Equity Mag Jan_18 Book Folder

ENTREPRENEUR
This is an exciting
time for the brand,
even more so since the
menswear collection
is close to ready and
to be presented at this
year’s shows
however, was to find a fresh and ground-breaking Roberto
Cavalli brand. “He was one of the top designers for
women in the Nineties, being renowned for seduction. But
this concept has changed. A young woman from this era
has a different idea of seduction,” says Ferraris.
To diversify the portfolio and grow with the industry’s
demands, the CEO reassessed and restructured the
company’s Osmannoro manufacturing plant, bringing the
production of the men, children and textile accessories’
collections in-house. To branch out into certain markets,
especially Asia (for menswear) it became vital to manage
the collections from design and product development,
down to the supply chain, through to distribution.
“Internalising the men and children’s wear was important.
Knowing the brand, and the fact that it is a luxury fashion
lifestyle concept and has a distinctive DNA. One of the
things we are changing is to not delegate the business to
others. We bought back the licenses of menswear,
accessories, and every important aspect as we didn’t want
dilution,” Ferraris comments on the future of the brand.
Creative Director Paul Surridge was an essential element
of the mix. Previously at ACNE, the Swedish brand,
Surridge was knowledgeable of the trends the younger folk
leaned towards. “It took me time to convince him. He was
at a great contemporary brand, already engaging the
younger generation. So, he fit in with what we were looking
for,” says Ferraris. Surridge spends his days in Florence,
and has managed to respect the DNA of Robert Cavalli,
while embracing the future. “He was able to translate the
code of the brand and interpret it in a contemporary
seductive manner. It’s athletic but luxurious at the same
time,” he goes on to say, talking about the latest collection
that has progressed from seductive evening wear to
ensembles apt for the modern-day woman. Similarly,
developing the menswear collection has become vital for
the brand to succeed. Ferraris tells us that it’s impossible
to be successful in the Asian market without menswear
and accessories. When asked to define the collection, he
does so in Paul’s words, “progressive luxury”
Roberto Cavalli has been quite a renowned fixture
within the Middle East as well, with the core business
being womenswear, followed by lifestyle products
including watches and home décor. “We aren’t just luxury
fashion. Roberto Cavalli is a lifestyle concept that is a way
of life,” says Ferraris. People prefer to live in a similar
lavish environment, with home furnishing and high-end
pieces that surround them, not just slip in and out of attire
from time to time.
When asked if the brand creates collection to suit certain
markets, Ferraris replies, “We are going through the
evolution of the brand right now. It’s important to have
one voice, one identity. We aren’t doing collections
specific to a market or the locals, but we are careful the
way certain categories are presented. In Asia, it’s quite
casual, very bombastic, so we do tailor the pieces to
appeal to all. In the Middle East, historically, evening
gowns own the biggest share of the market. But with this
new collection, we are proposing a different way to be
seductive through trousers, coats and knitwear,” he tells
me with thrill.
“This is an exciting time for the brand, even more so,
since the menswear collection is close to ready and to be
presented at this year’s shows.” When our interview
ended, we looked at the latest womenswear collection,
noticeably characteristic with plenty for women who live
in trousers, pant suits and statement jewellery and slides.
Since I can’t be a muse, I could live in Roberto Cavalli’s
attire at least, right?
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EQUITY