Yumpu_ May_June 2017_02

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Island Castles Island Castles Tom Aston considers aspects of extensive conference proceedings Castles played a central role in the heyday of the Hebrides from the Norse period through to the end of the Lordship of the Isles. They were linked by seaways, conduits for those vessels known as ‘birlinn’ or galley. The notion of ‘islandcentred geography’ (Ian Armit) appeals to this magazine and it is pleased to carry a review of a new publication from The Islands Book Trust. The three-day international gathering, Island Castles, took place in Barra in mid- September 2015 and was a conference organised by the IBT, Historic Scotland and Comhairle nan Eilean Siar. It was stimulated by the late Ian R Macneill’s call to revisit the study of galley-castles. This book is essentially a record of the conference proceedings and it will be available in June 2017. Rory Macneil set out the challenge posed by Ian Macneil’s earlier research on the topic and that a comprehensive approach is needed to study galley-castles of the 800 - 1600 period. Vital to an assessment is to see the constructions as being sea- rather than land-orientated and situated directly on the Norse-Celtic Seaways. The nearby Kisimul Castle was literally shown as a significant example in this context. Maritime Mobility The exploits and seasonal lifestyles of ‘Svein’ and other Viking compatriots were focused on by R Andrew McDonald, who stressed how, between 1000 - 1500, seedplanting would be followed by plundering Irish and Hebridean sites in a ‘Spring-trip’ followed by harvesting and further harassment in an ‘Autumn trip’. Maritime mobility mattered with the galley-castles being in commanding locations. David Sellar then reminded the audience of how many Irish families claim descent from Nial of the Nine Hostages, High King of Ireland in the 5th Century. Recent research has considered the findings of DNA links and how a a survey of the Macneil of Barra descendants worldwide had shown that their Y-chromosome was not Celtic, but distinctly Norse. The galleys associated with the castles were used, as Donald McWhannell pointed out, for personal transport and display, as troop-transporters, as assault craft and for trading. They were wellsuited to these waters and the style of vessel remained in use for 900 years. Indeed, their historical longevity and multiple uses encouraged them to be considered as cultural icons, endowed with qualities by Gaelic poets. Harbours and Farms The Viking colonists who settled in the Hebrides came from a venerable tradition of fort-building from the Iron Age with hundreds of drystone and turfed constructions, particularly on hills. Alan Macniven considered the nomenclature of these together with the adjacent presence of harbours and farms. The transportation and feeding of armies are underlying components in any military strategy. Tom Macneill contrasted the ‘mottecastles’ made of earth and timber, which were increasingly regarded as being primitive, with the ‘keep-castles’ which are defined as having a great tower that could be used for safe-keeping when retreat was needed and a siege undertaken. He also draws an interesting distinction between craft built specially for war and trading vessels that were adapted for military use. The material and sources in the construction of galley-castles was examined by Jamie MacPherson. Normally the stones would be as local as possible, but some, with a green appearance, at Kisimul were thought to have come from a South Uist source. The Chairman of the IBT, Alasdair MacEachen, who introduced the Conference, was able to identify similar in the fireplace structure at a friend’s home. Whether the Stuely green stone / slate source was identical has yet to be concluded, but this series of papers of the conference will enable those with a professional or keen amateur interest in Hebridean castles and craft to satisfy their interests. After all, the Vikings left several aspects of their sea-going, siege-seeking, treasure-hunting, namegiving culture plus identifying chromosomes. Barra conference leaflet; Kisimul Castle, Barra, from on high by Roger Butler. 46 SCOTTISH ISLANDS EXPLORER MAY / JUNE 2017
RESPONSES Responses CROSSWORD Page Index 28 Header by Tom Johnson When you have solved the crossword, transfer the letters from some of the numbered squares into the small grid and so discover the town with the UK’s smallest cathedral situated on a ‘Great’ island. Jennifer Flynn reflects on a day and night on Arran Living in Glasgow, I often find myself drawn to Arran. So days-off frequently involve boarding the ferry in Ardrossan with my partner and our dog, Hamish. On the island it is easy to look no farther than Brodick, with the Brewery, Isle of Arran Cheese and Arran Aromatics all worth a visit. But there is so much more on offer. All our previous visits have been day-trips, so this time we decided to spend the night on the island. Our destination this time was Blackwaterfoot, literally meaning ‘Bottom of the Black River’. This peaceful hamlet lies on the west coast. On a clear day you can see across the Kilbrannan Sound to the Mull of Kintyre and on a very clear day, even Ireland. Following concise instructions from our friendly bus driver, a Yorkshire man who followed the lure of island-life many years ago, we hiked to the King’s Caves. His Crusade Hugging the coast we trekked along, passing the impressive basalt cliffs of The Doon. The caves are believed by many to be the location of Robert the Bruce’s fateful encounter while in hiding at the lowest point of his campaign against the English when he thought that all was lost. His observations of the persistent spider spinning a web until his home was complete encouraged him to continue the struggle. His crusade was eventually victorious. Blackwaterfoot by Jennifer Flynn. We stopped for lunch at the cave before heading back to the village for a rewarding pint at The Kinloch Hotel, followed by dinner at the Blackwaterfoot Lodge Hotel where we were staying. The next morning we took the bus to Lochranza with our fearless bus driver taking on some rather hair-raising manoeuvres. Hamish did not like it, but I really enjoyed seeing, from a whole new perspective, an island I have grown to love. Decided to Roam Arriving in Lochranza we were met by some deer which had made their way onto the stony beach to forage and we decided to roam around the castle. The weather had changed from bright and sunny to gloomy, leaving the edifice looking rather sombre, sitting atop its promontory out in the bay. Lochranza Castle dates to the 13th Century and has been owned by many families. It is said that Bruce himself once landed there on returning from Ireland. Jumping back on the bus, we headed south towards Brodick. Driving up through the hills we were treated to some spectacular mountain scenery. We had time for a quick drink at the always welcoming Ormidale Hotel before catching the ferry back to the mainland. I cannot wait to see where our next spontaneous visit to Arran takes us - for the place has so much to recommend. ACROSS 1. Morse or semaphore, eg (4) 3. Nellie's fruity dessert (5,5) 10. Terminal point of "the Road to the Isles" (7) 11. Distinctive flair (7) 12. Certainly not Morse's offshore area! (4,2,5) 13. Feel unwell in Baillieston (3) 14. Birthplace, in 1854, of Sir William Smith, the founder of the Boys' Brigade (6) 16. Stupid fellow's melody with school boss (7) 19. Largest settlement on the Knoydart peninsula (7) 21. Make a strongly worded criticism on how to get caught, it seems (3,3) 24. Hostilities in Rowardennan (3) 25. Eagle legend about location of Islay's airport (11) 27. Explain in general terms swapping for this rugby formation (4-3) 28. Very briefly (2,1,4) 29. Canna, Rum, Eigg and Muck (5,5) 30. Priest going east to seaside village in Fife (4) DOWN 1. Awful crime involving love in Strathearn village (6) 2. 1968 hit for Tom Jones (7) 4. Strathaird village overlooked by Ben Meabost with the Cuillins across Loch Scavaig (5) 5. The north-western point of mainland Scotland (4,5) 6. Maths take-away! (5) 7. Scotland's longest, narrow stretch of water, in Lorne (4,3) 8. Resort on the Firth of Forth -- could be Alder Bay (8) 9. Manual worker (8) 15. The Merry Widow and Orpheus in the Underworld, eg (9) 17. Island Royal Burgh and Prince Charles' Dukedom (8) 18. Central brick structures in Shetland village (3,5) 20. Porch (7) 22. Village on the shores of Loch Glencoul, opposite Kylesku (7) 23. Sewing aid (6) 25. Dog's angry, low snarl (5) 26. Get five topped in sea loch (5) Send your answer from the small grid to: editor@scottishislandsexplorer.com or text to 07510 127014 or by mailing it to SIE Elm Lodge IP22 1EA to enter the competition for a free year’s membership of The Islands Book Trust. Small grid answer to Crossword 27 was Rothesay Winner of Crossword 27: Fred Crawford Solution to Crossword 27 48 SCOTTISH ISLANDS EXPLORER MAY / JUNE 2017 MAY / JUNE 2017 SCOTTISH ISLANDS EXPLORER 49
Page 1 and 2: SCOTTISH ISLANDS THE UK’S ONLY MA
Page 3 and 4: Editor’s Welcome / Guest Columnis
Page 5 and 6: Five Weeks on the Monachs Five Week
Page 7 and 8: Bute has Four A-rated Attributes MI
Page 9 and 10: Colonsay’s Ruined Village Colonsa
Page 11 and 12: Hideaways in the Outer Hebrides Hid
Page 13 and 14: Page READERS’ Index Header OPPORT
Page 15 and 16: Machair Machair Unfortunately, the
Page 17 and 18: A Quiet, Natural History A Quiet, N
Page 19 and 20: The Flying Duchess The Flying Duche
Page 21 and 22: Skye Excites the Emotions Skye Exci
Page 23: Fibre Optic Broadband Fibre Optic B
Page 27: ISLAND AND WILDLIFE CRUISES OFF SCO

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