE<br />
INSURANCE COMPANY,<br />
Established at York, 1824, and Empowered by Act of Parliament,<br />
CAPITAL-£500,000.<br />
Reserve Fund—£804,100. Annual Income—£144,154.<br />
TRUSTEES.<br />
W. H. HARRISON-BROADLEY, ESQ., M.P.<br />
SIR HARCOURT JOHNSTONE, Bart.<br />
THE RIGHT HON. LORD WENLOCK.<br />
DIRECTORS.<br />
ROBT. H. BOWER, Esq., Welham, Malton, CHAIRMAN.<br />
SIR JAMES MEEK, Kt., Middlethorpe Lodge, York,<br />
\ y.^^..^^ rHATOA/rrrM<br />
THE RT. HON. LORD WENLOCK, Escrick DEPUTY<br />
Park, f<br />
CHAIRMEN.<br />
J. SILBURN BARBER, Esq., Osbaldwick, York.<br />
J. B. BARKWORTH, Esq., Raywell, Hull.<br />
LT.-COL. BRIGGS, Catherington House, Horndean,<br />
W. H. HARRISON-BROADLEY,Esq.,M.P.,WeIton,<br />
Hull.<br />
REV. R. DRAKE, Stourmouth.<br />
EDWIN GRAY, Esq., York.<br />
WILLIAM HOTHAM, Esq., Fulford Park, York.<br />
REV. CANON JARRATT. North Cave.<br />
WM. MATTERSON, Esq.,<br />
EDWARD P. MAXSTED, Esq., Hull.<br />
M.D., York.<br />
R. W. F. MILLS, Esq., York.<br />
LT.-COL. PEASE, Hesslewood, Hull.<br />
LT.-COL. SALTMARSHE, Saltmarshe, near<br />
Howden.<br />
JOHN F. TAYLOR, Esq.,Holly Bank House, York.<br />
C. W. AVAKE, Esq., Orniathw^aite House, Keswick<br />
H. J. WARE, Esq., York.<br />
I. WHITAKER. Esq., Hessle, near Hull.<br />
SIR G. O. WOMBWELL, Bart, Newburgh Park,<br />
near Easingwold.<br />
J. P. WOOD, Esq., York,<br />
This Company has been established for more than Fifty-seven years. Ample time has therefore<br />
elapsed to test the soundness of the principles upon which it has been conducted.<br />
LIFE<br />
DEPARTMENT.<br />
This Office combines every substantial advantage offerpd by any Assnrance Company.<br />
The Eates of Premiums, with and without profits, are moderate. The Bonuses granted<br />
are unusually large. Eighty per cent, of the profits divided among the insured, who are<br />
under no liability for partnership. No charge made for Stamps or Medical Fees.<br />
DEPARTMENT.<br />
FIRE<br />
The Eate of Premium for Private Dwelling Houses, built of Brick or Stone, and Tiled<br />
or Slated, Is. 6d. per cent. Insurances are taken on the most moderate terms, in accordance<br />
with the nature of the risk.<br />
Losses caused by the Explosion of Gas are covered by this Company.<br />
FARMING STOCK INSURED AT 5s. PER CENT.<br />
In this Department the Company ranks highest amongst all the Provincial Offices, with<br />
one exception, the amount insured last year being ^4,090,440.<br />
No Extra Charge made for the use of a Steam Thrashing Machine.<br />
Losses by Lightning made good<br />
Prospectuses, Tables of Rates, Forms of Proposal, and every information on the subject of<br />
Fire and Life Insurance business can be obtained on application at the Head Office, York,<br />
or to any of its Agents throughout the United Kingdom.<br />
AUDITORS—WM. PHILLIPS, Esq. THOS. F, WOOD, Esq. GEORGE BROWN, Esq.<br />
JOHN R. HILL, Esq.<br />
BAIVKERS-YORK UNION BANKING COMPANY, YORK.<br />
MEI>I€AL EXAMINER—W. H. JALLAND, Esq., F.R.C.S., YORK.<br />
Sl>M€lTORS-MESSRS. W. & E. GRAY.<br />
SECRETARY & tiENERAl MANAGER-F. L. MAWDESLEY.<br />
ACTUARY—W. L. NEWMAN.<br />
HEAB OFFICE-ST. HELEN'S SQUARE, YORK.
TO H.M. WAR<br />
ROBERT J.<br />
i-^r^m^^ DEPARTMENT.<br />
FARMER,<br />
OPTICIAN,<br />
51, CONEY STEEET, YORK.<br />
MATHEMATICAL, PHYSICAL, & METEOROLOGICAL<br />
INSTRUMENT MANUFACTURER.<br />
SPECTACLES AND EYE-GLASSES<br />
Made and Repaired on the Premises,<br />
accurately prepared.<br />
(LATE M. KLEISEE & 00.,)<br />
WATCH AND CLOCK MAKERS,<br />
JEWELLERS, &c.,<br />
Corner of Little Stonegate,<br />
WEDDING AND<br />
BAHOMETEBS, SPECTACLES,<br />
YORK.<br />
FANCY RINGS.<br />
8sc.<br />
Clocks, Watches, and Jewellery<br />
Cleaned and Repaired.
FURNITURE<br />
HUNTEE & SMALLPAGE,<br />
CABINETMAKERS,<br />
Upholsterers, Carpet Warehous?:men,<br />
aElTEEAL FUEITISIXEBS,<br />
OAEVERS, GILDERS, & GLASS MERCHANTS,<br />
Invite inspection of tlieir Stock of<br />
CABINET FURNITURE<br />
Of every description. The Drawingroom Furniture includes some elegant<br />
Suites variously upholstered, Lounge Chairs, Cabinets, Chimney Glasses,<br />
Over Mantels, Etageres, Whatnots, Brackets, «fec.<br />
-^tc D I N I N G R O O M S U I T E S ^Ic^<br />
In Oak, American Walnut, Mahogany, &c.<br />
LIBRARY AND HALL FURNITURE.<br />
BEDROOM SUITES.<br />
Special attention is invited to the number of Suites in different woods,<br />
and in the most approved designs, from Eight to Sixty Guineas, in addition<br />
to the ordinary extensive Stock of Japanned, Birch, and Mahogany<br />
Bedroom Furniture.<br />
Inexpensive Furnituke adapted for Sittingrooms, Servants'<br />
Bedrooms, &c.<br />
BRASS & IRON BEDSTEADS, AND BEDDING.<br />
In great variety from the best makers. Oriental and Sheepskin Hearthrugs,<br />
Linoleums, Stair Rods, &c.<br />
The newest Tapestry, Lace, and other Curtains ;<br />
Reversible Cretonnes ; and<br />
a choice selection of New Fabrics for upholstery purposes.<br />
CORNICES, CORNICE POLES, 8c<br />
FURNISHING IRONMONGERY.<br />
CARVING AND GILDING.<br />
Orders in this Department carefully executed upon the Premises by<br />
Experienced Workmen. A large and choice Stock of Mouldings adapted<br />
for framing every kind of picture. Re-gilding and re-silvering. Plate<br />
and Sheet Glass, and Silvered Plates.<br />
ALL GOODS DELIVERED CARRIAGE FREE.<br />
CITY FURNISHING ESTABLISHMENT,<br />
42 & 43, GOODRAMGATE, YORK.
Yorkshire Fine Art & Industrial Exhibition, 1879.<br />
CONTINUED<br />
SUCCESS<br />
OF<br />
WHEELER AND WILSON^S<br />
SEWING MACHINES.<br />
The HIGHEST AWARD (a Medal) for the superiority of<br />
design and general applicability of their Sewing Machines.<br />
Also obtained the only "GRAND PRIZE" awarded to<br />
Sewing Machines at the late Paris Exhibition.<br />
THE NEW HAND MACHINE, the most perfect and efficient<br />
yet produced, with Cover complete ... ... £5 5s.<br />
TREADLE MACHINES, from<br />
£5 lOs.<br />
Machines supplied on the Hire System, S/6 per week.<br />
YORK DEPOT: 21, SPURRIERGATE.<br />
Prospectuses sent Post Free.
B. JEFFERSON,<br />
AND<br />
GENERAL WAREHOUSEMAN,<br />
THE<br />
LONDON, BIRMINGHAM,<br />
AND SHEFFIELD<br />
MANCHESTER,<br />
WAREHOUSE,<br />
21, FOSSGATE, YORK.<br />
Sole Manufacturer of<br />
CELEBRATED ORIGINAL ROYAL YORK<br />
BUTTE R-SCOTGH,<br />
'<br />
AS SUPPLIED TO THEIK<br />
ROYAL HIGHNESSES THE PBINOE & PmOESS OP WALES-,<br />
H.E.H.<br />
ALSO TO<br />
THE DUEE OF OAMBEIDGE.
ALVARA HUMPHREY,<br />
ENGLISH AND FOEEIGN<br />
11 and 12, Church Street and King's Square,<br />
YOKK.<br />
N.B.—A. H. begs to inform the public generally<br />
and visitors to York that he has always a large and<br />
well-assorted stock of YOEK HAMS, to which he<br />
respectfully solicits inspection.<br />
NOTE THE ABOVE ADDRES&<br />
No connection with Stalls or Branch Establishments.
CITY<br />
BEEWEEY, YOEK.<br />
13) ej<br />
Id<br />
WINE AND SPIRIT IMPORTERS,<br />
BEANCH ESTABLISHMENT<br />
TO<br />
CITY BREWERY: SPURRIERCIATE, TORE.<br />
BRETT<br />
BROTHERS'<br />
CAPABILITIES AS<br />
WINE AND SPIEIT MERCHANTS<br />
MUST EVER REMAIN UNKNOWN TO YOU<br />
BOTTLED ALES & STOUT.<br />
POEEIGN & ENGLISH LIQUEUES.<br />
All Brands of CHAMPAGNE, from 24/- per doz.:<br />
And every class of WINE & SPIEITS, at Co-operative Prices for Cash.<br />
Remittance with Order, or reference, will claim our special notice.<br />
ONLY SHIPPEES OF OLARETAIEE, at 15/- per doz.<br />
AGENTS FoF^Wrls "OP^^<br />
Splendid tonic wine, highly esteemed througliout Europe for its refreshing<br />
and restorati\re properties ; recommended by many physicians for<br />
giving tone to the muscular and nervous systems, restoring the appetite<br />
and digestion, and improving the general health. In Champagne Quarts,<br />
2/6 per bottle. Please apply for Circulars to<br />
BRETT BROTHERS, YORK.
GETTY RESEARCH INSTITUTE<br />
3 3125 01451 7557