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EUROPE’S SECRET FOOD HOTSPOTS Venture off the beaten track this autumn and alongside placid lakes, gentrified docklands and Alpine valleys you’ll find oyster brioches, new-wave fish and chips and mutton rolled in juniper. But shhh… don’t tell everyone! Edited by RHIANNON BATTEN 108 Omagazine.com September 2016
EXPLORE SLOVENIA Read more about Slovenia at Omagazine. com WORDS: CHARLOTTE MORGAN. PHOTOGRAPHS: GETTY. DEAN DUBOKOVIC Why Slovenia isn’t overflowing with tourists is hard to fathom. Perhaps it’s because this scenic little country – with a population of just over two million – is so well hidden, tucked between Italy, Austria, Hungary and Croatia. SLEEP Nebesa, a cluster of mountainous chalets just five minutes from the Italian border, means ‘heaven’ in Slovenian, and it lives up to its name. Peaceful and blissfully quiet, its rooms are sleek and comfortable, with glass-fronted living spaces, private terraces and views of the turquoise Isonzo river below. Nebesa is also home to a spa and all-you-caneat pantry (the latter is open 24/7 and comes stocked with local prosciutto, cheeses, bread and homemade wine). There’s no real reason to leave Nebesa – just enjoy it for the zen-like haven that it is. EAT At Majerija restaurant with rooms, just outside the village of Slap, herbs and flowers mould the menu – you can pick up to 40 different herbs within 1km of the dining room. Chives are served whole to create a bitter explosion of flavour, and basil liquor is made from five different types of basil. Try mutton rolled in juniper and coffee (you can see the mountain it once grazed on from some of the tables) with a creamy sauvignon vert made just a 45 minutes’ drive away (majerija.si). For something special, head to Dvorec Zemono run by Tomaž Kavcic, a charismatic chef who’s often praised for modernising his homeland’s cuisine (prilojzetu.si). Food here is playful: deconstructed beef soup with test tubes (literally) of rich reductions; and a hilarious ‘whoops!’ ice-cream bomb that (spoiler alert) your waiter will intentionally smash onto your plate. Another must-visit restaurant is Hiša Franko, where chef Ana Roš champions the same eat-local, eat-seasonal principles so revered by the Slovenes (hisafranko.com). Typical five-course menus include dishes such as a colourful bowl of young beetroot, sunchokes (Jerusalem artichokes) and tiny meadow plants, with snails (juicy, soft, rich) and a ‘melting egg yolk’ that has only the slightest film on it – a credit to its freshness. DON’T TELL EVERYONE… The Mesesnel family has been making wine for generations at Cejkotova house and cellar in Goce (their candle-lit wine cellar is 700 years old). Pop in for lunch – Davorin Mesesnel, who shows guests round, makes a mean frtalja (basically a fat pancake, loaded with herbs) – and a tasting of ribolla wine (00 386 31 398 496). Return flights from London Luton to Ljubljana cost from £49 (wizzair.com). Double rooms at Nebesa start from €186 b&b (nebesa.si). One week’s car hire costs from around £70 (sixt.co.uk). MORE INFO slovenia.info » September 2016 Omagazine.com 109
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