16 Carpe Vino owner Gary Moffat enjoys interacting with patrons, including (from left) Shannon Mohr of Lincoln, Ramey Klum of <strong>Auburn</strong> and Jenna Molina of Rocklin. Photo By Jeremy Burke, <strong>Auburn</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong>
CONTINUED FROM PREVIOUS PAGE He makes his own kimchee, the fermented and spicy Korean cabbage dish. “But instead of using cabbage, I’ll use green garlic because it’s seasonal.” The menu changes based on availability, but one can usually choose an entree from among an impeccable piece of fish, a tender cut of beef, a house-made pasta creation and sometimes a selection from another part of the world. Seasons are also important to Gary and Drew Moffat. Baseball season, to be precise. The Chicago transplants are big Cubs fans. To mark the last World Series, in which the Cubs beat the Cleveland Indians, Gary and Drew one night rented a portable jumbo TV-on-a-trailer, closed the street in front of the restaurant, and created an open-air, feel-good community event. A couple of times a year, they also offer “Chicago dogs” as a special menu item. The Vienna all-beef brats come in the style of the Windy City, snuggled inside a steamed poppyseed bun and bedecked with sport peppers, neon green relish, yellow mustard and celery salt. If a working-class hotdog’s not “approachable,” nothing is. Except the burgers. Yep, Carpe Vino also offers cheeseburgers periodically – again, first-come, first-served until they run out. A CV Angus burger is a half-pound two-hander with toasted brioche bun, house fondue cheese, caramelized onions and steak fries. (Now this is a happy meal.) For those who prefer their burger with a brew rather than a Beaujolais, CV offers a selection of craft beers, including several from Placer County. There’s that sense of place again. Chef Eric’s finely honed and educated palette takes no offense to a good burger (“I go to In N Out, for sure,” he readily admits). He has a favorite place for tacos, and 6-year-old daughter Josephine’s favorite eatery is Chevy’s. But like her culinary parents, Josie also has gourmet game. “She makes a salad – it’s so good, I told her I’d put it on the menu,” Eric says. She trims the lettuce, cuts the stems off any other greens, then whips up her own simple vinaigrette: “Olive oil, Meyer lemon and salt. … She collects the eggs at the farm, and she’s a constant in the kitchen.” But hotdogs and cheeseburgers aren’t Carpe Vino’s bread and butter. Approachability is fine to a point, but this is undeniably fine dining. “We have people who have been all around the world and who have eaten everything,” Eric says. “I still want them to come and have things they haven’t tried.” Eleven years is a long time for an executive chef to stay in one kitchen. What’s kept Chef Eric at Carpe Vino for so long? “I have almost 100 percent say in the food, the dishes,” he says. But with that longevity, does he run the risk of repeating himself? “If I think, ‘What did people used to like?’ – I’m trying not to do that,” he says. “I still want them to be excited about new things.” Freshness, innovation and new ideas are also a focus of Gary and Drew Moffat. “We’re not the new game in town,” Drew says. “We compete against ourselves from the last experience the customer had until the next. We want to be very good and affordable, but at the same time, we can’t let that (affordability) diminish what the chef’s trying to do.” About 60 or 70 percent of Carpe Vino’s patrons are repeat customers – some come weekly, some prefer to 17