GRIOTS REPUBLIC - AN URBAN BLACK TRAVEL MAG - DECEMBER 2016

By Elmeka Henderson
One of the most curious aspects of
Japanese culture is ritual visits to
hot springs (onsen) throughout
the length and breadth of the country.
Since 552 AD, the Japanese have been
getting naked and sharing a public bath
with their family, friends, and neighbors
to exchange the latest gossip, express
kinship and bond while soaking in a
bubbling, sulfur-scented pool.
To the foreign observer, of course, the
thought of lying naked and sharing a
bath (foro) with complete strangers can
be off putting. I know it was to me. But
once I learned about the history and ritual
of the onsen, it became surprisingly
more appealing.
There are estimated to be over 27,000
natural hot springs in the Land of the
Rising Sun and with 3,000 resorts, if a
person went to a different onsen every
week it would take them over 70 years
to visit them all.
Because of its ongoing volcanic activity,
onsens have been an integral part
of society for millennia. For example,
Dogo Onsen in Ehime Prefecture on the
island of Shikoku is said to be one of
the first recorded in Japanese history,
dating back over 3,000 years. The arrival
of Buddhism to Japan served to
popularize onsens even more, with the
bathing ritual of purification kept in accordance
with the religion’s principals.
Today, visiting an onsen has become
not only a local tradition, but also a
once-in-a-lifetime tourist experience
due to the exclusivity of the ritual and
restrictions to foreigners in some areas.
For example, traditionally the onsen refused
those with tattoos because they
wanted to avoid the hassle of the Yakuza.
Now, no one is going to actually refuse
the Yakuza to their face, but signs
were placed to try and deter their attendance.
However, this association has
become so engrained in Japanese culture,
that even foreigners with tattoos
are turned away (like myself).
There are options, though. Sento, which
are paid bathhouses, have private options
for those with ink and you can enjoy
the benefits of the onsen experience
without the communal nakedness. My
son prefers these after a recent expe-