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EXBERLINER Issue 148 April 2016

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Allan’s Breakfast Club<br />

Bonjour, mate<br />

ERICA LÖFMAN<br />

Your<br />

Englishspeaking<br />

radio in<br />

Berlin.<br />

If there’s one thing you notice when entering<br />

Allan’s Breakfast Club (ABC), it’s Allan, the<br />

personable chap who immediately comes to<br />

greet you with a mix of casual Aussie warmth<br />

and Gallic bon vivant spirit. Welcome to<br />

Prenzlauer Berg’s first Australian café, where<br />

you can indulge in Antipodean brunch during<br />

the day and sip on French wines at night.<br />

ABC boasts some of both cultures’ best<br />

attributes: free-flowing tap water, friendly efficient<br />

service and a classic croque monsieur.<br />

And they seem to have mastered the art of<br />

poaching eggs, not a small feat for Berlin.<br />

This isn’t some gimmick brought back from<br />

a gap year. Allan is a Frenchman<br />

who lived half of his life in Sydney<br />

and speaks Aussie English with a<br />

French lilt. His mum is a chef, and<br />

during his three years in Berlin,<br />

Allan has worked everywhere<br />

from Grill Royal’s bar to the<br />

recently shuttered Melbourne<br />

Canteen. After a successful<br />

pop-up on Unter den Linden, the<br />

thirtysomething went sedentary and is now<br />

blessing Kollwitzkiez with a proper expat-style<br />

brunch – a novelty in this part of town, where<br />

breakfast largely remains a German hodgepodge<br />

of nondescript cold cuts and cheese.<br />

Besides the mishmash of French (an issue of<br />

Charlie Hebdo) and Australian paraphernalia<br />

ALLAN’S BREAKFAST<br />

CLUB Rykestr. 13,<br />

Prenzlauer Berg, U-<br />

Bhf Senefelderplatz,<br />

Thu-Sun 10-16 (breakfast),<br />

Wed-Sat from<br />

19:30 (wine bar)<br />

ERICA LÖFMAN<br />

(an “I heart Sydney” sticker), the one-room<br />

café is rife with clever design details: a<br />

skateboard truck turned coat hook under the<br />

counter, honey jars certified by the German<br />

Beekeepers’ Association as water glasses. It’s<br />

small and cosy, and on any weekend morning<br />

a startling number of brunchers (make sure to<br />

reserve days in advance!) sit on high stools at<br />

the window or at the counter, or on vintage<br />

school chairs around the long dining table.<br />

So what have they come for? Mostly<br />

beautifully poached eggs served as spicy<br />

shakshouka (€9) or with a side of green asparagus<br />

and prosciutto (€10). And of course<br />

Benedict-style (€10), with a<br />

convincing hollandaise and a<br />

choice of Parma ham or Allan’s<br />

house-cured salmon – a secret<br />

four-day ritual involving beetroot,<br />

hence the unusual reddish<br />

colour. Those beautiful chunks<br />

of fish are something to die for,<br />

and if you have an egg aversion<br />

you can order them with<br />

smashed avocado on top of two bagel halves<br />

(or toasted sourdough, on demand) for €10.<br />

It’s all so rich (in a good way) that we suggest<br />

sharing a plate and keeping some room for<br />

dessert (warm banana bread, brownies...).<br />

For a lighter treat, there are salads (quinoa,<br />

pumpkin, pomegranate and blue cheese,<br />

€10) or simply delicious “avo” toast (€6).<br />

After 7:30pm the place morphs into a<br />

French wine bar with cold plates, cheese soufflé<br />

and a clever DIY boozing concept: help<br />

yourself to as many of the 12 open wines as<br />

your liver can handle, write down each wine’s<br />

number on a provided sheet of paper and pay<br />

at the end (€2.50-5). Noteworthy is the unusual<br />

abundance of rosés, including a Château<br />

Miraval from the Brangelina estate.<br />

Open just four days a week, this is a place<br />

of indulgence, where a friend might drop by<br />

with a box of sweet treats from a Berlin patissier<br />

and Allan will open a glass of champagne<br />

(rosé, of course). It’s a quiet 3pm on a Thursday<br />

– what better way to enjoy a moment of<br />

peace before the evening rush? FP<br />

For<br />

adventurous<br />

thinkers.<br />

www.nprberlin.de 49

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