Yumpu_ May_June 2017_02

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Hideaways in the Outer Hebrides Hideaways in the Outer Hebrides Page 20-21: Blue Reef Cottage, Harris. Above: Corrodale Cottage, South Uist. Opposite: Abhainn Cottage, Breasclete, Lewis. Photographs taken by Kristina Hayward. Worthy of Any Prince By mid-afternoon we had reached the north end of the island and the community of Iochdar, where our first hideaway awaited us, an old thatched cottage transformed into a little jewellery box of cosiness. Corrodale Cottage comprises a room that is kitchen and living room in one with a little dragon of a peat-burning stove, a bathroom with a spa bath and a single bedroom with a four-poster worthy of any prince. The west side of South Uist is almost one unbroken beach and there are places where you can drive down almost to its edge. There is all the difference in the world between this and the little sheltered coves to be found on Inner Hebridean islands like Colonsay and Coll and Iona. This is land and waterscape teeming with birdlife for as soon as we opened the cottage door we heard peewits and greylag geese and curlews. When we drove inland too beside one of the wandering lochs and close to its incredible blueness, we were under the ramparts of the Uist hills with their many ravens and eagles. On another day we went east to find the settlement of Lochmaddy and the gem of its arts centre and museum, Taigh Chearsabhagh. Beside us grandparents sat with their grandson chatting in Gaelic, though what often is spoken today is a real mixture - a sentence of English followed by one of Gaelic. Blue Reef Cottages When Kristina and I crossed the Sound of Harris to the township of Leverburgh we could not have wished for a better day. I have seen it miraculously clear with the water often shallow and the most beautiful liquid blue, the sea simply alive with birds. Just ten minutes beyond Leverburgh are the Blue Reef Cottages where we were to stay. Here they are almost sculpted into the hillside, little rock fortresses covered by soft green grass affording priceless views out over the bays for which Harris is so famous. Only minutes beyond the cottages are Scarista and Luskentyre. They meld into one as the road twists and turns around the coast. The sands are almost pure white at times with vast shores pounded by great thunderheads of sea that spill coral-white vastnesses of water over their miles. I had been foolish enough to suggest to Kristina that we might swim. There was not the slightest hope of such a thing. Perhaps on a truly gentle June day there would be the chance of it, but this is water to be taken seriously indeed. The Beaches Around our cottage skylarks twirled and sang. We sat by the astoundingly fine windows of our cottage like children simply gazing at the blue-green back of the Atlantic as it breathed and swelled hour after hour. One day we negotiated the single track road to Rodel, but almost always it was the beaches that drew us back and back once more. Then we drove north through the glens and hills that separate Harris from Lewis. They are a real surprise for they are truly high and wild. Then down at last into the long moorlands and loch country that is Lewis with scattered townships and peatstacks, and the wind scurrying over all of it as surely it has done from time’s beginning. Our final cottage was in the village of Callanish, a hideaway with an open fire and a little sauna in the bathroom. What I had sought in all the places we were to stay was cosiness, for there’s nothing more important when coming back from a windy, rain-swept day, tired and hungry and truly cold. And that was what we found in each of the exceptionally lovely hideaways. Eerily Powerful Abhainn Cottage could not have been better placed for proximity to all the major sites on the Isle of Lewis. We were five minutes from the eerily powerful Standing Stones of Callanish, the Carloway Broch was close by as was the Blackhouse of Arnol. It was near enough to Stornoway too, and the ferry back to Ullapool. An adventure it was indeed and a privilege to get a sense of the sheer distinctiveness of all the islands that make on the map a spine of landfalls which might appear similar enough. Will we be back? Of course, just for longer. Further Information Corrodale Cottage, Iochdar, South Uist 01870 610361 stay@uistholidaycottage.co.uk Blue Reef Cottages, Scarista, Harris 01859 550370 info@stay-hebrides.com Abhainn Cottage, 2 Breasclete, Isle of Lewis 01851 621397 stay@luxuryhebrideancottage.co.uk Island Hopping with CalMac: www.calmac.co.uk/hopscotch 22 SCOTTISH ISLANDS EXPLORER MAY / JUNE 2017 MAY / JUNE 2017 SCOTTISH ISLANDS EXPLORER 23
Page READERS’ Index Header OPPORTUNITIES Socks, Covers, Backpacks and … Skye-high Christchurch Airfield, Dorset, was, until 1964, renowned for aviation design and manufacture. Now Foxwood - www.foxwood.co.uk - uses the site for the innovative craftsmanship and production of cases for the iPhone 7 and 7 Plus. The construction, which includes leather and soft micro-fibre, gives protection, durability, grip and the attribute which complements Apple products - elegance. Pictured here is the black hardshell model. Go to the website to see the range on offer. 24 SCOTTISH ISLANDS EXPLORER MAY / JUNE 2017 Corrymoor Socks - www.corrymoor.com - is a company founded in 1992 that produces truly durable socks made from the mohair fleece of angora goats. This fibre does not trap bacteria, cause foot odour nor create discomfort. They are ideal for those who are travellers or individuals with sensitive skin. So they are for ‘every walk of life’ or, alternatively, make great bedsocks. Socks do remain an item of clothing that goes missing in the wash. These have minimal washing requirements. The Samonsite Zalia backpack is stylish and practical for the working lady on the go. Its elegant design meets business requirements and its capaciousness suits individual needs. The front pocket in saffiano leather is perfect for storing personal belongings; the main compartment fits laptops up to 14.1” and has room for a tablet. Its high-tenacity polyester provides strength, the feminine beige and trendy black offer alternative colours and www.samsonite.co.uk gives details. Join the internationally-renowned artist, Scottish Colourist, Cara McKinnon Crawford on a spectacular flight, Skye High. Her pilot, Hamish Mitchell, took a Cessna seaplane on the clearest of days to shoot film footage for a dramatic eagle-eye view of mountains, lochs and settlements. The sights are accompanied by a unique sound track from Mick MacNeil (formerly of ‘Simple Minds’). Contact www.caramckinnoncrawford.com for details of the 17-minute DVD for £10.00. READERS’ OPPORTUNITIES Page Index Header Here is something to celebrate the spectacular Inner Hebridean Isle of Skye. With thousands of tourists visiting each year, ATLAS seeks to develop this market as a means to become a more sustainable charitable organisation and offer alternative, unique souvenirs. Since 2012, ATLAS has invited a range of artists to visit and explore the landscape with fresh eyes. J Maizlish Mole created editions of his maps as part of the project, Mapping Skye and Portree. The maps are both objects of art and playful, navigational tools for Skye in general, and Portree, in particular. By incorporating elements of local oral knowledge and culture, the prints show how stunning locations can be brought to life for residents and visitors. In 2015, Frances Priest explored the nearby island of Raasay with expert local botanist, Stephen Bungard. She created a series of ceramic artworks for permanent installation within the historic clan-house. She also turned her original botanical drawings into a limited-edition, colouringbook, Patterns of Flora, so that tourists can take something of the local botany away with them. Last year, David Lemm climbed Sgurr Alasdair, the highest island-summit in the UK. This experience provided the inspiration for Landshapes, a limited-edition series of seven postcards depicting his journey, alongside a poster and sticker set, packaged together in a signed, screen-printed box. Each postcard draws attention to the different aspects of the climb. Photographer, René Jansen explored some lesserknown viewpoints - and in the vein of traditional Dutch-engraving - created a series of three digital archival prints which draw attention to the intricate beauty and textures of the ancient island. Souvenirs of Skye From the Portree-based organisation, ATLAS Arts, with its affordable art works Every Road on the Isle of Skye by J Maizlish Mole. We are also excited to be launching two new additions in 2017, another limited-edition object, a silver fish-slice by eminent Scottish artist, Will Maclean, and a silk scarf from Skye-based artist, Caroline Dear, who is inspired by the distinctive botanical landscape. Members of Own Art, a scheme which makes buying art easy and affordable, can spread the cost of a purchase over ten months with an interest free loan. ATLAS hopes that next time you visit Skye you consider supporting the arts and purchasing an alternative-style souvenir. Please feel free to contact or visit our office (01478 611143) to find out more about our artworks and projects. We are in the basement of the Skye Gathering Hall, Bank Street, Portree, Skye IV51 9BZ and are open from 10.00 - 17.00 from Monday - Friday. Alternatively, you can visit our website and shop online through atlasarts.org.uk Within View | 57°34’58” N 6°19’32” W by René Jansen. Below: Landshapes by David Lemm. MAY / JUNE 2017 SCOTTISH ISLANDS EXPLORER 25
Page 1 and 2: SCOTTISH ISLANDS THE UK’S ONLY MA
Page 3 and 4: Editor’s Welcome / Guest Columnis
Page 5 and 6: Five Weeks on the Monachs Five Week
Page 7 and 8: Bute has Four A-rated Attributes MI
Page 9 and 10: Colonsay’s Ruined Village Colonsa
Page 11: Hideaways in the Outer Hebrides Hid
Page 15 and 16: Machair Machair Unfortunately, the
Page 17 and 18: A Quiet, Natural History A Quiet, N
Page 19 and 20: The Flying Duchess The Flying Duche
Page 21 and 22: Skye Excites the Emotions Skye Exci
Page 23 and 24: Fibre Optic Broadband Fibre Optic B
Page 25 and 26: RESPONSES Responses CROSSWORD Page
Page 27: ISLAND AND WILDLIFE CRUISES OFF SCO

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