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BEN RADFORD,<br />
TIMBERYARD,<br />
EDINBURGH<br />
In this hip warehouse<br />
space, Ben applies a Nordic<br />
methodology (seasonal, local,<br />
foraged, home-smoked), to<br />
create fascinating dishes from<br />
peerless Scottish produce.<br />
@timberyard10<br />
“People throw<br />
‘<br />
local ’ and<br />
‘<br />
seasonal ’<br />
around but, for me,<br />
Andrew Fairlie is a<br />
Scottish restaurant<br />
genuinely committed<br />
to that ethos.”<br />
The Dairy, London SW4<br />
“This is where London cooking is right now:<br />
a fun, cheap, bustling restaurant and<br />
constantly evolving, technically great food.”<br />
Plates £6-£10.50; the-dairy.co.uk<br />
Andrew Fairlie at<br />
Gleneagles Hotel,<br />
Auchterader, Scotland<br />
“The first time I visited Andrew Fairlie it was<br />
bucketing down, but Gleneagles Hotel still<br />
looked beautiful. It’s enormous, the grounds<br />
are stunning and, from the minute you walk<br />
in, you’re waited on hand-and-foot, but in<br />
a friendly way. The staff are always ready with<br />
a smile, there is no pretence. The restaurant<br />
is in the windowless heart of the hotel, so<br />
whatever time it is, or whatever the weather<br />
outside, you’re in your own lavish bubble of<br />
crisp linen and polished silver cutlery. Andrew’s<br />
smoked Orkney lobster dish with lime herb<br />
butter, in which the meat is first removed and<br />
the shells smoked over whisky barrel chips,<br />
is fantastic. In 2012, the restaurant acquired<br />
a nearby walled garden and, since then, the<br />
style of the food began to change from being<br />
classically French (say, foie gras terrine with<br />
sauternes and caramelised fig), to something<br />
more influenced by this light, abundant<br />
produce. Last year – I’ve been four times since<br />
2011 – they ran a tasting menu using just their<br />
own ingredients and those from within<br />
20 miles. People throw ‘local’ and ‘seasonal’<br />
around but, for me, Andrew Fairlie is a Scottish<br />
restaurant genuinely committed to that ethos.<br />
Seeing the possibilities of that was quite<br />
influential on Timberyard.” Three courses,<br />
£95; andrewfairlie.co.uk<br />
Andrew<br />
Fairlie at<br />
Gleneagles<br />
Hotel<br />
The Honours, Edinburgh<br />
“The chateaubriand is hands-down the best<br />
steak I’ve ever had. Fantastic service, too.”<br />
Mains from £22; thehonours.co.uk<br />
PHOTOGRAPH: MYBURGH DU PLESSIS<br />
84 Omagazine.com September 2016
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