MZANZI TRAVEL - ISSUE 3

Heritage & Environment
Porterville, and adjacent to the Olifants River. It plays a big
role in the protection of the Cape’s unique mountain fynbos
and wildlife, and is also a source of water for Cape Town.
From its source the river flows north along the eastern side
of the Groot Winterhoek Wilderness Area, then cuts through
the Winterhoek Mountains into a valley where it then flows
through intensely irrigated fruit-farming districts, passing the
tiny settlements of Theerivier and The Baths, and on to the
citrus farming district of Citrusdal.
The area was originally populated by the San and Khoi people,
of whom many ancient rock paintings survive here. In the Groot
Winterhoek Wilderness Area we hiked along one of the many
scenic trails with incredible rock formations and many springs,
passing De Tronk – used for overnight accommodation – to
where the trail ended with a steep climb down to a deep, dark
mountain pool in which we cooled off. Heaven on earth.
Leaving the mountain wilderness area behind, we followed
the R365 and the N7 to Citrusdal, then doubled back up the
valley to Mcgregor’s Cottage and Camping. Tucked into the
valley at the foot of the Olifantrivier Mountains and a minute’s
walk from the river, this delightful cottage is set in a beautiful
garden overlooking orange orchards with stunning views,
offering comfort and all amenities. But for those who want
to be closer to nature, there is a lovely camping site as well.
Just down the road lies The Baths and the small, hidden away
settlement of Theerivier. The hot water spring at The Baths
was used by the early Khoi and San people who lived here.
When the first European settlers arrived in the area around
1720 it led to clashes with the original inhabitants, causing
the acting governor at the Cape, Daniel van den Henghel, to
erect a building there to establish the Cape’s authority over
the valley.
This building was later renovated for the personal use of
Governor Rijk Tulbagh and the occasional use of a number
of leading families as the Cape. After falling into disrepair
and several owners later, it was eventually sold to one James
McGregor, whose descendants today run it as a spa with
lovely accommodation and facilities for visitors seeking
peace, tranquillity and the legendary healing qualities of the
hot spring water. The history of the place and the family who
own it, is fascinating one.
The area is of course also known for something else with
astounding healing properties: the buchu and rooibos plants.
In fact the region is the cradle of South Africa’s indigenous
‘pharmaceutical’ industry where these two plants and various
other herbs and plants were first discovered and used
extensively by the Khoisan over hundreds, perhaps thousands
of years.
A scenic Cederberg scene of the
Olifants River
Here you can follow the Buchu Hiking Trail and learn more
about the medicinal qualities of Agathosma Betulina, known
locally as buchu. The two species of the plant, as well as the
rooibos plant, are endemic to this Western Cape region. Today
buchu is cultivated on a commercial basis for its essential oils,
while tea and brandy is also made from the leaves. Rooibos tea
has become world-famous for its taste and its claimed health
benefits as a cure for everything from nagging headaches,
to insomnia, asthma, eczema, bone weakness, hypertension,
allergies, and premature ageing. Some say it even helps
prevent cancer.
Shortly after Citrusdal we leave the N7 and the river
temporarily to follow the road up into the breathtakingly
beautiful mountains to the Algeria Campsite located in the
Cederberg Mountain Wilderness Area along the banks of
the Uitkyk River, a tributary of the Olifants River. Here we
replenished our refreshment stocks at a wine farm high up
28 |ISSUE 3|www.mzanzitravel.co.za | MZANZI TRAVEL