WINE DINE & TRAVEL MAGAZINE SUMMER 2017

usiest seaports in Europe – at one
time, home to 11 shipyards and 400 sea
captains. The island remained part of
the Austro-Hungarian Empire until the
end of World War I, when the Treaty of
Rapallo gave it to Italy. After World War
II, it was incorporated into Yugoslavia.
In 1991, it became part of present-day
independent Croatia.
The island was untouched during Croatia’s
war for independence, said guide
Damir Badurina. Only the colors of
towns changed – from shades of gray
to pastels.
A short walk from Cikat Bay, Mali Losinj
is the island’s largest town. It still has a
Maritime Academy where young people
can learn to become sea captains – but
today’s graduates will most likely skipper
private yachts and tour boats that
line the docks of the bay. Mali’s harbor
is edged with outdoor cafes and shops
where tourists sample olive oils and local
honey. Children skip rope in the town
square. Hills are terraced with red tile
roofs of gracious homes once owned by
sea captains – passed down to greatgrandchildren
who run pirate-themed
excursion boats or ice cream parlors.
The Museum of Apoxyomenos is one of
Mali Losinj’s proudest achievements. It’s
dedicated entirely to an ancient Greek
statue discovered in 1996, just off the
Losinj coast – where it had rested for
about 2,000 years. If you missed seeing
the ancient bronze when it visited
the Getty or the Louvre, don’t miss it in
its home. The sculpture depicts the timeless
beauty of a young male athlete’s
nude body – and the museum is a contemporary
love letter to that perfectly
preserved treasure.
Veli Losinj is a colorful seafront village
on the southeast end of island. The
town dates to the 13th century – and,
like Mali, was home to generations of
boat builders and seafarers. Its baroque
Basilica of St. Anthony, rebuilt in the late
Above: A sea captain in Mali Losinj is happy to
greet a visitor.
Left: ‘Late afternoon sun reflects on Cikat Bay.
WINEDINEANDTRAVEL.COM 117