FTM-July2017-Issuu

The term “fast fashion” might bring
to mind cheap and cheerful—
inexpensive items purchased on a whim,
stylish without breaking the bank. Or it
might evoke a more negative impression:
wasteful, shoddy, and ill-fitting clothing
that falls apart after a few wears, with
profit made at the expense of workers.
However you see it, there’s no
denying the success of this model.
Quick inventory turnover means we
can find something new and affordable
almost every time we shop. Since 2004,
clothing sales in Canada have increased
every year, hitting $41.9 billion in 2015.
Part of this growth can be attributed
to the popularity of fast fashion, which
thrives in a challenging retail landscape
by consistently offering low prices for
consumers while delivering higher
margins for businesses.
But fast fashion’s impact on the
environment, not to mention the human
cost, is unsettling. The textile industry
is a huge polluter with its heavy use
of pesticides and toxic chemicals,
contaminating the air, soil, and
waterways. Garment factory workers
are often forced to toil in substandard
conditions, putting in long hours for
little pay. While these problems are
hardly new, the Rana Plaza collapse
in Bangladesh in 2013 sparked wider
consumer awareness of these issues,
resulting in mainstream voices calling
for change, and retailers promising to do
better.
Today, celebrities show up in ecoconscious
clothing at big events and
publicize their ethical clothing on social
media. Big names like H&M now offer
limited edition sustainable collections.
So while fast fashion is still going
strong, there are parallel trends toward
minimalism, mindful consumerism, and
even self-improvement through closet
organization (like the KonMari Method
and capsule wardrobes).
can we learn to
treat unethical
and unsustainably
made clothing the
same way we treat
clothing we deem to
be too expensive—by
leaving it on the rack?
Defining ethics:
A moving target
What makes an article of clothing
sustainable or ethical? There’s no fixed
definition for either term in the fashion
industry, leaving businesses to put
their own spin on it. From Preloved,
a brand that upcycles vintage fabrics
into modern pieces, to Encircled, a
fashion line that uses eco-friendly
fabrics, to One Earth, a direct sales outfit
with merchandise sourced through
partnerships with overseas artisans,
there are alternatives. Companies
that identify as sustainable or ethical
usually indicate that their products are
made with minimal exploitation of the
environment, workers, or both. In some
cases, they even outline a clear intent to
produce quality, versatile items to reduce
the need for added consumption.
Ethical and sustainable product
lines also tend to be more expensive.
For today’s budget-minded shopper,
this is a major obstacle towards
change. “Consumers are still very
much motivated by price and the
thrill of getting a good deal,” says Jane
Gragtmans, founder of Didi Bihini, a
Canadian fair trade gifts wholesaler.
And the stats back her up. While clothing
sales grew in volume between 2004 and
2015, the cost of clothing decreased
during the same period.
What about fair trade–
certified clothing?
If you thought finding ethical clothing
was already tricky, finding fair
trade–certified options is even more
difficult. For a variety of reasons, small
companies looking to make their mark
in sustainable fashion aren’t often
pursuing certification. Some lack
the resources. Others simply don’t fit
the fair trade model. For example, a
company that turns discarded fabrics
into limited edition collections doesn’t
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