Jeweller - April Issue 2017
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OFFICIAL MAGAZINE FOR THE<br />
JEWELLERS ASSOCIATION OF AUSTRALIA<br />
APRIL <strong>2017</strong><br />
www.jewellermagazine.com<br />
Tick tock<br />
MAKING SENSE OF THE FAST-PACED<br />
FASHION WATCH ARENA<br />
Opal revival<br />
+ +<br />
LOCAL CONSUMERS ARE SHOWING<br />
A NEWFOUND PENCHANT FOR OPAL<br />
Pairing up<br />
SECRETS TO STRIKING A PROFITABLE<br />
BUSINESS COLLABORATION
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MAKING SENSE OF THE FAST-PACED<br />
FASHION WATCH ARENA<br />
OFFICIAL MAGAZINE FOR THE<br />
JEWELLERS ASSOCIATION OF AUSTRALIA<br />
LOCAL CONSUMERS ARE SHOWING<br />
A NEWFOUND FONDNESS FOR OPAL<br />
APRIL <strong>2017</strong><br />
www.jewellermagazine.com<br />
SECRETS TO STRIKING A PROFITABLE<br />
BUSINESS COLLABORATION<br />
CONTENTS<br />
APRIL <strong>2017</strong><br />
18/<br />
25/<br />
30/<br />
FEATURES REGULARS BUSINESS<br />
18/ RIGHT ON TIME<br />
Making sense of the market shifts<br />
keeping fashion watches on trend.<br />
25/ OPAL RECOVERY<br />
The industry is no longer content<br />
typecasting opal as a cheap souvenir.<br />
30/ PERFECT MATCH<br />
A national treasure has found itself<br />
a new home in South Australia.<br />
32/ PARTING WAYS<br />
Why <strong>Jeweller</strong> will no longer provide<br />
financial backing to the JAA.<br />
9/ Editorial<br />
11/ Upfront<br />
12/ News<br />
16/ New Products<br />
37/ Gems<br />
Revealing inclusions: emerald<br />
38/ JAA Executive Director’s<br />
report<br />
39/ JAA Member’s profile<br />
48/ My Bench<br />
50/ Soapbox<br />
Brent Weatherall wonders what<br />
fruit and flowers have in common<br />
with jewellery.<br />
41/ Business feature<br />
Pair up with others for profit,<br />
advises Francesca Nicasio.<br />
43/ Selling<br />
Thomas Young offers tips for<br />
improving trust.<br />
45/ Management<br />
Marian Thier outlines the seven<br />
traits of a proficient listener.<br />
46/ Marketing<br />
Never underestimate the power of<br />
networking, reports David Brown.<br />
47/ Logged On<br />
There are four SEO mistakes to<br />
avoid, states Chris Ashton.<br />
Tick tock<br />
Opal revival<br />
+ +<br />
Pairing up<br />
Front cover description:<br />
Opal is gaining fame and status<br />
within the local market.<br />
<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 5
The only buying<br />
group that returns<br />
all profits to its<br />
members.<br />
It’s been our way for 35 very successful years.<br />
tellmemore@showcasejewellers.com.au<br />
Profit is just one benefit our members realise from their partnership<br />
with Showcase <strong>Jeweller</strong>s. Other Showcase member benefits include;<br />
• The industry’s most generous supplier discounts going directly to members<br />
• Market leading business systems designed with retail in mind<br />
• A Diamond Specialist working for members and<br />
access to exclusive diamond brands<br />
• No monthly management fee
COLOUR<br />
IS VITAL<br />
THE VITAL SOURCE FOR NATURAL FANCY<br />
YELLOW DIAMONDS<br />
Wales Corner<br />
Suite 1204, 227 Collins Street<br />
Melbourne Victoria 3000<br />
Australia<br />
Ph: (03) 9639 1008<br />
Fax: (03) 9639 0179<br />
sales@vitaldiamonds.com.au<br />
www.vitaldiamonds.com.au<br />
OVER 35 YEARS EXPERIENCE IN DIAMOND MANUFACTURING AND WHOLESALING
EDITORIAL<br />
THE END OF A 20-YEAR RELATIONSHIP<br />
This issue marks the end of <strong>Jeweller</strong>’s<br />
two-decade alliance with the JAA.<br />
For more than 20 years this magazine has<br />
been a major financial contributor to the<br />
association as well as providing non-cash<br />
support; however, I called JAA president<br />
Selwyn Brandt on February 9 to advise<br />
him that we would not be renewing our<br />
sponsorship agreement.<br />
Late last year the JAA asked to begin<br />
discussions about a new contract so Brandt<br />
was understandably surprised by my phone<br />
call. He asked if the decision not to renew<br />
could be reviewed. I informed him that<br />
we had completed an industry survey in<br />
which we polled 200 jewellery retailers –<br />
JAA members and non-members – about<br />
industry topics, including their views on the<br />
JAA. The results would not please him, I said.<br />
Indeed I told Brandt that the outcome of<br />
the survey played a significant part in our<br />
decision to quit the JAA and, as a result, our<br />
decision was final.<br />
It is no secret that many people in the<br />
industry believe the JAA has lost its way.<br />
One indicator of that is the association’s<br />
declining membership. More importantly,<br />
however, are the names of the businesses<br />
that are quitting the JAA after decades of<br />
uninterrupted and loyal membership.<br />
For the record, we had already decided to<br />
conduct an industry survey so adding a few<br />
questions about the JAA wasn’t a big step<br />
and I would be surprised if anyone can put a<br />
positive spin on the results. For a start, how<br />
is it that only 62 per cent of members agree<br />
that the JAA is “recognised and respected for<br />
excellence and trusted leadership”?<br />
Why isn’t that figure 90 per cent or above?<br />
I have already detailed the wider survey<br />
findings online – and now here starting<br />
on page 32 – so what follows are additional<br />
results not previously published. But first:<br />
the most recent turmoil in which the JAA<br />
finds itself follows the announcement to cut<br />
ties with Expertise Events to create and run<br />
a competing tradeshow this year.<br />
Not only was the JAA foregoing more than<br />
$100,000 in cash sponsorship from Expertise<br />
Events for, effectively, doing nothing, but the<br />
decision also caused an industry rift because<br />
suppliers and buying groups were suddenly<br />
being forced to decide between two fairs on<br />
the same days in the same city.<br />
The resulting backlash and division has been<br />
widely reported yet the fallout continues to<br />
this day, which begs the question of how the<br />
JAA management didn’t foresee the perfect<br />
storm the decision would create?<br />
After all, when announcing the decision<br />
in May 2016, JAA executive director<br />
Amanda Hunter said she had “detailed<br />
research, analysis and discussion” about<br />
its new <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Tradeshow. Then JAA<br />
vice president Laura Sawade was also<br />
emphatic: “There has been an overwhelming<br />
HOW IS IT<br />
THAT ONLY<br />
62 PER CENT<br />
OF MEMBERS<br />
AGREE THAT<br />
THE JAA IS<br />
“RECOGNISED<br />
AND<br />
RESPECTED FOR<br />
EXCELLENCE<br />
AND TRUSTED<br />
LEADERSHIP”?<br />
WHY ISN’T<br />
THAT FIGURE<br />
90 PER CENT OR<br />
ABOVE?<br />
amount of support from the industry when<br />
researching this idea.” That was news to<br />
almost everyone in the industry, especially<br />
to major suppliers as well as buying groups.<br />
Leading Edge knew nothing about the<br />
new show and it, along with Nationwide<br />
<strong>Jeweller</strong>s, polled their members and the<br />
JAA show got the big thumbs down, so it’s<br />
unclear who Hunter and Sawade surveyed.<br />
We know who we surveyed and our research<br />
shows that JAA members are resolute in<br />
their view that the industry does not need<br />
a second trade fair on the same days as the<br />
traditional fair – more than 90 per cent of<br />
respondents voted against it. Furthermore,<br />
85 per cent were in favour of Darling Harbour<br />
as the preferred site for the fair. Just one<br />
per cent voted for Moore Park, the JAA’s<br />
nominated venue!<br />
How could Brandt, Hunter and Sawade –<br />
who has since left the industry – get it so<br />
wrong? If that’s not already a slap in the face,<br />
fewer than 30 per cent of members believed<br />
the JAA should risk membership funds by<br />
operating its own commercial ventures.<br />
That aside, the very first question Hunter<br />
and Sawade should have researched was<br />
whether it’s the job of the JAA to be running<br />
a jewellery tradeshow in the first place.<br />
Only 43 per cent of its own members believe<br />
it should. Damning really!<br />
Coleby Nicholson<br />
Managing Editor<br />
<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 9
Call for entries to the prestigious<br />
<strong>Jeweller</strong>y Design Awards.<br />
With over $80,000 in prizes,<br />
it’s a call not to be missed.<br />
The winner of the ‘Supreme Award’ will receive two business class tickets and four night’s accommodation to Baselworld 2018, and a full page<br />
advertisement in The Australian Women’s Weekly magazine*. Designers may enter as many categories as they wish.<br />
Each category entered into requires a separate application and each entry incurs a $50 fee. This fee includes entry to the Awards evening for one<br />
person per entry. Finalists will be showcased in an interactive display at the International <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Fair <strong>2017</strong> at ICC Sydney.<br />
This is also where the Fair Visitors’ Choice Award will be decided.<br />
Entries close June 1st, <strong>2017</strong> – Visit www.jewelleryfair.com.au to enter<br />
• 1ST & 2ND YEAR APPRENTICE/STUDENT<br />
• 3RD & 4TH YEAR APPRENTICE/STUDENT<br />
• FAIR VISITOR CHOICE<br />
INSTITUTE OF AUSTRALIA<br />
JEWELLERY<br />
JIA<br />
JEWELLERY INSTITUTE OF AUSTRALIA ®<br />
• MEN’S ACCESSORIES & JEWELLERY<br />
• AUSTRALIAN OPAL AWARD<br />
• PEARL AWARD<br />
• BRIDAL AWARD<br />
• CAD/CAM/CAST AWARD<br />
• PRECIOUS METAL AWARD<br />
• COLOURED GEMSTONE AWARD<br />
• DIAMOND AWARD<br />
• SUPREME AWARD WINNER – The entry that receives<br />
the highest point score out of all of the finalists will be<br />
determined as the ‘Supreme Award Winner’<br />
*Insertion at the discretion of The Australian Women’s Weekly.<br />
INTERNA TIONAL<br />
JEWELLERY FAIR<br />
AUGUST 26 > 28, <strong>2017</strong><br />
INTERNATIONAL CONVENTION CENTRE SYDNEY<br />
Organised by
UPFRONT<br />
“To an older<br />
demographic<br />
possibly but the<br />
trend for some<br />
time now is more<br />
towards smart<br />
technology and<br />
social media<br />
when looking<br />
to purchase.”<br />
Are catalogues still relevant in the jewellery industry?<br />
TREVOR LESTER,<br />
LESTER’S<br />
MANUFACTURING<br />
JEWELLER<br />
BULLETIN BOARD<br />
n SHINE ON<br />
With diamond the official birthstone of<br />
<strong>April</strong>, Diamond Producers Association<br />
CEO Jean-Marc Lieberherr’s advice<br />
couldn’t be more relevant. Lieberherr<br />
told Rapaport News that retailers<br />
should think about the experience<br />
they provide customers and ask if it is<br />
‘worthy’ of diamonds. “We all need to<br />
challenge ourselves to do justice to the<br />
diamonds we are selling,” he explained.<br />
n SMALL IS BEAUTIFUL<br />
Less is more when it comes to store<br />
size in <strong>2017</strong>, according to retail<br />
software provider Vend. Evolving<br />
consumer preferences mean smallerformat<br />
stores are key. Customers no<br />
longer want to waste time wandering<br />
around the endless aisles of enormous<br />
stores; they want the ease and<br />
efficiency that online shopping brings.<br />
n GOOD SUGGESTION<br />
Facebook is making it easier to<br />
recommend businesses. The new<br />
recommendations feature recognises<br />
when a user creates a post asking for<br />
suggestions like where they can find<br />
a product or service. Friends are able<br />
to comment on the post and perform<br />
tasks like tagging a store’s page.<br />
“I believe that<br />
catalogues work<br />
to a lesser degree<br />
these days. Young<br />
people are all about<br />
Facebook and<br />
Instagram, where<br />
the more mature<br />
customer still<br />
likes to receive<br />
a catalogue.”<br />
DIGITAL<br />
BRAINWAVE<br />
ANTOINETTE CROSS,<br />
ANTOINETTE’S<br />
SHOWCASE JEWELLERS<br />
“We don’t use<br />
catalogues; we have<br />
always focused on<br />
social media and<br />
other forwardthinking<br />
strategies<br />
to stand out from<br />
the crowd, so I’m not<br />
sure if they still work.”<br />
SANDRA<br />
GREENBERGER,<br />
LESKE’S JEWELLERS<br />
PAY ATTENTION<br />
Retailers should look at how they can increase<br />
a person’s viewing time on websites – the longer<br />
someone remains on a website, the more time<br />
business owners have to convince, connect and<br />
convert them into customers. Eric Siu, CEO of digital marketing agency Single Grain,<br />
revealed on entrepreneur.com seven ways to make consumers stay longer, including<br />
adding video, in-depth guides and articles as well as a related post section. “Content<br />
should amaze, inspire or educate, but it should never be boring,” Siu said. “Video,<br />
podcasts, graphics, charts and reports can all take centre stage in your strategy.”<br />
TOP PRODUCT<br />
Sams Group Australia’s 0.27-carat, oval cut vivid pink diamond was sourced from<br />
the Argyle diamond mine in the East Kimberley region of Western Australia. The stone<br />
was the most popular product last month ranked by views at jewellermagazine.com.<br />
www.jewellermagazine.com<br />
Managing Editor<br />
Coleby Nicholson<br />
Editor<br />
Emily Mobbs<br />
emily.mobbs@jewellermagazine.com<br />
Journalist<br />
Talia Paz<br />
talia.paz@gunnamattamedia.com<br />
Advertising Manager<br />
Gary Collins<br />
gary.collins@jewellermagazine.com<br />
Digital Manager<br />
Angela Han<br />
angela.han@gunnamattamedia.com<br />
Production Manager<br />
& Graphic Design<br />
Jo De Bono<br />
art@gunnamattamedia.com<br />
Accounts<br />
accounts@gunnamattamedia.com<br />
Subscriptions<br />
info@jewellermagazine.com<br />
<strong>Jeweller</strong> is published by:<br />
Gunnamatta Media Pty Ltd<br />
Locked Bag 26, South Melbourne,<br />
VIC 3205 AUSTRALIA<br />
ABN 64 930 790 434<br />
Phone: +61 3 9696 7200<br />
Fax: +61 3 9696 8313<br />
info@gunnamattamedia.com<br />
Copyright: All material appearing<br />
in <strong>Jeweller</strong> is subject to copyright.<br />
Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly<br />
forbidden without prior written consent<br />
of the publisher.<br />
Disclaimer: <strong>Jeweller</strong> is the official magazine<br />
of the <strong>Jeweller</strong>s Association of Australia<br />
(JAA). The views and opinions expressed<br />
in <strong>Jeweller</strong> do not necessarily reflect those<br />
of the JAA and opinions expressed by<br />
authors are not necessarily those of the<br />
publishers or the JAA. All statements<br />
made, although based on information<br />
believed to be reliable and accurate at<br />
the time, cannot be guaranteed and no<br />
fault or liability can be accepted for<br />
error or omission.<br />
Gunnamatta Media Pty Ltd strives to<br />
report accurately and fairly and it is our<br />
policy to correct significant errors of fact<br />
and misleading statements in the next<br />
available issue. Any comment relating to<br />
subjective opinions should be addressed<br />
to the editor where the opposing position<br />
will be published on the letters pages to<br />
encourage open debate. The publisher<br />
reserves the right to omit or alter any<br />
advertisement and the advertiser agrees<br />
to indemnify the publisher for all<br />
damages or liabilities arising from the<br />
published material.<br />
<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 11
NEWS<br />
Michael Hill hit by 20-second robbery<br />
While there have been a spate of daytime<br />
armed attacks on independent jewellery<br />
stores in Melbourne, it would appear that<br />
chain stores located in shopping centres<br />
are now also in the firing line.<br />
The Michael Hill store at Westfield Plenty<br />
Valley in Mill Park was robbed just before<br />
midday on March 14.<br />
CCTV footage showed four people smashing<br />
display glass cabinets and filling bags with<br />
jewellery before fleeing the shopping centre<br />
in an alleged stolen vehicle. The incident<br />
took about 20 seconds and the robbers<br />
were reportedly armed with hammers.<br />
A Victoria Police statement issued on March<br />
17 confirmed that four men aged between<br />
19 and 27 years old were arrested in relation<br />
to the alleged armed robbery and car theft.<br />
At the time of publication, detectives were<br />
searching for a fifth man in relation to the<br />
armed robbery.<br />
The incident follows a series of brazen<br />
heists taking place at independent jewellery<br />
businesses across Melbourne in <strong>2017</strong>.<br />
Victoria Police did not respond to <strong>Jeweller</strong>’s<br />
request for comment regarding whether<br />
the Michael Hill incident was related to<br />
these previous jewellery store robberies.<br />
Institute to revive specialised skills<br />
A new jewellery institute has opened in<br />
an effort to provide the local industry with<br />
greater access to specialised skills training.<br />
The Sydney-based <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Institute of<br />
Australia (JIA) offers short training courses<br />
with a focus on hand engraving, diamond<br />
setting, micro-pave setting, 3D CAD design<br />
and laser welding.<br />
According to founder Gabriel Owen, the JIA<br />
was established because he saw a gap in the<br />
market for a school where jewellers could<br />
advance their skills in niche areas.<br />
“After attending the Alexandre School<br />
for Optical Diamond Setting in Belgium, I<br />
started to look into teaching organisations<br />
WORK BENCHES IN THE JIA TRAINING ROOM<br />
here in Australia,” Owen explained. “I found<br />
that there were no advanced classes for<br />
micro-pave setting and hand engraving.”<br />
In addition to conducting his own courses,<br />
Owen said ‘masters’ would also teach classes.<br />
‘Significant’ synthetics discovery<br />
IN BRIEF<br />
*<br />
DIGITAL JEWELLERY LESSONS<br />
Research company L2’s latest annual<br />
Digital IQ Index: Watches & <strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />
report detailed the digital strengths and<br />
weaknesses of 70 watch and jewellery<br />
brands. Tiffany & Co and Cartier were the<br />
only companies to receive the highest<br />
score of ‘genius’ status; 16 placed in the<br />
second best category of ‘gifted’, including<br />
Swarovski, Pandora and Alex and Ani.<br />
*<br />
$10,000 JAA DONATION<br />
The JAA has received a $10,000<br />
anonymous donation to be used in<br />
support of a student or apprentice<br />
jeweller. A JAA statement read: “The<br />
donation came with a request that the<br />
JAA put the funds towards an initiative<br />
that fosters the skills and talent of an<br />
entrant to a Student/Apprentice category<br />
at the <strong>2017</strong> JAA <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Awards.”<br />
*<br />
AUSSIE MAKES PARIS DEBUT<br />
Australian jewellery graduate Jessica<br />
McMaster garnered international<br />
exposure following the unveiling of her<br />
collection at an exhibition held during<br />
Paris Fashion Week. The N°10 Showroom<br />
has been described as a platform to assist<br />
emerging designers and is attended<br />
by buyers of independent fashion and<br />
accessory stores and department stores.<br />
*<br />
RARE GREEN DIAMONDS<br />
Merlin Diamonds has announced the<br />
discovery of five green diamonds – the<br />
largest weighing 1.4 carats – at the Merlin<br />
diamond mine. This follows news of a<br />
35.26-carat brown rough being found in<br />
January <strong>2017</strong> and a 0.124-carat blue stone<br />
being found in December 2016.<br />
The Gemological Institute of America (GIA)<br />
recently uncovered a ‘significant’ amount<br />
of undisclosed synthetic melee diamonds<br />
mixed with natural melee stones.<br />
A GIA spokesperson confirmed to <strong>Jeweller</strong><br />
that almost one third of the diamonds in<br />
a parcel submitted to the organisation’s<br />
Melee Analysis Service in Mumbai, India<br />
were chemical vapour disposition (CVD)<br />
synthetic stones.<br />
GIA director of research and development<br />
Wuyi Wang told the Rapaport Group’s<br />
diamonds.net that the GIA regularly<br />
identified small quantities of undisclosed<br />
synthetic melee diamonds in parcels<br />
submitted for analysis; however, he stated<br />
this was the first time “such a significant<br />
percentage” of CVD melee mixed with<br />
natural melee had been found.<br />
No further details on what had transpired<br />
since the discovery were provided.<br />
+ MORE BREAKING NEWS<br />
JEWELLERMAGAZINE.COM<br />
*<br />
ICONIC STORE CLOSES<br />
Melbourne jewellery store Kozminsky<br />
has closed after 165 years of operation,<br />
with remaining stock selling at a Leonard<br />
Joel auction. The $1.23 million sale was<br />
reportedly the most valuable singleowner<br />
jewellery auction held in Australia.<br />
The highest-selling items were a sapphire<br />
and diamond ring and an art deco riviere<br />
necklace, which each sold for $27,280.<br />
12 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong>
NEWS ANALYSIS<br />
Investigating<br />
the jewellery<br />
landscape<br />
A QUALITATIVE STUDY OF AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERS HAS REVEALED A NUMBER<br />
OF INSIGHTS ABOUT THE STATE OF THE INDUSTRY. EMILY MOBBS REPORTS.<br />
hile many would agree that the retail industry has never been<br />
easy, it would appear that recent market conditions have been<br />
particularly difficult. There will always be businesses that perform<br />
well above trends but general consensus from research conducted<br />
by various industry organisations as well as anecdotal evidence suggests that<br />
retail trading, and specifically that for jewellery stores, has been flat at best.<br />
As <strong>Jeweller</strong> reported in February this year, feedback from a cross-section of<br />
the industry revealed that Christmas trading in 2016 was on par with, or just<br />
below, that of 2015. In addition, most jewellers and industry organisations did<br />
not believe conditions would change in <strong>2017</strong> – the ‘new normal’ was a phrase<br />
constantly used.<br />
In order to gain a better understanding of the state of the industry, <strong>Jeweller</strong><br />
recently conducted an in-depth qualitative survey involving 200 Australian<br />
jewellery retailers.<br />
The survey was comprehensive, polling jewellers with a wide range of stores<br />
nationally. Retailers were asked about a series of issues including business<br />
turnover and profitability as well as industry challenges.<br />
RESEARCH RESULTS REVEALED<br />
Supporting <strong>Jeweller</strong>’s earlier reports about trading results during the festive<br />
period was the fact that of those surveyed, approximately 42 per cent stated<br />
their Christmas and New Year trading in 2016/<strong>2017</strong> had decreased compared<br />
with the corresponding period the year before (See Chart 1 on page 14).<br />
Only 29 per cent of respondents said trading had increased, while a similar<br />
number indicated it was the same as the previous year.<br />
Taking a longer-term view, Chart 2 on page 14 shows that about one third<br />
of jewellers had increased annual revenue over the past three years; however,<br />
the more concerning figure was the greater number – 66.5 per cent – who<br />
said annual revenue had remained the same or decreased, at 32.5 and 34 per<br />
cent respectively.<br />
The results in Chart 3 on page 14 are noteworthy, recognising that a business’<br />
profitability can decrease at the same time that its annual revenue increases.<br />
When asked about their store profitability over the past three years, almost 73<br />
per cent of jewellers stated that profitability had decreased or remained the same,<br />
whereas about 27 per cent believed their profit had increased.<br />
<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 13
NEWS ANALYSIS<br />
CHART 1. QUESTION: WHEN THINKING ABOUT YOUR CHRISTMAS/NEW YEAR TRADING<br />
IN 2016/<strong>2017</strong> COMPARED TO THE PREVIOUS YEAR, HAS IT…<br />
Most interesting was how few people nominated ‘cheap imports’ as a major<br />
challenge, something that would arguably have gained more prominence<br />
five to 10 years ago.<br />
DECREASED<br />
41.75%<br />
29.13%<br />
29.13%<br />
INCREASED<br />
SAME<br />
What’s more, retail leasing costs and landlord negotiations – which has<br />
traditionally been a challenging issue for jewellers – was not highly mentioned.<br />
PROVIDING ADDITIONAL INDUSTRY ANALYSIS<br />
While <strong>Jeweller</strong> acknowledges the survey results can be interpreted in different<br />
ways and may only represent a snapshot of the industry, further analysis<br />
conducted by software and consulting business Retail Edge Consultants (REC)<br />
showed similar findings.<br />
CHART 2. QUESTION: WHEN THINKING ABOUT YOUR TRADING OVER THE PAST THREE<br />
YEARS, DO YOU THINK ANNUAL REVENUE HAS...<br />
Michael Dyer, sales manager of REC, said the data of more than 300 stores in<br />
Australia and New Zealand that REC monitored indicated that although there<br />
were businesses reporting same trading or increased trading during the most<br />
recent Christmas and New Year period, the overall findings showed a decrease<br />
on the previous year.<br />
DECREASED<br />
33.98%<br />
33.50%<br />
32.52%<br />
INCREASED<br />
SAME<br />
Dyer also explained that REC’s analysis found an overall increase in sales dollars<br />
during the 2014 and 2015 calendar year but a 1 per cent to 2 per cent decrease<br />
in the 12-month comparison between the 2015 and 2016 calendar year.<br />
In terms of gross profit dollars, Dyer stated that an overall increase was recorded<br />
in the 12 months between the 2014 and 2015 calendar year, while a 2 per cent<br />
to 3 per cent decrease occurred between the 2015 and 2016 calendar year.<br />
When asked how he would describe the current local jewellery retail landscape,<br />
Dyer said ‘challenging’; however, added that there would always be some retailers<br />
who saw opportunity where others saw adversity.<br />
CHART 3. QUESTION: WHEN THINKING ABOUT YOUR BUSINESS PROFITABILITY OVER<br />
THE PAST THREE YEARS, DO YOU THINK IT HAS…<br />
He believed that the internet was arguably the latest major disruptor in the<br />
industry since the introduction of GST, and while most retailers weren’t averse<br />
to adapting to change, there was no denying that the pressure of continuity and<br />
shortening frequency of changes were making conditions increasingly difficult.<br />
DECREASED<br />
34.47%<br />
27.18%<br />
INCREASED<br />
“Retail has and always will be challenging; there are no ‘free rides’,” Dyer said,<br />
adding, “Whilst the retail outlets – in the world of bricks or clicks – grow at a<br />
rate greater than the population and its ability to consume product, there will<br />
be more migration of sales rather than overall growth.”<br />
38.35%<br />
SAME<br />
According to Dyer, the consulting side of REC had recently increased and the<br />
main business challenges currently highlighted by clients included generating<br />
sales while preserving margin, as well as controlling stock levels.<br />
The interesting observation comes about when comparing Chart 2 and<br />
Chart 3 – 33.5 per cent of those surveyed stated they had increased annual<br />
revenue over the past three years, while only 27 per cent had become more<br />
profitable during the same period. Increased revenue does not always translate<br />
into increased profitability.<br />
The survey also polled jewellers on the biggest challenges impacting business,<br />
and perhaps not surprisingly, many respondents were concerned about the<br />
effect of the internet. Although this question was free-form – multiple choice<br />
answers were not listed – about 63 per cent of those surveyed nominated the<br />
internet as the biggest challenge impacting business.<br />
Competition, the economy and a decrease in demand for jewellery – including<br />
changing spending preferences and a cautious spending mentality – rounded<br />
out the top four challenges faced by jewellery retailers.<br />
NEW CHALLENGES FOR CONSIDERATION<br />
Dyer added that stock management was now more complex because consumers<br />
expected to receive product on their terms.<br />
“Historically, retailers may have stopped buying stock to ‘trade’ their way out<br />
of cash flow issues,” he said. “[However] in a consumer market that is very ‘now’<br />
driven, being out of fast-seller, consumer-demand product could inadvertently<br />
push customers to competitors.<br />
“Fast-sellers are oxygen to the sales and cash flow of a retail business, and if you<br />
don’t have them that won’t stop customers buying them, it will just stop them<br />
buying them from you.”<br />
The challenges facing the jewellery retail industry are varied, and if Dyer’s analysis<br />
and the results from <strong>Jeweller</strong>’s survey are any indication, store owners and<br />
managers would be wise to recognise that the ‘new normal’ has changed the<br />
business landscape, which, in turn, will require a review of existing practices. i<br />
14 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong>
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PERNILLE<br />
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OUMA CHAIN<br />
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16 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong>
WEST END COLLECTION<br />
18 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong>
FASHION WATCHES<br />
On<br />
on<br />
time and<br />
trend<br />
THE UBIQUITOUS FASHION WATCH IS AS POPULAR AS EVER BUT IT’S CRUCIAL<br />
FOR JEWELLERS TO STAY IN TUNE WITH MARKET SHIFTS TO ENSURE THIS<br />
RELIABLE ITEM REMAINS LUCRATIVE. ANGELA TUFVESSON REPORTS.<br />
n jewellery circles, the fashion watch is somewhat of an anomaly –<br />
it isn’t timeless; it’s not immune to passing fads; it’s not passed down<br />
through generations. Instead, the fashion watch is unashamedly a sign of<br />
the times, a trend vehicle that uses lifestyle cues to project identity and<br />
it seems consumers can’t get enough of these affordable timepieces.<br />
Over the past few years, there has been an upward shift in consumer<br />
demand for fashion watches characterised by understated styles.<br />
The brash, blingy watches of the past have been replaced by sleek, simple<br />
designs that reflect authentic lifestyles. This trend shows no signs of abating<br />
so it’s essential that jewellers keep up with subtle market changes that are<br />
altering the way consumers purchase fashion watches.<br />
Here’s a taste of what’s in store for fashion watches.<br />
CONSUMER DEMAND<br />
Sleek, utilitarian designs from the likes of Daniel Wellington are as popular<br />
as ever, according to John Rose, general manager of West End Collection,<br />
which distributes the brand along with others including Christian Paul<br />
and Olivia Burton.<br />
“There is no doubt that the ‘bling’, which was so popular a few years back,<br />
is no longer on trend,” Rose says. “Simple, classic styling is where the market<br />
is experiencing its greatest success at the moment. Daniel Wellington<br />
embodies classical minimalism perfectly.”<br />
Indeed, Rose notes that Daniel Wellington achieved a 56 per cent increase<br />
in sales in Australia and New Zealand in 2016.<br />
The versatility inherent in simple designs is a major selling point of fashion<br />
watches, states Simon Garber, director of Cluse distributor Heart & Grace.<br />
“Classic minimalist styles seem to be more popular than ever,” Garber<br />
says. “The versatility of simple design is key and, with colour-coordinated<br />
interchangeable straps in leather or stainless steel mesh, there is the appeal<br />
of being able to match with any outfit and style.”<br />
David Faraday, managing director of Oozoo Timepieces and Dukudu<br />
distributer Hipp, agrees.<br />
“Because they’re classic and versatile, [fashion watches are] able to be worn<br />
with a greater variety of outfits. They make a strong statement about the<br />
wearer’s good taste while still being understated,” he says.<br />
Of course, the market isn’t stagnant and there are noticeable changes in<br />
some areas.<br />
“There’s been a shift towards more variations in colour, textures and<br />
materials such as mother of pearl and coloured leather straps,” Faraday adds.<br />
Jeanette Sceats, managing director of Pierre Cardin supplier Instyle Watches,<br />
says although understated, simple styles remain strong, the brand’s latest<br />
iterations have been injected with stylish accents.<br />
“The minimalist, chic-yet-simple watch has continued to take the lead in<br />
the market,” Sceats states, adding, “Pierre Cardin watches have evolved these<br />
particular styles with mirrored dials and crystal accents.”<br />
Rose says the most significant new trend that has occurred in the past 12<br />
months is the emergence of patterned dials, which can be seen in brands<br />
such as Olivia Burton and Ted Baker.<br />
“This new feminine take on watch design is influenced by floral patterns that<br />
top designers are showing on catwalks in New York, Paris and London,” he<br />
explains. “It gives the watch a personal touch and exemplifies the concept that<br />
a watch is a fashion accessory and an expression of your own personal style.”<br />
<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 19
INSTYLE WATCHES<br />
HEART & GRACE<br />
At the other end of the spectrum, Sceats<br />
says gender-neutral styles are also popular.<br />
“<strong>Jeweller</strong>s are focusing on more of a unisex<br />
style – styles that have that ability to cross<br />
over from male to female are striking in<br />
minimalistic design with a point of detail. This<br />
also opens the style to a broader audience.”<br />
SIZE MATTERS<br />
Big isn’t always better and, along with<br />
stocking sleek and simple designs, Garber<br />
says jewellers should pay particular attention<br />
to changing size preferences, especially<br />
among women’s watches.<br />
“Over the past year, we’ve noticed the<br />
beginning of a move from the popular,<br />
oversized women’s watch to smaller styles,”<br />
he explains. “The shift began with fashionforward<br />
designers primarily in Europe, and<br />
now we see them becoming more popular<br />
in the wider market here in Australia and<br />
New Zealand.<br />
“As there is increasing demand for smaller<br />
faces in fashion watches, it’s important<br />
jewellers offer the most popular colour<br />
combinations in the smaller face sizes as<br />
well as the proven oversized styles.”<br />
Garber says Cluse offers two smaller<br />
variations to the popular 38 mm diameter<br />
case: 33 mm and 24 mm.<br />
Ken Abbott, managing director of<br />
Timesupply, which distributes Danish<br />
Design and Jacob Jensen, agrees.<br />
metal or mesh bracelets for women.<br />
GOING SOCIAL<br />
No discussion about fashion watches is<br />
complete without mentioning the industry’s<br />
most significant branding tool: Instagram.<br />
It’s hard to remember how suppliers and<br />
retailers marketed to the masses before the<br />
advent of the photo-sharing behemoth.<br />
“For the younger generation, Instagram is<br />
the new Westfield – consumers look to<br />
Instagram to be inspired, informed and to<br />
shop,” says Phil Edwards, managing director<br />
of Duraflex Group Australia, which distributes<br />
brands including Jag, Police and Thomas<br />
Sabo. Along with a desire for personalisation<br />
and status, Edwards says Duraflex has<br />
identified technology as one of the biggest<br />
trends influencing the choices consumers<br />
make about fashion watches.<br />
Larry Porter, CEO of Ice Australasia, which<br />
distributes Ice-Watch and Henry London,<br />
says social media platforms like Instagram<br />
are powerful because they create brand<br />
awareness as well as boost sales.<br />
Just as consumer preferences and watch<br />
styles change, so too does the way<br />
consumers use Instagram. Claire Beale,<br />
program manager of the Bachelor of Arts<br />
(Textile Design) at RMIT University, says<br />
endorsements by average people – or<br />
minor celebrities who purport to be vaguely<br />
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“Watch diameters have stabilised at a<br />
more user-friendly size and we are seeing<br />
increased sales with Danish Design in<br />
smaller-sized cases, particularly for women’s<br />
watches,” he says.<br />
To keep up with this trend, Abbott suggests<br />
jewellers carry 40 mm case sizes for men<br />
and women in a variety of styles and colours,<br />
along with a collection of smaller cases with<br />
TIMESUPPLY
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average – increasingly carry more weight<br />
now than paid celebrity endorsements.<br />
“Social media is replacing a whole lot of other<br />
traditional marketing channels,” Beale says.<br />
“People are living the life and self-reporting<br />
what they like, and it’s something that<br />
consumers are much more likely to put trust<br />
in and believe.<br />
“A platform like Instagram that focuses on<br />
quality images and short text seems more<br />
reliable as something you can interpret<br />
yourself. If you’re following someone on<br />
Instagram that you really like and they say<br />
they got a fantastic new watch last week,<br />
you’re already picturing yourself as being<br />
part of that person’s lifestyle.”<br />
Indeed, when model Kendall Jenner<br />
posted an image of herself wearing a<br />
Daniel Wellington watch to her 75 million<br />
Instagram followers, the image received<br />
2.7 million likes and 113,700 comments.<br />
The result? West End Collection sold out<br />
of the timepiece within 24 hours.<br />
Closer to home, Rose says Australian brands<br />
such as Christian Paul, which has a ‘huge’<br />
local social media following, are also able<br />
to influence consumer behaviour directly<br />
through Instagram.<br />
“Christian Paul reaches over one million<br />
of their target market through their social<br />
network for a product launch, which leads<br />
to immediate sales at store level,” he says.<br />
As for other popular forms of social media,<br />
Faraday says Facebook is still relevant<br />
and Snapchat is huge with the younger<br />
demographic but Instagram should be the<br />
top priority for retailers.<br />
“Social media and especially Instagram is<br />
key in reinforcing trends,” he states.<br />
LOOKING AHEAD<br />
Looking further ahead, Beale says external<br />
factors are likely to have a significant impact<br />
on how consumers make purchasing<br />
decisions about fashion watches.<br />
Crucially, she says a global shift towards<br />
conservatism is driving a sense of nostalgia<br />
for the past. This is resulting in less appetite<br />
for edgy designs or watches that step outside<br />
the status quo.<br />
“If you look at what’s going on in the world<br />
economically and politically, we’re quite<br />
destabilised,” she says.<br />
“It’s a pattern we saw in the last recession and<br />
after the fall of communism, cycles in history<br />
where long-established ways collapsed and<br />
we become uncertain about the future. When<br />
this happens, consumers become distrustful<br />
of the unusual, which means designers are<br />
less likely to take risks.”<br />
Consumers are likely to favour strong design,<br />
simplicity and affordability, which Faraday<br />
says is good news for jewellers selling<br />
fashion watches.<br />
“Money is generally<br />
tighter these days<br />
and consumers are<br />
conscious of their<br />
spending, which propels<br />
them towards fashion<br />
watches that can deliver<br />
the look of the day<br />
and help consumers<br />
accessorise and refresh<br />
their outfit with<br />
relatively little expense,”<br />
he says. “You get a lot of<br />
fashion bang for your<br />
buck with a well-chosen<br />
fashion watch.” i<br />
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OPAL REPORT<br />
DF OPALS<br />
An opal<br />
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AFTER YEARS OF<br />
TYPECASTING AS A CHEAP<br />
TOURIST SOUVENIR,<br />
COULD THE OPAL NOW<br />
BE RECEIVING REVERED<br />
FAME AND STATUS AMONG<br />
AUSTRALIANS? EMILY<br />
MOBBS INVESTIGATES.<br />
pal has caused division within the industry for years. It’s a regular fixture<br />
in the jewellery collections of high-end luxury brands and often resides<br />
in the pages of magazines and online style editorials, yet has been<br />
relegated in Australia to ‘tacky’ tourist stores and duty-free outlets.<br />
Aussies might be known for their patriotism but they are reluctant to embrace<br />
their national gemstone. That is until now, according to Atheka Le Souëf, director<br />
of Melbourne-based retail store Lightning Ridge Opal Mines.<br />
“The gemstone has actually become a lot more popular with Australians and<br />
there has definitely been an increase in opal sales within the local market over<br />
the past four years,” Le Souëf states, specifically citing black and boulder opal in<br />
both finished jewellery and loose gemstones as good sellers.<br />
Le Souëf attributes this surge in demand to recent media exposure: “There was a<br />
lot of media attention probably about four years ago and I think that heightened<br />
the profile of opal within the local market.”<br />
Scott Coggan, manager and opal cutter at Sunshine Coast-based Opals Down<br />
Under, agrees.<br />
“Over the past six to seven years our domestic sales have increased enormously,”<br />
he explains.<br />
Coggan, who acknowledges that the business has invested in significant<br />
marketing during this time, says opal engagement rings are a standout,<br />
particularly with consumers aged around 25 to 30 years old.<br />
“I think the younger generation is looking for an individual piece rather than the<br />
standard diamond,” he says, adding, “Opal is a softer gemstone so what many<br />
are doing is wearing their wedding ring on an everyday basis and treating their<br />
engagement rings more like a dress ring.”<br />
<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 25
JOHN FORD. IMAGE COURTESY<br />
AUSTRALIAN OPAL EXHIBITION<br />
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Coggan also comments on the popularity of<br />
free-form boulder opal pendants set in gold.<br />
It’s not only opal specialist retailers who<br />
are noticing a rise in demand. Rick Stearns,<br />
director of Stearns Showcase <strong>Jeweller</strong>s in<br />
Bendigo, Victoria, says he has also noticed<br />
an increased interest in opal jewellery in<br />
the past two years.<br />
Stearns has sold opal jewellery for about<br />
30 years but admits he only recently started<br />
giving the category special attention.<br />
Unsurprisingly, it was at this time that<br />
demand surged.<br />
“We saw an opening,” he states. “No one<br />
else was doing it because a lot of jewellers<br />
just don’t carry opal but, once we started<br />
to expand the range, the market just grew.”<br />
Stearns says expanding his product variety<br />
played a big role in stimulating sales: “You<br />
can’t sell what you don’t have. We weren’t<br />
selling a lot of opal in the past because we<br />
never had a lot of different pieces; however,<br />
once we put in a full range of it with<br />
earrings, pendants and rings, all of a sudden<br />
there was some interest.”<br />
The store carries the Firegem Australian<br />
Opal range, distributed by Paterson Fine<br />
<strong>Jeweller</strong>y. Stearns says all jewellery pieces<br />
in the range are popular but adds that ring<br />
sales are particularly higher than what they<br />
have been in the past.<br />
OTHER OPTIONS<br />
Black and boulder opal remain firmly<br />
ingrained in this gemstone’s narrative but<br />
triplet opal – typically defined as a thin<br />
slice of opal sandwiched between a black<br />
backing and a clear dome-shaped capping<br />
– is also finding its niche, according to<br />
Paterson Fine <strong>Jeweller</strong>y managing director<br />
David Paterson.<br />
“We have been selling opal jewellery for<br />
more than 70 years and the demand has<br />
never been higher for us,” Paterson says.<br />
“Triplet opals have always been second<br />
cousins to the main market, featuring<br />
Australian boulder (QLD) and black opal<br />
(NSW); however, these gemstones have<br />
become very popular in Europe and<br />
Asia and the prices have been driven up<br />
accordingly,” he explains.<br />
Paterson says price rises have meant more<br />
expensive pieces are now often out of the<br />
realms of the independent retailer, thus<br />
giving rise to a greater popularity and<br />
demand in triplet opals.<br />
“Boulder and black opals will always have<br />
their strong place in the market, especially<br />
for custom-made pieces, but triplet opal<br />
jewellery is now much more common in<br />
readily-available stock and retail collections,”<br />
he states.<br />
Dennie Fickling, director of DF Opals,<br />
suggests doublet opal – comprising a slice<br />
of opal with a black backing – is another<br />
option for retailers to consider.<br />
“Doublet opal is a good entry-level opal<br />
piece for the first-time opal buyer,” Fickling<br />
explains, adding, “I have had customers<br />
that have purchased a doublet opal piece<br />
and then later they want a solid, natural<br />
piece. I think doublet opals are very good<br />
as long as they are looked after and are<br />
sold as doublet opals.”
Fickling, who he has been selling loose opals for a “long time” and<br />
began selling boulder and doublet opal jewellery about five years<br />
ago, says most of his loose opal stock is sold overseas but adds that<br />
he is starting to sell more jewellery in Australia.<br />
“I don’t really know why this is the case,” he states. “I think the<br />
jewellery store owners are starting to give opal a go and it seems<br />
to be working.”<br />
INVEST IN KNOWLEDGE<br />
Le Souëf says jewellers stocking or considering opal jewellery<br />
need to appreciate the importance of investing in education.<br />
“Opal is not like a diamond that can be easily quantified; opal can<br />
be quite subjective in a lot of ways so you do need quite a lot of<br />
experience to correctly identify it and value it in order to sell it<br />
properly,” she says, warning that incorrect valuations can damage<br />
the industry. “If people are sold an item they think is worth a lot<br />
of money when actually it isn’t, this will have a negative impact<br />
on the image of opal.”<br />
One supplier focusing on educating retailers and the endconsumer<br />
is Opals Australia, which has a branded-jewellery offering<br />
comprising more than 1,000 jewellery designs in 18-carat gold,<br />
14-carat gold and sterling silver.<br />
According to Opals Australia national accounts manager Clayton<br />
Peer, the main reason for developing a brand as opposed to selling<br />
unbranded product is because it is one of the most effective ways<br />
to provide education about Australian opal jewellery.<br />
Peer says Opals Australia stockists receive numerous support tools<br />
and services to help increase sales.<br />
“These include, but are not limited to, a variety of display stands,<br />
fantastic easy-to-follow training materials for staff education, a large<br />
selection of professional photography to be used as advertising<br />
support and a website that holds thousands of jewellery designs for<br />
easy ordering,” he explains.<br />
Peer adds that Opals Australia’s range performs well in the Australian<br />
opal-producing regions of<br />
Lightning Ridge and Coober<br />
Pedy where “Baby Boomers are<br />
experiencing the many sights that<br />
Australia has to offer”.<br />
He admits that there is still a large<br />
PATERSON FINE JEWELLERY
THE WORLDS<br />
MOST ELITE<br />
& INCLUSIVE<br />
OPAL EXPERIENCE<br />
SHOWCASING THE<br />
EXQUISITNESS OF<br />
AUSTRALIA’S<br />
NATIONAL GEMSTONE<br />
The <strong>2017</strong> Exhibition presents an<br />
opportunity to view the largest and most<br />
amazing range of opal and opal jewellery<br />
seen in one attractive location.<br />
Thursday<br />
3rd August <strong>2017</strong><br />
9.00 am - 5.00 pm<br />
& Friday<br />
4th August <strong>2017</strong><br />
9.00 am - 4.00 pm<br />
Australian<br />
OPAL<br />
EXHIBITION<br />
QT Gold Coast<br />
7 Staghorn Avenue<br />
Surfers Paradise<br />
Queensland 4217<br />
Australia<br />
Opal fun facts<br />
Why not share these snippets with customers?<br />
n No two opals are identical; the proud<br />
owner can delight in the fact that their<br />
gemstone is unique<br />
n Opal is the official birthstone of<br />
October and is used to mark the 14th<br />
year of marriage<br />
n It is believed opal derived its name<br />
from the Roman word ‘opalus’<br />
n Opal is a form of hydrated silica<br />
number of jewellers and consumers who<br />
have little to no knowledge of Australia’s<br />
national gemstone.<br />
Maxine O’Brien, coordinator of the annual<br />
Australian Opal Exhibition and secretarymanager<br />
of the Lightning Ridge Miners’<br />
Association, believes it will take time before<br />
any opal publicity results in noticeable local<br />
retail sales.<br />
“The domestic market caters mainly to<br />
international tourists; however, I do believe<br />
opal has lost its negative connotations<br />
in Australia due to a rise in international<br />
jewellery designers using Australian opal<br />
and winning international awards,” she says.<br />
“Australian jewellery designers are creating<br />
beautiful works and this will hopefully<br />
translate into more sales over time,” O’Brien<br />
adds. “In the past, Australians related opal<br />
to a tourist souvenir and were never really<br />
exposed to high-end gemstones or fine<br />
opal jewellery but this is changing and<br />
social media will continue to have a<br />
n Australian opal was reportedly<br />
discovered by German geologist<br />
Johannes Menge in Angaston,<br />
South Australia in 1849<br />
n While found in small amounts from<br />
other countries such as Brazil, Ethiopia<br />
the US and Mexico, Australian opal is<br />
widely considered to be the finest<br />
and brightest in the world<br />
major impact as Australians come to<br />
appreciate the spectacular beauty of<br />
their national gemstone.”<br />
Similar to Coggan, Paterson states that<br />
young consumer demographics are<br />
spearheading the opal hype.<br />
“Our experience has been that the younger<br />
generation are leading the revival because<br />
of the colourful nature of the gemstone, the<br />
story that the gemstone has and its rarity,”<br />
he says. “It will always be a popular tourist<br />
product because 98 per cent of all opal is<br />
mined in Australia and the two per cent that<br />
is mined overseas has poor, incomparable<br />
colour. Also, new jewellery trends are all<br />
about colour and difference and what better<br />
gemstone to feature than Australian opals.”<br />
While opal jewellery might not be on the<br />
wish-list of every Australian right now,<br />
there’s no denying that tides are turning.<br />
<strong>Jeweller</strong>s would do well to pay this category<br />
some attention because, as Stearns says,<br />
“You can’t sell what you don’t have.” i<br />
TRADE ONLY<br />
Contact: Maxine O’Brien,<br />
Australian Opal Exhibition Inc.<br />
PO Box 731 Lightning Ridge<br />
NSW 2834 Australia<br />
T: 0427 920 474<br />
International<br />
T: +61 427 920 474<br />
F: +61 2 6829 0830<br />
E: mail@austopalexpo.com.au<br />
www.austopalexpo.com.au<br />
DF OPALS<br />
OPALS AUSTRALIA
Creating Timeless Memories<br />
PERSONALISED<br />
PENDANTS
FIRE OF AUSTRALIA<br />
Aussie opal<br />
on fire<br />
FIRE OF AUSTRALIA OPAL<br />
ONE OF THE WORLD’S MOST VALUABLE OPALS HAS JUST BEEN PLACED<br />
IN A NEW HOME. ANGELA TUFVESSON CHARTS THE JOURNEY OF THE FIRE OF<br />
AUSTRALIA FROM 1940S MINING MARVEL TO NATIONAL TREASURE.<br />
t was 1946, a time of post-war euphoria – Ben Chifley was Australia’s<br />
prime minister, King George VI headed up the monarchy and the baby<br />
boom was just beginning. After two world wars and the Great Depression,<br />
things were finally looking up.<br />
Opal miner Jack Bartram, a farmer who had been forced off his land during the<br />
depression, saw huge potential at the recently-discovered Eight Mile field in<br />
Coober Pedy, South Australia. He suggested his children and their families join<br />
him in the region to try their luck.<br />
Eight Mile proved to be a prolific field for many, including the Bartram family.<br />
The epitome of their success was the discovery by Jack’s son Walter Bartram of<br />
an almost 5,000-carat, 998-gram opal dubbed the Fire of Australia. According<br />
to the Federal Government’s Department of Communications and the Arts, the<br />
Fire of Australia is valued at an estimated $900,000 and believed to be the most<br />
valuable piece of rough opal in existence.<br />
The gemstone’s exceptional quality is said to be highlighted by its vibrant<br />
colour, which changes from green to yellow to red – a rare opal hue –<br />
depending on the angle from which it is viewed. There is no known example<br />
of another gemstone of this size consisting entirely of gem-quality opal, a<br />
statement released by the Department of Communications and the Arts notes.<br />
“Even though there have been large finds in other areas, this was the initial<br />
and most significant find in the opal industry in South Australia at that time,”<br />
says Walter’s son Alan Bartram, who also works in the family trade. “It was quite<br />
shallow ground and they were able to mine virtually from the surface<br />
down to about 14 feet.”<br />
THE BARTRAM FAMILY TRIUMPH<br />
Alan Bartram states most people working in the area were successful to some<br />
extent; however, his family was ‘very’ successful.<br />
“[Artist and author] Jack Absalom, in one of his programs, referred to the Bartram<br />
brothers at the Eight Mile at Coober Pedy taking it [opal] away in banana crates<br />
at that time,” he says. “To some extent that wasn’t too exaggerated.”<br />
The Fire of Australia remained untouched, apart from the polishing of two faces<br />
to reveal its quality, and in the Bartram family for the next 70 years.<br />
Alan Bartram explains that the gemstone was initially kept in his parent’s house<br />
before it was placed on display in the family’s former jewellery store The Opal<br />
Mine in Adelaide. The opal also spent time in a bank safety deposit.<br />
Following Walter Bartram’s death and after witnessing the increasing popularity<br />
of the opal in overseas exhibitions, the family decided to transfer it to the South<br />
Australian Museum in Adelaide early this year for a ‘reduced’ rate of $500,000.<br />
The goal was to secure the opal’s legacy in Australia and prevent it from<br />
overseas buyers who might cut it into smaller gemstones.<br />
“In thinking about why we retained it, it was more or less the centre of our<br />
business,” Alan Bartram says. “It’s an inspiring piece and, although I’ve been<br />
30 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong>
a trader for 55 years and I’ve been exposed<br />
to an awful lot of opal in that time, nothing<br />
has exceeded this one.<br />
“We are very happy the South Australian<br />
Museum could purchase the Fire of<br />
Australia opal at a much-reduced rate. It<br />
was what we wanted because it is so South<br />
Australian and it reflects the outstanding<br />
nature of this piece.”<br />
Unsurprisingly, South Australian Museum<br />
mineral collections manager Ben McHenry<br />
is pleased with the latest acquisition, which<br />
was made possible by a $455,000 Federal<br />
Government grant.<br />
“South Australia is known as the opal<br />
capital of the world because we have<br />
produced up to 80 per cent of the world’s<br />
precious opal, so it’s quite important for the<br />
South Australian Museum to actually have<br />
representative material of our state and<br />
national gemstone,” McHenry explains.<br />
“It’s the finest piece of quality opal rough<br />
found in existence,” he says of the Fire of<br />
Australia, “and it’s an Australian national<br />
treasure. It’s for all Australians to see<br />
whereas, if it were in private hands, it would<br />
be sitting in somebody’s safe somewhere. It<br />
would be a shame if something as amazing<br />
as this was kept out of the public domain.”<br />
McHenry states the Fire of Australia was<br />
hugely popular among the general public<br />
at a recent exhibition conducted by the<br />
museum and also enjoyed pride of place<br />
in the museum foyer until the end of<br />
February. The gemstone now resides in the<br />
museum’s permanent opal collection.<br />
NATIONAL TREASURES<br />
Of course, Australia is blessed with opal<br />
riches and the Fire of Australia is not the<br />
country’s only celebrated gemstone.<br />
The Olympic Australis, which was also<br />
unearthed at Eight Mile field and is now<br />
housed in Sydney store Altmann and<br />
Cherny, is reported to be the largest and<br />
most valuable gem-quality opal ever found.<br />
It weighs 3.45 kg and 17,000 carats and was<br />
valued at $2.5 million in 2005.<br />
McHenry says the Bartram family’s legacy<br />
complements the museum’s other treasure,<br />
the Virgin Rainbow, which is said to be the<br />
world’s most valuable cut and polished opal.<br />
“It’s nice to have two of the best pieces of<br />
opal ever found, [and we hope] to have<br />
an opal gallery here at the museum in the<br />
future,” he says.<br />
There’s no doubt opals and opal jewellery<br />
have battled negative connotations<br />
in Australia but Wayne Sedawie, a<br />
spokesperson for the Opal Association,<br />
says public display of the Fire of Australia<br />
will help to improve the perception and<br />
value of opals locally.<br />
“Opals mostly go to America, China, Russia<br />
and lots of other countries but not Australia,”<br />
he says. “Having and promoting this opal<br />
is brilliant; it’s educational for Australians<br />
as they don’t know about opals. The<br />
compound effect of putting it on display<br />
for the public means people will talk about<br />
it and may decide to visit Coober Pedy and<br />
possibly buy opals.”<br />
As any jeweller selling any kind of<br />
gemstone knows, this is a rare imagebuilding<br />
trifecta. i<br />
ALAN BARTRAM ON BARTRAM ST, COOBER PEDY<br />
THE FIRE OF AUSTRALIA IS PRIZED FOR VIBRANCY<br />
SamsGroup.com.au<br />
Sale@samsgroup.com.au<br />
02 9290 2199
PARTING<br />
ways with the JAA<br />
THIS MONTH MARKS THE END OF JEWELLER’S<br />
20-YEAR RELATIONSHIP WITH THE JAA. HERE,<br />
COLEBY NICHOLSON EXPLAINS WHY THE FINANCIAL<br />
BACKING OF THE ASSOCIATION WILL NOT CONTINUE.<br />
fter 20 years of ‘sponsoring’ the <strong>Jeweller</strong>s Association of Australia (JAA),<br />
Gunnamatta Media, publisher of <strong>Jeweller</strong>, has decided to not renew its<br />
publishing contract. Given the magazine has supported the JAA since<br />
1996 with substantial financial backing, we believe it appropriate to<br />
provide an explanation for the reasons this course of action was taken.<br />
While two detailed explanations about the decision have been made on<br />
<strong>Jeweller</strong>’s website, it’s also important to publish a printed record.<br />
Since I launched Australian <strong>Jeweller</strong> – as it was known back then – more than<br />
two decades ago, the magazine has provided financial support to the JAA with<br />
cash and ‘in kind’ – marketing-related services, such as advertising space – to<br />
the tune of hundreds of thousands of dollars.<br />
Such sponsorship agreements for industry associations are not unusual; the JAA<br />
receives financial support from Marsh Advantage Insurance and, until last year, it<br />
also received substantial financial payment from Expertise Events, the organiser<br />
of the International <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Fair (IJF) and the Australian <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Fair.<br />
Each of these agreements began at a different time and for different reasons<br />
and yet each company would have made its decision in the belief that<br />
businesses that service an industry should also support that industry.<br />
I know the management of <strong>Jeweller</strong> believed that and I have no doubt Marsh<br />
and Expertise Events would have had similar views. Industry associations<br />
effectively have two major sources of income – membership fees, which<br />
represent their core activity, and sponsorship income in various forms. The job<br />
of an industry association is, first and foremost, to represent its members.<br />
With the current five-year contract concluding this month, the JAA requested<br />
to begin negotiations on a new agreement late last year.<br />
CONTINUING MEMBERSHIP DECLINE<br />
It’s no secret that <strong>Jeweller</strong>, and many others in the industry, have been<br />
concerned about the management and direction of the JAA for some time.<br />
All associations and businesses have blips along the way but the number of<br />
people who have raised concern about the JAA’s direction and some of its<br />
decisions has become too many to ignore.<br />
It’s also no secret that membership has been falling year-on-year to the extent<br />
that, according to the JAA’s own financial reports, at one point annual staff costs<br />
became greater than annual membership income.<br />
I have previously called for changes at the JAA – in late 2014, I wrote that the<br />
32 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong>
JAA CONTRACT<br />
previous two to three years had been an<br />
inglorious period for the JAA office and I<br />
called for an independent review of the CEO<br />
position following the decision not to renew<br />
the contract of former CEO Ian Hadassin.<br />
There was no independent review of the<br />
JAA office and structure. Instead, in June<br />
2014, the JAA appointed Amanda Hunter<br />
as its executive director.<br />
Hunter said she would “bring strong<br />
business skills to manage the organisation<br />
and take it forward strategically”.<br />
She added that, “Growing the JAA whilst<br />
helping the members also grow their<br />
businesses is very appealing and fits<br />
well with my past coaching and salesmanagement<br />
experience.”<br />
I acknowledged a few months into her<br />
tenure that Hunter had gotten off to a<br />
good start but also noted the strong<br />
industry expectation that a fresh-faced<br />
industry outsider was necessary to reunite<br />
a somewhat fractious industry and<br />
reinvigorate the trade.<br />
Nearly three years after Hunter’s<br />
appointment, where are we now?<br />
Well, membership continues to decline<br />
and many long-term retail and supplier<br />
businesses have deserted the JAA for a<br />
number of different reasons.<br />
A YEAR TO FORGET<br />
Looking back, last year did not start well.<br />
In February the JAA announced the 2016<br />
edition of its biennial Australasian <strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />
Awards then cancelled them just one<br />
month later because of lack of sponsorship.<br />
It was an embarrassing decision because<br />
the JAA had two years to secure the<br />
sponsorship and failed, in part because<br />
the 2014 Awards night was not perceived<br />
as a glowing showcase of the industry. It<br />
should be noted that the JAA steadied and<br />
recently announced the <strong>2017</strong> Awards with<br />
a list of sponsors.<br />
Alas, worse was to come. In May, after a<br />
25-year affiliation with Expertise Events, the<br />
JAA informed the industry that it would run<br />
its own trade fair in direct competition with<br />
the Expertise Events show. Not only did the<br />
JAA walk away from a guaranteed $100,000<br />
in cash sponsorship plus additional noncash<br />
support, but its decision also caused<br />
a major rift among suppliers and retailers.<br />
Suppliers were now being asked to exhibit<br />
at two fairs on the same days in the same<br />
city to service the same buyers.<br />
Understandably, they were up in arms.<br />
Many complained that the JAA, a<br />
membership-based association, had<br />
overnight become a trade-fair business<br />
and were thereby putting member’s funds<br />
at risk with a large commercial venture.<br />
Additionally, several people asked whether<br />
the JAA had the resources or infrastructure<br />
to run a tradeshow given its small staff.<br />
It was a bold gamble because it meant<br />
the JAA must generate a substantially<br />
larger profit than $100,000 just to be in the<br />
same position with the Expertise Events<br />
sponsorship, and for which it had to do,<br />
effectively, nothing.<br />
A media release issued on May 23 about<br />
the ‘<strong>2017</strong> JAA <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Fair’ declared, “This<br />
landmark announcement is being delivered<br />
amidst great excitement, after detailed<br />
research, analysis and discussion by the<br />
JAA board and executive director.”<br />
That announcement started a legal battle<br />
between lawyers for the JAA and Expertise<br />
Events. In fact, having announced that it<br />
had “undertaken detailed research, analysis<br />
and discussion”, the JAA quickly had to<br />
rename its event ‘JAA <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Tradeshow’<br />
because of legal issues over the name.<br />
So much for detailed research and analysis!<br />
Suppliers and all three buying groups<br />
were rightly worried about the effect<br />
of the dispute on the then upcoming<br />
2016 Sydney IJF; Nationwide <strong>Jeweller</strong>s<br />
and Leading Edge Group <strong>Jeweller</strong>s both<br />
announced to members that the respective<br />
groups would make a decision about<br />
the <strong>2017</strong> trade fair after the 2016 Sydney<br />
show. Showcase <strong>Jeweller</strong>s had previously<br />
announced attendance at the JAA<br />
<strong>Jeweller</strong>y Tradeshow.<br />
Things went quiet for a few months leading<br />
up the 2016 IJF and then all hell broke<br />
loose once the fair concluded.<br />
On September 7, following extensive<br />
consultation with its members and<br />
suppliers, Nationwide declared that<br />
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JAA CONTRACT<br />
the only location appropriate for a jewellery fair was at the International<br />
Convention Centre, Darling Harbour – the site of Expertise Events’ IJF –<br />
rather than the former Sydney Showground, Moore Park – the site of<br />
the JAA <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Tradeshow.<br />
Leading Edge made a similar announcement the subsequent day.<br />
THE INDUSTRY FALLOUT BEGINS<br />
Although Nationwide announced its decision to members and suppliers<br />
late on September 7, it had informed the JAA earlier that day, ahead of the<br />
scheduled board meeting on September 8.<br />
This was done because Nationwide managing director Colin Pocklington was<br />
also a JAA board member and he felt it was important for the JAA to know<br />
about the decision before the board meeting to avoid any conflict of interest.<br />
Pocklington did not attend the board meeting, which allowed the board to<br />
freely discuss the ramifications.<br />
This is the point where the industry went into freefall. On the day of the<br />
board meeting, Pocklington reflected on the situation and his position as a<br />
board member and decided that it would be appropriate to resign to avoid<br />
any future conflict of interest, given that the JAA would need to focus on<br />
launching its new trade fair.<br />
Pocklington advised Hunter of his resignation on the morning of September 9.<br />
Later on that same day, Pocklington said he received email correspondence<br />
from the board that contained allegations about his professional reputation<br />
that he found “offensive”. He subsequently resigned from his other JAA<br />
positions on the Code Committee and National Industry Advisory Council.<br />
Legal action ensued.<br />
Not content with that outcome, the JAA issued a media release on September<br />
29 titled ‘JAA Board replies to resignation of director’.<br />
It alleged a “further conflict of interest” by Pocklington and was ‘signed’ by<br />
JAA president Selwyn Brandt, vice president Laura Sawade (now resigned)<br />
and executive director Amanda Hunter.<br />
Nationwide immediately consulted with its lawyers and then declared<br />
that Australasia’s largest buying group would quit the JAA after 25 years<br />
of continuous membership.<br />
This resulted in a wave of support for Pocklington and Nationwide from its<br />
members and well-known suppliers criticising the JAA and/or declaring they<br />
would also cancel their memberships. As many as 100 Nationwide members<br />
are also members of the JAA – well, at least at that time.<br />
In addition, many suppliers told me in confidence they could not believe<br />
the JAA’s attack on Pocklington and would also cancel their memberships.<br />
MAKING A FINAL DECISION<br />
This brought Gunnamatta Media to a point where we had to make a decision<br />
about whether we, as publisher of <strong>Jeweller</strong>, should continue to help finance and<br />
support an industry association that is not only in decline but also has split the<br />
industry with a series of misguided decisions.<br />
Prior to making a final decision, <strong>Jeweller</strong> undertook a qualitative survey of 200<br />
jewellery retailers – 100 JAA members and 100 non-JAA members – to help<br />
understand the state of the industry.<br />
The survey was extensive, polling jewellers about a wide range of issues<br />
including business turnover and profitability, challenges facing retailers – see<br />
page 13 – the issue of two jewellery trade fairs, as well as their views on the JAA.<br />
TABLE 1. QUESTION: The JAA is recognised and respected as an<br />
organisation for excellence and trusted leadership in the jewellery<br />
industry. Agree, disagree or undecided?<br />
TYPE AGREE DISAGREE UNDECIDED<br />
JAA MEMBER 62% 20% 18%<br />
NON MEMBER 43% 27% 30%<br />
OVERALL 52.43% 23.30% 24.27%<br />
TABLE 2. QUESTION: Thinking about your annual JAA membership fee,<br />
how would you describe it as value for money?<br />
VERY GOOD GOOD ACCEPTABLE POOR VERY POOR<br />
6.93% 27.72% 44.55% 18.81% 1.98%<br />
TABLE 3. QUESTION: Thinking about how the JAA supports your<br />
business, are you…<br />
VERY<br />
SATISFIED<br />
SATISFIED NEUTRAL DISSATISFIED<br />
VERY<br />
DISSATISFIED<br />
0.99% 37.62% 46.53% 10.89% 3.96%<br />
TABLE 4. QUESTION: Thinking about your JAA member benefits over<br />
the past three years, would you say they have…<br />
INCREASED SAME DECREASED<br />
15.84% 74.26% 9.90%<br />
TABLE 5. QUESTION: The JAA is my first point of contact for<br />
business advice?<br />
TYPE AGREE DISAGREE UNDECIDED<br />
JAA MEMBER 17% 80% 3%<br />
NON MEMBER 22% 68% 10%<br />
OVERALL 19.37% 73.91% 6.72%<br />
TABLE 6. QUESTION: The JAA is my first point of contact for best<br />
practice business advice?<br />
TYPE AGREE DISAGREE UNDECIDED<br />
JAA MEMBER 23% 72% 5%<br />
NON MEMBER 27% 63% 10%<br />
OVERALL 24.72% 67.57% 7.71%<br />
34 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong>
After collating and analysing the survey information, the results<br />
played a major part in the decision to end our 20-year financial<br />
sponsorship of the JAA.<br />
One notable finding, as outlined in Table 1, is the response received<br />
when asked about the Vision and Mission Statement listed on the JAA<br />
website. The results show that only 62 per cent of the JAA members<br />
surveyed agree that their own association is recognised and<br />
respected for excellence and trusted leadership.<br />
While it is unreasonable to believe that any industry association<br />
would achieve a 100 per cent ‘agree’ on such a question, surely the<br />
result should be above 90 per cent by anyone’s reckoning.<br />
Put another way, 38 per cent of its own members are undecided or<br />
do not agree that their professional association can be relied upon<br />
for excellence and trusted leadership in the jewellery industry.<br />
The figure is understandably worse among non-members, with only<br />
43 per cent agreeing with the statement. This means only half of the<br />
jewellery retailers surveyed believe the JAA is achieving its vision to<br />
be recognised and respected for excellence and trusted leadership.<br />
Recognising that statistics can be read in various ways, what should<br />
concern the JAA – given membership numbers are in decline – is<br />
that about 21 per cent of the JAA members surveyed view their<br />
membership fee as ‘poor’ or ‘very poor’ value for money, while about<br />
45 per cent rank it as ‘acceptable’, as shown in Table 2.<br />
Another question that should be a major concern for the JAA is<br />
that of those surveyed, less than 40 per cent of members are satisfied<br />
with how the JAA supports their business, as outlined in Table 3.<br />
These two results may go a long way to explaining the decline in<br />
membership in recent years.<br />
Finally, Table 4 shows that the majority of JAA respondents – 74 per<br />
cent – believe that there has been no significant change in member<br />
benefits over the past three years.<br />
What is outlined here is only some of the research conducted;<br />
other questions achieved similar results (see Table 5, Table 6 and<br />
jewellermagazine.com), and therefore, after extensive internal<br />
consideration and external consultation, Gunnamatta Media decided<br />
it could no longer support an association that is in continual dispute<br />
and disagreement with its own retail members, its own supplier<br />
members, its financial sponsors and even its own board members.<br />
The money we will save on JAA sponsorship played no part in<br />
the decision and over the coming months we will be looking to<br />
re-divert our financial sponsorship dollars to another cause, perhaps<br />
supporting jewellery apprentices.<br />
The JAA’s ‘perfect storm’ did not happen overnight, or even over<br />
the past 12 months; the disunity among its own retail and supplier<br />
members, financial sponsors, board members and resigning<br />
members goes a long way to explaining the survey results and,<br />
eventually, our decision to end <strong>Jeweller</strong>’s financial sponsorship. i<br />
The earlier detailed reports and explantions can be found on<br />
jewellermagazine.com.
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My clients place value on my<br />
qualifications and as a result<br />
my sales have increased<br />
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Chris Holdsworth<br />
Holdsworth Bros <strong>Jeweller</strong>s<br />
Melbourne, VIC<br />
Diploma in<br />
Diamond Technology<br />
Starting Dates:<br />
New South Wales: 2 May <strong>2017</strong><br />
Now Enrolling - Closing Soon<br />
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Now Enrolling - Closing Soon<br />
Limited Places Still Available<br />
Practical Diamond<br />
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Enrolments are Now Open:<br />
Adelaide: 1 - 5 May <strong>2017</strong><br />
Monday to Friday 9.00 am - 5.00 pm<br />
Perth: 30 <strong>April</strong> - 22 May <strong>2017</strong><br />
Sunday and Mondays - All Day 6 Sessions<br />
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Sydney: 19 June -September/October <strong>2017</strong><br />
15 Weeks, Monday Evenings 6.15 pm - 8.30 pm<br />
Melbourne: 2 May - August <strong>2017</strong><br />
15 Weeks Tuesday Evenings 6.30 pm – 9.00 pm<br />
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ENROL EARLY – Limited Class Sizes<br />
NOW IS THE BEST TIME TO<br />
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For more information<br />
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www.gem.org.au
GEMS<br />
FASCINATING EMERALD INCLUSIONS<br />
in emeralds from other countries, including<br />
Australia. Figure 3 shows an example of a<br />
spiky three-phase inclusion from Torrington<br />
in New South Wales.<br />
With appropriate lighting, brightly-coloured<br />
liquid films parallel to the basal pinacoid<br />
are found in many natural beryls, including<br />
emerald. Crystals such as biotite mica,<br />
phlogopite, calcite, pyrite, actinolite and many<br />
others may be also discovered as inclusions.<br />
Emeralds are also subjected to various<br />
treatments, such as oiling, fracture filling and<br />
dyeing, in order to lessen the appearance<br />
of cracks; surface cracks and cavities may be<br />
in-filled with plastic, epoxy, or wax, again to<br />
reduce the visibility of surface area flaws.<br />
They may be coated with such products as<br />
lacquer, paint or stain to enhance their colour.<br />
FIGURE 1. SYNTHETIC FLUX EMERALD FIGURE 2. HYDROTHERMAL EMERALD FIGURE 3. NATURAL EMERALD<br />
Understanding emerald inclusions<br />
is a vital part of the sales process.<br />
JUNE MACKENZIE reports.<br />
Emeralds differ from corundum mineral –<br />
known for ruby and sapphire – which has<br />
the same refractive index (RI) and specific<br />
gravity (SG) regardless of being natural or<br />
synthetic. The RI and SG for emerald generally<br />
vary between synthetic flux, synthetic<br />
hydrothermal and natural gemstones so<br />
these constants can point a gemmologist in<br />
the right direction when observing inclusions.<br />
With set gemstones it may be possible to<br />
obtain the RI but not the SG and, as the RI<br />
for the flux-grown emerald is lower than<br />
for hydrothermal and natural gemstones,<br />
this is helpful information when viewing<br />
the inclusions.<br />
The RI for hydrothermal emeralds is higher<br />
than flux and generally lower than the natural<br />
gemstones, although they may overlap.<br />
Again, this is a guideline for recognising<br />
the types of inclusions visible.<br />
Flux-grown synthetics may have coarse or<br />
fine flux inclusions, often opaque (Figure<br />
1). They may be wispy and are not liquid. In<br />
contrast, hydrothermal inclusions may consist<br />
of liquid feathers, sometimes in a spiral shape.<br />
They may present as roiled to angular growth<br />
zoning, appearing as ‘chevron’ shapes, or the<br />
growth zoning may appear as a slightly wavy,<br />
undulating pattern (Figure 2). If a synthetic<br />
hydrothermal emerald has been grown in a<br />
gold-lined crucible, gold inclusions may be<br />
found. To date, no gold inclusions have been<br />
found in natural emeralds.<br />
Natural emeralds from different locations<br />
present different types of inclusions. While<br />
some may contain two or three-phase<br />
inclusions, the spiky three-phase inclusions<br />
were thought to be diagnostic for Colombian<br />
emeralds but these have since been found<br />
NATURAL<br />
EMERALDS<br />
FROM DIFFERENT<br />
LOCATIONS<br />
PRESENT<br />
DIFFERENT TYPES<br />
OF INCLUSIONS<br />
In summary, natural emeralds from different<br />
locations generally provide evidence of<br />
different inclusions and synthetic emeralds<br />
made by different processes exhibit different<br />
inclusions from one another as well as from<br />
natural gemstones.<br />
Retailers need to be aware that some<br />
treatments greatly affect the price of a<br />
gemstone. The Australian Competition<br />
and Consumer Commission (ACCC) states<br />
that businesses in Australia must be able<br />
to guarantee what they sell.<br />
If gemstones are treated, this must be<br />
disclosed to the purchaser and written<br />
on their receipt.<br />
So if a natural emerald has been dyed to<br />
enhance colour, for example, this must be<br />
written on the receipt whether the seller is<br />
a supplier or a retailer. i<br />
June Mackenzie FGAA Dip DT, is a qualified<br />
gemmologist and gemmology teacher in NSW.<br />
She is the developer and presenter of the GAA<br />
Advanced Gemstone Inclusions course.<br />
For more information, visit: gem.org.au<br />
<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 37
JAA REPORT<br />
WHAT THE JAA IS DOING FOR YOUR INDUSTRY<br />
It has been a busy first two months of<br />
<strong>2017</strong>, with many developments coming to<br />
fruition and a variety of projects underway<br />
that promise to be of great relevance to the<br />
industry and members that we represent.<br />
First, I wish to welcome Jo Tory to the <strong>2017</strong><br />
JAA Board of Directors. Jo has a 30-year<br />
strong career at the helm of Najo where<br />
she is the managing and creative director.<br />
In addition to her extensive business<br />
experience, Jo brings with her a wealth of<br />
industry knowledge, especially in the field of<br />
marketing and a passion for the Australian<br />
jewellery community. Jo attended the first JAA<br />
Board meeting of the year held on Thursday<br />
February 9 and we are looking forward to<br />
forging ahead into <strong>2017</strong> with Jo who will<br />
no doubt be a valuable member to the<br />
JAA Board.<br />
On January 24, the JAA in conjunction with<br />
Victoria Police held a productive and wellreceived<br />
security seminar in Melbourne.<br />
This resulted from discussions in late 2016<br />
to assist retailers to liaise closely with lawenforcement<br />
agencies. The event sold out<br />
due to substantial industry interest in light<br />
of an unfortunate spate of armed robberies<br />
targeting jewellery stores in Victoria.<br />
The event provided attendees with useful<br />
information and tips outlining how to keep<br />
their business secure and what to do in the<br />
event of a robbery. This information was then<br />
disseminated to our members nationally. Our<br />
Victorian Branch Committee is coordinating<br />
liaisons and workgroups to further this<br />
important collaboration.<br />
On February 14, the prestigious JAA<br />
Australasian <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Awards were<br />
announced for <strong>2017</strong>. The Awards are a<br />
ON JANUARY<br />
24, THE JAA IN<br />
CONJUNCTION<br />
WITH VICTORIA<br />
POLICE HELD<br />
A PRODUCTIVE<br />
AND WELL-<br />
RECEIVED<br />
SECURITY<br />
SEMINAR IN<br />
MELBOURNE<br />
celebration of industry talent that showcases<br />
exceptional pieces across several categories.<br />
This year sees the inclusion of a new category<br />
Contemporary/Non-Precious, which will allow<br />
contestants to enter pieces made from nonprecious<br />
and organic materials. This will allow<br />
a greater range of talented individuals to enter<br />
this esteemed industry-endorsed program<br />
that has run since 1968.<br />
Exciting developments are ahead for the <strong>2017</strong><br />
JAA <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Tradeshow set for August this<br />
year. We have added a few new attractions<br />
to our list of exclusive offerings available to<br />
visitors and exhibitors.<br />
The Young <strong>Jeweller</strong>s Group will be supporting<br />
this industry run event and will host their<br />
ever-popular Design and Manufacturing<br />
Championships in a live arena. Contestants<br />
will have the chance to compete under<br />
four categories - engraving, settings,<br />
manufacturing, and CAD-technician. The<br />
Young <strong>Jeweller</strong>s Group has an impressive<br />
online following of talented jewellery<br />
professionals and the JAA is delighted that<br />
they are exclusively supporting the <strong>2017</strong><br />
JAA <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Tradeshow.<br />
The JAA is building industry run projects<br />
to further strengthen the Association so that<br />
in future years the JAA has a strong revenue<br />
base to enable membership fees to remain<br />
at a level that offers great value and to add<br />
resources to enable the Association to<br />
provide the vast array of non-revenue<br />
generating services that the industry<br />
requires. We look forward to your support<br />
and involvement for the projects run by the<br />
industry for the industry.<br />
Amanda Hunter<br />
Executive Director<br />
<strong>Jeweller</strong>s Association<br />
of Australia<br />
Suite 33, Level 8,<br />
99 York Street,<br />
Sydney NSW, 2000<br />
Telephone: 02 9262 2862<br />
Freecall: 1800 657 762<br />
Email: info@jaa.com.au<br />
Website: www.jaa.com.au<br />
JAA BOARD<br />
Selwyn Brandt<br />
President<br />
George Proszkowiec<br />
Vice President<br />
Brett Bolton<br />
Director<br />
Frank Salera<br />
Director<br />
Karen Lindley<br />
Director<br />
Jo Tory<br />
Director<br />
STAFF<br />
Amanda Hunter<br />
Executive Director<br />
Emma Ward<br />
Membership and<br />
Marketing Manager<br />
Roberta Mesturini<br />
Member and Consumer<br />
Relations Coordinator<br />
<strong>Jeweller</strong> is the official<br />
magazine of the <strong>Jeweller</strong>s<br />
Association of Australia<br />
(JAA) but is published<br />
independently by<br />
Gunnamatta Media Pty<br />
Ltd. The views expressed in<br />
<strong>Jeweller</strong> do not necessarily<br />
reflect those of the JAA<br />
and comments should be<br />
addressed to the Editor.<br />
38 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong>
JAA MEMBER<br />
LEADING THE CHARGE FOR MALE CONSUMERS<br />
Tom Boie is the owner and founder of Kavalri<br />
(pronounced Cavalry), a business based in<br />
Melbourne that offers custom-made, lifestyle<br />
jewellery for the man of the 21st century.<br />
The products are designed to suit the style<br />
and needs of male customers and range from<br />
stylish men’s bracelets in leather and steel<br />
to bold cufflinks of carbon fibre or black and<br />
silver-plated stainless steel designs.<br />
Boie has tungsten rings that also combine<br />
wood, carbon fibre or plated colours and<br />
necklaces in black and silver-plated stainless<br />
steel. His custom-made wedding rings<br />
are unique, including combinations such<br />
as the Brushed Tungsten and Gold Plated<br />
Pipecut Ring or the Black and Rose Gold<br />
Plated Pipecut Tungsten Ring – all can be<br />
customised by size and width and finished<br />
with a personalised engraving.<br />
Boie has amassed a strong education in<br />
business to back his jewellery brand. He<br />
attained a Bachelor of Commerce in 2006<br />
and then undertook postgraduate study<br />
with a Master of Diplomacy and Trade from<br />
Monash University in 2015. He also worked<br />
in marketing for more than a decade,<br />
holding positions with various national and<br />
international organisations across a range<br />
of industries; however, it was Boie’s interest<br />
in developing his own jewellery brand that<br />
led to the inception of Kavalri in 2012.<br />
Boie was aware of the lack of jewellery<br />
and accessories brands catering directly to<br />
men and felt a stylish and fashion-forward<br />
jewellery brand targeting men would be<br />
well received. Starting Kavalri was a natural<br />
progression for Boie who says he saw “a great<br />
niche opportunity in the men’s accessories<br />
and fashion/wedding jewellery segment”.<br />
Therefore, Kavalri was “born in response to<br />
the fact that very few jewellery and accessory<br />
brands were dedicated to men”.<br />
Boie acknowledges that he has learned a<br />
lot through trial and error and is still “refining<br />
my products and brand so that they will be<br />
well received in the market and appeal to<br />
my target audience”.<br />
He hasn’t been afraid to do this because<br />
his business philosophy is not to let fear of<br />
setbacks or failure be a reason for not pursing<br />
a certain aspiration.<br />
“Once you realise that it is ok to fall short<br />
initially, you will embrace the idea that<br />
these setbacks are often a necessary step to<br />
achieving eventual success,” he states.<br />
Not reaching goals has been part of the<br />
learning experience for Boie who says each<br />
setback has led him closer to achieving<br />
greater success.<br />
“Be passionate about what you do. If you love<br />
what you’re doing you will naturally find your<br />
niche and enjoy continued success,” he adds.<br />
It was an important step for Boie to join<br />
the <strong>Jeweller</strong>s Association of Australia (JAA)<br />
and have the opportunity to network in the<br />
jewellery community.<br />
Boie feels Kavalri has a lot to offer the<br />
jewellery industry when it comes to meeting<br />
the needs of an emerging fashion conscious<br />
male demographic.<br />
“Being a member of the JAA enables us<br />
to have industry-wide exposure through<br />
a leading association that actively looks after<br />
and fosters the interests of its members.<br />
We are proud to be a member of the JAA,”<br />
he says.<br />
”BE PASSIONATE<br />
ABOUT WHAT<br />
YOU DO. IF YOU<br />
LOVE WHAT<br />
YOU’RE DOING<br />
YOU WILL<br />
NATURALLY FIND<br />
YOUR NICHE<br />
AND ENJOY<br />
CONTINUED<br />
SUCCESS.”<br />
TOM BOIE<br />
Boie sees Kavalri’s position as a supplier of<br />
male-only jewellery as an advantageous point<br />
of difference.<br />
“Being one of the few jewellery brands<br />
that offers product only for men, I feel that<br />
the Kavalri brand resonates well with our<br />
customers. As such, our products are tailored<br />
to what we think men will like. I think men<br />
appreciate buying from a fashion forward<br />
men’s only jewellery brand,” he explains.<br />
So, from humble beginnings, Boie’s jewellery<br />
brand Kavalri has emerged as “an exciting<br />
brand that adds a new dimension to men’s<br />
lifestyle fashion” and it’s successful because it<br />
manages to combine innovative style with an<br />
urban edge that is meeting the needs of the<br />
modern-day man.<br />
Boie invites men to enjoy the Kavalri<br />
experience as he and his team are dedicated<br />
to ensuring a positive customer experience<br />
and in providing unique male pieces of<br />
jewellery design. Kavalri has stockists in both<br />
Sydney and Melbourne. i<br />
<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 39
Rising Stars Arena<br />
Young <strong>Jeweller</strong>s Group Championships<br />
<strong>Jeweller</strong>y Services Pavilion<br />
Business Services Pavilion<br />
Security Pavilion<br />
Educational Seminars<br />
Industry Leadership Panel<br />
Onsite Parking<br />
Private Networking Areas<br />
Quality Exhibitors<br />
Champagne Bar<br />
Complimentary Shuttle Buses<br />
jaajewellerytradeshow.com.au<br />
show@jaa.com.au
BUSINESS<br />
THE POWER OF PAIRING UP FOR PROFIT<br />
Retail partnerships can help businesses<br />
leverage each other’s strengths to get<br />
ahead. FRANCESCA NICASIO discusses<br />
what retailers need to know when<br />
collaborating with other businesses.<br />
Teaming up with businesses can result in<br />
a win-win outcome for all parties involved.<br />
When done right, collaborations result<br />
in additional exposure that earns more<br />
customers, more sales and more revenue.<br />
That said, striking up those winning<br />
partnership agreements is not always a walk<br />
in a park. In addition to investing the time and<br />
effort to find, vet and woo potential partners,<br />
businesses also need to carefully craft the<br />
terms of any agreement to ensure that costs<br />
and responsibilities are clear to all involved.<br />
This article addresses the steps that should<br />
be taken before, during and after retailers<br />
team up with another business to ensure<br />
that any collaboration is a success.<br />
FINDING A MATCH<br />
Deciding which business to join and the<br />
nature of the partnership is a crucial first step<br />
as it enables retailers to figure out the best<br />
way to reach out to potential partners.<br />
The outreach approach will depend on who<br />
is being contacted as well as the type of<br />
agreement one is looking to make. As such,<br />
it’s important to determine these details<br />
before contacting other businesses.<br />
Shel Horowitz, a best-selling marketing author<br />
and green business profitability consultant,<br />
says that the following points are what<br />
businesses should consider when picking<br />
good business partners:<br />
• Complementary offerings – any partnering<br />
businesses should appeal to the same<br />
demographic and should offer products<br />
and services that work well in tandem or<br />
in groups, like a one-stop wedding shop<br />
offering services from jewellers, florists,<br />
caterers, photographers and more<br />
• Willingness to enact joint marketing<br />
campaigns – consider collaborating with<br />
businesses willing to pursue cooperative<br />
advertising campaigns that no party could<br />
afford on their own – a bridal show with 50<br />
participants would be one good example<br />
• Complementary operational expertise<br />
ANY PARTNERING<br />
BUSINESSES<br />
SHOULD APPEAL<br />
TO THE SAME<br />
DEMOGRAPHIC<br />
AND SHOULD<br />
OFFER PRODUCTS<br />
AND SERVICES<br />
THAT WORK WELL<br />
IN TANDEM<br />
– take, for instance, the collaboration<br />
announced in 2014 between Australia<br />
Post and Chinese super-retailer Alibaba.<br />
The partnership means Australian<br />
companies can access Alibaba’s online<br />
shopping platform Tmall, normally<br />
restricted to companies registered as<br />
Chinese business entities. Australia Post<br />
receives its own space within Tmall that<br />
it can on-sell to Australian retailers and<br />
Alibaba can satisfy growing demand<br />
for Australian products, specifically in<br />
baby care, health and nutrition. In return,<br />
Australia Post now stocks Alipay gift cards,<br />
which allow Australians to shop at Tmall<br />
• Charity/not-for-profit partnerships with<br />
organisations whose missions are aligned<br />
with the brand identity – this is popular<br />
in the jewellery industry where there are<br />
many examples of brands, suppliers and<br />
retailers collaborating with charities.<br />
SCULPTING AN AGREEMENT<br />
Businesses should also think about the nature<br />
of any agreement. How will the collaboration<br />
work and what’s the ideal outcome? The<br />
answer to this depends on the type of<br />
<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 41
BUSINESS<br />
business that both partners have and the<br />
goals of the venture; however, a few common<br />
examples of business team-ups that work<br />
well include contests, sales and distribution<br />
agreements, events and social-media<br />
marketing opportunities:<br />
• Contests – businesses are teaming<br />
up so they can tap into each other’s<br />
fan bases and encourage sales or<br />
engagement. These types of collaborations<br />
are increasingly common on social<br />
media, owing to sites like Facebook<br />
and Instagram, which make it easy for<br />
users to tag, comment and engage<br />
with businesses. New Zealand-based<br />
apparel retailer The Shelter, for example,<br />
collaborated with other businesses to<br />
create an excellent Mother’s Day prize<br />
pack consisting of items and offers from<br />
their stores. Users would simply have to<br />
comment on The Shelter’s Facebook post<br />
in order for a chance to win. This allowed<br />
the retailer to increase fan activity while<br />
putting the spotlight on its store and other<br />
retailers at the same time<br />
• Sales and distribution agreements – some<br />
retailers strike up sales and distribution<br />
deals with other retailers wherein one<br />
party agrees to sell the goods of the other.<br />
An example is online retailer The Honest<br />
Company, which has an agreement with<br />
Target to sell its products<br />
• Events – other retailers decide to co-host<br />
events with organisations and fellow<br />
retailers. Such partnerships can enable<br />
retailers to share costs, improve exposure<br />
and connect with more consumers<br />
• Social buzz and marketing – sometimes<br />
a collaboration can be as simple as being<br />
social media ‘friends’. Popular among<br />
social-savvy small businesses, these<br />
agreements can include promoting or<br />
mentioning each other on social media,<br />
contributing articles or content to each<br />
other’s sites and running joint online<br />
competitions, among other things.<br />
These collaborations are just some of the<br />
types of agreements businesses could enter.<br />
REACH OUT THE PROPER WAY<br />
As mentioned earlier, there are many ways to<br />
attract the attention of potential partners. It<br />
all depends on who is being targeted and the<br />
type of deal one is looking to strike. One idea<br />
is to become a customer. This works best if<br />
reaching out to a small business in the same<br />
area. Stores that want to team up with a local<br />
business should first become customers.<br />
Swing by the location and experience<br />
the products or services first-hand. Form<br />
relationships with managers or owners then<br />
bring up the idea of a collaboration once<br />
enough rapport has been built.<br />
Those eyeing larger partners should target<br />
their efforts. Landing collaborations with<br />
big-name businesses may seem daunting but<br />
it’s not impossible. The key is figuring out the<br />
best way to get a foot in the door. For some<br />
retailers, this could be collaborating with a<br />
large not-for-profit. For others, such as new<br />
jewellery manufacturers, this could mean<br />
getting in touch with retail store buyers.<br />
Some retailers have landed partnerships<br />
by finding key contacts. Take TerraCycle for<br />
example, a small business that turns waste<br />
into green products. Its products are now<br />
stocked in Walmart thanks to shrewd online<br />
networking and persistence.<br />
According to a story on entrepreneur.com,<br />
founder Tom Szaky scoured LinkedIn and<br />
alumni networks to find the right contacts<br />
and then called Walmart “10 times a day,<br />
every day for three weeks” until he finally got<br />
through and set up a meeting.<br />
Similarly, Here on Biz – an app that lets users<br />
connect and keep tabs with professional<br />
contacts while travelling – landed a<br />
partnership with Virgin America and in-flight<br />
internet provider Gogo by investing time into<br />
building relationships with particular people<br />
within the company.<br />
According to inc.com, Here on Biz co-founder<br />
Nick Smoot, “used LinkedIn heavily, reaching<br />
out to key people within Virgin America to<br />
genuinely compliment them on things he<br />
believed the company was nailing”.<br />
There are some functions out there that are<br />
made specifically for partnerships. US-based<br />
Business Matchmaking is one example of<br />
a service that aims to offer procurement<br />
opportunities for small businesses. In<br />
Australia, there are various businesses that<br />
oversee collaborations between small to<br />
medium-sized enterprises, like Business<br />
Chicks and Dynamic Business. Local councils<br />
and business chambers will also organise<br />
and lead trade trips and networking events.<br />
LANDING<br />
PARTNERSHIPS<br />
WITH BIG-NAME<br />
BUSINESSES MAY<br />
SEEM DAUNTING<br />
BUT IT’S NOT<br />
IMPOSSIBLE.<br />
THE KEY IS<br />
FIGURING OUT<br />
THE BEST WAY<br />
TO GET A FOOT<br />
IN THE DOOR<br />
Of course, jewellery trade fairs are an ideal<br />
networking opportunity as well.<br />
CRAFTING THE AGREEMENT<br />
Needless to say, agreements struck between<br />
businesses will depend on what each party<br />
hopes to accomplish. The terms for a product<br />
distribution partnership, for instance, will<br />
be entirely different from a social media<br />
promotion deal.<br />
Be sure to conduct research on the rules<br />
and requirements of the other business. For<br />
instance, most jewellers will be aware that<br />
when entering into a product distribution<br />
deal, businesses may need to provide details<br />
such as minimum orders, lead times, payment<br />
terms, wholesale and retail prices and more.<br />
Doing a social media deal? Each party will<br />
need to know each other’s numbers when it<br />
comes to traffic, readership, email marketing<br />
lists and follower counts.<br />
Other interested parties will likely ask for<br />
some information of their own so be sure to<br />
have all the relevant documents ready. As<br />
entrepreneur.com puts it, businesses need<br />
to “prepare for scrutiny” and have all their<br />
financial and legal ducks in a row.<br />
If working on a big or complicated<br />
collaboration, it may be best to seek legal<br />
help. See to it that the terms are clearly<br />
outlined. Who has to deliver what and by<br />
when? What happens if one party can’t<br />
deliver? These are just some of the things<br />
that should be ironed out.<br />
TEST, TEST AND TEST<br />
It’s also a good idea to test the partnership<br />
first before entering into a huge commitment.<br />
For example, if contributing content to<br />
another retailer’s website or blog, write a<br />
couple of articles first before agreeing to fill<br />
up the other business’ editorial calendar.<br />
As long as both parties test the waters,<br />
measure results and use that information to<br />
determine whether or not to continue the<br />
agreement, there’s no reason why successful<br />
collaborations can’t be formed in <strong>2017</strong>. i<br />
FRANCESCA NICASIO is<br />
a retail expert from Vend, a<br />
POS, inventory and customer<br />
loyalty software for merchants.<br />
Learn more: vendhq.com<br />
42 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong>
SELLING<br />
TIPS FOR INCREASING CUSTOMER TRUST<br />
THE SECRET TO DRIVING REPEAT BUSINESS LIES IN BUILDING STRONG CUSTOMER RELATIONSHIPS AND GOOD CUSTOMER<br />
RELATIONSHIPS BEGIN BY ESTABLISHING TRUST. THOMAS YOUNG OUTLINES WAYS RETAILERS CAN IMPROVE TRUST.<br />
The Better Business Bureau is a not-for-profit<br />
organisation focused on consumer protection<br />
and industry self-regulation in America<br />
and Canada. During one of its Excellence in<br />
Customer Service Award events, guest speaker<br />
Dr Chris Hart gave an excellent presentation<br />
that clearly expressed how building trust<br />
results in customer loyalty, which results in<br />
more profitable customers and a greater<br />
chance for marketing and sales success.<br />
Most businesses struggle because trust is<br />
not yet present in a loyal customer base.<br />
Their customers range from merely satisfied<br />
to unhappy. The challenge is to move people<br />
into the loyal customer category, which<br />
means building trust.<br />
WHAT IS TRUST?<br />
Trust is the glue that holds the business<br />
relationship together and is expressed<br />
repeatedly through actions. This includes what<br />
the business does and does not do. Simple<br />
things are key, such as returning phone calls<br />
immediately and being consistent in words<br />
and actions. Trust is an absolutely essential<br />
part of sales, as well as business in general.<br />
If trust is not present, customers will not buy.<br />
TRUST IS AN INVESTMENT<br />
Building trust is not cheap; it is an investment<br />
in service to customers. This means hiring<br />
good people and providing them with<br />
ongoing training, offering money-back<br />
guarantees, and going out of the way to<br />
better meet customer needs. The catch is<br />
that these investments pay off handsomely<br />
in improved profits and a strong referral base.<br />
Remember, word-of-mouth marketing is the<br />
best way to generate new sales – when trust<br />
is high, customers will make a special effort<br />
to tell others about the business.<br />
ELIMINATE CUSTOMER SACRIFICES<br />
Retailers need to ask what customers have to<br />
endure to do business with them? These are<br />
barriers to success. Look at the companies you<br />
are passionate about. How easy is it to do to<br />
SELLING IS<br />
THE PROCESS<br />
OF BUILDING<br />
A TRUSTING<br />
RELATIONSHIP<br />
WITH PEOPLE.<br />
THIS IS NOT A<br />
PASSING TREND<br />
OR SALES<br />
TECHNIQUE BUT<br />
A WAY OF LIFE<br />
BUILD TRUST WITH FREQUENT INTERACTIONS<br />
business with those organisations? Remove<br />
consumer sacrifices and build loyal customers.<br />
COMPETENCE AND CREDIBILITY<br />
Trust is built by showing competence and<br />
credibility. Competence is getting the job<br />
done right, better than the competitors.<br />
It is expressed through knowledge of the<br />
customer’s needs, the business’ product and<br />
service and the ability to work with others.<br />
Credibility is the retailer’s character, integrity<br />
and honesty. Business owners and staff<br />
should only say what they really mean and be<br />
people of integrity. Show genuine concern for<br />
customers through unselfish behaviour. The<br />
focus is on the customer and his or her needs.<br />
TRUST CREATES HONESTY<br />
Don’t expect full honesty from people until<br />
trust is present. This is why objections really<br />
come from a lack of trust – customers fear<br />
that salespeople will take advantage of them<br />
if they share their shortcomings. When a<br />
customer trusts a salesperson, that customer<br />
is more inclined to tell them how to meet<br />
their needs specifically.<br />
HOW TO BUILD TRUST<br />
Trust is built through frequent interactions.<br />
These interactions are an opportunity to build<br />
trust. In fact, any interaction with customers<br />
has an impact on trust.<br />
Communication is about trust, not technique<br />
– when trust is high, it is effortless; when low,<br />
it is a huge burden. Listening builds trust<br />
because it shows the customer how much<br />
they are valued. It meets a deep psychological<br />
need to be respected as a person.<br />
Listening is the single most important way<br />
to build trust.<br />
Some other ways include the following:<br />
• Trust customers to do the right thing<br />
• Return all phone calls immediately<br />
• Send thank you notes<br />
• Be extremely organised and dependable<br />
• Do something different and special;<br />
be creative<br />
• Handle complaints promptly with empathy<br />
and honesty<br />
• Offer great customer service<br />
• Show sincere appreciation<br />
• Understand customers<br />
• Become a valuable resource to<br />
the customer<br />
• Create solutions that add value for<br />
the customer<br />
• Partner with the customer<br />
• Create a customer, not a sale<br />
• Do not over-promise but always do what<br />
is promised<br />
• Do something that is not expected<br />
• Always give more than expected<br />
• Do these things without any expectation<br />
of a return from the customer.<br />
Always act in the best interest of customers.<br />
Selling – in fact, doing business – is the<br />
process of building a trusting relationship<br />
with people. This is not a passing trend or<br />
sales technique but a way of life.<br />
Make it a challenge to find at least three ways<br />
to build trust with customers this month. i<br />
THOMAS YOUNG is CEO of<br />
Intuitive Websites and author<br />
of Winning the Website War and<br />
Intuitive Selling. Learn more:<br />
intuitivewebsites.com<br />
<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 43
WHAT DOES THE JAA<br />
A G R E A T E R V O I C E<br />
Through industry input the JAA<br />
lobbies to influence legislative changes<br />
and national curriculum.<br />
Working to protect your interests by<br />
having a united voice builds a stronger<br />
industry and shapes a sustainable<br />
future.<br />
The JAA works to represent your<br />
interests and support your needs.<br />
JOIN US ><br />
JAA.COM.AU/SIGNUP
MANAGEMENT<br />
SEVEN TRAITS OF A PROFICIENT LISTENER<br />
IT’S COMMON FOR PEOPLE TO ASPIRE TO BE GOOD LISTENERS IN THEIR PERSONAL LIVES SO IT FOLLOWS THAT<br />
PEOPLE SHOULD TAKE THE SKILL OF LISTENING TO THE WORKPLACE. MARIAN THIER REPORTS.<br />
A question that people in business often<br />
forget to ask themselves is: Am I a good<br />
listener? Sure, many people see the value in<br />
developing communication skills with friends<br />
and family but they should be encouraged to<br />
apply a similar principle to their professional<br />
lives with the aim of changing the way<br />
organisations are run for the better.<br />
It’s rare to find people who are good listeners<br />
in every situation. Listening is like any other<br />
skill in that anyone can develop proficiency.<br />
Proficiency comes from educating oneself<br />
on how to develop a stronger skill-set then<br />
applying this skill-set to different situations.<br />
For example, Dan might be considered a<br />
great listener when discussing the weekend’s<br />
football results but a poor listener when he is<br />
presented with a personal problem between<br />
his co-workers.<br />
What follows are seven ways in which Dan,<br />
or anyone, can learn to be a proficient listener<br />
in more than one context. Remember,<br />
the information can be applied to both<br />
relationships with colleagues and customers.<br />
GIVING FULL ATTENTION<br />
Prepare to listen and set aside all potential<br />
distractions. In this situation, Dan would stop<br />
his current task of unpacking stock, put his<br />
phone away and show through action that<br />
he is interested in being completely present<br />
for the conversation.<br />
INDIVIDUALISE THE SPEAKER<br />
Make an effort to notice different qualities<br />
of each person such as accent, tone-of-voice,<br />
body language, facial expression or frequency<br />
of giving input. This is straightforward,<br />
although it is important to note that not<br />
everyone is always focused on other people<br />
while they are listening. This is a learned skill<br />
that requires the effort of noticing smaller,<br />
often-ignored details in another person.<br />
ENGAGE THROUGHOUT INTERACTION<br />
Ask closed, open and probing questions, wait<br />
to respond and take turns speaking. It might<br />
IT’S RARE TO<br />
FIND PEOPLE<br />
WHO ARE GOOD<br />
LISTENERS IN<br />
EVERY SITUATION.<br />
LISTENING IS LIKE<br />
ANY OTHER SKILL<br />
IN THAT ANYONE<br />
CAN DEVELOP<br />
PROFICIENCY<br />
WATCH FOR VERBAL AND NON-VERBAL CLUES<br />
come more naturally for Dan to talk about<br />
the Sydney Swans; however, he might get so<br />
excited that he doesn’t realise he interrupted<br />
Jane while she was sharing her experience at<br />
the latest game.<br />
No matter what the context is, ask a variety<br />
of questions, give space for others to respond<br />
and allow each person to take a turn.<br />
SEE VALUE IN ALL COMMUNICATION<br />
This means not taking everything literally<br />
all of the time – it’s about using verbal and<br />
non-verbal clues to search for meaning.<br />
For example, if Dan was giving a lecture<br />
on the danger of children under the age<br />
of 15 playing football and Jane is crinkling<br />
her eyebrows or looking completely<br />
dumbfounded with her eyes bulging with<br />
anger but saying, “Oh yeah, I totally agree,”<br />
Dan could take her words literally or he could<br />
question her non-verbal cues, which reflect<br />
her own experience of her two sons playing<br />
football since they were four.<br />
INTERPRET TO GAIN UNDERSTANDING<br />
Separate main and supporting points and<br />
follow a sequence of ideas/messages/<br />
instructions to draw insightful inferences.<br />
This point is important because it integrates<br />
many tools into one. It looks at all of the<br />
pieces. An individual with this skill has<br />
the ability to prioritise each method of<br />
communication – non-verbal cues; tone<br />
of voice; the enthusiasm of the speaker;<br />
the literal words – in an effort to gain the<br />
most information and insight.<br />
EVALUATE CREDIBILITY<br />
Everyone speaks and communicates from<br />
the lens of their own personal experiences,<br />
as seen in the example of Dan and Jane.<br />
Having this awareness is important because<br />
it brings forward the value of not making<br />
assumptions. Dan might see sending<br />
four-year-old kids out onto the field to play<br />
football as an invitation to injury but Jane<br />
might see football as the key to each child’s<br />
future. One’s experience has the potential<br />
to cloud one’s ability to listen fully without<br />
assumed understanding.<br />
FOLLOW THROUGH ON INTERACTION<br />
Give feedback, paraphrase what was said and<br />
identify next steps. If Dan ignores Jane’s facial<br />
expressions and just takes her words literally,<br />
he’ll miss a key opportunity to understand<br />
Jane’s perspective, which could cloud her<br />
perception of him as a leader.<br />
If he instead pulls her aside after the lecture,<br />
mentions that he’d noticed her shocked looks<br />
and invites her to share what she is really<br />
thinking either in that moment or at another<br />
time, he would be opening the door to allow<br />
for honest feedback. Following through on<br />
important conversations is key to having the<br />
qualities of a skilled listener.<br />
In conclusion, even though these seven traits<br />
of a proficient listener are important, always<br />
remember the platinum rule of listening:<br />
listen to others as they want to be heard. i<br />
MARIAN THIER is founder<br />
of Expanding Thought,<br />
a coaching service for<br />
business leaders. Learn more:<br />
expandingthought.com<br />
<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 45
MARKETING & PR<br />
ARE YOU NETWORKING EFFECTIVELY?<br />
NETWORKING REMAINS ONE OF THE BEST RESOURCES FOR DEVELOPING AND EXPANDING A BUSINESS.<br />
DAVID BROWN DISCUSSES SOME TECHNIQUES RETAILERS CAN USE TO INCREASE THEIR NETWORKING OPPORTUNITIES.<br />
With developments in technology there<br />
is now an increasingly large number of<br />
resources available to help business owners<br />
operate their stores more effectively.<br />
As great as technology is though, one of<br />
the best resources for improving business<br />
has been around for decades and it’s<br />
absolutely free – it’s called networking.<br />
Networking provides a huge number of<br />
benefits for any business owner. Here are<br />
some reasons why:<br />
• Knowledge – no person is an island and<br />
no one has a monopoly on the best ideas<br />
and practices that are available. Sharing<br />
knowledge with fellow retailers is one of<br />
the best ways to drive a business forward<br />
• Sourcing of product – there is such<br />
a huge selection of suppliers and no<br />
one business owner can have a full<br />
handle on everyone’s offerings or<br />
prices. Networking with other retailers<br />
can show who has the best deals and<br />
benefits and can also provide some<br />
social proof before embarking on<br />
dealing with new suppliers, particularly<br />
in the trade-show environment where<br />
retailers often encounter suppliers they<br />
have not met or dealt with previously.<br />
There are plenty of retailers who will<br />
only deal with recommended suppliers<br />
and attend trade shows armed with a<br />
recommended go-to list of businesses<br />
from whom they’ll purchase. This<br />
can save considerable time and that<br />
overwhelming feeling<br />
• Psychological benefits – being a<br />
business owner can be a lonely road. The<br />
camaraderie and support of a network of<br />
similar operators can be a great source of<br />
comfort when things get tough and also<br />
provide someone to celebrate with when<br />
things go well<br />
• Social – most business networks become<br />
the foundation of firm friendships that<br />
can last well past the existence of the<br />
business relationship.<br />
SETTING UP AN EFFECTIVE NETWORK<br />
The most important requirement is that<br />
jewellers find like-minded retailers who<br />
share the same values but have strengths<br />
in areas in which they may lack. A similar<br />
type of store is a plus as is similar size and<br />
market place.<br />
It’s important that the arrangement is<br />
formalised and it’s recommended that<br />
regular meetings take place about every<br />
quarter, either face-to-face – perhaps<br />
coinciding with buying days or trade fairs<br />
– or via online methods such as Skype.<br />
One of the key criteria is finding retailers<br />
who are willing to contribute and openly<br />
share. Everyone needs to be willing to<br />
commit and bring something to the<br />
discussion. The aim is to find committed<br />
business owners willing to help others – this<br />
is no place for people only looking to take.<br />
An ideal size is about six business owners<br />
who can each provide fresh ideas without<br />
meetings becoming bogged down<br />
and difficult to run. Rotating store visits<br />
is also encouraged to provide physical<br />
commentary on each participating store.<br />
WHAT CAN BE ACHIEVED AT MEETINGS?<br />
Having an agenda is critical to maximising<br />
time together. Here are some valuable topics<br />
to discuss:<br />
• Finance and stock – a comparison of<br />
financial reports can be a great starting<br />
point. Who is achieving the best mark-ups?<br />
Who has the highest diamond sales?<br />
What about the best average? These are<br />
the perfect starting points for discussion.<br />
If one store is achieving a better margin<br />
than the rest, ask them why. From great<br />
questions come great answers<br />
• Competition – competing with each<br />
other can be fun and encourages staff to<br />
strive for better results. In the good old<br />
days of the fax machine, I knew two stores<br />
that would compete to see which store<br />
achieved the most sales of $500 or more<br />
in a month. The winner shouted the loser<br />
IT’S IMPORTANT<br />
THAT THE<br />
ARRANGEMENT<br />
IS FORMALISED<br />
AND IT’S<br />
RECOMMENDED<br />
THAT REGULAR<br />
MEETINGS TAKE<br />
PLACE ABOUT<br />
EVERY QUARTER,<br />
EITHER FACE-<br />
TO-FACE OR VIA<br />
ONLINE METHODS<br />
NEVER UNDERESTIMATE NETWORKING VALUE<br />
McDonalds vouchers! Faxes would whizz<br />
back and forward between the stores,<br />
creating a real spirit of friendly competition<br />
• Marketing – working together with other<br />
stores can provide great buying benefits<br />
when sourcing large quantities of product.<br />
It can also offer unique marketing<br />
opportunities that can be shared<br />
between the parties involved. I know<br />
a group of four stores who set up their<br />
own diamond collection, developing<br />
collectively a unique arrangement with<br />
a supplier that provided them with a<br />
selection they might not have been able<br />
to establish individually. The range would<br />
tour the four stores and they were able to<br />
produce marketing material at a shared<br />
cost that would have been costly for<br />
them to create on their own.<br />
Networking is an often under-utilised<br />
opportunity to generate value by tapping<br />
into the knowledge of others. Setting up<br />
a formal network with like-minded retailers<br />
will lift businesses to another level that<br />
cannot be achieved on one’s own. i<br />
DAVID BROWN is<br />
co-founder and business<br />
mentor of Retail Edge<br />
Consultants. Learn more:<br />
retailedgeconsultants.com<br />
46 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong>
LOGGED ON<br />
FOUR SEO TRAPS THAT BUSINESSES ENCOUNTER<br />
ALTHOUGH SEARCH ENGINE OPTIMISATION HAS BEEN AROUND FOR A LONG TIME, MANY BUSINESSES STILL FALL INTO<br />
SOME FAMILIAR TRAPS. CHRIS ASHTON REPORTS ON COMMON SEO MISTAKES THAT NEED TO BE DODGED.<br />
Plenty of myths exist regarding search engine<br />
optimisation (SEO) so businesses new and<br />
old to SEO can be misled easily and it’s not<br />
entirely their fault.<br />
<strong>Jeweller</strong>s who want to get the best rankings<br />
for their websites need to avoid these four<br />
common SEO mistakes.<br />
KEYWORD STUFFING<br />
Optimising websites with the right keywords<br />
is one of the cornerstones of SEO but many<br />
businesses make the mistake of filling<br />
their pages with keywords for the sake of<br />
enhancing search results, a practice called<br />
keyword stuffing. This technique was popular<br />
in the early days of SEO when keyword<br />
density – the number of times a keyword is<br />
used compared to the total number of words<br />
in a page – increased search rankings.<br />
Those days are over and keyword stuffing<br />
simply doesn’t work today. In fact, it’s likely<br />
to do more harm than good to a website<br />
– Google is now smarter and penalises<br />
websites that spam pages with keywords.<br />
Tip: Go for quality over quantity. Aim to use<br />
keywords as naturally as possible and avoid<br />
filling content with keywords for the sake of<br />
using them.<br />
MESSY SITE STRUCTURE<br />
A well-organised site structure is the<br />
backbone of good SEO, not to mention<br />
great user experience. Unfortunately, many<br />
websites take site structure for granted. One<br />
knows bad site structure when they see it:<br />
messy navigation, missing pages and no clear<br />
way of getting from one page to another.<br />
When site structure is messy, website visitors<br />
will struggle to find the content they need.<br />
This will increase a site’s bounce rate and<br />
reduce dwell time, both of which have<br />
shown to impact rankings. A disorganised<br />
site also makes it more difficult for Google<br />
to crawl a website and index its pages. This<br />
could lead to some pages not being ranked<br />
for search results.<br />
Tip: Organise the site’s main navigation<br />
and make sure all pages in the website<br />
are organised logically.<br />
UN-MOBILE-FRIENDLY WEBSITES<br />
With more people using mobile devices<br />
every day, one would think that businesses<br />
would prioritise mobile-friendly websites.<br />
Surprisingly, that’s not the case.<br />
Many websites that aren’t optimised for<br />
mobile devices have unresponsive designs<br />
that don’t adapt to smaller screens. This<br />
makes it difficult for visitors to view them<br />
in smartphones and tablets.<br />
Why is this an issue? Research has shown<br />
that more people are now using mobile<br />
devices to browse the internet. In fact, a<br />
StatCounter report showed that people<br />
accessed the internet through mobile<br />
devices more than desktop computers for<br />
the first time in October 2016. This trend<br />
shows no signs of stopping anytime soon.<br />
In order to reach the biggest market possible,<br />
websites need to be accessible through all<br />
major mobile devices.<br />
Google itself confirmed mobile-friendliness<br />
as a ranking factor, which makes correcting<br />
this mistake even more critical. It should be<br />
noted that taking a website from ‘not mobilefriendly’<br />
to ‘mobile-friendly’ does require<br />
work by a developer but, as mentioned, the<br />
investment is worth it.<br />
Tip: Adapt to the times and use a responsive,<br />
mobile-friendly design. Not only will this<br />
make the website accessible to more people<br />
but it can also improve user experience.<br />
SPAMMY LINKBUILDING<br />
A strong link profile – the body of links from<br />
other websites pointing to the website – is<br />
essential to getting higher rankings in search<br />
results; however, many businesses often take<br />
this too far, listing themselves in too many<br />
directories or even taking part in interlinking<br />
blog networks for the sake of getting as<br />
many links pointing to their sites as possible.<br />
AVOID FALLING INTO THE TRAP OF USING OUTDATED SEO METHODS<br />
A WELL-<br />
ORGANISED SITE<br />
STRUCTURE IS<br />
THE BACKBONE<br />
OF GOOD SEO,<br />
NOT TO MENTION<br />
GREAT USER<br />
EXPERIENCE.<br />
UNFORTUNATELY,<br />
MANY WEBSITES<br />
TAKE IT FOR<br />
GRANTED<br />
Others also abuse reciprocal links – ‘I link to<br />
you, you link to me’ – or pay for links, which<br />
Google generally discourages.<br />
This method may have worked several years<br />
ago but Google is getting much better at<br />
detecting spam links in a link profile and will<br />
quickly disregard them.<br />
This isn’t to say that links from directories<br />
such as True Local are not important because<br />
they are, especially for local SEO, but again it’s<br />
about quality and variety rather than quantity.<br />
The best links are those that come naturally<br />
from opportunities like editorials or blogs.<br />
Tip: Aim for variety in link profiles. The<br />
strongest link profiles are those that contain<br />
a good mix of links from different types<br />
of sources.<br />
By avoiding these common mistakes,<br />
businesses can ensure that their websites<br />
are in the best position to improve their<br />
search rankings. i<br />
CHRIS ASHTON is a<br />
partner and SEO manager at<br />
Kymodo, a Brisbane digital<br />
marketing agency.<br />
Learn more: kymodo.com.au<br />
<strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 47
MY BENCH<br />
Marion<br />
Schweitzer<br />
WORKS AT:<br />
Marion Schweitzer <strong>Jeweller</strong>s<br />
AGE: Don’t be silly; never<br />
ask a woman her age<br />
YEARS IN TRADE:<br />
A long time<br />
TRAINING: <strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />
apprenticeship, FGAA<br />
FIRST JOB: A local<br />
manufacturing jeweller<br />
based in Brisbane, QLD<br />
Favourite gemstone:<br />
I love them all, but diamond<br />
(a girl’s best friend), sapphire<br />
and tourmaline are my<br />
special favourites.<br />
Favourite metal:<br />
18-carat yellow gold.<br />
Favourite tool:<br />
My hands and brain.<br />
Best new tool discovery:<br />
Oh, I don’t know! I would<br />
like a genie in a bottle or<br />
some of those little elves<br />
that come in at night and<br />
do all of my work.<br />
Best tip from a jeweller:<br />
The quality of your work<br />
is everything.<br />
Best tip to a jeweller:<br />
Be passionate about your<br />
job and aim to be the best<br />
at what you do.<br />
What’s the most difficult<br />
resource to source locally?<br />
Human resources by far<br />
are the hardest things to<br />
find and keep. I am lucky<br />
to have a great team.<br />
Love jewellery because:<br />
<strong>Jeweller</strong>y to me is like art –<br />
it’s to be admired and to be<br />
an expression of one’s self<br />
– but not hung on the wall.<br />
I love bringing pieces to life.<br />
My bench is always:<br />
Messy, because I am always<br />
so busy dealing with a<br />
million things at once.<br />
Favourite sports team:<br />
Sorry, I am not a sporting<br />
kind of girl. My passion<br />
is travel.
SOAPBOX<br />
A TALE OF CABBAGES, BREAD AND JEWELLERY<br />
Would you like to know what cabbage,<br />
fruit, bread and flowers have in common<br />
with jewellery? Nothing!<br />
We’re so fortunate in this industry that the<br />
products we sell are not like vegetables, a<br />
loaf of bread or the latest piece of clothing<br />
where the item goes off or becomes last<br />
season if it doesn’t sell within the first six<br />
weeks. We’re in the business of precious<br />
metals and gemstones, great electronics<br />
and timekeeping, so why are so many<br />
jewellers selling themselves cheap to get<br />
rid of ‘old’ stock?<br />
One can blame outside sources for this<br />
ludicrous mentality but the reality is that this<br />
mindset is mostly the result of an inside job.<br />
Too many jewellers are lazy as hell and the<br />
industry is falling over because of it.<br />
Buying groups definitely play their role in<br />
supporting the industry – they offer great<br />
networking opportunities and promotional<br />
ideas to name a few – but retailers shouldn’t<br />
forget to think for themselves.<br />
If you want to do the same thing and carry<br />
the same stock as every other jeweller in<br />
a buying group then you may as well be a<br />
chain store. As an independent retailer, you’ve<br />
got to find your niche and what works for<br />
you that is different to the competition.<br />
Additionally, forgetting to think for yourself<br />
and consequently stocking your store full<br />
to the brim of product from international<br />
brands that dictate range, price and profit<br />
margin is retail suicide.<br />
There’s no point in following competition<br />
down any route, particularly price wars.<br />
I’m my own person, I know my industry<br />
and I’m forever trying to find product that<br />
is unique and will fit in with my store. My<br />
selections are also not necessarily based on<br />
how much money I will make; however, I<br />
am determined to not sell it cheap and this<br />
philosophy has served me well.<br />
I have operated my business since 2002<br />
and in that time have never held a sale.<br />
If a customer wants to buy something and<br />
they think it’s cheaper down the road, well<br />
good luck to that retailer. They may have<br />
made a sale but they didn’t make a profit like<br />
I will eventually. It’s not selling quick enough,<br />
you say? Well I won’t buy that product again.<br />
We should all go to work to make money,<br />
not give it away. The running cost of any<br />
business does not go down – your staff don’t<br />
say they’re going to work for half of their<br />
wage, your landlord doesn’t plan to reduce<br />
your rent by half, so why give away half your<br />
profit? My father used to say to me that<br />
profit is not a dirty word and I stand by that<br />
sentiment. You buy ‘mistakes’ at the supplier’s<br />
price, so why sell them for no profit? I’ve had<br />
my share of mistakes in the past and it’s best<br />
to put them down to a learning experience<br />
and obviously don’t replenish them.<br />
I’m sick of perceived industry ‘experts’ – some<br />
of whom I must say come from their own<br />
pretty ordinary retail backgrounds – filling<br />
our heads with their beliefs. I don’t think<br />
jewellers should put the price up just to bring<br />
it down. You purchase product – or at least<br />
should purchase product – because you<br />
believe in its value. Should that item not sell<br />
then why not negotiate with the supplier?<br />
I DON’T VIEW THE<br />
FACT THAT MY<br />
BUSINESS HAS<br />
OLD STOCK IN A<br />
NEGATIVE LIGHT<br />
EITHER. IN FACT,<br />
I RECEIVE MORE<br />
ENJOYMENT OUT<br />
OF SELLING AN<br />
OLD PIECE AT FULL<br />
PROFIT THAN I DO<br />
A NEW PIECE THAT<br />
WE’VE HAD FOR<br />
FIVE MINUTES<br />
I don’t view the fact that my business has<br />
old stock in a negative light either. In fact, I<br />
receive more enjoyment out of selling an old<br />
piece at full profit than I do a new piece that<br />
we’ve had for five minutes.<br />
Of course old stock will look dated if you<br />
leave it out on the floor gathering dust so it’s<br />
important to constantly move it around and<br />
keep it in pristine condition with fresh pricing.<br />
As an industry, we need to get off our<br />
backsides, work hard and appreciate the<br />
opportunities we have been given. We’re<br />
so lucky to be working with jewellery –<br />
I wouldn’t want to be in the rag trade<br />
and I wouldn’t want to be operating an<br />
independent fruit and vegetable store<br />
competing with the likes of Coles.<br />
Some may say that times are difficult but<br />
people don’t stop falling in love, they don’t<br />
stop getting married and they don’t stop<br />
having anniversaries. People ask me all the<br />
time whether business is tough and I respond<br />
by asking them if they have stopped having<br />
birthdays. <strong>Jeweller</strong>s cater for life in good<br />
times and in bad because those passionate<br />
parts of life never go out of fashion.<br />
Our industry is set up to make lots of<br />
money; we’re so bloody lucky and there’s<br />
no need to sell ourselves cheap. I come<br />
back to the words of my father: profit is<br />
not a dirty word. i<br />
Name: Brent Weatherall<br />
Business: Brent Weatherall <strong>Jeweller</strong><br />
Position: director<br />
Location: Dunedin, New Zealand<br />
Years in the industry: 37 years<br />
50 <strong>Jeweller</strong> <strong>April</strong> <strong>2017</strong>
INTERNA TIONAL<br />
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VISIT THE INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY<br />
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One of<br />
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