feature Finding Alternatives to Fast Fashion BY KIMBERLY LEUNG 18 | FAIR TRADE MAGAZINE • CANADA’S VOICE FOR SOCIAL SUSTAINABILITY
The term “fast fashion” might bring to mind cheap and cheerful— inexpensive items purchased on a whim, stylish without breaking the bank. Or it might evoke a more negative impression: wasteful, shoddy, and ill-fitting clothing that falls apart after a few wears, with profit made at the expense of workers. However you see it, there’s no denying the success of this model. Quick inventory turnover means we can find something new and affordable almost every time we shop. Since 2004, clothing sales in Canada have increased every year, hitting $41.9 billion in 2015. Part of this growth can be attributed to the popularity of fast fashion, which thrives in a challenging retail landscape by consistently offering low prices for consumers while delivering higher margins for businesses. But fast fashion’s impact on the environment, not to mention the human cost, is unsettling. The textile industry is a huge polluter with its heavy use of pesticides and toxic chemicals, contaminating the air, soil, and waterways. Garment factory workers are often forced to toil in substandard conditions, putting in long hours for little pay. While these problems are hardly new, the Rana Plaza collapse in Bangladesh in 2013 sparked wider consumer awareness of these issues, resulting in mainstream voices calling for change, and retailers promising to do better. Today, celebrities show up in ecoconscious clothing at big events and publicize their ethical clothing on social media. Big names like H&M now offer limited edition sustainable collections. So while fast fashion is still going strong, there are parallel trends toward minimalism, mindful consumerism, and even self-improvement through closet organization (like the KonMari Method and capsule wardrobes). can we learn to treat unethical and unsustainably made clothing the same way we treat clothing we deem to be too expensive—by leaving it on the rack? Defining ethics: A moving target What makes an article of clothing sustainable or ethical? There’s no fixed definition for either term in the fashion industry, leaving businesses to put their own spin on it. From Preloved, a brand that upcycles vintage fabrics into modern pieces, to Encircled, a fashion line that uses eco-friendly fabrics, to One Earth, a direct sales outfit with merchandise sourced through partnerships with overseas artisans, there are alternatives. Companies that identify as sustainable or ethical usually indicate that their products are made with minimal exploitation of the environment, workers, or both. In some cases, they even outline a clear intent to produce quality, versatile items to reduce the need for added consumption. Ethical and sustainable product lines also tend to be more expensive. For today’s budget-minded shopper, this is a major obstacle towards change. “Consumers are still very much motivated by price and the thrill of getting a good deal,” says Jane Gragtmans, founder of Didi Bihini, a Canadian fair trade gifts wholesaler. And the stats back her up. While clothing sales grew in volume between 2004 and 2015, the cost of clothing decreased during the same period. What about fair trade– certified clothing? If you thought finding ethical clothing was already tricky, finding fair trade–certified options is even more difficult. For a variety of reasons, small companies looking to make their mark in sustainable fashion aren’t often pursuing certification. Some lack the resources. Others simply don’t fit the fair trade model. For example, a company that turns discarded fabrics into limited edition collections doesn’t CFTN.CA | 19