Sailing Adventure: Sicily island is set out of the path of typical tourist trails, and we are treated to a private lunch in the garden, making the visit even more exclusive. This isn’t a restaurant, but home cooking that’s better than you’d find nearly anywhere on Sicily. After touring the museum and mystical island, it is a perfect way to end the tour. Soon it is time to sail to the Aegadian archipelago. The trio of islands – Favignana, Levanzo and Marettimo – are each beguiling in their own way. About nine miles from Trapani on the mainland, Favignana is shaped like a butterfly and a sailing yacht seems the perfect fit for exploring the quiet bays here. We glide in under the peacefulness of sail, and once the clanging of the anchor subsides we are left again in quiet bliss. We take the tender and tuck into Grotta Azzurra (after the colour of the water), Grotta dei Sospiri (the grotto of sighs) and Grotta degli Innamorati (lovers’ grotto), so named because of two identical rocks that stand side by side against the back wall. Levanzo is the tiniest and least populated of the islands. It is a favourite among nature lovers and photographers – the jagged coast and the archway rock formation of Cala Rotonda undulating into the distance. The island is so quiet, it’s hard not to be overwhelmed by the sound of the waves crashing, or my own footfall on the stone trails. But I’m far from the first to walk here, as evidenced by the cave art found in the Grotta del Genovese. Discovered in 1949, the wall paintings are from the Upper Palaeolithic period while decorative incised drawings might date back to the Neolithic period. Much of the historic architecture has been preserved amongst the Sicilian islands, contributing to their charm. Photo courtesy of Demetrius Fordham. the beach town of San Vito Lo Capo, which happens to host the Cous Cous Fest every September. We have couscous with seafood, braised beef and even couscous for dessert – a surprisingly delightful apricot flavour sealing off the evening. Wilderness is served up in as many different ways to anyone exploring Sicily on a luxury yacht, and this shoreline is different from the last – a wide open, desolate and wind-beaten beach backed with angular cliffs. The area is popular with rock climbers. Nearby is what MyLotty’s Captain, Bruno Montalbano, describes as one of the most beautiful places in northwest Sicily, one of the best Italian superyacht destinations. “The little fisherman’s village of Monte Cofano is where you have a quiet spot out of the traditional routes. It’s a nice spot for a swim and inland trekking along the little pathway of Monte Cofano named Punta del Saraceno.” Before heading further afield, Maura Zane of West Coast International, which manages MyLotty, suggests a 30 mile detour northward to Ustica. “Why Ustica? It is a very wild island with amazing waters,” says Zane. It’s known as the Black Pearl of the Mediterranean and is actually a burned-out underwater volcano, with only four square miles protruding above the surface. If it were entirely visible, Ustica would match Mount Etna. Instead, it makes for captivating diving – from caves to a site called Cape Gavazzi, the world’s first underwater archaeological museum, where remnants from Roman-era shipwrecks can be seen in 15 to 40 metres of water. The furthest west Aegadian island, Marettimo, is a steep, rocky peak rising from the sea. Its imposing form promises myriad hiking trails and expansive lookout points. The town of Marettimo itself is petite with whitewashed houses and the ruins of a Spanish castle that later served as a prison. There are no hotels here – visitors not lucky enough to arrive by private yacht, but transiting on ferry, must stay in accommodation run by local fishermen. Captain Montalbano suggests anchoring at Punta Troia, to the north side, and visiting the old castle for some peerless views and photographic opportunities. Or if the summer sun demands a dip, then take to Punta Cortiglio in the south, “where you can have a nice swim and fantastic snorkelling”, he says. There are few discoveries more enjoyable than off-the-beaten-path beauty spots, especially when they’re closer than you think. Ascending a rocky bluff on Marettimo island, I gaze out at the coastline below, the empty coves, the lack of civilisation – and I wonder what took me so long to get here. My Lotty is available for charter with West Coast International from €28,000 per week, westcoastint.com MS Credit: Boat International; m/v Lotty; Sicily Office of Tourism; Sicily Travel Set south in the Med, and therefore closer to the equator, Sicily’s season is happily stretched. Come as early as April and linger into October, and you’ll still find sunny, warm days – an improvement over autumn in the South of France when the weather begins to turn. It makes for a longer diving season as well, ideal for scuba enthusiasts looking to pack in more dives without extended travel times. To soak up some history above the water, there is still one more stop before the Aegadian Islands. Mozia is found off the western side of Sicily, further south from the city of Trapani. Set in the Stagnone Nature Reserve lagoon between Trapani and Marsala, this little island looks unassuming but its history stretches back more than 2,700 years to when the Phoenicians built a trade outpost and town. It is rare to see such well-preserved Phoenician ruins in Italy and a museum on the island is devoted to displaying artefacts discovered here. “We are able to have a very special welcome in Mozia,” says Zane of the private experience that the windmill-topped island lays out for charter guests, “tasting the local cuisine, custom made specifically for VIP clients.” This lagoon-bound Issue 6 >> 28 The grottoes and pristine waters of Marettimo make for fantastic swimming and snorkelling. Picture courtesy of Universal Images Group North America.
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