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BREAKING THROUGH

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inging jobs and investment to the city and reinforcing<br />

its standing as the fashion capital of the world.<br />

Much of the innovation in fashion is driven by<br />

technology. (See the following chapter on women entrepreneurs<br />

in the tech sector.) But many women are<br />

also updating brick-and-mortar businesses in new and<br />

profitable ways that add to the life and economy of the<br />

city.<br />

“It goes back to women being problem solvers,<br />

[finding] something they can fix or<br />

make materially better,” says Susan<br />

Lyne of BBG Ventures. “Maybe it’s<br />

a better analytics platform for fashion<br />

retailers or it might be a jewelry<br />

subscription service that means you<br />

never have to buy a piece of jewelry<br />

you’re not going to wear again and<br />

instead get three pieces a month in<br />

a box.”<br />

Styling services, for example,<br />

which used to be the province of<br />

high-end stores such as Saks Fifth<br />

Avenue and Bergdorf Goodman,<br />

are now available from businesses<br />

such as Sarah LaFleur’s boutique<br />

MM.LaFleur, which designs and<br />

manufactures its own garments.<br />

Customers can visit the showroom<br />

in NoHo or fill out a questionnaire<br />

online and receive a box of garments<br />

and accessories selected for them. They keep what they<br />

like and send back the rest. Last fall, one MM.LaFleur<br />

dress had a waiting list of 1,000 and, according to<br />

Crain’s New York Business, the company’s sales next year<br />

are expected to top $30 million.<br />

In traditional fashion retailing, women are also<br />

staking out new territory. Consider Rachel Schechtman,<br />

whose Chelsea store, STORY, completely changes<br />

its look and its merchandise, including clothing, books,<br />

home furnishings, every four to six weeks to coordinate<br />

with a new theme. Or the Snyder sisters, jewelry<br />

makers who sell their products in high-end stores like<br />

Bergdorf Goodman but also make heavy use of social<br />

media to promote their company, Dannijo. Then there’s<br />

late-in-life entrepreneur Holly Dale Sherman who got<br />

9 out of 10<br />

companies in the<br />

CFDA Fashion Incubator<br />

89%<br />

of companies on Racked NY’s<br />

list of NYC’s 38 Best Indie<br />

Boutiques (Spring 2015)<br />

82%<br />

of companies participating in<br />

the Design Entrepreneurs NYC<br />

Accelerator<br />

69%<br />

of companies participating in<br />

the Pratt Design Incubator<br />

Have a Female Founder<br />

her rain boot company, GoGoGolosh, off the ground<br />

two years ago when she was 68 years old. Her boots<br />

sell online and in stores around the city.<br />

More women-created fashion and beauty companies<br />

are on deck, offering services and products such<br />

as wearable technology, retailing software and online<br />

styling and fitting services. Of the 130 startups that<br />

the city’s Design Entrepreneurs NYC accelerator has<br />

nurtured since 2012, 106 or 82 percent were founded<br />

by women. In the CFDA Incubator’s<br />

2014-2016 class, nine of the ten<br />

companies have women founders. At<br />

the Fashion Tech Lab, at least half the<br />

companies were started by women.<br />

Services<br />

Service businesses, such as recruiting,<br />

public relations, temporary<br />

help agencies, tutoring services,<br />

management consulting and career<br />

counseling, are naturals for many<br />

entrepreneurs because they take<br />

minimal start-up capital and founders<br />

can leverage the skills they honed<br />

in other jobs. For women, such businesses<br />

can offer more flexible work<br />

schedules, freedom from corporate<br />

hierarchies and opportunities to innovate<br />

that are not available in big<br />

bureaucracies. Many start out as solopreneurs<br />

or consultants and bring their knowledge,<br />

networks and experience from corporate life or other<br />

jobs to the entrepreneurial table.<br />

Public relations is a typical example. Women make<br />

up an estimated 63 percent of rank-and-file publicists,<br />

but they are increasingly going out on their own. Of<br />

New York City’s top 48 PR firms, nearly half were founded<br />

or co-founded by women. Of 18 agencies launched<br />

since 2000, 12 or two-thirds were founded by women.<br />

Indeed, Brew PR, founded by Brooke Hammerling in<br />

2005, was just acquired for $15 million by Freuds, a<br />

London-based communications strategy firm.<br />

The services sector exploded after the recession as<br />

women who lost jobs took the opportunity to go out on<br />

their own. Between 2007 and 2012, in New York City,<br />

Breaking Through 19

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