Wealden Times | WT184 | June 2017 | Kitchen & Bathroom supplement inside

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Jane Howard’s Fables from the Farm Jane discusses the potential impact of Brexit on the farm Twelve months on and somehow I’ve managed to keep Fables from the Farm a Brexit free zone, but we live in changing times and what happens next could have a huge impact on every aspect of agriculture. And make a big difference to what ends up on your plate. One concern is for the future of our wonderful native beef. With the possible exception of New Zealand, the UK grows the best grass on the planet and as a consequence, over the centuries we have developed about 15 different regional breeds of cattle, each evolved to thrive on the local terroir. From the Angus in Scotland, to the Herefords in Wales, the Lincolns in the East to the Ruby Reds in Devon and of course the Sussex here in the South East we have a priceless resource that needs to be recognized, cherished and most importantly eaten. And as everyone’s talking about manifestos these days here’s mine to try and make that happen! First off, we must stop talking about rare breeds, it makes them sound exclusive, expensive and above all endangered – not a great starting point to encourage people to eat more. Heritage, traditional or regional beef sounds so much better. Secondly all the breeds taste very different so we should treat them as a wonderful “smorgasbord” to explore “Have you ever wondered why your steak, rib or chop is so much bigger in Texas than Twickenham?” and understand. In much the same way that the French encourage you to try all their different wines by providing tasting notes and guidelines on food pairings we should do just the same for our heritage beef. So whether it’s the creamy mellow Shorthorn, buttery gamey Welsh Black or the mineral, flinty Lincoln Red there really is something for everyone – and a lot of fun to be had discovering which you like best. The third point is trickier. If people are going to pay a little more for high welfare heritage beef – and as it’s grass fed, slow maturing and properly hung it will cost more – they will want to be 100% sure they’re eating the real thing. At the moment a restaurant can claim it’s selling a certain breed of beef – and most are honest – but how can you be entirely sure it is what it says? Hopefully technology will help with this. In the US fishermen and chefs are working together to curb the rampant fraud in the seafood industry by allowing people to track a fish from the moment it’s caught until it lands on your plate. Dock to Dish, is a tracking system that through an online dashboard, displays newly caught fish in barcoded bags, which can then be traced from the boat to the restaurant. There’s every reason to suppose the technology to DNA trace meat in a similar fashion will be commonplace here in a few years. So what’s all this got to do with Brexit? Well, if we leave the EU and wave goodbye to its stringent welfare rules the world will apparently be our oyster. And much has been made of opening links with bigger better markets like the US. But have you ever wondered why your steak, rib or chop is so much bigger in Texas than Twickenham? That’s because many of America’s farm animals are fed synthetic hormones making them grow a lot bigger and faster than they naturally would. Because of this the EU has banned the import of American meat since 1993 but if we decide to do all sorts of new deals with the rest of the world then there’s every chance this type of meat could end up in the UK. In which case you might be very glad to have one of those new fangled apps on your phone to reassure that the steak on your plate came from a British cow-sized-cow – and hopefully a heritage breed to boot. Follow Jane Howard – and the farm – on Instagram @coopersfarm wealdentimes.co.uk 172
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Wealden Times | WT184 | June 2017 | Kitchen & Bathroom supplement inside

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