Issue7

i hi i 

10 

20 

10 

The Many Colours of PHUKET 

A Phuket to Ride 

If you can tear yourself away from Phuket’s stunning 

beaches, hit the road and discover the many charms 

and attractions on Thailand’s largest island. 

30 

The Vegetarian Festival that’s a cultural feast 

Phuket’s renowned Vegetarian Festival features generous 

portions of food, culture and history, served annually. 

Classical heritage meets beachfront luxury 

With its inspired design, the newly-opened Centara 

Grand Beach Resort Phuket is in a class by itself. 

Quality meets Value in the Heart of Phuket 

The new Centra Ashlee Hotel Patong marks the 

debut of the newest addition to the Centara family 

of hotel and resort brands. 

32 

30 Fairways of Green, Oceans of Blue 

One of the world’s best beach resort destinations, 

Boracay is known for powder white sand, clear blue 

sea, and the new Centara Grand Beach Resort and Spa 

Boracay—Centara’s first resort in the Philippines. 

32 Getaways made easy in Chiang Mai 

Khum Phaya Resort and Spa Chiang Mai—the latest 

addition to the Centara Boutique Collection—is the 

5-star spa retreat with the luxury of convenience.

34 36 

34 Giving Back to the Community 

Sustainable development is the driving force behind 

Centara’s multi-faceted corporate social responsibility 

programme. 

43 

36 In Pictures: Loy Krathong 

The festival of Loy Krathong is a stunning visual 

celebration throughout the Kingdom. 

43 Tuesday Night at the Fights 

Grab your front-row seat for an authentic evening 

enjoying the traditional martial art of muay Thai. 

48 The King of Kitchenware 

Meet Alberto Alessi, the charismatic head of Alessi, 

makers of the world’s most stylish kitchen gadgets. 

54 Destinations 

Bangkok Chiang Mai Mae Sot Hua Hin 

Krabi Pattaya Phuket Samui 

48 

54 

62 Centara Hotels & Resorts 

Maps and contacts for Centara Hotels & Resorts 

in Thailand and overseas. 

In Essence is published by Central Plaza Hotel Public Company Limited and is produced for Central Plaza Hotel Public Company Limited by Oakins and Stone Limited, 

Suite 2-A, Asoke Court, 16 Sukhumvit 21 Road, Klongtoey-nua, Wattana, Bangkok 10110. Tel: +66 (0) 2261 1211 Fax: +66 (0) 2261 1213 www.oakinsandstone.com 

No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the written permission of Central Plaza Hotel Public Company Limited. 

© 2011 by Central Plaza Hotel Public Company Limited. All rights reserved.

up front 

Welcome Welcome 

Centara Grand Beach Resort & Villas Saint Simeon Vietnam 

Welcome to the latest issue of 

In Essence, the first of 2011, 

I hope you’ll draw inspiration 

from the new places, experiences and 

people featured inside. 

The Centara brand continues to grow. 

In Thailand, there are new Centara properties 

to discover in Phuket and Chiang Mai. The 

Centara Grand Beach Resort Phuket on 

Karon Beach is our first 5-star Phuket 

resort. It’s a great source of pride for us, 

and a place that’s sure to delight and 

inspire our guests. Just a few kilometres 

away, we launched our new Centra brand 

of value hotels with the opening of the 

Centra Ashlee Resort Patong. 

This issue highlights the newest addition 

to the Centara Boutique Collection, the 

Khum Phaya Resort & Spa Chiang Mai. It’s 

a true spa resort and retreat in a stunning 

nature setting, with a close-to-the-city 

location for the ultimate in convenience. 

Finally, Centara’s international presence 

continues to grow, with our first Philippines 

resort on the island of Boracay joining Centara 

properties in Egypt, India and the Maldives. 

They’ll be joined in the near future by a 

Centara hotel in Manila and our first resort 

in Vietnam. 

My colleagues and I wish you a New Year 

filled with good health, happiness and 

prosperity. We look forward to welcoming 

you back on your next Centara visit. 

Sincerely yours, 

Suthikiati Chirathivat 

Chairman of the Executive Board 

Centara Hotels & Resorts 

6 

Three new ways to enjoy 

Thailand’s top holiday spots 

New Centara properties in Chiang Mai and Phuket 

offer distinctive ways to experience two of Thailand’s 

favourite destinations. 

ravellers heading to Chiang Mai or Phuket can enjoy a diversity of holiday experiences 

with the recent addition of three new Centara properties. 

The northern city of Chiang Mai is home to the latest addition to the Centara Boutique 

Collection brand. Centara Hotels & Resorts has been selected to manage the rebranded 

Khum Phaya Resort & Spa, Centara 

Boutique Collection. 

Opened in 2009, the 5-star resort 

and spa combines traditional Lanna 

design with stunning natural beauty 

in the form of 100-year old trees, 

vast landscaped gardens, and a 

private freshwater lake—all just a 

few kilometres from the centre of 

Chiang Mai and the Mae Rim 

Valley’s many recreational and 

sightseeing attractions. 

Thailand’s largest island of Phuket 

welcomed two newly-opened 

properties—Centara’s first 5-star 

luxury resort on Phuket, and the first 

Centra branded 3-star value hotel. 

The new Centara Grand Beach 

Resort Phuket blends distinctive 

design with a true beachfront location. 

The resort’s design team took their 

inspiration from the colonial Sino- 

Portuguese architectural style 

that became a fixture of Phuket 

during the 19th century mining boom. 

The resort is the only one at Karon 

Beach set directly at the edge of the 

sand. Guests are literally steps away 

from the sun, sand and sparkling blue 

waters of the Andaman Sea. Along 

with a wide variety of room styles, the 

262-room property offers outstanding 

recreational facilities and services for 

couples and families alike. A spectacular 

water park leads right onto the beach 

and includes four separate swimming 

pools—two are for adults only, and 

one is a dedicated children’s pool. 

And the resort features Centara’s 

signature brand Kids’ Club, ensuring parents and their youngsters enjoy the resort to the fullest. 

Finally, the opening of the Centra Ashlee Hotel Patong marked the launch of the new 

Centra brand of properties that offer affordable quality accommodation in prime 

locations. The first Centra is a newly-built eight-storey property at Patong Beach featuring 

110 guestrooms with private balconies, a rooftop pool and Jacuzzi, plus an all-day 

restaurant. The hotel’s prime Patong location is 400 metres from the beach and within 

walking distance of the main shopping and leisure areas. With these new additions, Phuket 

now boasts six Centara properties.

new from centara 

Centara Spreading its Wings with 

New Destinations and New Brands 

More amazing places to discover. And more ways to 

experience the renowned Centara hospitality with its 

growing family of hotel and resort brands. 

The past year has been a whirlwind of activity at Centara. Thailand’s leading 

hospitality group continues growing its presence overseas and in Thailand. 

And its growing family of brands is offering customers even greater choice, 

from the distinctive properties of the Centara Boutique Collection to the new 

3-star Centra brand’s compelling value proposition. 

New destinations, new adventures 

White sand beaches, a championship oceanfront golf course, ancient civilization 

sights, and mountain trekking are just some of the new adventures on offer 

at Centara’s international resorts. Phuket—Thailand’s most popular resort 

destination—now boasts its first 5-star Centara resort, the just-opened Centara 

Grand Beach Resort Phuket (see the full story on page 20). 

Following the 2009 opening of the Centara Grand Island Resort & Spa Maldives— 

the first Centara resort outside Thailand—the group has added properties in India, 

Egypt, and most recently, the Philippines. 

Centara’s first Philippines resort is on the idyllic island of Boracay, a colourful 

blend of white sand beaches, blue ocean waters, and green golfing fairways. 

8 

The resort spans the entire width of the island and 

boasts three private beaches and the “Golfing Jewel 

of the Pacific”—a world-class Graham Marsh-designed 

championship golf course. Catch a preview of the 

new Centara Grand Beach Resort Boracay and its 

beautiful surroundings on page 30. 

Heading southwest over the Indian Ocean, the 

more than 1,200 tiny islands spanning 900 kilometres 

form the tropical paradise of the Maldives. Ever since 

its auspicious 2009 beginning as the first Centara 

resort outside Thailand, the Centara Grand Island 

Resort & Spa Maldives has been delighting guests 

with a paradise-on-earth experience for romantic 

couples’ getaways and unforgettable family holiday 

adventures. The resort is an ideal starting point for 

exploring the Maldives’ magnificent ocean waters, 

home to some of the world’s best scuba diving and 

snorkelling spots. 

A distinctive boutique spa experience in a stunning 

environment awaits guests of the Moksha Himalaya 

Spa Resort, Centara Boutique Collection. India’s 

Himalayan Mountains provide the backdrop for a

memorable retreat, where the focus is on 

adventure and well-being. 

Meanwhile, historic Egypt—the land of 

ancient pyramids and pharaohs—has warmly 

welcomed the new Centara Grand Beach 

Resort & Spa Sokhna. Located an hour’s 

drive from Cairo, this 5-star resort features 

outstanding modern facilities, an abundance 

of recreational activities, picturesque 

beachfront location, and Centara’s renowned 

hospitality and service quality. 

More to come . . . 

There is a lot in the pipeline as Centara 

looks to spread its wings even further in 

the overseas market. In 2011, the group 

will add a second Philippines property, the 

Centara Hotel Manila, along with a second 

Maldives resort, the Centara Giraavaru 

Resort & Spa Maldives. 

And Centara’s first property in Vietnam is 

now under development, with the opening 

There is a lot in the pipeline as 

Centara looks to spread its wings 

even further overseas.” 

of the Centara Grand Beach Resort & Villas 

Saint Simeon Vietnam planned for 2014. 

New brands join the 

Centara family 

In addition to the exciting new destinations, 

Centara continues to grow its family of 

brands, giving travellers even greater 

choice and variety in hotel and resort 

accommodations. 

The family of Centara brands serves 

the different needs and desires of Centara 

customers. Premium brand properties include 

Centara Grand, Centara Grand Residence 

& Suites, and the Centara Boutique Collection. 

Centara Residence & Suites include midmarket 

and premium properties. 

Travellers to Phuket can now experience 

the new Centra brand of hotels and resorts 

that offer affordable accommodations that 

deliver both quality and value. The Centra 

Ashlee Hotel Patong is now open. 

Three more Centra properties—in Bangkok 

and Pattaya—are nearing completion and 

will be welcoming guests towards the end 

of 2011. 

Each Centra-branded property will feature 

a restaurant outlet, a recreational activity or 

facility suited for the particular destination, 

plus a social gathering area for guests. 

9

exploring phuket 

Photo by Anusorn Taweesit 

10

A Phuket 

to ride 

by Philip Game 

Hit the road to explore 

Thailand’s largest island 

THALANG ROAD, 

the heart of historic Phuket Town 

huket is a pearl drop, dangling in the sparkling waters 

of the Andaman Sea, an arm of the Indian Ocean. If 

you can tear yourself away from the dazzling white 

beaches, there is plenty to see and do on and around this 

tropical island linked by bridge to the western coast of the 

Thai mainland. 

Phuket’s colourful history and lush natural environment, its 

hospitable people and well-developed tourism industry bring 

together the ingredients for a memorable holiday. 

What exactly does Phuket offer? Let’s start with the beaches 

and the clear blue waters, for they rank alongside the best in the 

world. Diving, sailing and water sports are major drawing 

cards. Plus bargain-basement shopping and vibrant nightlife, 

yes, but don’t miss the hidden hong lagoons of Phang Nga Bay, 

the mysterious half-buried Buddha or the stage show featuring 

30 live elephants. 

11

Cameras click 

furiously at the 

nearby shrine to the 

Hindu god Brahma, 

surrounded by many 

hundreds of wooden 

elephant figurines.” 

12 

THE VIEW FROM 

Soi Rommanee Rommani 

Four wheels 

THE SIMILAN ISLANDS 

off Phuket’s northern coast 

Often in Asia you don’t plan to get behind 

the wheel, but in Phuket, why not? Local 

taxi drivers have a habit of detouring via 

gemstone showrooms where they earn 

‘tea money’. [Okay, it can be interesting to 

tour one of these slick establishments, just 

once—but NEVER buy gemstones as a 

supposed investment]. Traffic is not onerous, 

and there’s no rush to get anywhere, except 

perhaps to and from the airport at the 

northern tip of this 810-square kilometre 

island—Thailand’s largest, roughly the size 

of Singapore. For two or more travellers 

especially, four wheels are better than two, 

and far less hazardous as well. 

Winding coastal roads weave from one 

perfect palm-fringed cove to another: Patong, 

Karon, Kata, Nai Han, Rawai, Kamala . . . 

the list goes on. There’s one within a few 

minutes’ walk of each of the six Centara 

resorts which cluster around Patong, Karon 

and Kata Beaches. Be aware that swimming 

can sometimes be dangerous during the 

May through October monsoon season, 

depending on changes in the weather. 

Look out for the red warning flags before 

taking the plunge. 

Patong to start 

Patong is the major west coast beach 

and the hub of Phuket’s tourism industry, 

especially the shopping, dining and 

entertainment scenes. These days the 

nightlife of the bustling township is better 

known than the two-kilometre beach. 

Route 4233 leads south from Patong, 

along the coast to Karon Beach with its 

perfect strand of squeaky white sand, 

unblemished by the row of resort complexes 

behind. A coral reef separates Karon from 

Kata to the south—a broad, curving beach 

sheltered by rocky promontories and therefore 

safest for swimmers. Facilities here are 

relatively low-key but cater to all tastes. 

Nai Han lookout 

There’s a fine roadside lookout on a ridge 

halfway to Nai Han Beach, which complements 

a picturesque bay near the southern tip 

of the island. A Buddhist religious retreat 

dominates the beachfront, precluding 

much of the development which clutters 

some other Phuket beaches. 

Laem Phromthep, a grassy headland 

forming the southern tip of Phuket, provides

a deservedly popular viewpoint. The lighthouse here commands spectacular 

views out to the east and southeast, and in the dry season, the distinctive 

silhouettes of the Phi Phi Islands are seen clearly. Cameras click furiously at 

the nearby shrine to the Hindu god Brahma, surrounded by many hundreds 

of wooden elephant figurines. 

Pull up at Hat Rawai for a seafood picnic lunch under the waterfront 

casuarinas, not far from the community of Chao Le or “sea gypsies”. 

Dozens of wooden longboats stand ready to take tourists on excursions 

to the forested islands just offshore. 

Water wonder 

Snorkelers can drift for hours in sheltered waters all around Phuket, whilst 

scuba diving parties venture out to the Phi Phi, Similan and Surin Islands. 

National parks conserve these forest-capped, sheer-sided crags of karst 

limestone, riddled with caves. The Phi Phi Islands, 40 kilometres from 

Phuket, form part of Krabi Province and served as the primary location for 

the movie “The Beach”, starring Leonardo DiCaprio. The Similan and 

Surin Islands fall within Phang Nga Province. 

Sea kayaking parties and Chinese junk cruises criss-cross Phang Nga 

Bay. Eco-tourism pioneer John Gray—he revels in the Thai nickname 

of Ling Yai (“Big Monkey”)—left his native California to establish John 

Gray’s Sea Canoe, which takes visitors into the hongs, sometimes by 

starlight. These tidal lagoons are often wondrous places, reached 

through tunnels which penetrate the limestone islets. 

A bustling yachtsmen’s community has grown up at Chalong Bay, as 

Phuket has become Thailand’s undisputed hub for sailing and yachting. 

Phuket Race Week and the Phuket King’s Cup Regatta are staged each 

year. Windsurfing is popular, too. 

Nai Han Beach 

Khao Phra Thaeo 

National Park 

Wat Phra Thong 

Phuket Town, 

Old Phuket 

Wat Chalong 

Chalong Pier 

WAT CHALONG, PHUKET’S 

spiritual centre 

SENSATIONAL SUNSET 

at Laem Phromthep 

Wat Chalong 

For Thais, who visit Phuket in the thousands each year, the century-old Wat 

Chalong is the spiritual centre of Phuket. Statues of past abbots are especially 

revered, particularly those who led the community in times of crisis. It is common 

for local people to light strings of Chinese firecrackers—an exuberant expression 

of gratitude for prayers answered. If you have the chance, don’t pass without 

stopping at one of Wat Chalong’s traditional country fairs. 

Chalong Pier is the departure point for many dive excursions and fishing trips, 

and for speedboats bound for offshore islands like Koh Racha Yai. Overlooking 

the bay stands a recently constructed 45-metre Big Buddha. 

History notes 

Centuries ago, Arab, Indian, Malay and Portuguese 

merchants made their way to Phuket to trade their 

wares in exchange for the island’s tin and rubber, 

and were later joined by British traders. In the 18th 

century, Hokkien Chinese miners and storekeepers 

made their mark on the town. 

Parts of the Old Town preserve much of the 

character of those times, with some of the ornate 

Sino-Portuguese shophouses now restored. 

13

Typically these were five metres wide with a projecting ‘five foot way’ to 

shade the front, but they were as much as 50 metres long with an open 

central area at the heart of the house. Three generations of Chinese would live 

under the same roof, including unmarried adult brothers and sisters. 

Old Phuket on foot 

Start out early on your walking tour of Old Phuket, ideally by 8:30 am; before 

then, you might enjoy a noodle breakfast at one of the coffee shops. 

At Nong Jote, an old-fashioned coffee house in Yaowarat Road, English 

soccer club flags hang from the rafters, behind the three Chinese household 

gods. Nearby Thalang Road was the commercial centre of old Phuket and 

a century-old herbalist, Nguan Choon Tong, still does business, alongside 

dealers in Chinese handicrafts. Also on this street, the China Inn Café 

represents a labour of love for Supat ‘Noy’ Promchan, the current owner, 

who renovated a property she had admired since early childhood. 

Off Thalang Road runs Soi Romanee, a back lane which was once a 

red-light district. The shophouse at No. 12 has been reborn as the House of 

the Beautiful Images, a café, bakery and photographic gallery supporting a 

local charity. The gallery remains modest, but the downstairs courtyard makes 

a refreshing place to chill out—literally. 

Sino-Colonial living 

Dibuk Road, directly north of Thalang Road, is lined with textile and arts 

stores, and the Dibuk Grill and Bar occupies an original shophouse. Some 

of the period public buildings nearby, including the Town Hall and the Governor’s 

During the 19th century, 

a mining boom ushered in the 

construction of many grand 

mansions in the style called 

Sino-Colonial—which the Hokkien 

Chinese knew as angmor lao or 

big house of the red-hairs.” 

ก ข ค ง จ ช 

In Thai 

A few Thai geography terms to get 

you where you’re going 

amphoe meuang = provincial capital 

(e.g. Phuket Town) 

thanon = street or road 

nam tok = waterfall 

ao = bay or cove 

hat = beach 

khao = hill or mountain 

Residence, have featured in movies like “The Killing Fields”. 

To round off your town tour, there are historic Chinese 

shrines and a 200-year old Taoist temple to visit. 

During the 19th century, a mining boom ushered in 

the construction of many grand mansions in the style 

called Sino-Colonial—which the Hokkien Chinese knew 

as angmor lao or “big house of the red-hairs”. Phra Pitak 

Chinpracha Mansion on Krabi Road is considered the 

finest of these (Baan Chinpracha at No. 98 is the only 

Sino-Colonial mansion open to the public). 

Heading north 

In the northern part of the island province, a royal wildlife 

reserve merits a visit if you’ve brought your walking 

shoes. Tropical plantations in the area produce rubber 

and nurture the crops of cashews and coconuts. At Wat 

Phra Thong, a Buddha statue appears half-buried below 

the temple—legend relates that 18th century Burmese 

invaders failed repeatedly to excavate it. These invaders 

were forced back when Phuket’s ‘Two Heroines’—the 

governor’s widow and her sister—took charge and rallied 

the islanders. 

Just north of the airport, a stretch of the island’s 

northwest coast has been set aside as Sirinath National 

Park, preserving a diversity of coral reefs and a stretch of 

Phuket’s longest and quietest beach, Hat Mai Khao. Giant 

marine turtles lay their eggs here from October onwards. 

Photo by Sarawut http://tsarawut2.multiply.com 

14

BANG PAE WATERFALL 

Refreshing waterfalls 

Away from the coast, Phuket preserves a 

number of waterfalls. If not spectacular, 

these falls are nonetheless welcome oases 

for a picnic or a refreshing dip, particularly 

if you should find yourself here during the 

wettest months. Ton Sai and Bang Pae are 

both located in Khao Phra Thaeo National 

Park, 22 kilometres north of Phuket Town. 

The park itself is Phuket’s last tract of virgin 

forest and provides a habitat for barking deer 

and various primates as well as tropical birds. 

Bang Pae is also home to the Gibbon 

Rehabilitation Centre, where the monkeys’ 

calls echo through the jungle, although human 

visitors are kept away from their cages. 

To reach Bang Pae and the National Park, 

take the east turnoff from the Heroines’ 

Monument roundabout on the island’s main 

artery, Thepkasattri Road. Turn left at the 

elephant camp that’s nine kilometres 

further ahead. 

Ton Sai (Banyan Tree) Waterfall is on the 

western side of the National Park. From 

here you can walk through the park to Bang 

Pae with a hired guide who will point out 

the fauna and flora, although you may find 

the jungle trails demanding. To reach the 

falls, turn east at Thalang’s main traffic light 

and follow the signs. 

Patong highlights 

Back at Patong, as the sun sets over the 

Andaman Sea, grown-ups gravitate towards 

the Thanon Bangla strip, crowded with outdoor 

pubs and bars, restaurants, discos and shops. 

It’s lively, unthreatening, and nothing like 

home. Amidst an explosion of light and sound, 

the hostesses keep busy enticing customers 

to buy drinks. The girls aren’t always girls, 

but making the acquaintance of Phuket’s 

katoey ladyboys should be part of the fun. 

PHUKET FANTASEA 

Don’t miss Phuket FantaSea, the 

spectacular Thai cultural theme park 

sprawling across a 140-acre site at Kamala, 

north of Patong. The Kingdom of the 

Elephants performance matches anything 

found in Las Vegas: Massive elephants 

perform on stage against a backdrop 

replicating the temples of Angkor Wat. 

Spectacular acrobatics, sound-and-light 

displays and pyrotechnics bring to life the 

heroic sagas of Thai legend. The village 

encompasses much more than the stage 

show, with carnival rides, elephant rides, 

shopping galore and the Golden Kinnaree, 

a huge buffet restaurant. 

. . . and then some 

Phuket still offers so much more that we can 

only mention in passing: Play a few rounds 

of golf at first-rate courses like Blue Canyon; 

take in a muay Thai boxing show in Phuket 

Helpful websites 

Town or at Patong; ride an elephant or go 

white-water rafting on the jungle rivers of 

Phang Nga, just north of Phuket; take an 

agro-tour to a pearl oyster farm or rubber 

plantation community. Otherwise, shop for 

cultured pearls, niello ware, pewter ware and 

batik, or better still, join a class and produce 

your own batik; supplement the retail therapy 

by pampering body and soul in one—or 

more—of Centara’s exquisite spas. 

Centara Hotels & Resorts in Phuket www.centarahotelsresorts.com/phuket.asp 

Thai Tourism 

www.tourismthailand.org 

Thai Airways offers holiday fares and packages to Phuket www.thaiair.com 

Nok Air www.nokair.com 

and AirAsia www.airasia.com offers fers value-priced 

flights to and from Phuket. 

Phuket.com Magazine offers practical information and background reading at 

www.phuket.com/magazine 

Phuket FantaSea www.phuket-fantasea.com 

Phuket Vegetarian Festival www.phuketvegetarian.com 

15

Photo by Samin4 http://www.in4holiday.com 

PAYING HOMAGE TO 

Guanyin, Goddess of Mercy 

Phuket’s Vegetarian Festival: 

Food and so much more 

No matter what your taste in food, Phuket’s renowned vegetarian festival 

is a delicious stew of culture and history, served annually. 

Deafening fireworks, raucous drums, colourful flags, floats and flowers, the 

pungent smell of Chinese herbs, not a stitch of meat in sight, and a procession 

of trance-induced young men and women, bodies and faces punctured by 

objects as diverse and bizarre as swords, mechanical tools or plant life . . . welcome to 

Phuket’s Vegetarian Festival! 

Each autumn—for nine days of the ninth month of the Chinese lunar calendar—Phuket 

Town is transformed from a crowded provincial capital to a sacred site of extremes. 

During this time, the island’s ethnic Chinese community abstains from eating meat 

and performs rituals of self-mutilation in order to placate the gods and protect the 

population from harm. This annual event, called Jia Chai in the local Hokkien dialect, 

was initiated more than 150 years ago following a deadly outbreak of an unknown 

tropical malady. 

16 

Early beginnings 

In the early 19th century, Phuket was a rural tinmining 

region covered in jungle and dominated 

by Chinese immigrants. Miners bent on making 

a better life for their family settled the area and, 

through hard work, began building prosperity for 

Thailand and, eventually, for themselves too. It 

is difficult to gauge with much accuracy the 

percentage of ethnic Chinese living on Phuket at the 

time, but the number was significant enough that 

troupes of mainland Chinese opera performers could 

justify regular trips to Phuket to entertain them.

On one such occasion, in 1825, during 

the Chinese calendar’s ninth lunar month 

(late October/early November), the community 

and the performers were all struck by an 

undefined epidemic. While scourges were 

not uncommon in the area, it was the 

presence of the performance troupe which 

initiated a tradition that literally changes the 

island’s faces and tastes each autumn from 

that time to this. 

Defeating the plague 

While community members young and old 

lay stricken, the troupe encouraged everyone 

to adhere to a strict vegetarian diet and 

convinced some to perform trance-induced 

acts of self-mutilation in order to placate two 

of the Chinese ‘Emperor Gods’—Kiew Ong 

Tai Teh and Yok Ong Sone Teh. Following 

the rituals, the epidemic passed, and the 

ethnic Chinese of Phuket enthusiastically 

embraced the practices taught by their guests. 

Today, the festival revolves around the 

island’s six Chinese temples. Streets 

surrounding these shrines become nearly 

impassable for the week, with locals coming 

and going to make offerings to the gods, 

parade-goers marching past, and yellowtrimmed 

food stalls serving all-veggie 

meals stretching out along the narrow, 

thronged streets. 

Go Teng 

The festival begins with the new moon’s 

arrival and the raising of a great pole, or Go 

Teng, at each temple. It is from this pole 

that nine gods are invited to descend at 

midnight prior to the first day’s ceremonies. 

The pole reaches a minimum height of 10 

metres and, in addition to being the medium 

from which the Chinese emperor gods 

arrive, it is also believed by some to bring 

the Hindu god Shiva, who adds spiritual 

power to the ceremonies. The festival 

concludes nine days later with merit-making 

ceremonies, and the gods are sent off in 

grand style with a huge fireworks display on 

the final night. 

Participants are expected to follow 10 

rules during the festival period: 

1 Keep your body clean 

2 Keep kitchen utensils clean, and 

use separate sets—one for those 

participating and the other for those 

not participating 

3 Wear white clothing 

4 Stay well-behaved, both physically 

and mentally 

5 Abstain from eating meat 

6 Abstain from sex 

7 Don’t drink alcohol 

8 Avoid the festival if you are in mourning 

9 Don’t participate in festival rituals if 

pregnant 

10 Don’t participate in festival rituals 

during menstruation 

Morning pageants 

Phuket’s festival is especially well-known 

for its elaborate morning pageants. These 

parades were not an original ceremonial 

element, but they have become a focal point 

for celebrants and observers alike. Some 

years after the advent of these annual rituals, 

one man volunteered to return to China in 

GUANYIN 

offers a blessing 

order to bring back sacred incense (Hiao 

Ho-Ian) and name plaques of the gods (Lian 

Tui). He returned on the seventh night of that 

year’s rites, and when news of his arrival 

began to spread, villagers marched in 

procession to Bang Niao Pier in order to 

escort him and the sacred objects safely 

back to town. 

Today, daily parades include the procession 

of nine Chinese gods. Both effigies and real 

people dressed in costume representing one 

of the idols are carried on chariots or in the 

back of one of the pick-up trucks decorated 

as parade floats. Devotees and their assistants 

march nearby, joined by a host of other 

followers dressed symbolically according to 

whichever deity they are accompanying. 

Photo by Wasin Wisaratanon 

ALL SMILES 

At The Daily Parades 

17

Photo by Kridtapoj Phongthiraprasit 

Dragons, Chinese lanterns, flowers, 

music, fireworks, incense smoke, the 

pungent smell of Chinese root herbs, 

and the delicate scent of jasmine are 

the visceral backdrop to an almost 

surreal scene.” 

Mythical Ma Song 

But the most impressive participants in the 

parades are the Ma Song. Ma Song literally 

means “entranced horse.” The term refers 

to human devotees who are said to be 

possessed by the gods. These religious 

disciples, who invite the gods to ‘enter’ 

them during the festival, are said to manifest 

various supernatural powers and can be seen 

performing all sorts of acts of self-mutilation. 

In particular, Ma Song use various, peculiar 

objects to puncture body parts—especially 

the face. This apparent self-torture ritual is 

intended to shift evil from individuals in the 

community onto themselves as a means to 

bring good fortune to all. 

There are two categories of Ma Song: 

those who suspect they are being pursued 

by bad luck and wish to eliminate it, and 

those who have been chosen by the gods 

because of their high moral character. These 

trance-induced disciples have also been 

known to walk barefoot across hot coals, 

bathe in boiling oil, and climb ladders whose 

steps come adorned with sharp blades. 

Youthful elements 

What is interesting is that most of the Ma 

Song are quite young—from mid-teens to 

mid-20s. Beside the protrusions from their 

faces, Ma Song are distinguished by their 

bare feet and ceremonial attire of brightlycoloured 

aprons stitched with gold thread 

and decorated with dragons and other 

Chinese symbols. 

Noise is a defining feature of the event. 

Fireworks explode almost continually, and a 

plenitude of drums bang incessantly in the 

belief that loud noises scare away the evil 

spirits who might otherwise be drawn to the 

rituals. Dragons, Chinese lanterns, 

flowers, music, fireworks, incense 

smoke, the pungent smell of 

Chinese root herbs, and the 

delicate scent of jasmine 

are the visceral backdrop 

to an almost surreal scene. 

I Love a Parade! 

Early one Saturday morning, on 

a narrow street of densely-packed 

shophouses stained of soot, wood 

smoke and automobile fumes, the bright 

morning sky goes unnoticed by a crowd of 

on-lookers. Also ignored are the countless 

bits of rubbish, bloody tissues, plastic cups 

and red-stained remnants of thousands of 

fireworks littering the streets. All eyes are 

now focused on the human drama unfolding 

before us. 

Past us march hundreds of Ma Song, their 

tongues, cheeks, arms and other body parts 

punctured with needles, pins, mechanical 

tools, plant life, PVC piping and other bizarre 

items. Adepts claim to feel no pain and do 

not appear to show any sign of injury. Those 

performing the most extreme acts of mutilation 

are often accompanied by one or two 

attendants whose duties range from supporting 

the ends of large, protruding objects, wiping 

sweaty brows, clearing a path for them 

to walk ahead, or otherwise assist these 

trance-induced devotees. 

Fancy a cuppa? 

Lining the parade avenue are small offering 

tables set up by residents with Chinese tea, 

flowers, incense, fruit offerings set atop 

gold pedestal trays, bowls of dried rice, and 

the requisite lantern-red trim. As various 

god-possessed Ma Song pass by, they are 

invited to pause for a small cup of tea or glass 

of water. Those who stop perform a blessing 

that may include hoots, hollers or a series of 

seemingly random poses before moving on. 

As the parade draws to a close the streets 

begin to empty, leaving only the media, 

a few stragglers, and the truly devout to 

witness its conclusion. One very old man, 

deep in concentration, lights incense for his 

altar. His pure intent and tender countenance 

are reinforced by his all-white attire—including 

full head of hair. In silent meditation, he makes 

his offering against the tail end of organised 

chaos and a receding wall of sound. 

18

grand opening 

Classical heritage 

meets luxury by the sea 

The newest addition to the Centara family is 

in a class by itself on the island of Phuket. 

radition. Luxury. Serenity. That’s what guests are discovering at 

the brand new Centara Grand Beach Resort Phuket. The 262-room 

resort, set directly on Karon Beach on Thailand’s resort island of 

Phuket, is also Centara’s first 5-star property on the island. 

Historic inspiration 

The resort’s distinctive design evokes the style that came to define the 

bygone era when burgeoning prosperity and opulence converged on 

Phuket during the 19th century. The Sino-Portuguese style came into its 

own when the island was a hub of mining 

activity. A tin mining boom was a magnet 

for the diverse mix of cultural influences 

brought to Phuket by the adventurous 

traders from Asia and Europe who set sail 

for the island to seek their fortunes. 

Today, the Sino-Portuguese architecture style retains a prominent 

presence in the traditional Chinese shophouses built in the early 

1900s that are a fixture of Phuket’s main commercial district. That 

influence can be seen in the resort’s lengthy colonnades and stucco 

trimmings, with the exterior shades of pinks, yellows and reddish 

browns accented with touches of elaborate tiling. 

With a secluded stretch of white sand beach right in front and 

lush rolling hills behind, the resort is eye-catching in design and 

scale and has all the amenities for an unforgettable holiday experience. 

On offer are a wide variety of luxurious rooms, suites and villas, extensive recreational facilities 

including four separate swimming pools, a water sports centre, the renowned SPA Cenvaree, and 

a host of dining and entertainment venues to delight every taste. 

20

Sounds of the sea 

Upon reaching the entrance to the expansive 

40-rai grounds, one is struck by the sense of 

tranquillity that envelops the resort, with the 

soothing sound of the ocean waves breaking 

against the sands of Karon Beach. 

The tranquil environment continues through 

the entryway’s immense glass doors. The front 

of the resort peers directly out to the sea, with 

the feeling of privacy enhanced by the hilly 

landscape directly behind. 

The lobby has a calm, intimate feel. 

Reception and service desks are set on either 

side of the main greeting foyer, where arriving guests are served a welcome drink. Small clusters of 

chairs provide a comfortable perch for taking in the unobstructed panorama of ocean and beach as 

the soothing sound of the lobby waterfall fills the air. 

Inspired by a rich heritage 

Arriving guests are treated to designs inspired by the charms of 

old Phuket. Shades of yellows and browns anchor the colour 

palate of the lobby, with colonial touches seen in the distinctive 

lighting and furnishings. 

“The Sino-Portuguese architecture found in Phuket’s Old Town 

was the inspiration for the design and concept of the resort”, 

noted Denis Thouvard, general manager of the resort. He added 

that the resort offers a number of elements that provide guests 

with a cultural experience during their stay, such as the dance 

performances inspired by different Asian cultures that are held 

nightly during dinner hours at The Cove restaurant. 

Activities & Recreation 

he resort delivers the best of two worlds: It’s an ideal place for a romantic 

retreat in peaceful seclusion, a place to relax and unwind with rejuvenating 

spa treatments and quiet walks on the beach. And it more than satisfies 

those seeking a more active, adventurous holiday, with an abundant array of 

recreational facilities and services to please grown-ups and children alike. 

The resort’s dedicated water sports centre offers equipment and instruction for 

snorkelling, kayaking, wind surfing and more, with friendly staff on hand to handle 

all the arrangements. 

Stefan Duesing, Centara’s group sports & leisure manager, is particularly excited 

about the resort’s swimming pool facilities: “There are four separate swimming 

pools plus a 200-metre long lazy river—it’s an enjoyable 15-minute floating 

journey from beginning to end.” The complex also features a waterfall, three 

water slides, a cave, and two diving platforms. 

The largest of the pools caters to families with children. It’s located next to 

the beach and close to the lazy river. Peace and tranquillity are the hallmark of 

the adults-only pool which is set apart in a quiet, more secluded spot. It’s a 

stunning infinity pool that’s also a prime spot to watch the beautiful sunset. 

There are two Jacuzzi pools—one for adults and one for children. 

The resort’s modern, well-equipped Fitness Centre is stocked with plenty of 

free weights, exercise bicycles, and treadmills equipped with plasma TV screens. 

And tennis fans take note: The resort has its own tennis court and a teaching 

professional on call. 

21

Just for kids 

There’s a formula for the ideal family vacation: Offer all the activities kids love most, 

and give parents enough private time to enjoy each other’s company. That’s precisely 

what Centara had in mind when it designed the resort’s Kids Club. 

Strategically located right next to the children’s swimming pool and the lazy river, 

the Kid Zone houses two distinct clubs that offer supervised activities tailored to 

different age groups. Club Safari is designed for children between the ages of 4 to 9, 

while the E-Zone is for kids and teens from 10 to 17. 

So Mum and Dad can head off for their rejuvenating spa programme worry-free, 

knowing the kids are having fun while being well looked after. The Kids Club is much 

more than a day care centre; activities include substantive educational and sporting 

programmes. Kids can take painting classes, play bingo and other games, and choose 

from an array of arts and crafts activities. Club Safari and the E-Zone offer a place 

for kids to have fun and learn in a safe, supervised setting. 

DELUXE POOL SUITE 

Romance rekindled 

While the resort offers plenty of family-friendly activities, it’s an equally great 

destination for romantic, intimate couples’ getaways. In addition to its idyllic 

beachfront setting with glorious sunsets and ocean panoramas, the resort’s 

design team took great care to include plenty of quiet areas and speciallydesigned 

facilities that enhance the feeling of privacy and seclusion. 

The resort offers guest rooms featuring private plunge pools and Jacuzzis 

located in the quietest areas, and there are dedicated adults-only recreational 

facilities such as the infinity swimming pool. SPA Cenvaree offers a unique 

menu of massage treatments and therapeutic programmes designed for 

couples, with private treatment rooms built for two. And there are many 

options for intimate dining experiences throughout the resort. 

Guest Rooms 

uests of the new Centara Grand 

Beach Resort Phuket end their 

days with the soothing sounds 

of the ocean and awake to stunning 

views of the Andaman Sea. Every room 

throughout the resort faces the sea. 

There is an abundance of choice, 

with six categories of accommodation 

among the 262 rooms, suites and villas spread across nine separate buildings, 

each featuring open-air passageways that enhance the oceanfront ambience. 

22 

Bespoke accommodations 

Along with the wide range of room types, guests can specify a particular building or 

location based on personal preference. 

“Each type of room is available in each of the buildings,” said Christian Bernkopf, 

the resort’s executive assistant manager (rooms). “This gives us the ability to offer guests 

a location that suits their needs.” For example, he said couples on a romantic getaway 

can stay in a room located in a more secluded area toward the mountain backdrop, 

while families may prefer to be closer to the main swimming pool and Kids Club. 

Accommodation categories include the resort’s deluxe rooms—deluxe ocean facing, 

premium deluxe ocean facing, spa deluxe, and deluxe pool suite. And guests desiring 

an individual private pool can choose among the luxury pool suite, one-bedroom pool 

villa, and two-bedroom pool villa.

Convenience by design 

Accented in earth tones and shades of yellow, guestroom interiors reflect a décor in 

fitting with the resort’s Sino-Portuguese design. Each room features an ocean-facing 

balcony and plenty of 5-star amenities, including high-speed wireless Internet access 

and a spacious private bathroom with an extra-deep bathtub and a heavenly rain shower. 

Bernkopf mentioned one feature getting plenty of attention: the rain showers 

featured in the premium spa deluxe rooms. The spacious shower is located out in the 

open rather than the typical corner placement and features an overhead spotlight. 

“Everyone walks in and they say Wow! as soon as they see it,” he said. 

Guests have given very positive feedback on the sheer variety of accommodation 

options. Bernkopf pointed out that guests staying in the pool villas enjoy a calibre of 

accommodation on par with very exclusive boutique properties—but with the added 

benefit of having all the facilities of a full-scale resort. 

Club Mirage 

Nearly a third of the resort’s guest accommodations are Club Mirage rooms and suites, which 

come with an array of benefits and amenities, plus access to the private Club Mirage lounge. 

The lounge caters to the discerning traveller; the lounge covers two floors, and guests 

can relax either indoors or outdoors while enjoying any of the five complimentary daily 

meal presentations, from continental breakfast, mid-morning snacks and lunch-time 

snacks, to afternoon tea and evening cocktails and canapés. Club Mirage guests can also 

partake of the complimentary laundry service for 2 pieces per room per day, complimentary 

broadband Internet access for 30 minutes per day, and Club Mirage concierge services. 

Sharing his passion for Phuket 

Despite all the hard work of opening a new resort, Denis Thouvard 

jumped at the opportunity to be general manager of the new 

Centara Grand Beach Resort Phuket. Hardly a newcomer to the 

resort island, it’s his fourth executive position at a resort on Phuket. 

He definitely knows the “ins and outs” of this popular tourist 

destination. Recently, he took a short break from a typically busy 

day to talk about Centara’s new resort with In Essence. 

What makes the Centara Grand 

Beach Resort Phuket a special place? 

First, it’s the resort’s setting and the fact 

that it’s located on Phuket’s west coast. It’s 

actually the first new resort development on 

this side of the island in the past 15 years 

that is directly on the beach, and that’s 

unlikely to happen again in the foreseeable 

future, if ever. Karon is definitely one of the 

two or three best beaches in Phuket. The 

resort is built in a corner next to a mountain, 

which provides a true feeling of seclusion. 

Second is the style. This is one of the few resorts that embodies 

the personality of Phuket with its classic Sino-Portuguese style. 

Finally, there’s the resort staff. We set out to recruit a group of 

very young people. What they may lack in experience they more 

than make up for with their eagerness to please. The staff is truly 

obsessed with making guests feel good. 

What type of traveller is the resort targeting? 

It has a special appeal to families because of the water park with the 

lazy river, the water sports facilities, plus the direct beach access. 

We also hope to attract individual travellers and couples seeking 

a romantic vacation through the accommodations with plunge pools 

and the many secluded spots such as the adult swimming pools. 

Finally, the meetings/incentive/conventions market—we have 

outstanding meeting facilities. 

What are some of the “don’t miss” things you’ve been 

recommending to guests? 

The cuisine is special and so far the feedback from guests reinforces 

this. They are very pleased with the food here. 

Another is the beach. Taking a walk on the beach is very special. 

Have you walked on the beach? The sand is so fine, it feels like snow! 

What was the most challenging part of building the resort? 

It was a real challenge to construct the nine buildings of guest rooms 

so that every room would have a sea view. Although the plot of 

land is not small—it’s 40 rai—the shape is unusual, similar to a 

horseshoe, and this presented a challenge. 

As someone who’s spent many years in Phuket, how 

would you describe it as a holiday destination? 

Phuket has been on the traveller’s map for decades. It is very much 

a part of Thailand, and Thailand is truly a special place to visit.

Wining & Dining 

he new resort offers an array of great 

options to whet appetites and quench 

thirsts. The resort has three full-service 

restaurants to ensure guests are well taken care of 

morning, noon and night, and entertaining spots 

like Luna, a rooftop bar where the cocktails are 

icy cool and the live jazz music is smokin’ hot. 

All-day dining is on offer at The 

Cove, the resort’s main restaurant. 

Along with its á la carte menus, the 

restaurant offers extensive breakfast 

and dinner buffets. The Cove is 

set right on the beachfront and 

offers guests the choice of both 

indoor and outdoor dining. 

Executive Chef Geoffrey Clark has assembled a team of chefs representing a wide spectrum 

of specialities and creative talents to deliver an outstanding variety of culinary pleasures. In 

keeping with the style of the resort, The Cove’s signature á la carte dishes include Southern 

Thai and traditional Phuket fare accented with Chinese and Portuguese influences, and the 

menu includes a number of international favourites as well. 

The Cove’s breakfast buffet offers plenty of Asian and international 

choices. The hot food areas include an egg and omelette station, 

a range of Japanese items, steaming Chinese dim sum and 

authentic Thai dishes. There’s a wide range of fresh fruits and 

juices along with plenty of breads, cereals and baked goods, 

including buttery croissants served fresh from the oven. 

The Cove is a lively spot at dinnertime, with live music and 

dance performances. The evening buffet features live cooking 

stations serving different types of Asian favourites, including 

Japanese teppanyaki, Indian tandoori, Chinese wok cooking and 

Mongolian barbeque. 

Mare is the resort’s signature restaurant serving Classical Italian cuisine 

for lunch and dinner. The lunch menu features a great selection of antipasto 

dishes, several styles of Carpaccio, freshly-made pastas, and a selection 

of traditional and exotic pizzas. 

In the evenings, Mare is a great spot to enjoy a romantic culinary 

experience with an expanded menu of specialty dishes. “The nuts and 

bolts of the restaurant are traditional—40 percent of the items on the menu people recognise,” 

said Clark. “The rest of the dishes are purely Fabrizio’s style and personality,” referring to Fabrizio 

Crocetta, the restaurant’s very creative head chef. 

Mare’s décor reflects the resort’s Sino-Portuguese design, but with a definite Italian flair. 

The air is filled with the sounds of Italian music blending perfectly with the aromas of herbs and 

spices emanating from the open kitchen. 

24

Luna is the resort’s rooftop chill-out bar and lounge, 

a spot where the live jazz music and cool ocean 

breezes make for an ideal way to cap off another 

perfect Phuket day. 

Luna is located right above Mare and features a 

large open-air terrace with lounge-style seating, plus 

an indoor bar and lounge area. There’s plenty of room to spread out, 

with seating for over 100 guests, an extensive wine list, and an eclectic 

menu of snacks and light meals to accompany your beverage of choice. 

In addition . . . 

Seafood lovers have plenty to enjoy at the Centara Grand Beach Resort Phuket, with 

a restaurant specifically for them. Located right on the beach, The Beachcomber 

specialises in fresh local seafood prepared to perfection in a custom-designed imported 

charcoal barbeque. 

During the day, guests can enjoy their favourite beverages without drying off at Splash, 

the swim-up bar serving drinks and snacks at the main pool, or at Ripples, the more 

secluded swim-up bar at the adult swimming pool. 

And pay a visit to the Lobby Lounge, where the drinks and light snacks are always served 

with stunning ocean views. 

Meetings & Events 

he world’s meeting planners consistently make Phuket one of their 

top destinations for meetings and conventions. With its superb 

Karon Beach location, excellent facilities, and 5-star amenities, 

the new Centara Grand Beach Resort Phuket is destined to become a 

“can’t miss” choice for successful meetings, conferences and group events. 

The resort’s professional team capably handles the arrangements for 

group events tailor-made to each customer’s specific needs and requirements. 

The dedicated meetings facility set in its own quiet area of the resort 

blends Sino-Portuguese design with distinctive, tasteful touches. 

Spacious facilities 

The Phuket Grand Ballroom is well-suited for large functions; at 576 square metres, 

there’s plenty of space to host over 800 guests seated theatre-style. For greater flexibility, 

the ballroom can be partitioned into two equal parts. The facility’s pre-function area has 

ample room for participants to enjoy coffee and snacks while networking among guests. 

Among the five meetings rooms, three are located next to the ballroom; two can 

accommodate up to 12 persons each in theatre-style seating, while the larger third room 

has a capacity of 24. 

The two meeting rooms on the mezzanine floor can each accommodate 15 guests 

arranged in U-shape formation. 

All meeting rooms feature the latest technology and state-of-the-art equipment including 

LCD projectors, overhead and slide projectors, multi-system VCR-TV systems and 

electronic white boards. And amenities like the group check-in areas, the dedicated 

business centre, VIP suite, and a secretariat’s room ensure that every event runs smoothly 

and professionally. 

25

SPA Cenvaree 

perfect holiday takes many shapes and forms, but most would agree that 

it’s hard to beat that wondrous feeling of rebirth and rejuvenation, when 

mind, body and spirit feel refreshed and awakened. In a nutshell, that’s 

precisely what SPA Cenvaree is all about. 

At the Centara Grand Beach Resort Phuket, the newest addition to the SPA 

Cenvaree line-up surely rates a “must visit” for any resort guest to enjoy one or 

many of the spa’s signature rejuvenating treatments, massages and therapies. 

Tucked away in a quiet corner of the resort, the SPA Cenvaree journey into bliss 

begins with the first step inside, as the soothing aroma blends with the earth tone 

décor to cast a calming sense throughout. The spa offers 10 private treatment rooms, 

each with a Portuguese name. The spa’s centre is a quiet atrium relaxation area where 

guests can unwind on one of the reclining lounges before and after their treatments. 

“The spa has been very popular among resort guests,” said 

Dusanee Songwattan, spa manager. “Many of them know SPA 

Cenvaree from visiting other Centara resorts.” 

She added that the spa offers the same signature programmes 

as other SPA Cenvaree locations, plus a new addition—a range 

of Vichy treatment programmes, where guests relax on a heated 

massage bed while a Vichy shower head delivers a soothing 

pressure massage. 

The extensive range of spa treatments 

has been created around the theme of 

awakening; the goal is to stimulate the 

senses using traditional ingredients and 

techniques, calming music and comforting 

rituals. The spa menu includes traditional 

Thai treatments and therapeutic massages, alternative 

therapies including aromatherapy, Ayurvedic treatments, hot 

stone chakra balancing treatments, and even acupuncture. 

The menu also offers a great deal of flexibility. Guests 

can come in for shorter treatments like the 45-minute 

Shirobhyanga Indian head massage, or enjoy the 

extended pampering of packages like the half-day 

Sabai Ar-rom (“A Blissful Day”) programme. This 

half-day package includes a full-body brushing, 

milk bath, aromatherapy massage, deep 

cleanse and a light meal from the healthy spa 

cuisine menu. 

Especially for Couples 

SPA Cenvaree offers a special selection of treatments designed for couples 

to enjoy together in one of the dedicated luxury spa suites. One of the 

more popular programmes for couples is Niran Nirvana 

(“Heaven for Two”). 

The three-and-a-half hours of romantic rejuvenation 

begins with steam therapy and a Vichy rain shower, 

followed by a Sea Champagne Body Contour wrap. 

The pampering continues with a deep muscle massage 

for him and aromatherapy massage for her. Finally, the 

programme concludes with the Jurlique Intense 

Recovery facial treatment. Rejuvenation complete! 

26 

Take an online video tour of the new Centara Grand Beach Resort Phuket. Log on to: 

www.centarahotelsresorts.com/cpbr/tour.asp

centra debut 

Quality meets Value 

in the Heart of Phuket 

The newly-opened Centra Ashlee Hotel Patong marks the debut of 

the newest addition to the family of Centara hotel and resort brands. 

Centara Hotels & Resorts has launched its new Centra brand of 

value-priced hotels and resorts, with the opening of the Centra 

Ashlee Hotel Patong in the heart of Phuket. The newly built hotel 

is the first of several Centra branded properties scheduled to open in 

Thailand this year—three more Centra properties in Bangkok and Pattaya 

are scheduled to begin welcoming guests towards the end of 2011. 

28 

Contemporary by design 

The 110-room, 8-storey hotel overlooks the crystal clear waters of the 

Andaman Sea and the white sands of Patong Beach. The hotel design is 

modern and contemporary. Guest rooms offer plenty of comfort, with a 

choice of king-and twin-bed accommodations along with a full-sized 

sofa bed. Each room offers 36 square metres of living space, individuallycontrolled 

air conditioning, a private bathroom with an extra-deep bathtub 

and a flat screen TV with international satellite channels. 

While value-priced, there are plenty of in-room amenities—in-room 

safe, mini-bar, refrigerator, tea & coffee making facilities, and high-speed 

Internet access. To top it all off, every guest room includes a well-furnished 

private balcony.

Convenient location 

The new Centra Ashlee Hotel Patong is in a 

prime location in the heart of the popular 

tourist area of Patong. The hotel is within 

walking distance of Patong’s popular 

commercial district, where the shopping, 

dining and entertainment options are 

virtually unlimited. 

Guests can easily set off for a leisurely 

stroll or a full day of beachfront recreation. 

Patong Beach is a mere five-minute walk, 

while nearby in the opposite direction is the 

popular Bangla Walking Street—a great 

place for a night on the town—and the 

Jung Ceylon shopping and entertainment 

complex. 

Exploring Phuket 

The hotel is a great starting point to explore 

the many attractions in and around 

Thailand’s largest island. The historic 

Phuket Town district with its well-preserved 

Sino-Portuguese heritage is reachable in 25 

minutes by car, while the Central Festival 

shopping and entertainment complex takes 

just 20 minutes, 

Kamala Beach to the north can be 

reached in about 10 minutes, or drive 

south for 10 minutes and you’ll reach Karon 

Beach. Phuket’s renowned landmark 

Phromthep Cape (Laem Phromthep) is 

a 30-minute drive from the hotel. 

Rooftop recreation 

One of the new hotel’s noteworthy features 

is its landscaped rooftop pool, which 

includes a sundeck, Jacuzzi whirlpool and 

a steam room. It’s a tranquil haven to relax 

during the day and a perfect spot to catch 

the sunset with a favourite beverage and 

snacks from the poolside bar. The hotel 

also offers a well-equipped fitness room, 

snooker and games rooms, and a children’s 

recreation centre. 

For those seeking some adventure, the 

hotel’s tour desk staff can make all the 

arrangements for adrenaline-pumping 

activities including jungle trekking, go-kart 

racing, kayaking and bungee jumping. 

The hotel is a 

great starting point 

to explore the many 

attractions in and 

around Thailand’s 

largest island.” 

Dining pleasures 

Dining at the Centra Ashlee is an experience 

that shouldn’t be missed. Mix Bistro is the 

hotel’s all-day dining venue serving a variety 

of Thai, Asian and international cuisines, in 

a contemporary, relaxed atmosphere. 

Guests can take in the picturesque 

views while dining under the stars at the 

Air Rooftop Bar & Lounge, which offers 

evening-time barbequed seafood favourites 

enjoyed with live music. Light snacks and 

drinks are available throughout the day at 

the poolside bar. 

Guests can also enjoy the privacy of 

in-room dining. The extensive menu includes 

a range of Thai, international and Asian 

selections. 

Memorable events 

The resort’s location and versatile facilities 

make it an excellent choice for combining 

business with pleasure. The hotel is well 

suited to host team-building exercises and 

themed parties on the extensive grounds. 

In addition, custom-created dinners, small 

group receptions and banquets are perfectly 

suited for the hotel’s spacious playground 

and recreation area. And for a truly unique 

experience, the hotel can reserve a secluded 

spot at the rooftop pool area for intimate 

events. 

The hotel’s team of wedding planners is 

on hand to create memorable wedding 

ceremonies and celebrations. They can 

take care of all the arrangements, from a 

variety of distinctive ideas and themes, to 

custom menus, decorations, and all-inclusive 

wedding packages. The hotel even features 

its own Wedding Studio. 

Take an online video tour of the 

new Centra Ashlee Patong Hotel. Log on to: 

www.centarahotelsresorts.com/chp/tour.asp 

29

oracay 

Fairways of green, 

oceans of blue 

The Philippine island of Boracay is a colourful blend of powder 

white sand, clear blue sea, and lush green golfing fairways. It’s 

also home to Centara’s first resort in the Philippines. 

30 

Bat Cave 

Butterfly Farm 

Hospital 

White Beach 

BORACAY 

Lapus-Lapus 

Beach 

Bulabog Beach 

Police Station 

Ferry Pier 

ometimes the loudest sound is a 

whisper. While other destinations 

clamour for attention, the Philippine 

island of Boracay quietly spends its days 

welcoming travellers to one of the world’s 

finest beach resort destinations. Boracay’s 

15-kilometre coastline is dotted with pristine 

beaches made of powdery white sand, 

turquoise ocean waters, and a full range 

of recreation and sporting activities in a 

beautiful tropical setting. 

The island is surprisingly easy to reach; 

less than an hour’s flight from Manila or 

Cebu, then a short transfer by speedboat, 

and you are there. Awaiting your arrival is 

the newest addition to the Centara Hotels 

& Resorts family, the Centara Grand Beach 

Resort and Spa Boracay. 

Centara’s first resort in the Philippines 

(formerly the Fairways & Bluewater resort) is 

truly a “destination within a destination.” It’s 

Boracay’s only 5-star property and the island’s 

largest resort, covering 127 spacious 

hectares spanning the entire width of the 

island. With space comes the luxury of 

choice: Stunning private beaches on either 

side, a championship-calibre golf course in 

between, and breathtaking views as far as 

the eye can see. 

Tee times 

At the heart of the resort is the Graham Marshdesigned 

world class 18-hole golf course. 

Novices and scratch golfers alike will marvel 

at the course’s combination of challenging 

elements and breathtaking scenery. 

The 6,600-yard, par-72 course delivers 

a golfing experience of great variety. The 

course design includes frequent elevation 

changes, challenging multi-tiered greens, 

generous fairways sprinkled with an 

assortment of bunkers and water hazards, 

and panoramic views of lush jungle terrain 

and turquoise-blue ocean waters. There’s 

nothing like nature in all her splendour to 

distract one’s attention from the occasional 

errant drive or blown birdie putt. 

The fully equipped Golf Club complex

There’s nothing like 

nature in all her splendour 

to distract one’s attention 

from the occasional errant 

drive or blown birdie putt.” 

includes a Clubhouse for members and guest 

golfers, a Pro Shop stocked with all the golf 

necessities and equipment available for 

purchase or hire, and an exclusive collection 

of resort villas for members and their guests 

to enjoy. 

Bulabog, White et al 

Filipinos are rightly proud of their idyllic 

island paradise, and that’s reflected in the 

stringent environmental preservation efforts 

in place to protect their national treasure for 

generations to come. The island’s distinctive 

beaches show firsthand the true success of 

their environmental initiatives. 

White Beach is the island’s main beach. 

It spans nearly four kilometres of the island’s 

western coastline. It’s the most popular 

tourist beach on Boracay, and there are plenty 

of interesting shops and restaurants serving 

a variety of local and international favourites. 

Bulabog Beach is on the eastern coast 

directly opposite White Beach. Bulabog 

is particularly popular with water sports 

enthusiasts who rate it a prime spot for 

windsurfing and kite boarding. 

Romance & recreation 

Boracay is one of those rare destinations 

whose size and scale are just right—small 

enough for an unhurried, romantic couples’ 

getaway, yet large enough to offer nearly 

every kind of recreational activity one could 

desire—for kids and the young-at-heart. 

The resort itself features the Atlantis 

swimming pool—at 1,100 square metres, 

it’s the largest on the island and a favourite 

family spot. The resort’s athletic field has 

plenty of space for volleyball and football 

matches, or just tossing around a Frisbee. 

Guests can also saddle up for horseback 

riding on the beach and private trails. Rev up 

for an All Terrain Vehicle (ATV) experience 

on the dedicated field and riding trails. 

And if your thirst for adventure still hasn’t 

been quenched, there’s always the resort’s 

exclusive Zipline ride. And did we mention 

the Butterfly & Bat Farm? 

Boracay’s beaches also serve as departure 

points for any number of adventurous 

pursuits on the water, including banana 

boat rides, parasailing, snorkelling, water 

skiing and windsurfing. The island offers any 

number of outstanding scuba dive spots 

to enjoy further out to sea. 

The residences 

After a day enjoying the great outdoors, 

resort guests can look forward to space 

and comfort in any of the 246 guest rooms, 

suites and villas. Accommodations range 

in size from 46-square metre standard 

rooms, to 130 square metres of space in the 

2-bedroom villas—perfect for families. Along 

with space comes plenty of comfort and 

convenience, including hi-speed broadband 

Internet service, TV with international satellite 

and movie channels, and fully stocked 

mini-bars. 

Dining pleasures 

With two outstanding restaurants within 

the resort, excellent Asian and international 

cuisine is never far away. Terraza Bar and 

Restaurant is especially popular once the sun 

sets. Terraza features Filipino and international 

favourites served al fresco, so guests can 

enjoy the stunning views of the nearby private 

beach with their food and drink. 

After a great meal, there’s the Cast Away 

Bar. Enjoy a poolside drink and conversation 

by the beach as you take in yet more 

breathtaking views of one of the world’s 

truly beautiful places. Cheers! 

Take an online video tour. Log on to: 

www.centarahotelsresorts.com/cgbp/tour.asp 

31

chiang mai 

In the heart of Chiang Mai, 

get away from it all 

Khum Phaya Resort & Spa Chiang Mai, the newest addition 

to the Centara Boutique Collection, combines the natural 

beauty and solitude of a 5-star spa retreat with the luxury 

of convenience—all the attractions of Chiang Mai and 

the Mae Rim Valley are within easy reach. 

In the middle of a hectic, stressful day, the mind wanders to 

fleeting thoughts of a respite, even just for a few days, to 

a place that will nurture the spirit, pamper the body, and 

rejuvenate the soul. As refreshing and rejuvenating as a spa 

retreat can be, there’s always been one drawback to “getting away 

from it all”—too much time and distance for the getting away part. 

Among those who know Thailand well, Chiang Mai has long 

been a favourite destination for its yin and yang blend of cosmopolitan 

city surrounded by amazing natural beauty, lush tropical scenery, hills 

and mountains, and a host of adventurous attractions. 

You can be people-watching in the heart of the city, sipping an 

espresso in an outdoor café, and 30 minutes later, you are bird 

watching in the lush green hills of the Mae Rim Valley, criss-crossing 

the terrain in a comfortable seat atop a majestic Thai elephant. 

MAE RIM VALLEY 

The nearby retreat 

Located 700 kilometres north of Bangkok—but a mere eight 

kilometres from Chiang Mai International Airport—is the newest 

addition to the distinctive hotels, resorts and vacation residences 

of the Centara Boutique Collection. As you arrive at the 5-star 

Khum Phaya Resort & Spa Chiang Mai, (formerly Prince Khum Phaya 

Resort and Spa), your eyes are drawn first to the traditional Lanna 

teak wood roofs poised atop white-washed stone columns. 

The colourful flowers amidst the 20,000 square metres of lush 

landscaped gardens are shaded by century-old trees that tower 

over the garden walkways meandering around the moats and 

canals, and finally, the freshwater lake. 

LANNA STYLE 

SPA CENVAREE 

32

SPA temptations 

Among the many compelling reasons to spend an entire holiday 

within the beautiful resort grounds, SPA Cenvaree garners top 

ranking. The spa’s design embraces the philosophy of sanus 

perqua (“healing by water”) with its natural stream flowing through 

trees and herbs. As you joyfully peruse the vast spa menu, the 

anticipation begins to build as you picture the rejuvenating transformation 

about to begin. Today’s plan: two-hour Hot Stone 

massage and Foot Spa treatment, followed by the Lanna herbal 

body scrub. Where does the time go? Body wraps tomorrow ! 

Distinctive designs 

The Lanna design extends to the spacious guestrooms, suites 

and villas, with furnishings of golden teak complemented by 

cream-coloured accents. Modern convenience is reflected in the 

32-inch flat screen TV with satellite channels and high-speed 

internet connection, plus invigorating jet bath and jet steam shower 

in the bathroom. From the private balcony, you can marvel at the 

spectacular free-form swimming pool and its adjacent poolside bar. 

The Villa Suites are the height of temptation. Their 92 square 

metres of luxurious space—replete with indulgent private spa, 

42-inch LCD TV and DVD home theatre, beautifully complemented 

by the outdoor Jacuzzi and balcony with a private garden—is 

exceeded only by the Phaya Villa Suite, a 290-square metre complex 

comprising three 1-bedroom Villa pool suites, an outdoor Jacuzzi, 

and a private swimming pool with adjacent dining room. All resort 

villas include private butler and personal housemaid service. 

Beyond the resort 

Chiang Mai and the surrounding Mae Rim Valley are home to 

some of Thailand’s most enjoyable and memorable attractions. 

And the variety is truly amazing! 

Whether you’re looking for adrenaline-packed adventures like 

river rafting and mountain biking, or the slightly more relaxed pace 

of an elephant trek or a visit to an authentic hill tribe village, the 

resort’s professionally-trained associates are available to make all 

the arrangements for a truly enjoyable holiday getaway. 

Take an online video tour. Log on to: 

www.centarahotelsresorts.com/kpc/tour.asp 

Your elephant is ready 

Enjoy a jumbo-sized Chiang Mai experience 

with Centara’s Mahout for a Day package 

G 

uests of Away Suansawan Chiang Mai, a 

Centara Boutique Collection resort, can add the 

distinctively traditional Thai experience of becoming 

a Mahout (elephant keeper). 

Centara’s Mahout for a Day package is available 

through the end of October 2011, with packages 

starting at THB 11,062 nett/single for the 3-day/ 

2-night programme. 

Guests are taken to the elephant camp site, 

where they will spend the day learning the basic 

communication and action commands they’ll put to 

good use guiding their 4-ton gentle giant through the 

scenic surroundings, performing tricks and games of 

skill, and helping with clean-up at bathing time. 

The package includes accommodation for two 

nights, a welcome dinner, daily buffet breakfast, 

transfer to and from the nearby elephant camp site, 

and the Mahout for a Day experience including lunch. 

Away Suansawan Chiang Mai, located in the 

beautiful Mae Rim Valley, offers a full range of 

recreational activities and facilities, including two 

swimming pools, spa and massage treatments, a 

fitness centre with sauna, plus a lakeside relaxation 

sala and library. 

This intimate resort has just 47 rooms and villas 

set amidst the tropical beauty of vast gardens, 

more than 1,000 trees and a freshwater lake. 

The package is not applicable to group reservations 

nor reservations for meetings, incentives, conventions, 

or exhibitions. 

For more information and to reserve the package, 

contact Centara at: 

+66 (0) 2101 1234 ext. 1 

reservations@chr.co.th 

www.centarahotelsresorts.com/package/ 

MahoutElephantDriverChiangMai.asp 

OPEN AIR LOBBY 

33

community matters 

 

 

S 

ustainable development is a phrase that isn’t taken lightly at 

Centara Hotels & Resorts. The company has been boosting 

its efforts across a range of initiatives, from environmental 

programmmes that reduce greenhouse emissions, to helping local 

communities become more energy efficient, and by joining forces with aid 

organisations to tackle important issues like preventing the trafficking of 

children and offering career training programmes for young women in poor 

Thai provinces. 

The “command centre” for these efforts is the corporate social 

responsibility (CSR) department of Centara’s parent company, the Central 

Group. In a recent interview with In Essence, Ms. Supatra Chirathivat, 

Senior Vice President for Corporate Affairs and Social Responsibility, talked 

about the growing importance of the company’s CSR programme. She 

spoke about the programme’s goals and tangible achievements and 

highlighted some of the on-going projects. 

Ms. Supatra Chirathivat 

Editor: What are the goals of the CSR programme? 

Our overall goal is to contribute to the long-term betterment of Thai society. 

“ 

The CSR programme is built around the concept of sustainable development, with 

projects in four main areas—cultural diversity, social equity, economic sufficiency 

and environmental quality. 

In the area of cultural diversity, we took part in the 

Thai Heritage Preservation Campaign to help 

restore the main hall of Wat Pathum Wanaram. 

Our recent social equity initiatives have 

provided funding for construction and 

teaching materials for a number of Thai 

schools. We’ve established disaster relief 

funds and supported sports activities by 

funding bodybuilders and table tennis 

players, assisting sports centres with their 

maintenance budgets, and sponsoring a 

mini-marathon campaign. Disaster relief funds 

assisted people severely affected by the floods in 

2010. We handed out survival bags to people in Nakon 

Ratchasima, Hat Yai, Songkla and Ayutthaya and donated 

blankets to flood victims in Thailand’s Northern and 

Northeastern regions. 

An example of economic sufficiency is 

our community development programme 

in Khon Kaen. The project empowered 

local farmers in a number of ways; it 

enabled them to grow rice twice in a 

single year, cut their harvest time in half 

(from 8 months in a year to 4 months), and helped 

them grow organic vegetables in their spare time. 

34 

In terms of environmental quality, we 

spearheaded a campaign that mobilised 

local volunteers and Central employees 

to plant trees in central Bangkok. ” 

Editor: Centara Hotels & 

Resorts joined the Green 

Globe programme in 2007. 

What is the basic premise 

of the programme, and 

what attracted Centara’s 

interest in joining? 

Green Globe is an international 

“ 

benchmarking and certification programme 

for the travel and tourism industry 

founded on the principles for sustainable 

development established by the United 

Nations Rio Earth Summit in 1992. 

Centara was keen to participate in 

the programme as it fit well with our 

desire to take an aggressive approach 

to confront the adverse effects that 

globalisation and global warming were 

having on natural resources and the 

environment. As a public company in 

the tourism industry, we recognise the 

responsibility we have to safeguard the 

environment and take steps to limit the 

release of greenhouse gases. ”

“ 

Going Green 

The company established the Centara 

Hotels & Resorts Social and Environmental 

Responsibility Policy to create a more 

measurable approach to its sustainable 

development activities. We have since 

overhauled our recycling practices, 

established targets for reducing utilities 

consumption, implemented more 

environmentally-friendly waste 

management practices, upgraded our 

lighting using sustainable energy 

technologies, and we’ve greatly 

increased the use of green and organic 

products in our hotels and resorts. ” 

Editor: How has the 

implementation progressed 

thus far? 

Centara Hotels & Resorts formed a 

“ 

partnership with EarthCheck, a 

professional worldwide international 

expert in environmental sustainability 

certification for travel and tourism 

operators. EarthCheck is the system 

which underpins our benchmarking and 

certification programmes and guides 

our EarthCheck branded certification 

standards, as well as the Green Globe 

branded certification system from 

EC3 Global. 

As a result of these partnerships, all 

Centara Grand properties are being 

upgraded to meet EarthCheck’s 

international standards of environmental 

best practices. 

In Bangkok, the Bangkok Convention 

Centre at CentralWorld has received 

the prestigious EarthCheck Silver 

Certification for two consecutive years, 

while the Centara Grand Beach Resort 

Samui is expected to receive its Silver 

Certification soon. 

The Sofitel Centara Grand Bangkok, 

Sofitel Centara Grand Resort & Villas 

Hua Hin, Centara Karon Resort Phuket, 

and the Centara Grand Beach Resort & 

Villas Krabi are participating in the international 

benchmarking process, and all 

currently hold Bronze Certification. Our 

target is for all these properties to 

achieve a minimum Silver Certification 

level by the end of 2011. ” 

All Centara Grand 

properties are being 

upgraded to meet 

EarthCheck’s international 

standards 

of environmental 

best practices.” 

Centara Grand & Bangkok Convention Centre at CentralWorld 

Sofitel Centara Grand Resort & Villas Hua Hin 

Editor: What are some of the local community 

programmes receiving support from Centara? 

We want to continue building on our already strong social involvement with 

“ 

the community. 

One of our notable projects is the partnership with ECPAT (End Child 

Prostitution, Child Pornography and Trafficking of Children for Sexual Purposes) 

begun last year. The Group has officially signed the Code of Conduct for the 

Protection of Children from Sexual Exploitation in Travel and Tourism. This code, 

drawn up by ECPAT and the World Tourism Organisation, is a set of guiding 

principles for an active policy to combat child sex tourism. ” 

Community Involvement 

“ 

Centara Grand Mirage Beach Resort Pattaya 

Centara Hotels & Resorts has joined with the United Nations Children’s Fund 

(UNICEF) to offer career opportunities in the hotel and tourism industry through 

the Youth Career Development Programme. Young women from underprivileged 

provinces, typically aged 17 to 20, are given five months of training in basic skills 

in the hotel industry. Participants in the programme have the opportunity to 

become hotel employees after they graduate. ” 

35

loy krathong 

36

Though the festival usually falls in November by the western 

calendar, Loy Krathong is celebrated during the first full moon 

of the 12th month of the Thai lunar calendar. 

This centuries-old tradition pays homage to Ganga, the ancient 

Hindu goddess of the rivers, as Thais of all ages converge upon the 

Kingdom’s flowing waterways to launch the floating krathong on its 

journey. While the more traditional krathong are built using the leaves 

and husks of the banana tree, modern-day versions come in the form 

of specially baked bread loaves—a combination of environmentally 

friendly water craft and jumbo-sized snack for the local fish. 

37

38

While Loy Krathong is celebrated throughout Thailand, local 

regions showcase their unique festival traditions. Experiencing 

Loy Krathong only once hardly scratches the surface of the festival. It’s 

well worth the effort to enjoy the holiday in a different region each year. 

39

T 

he northern city of Chiang Mai is considered the best place to 

take in the festivities. Known as the home of northern Lanna 

culture, Chiang Mai is where spectators can marvel at thousands of 

glowing paper lanterns lifting off into the air, the flickering candles inside 

propelling the balloon-like lanterns up, up and away into the moonlit sky. 

40

Further north in Tak province, young and old launch 

coconut shell krathong one after another into the 

Ping River until perhaps thousands of krathong form 

a line and continue their journey down river. 

41

muay thai 

Grab a front row seat for an up-close look at 

the traditional martial art of muay Thai. 

by Dawn Delvecchio 

43

Knockout! A left kick to the jaw 

sends one man to the canvas. 

The audience grows silent as 

the young man in blue stands 

in momentary awe over his downed 

opponent. I couldn’t help but wonder if 

the crowd surrounding me was disappointed 

at such a quick finish: no five rounds of 

action, no money to change hands following 

a gambling frenzy. On this night, during 

the third official bout at Bangkok’s oldest 

boxing arena, one young fighter finished 

his job in under a minute’s time. The 

fighter, or nak muay, seemed almost as 

stunned as his now-sleeping adversary, 

and stood there absorbing what even he 

appeared not to expect. 

Such are the risks and rewards of 

Thailand’s national sport, muay Thai. 

Considered by experts to be one of the 

most effective fighting arts on the planet, 

Thai boxing has been entertaining fans in 

Thailand and abroad for decades. 

Thailand and abroad for decades. 

Tuesday night fights 

During a recent stay in Bangkok I dedicated 

a Tuesday evening to enjoying the pugilist 

proceedings. This night’s card consisted 

of 10 bouts, including two preliminary 

44 

events and a demonstration of muay 

Thai as it was executed during the nation’s 

Ayutthaya kingdom era. 

There are as many as 60,000 nak muay 

in Thailand, with Lumpini Stadium one of 

the most popular and competitive venues. 

For fight fans, Tuesday night is the height 

of action. It is said that here, and at 

Ratchadamnoen Stadium on Thursday 

nights, the country’s finest fighters come 

to test their mettle against a worthy 

opponent. 

Originating during the pre-fire power 

centuries when the Thai and Burmese 

kingdoms fought violent territorial wars, 

muay Thai has taken the action of the 

battlefield into the sportsmanship of the 

ring. Much of the brutality has not been 

lost, though rather than wielding longhandled 

swords or hemp-wrapped fists 

dipped in broken glass, nak muay now 

brandish boxing gloves and blade-like 

shins. 

Where it all began 

It is the Burmese who originally recorded 

stories of this unique fighting form. In 1411, 

the first writings of the Thai combative 

style described its ferocity. Throughout

the centuries, there have been changes 

and modifications to this art now transformed 

to sport. Due to its sometimes 

ferocious nature, death and severe injury 

occasionally occurred, leading the Thai 

government to ban competitions in the 

1920s. Following the adoption of safety 

standards and regulations based on 

international boxing rules, muay Thai in 

its contemporary form was reintroduced 

to Thailand. 

This night’s action began with two 

preliminary bouts and just a few earlyarriving 

spectators. As one of the nation’s 

top venues, the best fighters and their 

coaches come to Bangkok from outlying 

provinces for a single night’s competition. 

Often, they bring along an underling who, 

while talented, is not yet ready for the 

big league. It is these boys who entertain 

the first group of fans as the stadium 

gradually fills. 

And the stadium did indeed fill, slowly 

and steadily as the night progressed. By 

the end of the second preliminary bout, 

the betting section, along the top tier of 

the arena, was crowded. By the end of 

the third fight, it was packed. 

Starting young 

Fighters begin their training early in life, 

and most are retired well before they 

reach the age of 30. This night’s bouts 

included boys mostly in their late teens 

and early 20s, ranging in weight from 

100 to 115 pounds (45 to 52 kg). They 

are young, well-trained, fast and powerful. 

Much like western boxing, each event 

begins with the boxer’s entry into the ring 

Considered 

by experts to be 

one of the most 

effective fighting 

arts on the planet, 

Thai boxing has 

been entertaining 

fans in Thailand 

and abroad for 

decades.” 

and introduction to the audience. There 

are red and blue corners, a referee, and 

three judges who score each round. The 

boxers wear shorts and gloves and only 

occasionally behave with the bravado of 

an American champ. From here, however, 

the picture of muay Thai diverges 

dramatically. 

Music, please 

Following the introductions, a small group 

of men in bright-green shirts situated 

beside the ring begins to play the ceremonial 

music unique to this sport. With pii (a 

small wooden flute), skin drum 

and finger cymbals, the band 

plays the trance-like tune of the ram muay, 

or fight ceremony. Every competitor is 

required to perform this ritual prior to a 

bout. A combination show of respect and 

dance, each ram muay varies according 

to its camp’s tradition. 

As the music continues, the nak muay 

take a brief moment to contemplate as 

they sit with hands in the wai position 

(a prayer-like pose which is a show of 

respect and greeting rather than a holy 

petition). What follows is a series of bows 

and symbolic gestures passed down to 

fighters from their teacher, or khru. While 

varied from boxer to boxer, these moves 

are highly stylised and express respect 

for one’s teacher, one’s supporting camp, 

and the spirit of the art. 

Ram ritual 

The fighters then rise and begin the dance, 

or ram, component of the ceremony. 

Part of the purpose of the ram is to 

demonstrate a nak muay’s agility, balance 

and grace. These dances all share basic 

elements, including a repeated series of 

movements along each of the four sides 

of the ring, and a final wai of respect as 

they return to their corner upon completion. 

From here the competition begins. 

The two competitors move to the centre 

of the ring where the referee wipes off 

each pair of gloves quickly along his 

shirt front, reaches his arm between the 

faced-off opponents and with a sharp 

gesture, commands the pair to begin 

fighting as he shouts “chok!” 

45

mid-aged men had grown to encompass 

about one-third of both the second and 

third tiers of seating. Many of these men 

were no doubt fighters themselves at one 

time. Now they enjoy the action of the 

ring from outside the ropes, closer to the 

intensive gambling that accompanies 

each event. 

This section became a madhouse of 

wagering as the night wore on. It remained 

a roiling mass of waving arms and bellowing 

voices through to the final seconds of 

the main event. While the action inside the 

ring certainly warranted such excitement, 

it was difficult at times to keep my eyes 

ringside with all the ‘upstaging’ going 

on in the stands. 

Round by round 

There is a definite pace to a muay Thai 

bout and, with a few exceptions, most 

seem to follow a basic format. Round 

The bout begins 

A bout consists of five three-minute 

rounds with two-minute breaks in between. 

Contestants are matched according to 

weight, experience and record in the 

same fashion as international boxers. 

Unlike the fisticuffs of the west, however, 

Thai-style boxers use an array of bodily 

weapons. 

Nak muay strategically punish each 

other with kicks, punches, elbows and 

knees. Strikes include shin kicks to all 

surfaces of the body, forward foot and 

knee thrusts, elbow strikes to the head 

and hooking oking or curved knees to ribs and 

46 

Not only must a fighter 

be skilled in powerful offense, 

quick defence and impeccable 

range and timing, he or she 

must also be in brilliant 

physical condition.” 

tender organs. The groin is off limits as a 

target, as is the back of the neck, but all 

else is fair game. Once a good bout gets 

going, the entertainment enthrals. I have 

been to Lumpini many times and have 

yet to be disappointed with the quantity 

and quality of pugilist action. 

The frenzy of wagering 

Lumpini Stadium is home to an array of 

drama each Tuesday, Friday and Saturday. 

The ring is the locus of activity, but it is 

by no means the only arena from which 

one is stimulated and entertained. By 

the time the officially sanctioned fights 

were underway, the betting section of 

one is slower than the rest, with single 

blows thrown more often than combinations, 

and power held back to as much as 40 

or 50 percent. The slower pace serves 

several purposes; it allows each fighter 

to assess his opponent, experiment with 

his “tools” and figure out his range. 

During round two, the action begins 

to pick up. Depending on the skill level 

of the fighters and the importance of the 

bout for their fighting careers, round two 

can see anything from a slight increase 

in activity to an all-out war. The boxers 

begin putting together combinations in 

earnest. There is action, but oftentimes 

there is a lot of, literally, “hit-or-miss”

going on as the contestants figure out 

what works, what doesn’t, and how 

close they need to be in order to 

execute effectively. 

Place your bets 

Following the second round, the betting 

in the stands accelerates. I have been 

told that the purpose of the two-minute 

breaks between each round is to accommodate 

the audience’s betting addiction. 

Perhaps there’s a grain of truth to this, 

but given the energy output required of 

these young men, I would guess they 

appreciate every one of the 120 seconds. 

Rounds three and four are the big 

rounds. Barring a knockout, it is in these 

rounds that the eventual outcome of the 

fight is often determined. The competitors, 

no longer testing each other, unleash 

their weapons with full speed and power. 

Generally, there is much more use of the 

knees and elbows (the tools Thais consider 

most deadly), and fighters dispense with 

caution and excessive defence in order 

to deliver explosive combinations. 

There is nothing dull about the third 

and fourth rounds of a good muay Thai 

bout. Not only has the ring action 

accelerated to peak pace; the gamblers 

are now behaving as if they themselves 

are in the ring (certainly their money is!). 

They yell encouragements, wave their 

arms and scream, “oyea, oyea!” for each 

knee thrust thrown into a rib or body organ. 

Betting continues as the battle see-saws 

toward one fighter, then the other. 

Deciding round 

Round five can vary depending on the 

previous rounds’ events. If it is a championship 

match, or if both fighters seem 

to be close in points accrued, the action 

will remain high. If there is a grudge 

between competitors, or if the bout is a 

rematch, this may also be the case. But 

if, as often is the case, one fighter has 

demonstrated his superior skill in the 

previous rounds, the final round may 

resemble the first: The gamblers have 

lost interest, the band’s tempo slows, 

and the fighters finish their commitment 

with a little less speed and viciousness. 

Muay Thai is a demanding sport requiring 

consistent aerobic activity interspersed 

with anaerobic blasts of action. Not only 

must a fighter be skilled in powerful 

offense, quick defence and impeccable 

range and timing, he or she must also 

be in brilliant physical condition. The 

training regimen of a Thai fighter reflects 

this need, and even amateurs who are 

taking their sport seriously train between 

15 to 25 hours a week, or more. Add to 

this the age and testosterone levels of 

the young men competing in venues 

such as Lumpini, and you’ve got a 

formula for an electrifying contest. 

Art and aggression 

For some, it is easy to judge and label 

muay Thai more violence than sport or 

art form. I have spoken to many a visitor 

to the Kingdom who refused to attend 

an evening of fights because they could 

not stomach such brutality. I understand. 

Over the years, I have grown to detest 

the kind of gratuitous violence so popular 

on television and movie screens these days. 

But there is something about muay 

Thai that I cannot dismiss on grounds of 

excessive aggression. Perhaps it is the 

superior athleticism of its practitioners, 

or its pristine and savage grace. Perhaps 

it is the true sportsmanship with which 

its practitioners engage their art. Perhaps 

it is my “insider knowledge” of a fighter’s 

experience that allows me to enjoy these 

displays of mutual physical punishment 

and strategic challenge. But perhaps it 

is the history of Thailand—a nation 

able to avoid colonisation through deft 

political strategy and fearless defence 

both—that makes me appreciate the 

fighting art that represents their fierce 

independence and historical success 

as a free people. 

47

design 

48

King of 

Kitchenware 

and Pasta 

Meet Alberto Alessi, the 

charismatic head of Alessi, 

producers of the world’s 

most stylish kitchen gadgets. 

e stands in a show kitchen tossing pasta with a meditative calm. 

In this posh Zurich shop, Alberto Alessi cooks impassively in 

front of dozens of champagne-slurping guests, who recognise 

him as the unpretentious chief of the most innovative design 

firm in the world, bar none. This is the kind of clientele that all have at least 

one Alessi product at home. 

The fourth generation to run the family firm, Alberto Alessi leads a 

company that has worked with over 200 designers, and presents 50 to 60 

new products each year. The spectrum ranges from Philippe Starck’s 

must-have, if impractical, citrus press, to vases designed by Zaha Hadid. 

Meanwhile, the godfather of Italian design slices onions. Focus on the 

obvious and maintain a critical distance, seems to be the boss’s key quality. 

His style-statement: “Alessi is proud of its misses. If we don’t experience 

failure every two or three years, it means we’re in danger.” It provides an 

exciting base for our conversation. But first, there is the small matter of the 

linguine with cherry tomatoes and white tuna. 

You’re coming straight out of the kitchen. What did you cook? 

Various pasta dishes. With a system that hasn’t been used for some, and 

that Alain Ducasse has revived. He tried to explain French cuisine to me 

two years ago—incomprehensible... Cooking can be very complex. But 

Italian home-cooked food is very simple, which suits me well. For me, the 

ingredients must be identifiable, as must the way a dish has been created. 

Thus, it’s similar to my design requirements. 

And you also test all your products in everyday use. For 

example, any set of knife, fork and spoon designs submitted 

by any designers is used in your home first. 

Where did you get that? I cannot remember ever revealing that. It was 

a young Belgian designer. And I take the prototypes home because I can 

spend more time with them. Whenever an important product is close to 

the market, I do this. I like the critical analysis, and the approach my family 

has towards products. After all, they are the first to get their hands on new 

products fresh out of the studio. 

49

SPOONS BY ALESSI 

You’ve been doing that for 40 years . . . 

Officially it’s 40 years, but I worked unpaid 

before that (laughs). 

The same procedure over and over 

again for decades — is it not boring? 

Sometimes I think that too. For myself, it is 

occasionally. But if I look at the alternatives, 

it’s still a good reason to get up in the morning. 

You could have become a chef? 

I don’t find that as exciting as design. It’s 

close—the process is comparable. One 

designs a form, and ingredients are 

brought together. 

A design concept is more complex . . . 

I don’t know whether a chef would agree, 

but I feel that way. 

The simplest things are the best? 

I see that less and less. This was an 

approach—especially after Memphis, 

certainly in the Bauhaus—but it has changed 

in recent years. There is still the ‘less is more’ 

faction: Jasper Morrison, Pierro Lissoni, 

for example. And they absolutely have an 

entitlement to that. But design is also a 

game. With colours, shapes, materials—and 

it would be a shame not to take advantage. 

It would be an artificial, self-imposed 

asceticism. And the best design should 

enrich lifestyles. This also means I can 

materialise my personal taste . . . which is 

not necessarily minimalist or reduced. 

You mentioned two great 

designers — how important is it in 

your profession to work with stars? 

First of all, it isn’t possible to start anything 

50

y thinking ‘I am a Star’, even if you are. You 

become a star because you’re very good, 

because you have a tremendous talent. I’m 

not against stars. But on a personal level I 

am against the ‘star system’, even in design. 

I have to accept that all the stars in the 

design world are extraordinary talents. And 

that’s important for me; I’m looking for the 

talent, the creative spirit, not the fame. And 

to be honest, the fame of a designer in my 

business is not as important as you like to 

think. In the end, it’s all meat. 

Zaha Hadid designed a vase for 

you and grabbed an incredible 

amount of attention. Things are 

more and more personalized — 

even sofas have names. 

In part, yes. But a star designer or architect 

doesn’t have the effect on sales you might 

imagine. This is my experience. Before Zaha 

Hadid, Philippe Starck was the designer 

that got the most media attention. He has 

done a lot for me. But when we introduced 

a product with the slogan ‘Design by Philippe 

Starck’, we still didn’t sell any more than if 

the same product had been created by an 

anonymous designer. 

This almost creates confidence in 

the consumer — in the end it’s about 

the product, not the creator. 

Quality is the Alpha and Omega. Design isn’t 

a democratic matter if you look at the process 

with a result in mind. A designer must be 

completely free from the demands of the 

market. An anarchist monarch (laughs). 

But when it comes to the final result, the 

consumer casts the deciding vote. 

Are there limits that you set with 

designers? For example, when it 

comes to budgets? 

Often. We drop five to ten percent of all 

developments for just this reason. 

At what point are you sure 

something will be produced? 

A hundred percent sure? That depends on 

the product and its development. There are 

three crucial stages from design to prototype. 

If we are at the end of the third stage, then 

I am officially sure. 

Can you explain the three steps? 

At first a design idea is presented. My 

question is always: Would it be good for 

Alessi? I ask a technician and someone 

in marketing. If we agree, we draw up a 

document we call Desiderata (‘desired’). In it 

I describe the project as it might develop, 

from materials, functionality, and design 

quality to price. It goes to my staff, engineers, 

design manager and developers. This is the 

first phase, before the prototype is made. 

Prototype development takes 6 to 12 

months, depending on complexity. Then 

this will be presented to me, including 

documentation. The document asks all kinds 

of questions: Where is the catch in use? Is 

the price right, etc? I try to analyse how 

serious the issues or problems are. 

If I decide to implement it, there will be a 

new document and we go on. Before I write 

that, internal testers check our criteria for 

the practical aspects. This is a mathematical 

formula that helps us understand and 

anticipate consumer reaction. It’s very precise. 

And very Germanic. . . 

Yes, this is also the joke we make about it. 

Even if I have the report, I can still decide 

for or against. That’s the last phase—but 

even then, a project might be stopped for 

various reasons. This happens very rarely; 

perhaps two percent of the prototypes each 

year don’t go into production. 

In design, the emotional aspect 

cannot be underestimated. Can it 

be assigned a formula? Everyone 

First of all, it 

isn’t possible to 

start anything by 

thinking ‘I am a Star’, 

even if you are. 

You become a star 

because you’re very 

good, because you 

have a tremendous 

talent.” 

hated the bottle-opener opener with 

breasts. Only you were excited 

by it, but it was a huge success. 

You listened to your instincts and 

you were right. 

Formulas are not a dogma. To understand 

how a customer reacts—you should at least 

try. The decision of the designer and me to 

bring a product to the market is ultimately 

dependent on two people. A lot of time, a 

lot of passion, and a lot of money has been 

invested. The procedures are intended to 

minimise the risk. 

51

Design isn’t a democratic matter if you 

look at the process with a result in mind. 

A designer must be completely free from 

the demands of the market.” 

THE FAMOUS ALESSI COFFEE MAKER 

going through a final test before delivery 

Will there still be an emotional spark? 

Sure. First impressions count, and I am 

someone who is very personal. Sometimes 

a designer’s personality might impress me 

enough that I seek out cooperation with 

him even if his object doesn’t thrill me. 

You have a vast network — about 

350 designers present to you each 

year without even being asked. 

Why is the network of professionals, 

journalists, and university lecturers 

that you have so important? 

You can never have too much feedback. 

Our inner circle consists of 200 designers. 

My problem is, I don’t have an answer for 

the question of who is currently the most 

important designer at Alessi. When I look 

back at the last 10 years, I can come up 

with 10 names. But I know these 10 people 

are not in a position to repeat their success 

at your fingertips. 

THE ALESSI MUSEUM 

at the factory in Crusinallo 

Is this one of the reasons you 

separated Alessi from Philippe Starck? 

There is a formula that gives us some security 

for new products; there’s no formula giving 

us security with a designer. 

Philippe Starck is like a Madonna 

of the design world — he reinvents 

his style over and over again. Even 

in the products he made for 

Alessi — isn’t that a formula? 

I know his formula, and he probably learned 

from my model. But that’s not enough for a 

designer. Starck in the last four years isn’t 

the same as 10 years ago. That’s a fact. 

In general, is there a vision where 

the aesthetic journey is leading to? 

I have no idea. I think local influences are 

becoming stronger, but where that leads . . . 

When today’s catalogues from furniture 

companies hit the market, you have the 

idea it’s Italian design, but believe me, it’s 

very French. A characteristic of Italian design 

is that it preserves local aesthetics. And a 

principal characteristic of Italian manufacturers 

is that they mediate between the designer 

and the market. 

What’s the global approach to mass 

production in design? Aesthetic 

imperialism? 

This is a big risk. There is a tendency to 

make everything be the same. We will only 

survive if we develop the originality of local 

cultural roots. 

On a different topic: What’s the 

connection between design and 

architecture? 

Design is much more advanced. Not in 

the sense of quality, but contemporary 

designers act over shorter periods. The 

examination of materials and processes is 

also faster. Architecture is too complicated. 

However, I’m tempted to design a building. 

There’s more to do within that field. 

How do you come to that conclusion? 

Buildings today are a waste of time and 

money. The construction processes are the 

same as they were a hundred years ago. 

It has changed very little. 

52 

Copyright © Andreas Toelke/TCS, all rights reserved.

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