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Yumpu_ May_June 2017_02

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Skye Excites the Emotions<br />

Skye Excites the Emotions<br />

Skye Excites the Emotions<br />

Ron Hill shows how past events can add to our experience<br />

Psycho-geography is a fuzzy concept, but I like<br />

using the term to connect places to emotions<br />

and behaviours. In the Braes area on Skye I have<br />

discovered a range of emotions associated with the<br />

physical landscape, the remains of shielings on Ben<br />

Lee, 19th Century croft houses and, importantly, the<br />

monument on the roadside on the approach to<br />

Gedintailor which records an event on Tuesday, 18<br />

April 1882.<br />

On moving to Camustianavaig, in The Braes area<br />

near Portree, Skye, I discovered that as well as the<br />

house and the grounds, there was a book which<br />

came with the new ownership. The book is The<br />

Former Days by Norman Maclean, published in<br />

1945. It is based on personal reminiscences from<br />

living in the vicinity and includes the events which<br />

became known as ‘The Battle of the Braes.’<br />

Maclean describes the scene on that day when a<br />

force of 50 policemen (including 40 drafted from<br />

Glasgow) marched the seven miles from Portree to<br />

Balmeanach in Braes to arrest the lawbreakers - that<br />

is those men who broke the law on 7 April 1882<br />

when an attempt to evict seven men and three<br />

women from the Braes for grazing on Ben Lee<br />

without permission was de-forced.<br />

Public Embarrassment<br />

This was when a local crowd burnt the summonses,<br />

with public embarrassment for the Sherriff Officer,<br />

his assistant and the Estate Ground Officer. Maclean<br />

tells us it was a ‘grey dawn’ with poor weather<br />

conditions. He wrote, ‘Nobody could have wished a<br />

more forbidding reception on the part of the<br />

elements. The rain swept down Glen Varagil in sheets<br />

driven by a south-wester that blew with ice in its<br />

teeth. No greatcoats could stand up to rain driven by<br />

such a wind’<br />

We must also picture a wagonette rumbling<br />

behind the marching policemen including Sherriff<br />

Ivory (Sherriff of the County of Inverness-shire),<br />

Sherriff-Substitute Spiers (who administered the<br />

law on the Isle of Skye), and other local officials.<br />

Roger Hutchinson adds in his Martyrs: Glendale<br />

and the Revolution on Skye ‘…and several journalists<br />

set forth from Portree.’<br />

The 1880s was an age of mass communications and<br />

by 1881, 18 daily newspapers were appearing in<br />

London, 96 in the English provinces, 21 in Scotland<br />

and 17 in Ireland, (but only four in Wales) according<br />

to Kevin Williams in his Read All About It: A History<br />

of the British Newspaper. The actual ‘battle’ took place<br />

when the police arrested the five law-breakers which<br />

sparked a reaction from the Braes communities.<br />

Sharp Flints<br />

Maclean, in his romantic style, imagined the 15<br />

minute ‘battle’ as ‘When the invaders reached the<br />

south end of the pass, they were met with a fusillade<br />

of stones and clods. Sam (Nicolson) had some 20<br />

boys and girls under his command. They filled their<br />

pockets with sharp flints. ‘They have no guns’, cried<br />

Sam, ‘Let us charge them; throw stones and then<br />

run back up the brae’.<br />

This they did, hurling down the slope like a<br />

mountain torrent. Stopping where Sam stopped, a<br />

rain of stones descended on the police. Sherriff<br />

Ivory, the sacred representative of Queen Victoria,<br />

the embodiment of law and order, was hit with a<br />

clod on the jaw. For Sam never missed his target’.<br />

The Glasgow Evening Times of 21 April 1882<br />

reported, under the banner heading of ‘Return of<br />

the Glasgow Police’ - ‘The policemen arrived in<br />

Glasgow this forenoon and with a few exceptions<br />

have reported themselves for duty in the various<br />

districts from which they were drawn. They all bear<br />

traces of fatigue and exposure.’<br />

The Unhappy Crofters<br />

‘Telegraphing last night from Portree the special<br />

correspondent of The Herald says, the sudden and<br />

effective, if somewhat harsh, blows inflicted<br />

yesterday by the constabulary of Glasgow and<br />

Inverness on the unhappy crofters at the Braes have<br />

had a wonderful influence on restoring order.’<br />

Further in the same report, from the journalist<br />

who was in the Braes area on the day after the<br />

40 SCOTTISH ISLANDS EXPLORER MAY / JUNE <strong>2017</strong><br />

MAY / JUNE <strong>2017</strong> SCOTTISH ISLANDS EXPLORER 41

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