EXBERLINER Issue 163, September 2017

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REGULARS Round-up Food By François Poilâne Avo toast goes viral Already more of a millennial meme than an actual foodstuff, avocado toast has reached peak hype in Berlin, to the point where any new café has to have it on the menu. Hashtags at the ready, we sampled the toast of the town. The luxury of simplicity: Betty’n Caty Harry and Justin from Tinman François Poilâne The toast: Thick-cut avocado tossed in virgin olive oil and lemon on slightly toasted whole-grain bread from nearby artisanal bakery Delicate, topped with a poached egg and a sprinkle of chilli. The recent upscaling of this Prenzlauer Berg brunch favourite, from its tiny location on Knaackstraße, to a handsome two-level space up the street, had us worried for a minute. But Caty and Betty, the two smart German ladies behind the name, have managed a cosy transition to the next stage. It’s all there, as delicious as ever – the great granny-style pies and crumbles, the sophisticated salads and that damn fine quinoa quiche (glutenfree dough, goat cheese, figs and walnuts). Meanwhile, alcoholic beverages have joined the fresh-juice list, and expanded hours and outdoor seating allow for evening drinks and appetising dinner specials. The avocado toast has been a best-seller since the duo opened in 2013, and is set to remain one: great bread, a generous amount of perfectly seasoned avocado, a pro-poached egg, no unnecessary toppings or jarring flavours. It’s a hefty €8, but simplicity is a luxury in this town. The only hitch: more space hasn’t meant more place, so make sure you book a table on the weekend! — FP Knaackstr. 8, Prenzlauer Berg, Mon-Fri 8-23, Sat 9-23, Sun 9-19 The vegan dream: Two Planets The toast: Thick-sliced avocado, hummus and rocket on whole-wheat sourdough from Albatross Bakery in Kreuzberg, carrot salad, beans, homemade walnut pesto and a lemon slice on the side. Despite the fact that the mostly-vegan, British-Australian incarnation of Neukölln’s Two Planets café has been around for twice as long as the original American one, it’s taken us a while to warm up to it, both because of our loyalty to the former owner’s excellent bagels and because we really, really don’t like the catchphrase “dope-ass toast”. But you can’t deny the appeal of a thick slab of chewy sourdough topped with basically an entire avocado, served on a slate with side salads, pesto and lemon for DIY assemblage. It could use more zing – oh, for a squeeze of sriracha! – but it’s insanely filling, it’s served by congenial bearded vegan-bros who put Lou Reed on the stereo and exhibit their illustrator friend’s sausage cartoons, and did we mention it’s only €5.50? Dope-ass indeed. — JS Hermannstr. 230, Neukölln, daily 9-18 The maximalists: Tinman Betty’n Caty The toast: Avocado tossed with fresh lime, Maldon sea salt, olive oil and “Japanese spices” on rye-wheat sourdough from Albatross, with homemade Romesco paste, sesame seeds and dried chilli. When Tinman’s British-Australian duo decided to set up shop in Mitte (over drinks at the adjacent Wombat hostel bar), they thought it would be “unwise not to have avocado toast”. And since they came a little late in the game, they had to make a difference. Hence the daily bread deliveries from Kreuzberg on bike, the Romesco sauce and the Japanese “mystery spices”. One could argue that this mishmash of bursting flavours doesn’t let the fresh avocado shine as much as it should. Still, it’s a super-generous portion for €7.50 (put a poached egg or bacon on it for €1.50 extra), which the hungover hostel crowd ought to appreciate. They also serve a great deli ham-and-cheese sandwich and peanut-butter toast... and third-wave-style coffee with beans from the local Tres Cabezas roastery, so you can wash it down with a cortado. — FP Alte Schönhauser Str. 2, Mitte, Mon-Sat 8-18, Sun 9-18 The poor man’s version: Aprilkind The toast: Thin-sliced avocado, tomato, jarred red pesto and a fried bio egg on white sourdough from “a Turkish bakery”; side salad. This otherwise charming Friedrichshain newbie is a cautionary tale about the dangers of deciding to serve avocado toast without really getting it – there’s so little avocado on theirs that it’s more like an egg sandwich than anything else. But as served German-style with rocket, cucumbers, fruit slices and even one of those physalis garnishes, it’s a decent breakfast regardless. Really, though, the major selling point is the price: €4.50 is less than half of what Silo down the street charges for theirs, and you won’t have to listen to a Melbourneaccented lecture on the intricacies of coffee bean roasting while you’re eating. — JS Simon- Dach-Str. 15, Mon-Fri 8-19, Sat-Sun 9-19 Updates on the Berlin food scene, in your inbox every month. Sign up at exberliner.com/newsletter 54 60 EXBERLINER 150 163
REGULARS François Poilâne The 24-hour bagel: Benedict The toast: Roughly mashed avocado with chilli and coriander atop a slice of roasted tomato on a homemade poppy-seed bagel, sprinkled with chilli and coriander; scrambled eggs on the side. It’s been around since the beginning of the year, but Westside Tel Aviv import Benedict only recently made good on its promise to serve breakfast round the clock. Alongside multiple takes on the trademark Eggs Benny, this includes avocado “toast”, which only loosely fits the description: it’s served on a bagel, for one thing, and comes with a similarly large pile of Gouda-laced scrambled eggs. This mountain of food comes with a commensurate price, but the €12.50 you pay for it also gets you a coffee, tea or one of five varieties of mimosa, so not a bad deal overall. Enjoyed in Benedict’s polished, posh surroundings, it’s a breakfast experience worth the wait for your table. Or go at 3am and skip the wait altogether... — AL Uhlandstr. 49, Wilmersdorf, daily 24 hours future + rich the kid + zoey dollaz 13.10.17 · ColumbiaHalle hurts 15.11.17 · ufo im velodrom the analogues s gt pepper‘s lonely hearts club band the legendary album by THe beaTles and much more 02.10.17 · Huxleys white lies 10.10.17 · Kesselhaus Jones Fischladen Feel-good fishmonger Fish, fish everywhere! From the Gode Wind resto-boat in Lichtenberg to Funky Fish in City West to the Seafood Sundays pop-up at Birgit & Bier, you can’t swing a lobster without hitting a new seafood concept. Which is weird, because it’s not like Berlin has suddenly moved closer to the ocean. So where is all this fishy goodness coming from, and ought we to feel bad about eating it? Unless you go to Ernst and pay €135 a head for Dylan Watson to inform you that your freshwater eel’s name was Horace, the menus rarely say. The safest option for mindful Berliners is to buy their own fish, preferably from someone who knows his fins from his gills. Someone like John Jones, a 27-year-old Londoner who earned his Berlin bona-fides at seafood temples KaDeWe and Rogacki upon moving here in 2013. This March he struck out on his own with Jones Fischladen, a cheery blue corner storefront nestled among the Kitas and Bioläden of Pankow’s Florakiez. Here, he displays a small, pristine-looking selection of sea critters brought in almost daily from a carefully vetted list of suppliers. Most of the stock is regional (trout from Mecklenburg-Vorpommern; mackerel from the North Sea); the stuff that isn’t is at least caught as sustainably as possible. So you’ll see tuna, yes, but it’s fished with a pole and line instead of a net. The supersized Dorade pictured here comes from a small, family-owned fishery in Senegal – “guiltfree”, if you don’t count the carbon footprint. Of course good fish isn’t cheap, but you’ll probably save a few euros per kilo by making the trip up to Pankow (Jones’ North Sea cod, for example, runs about €22.50, €5 less than at Markthalle IX’s Küstlichkeiten). An eat-in counter with Fischbrötchen, oysters and seafood salads is in the works; for now, you can buy smoked mackerel and pickled herring from Bremen or a can of sardines from Portuguese supplier José Gourmet. It may not be enough to turn the tide of Berliners’ ravenous appetite for unsustainable seafood, but as a start, it’s going swimmingly. — JS Jones Fischladen Florastr. 67B, Pankow, Tue-Fri 9:30-19, Sat 9:30-17:30 Jane Silver SEPTEMBER 2017 cma songwriter series feat. brandy clark, marcus & levi hummon, michael tyler & angeleena presley 12.10.17 · Columbia Theater st. vincent 26.10.17 · Huxleys kasabian + slaves 31.10.17 · Columbiahalle the sisters of mercy + the membranes 12.09.17 · Columiahalle sparks 12.09.17 · Columbia Theater papa roach + callejon + frank carter & the rattlesnakes 16.09.17 · ufo im velodrom slØtface 17.09.17 · musik & frieden dispatch + current swell 19.09.17 · Columbia Theater third eye blind 19.09.17 · frannz the districts + brns 22.09.17 · musik & frieden michelle branch 23.09.17 · musik & frieden jarboe (ex-swans) + sultans of gedankenbrain feat. kristof hahn + father murphy 24.09.17 · Quasimodo the black angels + a place to bury strangers 01.10.17 · Huxleys www.trinitymusic.de weezer + the orwells 15.10.17 · Columbiahalle banks 28.10.17 · Huxleys kitty, daisy & lewis 08.11.17 · Columbiahalle tito & tarantula 03.10.17 · Columbia Theater r5 + jorge blanco + ryland 03.10.17 · bi Nuu loyle carner 15.10.17 · astra Kulturhaus mike watt (minutemen) il sogno del marinaio 18.10.17 · Quasimodo cunninlynguists feat. trizz & yamin semali 25.10.17 · Gretchen jordan rakei 27.10.17 · säälchen kellermensch 01.11.17 · musik & frieden amber run 02.11.17 · musik & frieden dragonforce + twilight force 02.11.17 · Columbia Theater rag‘n‘bone man 06.11.17 · Columbiahalle
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Berlin in English since 2002 163
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CONTENTS Exberliner 163 -September
Page 5 and 6: Berlin in English since 2002 €3.9
Page 7 and 8: BEST OF BERLIN — September 2017 B
Page 9 and 10: ELECTION 2017 Find your own Alterna
Page 11 and 12: ELECTION 2017 Bergpartei Slow anarc
Page 13 and 14: Members: 240 pre- and postmillenial
Page 15 and 16: ELECTION 2017 “It just works diff
Page 17 and 18: ELECTION 2017 Left: An SPD voluntee
Page 19 and 20: ELECTION 2017 And, even if they’r
Page 21 and 22: ELECTION 2017 “Schiller and Goeth
Page 23 and 24: ELECTION 2017 contract I’m paying
Page 25 and 26: WHAT’S ON — International Liter
Page 27 and 28: WHAT’S ON — International Liter
Page 29 and 30: WHAT’S ON — Russian Cosmism Fou
Page 31 and 32: WHAT’S ON — Al Gore but I would
Page 33 and 34: WHAT’S ON — Film Reviews punch,
Page 35 and 36: Preview Hounds of Love WHAT’S ON
Page 37 and 38: WHAT’S ON — Music Album release
Page 39 and 40: wonderful experience of actually se
Page 41 and 42: WHAT’S ON — Art ing (6-10pm), a
Page 43 and 44: WHAT’S ON — Art tions with Jero
Page 45 and 46: WHAT’S ON — Stage Interview “
Page 47 and 48: 6 QUESTIONS You once said breakdanc
Page 49 and 50: WHAT’S ON Through Sep 17. Starts
Page 51 and 52: ADVERTORIAL — The Berlin Guide U-
Page 53 and 54: ADVERTISING — The Language School
Page 55: COLUMN— The Gay Berliner Married
Page 59 and 60: REGULARS APP TEST App to school Sum
Page 61 and 62: COLUMN — Ask Hans-Torsten Bills,
Page 63: Campaign by n e w f r o n t e a r s
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EXBERLINER Issue 163, September 2017

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