Times of the Islands Winter 2017/18

Presents the "soul of the Turks & Caicos Islands" with in-depth features about local people, culture, history, environment, businesses, resorts, restaurants and activities.

Presents the "soul of the Turks & Caicos Islands" with in-depth features about local people, culture, history, environment, businesses, resorts, restaurants and activities.


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TIMES<br />

OF THE<br />

SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS WINTER <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> NO. 121<br />



Recovering from Hurricane Irma<br />


Seeking utopia on East Caicos<br />


Saving Grand Turk’s precious coral

H O W D O YO U L I K E Y O U R L U X U R Y ?<br />







The refined sophistication <strong>of</strong> The Palms on Grace Bay<br />

Beach, consistently honored by travel publications<br />

for its sense <strong>of</strong> elegance and easy atmosphere. The<br />

savvy chic <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Shore Club, <strong>the</strong> stunning new gamechanger<br />

on Long Bay Beach. Where whimsy rules and<br />

magic awaits around every corner. Each with a style<br />

and a vibe all its own. Both singular destinations, part<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Hartling Group’s stellar portfolio <strong>of</strong> luxury resorts<br />

which also includes The Sands at Grace Bay. Your call.<br />


649.946.8666<br />

<strong>the</strong>palmstc.com<br />


649.339.8000<br />


KIDS<br />

get a great vacation<br />

And so do <strong>the</strong> PARENTS<br />

Vacation time is a great time for everyone at Beaches ® Turks & Caicos. With five villages set on Grace Bay, voted one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> best beaches in <strong>the</strong> world, your clients will have so<br />

much to do, <strong>the</strong>y won’t know where to start. The 45,000 square foot Pirates Island Waterpark is perfect for kids, with 10 waterslides, including a SkySlide, plus a surf simulator<br />

and lazy river. Families can scuba dive* and snorkel along some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> best reefs in <strong>the</strong> Caribbean or swim-up to five bars (with nine more on dry land), because <strong>the</strong> drinks are<br />

always on <strong>the</strong> house. And 5-Star Global Gourmet TM dining means <strong>the</strong>y have 21 specialty restaurants to choose from, satisfying even <strong>the</strong> most finicky eaters. There are luxury<br />

accommodations for every size family, and exciting activities for kids, from an Xbox Play Lounge to a teens-only nightclub to our Very Important Kids (V.I.K.) Camp. Best <strong>of</strong> all,<br />

everything is unlimited and included – even <strong>the</strong> tip, taxes and Beaches transfers*. So while <strong>the</strong> kids are <strong>of</strong>f doing <strong>the</strong>ir own thing, <strong>the</strong> grown-ups can enjoy an escape <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir own.<br />





But when <strong>the</strong>y get toge<strong>the</strong>r, it’s <strong>the</strong> best time <strong>of</strong> all.<br />


In <strong>the</strong> U.S. and Canada: 1-800-BEACHES; In <strong>the</strong> Caribbean:1-888-BEACHES;<br />

In Turks & Caicos: 649-946-8000 or call your Travel Pr<strong>of</strong>essional<br />


*Visit www.beaches.com/disclaimers/times<strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong>islandswinter17 or call 1-800-BEACHES for important terms & conditions.

contents<br />

Departments<br />

6 From <strong>the</strong> Editor<br />

13 Getting to Know<br />

A Silver Lining<br />

By Jody Rathgeb<br />

Photos Courtesy Paul Wilkerson<br />

74 Faces & Places<br />

Junior Achievement <strong>2017</strong> Innovation Camp<br />

By Claire Parrish ~ Photos By Angela Musgrove<br />

75 About <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>/TCI Map<br />

81 Where to Stay<br />

83 Dining Out<br />

85 Subscription Form<br />

86 Classified Ads<br />

Features<br />

28 TCI Strong<br />

By Ben Stubenberg<br />

46 An Unexpected Adventure<br />

By John Galleymore<br />

50 Putting a Lid on It . . .<br />

By Peter Kerrigan, Engineering Design Services<br />

56 To Need and Not Have . . .<br />

By Craig Archibold, NW Hamilton Insurance<br />

Green Pages<br />

<strong>18</strong> Recovery2<br />

Story & Photos By B Naqqi Manco<br />

21 To <strong>the</strong> RESCQ<br />

Story & Photos By Don Stark<br />

24 Go Gently<br />

By Dr. Aaron Henderson & Dr. Heidi Hertler<br />

Photos By Dr. Heidi Hertler<br />

TIMES<br />

OF THE<br />


SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS WINTER <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> NO. 121<br />

On <strong>the</strong> Cover<br />

Sharon Weil Hornstein is <strong>the</strong> owner/photographer <strong>of</strong><br />

Sand Dollar Images. Of this her first contribution to<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> she says, “Up early, I looked out<br />

<strong>the</strong> window at just <strong>the</strong> right moment and dashed to<br />

Leeward Beach to make this image. For me, rainbows<br />

have always symbolized hope and opportunity and I<br />

believe this photograph captures <strong>the</strong> power, beauty and<br />

resilience <strong>of</strong> Turk & Caicos through Hurricanes Irma and<br />

Maria.” For more <strong>of</strong> Sharon’s Turks & Caicos images,<br />

visit www.sanddollarimages.com and follow her on<br />

Instagram @sanddollarimages and<br />

@turnstonehousetci.<br />

Astrolabe<br />

61 Starting Over<br />

By Dr. Donald H. Keith<br />

62 Modern Crusoes<br />

By Jeffrey Dodge<br />

67 Follow <strong>the</strong> Chimneys<br />

By Dr. Charlene Kozy<br />

28<br />

This October <strong>2017</strong> drone image shows that <strong>the</strong> hurricanes did not<br />

diminish <strong>the</strong> beauty <strong>of</strong> TCI’s beaches.<br />


4 www.timespub.tc

TurksAndCaicosProperty.com<br />

Parrot Cay Beachfront - Dhyani House<br />

Dhyani House in Parrot Cay is a “must see” property for discerning real estate buyers seeking<br />

peace, tranquility and more seclusion than many o<strong>the</strong>r Caribbean <strong>Islands</strong> or Providenciales have to<br />

<strong>of</strong>fer. This exclusive 4,691 sq. ft. 3 bedroom beachfront villa is set on an expansive 2.36 acres. Also<br />

included in this <strong>of</strong>fering, is an adjacent lot with an additional 2.31 acres <strong>of</strong> prime beachfront land.<br />

US$12,000,000<br />

Bernadette Hunt<br />

Cell ~ 649 231 4029 | Tel ~ 649 941 3361<br />

Bernadette@TurksAndCaicosProperty.com<br />

Bernadette has lived in <strong>the</strong> Turks and Caicos<br />

<strong>Islands</strong> for over 21 years and witnessed <strong>the</strong><br />

development and transition <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> islands<br />

into a significant tourist destination. Based<br />

on independent figures her gross transaction<br />

numbers are unrivalled. Bernadette has<br />

listings on Providenciales, Parrot Cay,<br />

North and Middle Caicos and is delighted<br />

to work with sellers and buyers <strong>of</strong> homes,<br />

condos, commercial real estate and vacant<br />

undeveloped sites.<br />

Long Bay Beachfront - Mandalay<br />

Mandalay is an exclusive 7 bedroom ultra luxury property located on more than 2 acres <strong>of</strong> Long Bay Beach,<br />

in a pristine, low-density area only minutes from Grace Bay. The villa and out buildings exemplify <strong>the</strong> new<br />

standard in luxury construction using creative materials, cutting edge technology and exceptional finishing.<br />

US$11,500,000<br />

Turks and Caicos Property is <strong>the</strong> leading<br />

independent real estate firm in <strong>the</strong> Turks and<br />

Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> with <strong>of</strong>fices located at Ocean<br />

Club West Plaza, Ocean Club West Resort<br />

and Le Vele Plaza on <strong>the</strong> Grace Bay Road.<br />

Bernadette’s reputation and success has been<br />

earned over time through her dedication,<br />

enthusiasm and passion for real estate. Her<br />

personal experience as having practiced law<br />

in <strong>the</strong> islands for more than 10 years toge<strong>the</strong>r<br />

with owning and renovating a number <strong>of</strong><br />

properties means she is well-placed to advise<br />

her customers and developers on what to<br />

anticipate in <strong>the</strong> purchasing and construction<br />

process.<br />

Bernadette delights in working in <strong>the</strong> real<br />

estate industry and her humor and energy<br />

make her a pleasure to work with.<br />

North Caicos - 200 Acre Development Site<br />

This is a rare opportunity for developers wishing to purchase a pristine 200 acre site in North Caicos,<br />

Turks and Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. The property features 1,650 ft. <strong>of</strong> coveted beachfront. Located on <strong>the</strong> on <strong>the</strong><br />

Nor<strong>the</strong>ast side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> island and consisting <strong>of</strong> 4 parcels <strong>of</strong> land (lots 109, 110, 111 and 112 in Block 50102).<br />

Please contact Bernadette if you would like<br />

to find out more about owning real estate in<br />

<strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />


from <strong>the</strong> editor<br />


Mirroring <strong>the</strong> country’s resilient spirit, <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />

flora bloomed back within weeks <strong>of</strong> Hurricane Irma’s strike.<br />

Give and Take Away<br />

A Christian worship song I’ve listened to for many years, quoting from <strong>the</strong> Bible’s Book <strong>of</strong> Job, says, “He gives<br />

and takes away . . . blessed be His name.” Whe<strong>the</strong>r or not you believe in an Almighty God, most <strong>of</strong> us believe in some<br />

form <strong>of</strong> cosmic reckoning, a universal balance, hence <strong>the</strong> adages “Every cloud has a silver lining” and “It all evens out<br />

in <strong>the</strong> end.”<br />

The Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> have long been blessed with an exceptionally beautiful, bountiful and sought-after<br />

natural environment in <strong>the</strong> turquoise sea, sugar-sand beaches, clear skies and warm climate. The people, too, are<br />

uncommonly kind, generous and gifted with an exuberant sense <strong>of</strong> humor and ability to persevere during hard times.<br />

The rapid changes <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> last three decades, both within <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> and <strong>the</strong> world at large, threaten to mar pristine<br />

resources and cause open hearts to clench.<br />

Yet an intervention <strong>of</strong> sorts took place this fall. The massive impact <strong>of</strong> Hurricane Irma and <strong>the</strong> threat <strong>of</strong> Hurricane<br />

Maria has “taken away.” Homes, ro<strong>of</strong>s, businesses, livelihoods, routines, plans and expectations were destroyed. But<br />

also broken down were barriers between races, religions and economic level, as folks came toge<strong>the</strong>r in recovery.<br />

“Given back” were fresh landscapes, bigger beaches, better strategies for <strong>the</strong> future, renewed appreciation <strong>of</strong> TCI’s<br />

attributes and most importantly, a new spirit <strong>of</strong> pride, cooperation and toge<strong>the</strong>rness. You’ll see it in <strong>the</strong> pages to<br />

follow. And at <strong>the</strong> “end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> day,” as <strong>the</strong>y say, I think <strong>the</strong> scale is tipping in <strong>the</strong> favor <strong>of</strong> blessed.<br />

Kathy Borsuk, Editor<br />

timespub@tciway.tc • (649) 946-4788<br />

6 www.timespub.tc



Five Distinct Villages to Choose From<br />


BEACHES ® Turks & Caicos, <strong>the</strong> last <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> true exotics, includes absolutely everything you<br />

could think <strong>of</strong> for <strong>the</strong> ultimate family vacation. A thrilling 45,000 square-foot waterpark with<br />

ten water slides and a surf simulator. Fabulous land and water sports* including unlimited<br />

scuba diving*. PADI even named Beaches Resorts one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> top five dive operations<br />

in <strong>the</strong> Western Hemisphere. Superb 5-Star Global Gourmet dining at 21 restaurants,<br />

and 14 bars serving unlimited premium spirits for adults. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic island entertainment<br />

for everyone. Cool hangouts for teens and Sesame Street ® fun and games for <strong>the</strong> kids.<br />

Complimentary accredited nannies for all ages, all day and into <strong>the</strong> night. Beautifully<br />

appointed family-sized rooms, suites, and villas, some even with butler service. Even <strong>the</strong> tips,<br />

taxes and Beaches transfers* are included. Take a closer look at Beaches Turks & Caicos<br />

and see why we continue to enjoy an unparalleled record <strong>of</strong> award-winning success.

S<br />




Savour <strong>the</strong> difference between<br />

dining and 5-Star Global<br />

Gourmet TM dining where<br />

<strong>the</strong> ingredients are freshly<br />

prepared, <strong>the</strong> décor is as<br />

au<strong>the</strong>ntic as <strong>the</strong> cuisine, and<br />

a globally-inspired menu <strong>of</strong><br />

culinary delights is created by<br />

internationally-trained chefs.<br />

&<br />

Turks Caicos<br />

Resort Villages & Spa<br />



For more information visit BEACHES.COM<br />

In <strong>the</strong> Caribbean: 1-888-BEACHES;<br />

in Turks & Caicos: 649-946-8000<br />

or call your Travel Pr<strong>of</strong>essional<br />



19<br />



*Visit www.beaches.com/disclaimers/times<strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong>islandswinter<strong>2017</strong>btc or<br />

call 1-800-BEACHES for important terms & conditions.<br />


2016<br />

VOTED<br />

WORLD<br />

19 YEARS in a Row at th<br />


Beaches ® Turks & Caicos has held <strong>the</strong> top spot at <strong>the</strong> World<br />

Travel Awards for nearly two decades by <strong>of</strong>fering guests more <strong>of</strong><br />

everything on <strong>the</strong> world’s best beach. Every land and water sport, an<br />

awe-inspiring waterpark with surf simulator, 5-Star Global<br />

For more information, visit BEACHES.COM<br />

OR CALL 1-888-BEACHES<br />

Gourmet TM dining at 21 incredible restaurants, and non-stop bars<br />

and entertainment — always included, always unlimited. And now<br />

we’ve added trend-setting food trucks, new live entertainment, and<br />

re-styled accommodations … making <strong>the</strong> World’s Best even better.<br />


TM/© <strong>2017</strong> Sesame Workshop<br />

*Airport transfers included. O<strong>the</strong>r transfers may be additional. Beaches ® is a registered trademark. Un

Five Distinct Villages to Choose From<br />


’S BEST<br />

e World Travel Awards<br />

Beaches Turks & Caicos<br />

is on <strong>the</strong> world’s<br />

#1 BEST BEACH<br />

by tripadvisor ®<br />

ique Vacations, Inc. is an affiliate <strong>of</strong> Unique Travel Corp., <strong>the</strong> worldwide representative <strong>of</strong> Beaches Resorts.

PG advert_Layout 1 5/10/17 9:10 AM Page 1<br />

TIMES<br />


Kathy Borsuk<br />

OF THE<br />



Claire Parrish<br />

“Escape to <strong>the</strong> extraordinary.”<br />


Craig Archibold, Kathy Borsuk, Jeffrey Dodge,<br />

John Galleymore, Dr. Aaron C. Henderson, Dr. Heidi Hertler,<br />

Dr. Donald H. Keith, Peter Kerrigan, Dr. Charlene Kozy,<br />

B Naqqi Manco, Claire Parrish, Jody Rathgeb,<br />

Ramona Settle, Don Stark, Ben Stubenberg.<br />


Jeffrey Dodge, John Galleymore,<br />

Gary James–Provo Pictures, Dr. Heidi Hertler,<br />

Sharon Weil Hornstein, Sara Kaufman,<br />

Dr. Donald H. Keith, Agile LeVin, B Naqqi Manco,<br />

Marta Morton, Angela Musgrove, NASA Image Library,<br />

Ingrid Pohl and Janet Pohl-Schollenberg, Dominick Rolle,<br />

Pat Saxton, Ramona Settle, Maria Simmons, Don Stark,<br />

Georgina Stubbs, Ben Stubenberg, Shaun Sullivan,<br />

Tom Tewksbury, Paul Wilkerson, Jack Williams.<br />


Wavey Line Publishing<br />


sou<strong>the</strong>astern, Hialeah, FL<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> ISSN 1017-6853 is<br />

published quarterly by <strong>Times</strong> Publications Ltd.<br />

Copyright © 20<strong>18</strong> by <strong>Times</strong> Publications Ltd. All rights reserved<br />

under Universal and Pan American Copyright Conventions.<br />

No part <strong>of</strong> this publication may be<br />

reproduced without written permission.<br />

Subscriptions $28/year; $32/year for<br />

non-U.S. mailing addresses<br />

Submissions We welcome submission <strong>of</strong> articles or photography, but<br />

assume no responsibility for care and return <strong>of</strong> unsolicited material.<br />

Return postage must accompany material if it is to be returned. In no<br />

event shall any writer or photographer subject this magazine to any<br />

claim for holding fees or damage charges on unsolicited material.<br />

While every care has been taken in <strong>the</strong> compilation and reproduction <strong>of</strong><br />

information contained herein to ensure correctness, such information is<br />

subject to change without notice. The publisher accepts no<br />

responsibility for such alterations or for typographical or o<strong>the</strong>r errors.<br />




PROVIDENCIALES TCI • US TOLL FREE 1.888.209.5582 • T 649.946.5096<br />


Business Office<br />

<strong>Times</strong> Publications Ltd., P.O. Box 234,<br />

Lucille Lightbourne Building #1,<br />

Providenciales, Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, BWI<br />

Tel/Fax 649 946 4788<br />

Advertising 649 431 7527<br />

E-mail timespub@tciway.tc<br />

Web: www.timespub.tc<br />

12 www.timespub.tc

getting to know<br />

Meteorologist Paul Wilkerson created a Facebook page that provided an important service during Hurricanes<br />

Irma and Maria.<br />

A Silver Lining<br />

Paul Wilkerson’s interest in local wea<strong>the</strong>r proved essential this season.<br />

By Jody Rathgeb ~ Photos Courtesy Paul Wilkerson<br />

Lots <strong>of</strong> people come to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos and fall in love with its turquoise waters. Paul Wilkerson went<br />

fur<strong>the</strong>r. The American meteorologist extended his love to <strong>the</strong> TCI’s clouds, winds, rains, dry spells . . .<br />

and particularly to its people who live in this special climate. For <strong>the</strong>m, he created a Facebook page that<br />

focuses on local wea<strong>the</strong>r, not knowing how popular and essential it would become during Hurricanes<br />

Irma and Maria.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 13

Paul Wilkerson and his family first visited <strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />

Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> from <strong>the</strong>ir home in Arkansas in 2014. “We<br />

realized we really loved <strong>the</strong> people and <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>,” he<br />

says. “Feeling like that, I naturally wanted to find a way to<br />

help with wea<strong>the</strong>r.”<br />

That season brought a tropical storm that solidified<br />

his purpose. “I had been monitoring a few <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> local<br />

Facebook pages and many were discussing how <strong>the</strong>y<br />

were caught <strong>of</strong>f guard and were frustrated with <strong>the</strong> lack<br />

<strong>of</strong> information <strong>the</strong>y could receive. I figured I could provide<br />

a connection point for solid, reliable information if<br />

<strong>the</strong>y wanted to use it.”<br />

He knew he was <strong>the</strong> guy for <strong>the</strong> job because <strong>of</strong> his<br />

regular paying job: non-commissioned <strong>of</strong>ficer in charge<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Arkansas National Guard’s 154th Wea<strong>the</strong>r Flight<br />

unit, a position he has held since 2007. He has worked in<br />

meteorology for 23 years, completing <strong>the</strong> requirements<br />

for a Bachelor’s Degree in <strong>the</strong> field at Mississippi State<br />

University and <strong>the</strong> United States Air Force wea<strong>the</strong>r observing<br />

and forecasting course. He also worked for <strong>the</strong> U.S.<br />

federal government as a civilian meteorologist from 2001<br />

to 2007.<br />

“While my primary pr<strong>of</strong>ession is military, <strong>the</strong> wea<strong>the</strong>r<br />

page is something I do in my free time when I am not<br />

at work,” Wilkerson explains. He was already running a<br />

Facebook page devoted to his area <strong>of</strong> Arkansas when he<br />

decided to perform a similar service for TCI.<br />

Sourcing, sharing<br />

He named <strong>the</strong> page, naturally, “Turks and Caicos Wea<strong>the</strong>r<br />

Info.” At first, followers were people who lived in <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>Islands</strong>, but <strong>the</strong> word spread. “Over time <strong>the</strong> page has<br />

morphed from a community information page to include<br />

travel wea<strong>the</strong>r information.” He says he tries to post a<br />

five-day forecast about every three days, although he will<br />

add posts to make corrections or discuss severe wea<strong>the</strong>r.<br />

He does <strong>the</strong> updates around his working hours, using his<br />

lunch break or posting before or after his <strong>of</strong>fice hours.<br />

“This is a personal page so I take care <strong>of</strong> it on my own<br />

time.”<br />

Wilkerson says <strong>the</strong> information on <strong>the</strong> page comes<br />

from many sources, including <strong>the</strong> National Hurricane<br />

Center, <strong>the</strong> Bahamas Meteorological Agency, <strong>the</strong> National<br />

Oceanographic and Atmospheric Administration and satellite<br />

photos <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Atlantic Ocean and Caribbean Sea.<br />

The Turks & Caicos are considered a “data sparse region,”<br />

so ga<strong>the</strong>ring as much information as possible is important,<br />

as well as having a meteorologist’s instinct. He can<br />

get fairly specific, he notes, able to say, for example,<br />

Even when home in Arkansas, Paul and Brande Wilkerson have <strong>the</strong><br />

Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>’ wea<strong>the</strong>r and people on <strong>the</strong>ir minds.<br />

“Hey, it should be raining over on Grace Bay, but Salt Cay,<br />

you guys are seeing mostly sunny skies.” He also pays<br />

attention to feedback on <strong>the</strong> page. “I always like to get<br />

‘on <strong>the</strong> ground’ information,” he says. “It helps increase<br />

<strong>the</strong> accuracy <strong>of</strong> forecasts, while also getting <strong>the</strong> people<br />

involved.”<br />

The meteorologist notes that he does not mean to<br />

replace wea<strong>the</strong>r information provided by <strong>the</strong> government<br />

through its Department <strong>of</strong> Disaster Management and<br />

Emergencies (DDME). “While I do provide relevant information,<br />

I always stress <strong>the</strong> importance [to Islanders] in<br />

listening to <strong>the</strong>ir local government <strong>of</strong>ficials as well as <strong>of</strong>ficial<br />

sources <strong>of</strong> information,” he says. “The government<br />

has <strong>the</strong>ir own operation channels, and <strong>the</strong>y are <strong>the</strong>re to<br />

provide for citizen safety.”<br />

Irma and Maria<br />

Having multiple sources <strong>of</strong> information proved to be<br />

invaluable during <strong>the</strong> hurricanes <strong>of</strong> <strong>2017</strong>, and it was<br />

during those stormy times that Wilkerson’s Facebook<br />

page soared in popularity and added to its mission.<br />

“During <strong>the</strong> run-up to Hurricane Irma, <strong>the</strong> web page saw<br />

astronomical growth within a matter <strong>of</strong> three weeks due<br />

to people looking for information,” he says. “Prior to <strong>the</strong><br />

hurricane, our monthly reach overall based on <strong>the</strong> site sta-<br />

14 www.timespub.tc

This Paul Wilkerson shot <strong>of</strong> a rainstorm approaching Whitby, North Caicos, is more typical <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> wea<strong>the</strong>r he sees during regular visits to <strong>the</strong><br />

Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. Hurricanes <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> power <strong>of</strong> Irma and Maria are quite uncommon!<br />

tistics was nearly 40,000 or so. The month <strong>of</strong> September<br />

alone, our reach was over 819,000!”<br />

Still working full time, Wilkerson met <strong>the</strong> challenge<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> storms. He watched as <strong>the</strong> barometric pressures<br />

in models <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> first disturbance over <strong>the</strong> open Atlantic<br />

Ocean stayed extremely low, indicating that a powerful<br />

storm was forming, and he says his heart sank when he<br />

saw <strong>the</strong> forecast tracks showed <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> in <strong>the</strong> bull’seye.<br />

“At that point, about five days out, it was time to<br />

start moving fast. After I would get <strong>of</strong>f work, I spent <strong>the</strong><br />

better part <strong>of</strong> six to eight hours at home doing nothing<br />

but wea<strong>the</strong>r and updates. I was getting up at 3:30 AM<br />

each morning so I could spend about three hours providing<br />

updates prior to heading to work. On <strong>the</strong> evening<br />

it hit, I believe I stayed up most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> night to provide<br />

information up to <strong>the</strong> point it was just passing near West<br />

Caicos. I got a few hours’ sleep, <strong>the</strong>n was up checking on<br />

friends and anyone I could.”<br />

He praises <strong>the</strong> support <strong>of</strong> his family during that<br />

time. His wife, Brande, was screening messages, getting<br />

information to him, helping to fix errors in posts and continuing<br />

to run a busy household with two daughters and<br />

multiple animals. “It was an absolute team effort between<br />

us,” he comments. “It was very special to me having her<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 15

Island Auto_Layout 1 12/12/17 12:49 PM Page 1<br />


For Quality & Reliable Service<br />

& Competitive Prices<br />

The Cruise Center, Grand Turk<br />

Neville Adams<br />

Tel: (649) 946-2042<br />

Cell: (649) 232-0933 or (649) 231-4214<br />

Email: nevilleadams@hotmail.com<br />

Providenciales<br />

Levoi Marshall<br />

Cell: (649) 441-6737<br />

Email: levoimarshall86@gmail.com<br />

Web: islandautorentalstci.com<br />

Ferry Fall 17_Layout 1 8/22/17 12:52 PM Page 1<br />

helping me and <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> through her dedication, too.”<br />

Meanwhile, at <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Facebook page,<br />

followers were checking <strong>the</strong>ir feeds frequently to get<br />

Wilkerson’s updates and sharing <strong>the</strong>m with both Islanders<br />

and relatives and friends in o<strong>the</strong>r countries. Many in <strong>the</strong><br />

U.S. were thankful to get information that <strong>the</strong>ir usual<br />

sources, such as The Wea<strong>the</strong>r Channel, were not sharing<br />

until <strong>the</strong> storm got closer to Florida.<br />

Then, after Irma hit <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>, Turks and Caicos<br />

Wea<strong>the</strong>r Info became more than a wea<strong>the</strong>r page. People<br />

were using it to find out about <strong>the</strong> status <strong>of</strong> island buildings<br />

and businesses and about <strong>the</strong> safety <strong>of</strong> family and<br />

friends. Wilkerson found himself a clearinghouse <strong>of</strong><br />

information as well as a meteorologist. “That can be hard<br />

because you have to sort through all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> information<br />

and try to determine what is real and true, and what is<br />

fodder and folks trying to capitalize for <strong>the</strong> sake <strong>of</strong> scamming<br />

or giving misinformation,” he recalls. “I tried really<br />

hard to vet everything and ensure that only accurate<br />

information was getting out through our channels.”<br />

Yet he was still doing wea<strong>the</strong>r as Hurricane Maria was<br />

approaching. “I monitored Maria as <strong>of</strong>ten as I could and<br />

tried to give timely updates. [The two storms] were similar<br />

in that <strong>the</strong>y developed in very good environments and<br />

took very similar tracks. And as we know, unfortunately<br />

Puerto Rico and o<strong>the</strong>rs <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Leeward <strong>Islands</strong> suffered<br />

much worse from Maria. TCI was very fortunate that<br />

Hurricane Maria made <strong>the</strong> turn when she did. TCI could<br />

have had a large number <strong>of</strong> deaths had Maria made a<br />

direct strike due to <strong>the</strong> amount <strong>of</strong> damage and compromised<br />

structures Irma left behind. Thankfully that didn’t<br />

happen.”<br />

* *<br />

Temporary suspension PROVO NORTH 12.30pm & 1.30pm Sept 1st to Oct 31st<br />

*<br />

Resumes Nov 1st<br />

Funding relief efforts<br />

The widening mission <strong>of</strong> Turks and Caicos Wea<strong>the</strong>r Info<br />

now included a relief fund that <strong>the</strong> Wilkersons began. “We<br />

had all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se new followers, and [we thought] it might<br />

be <strong>the</strong> right platform to try and help. It’s funny because<br />

at first, I think I had my sights set on $2,000 and Brande,<br />

I think, said $5,000. We would consider that a success. If<br />

you had told us at <strong>the</strong> beginning that our page would<br />

raise nearly $43,000, I might have laughed. But it shows<br />

you <strong>the</strong> compassion <strong>of</strong> people.”<br />

The fund drew more than 270 donors, and <strong>the</strong><br />

money was spread across many needs. Donations went<br />

to Pampered Paws, <strong>the</strong> Provo Rotary Club (to distribute to<br />

schools), TCI Boat Club (to help <strong>the</strong> elderly), Wellington<br />

Williams (early food distributions) and <strong>the</strong> TCI Reef Fund.<br />

Large portions <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> fund purchased such items as flash-<br />

16 www.timespub.tc

lights, mosquito repellent, sanitizer and feminine care<br />

products, which were sent to South Caicos via ferry, as<br />

that island was deemed most in need. Shipping and delivery<br />

efforts were helped by Tito and Atekah Seymour and<br />

Tom and Kate Tewksbury on Providenciales, and Earleen<br />

Elliott on South Caicos. Again, Wilkerson adds Brande to<br />

<strong>the</strong> list <strong>of</strong> helpers, as she was co-administrator <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

funds.<br />


A large portion <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks and Caicos Wea<strong>the</strong>r Info hurricane relief<br />

fund purchased supplies that were sent to South Caicos via ferry.<br />

Walkin May<strong>2017</strong>_Layout 1 5/28/17 5:45 PM Page 1<br />

Wilkerson continues to monitor TCI wea<strong>the</strong>r and<br />

regularly update <strong>the</strong> Facebook page, and he and his<br />

family continue to visit <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>, staying at various<br />

places beyond <strong>the</strong> usual tourist spots. He says he would<br />

like to visit all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> country’s islands eventually. And<br />

as for wea<strong>the</strong>r, he notes that information for <strong>the</strong> TCI is<br />

improving all <strong>the</strong> time. He was impressed with <strong>the</strong> DDME<br />

response to Hurricanes Irma and Maria, including shelter<br />

and utility information. “Information from multiple reliable<br />

sources is key to overall success,” he notes.<br />

Drops <strong>of</strong> moisture in <strong>the</strong> air are just small things,<br />

separate and almost insignificant. But when a lot <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m<br />

come toge<strong>the</strong>r, <strong>the</strong>y are a cloud. Likewise, people who<br />

come toge<strong>the</strong>r, particularly in an emergency, are a community,<br />

a family. Given that, <strong>the</strong> Wilkersons <strong>of</strong> Arkansas<br />

are most certainly a part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI family. a<br />

Jody Rathgeb is a long-time contributor to <strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>Islands</strong>. She spent <strong>the</strong> hours before, during and after<br />

Hurricanes Irma and Maria monitoring <strong>the</strong> Turks and<br />

Caicos Wea<strong>the</strong>r Info page on Facebook and sharing it with<br />

o<strong>the</strong>rs. She made many new Facebook friends!<br />




Lures and Live Bait<br />

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TURKS<br />

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PHONE: 649-946-4411<br />

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<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 17

green pages<br />

newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />

head <strong>of</strong>fice: church folly, grand turk, tel 649 946 2801 • fax 649 946 <strong>18</strong>95<br />

• astwood street, south caicos, tel 649 946 3306 • fax 946 3710<br />

• national environmental centre, lower bight road, providenciales<br />

parks division, tel 649 941 5122 • fax 649 946 4793<br />

fisheries division, tel 649 946 4017 • fax 649 946 4793<br />

email environment@gov.tc or dema.tci@gmail.com • web www.environment.tc<br />

This is a fine example <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caicos pine, TCI’s National Tree, standing tall prior<br />

to <strong>the</strong> furious winds <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>2017</strong> hurricanes.<br />

Recovery 2<br />

How did <strong>the</strong> Caicos Pine Recovery Project fare after <strong>the</strong> <strong>2017</strong> hurricanes?<br />

Story & Photos By B Naqqi Manco, DECR Terrestrial Ecologist/ Environmental Officer<br />

Invasive scale insect, Mediterranean black aphid, sooty mould fungus, intense drought, flooding, out-<strong>of</strong>season<br />

wildfires . . . our Caicos pine, <strong>the</strong> National Tree <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, has had a difficult<br />

time <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> last 20 years. As two Category 5 hurricanes approached TCI in September <strong>2017</strong>, we had to<br />

secure <strong>the</strong> nursery, <strong>of</strong>fice base and seed orchard as much as possible.<br />

<strong>18</strong> www.timespub.tc

green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />

Trays <strong>of</strong> newly planted seeds were filed gently away<br />

under tables in <strong>the</strong> Government Farm packing house,<br />

and saplings were bundled toge<strong>the</strong>r and surrounded<br />

with makeshift cord fences in <strong>the</strong> nursery. As for <strong>the</strong><br />

field sites, we just had to hope for <strong>the</strong> best. The passage<br />

<strong>of</strong> Hurricanes Irma and Maria devastated infrastructure<br />

throughout <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>, and <strong>the</strong> weeks following saw <strong>the</strong><br />

Caicos Pine Recovery Project team reassigned to relief<br />

work. So <strong>the</strong> pines would have to wait.<br />

The first visit to <strong>the</strong> nursery after Irma was grim. The<br />

entire structure, which stood since 2009, was collapsed.<br />

Beams were broken, shade cloth was torn. Fortunately,<br />

most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> saplings were only barely damaged, though<br />

we lost a few. While <strong>the</strong> seed trays remained put, <strong>the</strong> wind<br />

and blowing rain introduced deadly damping-<strong>of</strong>f fungus,<br />

which meant out <strong>of</strong> over 10,000 seedlings planted, only<br />

a handful survived <strong>the</strong>ir crucial first weeks. Numerous<br />

trees in <strong>the</strong> seed orchard were blown over, and following<br />

Hurricane Maria (which blew in from <strong>the</strong> opposite directions<br />

as Irma) many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m were toppled <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r way,<br />

sustaining root damage. Weakened, <strong>the</strong>y were attacked<br />

aggressively by pine tortoise scale.<br />

The field sites faired somewhat better, though access<br />

trails and firebreaks were largely filled with blown vegetation.<br />

Our Middle Caicos research canopy was destroyed,<br />

but <strong>the</strong> Caicos Pine Yard Trail signs and markers were<br />

unsca<strong>the</strong>d. Surprisingly, only a few large pines were<br />

blown over, but numerous newly planted saplings in <strong>the</strong><br />

Diamond Jubilee Pine Yard were toppled and had to be<br />

propped up; several were lost from intense root damage.<br />

Thankfully, we had been able to make early cone collections<br />

from both Pine Cay and Middle Caicos several<br />

weeks before <strong>the</strong> storms, and so <strong>the</strong> fact that cones and<br />

seeds were mostly blown away was not much <strong>of</strong> a threat<br />

to <strong>the</strong> project. After things began returning to normal,<br />

<strong>the</strong> cones were cleaned and we now have several thousand<br />

seeds to plant again. The downed trees in <strong>the</strong> seed<br />

orchard were propped back up (though we did lose a<br />

few), and <strong>the</strong> nursery trees were pruned and cleaned up.<br />

Following <strong>the</strong> storms, we decided to expand Caicos<br />

Pine Awareness Week, originally <strong>the</strong> first week <strong>of</strong><br />

December, to include <strong>the</strong> entire month <strong>of</strong> December. With<br />

media spots, tree plantings and a Christmas tree lighting<br />

ceremony, Caicos pines featured prominently through <strong>the</strong><br />

The Caicos Pine Recovery Project Nursery at <strong>the</strong> Government Farm was completely destroyed by Hurricane Irma. Materials for its rebuild<br />

(lumber, nails, shade cloth and ground cloth) are sorely needed.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 19

green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />

From top: An important study tree in <strong>the</strong> strongest remaining Caicos<br />

pine population in Middle Caicos was blown over, but it may survive<br />

if its roots were not too badly damaged.<br />

A Caicos pine sapling at <strong>the</strong> DECR Native Plant Garden in Kew, North<br />

Caicos was planted by primary school students.<br />

month. On December 6, <strong>2017</strong>, <strong>the</strong> first Caicos pine to<br />

be planted at <strong>the</strong> TCI Government property was set into<br />

<strong>the</strong> ground at <strong>the</strong> National Environmental Centre on <strong>the</strong><br />

Lower Bight Road by students from Ian<strong>the</strong> Pratt Primary<br />

School. The following day, students from Charles Hubert<br />

James Primary School helped plant an additional Caicos<br />

pine sapling in <strong>the</strong> DECR Native Plant Garden in Kew,<br />

North Caicos. For <strong>the</strong> first time, one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caicos pines<br />

planted in this garden three years ago was featured as <strong>the</strong><br />

community Christmas tree for <strong>the</strong> lighting ceremony on<br />

December 22.<br />

There’s still a lot <strong>of</strong> work to do towards bringing <strong>the</strong><br />

Caicos Pine Recovery Project back to its full capacity. Our<br />

priority is rebuilding <strong>the</strong> nursery, though new materials<br />

(lumber, nails, shade cloth and ground cloth) are sorely<br />

needed. Intense rain following <strong>the</strong> hurricanes has flooded<br />

many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> field sites, so work <strong>the</strong>re is delayed—but <strong>the</strong>y<br />

all require extensive trail and firebreak clearing, barrier<br />

repair and ground work.<br />

You can help with <strong>the</strong> recovery efforts toward protection<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caicos pine for future generations by<br />

donations into <strong>the</strong> DECR/Caicos Pine Recovery Project<br />

account at Sunshine Nursery in Providenciales! a<br />

20 www.timespub.tc

green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />

Until <strong>the</strong> 1980s when a coral disease attacked, Elkhorn corals were one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most common reef-building corals in <strong>the</strong> Caribbean.<br />

To <strong>the</strong> RESCQ<br />

Saving Grand Turk’s precious coral after <strong>the</strong> hurricanes.<br />

Story & Photos By Don Stark, Chairman, Turks & Caicos Reef Fund<br />

In September <strong>2017</strong>, back-to-back hurricanes severely damaged <strong>the</strong> island <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk (as well as<br />

o<strong>the</strong>r islands in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos). But not all <strong>the</strong> damage was readily visible. At <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn tip <strong>of</strong><br />

Grand Turk, in about four to six feet <strong>of</strong> water, <strong>the</strong>re exists a lovely stand <strong>of</strong> critically endangered Elkhorn<br />

coral (Acropora palmata). Elkhorn corals are large, fairly fast growing, branching corals that, up until<br />

<strong>the</strong> 1980s, were one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most common reef-building corals that protected beaches throughout <strong>the</strong><br />

Caribbean. Unfortunately, a coral disease attacked Elkhorn corals throughout <strong>the</strong> region and virtually<br />

wiped <strong>the</strong>m out. So protecting <strong>the</strong> remaining healthy Elkhorn reefs is important.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 21

green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />

22 www.timespub.tc<br />

Sadly, many large branches were broken <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong><br />

Elkhorn corals on <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn tip <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk by <strong>the</strong><br />

waves generated by <strong>the</strong> hurricanes. Some may have naturally<br />

survived, as this is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> methods by which<br />

Elkhorn coral propagate, but many were laying in sand<br />

and would likely have died.<br />

The Turks & Caicos Reef Fund (TCRF), <strong>the</strong> only<br />

active environmental non-governmental organization<br />

in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, was contacted by DECR<br />

Environmental Officer Katharine Hart to see if <strong>the</strong>re<br />

was anything that could be done to save <strong>the</strong>se critically<br />

endangered corals. Fortunately, <strong>the</strong> TCRF was already<br />

working on propagating Elkhorn corals in a nursery set<br />

up a year earlier <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> northwest coast <strong>of</strong> Providenciales<br />

and agreed to assist with <strong>the</strong> rescue effort.<br />

The TCRF’s coral nursery work is funded through<br />

a European Union programme called BEST (Voluntary<br />

Scheme for Biodiversity and Ecosystem Services in<br />

Territories <strong>of</strong> European Overseas). The grant was awarded<br />

to Wageningen Marine Research based in <strong>the</strong> Ne<strong>the</strong>rlands<br />

and <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos Reef Fund is one <strong>of</strong> four organizations<br />

selected to work with <strong>the</strong> Dutch researchers on<br />

this research project. It is called RESCQ (Restoration <strong>of</strong><br />

Ecosystem Services and Coral Reef Quality). The goal is<br />

to test a new type <strong>of</strong> nursery set-up—attaching corals to<br />

bamboo poles suspended by ropes on each end—what<br />

are called coral ladders. The design keeps <strong>the</strong> corals suspended<br />

in <strong>the</strong> water column where <strong>the</strong>y can have easy<br />

access to all <strong>the</strong> nutrients and sunlight <strong>the</strong>y need to grow.<br />

Following <strong>the</strong> storms, Katharine Hart ga<strong>the</strong>red up<br />

many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> broken pieces <strong>of</strong> Elkhorn coral and placed<br />

<strong>the</strong>m in improvised trays placed on cinder blocks to keep<br />

<strong>the</strong>m <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> sand until TCRF staff and volunteers could<br />

install <strong>the</strong> coral ladders. A total <strong>of</strong> four ladders have been<br />

installed <strong>of</strong>f shore from Governor’s Beach on Grand Turk,<br />

not far from <strong>the</strong> Biorock structure that was set up a number<br />

<strong>of</strong> years ago in an earlier effort to grow corals.<br />

The salvaged pieces <strong>of</strong> coral were frequently too large<br />

for <strong>the</strong> ladders, so were broken into smaller pieces with a<br />

hammer and chisel. Each fragment is measured and photographed<br />

with its identification tag before it is hung on a<br />

ladder, using mon<strong>of</strong>ilament line to secure <strong>the</strong>m. The line<br />

is quickly grown over so that within a few weeks, where<br />

At left, from top: This is a large piece <strong>of</strong> broken Elkhorn coral before<br />

fragmenting. Here are multiple pieces <strong>of</strong> Elkhorn coral after fragmenting,<br />

ready to be used in <strong>the</strong> nursery. This fully populated coral ladder<br />

keeps <strong>the</strong> corals suspended so <strong>the</strong>y have easy access to nutrients<br />

and sunlight.

green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />

<strong>the</strong> mon<strong>of</strong>ilament touches live coral it is covered with live<br />

coral. So many fragments <strong>of</strong> coral were salvaged that <strong>the</strong><br />

four ladders were quickly filled with 261 coral fragments.<br />

It is expected that <strong>the</strong>se corals will begin growing<br />

again and will do so fairly quickly. The Elkhorn corals<br />

in <strong>the</strong> Providenciales nursery nearly doubled in size in<br />

six to nine months, after which <strong>the</strong>y are refragmented<br />

(broken into smaller pieces) and returned to <strong>the</strong> nursery.<br />

Eventually, all <strong>the</strong> nursery corals will be returned to<br />

<strong>the</strong> reefs from which <strong>the</strong>y were collected in an effort to<br />

re-establish healthy growths <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se important corals<br />

throughout <strong>the</strong> TCI. After just a month in <strong>the</strong> Grand Turk<br />

nursery, <strong>the</strong>re is already evidence <strong>of</strong> new growth on many<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> corals and wounds caused by <strong>the</strong> storms and <strong>the</strong><br />

fragmenting <strong>of</strong> larger pieces are beginning to heal.<br />

The biggest challenge in keeping <strong>the</strong> corals healthy<br />

and growing is controlling algal growth on <strong>the</strong> ladders<br />

and on wound sites on <strong>the</strong> corals <strong>the</strong>mselves. At least<br />

biweekly trips to <strong>the</strong> nursery are required by scuba diver<br />

volunteers, DECR staff and TCRF staff using toothbrushes<br />

to remove algae from <strong>the</strong> coral fragments.<br />

Eventually, <strong>the</strong> corals will be transplanted back to <strong>the</strong><br />

reef site. Two techniques will be used to secure <strong>the</strong> fragments.<br />

The first is direct attachment to hard substrate<br />

(rock) using cement or epoxy. This technique will be used<br />

for larger fragments. The o<strong>the</strong>r technique is to use mon<strong>of</strong>ilament<br />

line to attach smaller coral fragments to a rebar<br />

structure secured to <strong>the</strong> sea floor. Eventually, <strong>the</strong> rebar<br />

will be invisible as it will be completely grown over by <strong>the</strong><br />

corals.<br />

In <strong>the</strong> end, it took a team effort by <strong>the</strong> DECR, TCRF,<br />

Bohio Resort dive staff and Blue Water Divers dive staff to<br />

save so many critically endangered corals that would have<br />

been o<strong>the</strong>rwise lost. In a few years, this post-hurricane<br />

effort will yield healthy new stands <strong>of</strong> Elkhorn coral <strong>of</strong>f<br />

<strong>the</strong> coast <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk. a<br />

From top: This fragment <strong>of</strong> Elkhorn coral is already showing new<br />

growth fingers. Attaching coral fragments to a rebar structure is one<br />

way to transplant <strong>the</strong> corals back to <strong>the</strong> reef site.<br />

About TCRF<br />

Founded in 2010, <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos Reef Fund is <strong>the</strong><br />

only active environmental advocacy organization in <strong>the</strong><br />

TCI. It is an all volunteer-run organization that provides<br />

funding for education, research and conservation programs<br />

to individuals, organizations and agencies that<br />

help to preserve and protect <strong>the</strong> environment <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. Our goal is to have at least 85%<br />

<strong>of</strong> all funds raised through voluntary contributions from<br />

divers and snorkelers visiting <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong><br />

directed to <strong>the</strong> Fund’s programs.<br />

Anyone wishing to donate or assist <strong>the</strong> TCRF in any<br />

way can contact <strong>the</strong>m at www.TCReef.org. Scuba divers<br />

visiting <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> are encouraged to make a $10<br />

donation through <strong>the</strong> purchase <strong>of</strong> a dive tag that can<br />

be attached to <strong>the</strong>ir dive gear to show <strong>the</strong>ir support.<br />

Snorkelers can show <strong>the</strong>ir support through <strong>the</strong> $5 purchase<br />

<strong>of</strong> a pink or blue silicone wristband. A complete<br />

list <strong>of</strong> outlets for TCRF merchandise can be found on <strong>the</strong><br />

organization’s website.<br />

NOTE: This document has been produced with <strong>the</strong> financial<br />

assistance <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> European Union. The contents <strong>of</strong><br />

this document are <strong>the</strong> sole responsibility <strong>of</strong> Wangeningen<br />

Marine Research and <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos Reef Fund and<br />

can under no circumstances be regarded as reflecting <strong>the</strong><br />

position <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> European Union.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 23

green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />

The Arch is a 10 metre dive site <strong>of</strong>f South Caicos. Schools <strong>of</strong> fish were observed in this area, post-Hurricanes Irma and Maria.<br />

Go Gently<br />

The delicate nature <strong>of</strong> coral reefs.<br />

By Dr. Aaron C. Henderson & Dr. Heidi Hertler, The School for Field Studies,<br />

Center for Marine Resource Studies, South Caicos ~ Photos By Dr. Heidi Hertler<br />

Coral reefs are perhaps <strong>the</strong> most visually stunning ecosystems in <strong>the</strong> marine environment. Often<br />

described as <strong>the</strong> “rainforests <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sea,” <strong>the</strong>y abound with colourful life, ranging from <strong>the</strong> corals <strong>the</strong>mselves<br />

to <strong>the</strong> multitude <strong>of</strong> fish species that dart around <strong>the</strong> reef. Unfortunately, <strong>the</strong>y are also one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

most threatened ecosystems on <strong>the</strong> planet, and prominent coral scientists have predicted that <strong>the</strong>se<br />

wonderful oases <strong>of</strong> biodiversity and productivity might become a rarity within <strong>the</strong> next 10 to 20 years.<br />

24 www.timespub.tc

green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />

The threats that coral reefs face are numerous.<br />

Diseases caused by bacteria, viruses and fungi have<br />

become increasingly common in recent decades. Coral<br />

bleaching events have also become more prevalent; <strong>the</strong><br />

last year has seen Australia’s Great Barrier Reef experience<br />

a 29% decline in live coral due to bleaching, with<br />

some areas <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> reef losing as much as 70% <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir live<br />

coral. Overfishing and destructive fishing practices also<br />

impact <strong>the</strong> health <strong>of</strong> coral reefs by disrupting <strong>the</strong>ir natural<br />

ecological process and by causing physical damage to<br />

<strong>the</strong> reef structure.<br />

Coastal development is ano<strong>the</strong>r major cause for<br />

concern. Coral reefs are intricately linked to mangrove<br />

forests through ecological connectivity (for example,<br />

many reef fish live among <strong>the</strong> mangrove roots early in<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir life, where <strong>the</strong>y are provided with abundant food<br />

and protection from larger predators, before moving<br />

out to <strong>the</strong> reef to complete <strong>the</strong> adult phase <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir life).<br />

Fur<strong>the</strong>rmore, <strong>the</strong> mangroves bind sediments that might<br />

o<strong>the</strong>rwise be carried onto <strong>the</strong> reef by water currents,<br />

covering <strong>the</strong> corals and eventually smo<strong>the</strong>ring <strong>the</strong>m.<br />

Unfortunately, mangroves tend to be <strong>the</strong> first casualties<br />

<strong>of</strong> coastal development, removed to provide space for<br />

marinas, promenades or beaches. The increased development<br />

brings more people to <strong>the</strong>se coastal areas,<br />

resulting in more pollution, more water-based activity,<br />

and a greater demand for seafood—all <strong>of</strong> which add to<br />

<strong>the</strong> environmental stress.<br />

Then we have <strong>the</strong> big one: climate change. While <strong>the</strong><br />

most publicised effect <strong>of</strong> climate change is <strong>the</strong> increase<br />

in air and sea temperature, o<strong>the</strong>rwise known as global<br />

warming, this is only half <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> problem when it comes<br />

to <strong>the</strong> marine environment (albeit a huge problem, and<br />

one associated with <strong>the</strong> aforementioned diseases and<br />

coral bleaching events). Sometimes referred to as “global<br />

warming’s evil twin,” ocean acidification is quite possibly<br />

<strong>the</strong> biggest threat to not only coral reefs, but to<br />

<strong>the</strong> oceans as a whole. At <strong>the</strong> onset <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Industrial<br />

Revolution, <strong>the</strong> concentration <strong>of</strong> atmospheric carbon<br />

dioxide was approximately 270 parts per million (ppm),<br />

<strong>the</strong> same level that it had been for <strong>the</strong> preceding 10,000<br />

years. Since <strong>the</strong>n, <strong>the</strong> concentration <strong>of</strong> atmospheric carbon<br />

dioxide has increased to over 400 ppm due mainly<br />

to <strong>the</strong> burning <strong>of</strong> fossil fuels—an increase <strong>of</strong> 33% in less<br />

than 300 years.<br />

A large proportion <strong>of</strong> atmospheric carbon dioxide<br />

From top: SFS CMRS staff perform <strong>the</strong> first visual survey <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> area<br />

around The Plane on South Caicos since Hurricanes Irma and Maria<br />

struck. Shallow reefs absorb much <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> energy associated with<br />

storms. The reefs <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> south end <strong>of</strong> Long Key are still thriving.<br />

is absorbed by <strong>the</strong> oceans, so increased atmospheric<br />

carbon dioxide naturally leads to increased carbon dioxide<br />

in <strong>the</strong> water, and this is where <strong>the</strong> problem <strong>of</strong> ocean<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 25

green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />

acidification begins. Carbon dioxide molecules and water<br />

molecules react to form carbonic acid, but carbonic acid<br />

is a relatively unstable molecule and quite readily breaks<br />

apart into two components, namely hydrogen ions and<br />

bicarbonate. It is <strong>the</strong> increase in hydrogen ions that is<br />

reducing <strong>the</strong> pH <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ocean, causing it to become more<br />

acidic. The bad news for animals that produce hard structures<br />

such as shells, and our corals that produce <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

characteristic limestone skeleton, is that <strong>the</strong> decreasing<br />

pH <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> oceans causes <strong>the</strong>se structures to dissolve.<br />

Studies on small marine molluscs known as sea butterflies<br />

have shown that <strong>the</strong>ir shells completely dissolve in a<br />

matter <strong>of</strong> days at pH levels that our oceans are predicted<br />

to reach by <strong>the</strong> middle <strong>of</strong> this century.<br />

But again, this is only one part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> problem.<br />

Carbonate is a substance that occurs naturally in ocean<br />

water, and many organisms combine it with calcium to<br />

produce <strong>the</strong>ir shells. Corals also use it to produce <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

stony skeleton—<strong>the</strong> very framework <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> reef. But, carbonate<br />

and hydrogen ions are naturally attracted to each<br />

o<strong>the</strong>r and <strong>the</strong>y bind toge<strong>the</strong>r to form ano<strong>the</strong>r bicarbonate.<br />

Although this process helps to reduce <strong>the</strong> rate <strong>of</strong> acidification<br />

by trapping <strong>the</strong> hydrogen ions in <strong>the</strong> bicarbonate<br />

molecule, it has <strong>the</strong> unwanted effect <strong>of</strong> also trapping<br />

<strong>the</strong> carbonate, meaning that <strong>the</strong>re is less free carbonate<br />

available for animals that use it to form <strong>the</strong>ir shells or<br />

skeletons. So our corals are facing a two-pronged ocean<br />

acidification attack: on one side <strong>the</strong> decreasing pH <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

ocean makes <strong>the</strong>ir skeletons more prone to dissolution,<br />

and on <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r side <strong>the</strong>re is less carbonate available to<br />

<strong>the</strong>m to form <strong>the</strong>ir skeletons in <strong>the</strong> first place!<br />

In <strong>the</strong> grand scheme <strong>of</strong> things, human impacts are a<br />

relatively recent problem for coral reefs. Bearing in mind<br />

that <strong>the</strong> coral reefs we see today have been growing for<br />

thousands, and in some cases millions <strong>of</strong> years, <strong>the</strong>y have<br />

obviously had to contend with entirely natural sources <strong>of</strong><br />

disruption during <strong>the</strong>ir formation. Wave action, storms<br />

and hurricanes are just some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> natural phenomena<br />

that shape <strong>the</strong> reefs and control <strong>the</strong>ir development. Even<br />

reefs that are geographically close to each o<strong>the</strong>r can be<br />

dominated by entirely different coral species, depending<br />

on <strong>the</strong> physical conditions locally. Reefs that are found in<br />

areas with constant wave action tend to be dominated by<br />

robust boulder-like coral species, while <strong>the</strong> more delicate<br />

branching species are limited to less energetic environments.<br />

However, even <strong>the</strong> most sheltered coral reefs<br />

From top: The hurricanes didn’t seem to have affected <strong>the</strong> thriving<br />

schools <strong>of</strong> fish on South Caicos reefs, although some fragmentation<br />

<strong>of</strong> corals was observed.<br />

are prone to occasional high-energy wave action during<br />

storms and hurricanes, and <strong>the</strong> frequency <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se events<br />

will have a strong controlling effect on <strong>the</strong> types <strong>of</strong> living<br />

coral present at any one time.<br />

26 www.timespub.tc

green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />

Above: On <strong>the</strong> South Caicos reefs, coral are healthy and <strong>the</strong> system is<br />

thriving at 10 metres.<br />

And so, with all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> potential challenges that <strong>the</strong>y<br />

face, how have <strong>the</strong> coral reefs <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />

<strong>Islands</strong> fared? The good news is that <strong>the</strong>y are actually<br />

among <strong>the</strong> healthiest <strong>of</strong> all <strong>the</strong> reefs in <strong>the</strong> tropical western<br />

Atlantic. That is not to say that <strong>the</strong>y are in absolutely<br />

pristine condition—ocean acidification is a global problem,<br />

and coastal development continues to be a matter<br />

for concern, but our reefs have been relatively free <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

disease outbreaks and mass bleaching events that have<br />

afflicted coral reefs elsewhere.<br />

At <strong>the</strong> SFS Center for Marine Resource Studies on<br />

South Caicos, we undertake research on many aspects<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> local marine environment, ranging from <strong>the</strong> biology<br />

and ecology <strong>of</strong> key species and ecosystems, to<br />

<strong>the</strong> impacts <strong>of</strong> exploitation and resource management<br />

approaches. Naturally, this means that we spend a great<br />

deal <strong>of</strong> time in <strong>the</strong> water actively studying and passively<br />

observing <strong>the</strong> wonderful underwater world <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks<br />

& Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />

Our staff have been involved in marine research all<br />

over <strong>the</strong> world, but <strong>the</strong>re is a definite consensus among<br />

us that <strong>the</strong>re is nowhere quite like this place. So, after <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>Islands</strong> were pummelled by Hurricanes Irma and Maria<br />

this year, we feared that many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> reefs might have<br />

experienced catastrophic damage. With <strong>the</strong> help <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

East Bay Resort and Split Finger Ltd. on South Caicos we<br />

set out to assess <strong>the</strong> impacts. Thankfully, most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

sites that we visited were still in very good condition.<br />

Some extensive damage was observed on shallow reefs<br />

down to depths <strong>of</strong> around four metres, but below this it<br />

was more or less business as usual. Some coral colonies<br />

had been broken or cracked by <strong>the</strong> wave action, but <strong>the</strong>y<br />

were still alive, and <strong>the</strong> fish populations were as vibrant<br />

as ever. Given <strong>the</strong> magnitude <strong>of</strong> Hurricane Irma in particular,<br />

and considering <strong>the</strong> destruction it caused on land,<br />

<strong>the</strong> reefs <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos appear to have had a very<br />

lucky escape.<br />

Looking to <strong>the</strong> future, it is to be hoped that <strong>the</strong> coral<br />

reefs <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> will continue to thrive.<br />

It will take some time for damaged areas to fully recover,<br />

but as long as we can minimise negative human impacts,<br />

recover <strong>the</strong>y will. Climate change, including ocean acidification,<br />

is a global problem that can only be tackled on a<br />

global scale, but <strong>the</strong>re is still a lot that we can do locally<br />

to help promote <strong>the</strong> health and vitality <strong>of</strong> our precious<br />

coral reefs. a<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 27


feature<br />


Opposite page: The eye <strong>of</strong> Hurricane Irma is clearly visible from <strong>the</strong><br />

International Space Station as it orbited over <strong>the</strong> Category 5 storm on<br />

September 5, <strong>2017</strong>.<br />

Above: In spite <strong>of</strong> incredible devastation, TCI’s resilient spirit showed<br />

up in smiles, compassion and care—hope in <strong>the</strong> face <strong>of</strong> tragedy.<br />



TCI Strong<br />

Facing <strong>the</strong> fury <strong>of</strong> Hurricanes Irma and Maria.<br />

By Ben Stubenberg<br />

For eyes reading <strong>the</strong>se words today or 100 years from now, know this: When Hurricanes Irma and Maria<br />

tore across <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> in September <strong>2017</strong>, <strong>the</strong> people <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se beautiful islands united as<br />

one. Well-<strong>of</strong>f or struggling, <strong>the</strong>y helped each o<strong>the</strong>r selflessly and without claim for credit. This was <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

moment, and <strong>the</strong>y stood tall and strong. This is <strong>the</strong>ir story.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 29

Tuesday evening, September 5, <strong>2017</strong>. Forty-eight<br />

hours away, and smart phones flicker with time-lapse<br />

images <strong>of</strong> a giant rotating mass <strong>of</strong> white careening<br />

towards TCI for a dead centre hit. Short, anxious text<br />

messages quicken with each screen update. “Surely, it will<br />

veer to <strong>the</strong> north and out to open sea,” goes <strong>the</strong> hopeful<br />

chatter among residents. “It always does. We’ll catch<br />

some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> storm, but it won’t be bad.” But <strong>the</strong> monster<br />

Category 5 hurricane stays on track and doesn’t turn<br />

north. Reality approaches and <strong>the</strong> gut tightens.<br />

Cars crowd back into building supply stores where<br />

folks snap up <strong>the</strong> last remaining sheets <strong>of</strong> plywood. They<br />

top <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> gas tank one more time before stopping by<br />

<strong>the</strong> supermarket to buy a few extra cases <strong>of</strong> water that<br />

are suddenly rationed to one per customer. Tarps, petrol<br />

containers and flashlight D batteries are long gone.<br />

Wednesday evening and twenty-four hours to go.<br />

Updates show <strong>the</strong> path has swerved a shade south. That<br />

means South Caicos, Salt Cay and Grand Turk will bear<br />

<strong>the</strong> brunt while blasting <strong>the</strong> south shore Providenciales<br />

communities <strong>of</strong> Long Bay, Discovery Bay, Five Cays and<br />

Chalk Sound. The sky turns to velvety cream as <strong>the</strong> wait<br />

begins. But it’s still calm, <strong>the</strong> way it’s supposed to be<br />

before <strong>the</strong> storm. No one wants to shutter in just yet.<br />

So in <strong>the</strong> pleasant wea<strong>the</strong>r, people ga<strong>the</strong>r at <strong>the</strong> bars<br />

still open or on a neighbour’s porch, like <strong>the</strong>y would<br />

for a relaxing evening after work. An easy camaraderie<br />

fills familiar haunts as glasses are raised and big smiles<br />

greet friends and strangers alike, all sharing a foreboding<br />

sense <strong>of</strong> anticipation.<br />

As much preparation as everyone has made, no one<br />

can really be sure if <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong> will hold. Or if <strong>the</strong> rain or<br />

a storm surge will bring a flood <strong>of</strong> mud into <strong>the</strong> living<br />

room. Or if life’s possessions will just blow away. The<br />

angst deepens as pictures pop up <strong>of</strong> Hurricane Irma’s<br />

trail <strong>of</strong> destruction in <strong>the</strong> Lesser Antilles and <strong>the</strong> Godzilla<br />

<strong>of</strong> storms, <strong>the</strong> strongest ever in <strong>the</strong> North Atlantic, shows<br />

no sign <strong>of</strong> weakening for us. But nobody gives in to fear.<br />

“See you on <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r side!” friends call out with some<br />

dark humour, as <strong>the</strong>y head back to what <strong>the</strong>y hope will<br />

still be home tomorrow.<br />

Thursday morning, twelve hours out. A big gust<br />

swooshes against <strong>the</strong> house and brings a sharp, audible<br />

creak to <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong>, as <strong>the</strong> windows clatter. The brain<br />

pumps out <strong>the</strong> first shot <strong>of</strong> dopamine that focuses <strong>the</strong><br />

mind when preparing for <strong>the</strong> worst. It’s really coming.<br />

The heart skips two beats. More hours pass, and <strong>the</strong> gusts<br />

slam harder and more <strong>of</strong>ten. Walls start shuddering while<br />

loosened gutters clang relentlessly against <strong>the</strong> eaves.<br />

At 10 PM, Irma unleashes <strong>the</strong> full measure <strong>of</strong> her fury,<br />

engulfing our little islands that barely protrude above a<br />

turquoise sea, now whipped into a madding frenzy.<br />

The Internet drops <strong>of</strong>f, phones go dead, lights flitter<br />

out. Flashlights are turned on and candles lit. Outside,<br />

sustained winds reach a hyper-dangerous record-breaking<br />

175 mph (280 kmh) with gusts reaching over 200<br />

mph (320 kmh), hurling sticks, branches and tile like bullets<br />

through <strong>the</strong> air. Trees bend, <strong>the</strong>n snap, <strong>the</strong>n uproot,<br />

tossed about as easily as chopsticks. The first ro<strong>of</strong>s start<br />

peeling back as Hurricane Irma bears down on every<br />

This satellite image shows Hurricane Irma on<br />

September 7, <strong>2017</strong>, with <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong><br />

dead in its sights.<br />

30 www.timespub.tc

home with all her power, howling and scratching like an<br />

angry animal trying to get in.<br />



Hurricane beginnings<br />

The journey starts in early August half a world away with<br />

ripples in <strong>the</strong> sky high above <strong>the</strong> highlands <strong>of</strong> Ethiopia,<br />

Sudan and <strong>the</strong> Nile Valley. Hot air rises from <strong>the</strong> sandy,<br />

rocky surface and drifts lazily west over <strong>the</strong> Sahara Desert<br />

before clashing with <strong>the</strong> cooler air from humid jungles<br />

<strong>of</strong> Central and West Africa. The unstable mass spills out<br />

over <strong>the</strong> Atlantic Ocean toward <strong>the</strong> Cape Verde <strong>Islands</strong>,<br />

<strong>the</strong> spawning zone for <strong>the</strong> most tempestuous <strong>of</strong> wea<strong>the</strong>r.<br />

As <strong>the</strong> wind flows over <strong>the</strong> warm ocean, <strong>the</strong> surface <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> water evaporates and triggers ano<strong>the</strong>r cycle <strong>of</strong> rising<br />

air. The air is cooled at <strong>the</strong> higher elevation, forming large<br />

cumulus clouds <strong>of</strong> water droplets that fall back to <strong>the</strong> surface,<br />

generating a circulation <strong>of</strong> energy. As happens when<br />

<strong>the</strong> sea is particularly warm, July through November, more<br />

water evaporates and creates ever-bigger clouds that can<br />

intensify into tropical depressions and <strong>the</strong>n storms. At<br />

this point <strong>the</strong>y are given a name from an alphabetical list,<br />

alternating male and female, drawn up by <strong>the</strong> National<br />

Hurricane Center in Miami, Florida. The ninth Atlantic<br />

storm <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>2017</strong> season gets <strong>the</strong> name Irma.<br />

Most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> time, <strong>the</strong>se storms dissipate well before<br />

<strong>the</strong>y reach <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ocean, but a few, like Irma,<br />

streng<strong>the</strong>n into hurricanes (more than 74 mph/1<strong>18</strong> kmh<br />

sustained winds). Since <strong>the</strong> storms develop in <strong>the</strong> middle<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ocean far from measuring devices, scientists lack<br />

precise data to determine when or exactly why any given<br />

storm will explode into a full blown hurricane or simply<br />

fizzle out. But satellites provide clear visuals showing <strong>the</strong><br />

beginnings <strong>of</strong> a counterclockwise spiral around an eye <strong>of</strong><br />

calmness, influenced by <strong>the</strong> Coriolis effect <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> earth’s<br />

rotation, as <strong>the</strong> hurricane churns across <strong>the</strong> vast Atlantic.<br />

Irma’s threat is not readily apparent at first, as<br />

it bumps up to a Category 3 and <strong>the</strong>n back down to a<br />

Category 2 while still in mid-ocean—bad, but manageable.<br />

But in late August, as she lurches towards <strong>the</strong><br />

Caribbean, Irma suddenly streng<strong>the</strong>ns into a massive<br />

Category 5 with sustained winds <strong>of</strong> more than 155 mph<br />

(248 kmh). The gyrating arms grow rapidly too and<br />

extend out 400 miles. She shows no mercy for <strong>the</strong> first<br />

tiny islands in her path, bringing death and devastation<br />

to Dominica, Barbuda, St. Martin and <strong>the</strong> Virgin <strong>Islands</strong><br />

before bumping up to skirt <strong>the</strong> north coast <strong>of</strong> Puerto Rico<br />

and Hispaniola. Next in her sights? The 40 islands and<br />

cays in <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn Lucayan archipelago that we call<br />

home—<strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />

From top: The sheer force <strong>of</strong> Hurricane Irma’s Category 5 winds is<br />

displayed across Providenciales. On Leeward Highway, a toppled cell<br />

tower destroyed <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong> a tire repair and sales shop.<br />

The force <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> wind spun this sunken boat completely around,<br />

smashing it into <strong>the</strong> dock at Harbour Club Marina.<br />

This aerial view <strong>of</strong> Chalk Sound shows a villa with its top floor “gone<br />

with <strong>the</strong> wind.” Residents suspect a series <strong>of</strong> tornados were spawned<br />

by <strong>the</strong> storm.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 31

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Providenciales<br />

Turks and Caicos <strong>Islands</strong><br />

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Tel 649-946-4514<br />

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Email hugh.oneill@hgoneillco.tc<br />

C<br />

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Hurricanes in history<br />

Well before <strong>the</strong> first Europeans set foot on <strong>the</strong>se islands,<br />

<strong>the</strong> native Taino and Lucayan Indians had learned to<br />

expect and adjust to <strong>the</strong> seasonal arrival <strong>of</strong> a “Jurakan”<br />

that evolved into our word for hurricane today. These<br />

fearsome winds, <strong>the</strong>y believed, derived from <strong>the</strong>ir deity<br />

Guabanex as part <strong>of</strong> a cosmic battle between good and<br />

evil. The Indians recognised <strong>the</strong> signs <strong>of</strong> an approaching<br />

storm days before, that allowed <strong>the</strong>m to prepare. Frigate<br />

birds flew inland away from <strong>the</strong> coast, while crickets,<br />

cicadas, toads and frogs disappeared, as if <strong>the</strong>y all had<br />

a foreboding sense <strong>of</strong> impending disaster. The Indians<br />

could even tell months before if <strong>the</strong> hurricane season was<br />

going to be particularly bad by a bountiful crop <strong>of</strong> avocados.<br />

When <strong>the</strong> first Spanish colonists arrived in <strong>the</strong> late<br />

1400s and early 1500s, <strong>the</strong>y too would experience <strong>the</strong><br />

devastating effects <strong>of</strong> hurricane-force winds and rains,<br />

more powerful than anything <strong>the</strong>y had seen in Europe. At<br />

first, according to Stuart B. Schwartz in his book Sea <strong>of</strong><br />

Storms, <strong>the</strong> Spanish dismissed warnings by <strong>the</strong> Indians,<br />

whom <strong>the</strong>y considered to be “unsophisticated” and “savage,”<br />

even when <strong>the</strong> natives proved to be right. Indeed,<br />

<strong>the</strong> Spanish considered such forecasting <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> future sacrilegious<br />

fortune telling. The onslaught <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se ferocious<br />

storms, <strong>the</strong>y believed, lay entirely in <strong>the</strong> realm <strong>of</strong> divine<br />

providence, and <strong>the</strong> havoc wreaked was punishment for<br />

man’s sins and moral failure. Only prayer, procession and<br />

repentance could mitigate <strong>the</strong>se pure acts <strong>of</strong> God.<br />

A notable exception to this fatalistic notion in <strong>the</strong> earliest<br />

days <strong>of</strong> Caribbean colonisation was, paradoxically,<br />

<strong>the</strong> intensely pious Christopher Columbus. On his fourth<br />

and final voyage to <strong>the</strong> West Indies in 1502, he warned<br />

<strong>the</strong> governor <strong>of</strong> Santo Domingo <strong>of</strong> an impending storm<br />

after noting sou<strong>the</strong>asterly swell <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> water, high cirrus<br />

clouds and a hazy atmosphere. A large fleet <strong>of</strong> 30 ships<br />

laden with gold extracted from <strong>the</strong> Taino Indians was<br />

about to leave <strong>the</strong> port for Spain, and Columbus urged<br />

<strong>the</strong> governor to keep <strong>the</strong> ships in <strong>the</strong> protected harbour<br />

until <strong>the</strong> storm passed. Already disdainful <strong>of</strong> Columbus,<br />

who had lost his star power after three previous Atlantic<br />

crossings that began with his Grand Turk landfall in 1492<br />

(<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> Fall <strong>2017</strong>), <strong>the</strong> governor sc<strong>of</strong>fed at<br />

<strong>the</strong> notion that storms could be predicted. Ship pilots and<br />

sailors readying <strong>the</strong> fleet in Santo Domingo expressed<br />

<strong>the</strong> same sentiment and sailed anyway, while Columbus<br />

found shelter in a bay.<br />

A powerful hurricane did hit two days later that took<br />

twenty <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> fleet’s ships straight to <strong>the</strong> bottom and dis-<br />

32 www.timespub.tc



abled nine more. Only one ship made it to Spain, and it<br />

happened to be <strong>the</strong> one with <strong>the</strong> gold specifically allotted<br />

to Columbus for his earlier services as “Admiral <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Seas.” The happenstance <strong>of</strong> only <strong>the</strong> ship with Columbus’s<br />

gold making it back to Spain, coupled with foretelling and<br />

prognostication, was not lost on his rivals who accused<br />

him <strong>of</strong> being in league with <strong>the</strong> devil.<br />

It would take decades, but <strong>the</strong> Spanish and o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

European colonists in <strong>the</strong> West Indies gradually recognised<br />

<strong>the</strong> cyclical pattern <strong>of</strong> hurricanes and began to<br />

value <strong>the</strong> observational and predictive skills <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> fast<br />

disappearing natives. That in turn led to greater acceptance<br />

<strong>of</strong> natural forces at work and that humans had<br />

some control over protecting <strong>the</strong>mselves. As <strong>the</strong> Age<br />

<strong>of</strong> Enlightenment took hold in <strong>the</strong> <strong>18</strong>th century, a better<br />

understanding <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se natural forces emerged that<br />

removed human action as <strong>the</strong> cause for <strong>the</strong>se disasters.<br />

But ra<strong>the</strong>r than one perspective replacing <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r, <strong>the</strong><br />

two co-existed, as Schwartz points out, woven toge<strong>the</strong>r<br />

in a belief that divine intercession could be called upon<br />

to lessen impending calamity, even if driven by natural<br />

forces. Indeed, through <strong>the</strong> centuries right up to today,<br />

people all over <strong>the</strong> West Indies pray to be spared from<br />

hurricanes and give thanks when an island escapes a<br />

storm or is spared from destruction.<br />

In a supreme twist <strong>of</strong> historical irony, blame for hurricanes<br />

has come full circle back to humankind being<br />

responsible for its own destructiveness by way <strong>of</strong> global<br />

warming. Instead <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hand <strong>of</strong> providence meting out<br />

punishment, however, <strong>the</strong> prevailing scientific view holds<br />

that humans are reaping what <strong>the</strong>y have sowed through<br />

reckless stewardship <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> planet.<br />


Springing into action<br />

After a ferocious and precarious night (when <strong>the</strong> worst <strong>of</strong><br />

hurricanes always seem to strike!), morning breaks with<br />

a swirling, chalk-grey sky. The winds begin to subside, as<br />

Irma passes by. People peer out from cracks in plywood<br />

sheets or push away sandbags to open <strong>the</strong> door through<br />

sloshing water and get <strong>the</strong> first glimpse <strong>of</strong> nature’s<br />

wrath. Once majestically high coconut trees lie twisted<br />

and broken. Planks <strong>of</strong> wood and ro<strong>of</strong> shingles cover <strong>the</strong><br />

hard-packed sand and limestone rocks, resembling huge<br />

discarded checkerboards. Downed street lights and telephone<br />

poles sprawl across <strong>the</strong> highway with coiled lines<br />

and cables draped over <strong>the</strong> asphalt like black spaghetti.<br />

But it’s <strong>the</strong> brush stripped <strong>of</strong> all leaves along <strong>the</strong> roads<br />

that unexpectedly grabs our attention. For <strong>the</strong> first time<br />

in memory, residents driving along Leeward Highway can<br />

From top: Although <strong>the</strong> palms were drooping on Grace Bay Beach just<br />

after Hurricane Irma, it was soon back to pristine.<br />

The Enid Capron Primary School in Five Cays, although hard-hit,<br />

served as a shelter for over two weeks.<br />

Piles <strong>of</strong> debris littered <strong>the</strong> landscape around <strong>the</strong> fountain in front <strong>of</strong><br />

Baci Restaurant in Turtle Cove.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 33

The day after<br />

The morning <strong>of</strong> September 8, <strong>2017</strong>, <strong>the</strong> day after<br />

Category 5 Hurricane Irma struck <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />

<strong>Islands</strong>, is among <strong>the</strong> bleakest days in <strong>the</strong> country’s<br />

history. Each island experienced extensive damage.<br />

There was no electricity, no phone or Internet service<br />

and no running water. Toppled utility poles and trees,<br />

flooding and debris made most roads impassible. All<br />

<strong>the</strong> airports were closed, government and many private<br />

boats were on dry dock and much <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> population<br />

had damage to <strong>the</strong>ir property, business and/or vehicle.<br />

Where to begin?<br />

I recently spoke to TCI Commissioner <strong>of</strong> Police<br />

James Smith, who played a pivotal and visible role in<br />

getting <strong>the</strong> country back on its feet in <strong>the</strong> days following<br />

<strong>the</strong> storm. Commissioner Smith has always believed<br />

that leadership involves personal responsibility and<br />

being on <strong>the</strong> “front line.” Prior to <strong>the</strong> hurricanes, this<br />

“man on <strong>the</strong> ground” was a common sight driving his<br />

patrol car through <strong>the</strong> local communities, talking to<br />

<strong>the</strong> people. This became <strong>the</strong> first step in bringing <strong>the</strong><br />

situation under control. “We had to get out into <strong>the</strong> settlements<br />

to see <strong>the</strong> extent <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> devastation, making<br />

sure <strong>the</strong>re was no loss <strong>of</strong> life or medical problems. We<br />

used patrol cars, Department <strong>of</strong> Disaster Management<br />

The force <strong>of</strong> Hurricane Irma’s winds is apparent in <strong>the</strong> case<br />

<strong>of</strong> this overturned truck outside <strong>of</strong> Grant’s Gas Station in<br />

downtown Providenciales.<br />

& Emergencies (DDME) vehicles, basically anything that<br />

moved to see how everyone had fared.”<br />

The next step was to find a way to communicate to<br />

residents and concerned people <strong>of</strong>f-island that, miraculously,<br />

no one had died and <strong>the</strong>re were no serious<br />

casualties. This was important to squelch <strong>the</strong> traditional<br />

“coconut telegraph,” which loses accuracy and context<br />

as information is passed along person to person.<br />

A second major concern was getting to hardest-hit<br />

Grand Turk, South Caicos and Salt Cay, both to see<br />

how <strong>the</strong>y fared and to provide help. Because <strong>the</strong>re was<br />

no communication and no way to reach <strong>the</strong>se islands<br />

right after <strong>the</strong> storm, <strong>the</strong>ir isolation could have bred <strong>the</strong><br />

thought that “Nobody cares,” which was far from <strong>the</strong><br />

truth.<br />

As government, DDME and aid <strong>of</strong>ficials came<br />

toge<strong>the</strong>r, Commissioner Smith turned to ties made<br />

during his previous posting in <strong>the</strong> Cayman <strong>Islands</strong>. That<br />

country’s chief engineer and chief pilot were former<br />

comrades, and immediately started <strong>the</strong> two-day trip to<br />

Providenciales (via Cuba) in <strong>the</strong> Cayman <strong>Islands</strong> police<br />

helicopter. As soon as it arrived, <strong>the</strong>y flew to Grand<br />

Turk with supplies and a technologist to get communication<br />

reinstated. The commissioner recalls, “We met<br />

<strong>the</strong> deputy governor, who was manning <strong>the</strong> emergency<br />

centre, along with <strong>the</strong> attorney general and o<strong>the</strong>r <strong>of</strong>ficials.<br />

They were overjoyed to see us! Every building on<br />

Grand Turk was damaged, and much <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> government<br />

infrastructure demolished.” With police boats stuck on<br />

land, <strong>the</strong> first dispatches <strong>of</strong> food and water to Grand<br />

Turk were via private boats. The police helicopter was<br />

also <strong>the</strong> first to check on and assist <strong>the</strong> few families<br />

who elected to stay on Salt Cay.<br />

A functioning National Emergency Centre was<br />

created in Providenciales at <strong>the</strong> Digicel <strong>of</strong>fice next to<br />

Graceway IGA. Here <strong>the</strong>re were generator-powered electricity,<br />

communications and space for daily briefings.<br />

As soon as some semblance <strong>of</strong> communication services<br />

was restored, Commissioner Smith realized <strong>the</strong> importance<br />

<strong>of</strong> providing <strong>the</strong> public with factual updates and<br />

reassurance. Using his smart phone (“a very powerful<br />

instrument”), he filmed a series <strong>of</strong> three videologues<br />

that were disseminated via Facebook, <strong>the</strong> police website,<br />

and o<strong>the</strong>r social media outlets. Their message?<br />

Everyone is safe. There is no shortage <strong>of</strong> food, water or<br />

petrol, so don’t panic. Here is where you can get food<br />

and supplies. Everything is going to be OK.<br />

The second <strong>of</strong> Smith’s messages was filmed from<br />

one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> shelters, with <strong>the</strong> burly commissioner holding<br />

10 month old Teshaun in his arms. It netted at least<br />

30,000 hits.<br />

As <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> slowly recover, Commissioner Smith<br />

reports that <strong>the</strong> crime rate remains remarkably low.<br />

34 www.timespub.tc

“Although we had some minor looting just after <strong>the</strong><br />

storm, it was nowhere near <strong>the</strong> criminality o<strong>the</strong>r countries<br />

experienced. And in spite <strong>of</strong> many compromised<br />

buildings and limited street lights, we’re not seeing a<br />

lot <strong>of</strong> crime post-Irma.”<br />

Looking towards <strong>the</strong> future, Commissioner Smith<br />

agrees with o<strong>the</strong>r government <strong>of</strong>ficials that a major<br />

improvement must be made in preparation <strong>of</strong> hurricane<br />

shelters and communications. He says, “The shelters<br />

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Assisting domestic and international clients for 35 years<br />

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The collapse <strong>of</strong> part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong> at <strong>the</strong> venerable Faith Tabernacle<br />

Church in downtown Providenciales has become an iconic symbol<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> storms.<br />

need to be fit for purpose and designed for potential<br />

long-term use. We need to invest in <strong>the</strong>se now.” He also<br />

suggests <strong>the</strong>re be a better way to disseminate information<br />

and organize aid distribution and coordination,<br />

with a clear system <strong>of</strong> command and control.<br />

Yet, miming o<strong>the</strong>rs’ impressions, Commissioner<br />

Smith remains in awe <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> huge coming-toge<strong>the</strong>r <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> private sector, churches, charities and <strong>the</strong> general<br />

public to help each o<strong>the</strong>r. He agrees that it was a major<br />

reason for TCI’s ability to welcome visitors back within<br />

two months <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> storm. This is part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCIStrong<br />

phenomenon. “The hurricane survivors have banded<br />

toge<strong>the</strong>r with pride. We’ve survived!” a<br />

By Kathy Borsuk<br />

Photos By Jack Williams<br />

Food for Thought is a new charity set up to provide<br />

daily breakfast to government school students –<br />

starting with <strong>the</strong> primary schools in North Caicos,<br />

Middle Caicos, South Caicos and Salt Cay.<br />

We estimate that just $200 will allow us to provide<br />

breakfast to one child for a whole school year.<br />

If you would like to donate or learn more please<br />

email foodforthoughttci@gmail.com<br />

or visit our website foodforthoughttci.com<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 35

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clearly and cleanly see <strong>the</strong> little neighbourhoods <strong>of</strong> clapboard<br />

houses nestled along its sides. Everyone knew <strong>the</strong>y<br />

were <strong>the</strong>re, somewhere, but what thick vegetation once<br />

made invisible had come into plain view. And that stark<br />

ocular proximity brings <strong>the</strong> ongoing plight <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir occupants<br />

into sharp, unavoidable focus.<br />

For those who got through relatively unsca<strong>the</strong>d, <strong>the</strong>re<br />

is no time to dwell on minor losses when more urgent<br />

needs beckon. The time for action has come. Government<br />

<strong>of</strong>ficials, businesses, charity groups and individuals all<br />

get moving.<br />

Well in advance <strong>of</strong> Hurricanes Irma and Maria, <strong>the</strong><br />

Department <strong>of</strong> Disaster Management and Emergencies<br />

(DDME) had begun preparations by converting into<br />

shelters 12 schools and churches throughout TCI, as<br />

well as <strong>the</strong> Gustavus Lightbourne Sports Centre on<br />

Providenciales. DDME assigned trained shelter managers<br />

to each location and provided supplies <strong>of</strong> food and water.<br />

Through electronic messaging and social media, as well<br />

as more traditional means, <strong>the</strong> DDME managed to reach<br />

all 40,000 people living in TCI. DDME Director Dr. Virginia<br />

Clerveaux explained, “While we reached a lot <strong>of</strong> people<br />

electronically, we also employed loudspeakers from vehicles,<br />

postings, handouts and just showing up at popular<br />

island meeting spots to provide warning updates and<br />

preparation tips.” Most people remained in <strong>the</strong>ir homes,<br />

but some 1,500 people moved to one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> government<br />

designated shelters. Nobody got left behind.<br />

Also way out ahead <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> storm were <strong>the</strong> resorts,<br />

<strong>the</strong> “rocks” <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> country’s all-important tourism industry.<br />

Knowing that many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir staff might be exposed<br />

to hurricane danger, properties such as Windsong, The<br />

Alexandra, Grace Bay Club, West Bay Club, Seven Stars,<br />

The Shore Club, The Palms, Gansevoort and Villa del Mar,<br />

among many o<strong>the</strong>rs, made <strong>the</strong>ir hotel rooms and condominiums<br />

available to employees and <strong>the</strong>ir families. Most<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> managers even hunkered down with both staff and<br />

<strong>the</strong> guests who chose to stay through <strong>the</strong> storm. (Most<br />

resorts evacuated guests well ahead <strong>of</strong> time.) After <strong>the</strong><br />

hurricane when it became apparent that some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

staff homes had been severely damaged, resorts did not<br />

waiver in keeping employees sheltered at <strong>the</strong> resort or<br />

o<strong>the</strong>r places until <strong>the</strong>ir abodes were repaired. Grace Bay<br />

Club, for example, secured commercial space for displaced<br />

employees to live, while The Shore Club rented out<br />

<strong>the</strong> dining hall at St. Monica Anglican Church (and made<br />

The Shore Club Ballroom available for Sunday services).<br />

Just about everyone in <strong>the</strong> food business got involved<br />

immediately. Supermarkets such as Graceway IGA (which<br />

36 www.timespub.tc

Brew ad May <strong>2017</strong>_Layout 1 5/11/17 10:51 AM Page 1<br />

had kept its generators running throughout <strong>the</strong> storm),<br />

restaurants including Retreat, Bay Bistro, Big Al’s Island<br />

Grille, Le Bouchon and Rickie’s Flamingo Cafe, and private<br />

chefs like Josh Carlton prepared thousands <strong>of</strong> hot<br />

meals to give away on <strong>the</strong> spot or bring to anyone in<br />

need. Grace Bay Car Rentals provided vehicles and drivers<br />

from its staff to deliver many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se meals to <strong>the</strong><br />

hard-hit settlements, <strong>of</strong>ten using 4X4 SUVs to reach <strong>the</strong><br />

more difficult areas. “Food for Thought,” which has long<br />

operated a renowned breakfast program for TCI schools,<br />

also played a critical role in getting food to <strong>the</strong> needy.<br />

Meanwhile, dozens <strong>of</strong> boat operators and captains,<br />

including Delphine Hartshorn, Bruce Barron (Panoply), and<br />

Valdez Thomas (Sea Spice), quickly organised transportation<br />

<strong>of</strong> food and supplies to North and Middle Caicos,<br />

South Caicos and Grand Turk, thus providing a critical link<br />

when none o<strong>the</strong>r existed. Hurricane debris in <strong>the</strong> milky<br />

ocean water, particularly near Grand Turk, put <strong>the</strong> boats<br />

at risk, but <strong>the</strong> captains and crews went anyway.<br />

TC Crystal Water (<strong>of</strong> which Turks Head Brewery is a<br />

part) turned <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> coin-operated machines at <strong>the</strong>ir South<br />

Dock Road facility so that anyone could fill up as many<br />

jugs <strong>of</strong> water as <strong>the</strong>y needed for free. When <strong>the</strong> Caicos<br />

Conch Farm learned that <strong>the</strong>y would lose 500 lbs (227 kg)<br />

<strong>of</strong> red snapper and grouper after <strong>the</strong> generator crashed,<br />

<strong>the</strong>y contacted TC Crystal Water and proposed harvesting<br />

<strong>the</strong> fish for a giant fish fry in <strong>the</strong> TC Crystal Water parking<br />

lot. “Let’s do it,” came <strong>the</strong> reply. So <strong>the</strong>y set up grills and<br />

gave away an outstanding fried fish meal to anyone who<br />

wanted some.<br />

Hundreds <strong>of</strong> people initiated <strong>the</strong>ir own personal<br />

assistance programs to aid friends and neighbours, as<br />

well as those hurting <strong>the</strong> most. Some 20 members <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> venerable Fish Fryer’s Club ga<strong>the</strong>red at <strong>the</strong> house<br />

<strong>of</strong> photographer Penrhyn Brooks and worked 11 hours<br />

straight to clear debris from his yard (breaking, <strong>of</strong> course,<br />

for a fry fish BBQ). This informal social group <strong>of</strong> men<br />

and women from all over TCI has been getting toge<strong>the</strong>r<br />

weekly for over 10 years, <strong>of</strong>ten raising money for donations<br />

to schools and o<strong>the</strong>r causes. So, when one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

group needed help, everyone showed up in force.<br />

Social media groups wasted no time identifying needs<br />

and connecting people who could help. One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se was<br />

<strong>the</strong> WhatsApp group called “We Care Turks & Caicos.” It<br />

was set up by a group <strong>of</strong> friends and expanded organically<br />

to o<strong>the</strong>r friends until it reached 30+ committed<br />

individuals drawn from every part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> community—<br />

including sports stars, lawyers, a high school student and<br />

even ex-pats living in <strong>the</strong> US and Canada. The network<br />

Turk’s Head Brewery<br />

Brewery Tours Monday-Friday<br />

11AM, 1PM, 3PM<br />

$15/pp<br />

Enjoy a complimentary selection <strong>of</strong> local craft beer<br />

after your tour!<br />

Email tours@turksheadbeer.com<br />

Call 649.941.3637 x 1005 to book<br />

www.turksheadbrewery.tc<br />

52 Universal Dr.<br />

Providenciales, TCI<br />


<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 37

North and Middle Caicos<br />

The full brunt <strong>of</strong> Hurricanes Irma and Maria missed<br />

North and Middle Caicos, causing less damage than<br />

experienced on <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r islands. Still, <strong>the</strong> tiny populations<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se stunning gems (1,600 people in<br />

North Caicos and just <strong>18</strong>0 in Middle Caicos) took no<br />

chances and prepared well. Because <strong>the</strong>se islands are<br />

more rural and cut <strong>of</strong>f from <strong>the</strong> economic advantages<br />

in Providenciales, residents have developed a strong<br />

culture <strong>of</strong> self reliance. Indeed, for more than 200<br />

years, <strong>the</strong>y sustained <strong>the</strong>mselves quite independently<br />

by farming small plots <strong>of</strong> land and harvesting from <strong>the</strong><br />

sea conch, lobster and fish. Woven toge<strong>the</strong>r over time,<br />

<strong>the</strong>se communities naturally band toge<strong>the</strong>r when disaster<br />

strikes.<br />

A few days before Irma hit, government <strong>of</strong>ficials in<br />

Middle Caicos called for a meeting <strong>of</strong> all residents at<br />

<strong>the</strong> Community Centre in Conch Bar and asked everyone<br />

to evacuate, as <strong>the</strong>re would be no services. But<br />

<strong>the</strong> people <strong>the</strong>re refused, citing need to watch over<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir houses and each o<strong>the</strong>r. They worried too that if<br />

<strong>the</strong> causeway between North and Middle Caicos was<br />

wiped out, as happened after Hurricane Ike in 2008,<br />

<strong>the</strong>y might not be able to get back for weeks. Instead<br />

<strong>of</strong> leaving, almost everyone in Conch Bar ga<strong>the</strong>red at<br />

<strong>the</strong> Mount Moriah Baptist Church, bringing with <strong>the</strong>m<br />

plenty <strong>of</strong> food and water to share. In <strong>the</strong> settlements<br />

<strong>of</strong> Bambarra and Lorimers, residents also thoroughly<br />

prepared and moved into <strong>the</strong> strongest house to ride it<br />

out.<br />

Mike Terry <strong>of</strong> Ephraim Construction and residents dumped rocks to<br />

shore up <strong>the</strong> causeway between North and Middle Caicos.<br />

In North Caicos, people mostly stayed in <strong>the</strong>ir own<br />

houses or with friends and neighbours if <strong>the</strong>y believed<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir own house might not stay intact. A few went to<br />

churches for shelter. As soon as <strong>the</strong> winds subsided,<br />

<strong>the</strong> physically stronger members <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se islands went<br />

out to clear <strong>the</strong> main two lane road that runs 32 miles<br />

between North and Middle Caicos and connects <strong>the</strong> settlements.<br />

Anyone with a car that could get through mud<br />

on <strong>the</strong> unpaved side roads and at least two feet <strong>of</strong> water<br />

drove from house to house to see if anyone was hurt<br />

and needed immediate aid. Between <strong>the</strong> hurricanes, residents<br />

worked with Mike Terry <strong>of</strong> Ephraim Construction<br />

to load up rocks from a quarry to shore up <strong>the</strong> causeway<br />

in case it couldn’t take a second hit from Hurricane<br />

Maria. In so doing, <strong>the</strong>se tiny TCI communities literally<br />

and symbolically stayed bound to one ano<strong>the</strong>r, reinforcing<br />

recognition <strong>of</strong> being one people. a<br />

By Ben Stubenberg<br />


38 www.timespub.tc


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raised hundreds <strong>of</strong> dollars every day to pay for food,<br />

personal hygiene supplies and building materials, and<br />

tapped members to bring <strong>the</strong>m to <strong>the</strong> most vulnerable.<br />

The network created a bond between <strong>the</strong> members who<br />

surprised <strong>the</strong>mselves at being so effective in working<br />

toge<strong>the</strong>r. This WhatsApp group is not going away.<br />

Aid came from unexpected sources too. Two days<br />

before Irma hit, Haitians called friends in TCI to <strong>of</strong>fer<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir homes as shelter should <strong>the</strong>y want to evacuate to<br />

Haiti. Haitian-based charities, including Mission <strong>of</strong> Hope,<br />

had stockpiled supplies in case Irma hit Haiti. But when<br />

<strong>the</strong> hurricane missed <strong>the</strong>m, Haitians loaded up tarps,<br />

water, purification bottles, food and o<strong>the</strong>r survival items<br />

meant for <strong>the</strong>m onto <strong>the</strong> ship True North heading to<br />

Providenciales. In this way, people in Haiti, <strong>of</strong>ten <strong>the</strong><br />

recipients <strong>of</strong> aid in times <strong>of</strong> tragedy, showed <strong>the</strong>y were<br />

quick to give back when nearby countries suffered <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

own calamity. Local TCI charities Salvation Army, Convoy<br />

<strong>of</strong> Hope and Harvest Bible Church met <strong>the</strong> True North<br />

at <strong>the</strong> dock and distributed <strong>the</strong> goods throughout TCI.<br />

In late October, <strong>the</strong> government <strong>of</strong> Haiti added to <strong>the</strong><br />

private donation by giving TCI hundreds <strong>of</strong> generators,<br />

plywood sheets, tarps and o<strong>the</strong>r housing materials to<br />

help with <strong>the</strong> aftermath and rebuilding.<br />

WhatsApp group “We Care Turks & Caicos” helped coordinate <strong>the</strong> provision<br />

and delivery <strong>of</strong> hundreds <strong>of</strong> meals after <strong>the</strong> hurricane.<br />


<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 39

#TCIStrong<br />

Irma. Maria. I think it’s safe to say that girls born<br />

in <strong>the</strong> Caribbean will not be given <strong>the</strong>se names any<br />

time soon. Hurricane Irma was so powerful that <strong>the</strong><br />

National Hurricane Center is considering designating it<br />

a Category 6! Before setting her sights on <strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />

Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, Irma destroyed Barbuda, St. Martin, St.<br />

Barths, Anguilla, and <strong>the</strong> US and British Virgin <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />

Two weeks later, Hurricane Maria decided to pay a<br />

visit. Maria was a Category 5 and many had no power<br />

or communications and were dealing with damage<br />

from Irma. There was still debris everywhere. This<br />

could behave like missiles and cause fur<strong>the</strong>r devastation.<br />

Thankfully Maria only produced mostly rain and<br />

no fur<strong>the</strong>r damage.<br />

Everyone was thankful to be alive! Everyone helped<br />

everyone clean up, rebuild and upgrade. And although<br />

<strong>the</strong> media sensationalized <strong>the</strong> devastation, many areas<br />

got back to business quickly.<br />

On my first visit back to inspect our vacation home<br />

(just after Maria), I dreaded what I would find. I drove<br />

from <strong>the</strong> airport to Leeward heartbroken. Every ro<strong>of</strong><br />

had damage, landscape was brown and shredded. But<br />

every ro<strong>of</strong> was already topped with ei<strong>the</strong>r a tarp, peel<br />

and seal, or a person hammering. And when I got to<br />

<strong>the</strong> hub <strong>of</strong> Grace Bay Beach where <strong>the</strong> resorts are, I<br />

found it clean and nearly pristine! I later discovered<br />

that everyone had stepped it up to pitch in. Some resort<br />

employees lost entire ro<strong>of</strong>s, yet worked tirelessly to get<br />

resorts (and <strong>the</strong>ir jobs) up and running.<br />

By <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> week, hibiscus were blooming.<br />

Everyone was tired, but grateful and smiling. By my<br />

next trip <strong>the</strong> first week <strong>of</strong> December, <strong>the</strong> vacation<br />

hub areas <strong>of</strong> Grace Bay, Leeward and The Bight, were<br />

cleaner and fresher than ever. Nearly all <strong>of</strong> my favorite<br />

restaurants are back in business, including Bugaloo’s<br />

and Da Conch Shack. And, <strong>of</strong> course, <strong>the</strong> stunning<br />

turquoise sea and sugar-sand beaches are incredibly<br />

alluring and unchanged.<br />

TCI is strong, but vacationers must remember that<br />

while no signs <strong>of</strong> hurricanes are to be seen in tourist<br />

areas, many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> local settlements were badly damaged,<br />

as were Grand Turk, South Caicos and Salt Cay.<br />

That’s where many workers go home to after work.<br />

Your visit helps <strong>the</strong> country to thrive. But consider<br />

vacationing with a heart—bring along an extra suitcase<br />

with goods to share or consider donating to one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

These Blue Hills before and after shots<br />

show <strong>the</strong> remarkable and quick recovery<br />

TCI has wrought in <strong>the</strong> popular tourist<br />

spots.<br />

funds raising money towards recovery.<br />

Keep on coming to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos, and encourage<br />

family and friends to make this <strong>the</strong>ir next vacation<br />

destination. Tourism is clearly TCI’s primary industry,<br />

and as resorts, restaurants, watersports operators,<br />

spas, car rentals, wedding planners, activities thrive,<br />

<strong>the</strong> benefits trickle throughout <strong>the</strong> economy.<br />

For more information, check out <strong>the</strong> following<br />

Facebook pages: The Salvation Army Turks & Caicos,<br />

1-649-431-6802; Turks & Caicos Red Cross, 1-649-<br />

946-5<strong>18</strong>2; Potcake Place K-9 Rescue, 1-649-231-1010;<br />

Hurricane Irma Relief Turks and Caicos (www.hirtac.<br />

org); Provo’s Children Home (www.pch.tc). Many<br />

resorts set up individual GoFundMe pages to help <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

employees recover. a<br />

Story & Photos By Ramona Settle<br />

40 www.timespub.tc

Seeing <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r side<br />

Many people unaffiliated with any aid group simply loaded<br />

up <strong>the</strong>ir cars with food, ice, water and o<strong>the</strong>r supplies and<br />

drove to <strong>the</strong> shelters or homes <strong>of</strong> housekeepers and gardeners<br />

<strong>the</strong>y had employed for years. For some living in<br />

more affluent areas <strong>of</strong> Providenciales, seeing up-close for<br />

<strong>the</strong> first time <strong>the</strong> difficult conditions under which <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

workers lived moved <strong>the</strong>m pr<strong>of</strong>oundly.<br />

For me, <strong>the</strong> young teens in <strong>the</strong> Enid Capron Primary<br />

School shelter in <strong>the</strong> settlement <strong>of</strong> Five Cays made a deep<br />

impression. Each time someone arrived with a delivery <strong>of</strong><br />

supplies, <strong>the</strong> youngsters promptly went to unload <strong>the</strong> car<br />

or truck with utmost courtesy and thankfulness. Despite<br />

two weeks <strong>of</strong> living on cots with one sheet and maybe<br />

a single change <strong>of</strong> clo<strong>the</strong>s, <strong>the</strong>y looked impressively<br />

clean and well-groomed. The shelter manager, Yanique<br />

Henriquez, ran a tight, orderly ship, and <strong>the</strong> youngsters<br />

and adults responded by respecting <strong>the</strong> rules and making<br />

<strong>the</strong> best <strong>of</strong> a difficult situation.<br />

On <strong>the</strong> last day before <strong>the</strong> shelter closed so <strong>the</strong><br />

school could reopen, two <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> teens, a boy and a girl,<br />

took me aside. They looked me straight in <strong>the</strong> eye with<br />

steady confidence and calmly explained <strong>the</strong>ir situation.<br />

“The shelter now has enough food and water,” <strong>the</strong> boy<br />

began. “And we are very thankful for what everyone has<br />

done to make sure we were OK. But what we don’t have<br />

is a home. We are from Five Cays, but <strong>the</strong>re is no place to<br />

go back to.” “Are you bro<strong>the</strong>r and sister?” I asked. “Well,<br />

Kathryn<br />

Brown<br />

Director ERA Turks and Caicos Real Estate<br />

Kathryn's experience in real estate<br />

began in 1997 with ERA in Cayman<br />

<strong>Islands</strong>. In 2000 Kathryn moved to<br />

Turks and Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> to take<br />

up <strong>the</strong> position <strong>of</strong> Managing<br />

Director <strong>of</strong> ERA Turks and Caicos<br />

Real Estate (formerly ERA Coralie<br />

Properties Ltd.). Kathryn was a<br />

founding member <strong>of</strong> Turks and<br />

Caicos Real Estate Association (TCREA) that implemented <strong>the</strong><br />

MLS for Turks and Caicos. She was instrumental in drafting <strong>the</strong><br />

Ethics and Rules and Regulations for <strong>the</strong> Association. She also<br />

headed up a certified training program for members <strong>of</strong> TCREA.<br />

As well as sitting on many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Association committees, she was<br />

Vice President for 3 years, followed by 5 years as President.<br />

Kathryn has recently been awarded Certificate <strong>of</strong> Distinction, Life<br />

Time Membership to TCREA. Now C.E.O. <strong>of</strong> ERA, she still loves<br />

being involved with listings and sales and has many repeat clients<br />

and customers, most <strong>of</strong> whom have become friends. Kathryn has<br />

been Top Selling Broker for ERA for 15 years. Real estate is her<br />

passion; she consistently provides service with integrity and vision<br />

ensuring <strong>the</strong> best results for both customers and clients.<br />

ERA Turks and Caicos Real Estate<br />

not before <strong>the</strong> hurricane, but we are bro<strong>the</strong>r and sister<br />

Juan Martinez Fall 15 sixth_Layout Tel: 649 231-2329 1 5/27/16 11:58 AM Page 1<br />

now, as we’ve been helping each o<strong>the</strong>r get through this.” Email: krbrown@era.tc<br />

“Where is your mo<strong>the</strong>r or fa<strong>the</strong>r?” I asked. “Are <strong>the</strong>y Web: www.eraturksandcaicos.com<br />

here too?” “Yes, let me get my mo<strong>the</strong>r,” <strong>the</strong> girl said and<br />

brought her over.<br />

Both began speaking Haitian Creole to <strong>the</strong> mo<strong>the</strong>r,<br />

telling her about <strong>the</strong>ir appeal to me. This is not an unusual<br />

PHONE:<br />

situation in Turks & Caicos, as many children have one<br />

2 4 1 . 3 2 9 7<br />

2 4 4 . 9 0 9 0<br />

foot in <strong>the</strong> Haitian world and one in <strong>the</strong> TCI community.<br />

3 4 4 . 9 4 0 3<br />

As is sometimes <strong>the</strong> case in North America and <strong>the</strong> UK,<br />

2 4 4 . 6 1 9 1<br />


young teens will translate for a parent who cannot speak<br />


English and end up negotiating for <strong>the</strong> family medical<br />

services, leases, utility hookups, work expectations and<br />

school enrollment. No longer adolescents, <strong>the</strong>se two<br />

teens, ages 16 and 14, dealing daily with <strong>the</strong> challenges<br />

and uncertainties on <strong>the</strong> fringes <strong>of</strong> society, had matured<br />

well beyond <strong>the</strong>ir years. In ano<strong>the</strong>r time or place, <strong>the</strong>y<br />

might be anticipating an upcoming school dance or making<br />

plans to watch a football game. Instead, <strong>the</strong>y just<br />

wanted to find some place to live with walls, a ro<strong>of</strong> that<br />

didn’t leak too much and a couple <strong>of</strong> beds or cots, even if<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 41


This drone shot shows <strong>the</strong> flooding experienced in Five Cays after Hurricane Irma, although <strong>the</strong> predicted massive storm surge never materialized.<br />

temporary. Nothing else mattered. And so to anyone who<br />

would listen, <strong>the</strong>y made <strong>the</strong>ir case with patient, urgent<br />

eloquence.<br />

The teens and <strong>the</strong>ir families did get a short reprieve<br />

for a few more days at <strong>the</strong> Gustarvus Lightbourne Sports<br />

Centre before <strong>the</strong>y and o<strong>the</strong>rs found tiny, one-room<br />

houses in <strong>the</strong>ir Five Cays settlement. I visited one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

places shared by two 15 year-old girls and three adult<br />

women who had been in <strong>the</strong> Enid Capron shelter. They<br />

had no running water or electricity. When night came,<br />

<strong>the</strong>y lit candles. The two girls slept in <strong>the</strong> one cot, while<br />

<strong>the</strong> three women slept on a sheet <strong>of</strong> plywood over a<br />

cement floor. Folded up clo<strong>the</strong>s served as pillows. With<br />

nothing to cook with, <strong>the</strong>y bought prepared food from<br />

local supermarkets, which <strong>the</strong>y shared with each o<strong>the</strong>r.<br />

Whatever jobs <strong>the</strong>y had were suspended, so <strong>the</strong>y had no<br />

income. Yet nobody complained, and nobody gave up.<br />

The sobering reality <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir predicament, fellow residents<br />

who live less than a 15-minute drive from anywhere<br />

on Providenciales, tugs hard at <strong>the</strong> heart and doesn’t let<br />

go.<br />

Local lawyer and photographer Dominick Rolle, one<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> members <strong>of</strong> “We Care Turks & Caicos” WhatsApp<br />

group, noted that just about everyone without a generator<br />

basically camped out for at least two weeks, sometimes<br />

more than six weeks, waiting for power to come on. “It<br />

was challenging and <strong>of</strong>ten uncomfortable for sure,” Mr.<br />

Rolle said. “But it also created a closer sense <strong>of</strong> community<br />

that has been sustained though weekly cookouts<br />

where everyone shares what <strong>the</strong>y have.”<br />

At <strong>the</strong> same time, Mr. Rolle emphasised, “That experience<br />

<strong>of</strong> temporary deprivation opened our eyes to a<br />

hidden segment <strong>of</strong> society that lives like this every day. It<br />

humbles you. We cannot forget that <strong>the</strong>y are part <strong>of</strong> TCI<br />

society too—<strong>the</strong>ir kids go to school with your kids or play<br />

on <strong>the</strong> same sports teams. But when <strong>the</strong>y go home, <strong>the</strong>y<br />

may not have something as basic as a light, much less a<br />

refrigerator or stove.”<br />

Dr. Sam Slattery, founder <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Grace Bay Medical<br />

Centre, pointed out, “People employed by <strong>the</strong> stores,<br />

<strong>of</strong>fices and resorts <strong>of</strong> Grace Bay and all around Provo<br />

<strong>of</strong>ten walk a half mile in <strong>the</strong> mud to get to a paved road<br />

and <strong>the</strong>n take a taxi jitney to get to work. All day we<br />

expect <strong>the</strong>m to perform <strong>the</strong>ir jobs with cheerful efficiency.<br />

And <strong>the</strong>n at night, <strong>the</strong>y go back home to a very<br />

different world and deal with hardships <strong>the</strong> rest <strong>of</strong> us can<br />

scarcely imagine.”<br />

TCI gets back on its feet<br />

Hurricane Maria arrived a week later, quick on <strong>the</strong> heels<br />

42 www.timespub.tc


This photo <strong>of</strong> Grace Bay Beach was taken on September 29, <strong>2017</strong>, less than one month after Hurricane Irma. Both nature and <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> have<br />

a remarkable ability to bounce back.<br />

after slashing into Puerto Rico with deadly assault. TCI<br />

residents again prepared for <strong>the</strong> worst, but this time it<br />

was different. After Irma, everyone, imbued with confidence,<br />

knew <strong>the</strong>y could handle <strong>the</strong> next one, no matter<br />

how big. As it happened, Maria curved north away from<br />

TCI. It still rated a dangerous Category 3, but was nothing<br />

like Irma. The attitude was unified, “Let’s get this over<br />

with so we can clean up and rebuild.”<br />

Right after <strong>the</strong> hurricanes had passed, DDME and Red<br />

Cross teams <strong>of</strong> trained resident volunteers fanned out to<br />

assess <strong>the</strong> damage. Well over 100 British troops landed<br />

with large Chinook helicopters and C-130 transport aircraft<br />

with supplies to distribute. The UK aid organisation<br />

Department for International Development worked quietly<br />

in <strong>the</strong> background with DDME and local groups to get<br />

food and supplies in and move <strong>the</strong>m to where needed.<br />

The preparations, sheltering and post-hurricane aid<br />

by everyone paid <strong>of</strong>f, as TCI did not have a single fatality<br />

or injury attributable directly to <strong>the</strong> hurricanes. That<br />

“zero” statistic is even more impressive when one considers<br />

that TCI is not normally in <strong>the</strong> path <strong>of</strong> devastating<br />

hurricanes that have hit <strong>the</strong> Caribbean and Bahamas. It<br />

had been a full 9 years since Hurricanes Hanna and Ike<br />

struck in 2008 and 23 years from when Hurricane Kate hit<br />

in 1985. The last big hurricane before that was Donna in<br />

1960. Applying <strong>the</strong> lessons learned, <strong>the</strong> TCI government<br />

has already begun to prepare even better for <strong>the</strong> future,<br />

including tighter enforcement <strong>of</strong> building codes.<br />

The post-hurricane clean up was no less remarkable.<br />

With debris strewn about, gardening services large and<br />

small went straight to work contracting out at pre-hurricane<br />

prices. Many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> workers covered <strong>the</strong>mselves in<br />

hoodies or thick flannel shirts against <strong>the</strong> sharp thorns<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> brush, as well as <strong>the</strong> sudden onslaught <strong>of</strong> mosquitos<br />

that hatched in pools <strong>of</strong> water. The men worked all<br />

day in <strong>the</strong> hot sun, made excruciatingly more uncomfortable<br />

by high humidity. Sometimes <strong>the</strong>y used chainsaws<br />

to cut up <strong>the</strong> fallen brush, but mostly <strong>the</strong>y hacked away<br />

with machetes, counting on <strong>the</strong> job to earn some badly<br />

needed cash while delaying tending to <strong>the</strong> wreckage <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong>ir own homes.<br />

TCI’s Canadian-based electricity provider, FortisTCI,<br />

brought in 231 electrical line repair specialists and 65<br />

trucks from Canada and <strong>the</strong> US to supplement <strong>the</strong> local<br />

repair crews, putting <strong>the</strong> total TCI restoration workforce<br />

to well over 300. Local crews went to work as soon as<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 43

<strong>the</strong>y got <strong>the</strong> “All Clear,” while <strong>the</strong> first wave <strong>of</strong> foreign<br />

workers arrived within 48 hours. With so many poles,<br />

transformers and lines destroyed, restoration inevitably<br />

was uneven, especially since priority had to be given to<br />

hospitals, airports and water companies. While frustrating<br />

for many, particularly those with homes on <strong>the</strong> south<br />

shore <strong>of</strong> Providenciales as well as <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r islands, Fortis<br />

crews worked dawn to sun-down to bring <strong>the</strong> all-important<br />

power back. Fortis also hired local cooks to prepare<br />

800 hot meals and distributed <strong>the</strong>m at community centres.<br />

Provo water companies, too, worked to keep “city<br />

water” flowing to customers for at least a few hours a day<br />

just after <strong>the</strong> storm as <strong>the</strong>y located and fixed pipe leaks<br />

before re-pressurising <strong>the</strong> system.<br />

Amazingly, almost all resorts and rental villas were<br />

repaired and back in business by mid-November and<br />

accepting guests at <strong>the</strong> same high standards that have<br />

made Providenciales a sought-after luxury destination.<br />

Residents and business owners who suffered severe<br />

damage to <strong>the</strong>ir property tended to shrug <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> misfortune<br />

as part <strong>of</strong> living in an island paradise. They typically<br />

covered <strong>the</strong>ir financial and personal pain with jokes, but<br />

everyone felt <strong>the</strong> ache <strong>of</strong> losses that would take months, if<br />

not years, to recoup. Despite <strong>the</strong> hit, a festive mood prevailed.<br />

DJs such as DJ Dayoh and singers like Tess Charles<br />

partnered with cafés and bars to host fundraiser nights.<br />

(In fact, a half blown-<strong>of</strong>f ro<strong>of</strong> at Rickie’s Flamingo Cafe did<br />

not stop a big fundraiser <strong>the</strong>re.) Spirited crowds ready to<br />

party showed up to check on friends, swap stories and<br />

give food and clo<strong>the</strong>s. Just days after Irma hit, businesses<br />

and individuals brought all <strong>the</strong> donations <strong>the</strong>y acquired<br />

to Butterfield Square in Downtown Providenciales, set up<br />

tables and gave away items to those who needed <strong>the</strong>m.<br />

Local artists jumped in to raise relief money through<br />

wonderfully imaginative storm-related art. Jeweller Atelys<br />

sold several thousand dollars worth <strong>of</strong> her original handmade<br />

creations, all <strong>of</strong> which went to hurricane relief.<br />

Alizee Zimmermann ga<strong>the</strong>red broken ro<strong>of</strong> tiles, a potent<br />

symbol <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> wreckage, and painted <strong>the</strong>m with colourful,<br />

whimsical animals for sale to residents and visiting<br />

tourists. Painter Fay Ninon, founder <strong>of</strong> Oceanic Alchemy<br />

for marine life preservation, raised money by creating a<br />

line <strong>of</strong> clo<strong>the</strong>s and accessories with a “TCI Strong” <strong>the</strong>me<br />

and <strong>the</strong>n worked with <strong>the</strong> Edward Gartland Youth Centre<br />

to buy and distribute food in Grand Turk, Salt Cay and<br />

Providenciales.<br />

TCI stronger<br />

You never know how people are going to react in a real<br />

crisis, especially when almost no one living today in TCI<br />

can remember anything as severe as Hurricane Irma. But<br />

perseverance and kindness have always been an integral<br />

part <strong>of</strong> Turks & Caicos culture. Charitable events consistently<br />

draw hundreds <strong>of</strong> people from all over <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />

So it was no surprise that <strong>the</strong> quite diverse TCI community<br />

united in providing relief. In fact, for weeks after <strong>the</strong><br />

hurricanes, that’s all anyone talked about. Native people<br />

and ex-pats alike felt pride, as if <strong>the</strong>y had passed a kind<br />

<strong>of</strong> test. Folks came tog<strong>the</strong>r, and former animosities and<br />

grudges seemed to have been blown away with <strong>the</strong> winds.<br />

In ano<strong>the</strong>r place, things might have gone in a negative<br />

direction, with descent into avarice, feuding or<br />

despair. But that didn’t happen here. Instead, <strong>the</strong> best <strong>of</strong><br />

humanity emerged, and this precious episode in TCI history<br />

must be remembered and cherished and nurtured,<br />

for <strong>the</strong>re will surely be o<strong>the</strong>r challenges and trials down<br />

<strong>the</strong> road.<br />

Indeed, we are on that road now, with ano<strong>the</strong>r chance<br />

to draw on <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>’ proven character and fortitude by<br />

keeping <strong>the</strong> post-hurricane momentum <strong>of</strong> extraordinary<br />

goodwill going. We can start by not letting <strong>the</strong> less fortunate<br />

in our society once again disappear behind <strong>the</strong> thick<br />

brush as <strong>the</strong> leaves grow back. Teens shouldn’t have to<br />

hunt for a place to stay for <strong>the</strong>ir families and five women<br />

shouldn’t have to live in one room without running water<br />

or electricity. And let’s pause to recognise and respect<br />

<strong>the</strong> hardships <strong>of</strong> people who touch our everyday lives—<br />

people we depend on—and do all we can to lighten <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

burden. Our <strong>Islands</strong> are too small and our hearts are too<br />

big. The good people <strong>of</strong> TCI stood toge<strong>the</strong>r magnificently<br />

strong when <strong>the</strong> dark winds roared in, and <strong>the</strong>y can shine<br />

brighter still in <strong>the</strong> sunlight <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> aftermath. a<br />

Ben Stubenberg is a contributing writer to <strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>Islands</strong> with a passion for Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> history.<br />

An avid ocean man, he is <strong>the</strong> co-founder <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sports and<br />

adventure tour company Caicu Naniki and <strong>the</strong> annual<br />

Turks & Caicos “Race for <strong>the</strong> Conch” Eco-SeaSwim. Ben<br />

can be reached at ben@caicunaniki.com.<br />

For <strong>the</strong> latest updates, fascinating<br />

information on just about anything<br />

related to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>,<br />

and beautiful photos, go to<br />

VisitTCI.com<br />

44 www.timespub.tc

The nation’s capital<br />

Grand Turk, South Caicos and Salt Cay were in <strong>the</strong><br />

direct path <strong>of</strong> both Hurricanes Irma and Maria and suffered<br />

much damage. Relief operations kicked in almost<br />

immediately, with volunteers from <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r islands<br />

and a contingent <strong>of</strong> military from <strong>the</strong> UK, including <strong>the</strong><br />

HMS Ocean, which is <strong>the</strong> only aircraft carrier and largest<br />

operational warship in <strong>the</strong> Royal Navy.<br />

The UK also sent huge cargo planes <strong>of</strong> relief<br />

supplies. Blue Haven Marina frequenter mega-yacht<br />

Doro<strong>the</strong>a III and <strong>the</strong> Yacht Aid Global Team also were<br />

among <strong>the</strong> first to deliver clean water and supplies to<br />

Grand Turk. Military helicopters ferried provision on<br />

to South Caicos and Salt Cay. Highlighting <strong>the</strong> UK’s<br />

commitment to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>, over 120 military personnel<br />

were instrumental in assisting with post-hurricane<br />

security, re-opening <strong>the</strong> Providenciales airport and<br />

essential government buildings, clearing debris, repairing<br />

schools, and even helped get Radio Turks & Caicos<br />

running.<br />

By <strong>the</strong> two month post-hurricanes mark, Fortis TCI<br />

reported that electricity was restored to all customers<br />

throughout <strong>the</strong> TCI that can currently receive it. This<br />

included <strong>the</strong> extensive rebuilding <strong>of</strong> sections <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

transmission and distribution networks on Grand Turk<br />

and Salt Cay. This accomplishment set a new standard<br />

in <strong>the</strong> Caribbean for restoration from a hurricane.<br />

Although a number <strong>of</strong> TCI Government <strong>of</strong>fices<br />

on Grand Turk sustained significant damage, <strong>the</strong><br />

Immigration, Customs and Treasury Departments<br />

re-opened right after <strong>the</strong> storms, in spite <strong>of</strong> needing<br />

to operate for weeks on generator power. O<strong>the</strong>r key<br />

<strong>of</strong>fices were relocated as necessary.<br />

The Grand Turk Cruise Ship Centre re-opened in<br />

November. As early as one month after <strong>the</strong> storms,<br />

Seatrade Cruise News reported, “Work is full tilt at <strong>the</strong><br />

Grand Turk Cruise Center to restore <strong>the</strong> destination to<br />

receive ships in November. A senior Carnival <strong>of</strong>ficial<br />

said <strong>the</strong> cruise pier did not suffer any damage while <strong>the</strong><br />

cruise center facility suffered mostly cosmetic damages<br />

and loss <strong>of</strong> some landscaping. Carnival’s team worked<br />

around <strong>the</strong> clock to welcome back guests. The beaches<br />

are in great shape, <strong>the</strong> water is gorgeous and <strong>the</strong> welcoming<br />

people are getting ready to resume business.”<br />

a<br />

From top: This UK Royal Air Force Chinook is hovering over <strong>the</strong><br />

Turks & Caicos. The UK deployed units from several branches <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong>ir armed forces to aid in recovery and provided invaluable transport<br />

<strong>of</strong> supplies after Hurricane Irma. Just prior to <strong>the</strong> reopening<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> cruise port on November 1, Carnival and Margaritaville staff<br />

cleaned up <strong>the</strong> “strip” on Grand Turk.<br />


<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 45


feature<br />

Opposite page: In <strong>the</strong> TCI’s fishing capital <strong>of</strong> South Caicos, it was estimated that nearly every one its buildings sustained damage, with 51<br />

being totally destroyed. Salt Cay, shown here, fared no better.<br />

Above: The author and photographer inspect St. John’s Church on Salt Cay after Hurricanes Irma and Maria ravaged <strong>the</strong> tiny island.<br />


An Unexpected Adventure<br />

Visiting South Caicos and Salt Cay post-hurricanes.<br />

By John Galleymore<br />

In <strong>the</strong> ten years <strong>of</strong> being a resident <strong>of</strong> Providenciales, we had seen storms form <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> west coast <strong>of</strong> Africa<br />

and ei<strong>the</strong>r dissipate, move away or grow no larger than a tropical storm. The one exception was <strong>the</strong> 2008<br />

“double” <strong>of</strong> Hurricanes Ike and Hannah, tearing through <strong>the</strong> TCI just weeks apart, devastating <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />

Whoever could have imagined that this scenario was set to repeat nine years later in September <strong>2017</strong>?<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 47


At <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong> August <strong>2017</strong>, my wife and I flew into<br />

Providenciales from <strong>the</strong> British Virgin <strong>Islands</strong>. We had<br />

been visiting <strong>the</strong>re for some time and were very familiar<br />

with <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. Little did we know that less than two<br />

weeks later, <strong>the</strong> BVI would serve as a stark warning <strong>of</strong><br />

what was to about to hit <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>—<br />

Hurricane Irma.<br />

Early September and we are in an old rented cottage<br />

on Grace Bay, tracking <strong>the</strong> storm daily and trying to agree<br />

with <strong>the</strong> general consensus that it will turn and move<br />

away. Some folks are prepping, buying up supplies, and<br />

o<strong>the</strong>rs are securing <strong>the</strong>ir homes with plywood and hurricane<br />

shutters. Many say it’s a lot <strong>of</strong> work, only for <strong>the</strong><br />

storm to pass us by. There is little anxiety amongst many<br />

residents. The hurricane has been graded as a Category<br />

2; powerful yes, but it’s still hundreds <strong>of</strong> miles away and<br />

most people believe that <strong>the</strong> first landfall it makes will<br />

drain <strong>the</strong> power out <strong>of</strong> it. So, in <strong>the</strong> TCI, life carries on.<br />

On September 4, Hurricane Irma was up to a Category<br />

4 and people started to take notice. No more so than just<br />

<strong>18</strong> hours later, when it had streng<strong>the</strong>ned into a Category<br />

5 and made landfall, nearly wiping <strong>the</strong> island <strong>of</strong> Barbuda<br />

<strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> face <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> earth.<br />

Irma had become a terrifying beast, with maximum<br />

sustained winds peaking at <strong>18</strong>5 MPH on September 6 —<br />

it would remain steady and unchanged for <strong>the</strong> next 37<br />

hours. While maintaining this intensity, Irma made successive<br />

landfalls on September 6—on St. Martin and Tortola<br />

in <strong>the</strong> British Virgin <strong>Islands</strong>—and utter devastation was<br />

<strong>the</strong> result. Suddenly we were getting press reports and<br />

messages from <strong>the</strong>se islands and we feared that unless<br />

<strong>the</strong> storm deviated or broke up, we were in for <strong>the</strong> same.<br />

Now, as <strong>the</strong> storm moved closer, we all started tracking<br />

it and it made headlines in <strong>the</strong> US and Europe. It was<br />

measured to be bigger than France and moving at just 14<br />

MPH. Suddenly everyone was stocking up on fuel, food<br />

and searching for plywood to secure homes. We relocated<br />

to a hotel on Grace Bay, not trusting <strong>the</strong> old house we<br />

were renting, and settled in with supplies for five days<br />

along with our two very bemused dogs. That afternoon,<br />

<strong>the</strong> streets were deserted and sandbags aligned every<br />

storefront. There was nothing to do but wait.<br />

When it came, it came with force—late afternoon,<br />

early evening, <strong>the</strong> wind and rain started and by nightfall<br />

palm trees were being bent nearly double and <strong>the</strong> rain<br />

was thick and horizontal. We would be in for many hours<br />

<strong>of</strong> this. As <strong>the</strong> storm grew closer, <strong>the</strong> noise increased to<br />

that <strong>of</strong> a freight train and our ears were popping due <strong>the</strong><br />

sudden drop in air pressure.<br />

48 www.timespub.tc<br />

We sat it out, not sleeping at all, and when dawn<br />

came we ventured out onto Grace Bay Beach. It was eerily<br />

calm and <strong>the</strong> sand line had been totally altered. Perhaps<br />

a million tons <strong>of</strong> sand along this coast had been shifted<br />

overnight. We walked <strong>the</strong> streets <strong>of</strong> Grace Bay assessing<br />

trees down and ro<strong>of</strong>s blown <strong>of</strong>f, although luckily we<br />

had not been subject to <strong>the</strong> annihilation <strong>of</strong> some o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

Caribbean <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />

I was sent a picture, (remarkably FLOW had kept <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

service throughout) and it showed a photo <strong>of</strong> The Shore<br />

Club taken from hundreds <strong>of</strong> meters out with <strong>the</strong> water<br />

drained from <strong>the</strong> Caicos Bank by <strong>the</strong> wind motion.<br />

I was being contacted by global news outlets such<br />

as CNN and <strong>the</strong> BBC, who were picking up my Instagram<br />

posts and were desperate for live news on <strong>the</strong> state <strong>of</strong> our<br />

<strong>Islands</strong>.<br />

In <strong>the</strong> first day and those that followed, it was obvious<br />

that it was not <strong>the</strong> storm itself that would make us<br />

suffer, but <strong>the</strong> after-effects—no power, water or communications.<br />

Those <strong>of</strong> us who stocked up were thankful we<br />

had. Soon lines for gas were forming, with some drivers<br />

waiting six hours or more to be allotted a ration <strong>of</strong> some<br />

five gallons.<br />

Already, before <strong>the</strong> now approaching Hurricane Maria<br />

hit <strong>the</strong> TCI, <strong>the</strong> community was pulling toge<strong>the</strong>r and raising<br />

funds, supplies and awareness for those in need. I am<br />

very attached to <strong>the</strong> out islands, so it was with great relief<br />

I was able to take a boat to South Caicos to check on my<br />

good friend Tim Hamilton and take some basic supplies<br />

<strong>of</strong> food and water for him to distribute.<br />

South Caicos had been hit hard, with many ro<strong>of</strong>s<br />

taken <strong>of</strong>f and 232 <strong>of</strong> its 234 developments receiving<br />

some form <strong>of</strong> damage, with 51 being totally destroyed. It<br />

was here <strong>the</strong> UK military, now in force across <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>,<br />

Tim Hamilton distributes food and water<br />

to residents <strong>of</strong> South Caicos.




had <strong>the</strong>ir work cut out for <strong>the</strong>m. They organized logistics<br />

and started to clear <strong>the</strong> harbor, all while <strong>the</strong> sounds <strong>of</strong><br />

helicopters and cargo planes filled <strong>the</strong> air.<br />

Shortly after <strong>the</strong> hurricanes, <strong>the</strong> Sailrock development<br />

created <strong>the</strong> South Caicos Heritage Foundation to help<br />

preserve and support <strong>the</strong> local community in rebuilding.<br />

Immediately after Hurricane Irma, <strong>the</strong> Sailrock team provided<br />

aid in <strong>the</strong> form <strong>of</strong> materials, equipment, operators<br />

and logistical support, along with food and water.<br />

My next concern was that <strong>of</strong> Salt Cay, and although<br />

<strong>the</strong> residents were subject to a mandatory evacuation<br />

order, a dozen or do had chosen to stay and <strong>the</strong>re was<br />

no word from <strong>the</strong>m. A few days later, a small group <strong>of</strong><br />

us consisting <strong>of</strong> Dan and Agile LeVin, Jon Ward and Judy<br />

Dirckx were arranging supplies and relief efforts when we<br />

were <strong>of</strong>fered a ride on a Chinook to visit Salt Cay.<br />

The residents greeting us looked shell-shocked.<br />

Although <strong>the</strong>y had a solar-powered reverse osmosis system<br />

set up and <strong>the</strong> TCI Government had sent over many<br />

supplies, it was fresh food <strong>the</strong>y craved. Thanks to Judy on<br />

Providenciales who rounded up donations, we were able<br />

to supplement <strong>the</strong> relief efforts by sending over a ton <strong>of</strong><br />

food underslung on <strong>the</strong> helicopter.<br />

There was substantial damage to most ro<strong>of</strong>s, lots <strong>of</strong><br />

debris, trees down and no power. Yet within two months,<br />

power had been restored, major debris cleared from <strong>the</strong><br />

harbour area, and <strong>the</strong> main roads were driveable. The<br />

ferry service between Grand Turk and Salt Cay currently<br />

runs three times per week, plus extra freight runs as<br />

needed. With <strong>the</strong> primary school devastated, kids are<br />

attending school in Grand Turk.<br />

North District businesses and rental villas were open<br />

by December. The north shore beach has settled with<br />

steeper shoreline but a wonderful bright expanse <strong>of</strong><br />

sand. The nearby reef is gorgeous and in good health.<br />

Salt Cay Divers are organizing reef cleanups with <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

scuba guests who wish to volunteer, church restoration<br />

projects are being developed in which guests can assist<br />

and <strong>the</strong> arrival <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> whales in mid-January is hotly anticipated.<br />

All over TCI, in <strong>the</strong> weeks that followed <strong>the</strong> storms<br />

life got back to some normality. Many expatriates chose<br />

to leave <strong>the</strong> country, albeit temporarily. Many had unlivable<br />

homes; some needed to decompress and re-charge<br />

after a harrowing ordeal. Ro<strong>of</strong>s were repaired as supplies<br />

filtered in and power and water slowly restored. The TCI<br />

was down but most definitely not out, and we would<br />

rebuild and recover with a greater sense <strong>of</strong> community<br />

spirit and fortitude than ever before. a<br />

From top: Residents <strong>of</strong> South Caicos meet <strong>the</strong> Caicos Ferry, a vital link<br />

to receive supplies and return to Providenciales to stay with family<br />

and friends.<br />

Many historic buildings on South Caicos and Salt Cay were lost to <strong>the</strong><br />

hurricanes.<br />

Salt Cay’s iconic White House is still standing, although a bit worse for<br />

<strong>the</strong> wear. The Dunn family is working hard to preserve it.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 49


feature<br />

Initial assessment revealed that approximately 80% <strong>of</strong> all residences in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> received some level <strong>of</strong> damage following<br />

<strong>the</strong> passage <strong>of</strong> Hurricanes Irma and Maria this fall, most commonly to ro<strong>of</strong>s.<br />


Putting a Lid on It . . .<br />

and keeping it on.<br />

By Peter Kerrigan, Director, Engineering Design Services<br />

As a young boy, my mo<strong>the</strong>r took me and my siblings to see <strong>the</strong> musical “Fiddler on <strong>the</strong> Ro<strong>of</strong>.” My younger<br />

bro<strong>the</strong>r nearly had a heart attack when <strong>the</strong> graveyard scene was shown. Myself, well I was simply horrified<br />

at <strong>the</strong> condition <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong> and very concerned for <strong>the</strong> safety <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> fiddler. Clearly I was destined to be<br />

a structural engineer.<br />

Ro<strong>of</strong>s are like people, <strong>the</strong>y come in all shapes and sizes and some are healthier than o<strong>the</strong>rs. The negative<br />

effects <strong>of</strong> Hurricanes Irma and Maria in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> this autumn clearly demonstrated<br />

<strong>the</strong> importance <strong>of</strong> having a strong and fit ro<strong>of</strong> when living in a hurricane-prone area.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 51

Hurricane Irma, which struck <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />

<strong>Islands</strong> on September 7–8, <strong>2017</strong>, was <strong>the</strong> closest<br />

approach <strong>of</strong> a Category 5 hurricane to <strong>the</strong> country on<br />

record, with all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> country’s islands being affected.<br />

Accumulated Cyclone Energy (ACE) is a measure used by<br />

<strong>the</strong> National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration<br />

(NOAA) to approximate <strong>the</strong> wind energy used by a tropical<br />

system over its lifetime. Hurricane Irma generated<br />

<strong>the</strong> most ACE on record in <strong>the</strong> tropical Atlantic, and even<br />

more than <strong>18</strong> entire Atlantic hurricane seasons in <strong>the</strong> satellite<br />

era (since 1966). Irma’s peak sustained winds were<br />

estimated at <strong>18</strong>5 MPH, with gusts even higher. That’s<br />

what <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong>s <strong>of</strong> dwellings across <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos had<br />

to contend with.<br />

How did <strong>the</strong>y fare? In its rapid assessment report<br />

post-Hurricane Irma, <strong>the</strong> Caribbean Disaster Emergency<br />

Management Agency (CDEMA) reported that <strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />

Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> suffered nearly 80% damage to its housing<br />

stock and critical infrastructure during <strong>the</strong> hurricane’s<br />

passage. The report concluded that damage across <strong>the</strong><br />

TCI was similar in nature and related largely to ro<strong>of</strong> damage,<br />

especially level one damage. This was categorized<br />

as: loss <strong>of</strong> ro<strong>of</strong> tiles, small sections <strong>of</strong> ro<strong>of</strong> damage or<br />

destroyed windows or door damage, guttering and eave<br />

damage or loss, water damage to sections <strong>of</strong> ceilings and<br />

varying degrees <strong>of</strong> water intrusion.<br />

Anyone who viewed <strong>the</strong> TCI “live” or via photos on<br />

<strong>the</strong> Internet in <strong>the</strong> weeks and months following <strong>the</strong> storm<br />

would bear witness to <strong>the</strong> magnitude or severity <strong>of</strong> ro<strong>of</strong><br />

damage. Blue tarp and peel and seal was too common<br />

a sight. Sadly, it was an especially wet “rainy season” in<br />

October and November, and those who did not have <strong>the</strong><br />

means to quickly repair <strong>the</strong>ir ro<strong>of</strong>s suffered greatly with<br />

additional water damage and resultant mold.<br />

The geometry <strong>of</strong> a ro<strong>of</strong> plays a significant role in how<br />

it performs in high winds. Steep pitched ro<strong>of</strong>s react differently<br />

than shallow pitched or flat ro<strong>of</strong>s and <strong>the</strong> direction<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> wind relative to a particular ro<strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong>ten determines<br />

if <strong>the</strong> wind pressures are positive (pushing) or negative<br />

(suction). There is a misconception that <strong>the</strong> predominant<br />

pressure exerted on a building is a positive pressure.<br />

Depending on ro<strong>of</strong> type and wind direction, <strong>the</strong>re is just<br />

as much chance <strong>of</strong> a suction wind pressure being applied<br />

as a positive pressure.<br />

It goes without saying that all ro<strong>of</strong>s should be<br />

designed and built to withstand <strong>the</strong>se pressures.<br />

Engineers determine <strong>the</strong>se pressures from loading codes<br />

such as ASCE-7, an integral part <strong>of</strong> building codes in <strong>the</strong><br />

United States, published by <strong>the</strong> American Society <strong>of</strong> Civil<br />

FIGURE A<br />

FIGURE B<br />

Rafter to Wall Connection is critical.<br />

FIGURE C<br />

Truss to Wall Connection is critical.<br />

FIGURE D<br />

Rafter to Wall Connection is critical.<br />

Cut or Stick Ro<strong>of</strong><br />

Cut or Stick Ro<strong>of</strong> with a Collar Tie<br />

Truss Ro<strong>of</strong><br />

Indicative Details Only<br />

Installed GC4 GC6Z<br />

Rafter<br />

Collar Tie<br />

Rafter<br />

Triangulation<br />

Rafter<br />

Bottom Chord<br />

Hurricane Clip<br />

Engineers. The code describes <strong>the</strong> means for determining<br />

dead, live, soil, flood, tsunami, snow, rain, atmospheric<br />

ice, earthquake and wind loads, and <strong>the</strong>ir many combinations<br />

are <strong>the</strong>n used as <strong>the</strong> basis for structural analysis<br />

and design.<br />

The resultant design pressures are used to analyze<br />

<strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong> frame and cladding (covering) and <strong>the</strong> building<br />

GC6Z<br />

as a whole. The negative pressures are used to determine<br />

uplift loads at rafter or truss-bearing points and those<br />

Bolt Hole to<br />

loads are used to determine what strap or Beam mechanical<br />

Edge Depth<br />

fixing is chosen to restrain/hold down <strong>the</strong> rafter or truss.<br />

Simpson or USP are <strong>the</strong> most common straps or fixings.<br />

The too-<strong>of</strong>ten installed “hurricane clip” (See Figure D<br />

above) should not be used on residential projects. They<br />

52 www.timespub.tc

EDS_Layout 1 12/<strong>18</strong>/17 9:44 AM Page 1<br />

are too small for most, if not all, residential projects and<br />

do not have sufficient capacity to cope with <strong>the</strong> uplift<br />

loads resulting from a hurricane. Instead, hurricane<br />

straps <strong>of</strong> adequate size should be used.<br />

All ro<strong>of</strong>s should be shea<strong>the</strong>d (decked) with ei<strong>the</strong>r<br />

plywood or Tongue & Groove boards. It provides <strong>the</strong> substrate<br />

to which <strong>the</strong> peel and seal and ro<strong>of</strong> finish is laid.<br />

The sheathing should be at least 5/8" thick but some ro<strong>of</strong><br />

finishes require a fixing embedment <strong>of</strong> 3/4" to achieve<br />

compliance, and in such cases <strong>the</strong> sheathing installed<br />

should be 3/4” thick.<br />

The sheathing should be secured to <strong>the</strong> rafters at<br />

a minimum <strong>of</strong> 6" centers throughout <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong> surface.<br />

Leading edges along <strong>the</strong> ridge, eaves and hips should be<br />

secured at 4" centers. Adequate fixings with appropriate<br />

embedment into <strong>the</strong> rafters should be installed. The hotdipped<br />

galvanized “Ring Shank” nail is a good example <strong>of</strong><br />

a recommended fixing.<br />

The sheathing is not only utilized as a substrate on<br />

which to fix <strong>the</strong> peel and seal or ro<strong>of</strong> finish. A critical part<br />

<strong>of</strong> its job is to provide diaphragm action to <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong>. This<br />

diaphragm action essentially stiffens <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong> plane and<br />

helps to transmit lateral (horizontal) loads to <strong>the</strong> main<br />

walls and downwards to <strong>the</strong> foundations. The sheathing<br />

and how it is connected to a ro<strong>of</strong> in a hurricane zone is<br />

all-important.<br />

The ro<strong>of</strong> or ro<strong>of</strong> framing can be constructed in many<br />

different ways and some ro<strong>of</strong>s are by <strong>the</strong>ir nature more<br />

stable than o<strong>the</strong>rs. A “stick” or “cut” ro<strong>of</strong> is a perfectly<br />

acceptable ro<strong>of</strong> if <strong>the</strong> rafter size is appropriate for <strong>the</strong><br />

span, however if a collar tie is included <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong> becomes<br />

more stable by default. (See Figures A & B at left.) A full<br />

truss is yet more stable and probably <strong>the</strong> most stable <strong>of</strong><br />

all ro<strong>of</strong>s by virtue <strong>of</strong> its triangulation. (See Figure C at<br />

left.) Each ro<strong>of</strong> type and its associated member sizes will<br />

have <strong>the</strong>ir limitations, and depending on what ro<strong>of</strong> or<br />

combinations <strong>of</strong> ro<strong>of</strong> styles are chosen by a homeowner,<br />

<strong>the</strong> engineer must design accordingly.<br />

The structure onto which <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong> will be supported<br />

must also be well designed and fit for purpose.<br />

Reinforced walls should incorporate stiffener columns<br />

and belt or ring beams. Timber frame buildings should<br />

be braced to prevent racking or lateral sway. (This can<br />

also be achieved by sheathing <strong>the</strong> inside or outside <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> timber stud walls with plywood.) The ro<strong>of</strong> on a timber<br />

frame building needs to be connected to <strong>the</strong> wall,<br />

which in turn needs to be connected to <strong>the</strong> floor, and <strong>the</strong><br />

floor to <strong>the</strong> foundations. And very importantly, <strong>the</strong> weight<br />

combination <strong>of</strong> all elements needs to be greater than <strong>the</strong><br />

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<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 53

total uplift load resulting from a hurricane storm.<br />

Any ro<strong>of</strong> should be well maintained over its lifespan.<br />

All enclosed timber ro<strong>of</strong>s should be well ventilated, but<br />

not too much so that it weakens <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong>. Timbers and<br />

plywood should be pressure-treated.<br />

We structural engineers are <strong>of</strong>ten accused <strong>of</strong> overdesigning.<br />

My typical response is, “We design for <strong>the</strong><br />

worst case scenario.” Now, many <strong>of</strong> us know what that<br />

worst case scenario looks and feels like. We all hope and<br />

pray we won’t have to experience one again. But in all<br />

likelihood, we will. So we should at least be prepared.<br />

The finished ro<strong>of</strong> is more than a ro<strong>of</strong>. It is one <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> most important components <strong>of</strong> a home. It protects<br />

<strong>the</strong> building, your family and your possessions. It should<br />

be well designed and well constructed—well fit to host a<br />

fiddler like Irma, should she turn up to play a tune. a<br />

54 www.timespub.tc

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feature<br />


Residents <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos had need for adequate insurance after Hurricanes Irma and Maria tore through <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> this fall. Sadly,<br />

reports by <strong>the</strong> Caribbean Disaster Emergency Management Agency (CDEMA) revealed that only 14% <strong>of</strong> total houses damaged had home<br />

insurance that covered disaster risk.<br />

To Need and Not Have . . .<br />

A look at insurance in <strong>the</strong> face <strong>of</strong> disaster.<br />

By Craig Archibold, Account Executive, Property & Casualty, NW Hamilton Insurance Services Ltd.<br />

As I reflect on <strong>the</strong> events <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> unprecedented <strong>2017</strong> hurricane season, I found myself in deep consideration<br />

<strong>of</strong> an old saying my mo<strong>the</strong>r would always say to us as children, “Better to have and not need, than<br />

to need and not have.”<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 57

As an insurance pr<strong>of</strong>essional, I understand this as a<br />

modern thought that was in some way ahead <strong>of</strong> its time.<br />

Our society has grown tremendously over <strong>the</strong> past 30+<br />

years and today’s economy has come with major financial<br />

commitments and personal investments that demand a<br />

wise approach to managing our risk associated with hurricanes<br />

and o<strong>the</strong>r natural catastrophes.<br />

To need and not have is a great motivation for us<br />

in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. There is truly no greater<br />

security to your property investments in <strong>the</strong> TCI than<br />

insurance. As a community, <strong>the</strong> instrument <strong>of</strong> insurance<br />

must become a part <strong>of</strong> our vernacular as a tool in managing<br />

risk and protecting our hard-earned assets—and not<br />

simply thought <strong>of</strong> as an enforced mortgage requirement<br />

and expense.<br />

Insurance is <strong>the</strong> antidote to <strong>the</strong> “need and not have”<br />

dilemma. It is not a scheme or a proverbial money pit;<br />

something that you pay into, but get nothing back from.<br />

Some invoke such talking point with no experience <strong>of</strong> an<br />

unfortunate event that threatens personal investments<br />

accumulated in <strong>the</strong> short or long term. Insurance has<br />

been tested and tried for centuries as <strong>the</strong> ultimate security<br />

fix to an unknown financial loss. It is in fact a valuable<br />

tool in your pocket to protect your interest and more than<br />

a bank-required instrument <strong>of</strong> security.<br />

Throughout centuries, insurance has been proven<br />

to be a tool and security feature to safeguard assets. In<br />

1601, <strong>the</strong> first insurance legislation was enacted in <strong>the</strong><br />

United Kingdom; coverage for merchandise and ships has<br />

its roots in this law. It was necessary to make arrangements<br />

and plan contingencies to ensure that merchants<br />

did not lose all <strong>the</strong>ir investments tied up in cargo and<br />

ship owners did not lose <strong>the</strong>ir source <strong>of</strong> wealth if <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

ships went down and were taken by <strong>the</strong> sea. With <strong>the</strong><br />

increasing demand for ship and cargo insurance, Edward<br />

Lloyd’s C<strong>of</strong>fee Shop became recognized as <strong>the</strong> place for<br />

obtaining marine insurance; this is where “Lloyd’s” that<br />

we know today began.<br />

Although insurance in London began with Lloyd’s<br />

<strong>of</strong> London, <strong>the</strong> methodology <strong>of</strong> pooling <strong>the</strong> reserves <strong>of</strong><br />

many to pay for <strong>the</strong> claims <strong>of</strong> few was recreated throughout<br />

financial corporations, who took insurance out<br />

beyond marine and cargo insurance. In today’s insurance<br />

industry, most types <strong>of</strong> insurance can be sourced and <strong>the</strong><br />

models established globally are centered on this shared<br />

principal objective—<strong>the</strong> belief that <strong>the</strong>re is strength in<br />

numbers, a joint force against all kinds <strong>of</strong> calamities<br />

including financial troubles.<br />

In 1688, <strong>the</strong> home insurance industry would be<br />

established, ushering in a paradigm for o<strong>the</strong>r lines <strong>of</strong><br />

insurance cover. The types <strong>of</strong> insurance available in <strong>the</strong><br />

modern insurance market are wide and varied. However,<br />

general insurance underwritten by insurance companies<br />

is typically restricted to mainstream insurance such as:<br />

commercial property, household/homeowner’s, liability<br />

and motor insurance. Household (property) insurance is<br />

a personal line <strong>of</strong> insurance, however in much <strong>the</strong> same<br />

way, commercial property is covered against <strong>the</strong> risk <strong>of</strong><br />

fire, flood, storm, <strong>the</strong>ft, malicious damage and accidental<br />

damage.<br />

When pursuing <strong>the</strong> purchase <strong>of</strong> insurance <strong>the</strong>re are<br />

a few considerations. One would be to know your asset<br />

This ironic shot shows hurricane debris on Grand Turk<br />

following <strong>the</strong> passage <strong>of</strong> Hurricane Irma.<br />


58 www.timespub.tc

Blue Loos_Layout 1 5/28/17 4:13 PM Page 1<br />

value and imagine for a brief moment how losing it with<br />

no recourse for restoration would impact you financially.<br />

The concept <strong>of</strong> insuring and having adequate coverage<br />

is <strong>of</strong>ten misunderstood and to a large degree taken for<br />

granted. The disproportionate nature <strong>of</strong> underinsuring<br />

your property comes with great financial exposure. A<br />

guide to recover from such potential crisis would be to<br />

consult a qualified evaluator for property evaluation. This<br />

puts you in a strong position <strong>of</strong> understanding your property’s<br />

worth as it seeks to establish <strong>the</strong> replacement value<br />

<strong>of</strong> your property consistent with current market trends.<br />

With property values in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos among <strong>the</strong><br />

highest in <strong>the</strong> region and <strong>the</strong> daunting cost <strong>of</strong> construction<br />

to replace assets, conventional wisdom demands<br />

having added security against property loss and business<br />

interruption. The need to have insurance has become a<br />

must-have. Policies such as homeowner’s and commercial<br />

property insurance are <strong>the</strong> leading coverage in our local<br />

industry.<br />

The meteorological predictions for <strong>the</strong> <strong>2017</strong> hurricane<br />

season anticipated that <strong>the</strong> season would bear much<br />

activity. With <strong>the</strong> reality <strong>of</strong> major storms Ike, Hanna, Irma<br />

and Maria within <strong>the</strong> past nine years, <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />

<strong>Islands</strong> are still processing and grappling with <strong>the</strong>ir after-<br />

All your septic tank solutions<br />

in one place provided by a<br />

family-owned business that<br />

cares about <strong>the</strong> environment<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks and Caicos<br />

<strong>Islands</strong>.<br />

Call Blue Loos 231 7448 to<br />

have your tank emptied,<br />

cleaned or fixed. All waste<br />

disposed <strong>of</strong> in a licensed facility.<br />

Call IWWTT on 232 1279 for information<br />

about installing a new septic system or<br />

re-fitting your old system. We are agents<br />

for Bionest and FujiClean; both systems<br />

<strong>of</strong>fer a wide range <strong>of</strong> options for your<br />

perfect septic tank solution.<br />

Eco Friendly<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 59


Since our Fall update, Mario Rigby has travelled<br />

from Sudan to Egypt and is expected to finish<br />

his journey from Cape to Cairo on December 30,<br />

<strong>2017</strong>. Look for <strong>the</strong> story in <strong>the</strong> Spring 20<strong>18</strong> issue<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />

math, although <strong>the</strong> road to recovery has been rapid. Our<br />

community has learned that “to need and not have” is no<br />

longer an option to avert a financial loss. With <strong>the</strong> devastation<br />

<strong>of</strong> homes, businesses and infrastructure occurring<br />

in hours, even with sufficient warnings, our best construction,<br />

best intentions and every conceivable precaution,<br />

<strong>the</strong> force <strong>of</strong> nature is overwhelming and destructive.<br />

We must recognize <strong>the</strong> catastrophic nature <strong>of</strong> hurricanes<br />

and <strong>the</strong> devastating after-effects <strong>the</strong>y have both<br />

financial and emotionally. We believe that communities<br />

at large are better served when <strong>the</strong>y make <strong>the</strong> necessary<br />

preparation to mitigate loss during such times. The tempests<br />

know no bounds and destruction <strong>the</strong>refore is not<br />

confined to any particular demographic, economic or cultural<br />

class.<br />

Whe<strong>the</strong>r you agree with <strong>the</strong> arguments for climate<br />

change or not, <strong>the</strong> earth is warming and <strong>the</strong> noticeable<br />

differences in wea<strong>the</strong>r patterns continue to escalate,<br />

producing peculiar natural disasters around <strong>the</strong> globe.<br />

Hurricanes remain a great threat to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />

<strong>Islands</strong> and <strong>the</strong> region. It is incumbent that we lobby for<br />

changes or affirm policies in our building codes and hope<br />

that <strong>the</strong> relevant government agencies oversee <strong>the</strong> proper<br />

construction <strong>of</strong> neighboring buildings; <strong>the</strong> absence <strong>of</strong><br />

such oversight, however, will not negate our responsibility<br />

to insure our properties.<br />

The insurance industry in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong><br />

is well regulated and thus far has made good on its<br />

claims in Hurricanes Ike and Hanna (2008), and <strong>the</strong> recent<br />

double whammies <strong>of</strong> Hurricanes Irma and Maria. The<br />

Financial Services Commission has always been proactive<br />

in its obligations to see that those operating in <strong>the</strong> industry<br />

are solvent and are sufficiently reinsured.<br />

The experience from <strong>the</strong> recent hurricane events,<br />

and in particular <strong>the</strong>ir effects, provides a plethora <strong>of</strong><br />

lessons to compel rational minds that threats are no<br />

longer probabilities but ra<strong>the</strong>r reality for <strong>the</strong> foreseeable<br />

future. Destruction can be self-imposed and in most<br />

cases beyond human control in <strong>the</strong> context <strong>of</strong> a natural<br />

disaster. This gives more reason than none to better<br />

prepare ourselves to mitigate a potential loss during any<br />

unfortunate catastrophe that comes with warning and<br />

unforeseen circumstances. I believe that this can only be<br />

achieved by having appropriate and adequate insurance<br />

coverage and heeding <strong>the</strong> warnings established through<br />

<strong>of</strong>ficial government and private agencies to protect us<br />

from financial vulnerabilities, because it is better to have<br />

and not need, than to need and not have. a<br />

60 www.timespub.tc

astrolabe<br />

newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

front street, p.o. box <strong>18</strong>8, grand turk, turks & caicos islands, bwi<br />

tel 649 946 2160 • fax 649 946 2160 • email info@tcmuseum.org • web www.tcmuseum.org<br />


This is <strong>the</strong> state <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum’s exhibit<br />

building, <strong>the</strong> Guinep House, following <strong>the</strong> combined beating <strong>of</strong><br />

Hurricanes Irma and Maria on Grand Turk in September <strong>2017</strong>.<br />

Starting Over<br />

By Dr. Donald H. Keith, President,<br />

Turks & Caicos National Museum Foundation<br />

<strong>2017</strong>: a year to forget? No, a year to remember! Yes, we all suffered losses, but we also learned<br />

important lessons that must not be forgotten as we start over with our lives and livelihoods after “IrMaria,”<br />

<strong>the</strong> two powerful hurricanes that slammed into Grand Turk only two weeks apart with 150+ MPH winds<br />

striking from both east and west.<br />

This issue features two stories about starting over. In one, <strong>the</strong> intellectual curiosity <strong>of</strong> a Tennessee<br />

schoolteacher leads her to re-invent her life in <strong>the</strong> process <strong>of</strong> single-handedly uncovering a largely forgotten,<br />

but critical, episode in <strong>the</strong> history <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. The subjects <strong>of</strong> her study, <strong>the</strong> “Georgia<br />

Loyalists,” were <strong>the</strong>mselves starting over, having been driven out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> United States after <strong>the</strong> War <strong>of</strong><br />

Independence more than 200 years ago.<br />

In <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r, we learn <strong>the</strong> previously untold story <strong>of</strong> a group <strong>of</strong> 19 Californians who decided to abandon<br />

<strong>the</strong> US and start <strong>the</strong>ir lives over on an island paradise—East Caicos! Unfortunately for <strong>the</strong>m, <strong>the</strong><br />

realities were considerably different from <strong>the</strong>ir dreams. The moral <strong>of</strong> this story seems to be “Fortune<br />

does not favor <strong>the</strong> unprepared.”<br />

But fortune does favor <strong>the</strong> prepared! Following <strong>the</strong> destruction <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Victoria Library by arson earlier<br />

this year, <strong>the</strong> Museum is installing state-<strong>of</strong>-<strong>the</strong>-art fire suppression and security systems in both <strong>the</strong><br />

Guinep House and <strong>the</strong> Science Building. There is nothing humans can do to prevent hurricanes, but after<br />

months without power on Grand Turk following IrMaria, we are installing our own diesel-powered 50<br />

KW generator so that when storms hit in <strong>the</strong> future, we can keep <strong>the</strong> lights and security systems on, and<br />

climate control running to protect our collections and exhibits.<br />

Perhaps <strong>the</strong> most important lesson learned is that <strong>the</strong> Museum’s location on Grand Turk, 64 feet<br />

from <strong>the</strong> North Atlantic Ocean, is too vulnerable to destruction from hurricane winds and flooding to<br />

be <strong>the</strong> repository for all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Museum’s collections and holdings. At least some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most fragile<br />

and precious books, photographs, letters and artifacts must be moved to a more secure, purpose-built<br />

structure at <strong>the</strong> Museum’s campus, more than half a mile from <strong>the</strong> sea, in <strong>the</strong> Village at Grace Bay on<br />

Providenciales. A National Museum is not defined by <strong>the</strong> buildings it occupies, but by <strong>the</strong> collections it<br />

is responsible for. If its collections are destroyed, it cannot just start over. a<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 61

astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />


These ruins can still be found on <strong>the</strong> shore at Jacksonville, East Caicos.<br />

Modern Crusoes<br />

“Streamlined Pioneers” seek utopia on East Caicos.<br />

By Jeffrey Dodge<br />

Newspapers all over America called <strong>the</strong>m “Utopians,” “Streamlined Pioneers,” “Modern Crusoes,” “New<br />

Life Seekers” and “Colonists.” These were just a few <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> monikers given to a group <strong>of</strong> 19 Californians<br />

seeking “to get away from civilization as it now operates for <strong>the</strong> lesser-privileged.” Group leader Richard C.<br />

Irvine said, “We have a chance to attain a security we cannot get in <strong>the</strong> United States because <strong>of</strong> uncertain<br />

social conditions and <strong>the</strong> terrific differential in wage scales and taxes.” Sound familiar? Like something<br />

you might read in <strong>the</strong> papers today? No—this was 78 years ago!<br />

62 www.timespub.tc

astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

The pioneers<br />

In late 1939, a party <strong>of</strong> five California families and three<br />

bachelors, totaling nineteen, formed a closed corporation<br />

<strong>the</strong>y called <strong>the</strong> East Caicos Trading Company. They sold<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir homes, left <strong>the</strong>ir jobs and friends and prepared to<br />

move to East Caicos, <strong>the</strong> largest uninhabited island in<br />

<strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos. Members <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> group ranged in age<br />

from 17 months to 69 years. Among <strong>the</strong>m were a traveling<br />

salesman, a carpenter for Walt Disney, a housekeeper<br />

for Mary Pickford, a retired Standard Oil Co. engineer,<br />

a horticulturist, an electrician, an insurance investigator<br />

and a nurse. It was reported that members <strong>of</strong> this group<br />

were selected from “hundreds” that replied to advertisements—however,<br />

no such ads have been found to date.<br />

Paradise chosen<br />

They selected East Caicos because Mrs. Grace Lake (née<br />

Reynolds), a member <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> group, owned a large tract <strong>of</strong><br />

land <strong>the</strong>re. Grace Lake’s Irish fa<strong>the</strong>r, John N. Reynolds,<br />

moved to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> about <strong>18</strong>56 and<br />

became a salt merchant with salinas on South Caicos.<br />

As trustee for his four children, Reynolds acquired 1,288<br />

acres at Breezy Point on <strong>the</strong> north shore <strong>of</strong> East Caicos<br />

in <strong>18</strong>71, as well as a 99-year lease from <strong>the</strong> British<br />

Government for most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> rest <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> island.<br />

His initial intention was to raise cattle and supply meat<br />

to neighboring islands. By <strong>18</strong>84, Reynolds was extracting<br />

and selling bat guano from caves in <strong>the</strong> interior for<br />

fertilizer. He was also involved in <strong>the</strong> sisal industry that<br />

began <strong>the</strong>re about <strong>18</strong>90. The guano played out in late<br />

<strong>18</strong>80s and, unable to compete with <strong>the</strong> superior qualities<br />

<strong>of</strong> manila hemp from <strong>the</strong> Philippines, <strong>the</strong> sisal operation<br />

ceased about 1919. Abandoned when both <strong>the</strong>se<br />

commercial operations failed, substantial industrial and<br />

residential structures still lie about <strong>the</strong> island, including a<br />

narrow gauge railroad built to move sisal from <strong>the</strong> fields<br />

to <strong>the</strong> processing area.<br />

Grace Reynolds was born on <strong>the</strong> Turks <strong>Islands</strong> in<br />

<strong>18</strong>81 and lived <strong>the</strong>re until she moved to Boston with her<br />

mo<strong>the</strong>r Elizabeth and three siblings in <strong>18</strong>90. With <strong>the</strong><br />

death <strong>of</strong> her bro<strong>the</strong>r John Jr. in 1925, Grace became <strong>the</strong><br />

sole owner <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> property at Breezy Point as well as <strong>the</strong><br />

years remaining on <strong>the</strong> 99-year lease. She married her<br />

second husband, James Lake, in 1925. It is not known<br />

when in <strong>the</strong> late 1930s <strong>the</strong> Lakes moved to California<br />

from Massachusetts or how <strong>the</strong>y met Richard C. Irvine,<br />

From top: Grace and James Lake plan <strong>the</strong>ir journey to East Caicos.<br />

The yacht Spindrift is tied up in <strong>the</strong> Miami River in February 1940.<br />

Members <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> group pose aboard Spindrift in Miami just before<br />

departing for East Caicos in February 1940.<br />

who became <strong>the</strong> leader <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> group <strong>of</strong> Californians seeking<br />

a better life on East Caicos.<br />

Records show that James Lake returned to New<br />

York from a trip to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos in April 1934.<br />

Recounting his experiences on this trip, Lake told <strong>the</strong><br />

California “pioneers” that he visited East Caicos and found<br />

it to be a virtual “Paradise.” He excitedly described <strong>the</strong><br />

island as covered in hardwood forests (mahogany and<br />

lignum vitae) as well as papayas and fruit trees. O<strong>the</strong>r<br />


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hides and <strong>the</strong> bat guano found in <strong>the</strong> caves for fertilizer.<br />

There was also sisal to cultivate, and papaya fruits and<br />

shark liver oil to turn into medicinal products.<br />

In addition to <strong>the</strong> many resources waiting for <strong>the</strong>m<br />

on East Caicos, <strong>the</strong> “adventurers” brought clothing, tents,<br />

food for three months, and tools for building homes<br />

and growing crops. They reportedly shipped separately<br />

several tons <strong>of</strong> goods including electrical generating<br />

equipment for lights, hundreds <strong>of</strong> seeds, additional tools<br />

and radio equipment to establish a broadcasting station.<br />

These items were shipped from California to Jamaica<br />

where <strong>the</strong>y would eventually be forwarded to East Caicos.<br />

Whe<strong>the</strong>r or not <strong>the</strong>se supplies ever reached East Caicos is<br />

unknown. There was a report that <strong>the</strong> shipment was held<br />

up in Panama because <strong>of</strong> lost documentation.<br />


The stone house ruins still standing at Jacksonville, East Caicos (top)<br />

appear similar to <strong>the</strong> structure seen in <strong>the</strong> image (above) <strong>of</strong> James<br />

Lake, Richard Irvine (group leader), Olaf Lornsten and Gaston Blum,<br />

captain <strong>of</strong> Spindrift, on East Caicos.<br />

resources <strong>of</strong> potential economic benefit included hundreds<br />

<strong>of</strong> wild cattle and thousands <strong>of</strong> wild donkeys from<br />

<strong>the</strong> days <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sisal enterprise twenty years earlier. The<br />

sisal industry, he said, had also left behind two concrete<br />

35,000-gallon water catchment tanks that would provide<br />

fresh water for <strong>the</strong> group. There was even talk that East<br />

Caicos was once <strong>the</strong> haunt <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> pirate Henry Morgan,<br />

suggesting buried treasure was a possibility!<br />

Careful planning and many promises<br />

Roughing it was not part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> plan. James Lake and<br />

Richard Irvine explained to <strong>the</strong> group that <strong>the</strong>y would initially<br />

live in tents and later build permanent homes from<br />

<strong>the</strong> lumber <strong>the</strong>y would harvest from <strong>the</strong> hardwood forests.<br />

They could support <strong>the</strong>mselves by selling <strong>the</strong> cattle<br />

and donkeys roaming wild on <strong>the</strong> island for meat and<br />

The journey was rough<br />

The trip to “Paradise” began on January 16, 1940, with<br />

<strong>the</strong> group leaving California for Florida in two cars, a<br />

truck and a trailer. Each family paid between $1,000 and<br />

$2,000 to participate in this venture (roughly equivalent<br />

to $17,000–$34,000 today!) Group leader Irvine stated<br />

that <strong>the</strong> total cost <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> venture was $10,000 ($170,000<br />

today) and that he expected <strong>the</strong>y would be self-supporting<br />

within three months.<br />

The journey to Florida was difficult and many in <strong>the</strong><br />

party were sick with colds by <strong>the</strong> time <strong>the</strong>y arrived in<br />

Tampa on January 24. They sold <strong>the</strong> automobiles, truck,<br />

and trailer in Miami and two or three weeks later signed<br />

an agreement with George Conley and Capt. Gaston Blum<br />

<strong>of</strong> Chicago to provide transportation for <strong>the</strong> group to East<br />

Caicos on <strong>the</strong> yacht Spindrift.<br />

The group left Miami on Spindrift for East Caicos<br />

on February <strong>18</strong>, 1940. The agreement between <strong>the</strong><br />

Conley-Blum syndicate and <strong>the</strong> “colonists” included free<br />

transportation to East Caicos in exchange for rights to<br />

develop <strong>the</strong> island into a tourist resort. Conley and Blum<br />

were to promote <strong>the</strong> island back in <strong>the</strong> U.S., transport<br />

more people and supplies to <strong>the</strong> Island, and eventually<br />

establish a resort <strong>the</strong>re. Colonizing East Caicos<br />

was beginning to look more and more like a businessfor-pr<strong>of</strong>it<br />

venture and less like <strong>the</strong> co-operative colony<br />

originally envisioned.<br />

East Caicos at last<br />

Spindrift arrived at East Caicos on March 2, 1940. The<br />

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wea<strong>the</strong>r had been terrible and <strong>the</strong> passage was rough—<br />

forcing <strong>the</strong>m to lay over in Key West and again in Cuba.<br />

When <strong>the</strong> passengers finally arrived at <strong>the</strong>ir destination,<br />

<strong>the</strong>y were seasick, tired and almost immediately disappointed.<br />

Spindrift had to anchor <strong>of</strong>fshore due to <strong>the</strong><br />

coral reefs and shallow water that surround <strong>the</strong> island,<br />

requiring many trips ashore by tender to move people<br />

and supplies from <strong>the</strong> yacht to <strong>the</strong> beach.<br />

By <strong>the</strong> time everything was on shore, it was late and<br />

<strong>the</strong> “pioneers” were hungry. Their first meal ashore was<br />

bread and canned fruit, though it was reported that some<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> men speared lobsters to boil and eat later that<br />

evening. Since <strong>the</strong>re was no time to set up tents, <strong>the</strong><br />

“adventurers” camped under <strong>the</strong> stars on <strong>the</strong> beach, but<br />

<strong>the</strong> fierce mosquitoes and constant braying <strong>of</strong> wild donkeys<br />

made sleep on East Caicos that night impossible.<br />

The following day <strong>the</strong>y draped a canvas tarpaulin<br />

over <strong>the</strong> walls <strong>of</strong> an abandoned and windowless shell <strong>of</strong><br />

a building left by <strong>the</strong> sisal company, supporting it with<br />

rails taken from <strong>the</strong> old railroad. This was where <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

supplies would be stored. Inhabitants from neighboring<br />

islands, curious and looking for work, traveled to East<br />

Caicos. They were each paid 50 cents a day to clear an<br />

area <strong>of</strong> scrub, bush and sisal so <strong>the</strong> settlers could erect<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir tents.<br />

Reality dawns<br />

Two or three days after <strong>the</strong>ir arrival, <strong>the</strong> eager “pioneers”<br />

went forth to survey <strong>the</strong> island and locate <strong>the</strong> valuable<br />

resources promised <strong>the</strong>m. It was not long before <strong>the</strong>y<br />

realized that <strong>the</strong>re would be no beef to eat—hunted out<br />

years earlier, <strong>the</strong> cattle were gone. There were donkeys,<br />

but in smaller numbers than expected. It looked like fish<br />

and possibly donkey would be <strong>the</strong>ir only sources <strong>of</strong> protein<br />

and <strong>the</strong> only fresh vegetables were those <strong>the</strong>y could<br />

buy from <strong>the</strong> inhabitants <strong>of</strong> nearby islands. There were<br />

no bananas, no papayas or o<strong>the</strong>r edibles growing on <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

newfound home.<br />

Not only were <strong>the</strong> cattle gone, but also <strong>the</strong> guano<br />

<strong>the</strong>y intended to sell had been depleted years before.<br />

There were no hardwood forests. There did not seem to<br />

be any resources <strong>the</strong>y could sell to make money, and<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir money was already running short. Adding to <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

problems, <strong>the</strong> yacht Spindrift did not return with more<br />

people or supplies.<br />

A 1940 newspaper article suggests that contrary<br />

Grace and James Lake (shown on previous page) stand in front <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong>ir tent on East Caicos.<br />

to his claim that he personally surveyed East Caicos in<br />

1934, James Lake took his description <strong>of</strong> it from charts<br />

and hearsay from o<strong>the</strong>rs. It is an interesting coincidence<br />

that in 1936 a newspaper reported that a Capt. Arthur<br />

A. Lawrence <strong>of</strong> Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania said that he<br />

had spent several years on North Caicos, describing it<br />

as a “Paradise.” His description <strong>of</strong> North Caicos and <strong>the</strong><br />

resources <strong>the</strong>re, which was probably accurate, was very<br />

much like <strong>the</strong> description James Lake attributed to East<br />

Caicos when he promoted it to <strong>the</strong> group <strong>of</strong> California<br />

“pioneers.”<br />

Paradise abandoned<br />

Within days, sunburn and infected sand flea and mosquito<br />

bites were taking <strong>the</strong>ir toll on <strong>the</strong> group. The Irvine’s 17<br />

month-old baby was covered with infected mosquito bites<br />

and tempers were growing short. Some members <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

party were no longer speaking to each o<strong>the</strong>r. After just<br />

four weeks on <strong>the</strong> island, group leader Richard Irvine,<br />

his wife, <strong>the</strong>ir four children and <strong>18</strong> year-old bachelor<br />

Ned Read left for Miami. Ano<strong>the</strong>r couple, Mr. and Mrs. E.<br />

A. Lawrence, left at <strong>the</strong> same time, but took a different<br />

route arriving in Miami on April 12, 1940. Reportedly,<br />

Mr. Lawrence kissed <strong>the</strong> dock and danced a jig when he<br />

landed <strong>the</strong>re. The Irvine family and Ned Read arrived in<br />

Miami on April 15, 1940. Richard Irvine told reporters<br />

he might return to East Caicos, but his wife said, “You’re<br />

crazy if you come back, Caicos is a desert.” Ten members<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> group remained on East Caicos, including James<br />

and Grace Lake, who told <strong>the</strong> departing members <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

party that <strong>the</strong>y intended to “stay and tough it out.” Andres<br />

Lornsten, <strong>the</strong> retired Standard Oil Co. engineer, took over<br />

as group leader.<br />


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astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

Exactly what happened on East Caicos after nine<br />

members <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> group departed in April 1940 is<br />

unknown. However, it was reported that Boyce Phillips<br />

told <strong>the</strong> departing members that he would soon be heading<br />

to Panama to work for <strong>the</strong> government. Passenger<br />

lists show that Cletys Ackerman and Hjalmar and Greta<br />

Kvanvig left East Caicos in July, arriving in Miami on<br />

August 8, 1940 aboard <strong>the</strong> vessel Betty K from Nassau.<br />

Passenger lists recorded that Grace Lake arrived in Miami<br />

on February 14, 1942 and her husband, James Lake,<br />

arrived a year later on April 10, 1943. There is no information<br />

to explain why <strong>the</strong>y arrived separately or whe<strong>the</strong>r<br />

or not <strong>the</strong>y remained on East Caicos until <strong>the</strong>y returned<br />

to Miami. Andres Lornsten, his wife Isabella and <strong>the</strong>ir two<br />

adult children arrived in Key West in 1945. It is not known<br />

if <strong>the</strong>y spent five years on East Caicos or somewhere else<br />

before returning to <strong>the</strong> U.S.<br />

While we do not know when <strong>the</strong> last “pioneer” left<br />

East Caicos, it is certain that <strong>the</strong>y did not succeed in<br />

establishing a viable colony <strong>the</strong>re. There is reference to<br />

<strong>the</strong> repatriation <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> last members <strong>of</strong> this group, possibly<br />

<strong>the</strong> Lornsten family, during WWII partly at government<br />

expense—but exactly which government is unclear.<br />

None<strong>the</strong>less, within a few years <strong>the</strong> island was once again<br />

uninhabited—left to <strong>the</strong> donkeys and mosquitoes. a<br />

Epilogue<br />

Not long after <strong>the</strong> Utopians’ abortive attempt to start a<br />

new life on East Caicos, Grace Lake conveyed <strong>the</strong> Breezy<br />

Point land she owned to her daughter, Alice L. Christensen,<br />

a Bermudian by marriage. In May 1949, members <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Christensen family went to East Caicos to determine if it<br />

could become “ano<strong>the</strong>r Bermuda.” They were disappointed.<br />

In 1968, at <strong>the</strong> suggestion <strong>of</strong> a friend, retired British S.O.E.<br />

(Special Operations Executive) <strong>of</strong>ficer and journalist John<br />

Houseman moved to East Caicos with his wife and two<br />

children, with <strong>the</strong> intention <strong>of</strong> establishing a hotel. A few<br />

months after setting up camp, Houseman’s wife left him<br />

and <strong>the</strong> plan collapsed. In 1970, <strong>the</strong> Christensens sold <strong>the</strong><br />

property to <strong>the</strong> Solar Group <strong>of</strong> Bermuda. The Breezy Point<br />

property is now owned by <strong>the</strong> Arden Group <strong>of</strong> Philadelphia,<br />

and is currently listed for sale.<br />

Members <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> group <strong>of</strong> “Pioneers”<br />

Irvine, Richard C. – group leader, sales (age 43)<br />

Irvine, M. Louise – spouse (age 37)<br />

Irvine, Jane – daughter, student (age 17)<br />

Irvine, Helene D. – daughter (age 7)<br />

Irvine, Dawn – daughter (age 9)<br />

Irvine, King – baby son (age 17 months)<br />

Lake, James – insurance investigator (age 69)<br />

Lake, Grace – East Caicos land owner (age 60)<br />

Lornsten, Andreas – retired, Standard Oil Co. (age 59)<br />

Lornsten, Isabella – spouse (age 46)<br />

Lornsten, Olaf – son (age 22)<br />

Lornsten, Margaret L. – daughter (age 20)<br />

Kvanvig, Hjalmar – horticulturist (age 37)<br />

Kvanvig, Greta – spouse, housekeeper (age 32)<br />

Lawrence, Ernest – salesman (age 24)<br />

Lawrence, Cecilia – spouse, nurse (age 28)<br />

Ackerman, Cletys R. – bachelor, Disney carpenter<br />

(age 34)<br />

Phillips, Boyce – bachelor, engineer (age 32)<br />

Read, Edward (Ned) – bachelor, student (age <strong>18</strong>)<br />

Thanks to Ingrid Pohl and Janet Pohl-Schollenberg, Tom<br />

Ellis and Dr. Donald H. Keith, who helped me research<br />

this story.<br />

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astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

The author’s work on Middle Caicos to document <strong>the</strong> Loyalist-era plantations was inspired by Islander Ernest Forbes’s advice, “Just follow<br />

<strong>the</strong> chimneys.”<br />

Follow <strong>the</strong> Chimneys<br />

How I became an Islander.<br />

By Dr. Charlene Kozy<br />

Editor’s note: Dr. Charlene Kozy has been contributing articles to <strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> for nearly a<br />

decade. They range from a survey <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> various flags and emblems used by <strong>the</strong> country, to detailed<br />

histories <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> life and times <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>’ Loyalist plantation owners, to fond recollections <strong>of</strong><br />

her association with <strong>the</strong> women <strong>of</strong> Middle Caicos, and a tale <strong>of</strong> pirates and one <strong>of</strong> Caicos Cay’s original<br />

homeowners, Countess Helen Czernin.<br />

In <strong>the</strong> following memoir, Dr. Kozy reveals just how she became associated with <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />

<strong>Islands</strong> 40 years ago and how it became an important part <strong>of</strong> her career. It makes me honor and appreciate<br />

her contributions all <strong>the</strong> more. We look forward to more to come.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 67

astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

While teaching in a Nashville high school in <strong>the</strong> late<br />

1970s, I agreed to teach a new course. In so doing I suddenly<br />

became Tennessee’s first high school teacher <strong>of</strong><br />

anthropology, <strong>the</strong> study <strong>of</strong> human societies and cultures<br />

and <strong>the</strong>ir development. This led to participation in some<br />

homegrown archaeology, a specialty within anthropology.<br />

Centuries-old stone box graves pertaining to <strong>the</strong><br />

Native American Mississippian culture were discovered<br />

practically next door to <strong>the</strong> school during construction<br />

<strong>of</strong> a golf course. The find attracted <strong>the</strong> attention <strong>of</strong> Dr.<br />

William Bass from <strong>the</strong> University <strong>of</strong> Tennessee. Among<br />

many o<strong>the</strong>r things he taught my class how to determine<br />

<strong>the</strong> age and gender <strong>of</strong> a skeleton. Under his direction, my<br />

class reconstructed <strong>the</strong> stone box grave <strong>of</strong> a teenage boy<br />

just about <strong>the</strong> age <strong>of</strong> my students. Subsequently, it went<br />

to <strong>the</strong> State Museum.<br />

This experience ignited my desire to do something<br />

more challenging than just teaching. I combed through<br />

a pile <strong>of</strong> journals and advertisements for research volunteers<br />

and found a grant from Earthwatch, a non-pr<strong>of</strong>it<br />

international organization that provides human and financial<br />

support to scientific research projects. If accepted,<br />

<strong>the</strong> grant would fund me to go to <strong>the</strong> Caicos <strong>Islands</strong><br />

with a group from <strong>the</strong> University <strong>of</strong> Illinois. When I was<br />

accepted in 1977, I jumped at <strong>the</strong> opportunity without<br />

knowing exactly where I was going, what kind <strong>of</strong> work I<br />

would be doing, or whom I would be working for. I found<br />

myself spending six weeks with archaeologist Shaun<br />

Sullivan’s group studying <strong>the</strong> Lucayan Taino Indians and<br />

tediously unearthing <strong>the</strong>ir ancient artifacts. Dr. Sullivan<br />

was an excellent teacher on <strong>the</strong> ways <strong>of</strong> archaeology—but<br />

also an ex-Army Green Beret and hard taskmaster!<br />

We lived in <strong>the</strong> settlement <strong>of</strong> Bambarra on Middle<br />

Caicos and our meager “leisure time” was spent at<br />

Emmanuel Hall’s store. I listened wistfully with him and<br />

his wife Constance to a clear channel radio station from<br />

my hometown <strong>of</strong> Nashville, 1,400 miles away. I also<br />

learned to play dominoes on Saturday nights with Mr.<br />

Hall’s customers. Mrs. Constance was always <strong>the</strong>re finding<br />

things for <strong>the</strong> villagers, and being sure all were taken<br />

care <strong>of</strong>. I felt at home in <strong>the</strong> country store, in so many<br />

ways like my dad’s—<strong>the</strong> one I grew up in. I learned about<br />

<strong>the</strong> culture <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> people <strong>of</strong> Bambarra, and all <strong>the</strong> things<br />

we had in common.<br />


In 1977, Constance and Emmanuel Hall opened <strong>the</strong>ir home and shop in Bambarra, Middle Caicos to <strong>the</strong> members <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Earthwatch expedition.<br />

This experience gave <strong>the</strong> author a desire to learn more about <strong>the</strong> ruins <strong>of</strong> stone buildings, walls and chimneys she saw on <strong>the</strong> island.<br />

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Shaun kept his group busy. We walked to <strong>the</strong> dig<br />

site each morning and carried our finds back to our staging<br />

area each evening. Sometimes when <strong>the</strong> mosquitoes<br />

were heavy or light rain came, we worked in <strong>the</strong> shelter<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> cave at Conch Bar. As we rode in <strong>the</strong> bed <strong>of</strong> Carlin<br />

Forbes’s truck, I became fascinated by <strong>the</strong> overgrown<br />

ruins <strong>of</strong> stone buildings and walls we passed along <strong>the</strong><br />

way. They were like <strong>the</strong> walls and chimneys I was accustomed<br />

to seeing in Tennessee. The chimneys were large<br />

enough to stand in, reminding me <strong>of</strong> tales <strong>of</strong> early pioneers<br />

hiding within during Indian attacks. No one knew<br />

much about where <strong>the</strong> stone buildings came from except<br />

that <strong>the</strong>y were part <strong>of</strong> “history” and we were studying<br />

“pre-history.”<br />

When <strong>the</strong> Earthwatch expedition was over, I returned<br />

home and put my degrees in History to work, immersing<br />

myself in library research. I learned <strong>the</strong> ruins were<br />

<strong>the</strong> remains <strong>of</strong> plantations belonging to British subjects<br />

who were forced to leave <strong>the</strong>ir holdings in Georgia and<br />

Florida following <strong>the</strong> U.S. War <strong>of</strong> Independence. The<br />

British Government <strong>of</strong>fered <strong>the</strong>m large land grants in <strong>the</strong><br />

Bahamas and Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> as compensation<br />

Glen Freimuth and Shaun Sullivan were leaders <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> University <strong>of</strong><br />

Illinois groups investigating Lucayan Indian sites on Middle Caicos<br />

in 1977.<br />

for <strong>the</strong>ir losses in <strong>the</strong> newly created United States and in<br />

recognition <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir loyalty to <strong>the</strong> Crown. They became<br />

known as <strong>the</strong> American Loyalists.<br />

American historians wrote little about American<br />

Loyalists in textbooks. I could find an unflattering paragraph<br />

about <strong>the</strong>m here and <strong>the</strong>re that always included<br />

how <strong>the</strong>y were tarred and fea<strong>the</strong>red by “The Sons <strong>of</strong><br />

Liberty,” trying to make revolutionaries <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m. Knowing<br />

These are some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> participants in <strong>the</strong> 1977 excavation <strong>of</strong> Lucayan Indian sites on Middle Caicos. Emmanuel Hall and <strong>the</strong> author stand<br />

fourth and fifth from left.<br />


<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 69

astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />


This kitchen on <strong>the</strong> Haulover Plantation on Middle Caicos was well<br />

preserved, with a large fireplace and hooks to hang pots on. It was<br />

separate from <strong>the</strong> main house to avoid fire hazards.<br />

that <strong>the</strong>re was little interest in this group, I took my<br />

findings and thoughts to my former history teachers at<br />

Middle Tennessee State University (MTSU). One kind pr<strong>of</strong>essor,<br />

Dr. Fred Rolater, encouraged me to consider it a<br />

worthwhile study for a doctorate. He continued to be a<br />

mountain <strong>of</strong> support through my arduous road to becoming<br />

Dr. Charlene Kozy.<br />

But my quest was just beginning. I was accepted<br />

as a doctoral student at MTSU. I married Steve Kozy, a<br />

very patient and understanding man, who traveled with<br />

me to Nassau to read micr<strong>of</strong>ilm in <strong>the</strong>ir archives and to<br />

<strong>the</strong> University <strong>of</strong> Florida looking for knowledge <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Loyalists. Then we found a company in Orlando, Florida<br />

that was micr<strong>of</strong>ilming Nassau’s records. I purchased copies<br />

to read under less stressful circumstances. These films<br />

were records <strong>of</strong> land grants to exiled individual Loyalists<br />

and even gave <strong>the</strong>ir locations in <strong>the</strong> Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. Soon,<br />

I was no longer satisfied just to read about <strong>the</strong> Loyalists.<br />

Now, armed with my research, I wanted to return to <strong>the</strong><br />

Turks & Caicos to see if I could find <strong>the</strong> places where <strong>the</strong><br />

people I had been studying actually lived!<br />

But where to start? While staying at <strong>the</strong> Island Princess,<br />

one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> three hotels on Providenciales in those days,<br />

Steve and I met Tommy Coleman. Upon hearing my story,<br />

he suggested a trip to Parrot Cay to meet a woman who<br />

lived on a restored Loyalist plantation. Excitedly, we<br />

accepted <strong>the</strong> invitation and met Countess Helen Czernin<br />

who graciously invited us to stay in modernized slave<br />

quarters converted to guesthouses. This friendship<br />

endured for many years. Helen moved to Grand Turk and<br />

introduced me to influential people such as Mrs. Gre<strong>the</strong><br />

Seim and government <strong>of</strong>ficials who encouraged me and<br />

gave permission to study <strong>the</strong> ruins on Middle Caicos and<br />

even bring in field school students.<br />

I was no stranger on Middle Caicos, especially to <strong>the</strong><br />

people <strong>of</strong> Bambarra. I needed <strong>the</strong>ir help, and <strong>the</strong>y gave<br />

it freely. Their acceptance <strong>of</strong> my husband and me was<br />

unusually good. At first, we stayed in <strong>the</strong> “Government<br />

House,” which also served as a clinic, but after a few visits<br />

we were invited to stay with Islanders in <strong>the</strong>ir homes.<br />

There were no hotels in Bambarra! Elizabeth and Ernest<br />

Forbes housed two <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> three field schools we organized.<br />

Hon. Robert Hall, an <strong>of</strong>ficer in <strong>the</strong> government and<br />

son <strong>of</strong> Constance and Emmanuel Hall, visited <strong>the</strong> projects<br />

and gave <strong>the</strong> students history lessons about <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />

The next step was to locate <strong>the</strong> plantations. After I<br />

explained that my purpose for being <strong>the</strong>re was to locate<br />

<strong>the</strong> actual Loyalist plantations I had been studying,<br />

Constance Hall took me to <strong>the</strong> abandoned Ferguson plantation<br />

where she was born. A young teacher on <strong>the</strong> island,<br />

Valerie Hamilton, guided me to many o<strong>the</strong>r places.<br />

Mr. Alton Higgs guided us to <strong>the</strong> Haulover plantation<br />

near <strong>the</strong> settlement <strong>of</strong> Lorimers. I was immediately struck<br />

by <strong>the</strong> many similarities between Haulover and plantations<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> same period in <strong>the</strong> U.S. Built by Loyalist Dr.<br />

John Lorimer some time around <strong>18</strong>00, it had <strong>the</strong> spacious<br />

main house with obvious divisions <strong>of</strong> rooms including<br />

dining rooms, bedrooms and studies and was similar<br />

in many ways to <strong>the</strong> Hermitage, former U.S. President<br />

Andrew Jackson’s plantation near my home in Tennesse.<br />

Haulover’s separate kitchen was relatively well preserved,<br />

with a large fireplace and hooks to hang pots on. Having<br />

a separate kitchen from <strong>the</strong> main house was <strong>the</strong> common<br />

practice in America due to fire hazards. The builders <strong>of</strong><br />

Haulover followed suite. Haulover had slave cabins built<br />

70 www.timespub.tc

astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

beside fields ready to be cultivated, as did <strong>the</strong> Hermitage.<br />

An overseer’s house was nearby at Haulover, ready to<br />

receive instructions from <strong>the</strong> master. There were o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

similarities as well. Both men had villages named for<br />

<strong>the</strong>m: Old Hickory in Tennessee (Jackson’s sometimes<br />

nickname), and Lorimers on Middle Caicos. Dr. Lorimer’s<br />

gravesite lies nearby, just as Andrew Jackson’s grave is<br />

on <strong>the</strong> grounds at <strong>the</strong> Hermitage.<br />

With <strong>the</strong> help <strong>of</strong> Ernest Forbes, maps <strong>of</strong> plantation<br />

locations and detailed land and household appraisals, we<br />

correlated documented data with topography, landmarks<br />

and geographical features and identified more plantations.<br />

Ernest’s knowledge <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> and succinct<br />

observation—“Just follow <strong>the</strong> chimneys”—were invaluable.<br />

Searches for <strong>the</strong> plantations, now long overgrown<br />

in cactus and tropical vegetation, boiled down to looking<br />

for <strong>the</strong> tops <strong>of</strong> stone chimneys looming above <strong>the</strong><br />

dense bush. Machetes were <strong>the</strong> tool <strong>of</strong> choice in clearing<br />

<strong>the</strong> way to <strong>the</strong> old ruins so we could survey, map<br />

and measure <strong>the</strong>m. Our guide, Mr. Ernest, assured us <strong>the</strong><br />

vegetation would grow back within a few months. “It will<br />

soon be like you found it today.”<br />

In retrospect, my quest to “rediscover” <strong>the</strong> Caicos<br />

<strong>Islands</strong> Loyalists led to much more than I originally<br />

expected. I satisfied my quest to correlate <strong>the</strong> micr<strong>of</strong>ilm<br />

descriptions with actual places and structures on Middle<br />

Caicos and completed my dissertation, “A History <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Georgia Loyalists and <strong>the</strong> Plantation Period in <strong>the</strong> Turks<br />

and Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>,” earning a doctorate degree that led<br />

to working at Cumberland University for 21 years, serving<br />

as president for <strong>the</strong> last three. For some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> students<br />

I brought down for <strong>the</strong> field schools it was <strong>the</strong>ir first trip<br />

outside <strong>the</strong> United States and <strong>the</strong>ir first experience living<br />

in a different socio-political environment. Such real-world<br />

learning experiences are not possible in a university setting.<br />

Just as important are <strong>the</strong> long-lasting friendships<br />

forged with archaeological colleagues working in <strong>the</strong><br />

TCI such as Drs. William Keegan, Shaun Sullivan, Glen<br />

Friemuth, Lisabeth Carlson and Donald Keith. I have<br />

mourned <strong>the</strong> loss <strong>of</strong> friends in <strong>the</strong> Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> over<br />

<strong>the</strong> years, but I cherish <strong>the</strong> memories <strong>of</strong> time spent with<br />

<strong>the</strong>m. I am eternally grateful to Dr. Fred Rolater for his<br />

support. To rephrase John Kennedy’s statement to <strong>the</strong><br />

German people, “Ich bin ein Berliner”—“I am a Turks &<br />

Caicos Islander.” As one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir own, I salute <strong>the</strong> people<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. a<br />

This portrait depicts <strong>the</strong> author, Dr. Charlene Kozy, who taught and<br />

was a dean at Cumberland University for 21 years, serving as president<br />

for <strong>the</strong> last three years before she retired.<br />

Join <strong>the</strong> Museum<br />

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To join*, send name, address, email, and type <strong>of</strong><br />

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payable to “Turks & Caicos National Museum” to:<br />

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*For U.S. residents, support <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Museum is tax-deductible via<br />

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Keith, 39 Condesa Road, Santa Fe NM 87508, our affiliated institution<br />

and registered 501 (c) (3).<br />


<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 71

astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

Museum matters<br />

The turning point<br />

Hurricanes are nothing new, but this past season it was<br />

as if Mo<strong>the</strong>r Nature had painted a bull’s eye on <strong>the</strong><br />

Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>—with Grand Turk in <strong>the</strong> center!<br />

First, Irma, a Category 5 storm, struck <strong>the</strong> island on<br />

September 8 from <strong>the</strong> east, passing to <strong>the</strong> south with<br />

winds <strong>of</strong> <strong>18</strong>5 MPH, wrecking <strong>the</strong> power grid, destroying<br />

<strong>the</strong> reverse osmosis water system and taking out all<br />

communications with <strong>the</strong> exception <strong>of</strong> satellite phone.<br />

Grand Turk went dark. I was moved to tears as<br />

dozens <strong>of</strong> people—archaeologists, historians and<br />

o<strong>the</strong>r scientists who had worked in <strong>the</strong> TCI, U.S. servicemen<br />

who had been stationed <strong>the</strong>re, directors <strong>of</strong><br />

o<strong>the</strong>r Caribbean museums, and former ex-pat Museum<br />

employees—contacted me by telephone and e-mail,<br />

hoping for <strong>the</strong> best and asking what <strong>the</strong>y could do to<br />

help, sending checks and even volunteering to fly down<br />

to help with <strong>the</strong> clean-up!<br />

When news did start to trickle out it was not encouraging.<br />

The Museum’s two-story Science Building took<br />

<strong>the</strong> brunt <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> wind’s force, but in doing so sheltered<br />

Guinep House from <strong>the</strong> worst effects. Two weeks to<br />

<strong>the</strong> day later on September 22 , punching with winds<br />

over 170 MPH, Maria passed to <strong>the</strong> north, grazing <strong>the</strong><br />

island and delivering a backslap to <strong>the</strong> western shore,<br />

normally in <strong>the</strong> lee. Both buildings were damaged, but<br />

<strong>the</strong>re was nothing between <strong>the</strong> Guinep House and open<br />

sea except <strong>the</strong> tree for which it was named! The winds<br />

picked up <strong>the</strong> balcony ro<strong>of</strong> and grotesquely folded it<br />

back onto <strong>the</strong> main ro<strong>of</strong>, peeling back <strong>the</strong> eaves and<br />

exposing rafters in <strong>the</strong> process.<br />

It could have been a lot worse. The good news is<br />

that <strong>the</strong>re was no immediate damage to <strong>the</strong> collections<br />

or exhibits. The buildings kept <strong>the</strong>ir ro<strong>of</strong>s, but winddriven<br />

rainwater infiltrated, causing interior damage.<br />

Increasingly, we worried about <strong>the</strong> after-effects <strong>of</strong> this<br />

flooding as <strong>the</strong> weeks, <strong>the</strong>n months passed with frequent<br />

heavy rains and no electricity to run our climate<br />

control systems inside <strong>the</strong> buildings.<br />

Of course <strong>the</strong> Museum properties have always been<br />

heavily insured and structural repairs have already<br />

started, mingled with upgrades such as new security<br />

and fire-suppression systems and even our own 50 KW<br />

After <strong>the</strong> combined impact <strong>of</strong> Hurricanes Irma and Maria, <strong>the</strong> wall<br />

surrounding <strong>the</strong> Museum’s Botanical Garden collapsed.<br />

diesel generator. We are streng<strong>the</strong>ning our defenses<br />

against <strong>the</strong> vicissitudes <strong>of</strong> fate, but given <strong>the</strong> Museum’s<br />

location, <strong>the</strong>re is only so much we can do.<br />

Meanwhile, 70 miles away on Providenciales, after<br />

Irma <strong>the</strong> Museum’s Development Office and even <strong>the</strong><br />

thatch-ro<strong>of</strong>ed Caicos Heritage House suffered so little<br />

damage <strong>the</strong>re was no need to file an insurance claim—<br />

and Maria did no damage at all! Power, telephone and<br />

Internet were restored within a couple <strong>of</strong> days and<br />

Candianne Williams, <strong>the</strong> Museum’s representative on<br />

Provo, made sure <strong>the</strong> Village at Grace Bay campus was<br />

up and running by mid-October.<br />

Hurricane Ike hit <strong>the</strong> TCI on September 7, 2008. It<br />

took <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong>s <strong>of</strong>f 80% <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> buildings on Grand Turk.<br />

We thought it was a once-in-a-century storm, yet here<br />

we are only nine years later, recovering from two storms<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> same ferocity only two weeks apart. At present,<br />

all <strong>the</strong> Museum’s eggs are in one basket 64 feet from<br />

<strong>the</strong> North Atlantic Ocean. Mo<strong>the</strong>r Nature is telling us,<br />

“The climate is changing. Sea levels are rising. Storms<br />

are becoming more intense. It’s time to move!” Already,<br />

long-time Museum supporters have made donations<br />

earmarked for expansion <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Museum’s facilities on<br />

Providenciales in preparation for moving our most vulnerable<br />

collections <strong>the</strong>re. You can’t argue with Mo<strong>the</strong>r<br />

Nature. All you can do is heed her warnings, hope for<br />

<strong>the</strong> best, and prepare for <strong>the</strong> worst! a<br />

Dr. Donald H. Keith<br />


72 www.timespub.tc

astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

Museum matters<br />

Who’s who<br />

In August <strong>2017</strong>, I received a phone call from Adrienne<br />

Antoinette Lightbourn Butz who just finished transcribing<br />

The Letter Book <strong>of</strong> Captain John Lightbourn Sr. and<br />

William Astwood. She found <strong>the</strong> original manuscript,<br />

more than 200 years old and quite fragile, in 2012<br />

among old papers passed on to her after <strong>the</strong> death <strong>of</strong><br />

her parents. It took Ms. Butz more than a year <strong>of</strong> tedious<br />

work to transcribe <strong>the</strong> hand-written manuscripts into a<br />

readable document.<br />

The letters are between John Lightbourn, a<br />

Bermudan in <strong>the</strong> salt trade in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />

<strong>Islands</strong>, and his nephew in Bermuda, William Astwood.<br />

Collections <strong>of</strong> original personal correspondence like<br />

this are very rare and invaluable to historians for what<br />

<strong>the</strong>y reveal about trade, commerce, family relationships<br />

and social mores <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> times. The Museum now has<br />

two copies <strong>of</strong> this limited-edition book in our library,<br />

but should you want one yourself, <strong>the</strong>y are available<br />

through Amazon at: https://www.amazon.com/<br />

Letter-Captain-Lightbourn-William-Astwood-ebook/dp/<br />

B0773WC5FT.<br />

The book reads like a “Who’s Who” among land<br />

owners and salt merchants <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks <strong>Islands</strong> with<br />

family names like Frith, Dickenson, Tucker, Dunscomb,<br />

Bascombe, Gibbs and Darrell appearing on virtually<br />

every page. The letters will aid <strong>the</strong> Museum in its<br />

ongoing research into familial connections between<br />

Bermuda and <strong>the</strong> Turks <strong>Islands</strong>. I want to thank Ms.<br />

Butz for donating <strong>the</strong>se books to <strong>the</strong> Museum, and<br />

admire her patience and determination in deciphering<br />

and transcribing <strong>the</strong>se hand-written letters written<br />

more than two centuries ago. a<br />

Pat Saxton<br />

From <strong>the</strong> Director<br />

The Turks & Caicos National Museum suffered a lot <strong>of</strong><br />

damage from Hurricanes Irma and Maria. It was not<br />

catastrophic, but it will take many months to get back<br />

to normal. We intend to re-evaluate <strong>the</strong> exhibits and<br />

improve <strong>the</strong> Museum and Science Building, making<br />

<strong>the</strong>m more user-friendly for visitors and Islanders alike.<br />

This is a book <strong>of</strong> transcribed letters between John Lightbourn and<br />

his nephew in Bermuda, written more than 200 years ago.<br />

So out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> storm comes new ideas. I personally<br />

have to thank a few people. These persons, like<br />

myself, were also dealing with <strong>the</strong> destruction <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

homes. Our Chairman Seamus Day was with me every<br />

step <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> way to save <strong>the</strong> archives and exhibits. He<br />

also secured <strong>the</strong> financing for <strong>the</strong> new generator. Lisa<br />

Talbot carried numerous books from our research<br />

library along with gift shop items to safety, and pushed<br />

buckets <strong>of</strong> water out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> workshop and dry lab. My<br />

husband Neil pulled up soaked carpet squares, carried<br />

out ruined furniture and kept me calm. Conrad Baron<br />

cleared <strong>the</strong> site not once, but twice, and <strong>the</strong>n put our<br />

garden back in order. As <strong>the</strong>y say, it takes a village—or<br />

just some very dedicated folks in that village who love<br />

<strong>the</strong> Museum. Thank you! a<br />

Pat Saxton<br />


<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 73

faces and places<br />

Junior Achievement <strong>2017</strong> Innovation Camp<br />

Just after Hurricane Irma, <strong>the</strong> Junior Achievement <strong>2017</strong> Innovation Camp took place simultaneously in Grand Turk<br />

and Providenciales. In Grand Turk, 59 students ga<strong>the</strong>red at <strong>the</strong> H.J. Robinson High School, breaking down into 12<br />

teams <strong>of</strong> 14- to <strong>18</strong> year- olds. Seventy-seven students from numerous high schools around Providenciales ga<strong>the</strong>red<br />

at The Shore Club breaking into 11 teams. For this year’s challenge, both groups were asked to find a way to prepare<br />

for and mitigate <strong>the</strong> effects <strong>of</strong> a hurricane through a full day <strong>of</strong> brainstorming and presentations. Judges were representatives<br />

from Scotiabank and <strong>the</strong> Department <strong>of</strong> Disaster Management, considering content, creativity, quality and<br />

team spirit. The winning Grand Turk team, Forecast 5, proposed a mobile app whose main purpose was to provide<br />

hurricane updates and preparedness tips, serving as a wea<strong>the</strong>r radar, friend tracker and First Aid assistant. The winning<br />

Providenciales team, 649 Aerial System, proposed a drone damage assessment tool. The system would also<br />

include an app that not only provided real-time damage assessment, but also hurricane updates and preparedness<br />

tips. Team Forecast 5 was comprised <strong>of</strong> Kendrea Gelcius, Llewandra Basden, Raynae Myers, Samantha Marcellus and<br />

Angelia Ariza. Both teams will face <strong>of</strong>f in January 20<strong>18</strong> with ano<strong>the</strong>r challenge. The winner will represent <strong>the</strong> Turks<br />

& Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> in <strong>the</strong> regional Innovation Camp Challenge hosted by JA Americas. Junior Achievement is an international<br />

non-pr<strong>of</strong>it organization focused on inspiring and motivating kids to be ambitious and goal oriented. The<br />

Junior Achievement Innovation Camp is regionally funded through a partnership with Scotiabank.<br />

Story By Claire Parrish ~ Photos By Angela Musgrove<br />

Team 649 Aerial System from Providenciales includes (at center, from left): Rasheed John, Rodisha Johnson, Anthonique Asamoah, Zaria<br />

Ingham, Ernelle Hall and Robria Clarke.<br />

74 www.timespub.tc

about <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong><br />

Map provided courtesy Wavey Line Publishing. Their navigation charts and decorative and historic maps <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, <strong>the</strong><br />

Bahamas, and Hispaniola are available in shops throughout <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. Visit www.waveylinepublishing.com.<br />

Where we are<br />

The Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> lie some 575 miles sou<strong>the</strong>ast<br />

<strong>of</strong> Miami — approximately 1 1/2 hours flying time — with<br />

<strong>the</strong> Bahamas about 30 miles to <strong>the</strong> northwest and <strong>the</strong><br />

Dominican Republic some 100 miles to <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>ast.<br />

The country consists <strong>of</strong> two island groups separated<br />

by <strong>the</strong> 22-mile wide Columbus Passage. To <strong>the</strong> west are<br />

<strong>the</strong> Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>: West Caicos, Providenciales, North<br />

Caicos, Middle Caicos, East Caicos, and South Caicos. To<br />

<strong>the</strong> east are <strong>the</strong> Turks <strong>Islands</strong>: Grand Turk and Salt Cay.<br />

The Turks & Caicos total 166 square miles <strong>of</strong> land<br />

area on eight islands and 40 small cays. The country’s<br />

population is approximately 32,000.<br />

Getting here<br />

There are international airports on Grand Turk, North<br />

Caicos, Providenciales, and South Caicos, with domestic<br />

airports on all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> islands except East Caicos.<br />

At this time, all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> major international carriers<br />

arrive and depart from Providenciales International<br />

Airport. American Airlines flies from Miami, Charlotte,<br />

Boston, Dallas, New York/JFK and Philadelphia. JetBlue<br />

Airways <strong>of</strong>fers service from Fort Lauderdale, New York/JFK<br />

and Boston. Southwest Airlines travels to Fort Lauderdale.<br />

Delta Airlines flies from Atlanta and New York/JFK. United<br />

Airlines flies from Newark, Washington, DC and Chicago.<br />

WestJet travels from Toronto. Air Canada <strong>of</strong>fer flights<br />

from Toronto and Montreal. British Airways travels from<br />

London/Gatwick via Antigua.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 75

Bahamasair flies to Nassau on Thursday and Sunday;<br />

InterCaribbean Airways travels daily except Thursday.<br />

InterCaribbean Airways and Caicos Express travel to Haiti<br />

daily, while InterCaribbean Airways flies to <strong>the</strong> Dominican<br />

Republic daily (except Wednesday); to Jamaica daily,<br />

and to Puerto Rico on Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and<br />

Sunday. InterCaribbean Airways also travels to Santiago,<br />

Cuba on Monday, Wednesday and Friday. (Schedules are<br />

current as <strong>of</strong> December <strong>2017</strong> and subject to change.)<br />

Inter-island service is provided by InterCaribbean<br />

Airways, Caicos Express Airways, and Global Airways. Sea<br />

and air freight services operate from Florida.<br />

Language<br />

English.<br />

Time zone<br />

Atlantic Standard Time (AST) observed year-round.<br />

Currency<br />

The United States dollar. The Treasury also issues a Turks<br />

& Caicos crown and quarter. Travellers cheques in U.S.<br />

dollars are widely accepted and o<strong>the</strong>r currency can be<br />

changed at local banks. American Express, VISA, and<br />

MasterCard are welcomed at many locations.<br />

Climate<br />

The average year-round temperature is 83ºF (28ºC). The<br />

hottest months are September and October, when <strong>the</strong><br />

temperature can reach 90 to 95ºF (33 to 35ºC). However,<br />

<strong>the</strong> consistent easterly trade winds temper <strong>the</strong> heat and<br />

keep life comfortable.<br />

Casual resort and leisure wear is accepted attire for<br />

daytime; light sweaters or jackets may be necessary on<br />

some breezy evenings. It’s wise to wear protective clothing<br />

and a sunhat and use waterpro<strong>of</strong> sunscreen when out<br />

in <strong>the</strong> tropical sun.<br />

Entry requirements<br />

Passport. A valid onward or return ticket is also required.<br />

Customs formalities<br />

Visitors may bring in duty free for <strong>the</strong>ir own use one carton<br />

<strong>of</strong> cigarettes or cigars, one bottle <strong>of</strong> liquor or wine,<br />

and some perfume. The importation <strong>of</strong> all firearms including<br />

those charged with compressed air without prior<br />

approval in writing from <strong>the</strong> Commissioner <strong>of</strong> Police is<br />

strictly forbidden. Spear guns, Hawaiian slings, controlled<br />

drugs, and pornography are also illegal.<br />

76 www.timespub.tc

Returning residents may bring in $400 worth <strong>of</strong><br />

merchandise per person duty free. A duty <strong>of</strong> 10% to<br />

60% is charged on most imported goods along with a<br />

7% customs processing fee and forms a major source <strong>of</strong><br />

government revenue.<br />

Transportation<br />

A valid driver’s license from home is suitable when renting<br />

vehicles. A government tax <strong>of</strong> 12% is levied on all<br />

rental contracts. (Insurance is extra.) Driving is on <strong>the</strong><br />

left-hand side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> road, with traffic flow controlled by<br />

round-abouts at major junctions. Please don’t drink and<br />

drive! Taxis are abundant throughout <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> and<br />

many resorts <strong>of</strong>fer shuttle service between popular visitor<br />

areas. Scooter, motorcycle, and bicycle rentals are<br />

also available.<br />

Telecommunications<br />

FLOW Ltd. provides land lines and superfast broadband<br />

Internet service. Mobile service is on a LTE 4G network,<br />

including pre and post-paid cellular phones. Most resorts<br />

and some stores and restaurants <strong>of</strong>fer wireless Internet<br />

connection. Digicel operates mobile networks, with<br />

a full suite <strong>of</strong> LTE 4G service. FLOW is <strong>the</strong> local carrier<br />

for CDMA roaming on US networks such as Verizon and<br />

Sprint. North American visitors with GSM cellular handsets<br />

and wireless accounts with AT&T or Cingular can<br />

arrange international roaming.<br />

Electricity<br />

120/240 volts, 60 Hz, suitable for all U.S. appliances.<br />

Departure tax<br />

US $20 for all persons two years and older, payable in<br />

cash or traveller’s cheques. It is typically built into <strong>the</strong><br />

cost <strong>of</strong> your ticket.<br />

Courier service<br />

Delivery service is provided by FedEx, with <strong>of</strong>fices on<br />

Providenciales and Grand Turk, and DHL. UPS service is<br />

limited to incoming delivery.<br />

Postal service<br />

The Post Office and Philatelic Bureau in Providenciales is<br />

located downtown in Butterfield Square. In Grand Turk,<br />

<strong>the</strong> Post Office is on Front Street, with <strong>the</strong> Philatelic<br />

Bureau on Church Folly. The <strong>Islands</strong> are known for <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

varied and colorful stamp issues.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 77

Media<br />

Multi-channel satellite television is received from <strong>the</strong> U.S.<br />

and Canada and transmitted via cable or over <strong>the</strong> air.<br />

Local station WIV-TV broadcasts on Channel 4 and Island<br />

EyeTV on Channel 5. People’s Television <strong>of</strong>fers 75 digitally<br />

transmitted television stations, along with local news<br />

and talk shows on Channel 8. There are also a number <strong>of</strong><br />

local radio stations, magazines, and newspapers.<br />

Medical services<br />

There are no endemic tropical diseases in TCI. There are<br />

large, modern hospitals on Grand Turk and Providenciales.<br />

Both hospitals <strong>of</strong>fer a full range <strong>of</strong> services including:<br />

24/7 emergency room, operating <strong>the</strong>aters, diagnostic<br />

imaging, maternity suites, dialysis suites, blood bank,<br />

physio<strong>the</strong>rapy, and dentistry.<br />

In addition, several general practitioners operate in<br />

<strong>the</strong> country, and <strong>the</strong>re is a recompression chamber, along<br />

with a number <strong>of</strong> private pharmacies.<br />

Barefoot Palms Ad:Layout 1 8/19/16 1:16 PM Page 1<br />

www.BarefootPalmsVilla.com<br />

Barefoot Palms<br />

3 bedroom, 2 bath villa<br />

Gorgeous pool, patio, tiki bar<br />

Blocks om <strong>the</strong> ocean, walk to beach,<br />

minutes drive to golf, supermarket,<br />

shopping and restaurants<br />

$2450-$3850 weekly; flexible dates<br />

Immigration<br />

A resident’s permit is required to live in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. A<br />

work permit and business license are also required to<br />

work and/or establish a business. These are generally<br />

granted to those <strong>of</strong>fering skills, experience, and qualifications<br />

not widely available on <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. Priority is given<br />

to enterprises that will provide employment and training<br />

for T&C Islanders.<br />

Government/Legal system<br />

TCI is a British Crown colony. There is a Queen-appointed<br />

Governor, HE Dr. John Freeman. He presides over an executive<br />

council formed by <strong>the</strong> elected local government.<br />

Lady Sharlene Cartwright-Robinson is <strong>the</strong> country’s first<br />

woman premier, leading a majority People’s Democratic<br />

Movement (PDM) House <strong>of</strong> Assembly.<br />

The legal system is based upon English Common<br />

Law and administered by a resident Chief Justice, Chief<br />

Magistrate, and Deputy Magistrates. Judges <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Court<br />

<strong>of</strong> Appeal visit <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> twice a year and <strong>the</strong>re is a final<br />

Right <strong>of</strong> Appeal to Her Majesty’s Privy Council in London.<br />

Taxes<br />

There are currently no direct taxes on ei<strong>the</strong>r income<br />

or capital for individuals or companies. There are no<br />

exchange controls. Indirect taxation comprises customs<br />

duties and fees, stamp duty, taxes on accommodations,<br />

restaurants, vehicle rentals, o<strong>the</strong>r services and gasoline,<br />

as well as business license fees and departure taxes.<br />

78 www.timespub.tc

Economy<br />

Historically, TCI’s economy relied on <strong>the</strong> export <strong>of</strong><br />

salt. Currently, tourism, <strong>the</strong> <strong>of</strong>fshore finance industry,<br />

and fishing generate <strong>the</strong> most private sector income.<br />

The <strong>Islands</strong>’ main exports are lobster and conch, with<br />

<strong>the</strong> world’s first commercial conch farm operating on<br />

Providenciales. Practically all consumer goods and foodstuffs<br />

are imported.<br />

The Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> are recognised as an<br />

important <strong>of</strong>fshore financial centre, <strong>of</strong>fering services<br />

such as company formation, <strong>of</strong>fshore insurance, banking,<br />

trusts, limited partnerships, and limited life companies.<br />

The Financial Services Commission regulates <strong>the</strong> industry<br />

and spearheads <strong>the</strong> development <strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong>fshore legislation.<br />

People<br />

Citizens <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> are termed<br />

“Belongers” and are primarily descendants <strong>of</strong> African<br />

slaves who were brought to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> to work on <strong>the</strong><br />

salt ponds and cotton plantations. The country’s large<br />

expatriate population includes Canadians, Americans,<br />

Brits and Europeans, along with Haitians, Jamaicans,<br />

Dominicans, Bahamians, Indians, and Filipinos.<br />

Churches<br />

Churches are <strong>the</strong> center <strong>of</strong> community life and <strong>the</strong>re<br />

are many faiths represented in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>, including:<br />

Adventist, Anglican, Assembly <strong>of</strong> God, Baha’i,<br />

Baptist, Catholic, Church <strong>of</strong> God <strong>of</strong> Prophecy, Episcopal,<br />

Faith Tabernacle Church <strong>of</strong> God, Jehovah’s Witnesses,<br />

Methodist and Pentecostal. Visitors are always welcome.<br />

Pets<br />

Incoming pets must have an import permit, veterinary<br />

health certificate, vaccination certificate, and lab test<br />

results to be submitted at <strong>the</strong> port <strong>of</strong> entry to obtain<br />

clearance from <strong>the</strong> TCI Department <strong>of</strong> Agriculture, Animal<br />

Health Services.<br />

National symbols<br />

The National Bird is <strong>the</strong> Brown pelican (Pelecanus occidentalis).<br />

The National Plant is Island hea<strong>the</strong>r (Limonium<br />

bahamense) found nowhere else in <strong>the</strong> world. The<br />

National Tree is <strong>the</strong> Caribbean pine (Pinus caribaea var.<br />

bahamensis). The National Costume consists <strong>of</strong> white cotton<br />

dresses tied at <strong>the</strong> waist for women and simple shirts<br />

and loose pants for men, with straw hats. Colors representing<br />

<strong>the</strong> various islands are displayed on <strong>the</strong> sleeves<br />

and bases. The National Song is “This Land <strong>of</strong> Ours,” by<br />

urgent care • family medicine<br />




• • •<br />

(649) 941-5252<br />

on site pharmacy<br />

located adjacent graceway gourmet<br />

Focused on <strong>the</strong> patient<br />

The way medicine should be practiced<br />

twr ad <strong>Times</strong> Fall 1/4_Layout 1 8/11/17 7:12 PM Page 1<br />

Tradewinds Radio<br />

on <strong>the</strong> dial at FM104.5<br />

104.5<br />

Enjoy.<br />


Call 431 7527<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 79

㈀ 㠀<br />

吀 甀 爀 欀 猀 愀 渀 搀 䌀 愀 椀 挀 漀 猀 刀 攀 猀 攀 爀 瘀 愀 琀 椀 漀 渀 猀 椀 猀 礀 漀 甀 爀 洀 漀 猀 琀 甀 瀀 搀 愀 琀 攀 搀<br />

爀 攀 猀 漀 甀 爀 挀 攀 Ⰰ 愀 渀 搀 戀 攀 猀 琀 瀀 氀 愀 挀 攀 琀 漀 最 攀 琀 最 爀 攀 愀 琀 搀 攀 愀 氀 猀 愀 渀 搀 椀 猀 氀 愀 渀 搀 搀 椀 猀 挀 漀 甀 渀 琀 猀 ℀<br />

䄀 爀 攀 礀 漀 甀 愀 䰀 甀 砀 甀 爀 礀 吀 爀 愀 瘀 攀 氀 䄀 搀 瘀 椀 猀 漀 爀 㼀 䘀 椀 渀 搀 漀 甀 琀 洀 漀 爀 攀<br />

愀 戀 漀 甀 琀 漀 甀 爀 渀 攀 眀 猀 攀 爀 瘀 椀 挀 攀 ᰠ 䰀 甀 砀 甀 爀 礀 䔀 砀 瀀 攀 爀 椀 攀 渀 挀 攀 猀 ᴠ<br />

<strong>the</strong> late Rev. E.C. Howell, PhD. Peas and Hominy (Grits)<br />

with Dry Conch is revered as symbolic island fare.<br />

Going green<br />

TCI Waste Disposal Services currently <strong>of</strong>fers recycling services<br />

through weekly collection <strong>of</strong> recyclable aluminum,<br />

glass, and plastic. The TCI Environmental Club is spearheading<br />

a campaign to eliminate single-use plastic bags.<br />

Do your part by using a cloth bag whenever possible.<br />

Keep TCI “Beautiful by Nature” by not littering!<br />

Recreation<br />

Sporting activities are centered around <strong>the</strong> water. Visitors<br />

can choose from deep-sea, reef, or bonefishing, sailing,<br />

glass-bottom boat and semi-sub excursions, windsurfing,<br />

waterskiing, parasailing, sea kayaking, snorkelling,<br />

scuba diving, kiteboarding, stand up paddleboarding,<br />

and beachcombing. Pristine reefs, abundant marine life,<br />

and excellent visibility make TCI a world-class diving<br />

destination. Tennis and golf—<strong>the</strong>re is an eighteen hole<br />

championship course on Providenciales—are also popular.<br />

The <strong>Islands</strong> are an ecotourist’s paradise. Visitors can<br />

enjoy unspoilt wilderness and native flora and fauna in<br />

thirty-three national parks, nature reserves, sanctuaries,<br />

and areas <strong>of</strong> historical interest. The National Trust<br />

provides trail guides to several hiking trails, as well as<br />

guided tours <strong>of</strong> major historical sites. There is an excellent<br />

national museum on Grand Turk, with an auxillary<br />

branch on Providenciales. A scheduled ferry and a selection<br />

<strong>of</strong> tour operators make it easy to take day trips to <strong>the</strong><br />

outer islands.<br />

O<strong>the</strong>r land-based activities include bicycling, horseback<br />

riding, and football (soccer). Personal trainers are<br />

available to motivate you, working out <strong>of</strong> several fitness<br />

centres. You will also find a variety <strong>of</strong> spa and body treatment<br />

services.<br />

Nightlife includes local bands playing island music<br />

at bars and restaurants and some nightclubs. There is<br />

a casino on Providenciales, along with many electronic<br />

gaming parlours. Stargazing is extraordinary!<br />

Shoppers will find Caribbean paintings, T-shirts,<br />

sports and beachwear, and locally made handicrafts,<br />

including straw work and conch crafts. Duty free outlets<br />

sell liquor, jewellery, watches, perfume, lea<strong>the</strong>r goods,<br />

crystal, china, cameras, electronics, brand-name clothing<br />

and accessories, along with Cuban cigars. a<br />

80 www.timespub.tc

where to stay<br />

In <strong>the</strong> wake <strong>of</strong> Hurricanes Irma and Maria, especially on <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong><br />

beyond Providenciales, be sure to confirm that <strong>the</strong> property is open<br />

prior to making travel plans.<br />

Grand Turk<br />

range <strong>of</strong> daily rates<br />

US$ (subject to change)<br />

number <strong>of</strong> units<br />

major credit cards<br />

restaurant<br />

bar<br />

air conditioning<br />

phone in unit<br />

television in unit<br />

kitchen in unit<br />

laundry service<br />

pool<br />

on <strong>the</strong> beach<br />

H<br />

The Arches <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk – Tel 649 946 2941 190–210 4 • • • • • • •<br />

Bohio Dive Resort – Tel 649 946 2135 • Web www.bohioresort.com 170–230 16 • • • • • • • •<br />

Crabtree Apartments – Tel 978 270 1698 • Web www.GrandTurkVacationRental.com 210–250 3 • • • • • •<br />

Grand Turk Inn – Tel 649 946 2827 • Web www.grandturkinn.com 250–300 5 • • • • • • •<br />

Island House – Tel 649 946 1519/232 5514 • Web www.islandhouse.tc 110–<strong>18</strong>5 8 • • • • • • •<br />

Manta House – Tel 649 946 1111 • Web www.grandturk-mantahouse.com 110–130 5 • • • • • • •<br />

Osprey Beach Hotel – Tel 649 946 2666 • Web www.ospreybeachhotel.com 90–225 37 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Pelican House – Tel 649 246 6797 • Web www.pelicanhousegrandturk.com 110-130 3 • • • • •<br />

Salt Raker Inn – Tel 649 946 2260 • Web www.saltrakerinn.com 55–140 13 • • • • • • •<br />

Solomon Porches Guesthouse – Tel 649 946 2776/241 2937 • Fax 649 946 1984 75–100 3 • •<br />

Middle Caicos<br />

H<br />

Blue Horizon Resort – Tel 649 946 6141 • Web bhresort.com 265–400 7 • • • • • • • • •<br />

North Caicos<br />

H<br />

Bottle Creek Lodge – Tel 649 946 7080 • Web www.bottlecreeklodge.com 155–240 3 • •<br />

Caicos Beach Condominiums – Tel 649 241 4778/786 338 9264 • Web www.caicosbeachcondos.com 159–299 8 • • • • • • • •<br />

Cedar Palms Suites – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4<strong>18</strong>6 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 250–300 3 • • • • • • • • •<br />

Flamingo’s Nest – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4<strong>18</strong>6 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 175–340 2 • • • • • • • •<br />

Hollywood Beach Suites - Tel 800 551 2256/649 231 1020 • Web www.hollywoodbeachsuites.com 200–235 4 • • • • • •<br />

JoAnne’s Bed & Breakfast - Tel 649 946 7301 • Web www.turksandcaicos.tc/joannesbnb 80–120 4 • • • •<br />

Palmetto Villa – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4<strong>18</strong>6 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 225–250 1 • • • • • • • •<br />

Pelican Beach Hotel - Tel 649 946 7112/877 774 5486 • Web www.pelicanbeach.tc 125–165 14 • • • • • • • •<br />

Pine Cay<br />

H<br />

The Meridian Club - Tel 649 946 7758/866 286 7993 • Web www.meridianclub.com 800–1300 13 • • • • • • •<br />

Parrot Cay<br />

H<br />

COMO Parrot Cay Resort & Spa - Tel 649 946 7788/855 PARROTCAY • Web www.parrotcay.com 550–2850 65 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Providenciales<br />

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Airport Inn – Tel 649 941 3514 • Web www.airportinntci.com. 140 <strong>18</strong> • • • • • • •<br />

The Alexandra Resort & Spa – Tel 800 704 9424/649 946 5807 • Web www.alexandraresort.com 280–420 99 • • • • • • • • •<br />

The Atrium Resort – Tel 888 592 7885/649 333 0101 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>atriumresorttci.com 159–410 30 • • • • • • • •<br />

Amanyara – Tel 866 941 8133/649 941 8133 • Web www.aman.com 1000–2100 73 • • • • • • • •<br />

Aquamarine Beach Houses – Tel 649 231 4535/905 556 0278 • www.aquamarinebeachhouses.com 200–850 24 • • • • • • • •<br />

Beaches Resort Villages & Spa – Tel 888-BEACHES/649 946 8000 • Web www.beaches.com 325–390AI 758 • • • • • • • • •<br />

Beach House Turks & Caicos – Tel 649 946 5800 • Web www.beachchousetci.com 532–638 21 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

BE Beach Enclave – Tel 888 434 3981 • Web www.beachenclave.com see web 24 • • • • • • • •<br />

Blue Haven Resort & Marina – Tel 855 832 7667/649 946 9900 • Web www.bluehaventci.com 250–650 51 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Caribbean Paradise Inn – Tel 649 946 5020 • Web www.caribbeanparadiseinn.com 162–225 17 • • • • • • • •<br />

Club Med Turkoise – Tel 800 258 2633/649 946 5500 • Web www.clubmed.com 120–225 290 • • • • • • • • •<br />

Coral Gardens on Grace Bay – Tel 649 941 3713/800 532 8536 • Web www.coralgardens.com 199-449 32 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Gansevoort Turks + Caicos – Tel 888 844 5986/649 941 7555 • Web www.gansevoorttc.com 315–720 91 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Grace Bay Club - Tel 800 946 5757/649 946 5050 • Web www.gracebayclub.com 650–1750 75 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Grace Bay Suites – Tel 649 941 7447 • Web www.GraceBaySuites.com 99–195 24 • • • • • • • •<br />

Harbour Club Villas – Tel 649 941 5748/305 434 8568 • Web www.harbourclubvillas.com 210–240 6 • • • • •<br />

The Inn at Grace Bay – Tel 649 432 8633 • Web www.innatgracebay.com 179–379 48 • • • • • • •<br />

Kokomo Botanical Gardens - Tel 649 941 3121• Web www.aliveandwellresorts.com 169–299 16 • • • • •<br />

Le Vele - Tel 649 941 8800/888 272 4406 • Web www.leveleresort.com 303–630 22 • • • • • • • •<br />

La Vista Azul – Tel 649 946 8522/866 519 96<strong>18</strong> • Web www.lvaresort.com 215–375 78 • • • • • • •<br />

The Lodgings – Tel 649 941 8107/242 6722 • Web www.hotelturksandcaicos.com 175–255 15 • • • • • •<br />

Neptune Villas – Tel 649 331 4328 • Web www.neptunevillastci.com 150–400 10 • • • • • • • • •<br />

Northwest Point Resort • Tel 649 941 5133 • Web www.northwestpointresort.com 196–550 49 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Ocean Club Resorts - Tel 800 457 8787/649 946 5880 • Web www.oceanclubresorts.com <strong>18</strong>0–690 191 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

The Palms Turks & Caicos – Tel 649 946 8666/866 877 7256 • Web <strong>the</strong>palmstc.com 595–1700 72 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 81

H<br />

H<br />

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where to stay<br />

range <strong>of</strong> daily rates<br />

US$ (subject to change)<br />

number <strong>of</strong> units<br />

major credit cards<br />

restaurant<br />

bar<br />

air conditioning<br />

phone in unit<br />

television in unit<br />

kitchen in unit<br />

laundry service<br />

pool<br />

on <strong>the</strong> beach<br />

Providenciales (continued)<br />

Pelican Nest Villa – Tel 649 342 5731 • Web www.pelicannest.tc 429–857 2 • • • • • •<br />

Point Grace – Tel 649 946 5096/888 209 5582 • Web www.pointgrace.com 424–1515 27 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Ports <strong>of</strong> Call Resort – Tel 888 678 3483/649 946 8888 • Web www.ports<strong>of</strong>callresort.com 135–210 99 • • • • • • •<br />

Queen Angel Resort – Tel 649 941 8771 • Web www.queenangelresort.com 150–575 56 • • • • • • • • •<br />

Reef Residence at Grace Bay – Tel 800 532 8536 • Web www.reefresidence.com 275-385 24 • • • • • • •<br />

The Regent Grand – Tel 877 288 3206/649 941 7770 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>regentgrand.com 495–1100 50 • • • • • • • • •<br />

Royal West Indies Resort – Tel 800 332 4203/649 946 5004 • Web www.royalwestindies.com <strong>18</strong>0–695 92 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

The Sands at Grace Bay – Tel 877 777 2637/649 946 5199 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>sandsresort.com 175–675 116 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Seven Stars Resort & Spa – Tel 866 570 7777/649 333 7777 – Web www.sevenstarsgracebay.com 365–2400 165 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

The Shore Club – Tel 649 339 8000 – Web www.<strong>the</strong>shoreclubtc.com 465–4650 148 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Sibonné Beach Hotel – Tel 888 570 2861/649 946 5547 • Web www.sibonne.com 110–375 29 • • • • • • • •<br />

The Somerset on Grace Bay – Tel 649 339 5900/888 386 8770 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>somerset.com 350–1300 53 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Turtle Cove Inn – Tel 800 887 0477/649 946 4203 • Web www.turtlecoveinn.com 85–<strong>18</strong>0 30 • • • • • • • •<br />

The Tuscany – Tel 866 359 6466/649 941 4667 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>tuscanyresort.com 975–1300 30 • • • • • • • •<br />

The Venetian – Tel 877 277 4793/649 941 3512 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>venetiangracebay.com 695–1175 27 • • • • • • • •<br />

Villa del Mar – Tel 877 345 4890/649 941 5160 • Web www.yourvilladelmar.com 190–440 42 • • • • • • •<br />

Villa Mani – Tel 649 431 4444 • Web www.villamanitci.com See Web/AE 6 • • • • • • •<br />

Villa Renaissance - Tel 649 941 5300/877 285 8764 • Web www.villarenaissance.com 295–650 36 • • • • • • • • •<br />

The Villas at Blue Mountain – Tel 649 941 4255 • Web www.villasatbluemountain.com 1200–2500 3 • • • • • • • •<br />

West Bay Club – Tel 855 749 5750/649 946 8550 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>westbayclub.com 235–1163 46 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Windsong – Tel 649 333 7700/800 WINDSONG • Web www.windsongresort.com 275–925 50 • • • • • • • • •<br />

The Yacht Club – Tel 649 946 4656 • Web www.yachtclubtci.com 250–350 52 • • • • • • •<br />

Salt Cay<br />

Castaway – Salt Cay – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.castawayonsaltcay.com 175–265 4 • • • • •<br />

Genesis Beach House – Tel 561 502 0901 • Web www.Genesisbeachhouse.com 1000–1200W 4 • • • • •<br />

Pirate’s Hideaway B & B – Tel 800 289 5056/649 946 6909 • Web www.saltcay.tc 165–175 4 • • • • • • •<br />

Salt Cay Beach House – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.saltcaybeachhouse.blogspot.com 799W 1 • • • • • •<br />

Trade Winds Lodge – Tel 649 232 1009 • Web www.tradewinds.tc 925–1325W 5 • • • • •<br />

Twilight Zone Cottage – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.twilightzonecottage.blogspot.com 499W 1 • • • •<br />

The Villas <strong>of</strong> Salt Cay – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.villas<strong>of</strong>saltcay.com 150–475 5 • • • • • • • •<br />

H<br />

H<br />

H<br />

G<br />

South Caicos<br />

East Bay Resort – Tel 844 260 8328/649 232 6444 • Web eastbayresort.com 198–1775 86 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Sailrock South Caicos – Tel 800 929 7197 • Web sailrockresortcom 600–800 6 • • • • • • • • •<br />

South Caicos Ocean & Beach Resort – Tel 877 774 5486/649 946 3219<br />

Web southcaicos.oceanandbeachresort.com 120–275 24 • • • • •<br />

Hotel & Tourism Association Member<br />

Green Globe Certified<br />

Rates (listed for doubles) do not include Government Accommodation Tax and Service Charge<br />

82 www.timespub.tc

dining out – providenciales<br />

Amanyara — Amanyara Resort. Tel: 941-8133. Light gourmet<br />

cuisine with menu changing daily. Open 6 to 10 PM.<br />

Angela’s Top O’ The Cove Deli — Suzie Turn, by NAPA.<br />

Tel: 946-4694. New York-style delicatessen. Eat-in, carry-out,<br />

catering. Open daily 7 AM to 5 PM; Sunday 7 AM to 2 PM.<br />

Asú on <strong>the</strong> Beach — Alexandra Resort. Tel: 941-8888. Casual<br />

Caribbean and popular international fare. Open daily for 7:30<br />

AM to 10:30 PM. Service indoors, poolside, and at beach.<br />

Baci Ristorante — Harbour Towne, Turtle Cove. Tel: 941-3044.<br />

Waterfront Italian dining. Brick oven pizza. Popular bar. Open<br />

for lunch Monday to Friday 12 to 2 PM and dinner nightly from<br />

6 to 10 PM. Closed Sunday.<br />

Bay Bistro — Sibonné Beach Hotel. Tel: 946-5396. Oceanfront<br />

dining featuring creative international cuisine. Open daily<br />

7 AM to 10 PM. Weekend brunch. Catering and special events.<br />

Beaches Resort & Spa — The Bight. Tel: 946-8000.<br />

All-inclusive resort. A variety <strong>of</strong> restaurants and bars on premises.<br />

Non-guests can purchase a pass.<br />

Bella Luna Ristorante — Glass House, Grace Bay Road. Tel:<br />

946-5214. Fine Italian dining. Indoor or terrace seating above<br />

tropical garden. Open daily from 5:30 PM. Closed Sunday. Lunch<br />

and pizza in <strong>the</strong> garden. Private catering available.<br />

Big Al’s Island Grill — Salt Mills Plaza. Tel: 941-3797. Wide<br />

selection <strong>of</strong> burgers, steaks, salads, and wraps in a diner-like<br />

setting. Open daily from 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />

Bugaloo’s Conch Crawl — Five Cays. Tel: 941-3863. Fresh<br />

local conch and seafood by <strong>the</strong> beach. Rum, buckets <strong>of</strong> beer,<br />

live local bands. Open daily from 11 AM to late.<br />

Cabana Beach Bar & Grill — Ocean Club. Tel: 946-5880.<br />

Casual island fare, burgers, salads, snacks. Open daily from<br />

7 AM to 10 PM. Tropical cocktails with a view <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sea.<br />

Caicos Bakery — Caicos Café Plaza. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic French boulangerie.<br />

Fresh-baked breads, rolls, croissants, muffins, quiche,<br />

pastries, cakes. Open 7 AM to 4:30 PM daily except Sunday.<br />

Caicos Café — Caicos Café Plaza. Tel: 946-5278.<br />

Mediterranean specialties, grilled local seafood. Fine wines, dining<br />

on <strong>the</strong> deck. Open 6 PM to 10 PM Monday to Saturday.<br />

The Caravel Restaurant — Grace Bay Court. Tel: 941-5330.<br />

Cozy restaurant <strong>of</strong>fering island food with flair; famous for fish<br />

tacos. Full bar. Open daily 5 to 10 PM, closed Thursday.<br />

Chicken Chicken — <strong>Times</strong> Square, downtown Provo. Fast food,<br />

fried chicken, native fare.<br />

Chinson’s Grill Shack — Leeward Highway. Tel: 941-3533.<br />

The <strong>Islands</strong>’ best jerk and barbecue, Jamaican pastries. Open<br />

daily 8 AM to 10 PM; Friday to Midnight.<br />

Chopsticks — Neptune Court. Tel: 333-4040. Fusion <strong>of</strong> Asian<br />

cuisines. Take-away, delivery, on-site dining. Open daily 11:30<br />

AM to 3 PM; 5:30 to 10:00 PM.<br />

Club Med — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5500. All-inclusive<br />

resort. Buffet-style dining; live show and disco in <strong>the</strong> evenings.<br />

Non-guests can purchase a daily pass.<br />

Coco Bistro — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5369. Continental<br />

Caribbean cuisine by Chef Stuart Gray under a canopy <strong>of</strong> palms.<br />

Serving dinner from 5:30 PM. Closed Monday. Look for <strong>the</strong> new<br />

Cocovan airstream lounge with garden seating or take-away.<br />

Coconut Grove Restaurant & Lounge — Olympic Plaza,<br />

Downtown. Tel: 247-5610. Casual native fare for residents and<br />

tourists. Cracked conch, conch fritters, fried fish. Pool and game<br />

room. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />

Coyaba Restaurant — Caribbean Paradise Inn. Tel: 946-5<strong>18</strong>6.<br />

Contemporary Caribbean gourmet cuisine in a private tropical<br />

garden setting. Extensive wine list. Dinner nightly from 6 to 10<br />

PM. Closed Tuesday. Reservations recommended.<br />

Crackpot Kitchen — Ports <strong>of</strong> Call. Tel: 2313336. Experience<br />

<strong>the</strong> best <strong>of</strong> au<strong>the</strong>ntic Turks & Caicos and Caribbean cuisines<br />

with local celebrity Chef Nik. Open daily 5 to 10 PM except<br />

Thursday; Happy Hour 5 to 7 PM.<br />

Crust Bakery & Café — Graceway IGA. Tel: 941-8724.<br />

Breakfast sandwiches, specialty c<strong>of</strong>fees, soups, salads, gourmet<br />

sandwiches and desserts. Open Monday to Saturday, 7 AM to<br />

8:30 PM. Covered patio dining or take-out. Catering available.<br />

Da Conch Shack & RumBar — Blue Hills. Tel: 946-8877.<br />

Island-fresh seafood from <strong>the</strong> ocean to your plate. Covered<br />

beachfront dining for lunch and dinner daily from 11 AM.<br />

Danny Buoy’s — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5921. Traditional<br />

American pub fare; imported draught beers. Open for lunch and<br />

dinner daily from 11 AM. Happy Hour specials. Large screen TVs<br />

for sporting events. Karaoke.<br />

The Deck — Seven Stars Resort. Tel: 941-7777. All day dining<br />

and cocktails by <strong>the</strong> water’s edge. Open daily 11 AM to 11 PM.<br />

Live music Friday nights.<br />

Drift — West Bay Club. Tel: 946-8550. Open-air beachfront dining.<br />

Creatively used local ingredients. Full bar. Open daily.<br />

Dune — Windsong Resort. Tel: 333-7700. Private beachfront<br />

dining with limited availability. Fresh fare prepared to perfection.<br />

Open daily.<br />

Element — LeVele Plaza. Tel: 348-6424. Contemporary, creative<br />

cuisine in an elegant setting. Open for dinner Friday to<br />

Wednesday 6:30 to 10:30 PM.<br />

Fairways Bar & Grill — Provo Golf Club. Tel: 946-5833. Dine<br />

overlooking <strong>the</strong> “greens.” Open for breakfast and lunch from 7<br />

AM to 4 PM daily; Friday, Saturday and Sunday open until 8 PM.<br />

Great Sunday brunch 9 AM to 3 PM.<br />

Fire & Ice — Blue Haven Resort & Marina. Tel: 946-9900.<br />

Drinks at <strong>the</strong> Ice Bar, dessert by <strong>the</strong> fire pits. South Americanmeets-Caribbean<br />

flavors and spices. Open daily 5:30 to 9:30<br />

PM. Closed Wednesday.<br />

Fresh Bakery & Bistro — Atrium Resort. Tel: 345-4745.<br />

Healthy European salads, soups, sandwiches, bakery, pies and<br />

cakes. Gelato. Open daily 7 AM to 6 PM, closed Sunday.<br />

Fresh Catch — Salt Mills Plaza. Tel: 243-3167. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic native<br />

cuisine, from seafood to souse. All-you-can-eat seafood buffet<br />

on Wednesday. Open daily 8 AM to 10 PM. Closed Sunday.<br />

Carry-out available.<br />

Garam Masala — Regent Village. Tel: 941-3292. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic<br />

Indian cuisine, tandoori charcoal-oven specialties. Open daily<br />

11:30 AM to 3 PM, 5:30 to 10 PM. Dine-in, take-out or delivery.<br />

Giggles Ice Cream & Candy Parlour — Ports <strong>of</strong> Call &<br />

Williams Storage. Tel: 941-7370. Cones, sundaes, shakes,<br />

smoothies, “Gigglers,” ice cream pies and cakes. Pick ‘n’ mix<br />

candies. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />

Gilley’s Sky Lounge & Bar — At <strong>the</strong> airport. Tel: 946-4472.<br />

Burgers, sandwiches, local food. Open daily 6 AM to 9 PM.<br />

Grace’s Cottage — Point Grace Resort. Tel: 946-5096.<br />

Elegant, gourmet Caribbean cuisine showcasing regional foods.<br />

Extensive wine list. Gazebo seating under <strong>the</strong> stars or indoor<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 83

dining in a romantic gingerbread cottage. Serving dinner from<br />

6 to 10 PM nightly. Reservations required. Native cuisine night<br />

on Tuesday with live music.<br />

Grill Rouge — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-5050. Al fresco bistro.<br />

Diverse menu. Fun cocktails. Open daily for lunch Noon to 3 PM,<br />

dinner to 9 PM.<br />

Hemingways on <strong>the</strong> Beach — The Sands at Grace Bay. Tel:<br />

941-8408. Casual beachfront bar and restaurant. Fresh fish,<br />

pasta, sandwiches, salads and tropical drinks by <strong>the</strong> pool.<br />

Oceanfront deck for great sunsets! Open 8 AM to 10 PM daily.<br />

Hole in <strong>the</strong> Wall Restaurant & Bar — Williams Plaza, Old<br />

Airport Road. Tel: 941-4136. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Jamaican/Island cuisine<br />

where <strong>the</strong> locals go. Full bar. A/C dining or outdoors on <strong>the</strong><br />

deck. Open daily 7 AM to 9 PM. Pick-up/delivery available.<br />

Infiniti Restaurant & Raw Bar — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-<br />

5050. Elegant beachfront dining for lunch and dinner. Gourmet<br />

Euro/Caribbean cuisine; fine wines. Full bar and lounge.<br />

Reservations required.<br />

Island Boochery — Le Petite Plaza. Tel: 348-7027. Vegan<br />

lifestyle kitchen, <strong>of</strong>fering fresh, organic, raw, vegan, gourmet.<br />

Open daily 10 AM to 6 PM; Saturday 10 AM to 2 PM.<br />

Island Conch Bar & Grill — Bight Cultural Market. Tel: 946-<br />

8389. Caribbean and local cuisine. Open daily 11 AM to 9 PM.<br />

Island Scoop — Grace Bay Plaza. Tel: 242-8511/243-5051.<br />

21 flavors <strong>of</strong> ice cream made locally. Cones, smoothies, blizzards<br />

and shakes. Open daily, 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />

The Java Bar — Graceway Gourmet. Tel: 941-5000. Gourmet<br />

café serving fresh baked desserts, sandwiches and c<strong>of</strong>fee<br />

delights. Open 7 AM to 8 PM daily.<br />

Jimmy’s Dive Bar — Ports <strong>of</strong> Call. Tel: 946-5282. The place for<br />

steaks, BBQ, booze and breakfast. Open daily, 7 AM to 11 PM,<br />

(Thursday to Saturday to Midnight); open Sunday at 8 AM.<br />

KItchen 2<strong>18</strong> — Beach House, Lower Bight Road. Tel: 946-5800.<br />

Caribbean cuisine with hints <strong>of</strong> French and Asian fusion and <strong>the</strong><br />

chef’s passion for fresh ingredients. Open 8 AM to 10 PM daily.<br />

The Landing Bar & Kitchen — Grace Bay Road across from<br />

Regent Village. Tel: 341-5856. Unique nautical setting for dinner<br />

under <strong>the</strong> stars. Cocktails, fire pit. Open daily except Tuesday<br />

5:30 PM to . . .<br />

Las Brisas — Neptune Villas, Chalk Sound. Tel: 946-5306.<br />

Mediterranean/Caribbean cuisine with tapas, wine and full bar.<br />

Terrace, gazebo and inside dining overlooking Chalk Sound.<br />

Open daily 8 AM to 10 PM. Take-out available; private parties.<br />

Le Bouchon du Village — Regent Village. Tel: 946-5234. A<br />

taste <strong>of</strong> Paris. Sidewalk café with sandwiches, salads, tartines,<br />

tapas, dinner specials, wine, cheese, dessert, c<strong>of</strong>fees. Open<br />

daily 11 AM. Closed Sunday.<br />

Le Comptoir Francais — Regent Village. Tel: 946-5234.<br />

French deli, bakery, wine shop. Open daily.<br />

Lemon 2 Go C<strong>of</strong>fee — Ventura House. Tel: 941-4069.<br />

Gourmet c<strong>of</strong>feehouse. Sandwiches, muffins, cookies, croissants,<br />

yogurt, salads. Open Monday to Saturday 7:30 AM to 7 PM,<br />

Sunday 9 AM to 1 PM.<br />

The Lounge — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-5050. Decidedly hip<br />

lounge. Caribbean-infused tapas, martinis, tropical cocktails,<br />

world music and <strong>the</strong> finest sunset location in Providenciales.<br />

Lupo — Regent Village. Tel: 431-5876. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Italian<br />

“comfort food.” Regional wine list. Dine in or take out readymade<br />

gourmet meals. Open daily 11 AM to 3 PM; 6 to 10 PM.<br />

Magnolia Restaurant & Wine Bar — Miramar Resort. Tel:<br />

941-5108. International cuisine with island flavors, north shore<br />

views. Open for dinner from 6 to 9:30 PM except Monday. Wine<br />

bar opens at 4 PM.<br />

Mango Reef — Turtle Cove. Tel: 946-8200. Fresh local flavors<br />

and seafood, homemade desserts. Open daily 8 AM to 10 PM.<br />

Set price dinner on weekdays. Waterside deck, indoor or patio<br />

dining. Tie-up to dock at Turtle Cove Marina.<br />

Market Café — Blue Haven Resort. Tel: 946-9900. Gourmet<br />

c<strong>of</strong>fees, teas, frozen drinks; fresh breads and pastries; grab ‘n’<br />

go salads, sandwiches, smoothies. Open daily 7 AM to 8 PM.<br />

Melt Ice Cream Parlour — Regent Village. Tel: 432-1234.<br />

Carefully crafted selection <strong>of</strong> sumptous and inspired sundaes,<br />

with c<strong>of</strong>fee, champagne and cocktails for <strong>the</strong> grown-ups! Open<br />

Monday to Saturday, 9 AM to 10 PM.<br />

Mis Amigos Cocina Mexicana — Central Square. Tel: 946-<br />

4229. A variety <strong>of</strong> traditional Mexican fare, including salads and<br />

<strong>the</strong> best margaritas in town. Open daily.<br />

Mo<strong>the</strong>r’s Pizza — Downtown <strong>Times</strong> Square. Tel: 941-4142.<br />

Best pizza in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos, available by <strong>the</strong> slice or <strong>the</strong><br />

island’s biggest “large.” Open daily 11 AM to 9 PM; to 10 PM on<br />

Friday and Saturday; Noon to 8 PM on Sunday.<br />

Mr. Groupers — Lower Bight and Sunset Ridge Hotel (near airport).<br />

Tel: 242-6780. Serving fresh local seafood straight from<br />

<strong>the</strong> sea. Open daily 10 AM to 10:30 PM, Sunday 3 to 11 PM.<br />

Opus Wine • Bar • Grill — Ocean Club Plaza. Tel: 946-<br />

5885. International menu with Caribbean flair. Fresh seafood.<br />

Serving dinner nightly 6 to 10:30 PM. Indoor/outdoor dining.<br />

Conference facility, events, catering.<br />

Parallel23 — The Palms. Tel: 946-8666. Pan-tropical cuisine in<br />

a setting <strong>of</strong> casual elegance. Boutique wine list. Al fresco or private<br />

dining room available. Open daily 6 to 10:30 PM.<br />

The Patty Place — Behind Shining Stars; Le Petit Place, Blue<br />

Hills. Tel: 246-9000. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Jamaican patties and loaves. <strong>18</strong><br />

flavors <strong>of</strong> Devon House ice cream. Open daily 9:30 AM to 10 PM.<br />

Pavilion — The Somerset. Tel: 339-5900. Chef Brad <strong>of</strong>fers a<br />

global palate, interpreted locally. Seafood raw bar. Open daily<br />

for breakfast, lunch, dinner; Sunday Prime Rib special.<br />

Pelican Bay Restaurant & Bar — Royal West Indies Resort.<br />

Tel: 941-2365/431-9101. Poolside restaurant and bar with<br />

Caribbean, French and Asian fare. Breakfast, lunch, dinner daily<br />

from 7:30 AM to 10 PM. Special events each week.<br />

Pepper Town Café — Digicel Cinema, #4. Tel: 246-9237.<br />

Native and Caribbean Dishes. Open daily except Sunday 11:30<br />

AM to 7 PM. Island breakfast on Saturday at 7 AM.<br />

Pizza Pizza — Grace Bay Plaza/Cinema Plaza. Tel: 941-<br />

8010/941-3577. New York style specialty pizzas. Open daily<br />

11:30 AM to 9:30 PM, weekends until 10 PM. Free delivery.<br />

Retreat Kitchen Vegetarian Café & Juice Bar — Ports <strong>of</strong><br />

Call. Tel: 432-2485. Fresh, organic, vegan fare. Fresh juices,<br />

daily lunch specials. Open for lunch Monday to Saturday.<br />

Rickie’s Flamingo Café — Between Ocean Club and Club Med.<br />

Tel: 244-3231. Local fare and atmosphere right on <strong>the</strong> beach.<br />

Best grouper sandwich and rum punch! Don’t miss Curry Fridays<br />

and Beach BBQ Saturdays.<br />

Sailing Paradise — Blue Hills. Tel: 344-1914. Casual beachfront<br />

restaurant and bar. Caribbean fare. Open daily 7 AM to 11<br />

PM. Sunday brunch and beach party, daily happy hour.<br />

Salt Bar & Grill — Blue Haven Resort & Marina. Tel: 946-9900.<br />

Casual dining with outdoor seating overlooking <strong>the</strong> marina.<br />

Sandwiches, burgers and salads, classic bar favorites with local<br />

flair. Open daily from 11:30 AM to 9:30 PM.<br />

Seven — Seven Stars Resort. Tel: 339-7777. Elevated contempo-<br />

84 www.timespub.tc

ary cuisine fused with TCI tradition. Open Monday to Saturday,<br />

5:30 to 9:30 PM.<br />

72ºWest — The Palms Resort. Tel: 946-8666. Beachside dining<br />

with a family-friendly, Caribbean-inspired menu. Serving lunch<br />

daily; dinner seasonally.<br />

Sharkbite Bar & Grill — Admiral’s Club at Turtle Cove. Tel:<br />

941-5090. Varied menu; casual dining. Sports bar/slots. Open<br />

daily from 11 AM to 2 AM.<br />

Shay Café — Le Vele Plaza. Tel: 331-6349. Offering organic<br />

c<strong>of</strong>fees, teas, sandwiches, salads, soup, pastries, gelato, sorbetto,<br />

smoothies, beer and wine. Open daily 7 AM to 7 PM.<br />

Simone’s Bar & Grill — La Vista Azul. Tel: 331-3031. Serving<br />

fresh seafood and local cuisine. Open daily 11 AM to 11 PM;<br />

weekends 7 AM to 11 PM. Popular bar!<br />

Solana! Restaurant — Ocean Club West. Tel: 946-5254.<br />

Oceanfront dining from sushi to burgers. Teppanyaki and Sushi<br />

Bar, engage with <strong>the</strong> chefs. Open daily 7:30 AM to 10 PM.<br />

Somewhere Café & Lounge — Coral Gardens Resort. Tel:<br />

941-8260. Casual dining with Tex-Mex flair right on <strong>the</strong> beach.<br />

Cocktails, beers, specialty drinks. Open early to late daily.<br />

Stelle — Gansevoort Turks + Caicos. Tel: 232-4444. Modern<br />

Mediterranean cuisine featuring fresh fish and seafood. Open 6<br />

to 10 PM daily, until 2 AM on Friday with DJ.<br />

Sui-Ren — The Shore Club. Tel: 339-8000. Inspired flavors <strong>of</strong><br />

Peruvian-Japanese fusion cuisine with fresh seafood and organic<br />

produce in a unique setting. Open daily.<br />

Thai Orchid — The Regent Village. Tel: 946-4491. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic<br />

Thai cuisine; over 60 choices! Dine in or carry out. Open for<br />

lunch and dinner daily.<br />

Three Bro<strong>the</strong>rs Restaurant — Town Center Mall, Downtown.<br />

Tel: 232-4736. Seafood and native cuisine. Tuesday night buffet<br />

dinner. Catering services. Open daily, 7 AM to 10 PM.<br />

Tiki Hut Island Eatery — Dockside at Turtle Cove Inn. Tel:<br />

941-5341. Imaginative sandwiches, salads, seafood, Black<br />

Angus beef, pasta, pizzas, fresh fish. Open daily 11 AM to 10<br />

PM. Breakfast on weekends.<br />

Turkberry Frozen Yogurt — The Saltmills. Tel: 431-2233.<br />

Frozen yogurt in a variety <strong>of</strong> flavors, with a large selection <strong>of</strong><br />

toppings. Open 11 AM to 11 PM daily.<br />

Turks Kebab — At Craft Market on Sand Castle Drive. Tel: 431-<br />

9964. Turkish and Mediterranean fare. Salads, falafel, gyros,<br />

kebabs, hummus. Open for lunch and dinner.<br />

Via Veneto — Ports <strong>of</strong> Call. Tel: 941-2372. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Italian<br />

dining in a stylish indoor/outdoor venue. Open from 5:30 PM to<br />

late. Closed Thursday. Saturday is Pizza Night!<br />

The Vix Bar & Grill — Regent Village. Tel: 941-4144. Highend,<br />

island-inspired world cuisine, fine wines. Open daily for<br />

breakfast, lunch and dinner. Available for meetings.<br />

Yoshi’s Sushi & Grill — The Saltmills. Tel: 941-3374/431-<br />

0012. Sushi bar menu plus Japanese cuisine. Open daily Noon<br />

to 3 PM; 6 to 10 PM. Closed Sunday. Dine indoors or out. Carry<br />

out available.<br />

Zest! — Gansevoort Turks + Caicos. Tel: 232-4444. Lunch and<br />

dinner beachfront. Taste <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caribbean and Americas. Open<br />

daily Noon to 5 PM; 6 to 9 PM. Fisherman’s night Wednesday. a<br />

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Call or email us today!<br />

Grace Bay Road across from Regent Street<br />

Fun Friendly People<br />

Yana ad May<strong>2017</strong>_Caicu Naniki classified 5/28/17 7:29 PM Page 1<br />

Appreciating Your Business!<br />

941-8500<br />

www.gracebaycarrentals.com<br />

JEEPS • VANS • SUVs<br />



Economical 5 Day Package<br />



Mon to Sat 8-5 and Sun 8-12<br />


946-4684 • Cell Phone: 231-0262<br />

www.ScooterBobTCI.com<br />

e-mail: scooterbobs@gmail.com<br />

Jana Pickova Lightbourne<br />

Ultimate Massage<br />

Experience<br />

Spa Pure Bliss_Layout 1 11/7/17 10:20 AM Page 1<br />

Tel: (649) 332-5974<br />

Touch <strong>of</strong> Bliss_Layout 1 12/12/17 11:34 AM Page 1<br />


Pr<strong>of</strong>essional & Luxurious<br />

Services:<br />

•Aroma<strong>the</strong>rapy<br />

•Synergy Massage<br />

•Pregnancy Massage<br />

•Deep Tissue Massage<br />

•Pre/Post Surgery Massage<br />

•Sports Massage<br />

•Reflexology<br />

•Facials •Body Scrub<br />

•Pedicures •Manicures<br />

pureblissmassages@yahoo.com<br />

Ana: 649.348.5687 • Anisha: 649.343.8536<br />

Coming to your<br />

villa or house<br />

at <strong>the</strong> time<br />

that suits you<br />

Natural • Herbal • Relaxing<br />

Newly located at Caribbean Place<br />

Turks & Caicos<br />



649-946-4353<br />

Caring for your pet as though<br />

it were our own since 1981<br />

SeaSwim change classified:Caicu Naniki classified<br />

HertzDollar_Layout 1 2/16/17 Call•Email•WhatsApp<br />

12:37 PM Page 1<br />

We Come To You•Cash Only Skipper_Layout 1 2/16/17 11:36 PM Page 1<br />

649.941.3910 649.946.4864<br />

Call Us.<br />

Whe<strong>the</strong>r it’s for <strong>the</strong> largest variety <strong>of</strong><br />

vehicles, or <strong>the</strong> better prices and<br />

greater service.<br />

www.hertztci.com www.dollarcartci.com<br />

Open 8am to 5pm 7 days.<br />

Skipper’s<br />

TAXI & TOURS<br />

Lloyd “Skipper” Stubbs<br />

at your service<br />


PH: 649 241 9959<br />

After hours call<br />

Brigitte ad Classified_Brigitte 8/25/17 11:50 AM Page 1 PROVIDENCIALES,<br />

Barry 332.0012 Patrice 332.8602 Sophia 331.9895<br />


Tangled Hair Salon<br />

Open 6 days per week<br />

for cutting, styling and so much more<br />

Call 431 4247 (431 HAIR)<br />


www.tangledhairsalonprovidenciales.com<br />

classified ads . . .<br />

“One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> World’s<br />

Most Gorgeous Swims” -<br />

The Daily News <strong>of</strong> Open<br />

Water Swimming<br />



JULY 7, 20<strong>18</strong><br />


1/2 MILE, 1 MILE, AND 2.4 MILE EVENTS<br />

(649) 432-5000<br />

www.ecoseaswim.com<br />

are an inexpensive way to reach <strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> readers,<br />

in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos and around <strong>the</strong> world.<br />

call 649 431 7527 for information<br />

86 www.timespub.tc


Beach Enclave<br />

International Drive<br />

SOLD MLS 1400324<br />

We all have dreams, and <strong>the</strong>y are as vast and varied as <strong>the</strong> world is wide. But <strong>the</strong>y all start with<br />

inspiration, and inspiration starts with your surroundings. That’s what home is.<br />

Family. Friends. A sense <strong>of</strong> place. An amazing view.<br />

It’s all part <strong>of</strong> what makes a space a home, because your home is where you truly LIVE.<br />


Condominium | Home & Villa | Land | New Development<br />

649.946.4474 | info@tcso<strong>the</strong>bysrealty.com | turksandcaicosSIR.com<br />

Venture House, Grace Bay | Resort Locations: Grace Bay Club, The Palms, The Shore Club, The Sands<br />

Each So<strong>the</strong>by’s International Realty® <strong>of</strong>fice is independently owned and operated.

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