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20<br />

The Bay of Islands Special Feature<br />

MAY 15, <strong>2017</strong><br />

A brilliant page from history for a bright future<br />

The Bay of Islands that shaped our Nation, our people<br />

Ratna Venkat<br />

ratna@indiannewslink.co.nz<br />

In New Zealand, we have a beautiful<br />

Māori saying, “Ka mua, ka muri,”<br />

which means that in order to move<br />

forward, one needs to look back.<br />

In other words, the future is not<br />

clear but the past is, and if we permit<br />

ourselves to be guided by those who<br />

have lived before us, we will learn<br />

valuable lessons to help with our journey<br />

into the future.<br />

The Bay of Islands<br />

Our recent trip to the Bay of Islands<br />

on the east coast of New Zealand’s Far<br />

North (about 250 km from Auckland)<br />

was a stark reminder of this Māori proverb,<br />

particularly when visiting the small,<br />

yet significant towns of Russell, Paihia<br />

and Waitangi; towns that contributed<br />

towards the making of our nation.<br />

Taking us back in time to the earliest<br />

discovery of Aotearoa (Māori name for<br />

New Zealand), from its very first settlers<br />

to the official ‘birth’ of a nation, the Bay<br />

of Islands are deeply engraved in New<br />

Zealand’s historical timeline.<br />

A place encoded with so much<br />

heritage, culture and political changes,<br />

along with its bonus of warm blue-green<br />

waters, white sandy beaches and abundant<br />

native wildlife, it is little wonder<br />

that this humble sub-tropical region<br />

consistently attracts visitors from around<br />

the world, as well as from other parts of<br />

New Zealand.<br />

Hole in the Rock<br />

One of the best ways of exploring the<br />

Bay’s 144 islands is by taking a cruise<br />

either from Russell or Paihia, for which<br />

various packages are offered to the<br />

public depending on areas of interests<br />

and specific preferences.<br />

The voyage we took (and would<br />

recommend) is ‘Fullers GreatSights:<br />

Hole-in-the-Rock Dolphin Cruise,’<br />

with inclusions such as passing through<br />

the hole in the rock (hence the name),<br />

dolphin-watching and a brief stopover<br />

at Urupukapuka Island for breath-taking<br />

views overlooking Otehei Bay, suitable<br />

for walk and trek enthusiasts.<br />

Unfortunately, we could not cruise<br />

through the hole in the rock due to poor<br />

weather conditions that day, but we<br />

were lucky enough to witness a pod of<br />

bottlenose dolphins swimming by our<br />

catamaran, and putting on a show of<br />

their impressive acrobatic antics for us!<br />

With the largest viewing decks in the<br />

Bay, the ‘Hole-in-the-Rock Dolphin<br />

Fullers GreatSights Cruise- A breath-taking view along the Bay Fullers GreatSights Cruise- Dolphins create waves on the Bay waters The Russell Mini Tour with Chris McIntyre is a must<br />

The Duke Motel- A good home in Russel<br />

Cruise’ is ideal for people of all ages<br />

who wish to get close to these majestic<br />

creatures in their natural, unprovoked<br />

habitat.<br />

The catamaran skipper, licensed by<br />

the Department of Conservation (DOC),<br />

provided us an informative commentary<br />

throughout our cruise, and assured that<br />

they do not influence the dolphins or other<br />

marine mammals in any way; that they<br />

swim towards the boat out of their own<br />

will and curiosity.<br />

First Voyager<br />

Other attractions in this cruise package<br />

include locating the spots of the first<br />

Māori voyager, Kupe who set foot in the<br />

Bay, followed by Captain James Cook,<br />

the first European to arrive at the Bay, the<br />

historic Cape Brett Lighthouse, and native<br />

birdlife such as pied shags, gannets and<br />

oystercatchers residing on cliff tops.<br />

‘Fullers GreatSights: Hole-in-the-Rock<br />

Dolphin Cruise’ is guaranteed to be the<br />

best half day one will have in the Bay. For<br />

bookings, please visit<br />

http://www.dolphincruises.co.nz/bayof-islands-cruises/hole-in-the-rock/<br />

and www.visitboi.co.nz/<br />

Surprising Russell<br />

After returning to Russel Wharf from<br />

our cruise, we boarded a coach for another<br />

adventure of New Zealand’s past, named<br />

‘Fullers GreatSights: Russell Mini Tour.’<br />

As the name suggests, this is a one-hour<br />

mini guided tour around Russell, a now<br />

peaceful law-abiding town that was once<br />

notoriously known as “Hell Hole of the<br />

Pacific,” given the bad reputation it had<br />

Locally grown figs and honey at<br />

The Duke of Marlborough Hotel<br />

A boutique property with nautical theme- Ratna Venkat at the Duke Motel<br />

for being a lawless trading centre full of<br />

drunken whalers, prostitutes and escaped<br />

convicts from Australia.<br />

Chris McIntyre, our guide, took us<br />

back in time to several of these iconic<br />

locations, now a part of Russell’s unique<br />

heritage, while sharing his local insight of<br />

the town.<br />

Place of Many Firsts<br />

We were surprised how little we<br />

knew about New Zealand’s early history<br />

before boarding the Mini Tour, especially<br />

Russell’s many firsts (and oldest) sites in<br />

New Zealand.<br />

The first permanent European<br />

settlement and seaport, along with being<br />

the country’s first Capital.<br />

In terms of infrastructure, Russell<br />

proudly holds Christs’ Anglican Church<br />

as the oldest surviving church, ‘The<br />

Duke of Marlborough Hotel’ as the<br />

oldest licensed hotel, bar and restaurant,<br />

and Pompallier House as the oldest<br />

industrial building and licensed pub in<br />

New Zealand.<br />

Big Little Town<br />

Interestingly, Russell generates its own<br />

water supply by totally depending on its<br />

rainfall, which is why the water tastes<br />

From the Water’s edge to the threshold of peace<br />

Paihia opens its heart to the world<br />

Paihia is affectionately known as<br />

‘Jewel of the Bay of the Islands,’<br />

access to which from Russell is<br />

via the Opua ferry.<br />

It is easy to see why it means ‘good<br />

here’ in Māori, for not only is this an<br />

excellent base to explore the Bay in all<br />

its glory but the town itself is a lively<br />

and colourful place full of warm-hearted<br />

people.<br />

Charlotte serves with passion<br />

Our short stay in Paihia was well<br />

spent at ‘Charlotte’s Kitchen,’ a newly<br />

established restaurant and bar not so easy<br />

to find, but located right at the end of<br />

the pier where its eye-catching logo and<br />

friendly staff instantly draw people.<br />

Given its idyllic location near the<br />

ocean, the beautiful view of the Bay is an<br />

understatement, for one’s dining experience<br />

is heightened either by the colours of the<br />

setting sun or by the twinkling lights at night.<br />

The restaurant’s unique name is in<br />

remembrance of Charlotte Badger, a<br />

criminal from the UK and allegedly the<br />

first European woman to settle in New<br />

Zealand, who was known for her passion,<br />

strength and daring conquests.<br />

Modernity rubs with the past<br />

The interiors of the restaurant are also<br />

noticeable, a blend where modernity meets<br />

style, yet cosy at the same time.<br />

‘Charlotte’s Kitchen’ is different from<br />

other restaurants for it believes that meals<br />

are to be shared, the way that families and<br />

loved ones eat and share meals at home.<br />

Hence, if food is a reason to bring<br />

people closer together, then this place<br />

would certainly create that ambience.<br />

It is recommended to make a booking.<br />

Vegetarian and gluten-free options are<br />

also available. Please visit http://www.<br />

Charlotte’s Kitchen-<br />

The name is a draw in Paihia<br />

charlotteskitchen.co.nz/ and www.visitboi.<br />

co.nz/<br />

Slice of Heaven<br />

With a commendable tagline such as<br />

‘Jewel of the Bay,’ staying at ‘The Scenic<br />

Hotel Bay of Islands,’ would be an apt<br />

accommodation for any traveller to Paihia<br />

(and other islands of the Bay).<br />

100% New Zealand owned and<br />

operated, the hotel is set at international<br />

standards with a genuine feel of Kiwi<br />

hospitality, welcoming guests ranging<br />

Newport Handcrafted Chocolates- to eat and<br />

to drink- at Russell<br />

different yet pleasant compared to other<br />

cities in New Zealand.<br />

McIntyre also mentioned that the town<br />

holds many expensive holiday homes of<br />

which 60% are owned by wealthy people<br />

residing overseas.<br />

New Zealand’s most expensive rental<br />

accommodation, called ‘Eagles Nest’ is<br />

also based in this ‘big little town.’<br />

The coach tour’s other attractions<br />

include climbing atop the Flagstaff Hill<br />

overlooking stunning views of the Bay,<br />

as well as meeting a group of friendly<br />

wekas, New Zealand’s native birds that<br />

resemble the kiwi birds.<br />

‘Fullers GreatSights: Russell Mini<br />

Tour’ is a great way of visiting these areas<br />

of past and present which cannot be easily<br />

explored on foot.<br />

To book online, please visit https://<br />

www.dolphincruises.co.nz/bay-of-islandstours/discover-russell/<br />

and www.visitboi.<br />

co.nz/<br />

The Dining experience<br />

Keeping up with the historical theme, a<br />

perfect way to wrap up one’s sightseeing<br />

in Russell is to dine at ‘The Duke of<br />

Marlborough Hotel,’ a heritage hotel, bar<br />

and restaurant located a few metres away<br />

Charlotte’s Kitchen- Indulge in cuisine luxuryhandcrafted<br />

pizza with blue cheese and onion jam<br />

from business and corporate visitors to<br />

families, groups and individuals.<br />

‘The Scenic Hotel Bay of Islands’ is<br />

one of the most naturesque hotels with<br />

rooms surrounded by lush greenery and<br />

island-inspired beauty, as though one<br />

is amongst a rainforest but with all the<br />

creature comforts!<br />

To experience this slice of Kiwi<br />

hospitality within the accommodation,<br />

please visit http://scenichotelgroup.co.nz/<br />

and www.visitboi.co.nz/<br />

The Duke of Marlborough- New Zealand’s first and oldest Hotel<br />

from the site of the Mini Tour.<br />

The restaurant’s intriguing name was<br />

coined in the 1830s by Johnny Johnston,<br />

‘a convict-turned-good man,’ who was<br />

regarded highly by the local Māori people.<br />

The Duke of Marlborough at the time<br />

was the world’s wealthiest man, and<br />

Johnny’s decision to give the hotel this<br />

new name sought to bring sophistication<br />

and opulence to the so-called “Hell Hole<br />

of the Pacific.”<br />

A recipient of many awards, the restaurant<br />

menu offers the best of locally sourced<br />

seasonal produce, presenting a new take<br />

on classic favourites, including a range of<br />

vegetarian and gluten-free options.<br />

To make a booking, please visit http://<br />

theduke.co.nz/ and www.visitboi.co.nz/<br />

Motel with Nautical theme<br />

Russell’s history and culture has always<br />

been associated with its neighbouring sea<br />

and the vast ocean.<br />

‘The Duke Motel,’ managed by the<br />

owners of ‘The Duke Marlborough Hotel,’<br />

and located within walking distance, is a<br />

beautiful boutique motel that has sustained<br />

this nautical theme across the nine<br />

self-contained rooms it offers.<br />

Ranging from two-bedroom units<br />

to studios in an open setting with two<br />

spacious barbecue areas and an outdoor<br />

heated swimming pool, this accommodation<br />

is perfect for couples, families or<br />

those seeking an extra special stay while<br />

exploring Russell and the rest of the Bay.<br />

For more information on ‘The Duke<br />

Motel,’ please visit http://www.dukemotel.<br />

co.nz/ and www.visitboi.co.nz/<br />

The Scenic Hotel Bay of Islands- Where visitors<br />

become friends<br />

The Scenic Hotel Bay of Islands-<br />

From Nature to Stature<br />

Pictures by Ratna Venkat

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