Times of the Islands Winter 2017/18
Presents the "soul of the Turks & Caicos Islands" with in-depth features about local people, culture, history, environment, businesses, resorts, restaurants and activities.
Presents the "soul of the Turks & Caicos Islands" with in-depth features about local people, culture, history, environment, businesses, resorts, restaurants and activities.
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TIMES<br />
OF THE<br />
SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS WINTER <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> NO. 121<br />
ISLANDS<br />
TCI STRONG<br />
Recovering from Hurricane Irma<br />
MODERN CRUSOES<br />
Seeking utopia on East Caicos<br />
TO THE RESCQ<br />
Saving Grand Turk’s precious coral
H O W D O YO U L I K E Y O U R L U X U R Y ?<br />
EFFORTLESS? OR BRILLIANTLY UNCONVENTIONAL?<br />
THE SHORE CLUB<br />
THE SHORE CLUB<br />
THE PALMS<br />
THE PALMS<br />
THE SHORE CLUB<br />
The refined sophistication <strong>of</strong> The Palms on Grace Bay<br />
Beach, consistently honored by travel publications<br />
for its sense <strong>of</strong> elegance and easy atmosphere. The<br />
savvy chic <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Shore Club, <strong>the</strong> stunning new gamechanger<br />
on Long Bay Beach. Where whimsy rules and<br />
magic awaits around every corner. Each with a style<br />
and a vibe all its own. Both singular destinations, part<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Hartling Group’s stellar portfolio <strong>of</strong> luxury resorts<br />
which also includes The Sands at Grace Bay. Your call.<br />
THE COOL SIDE OF CLASSIC<br />
649.946.8666<br />
<strong>the</strong>palmstc.com<br />
WRITE YOUR STORY HERE<br />
649.339.8000<br />
<strong>the</strong>shoreclubtc.com
KIDS<br />
get a great vacation<br />
And so do <strong>the</strong> PARENTS<br />
Vacation time is a great time for everyone at Beaches ® Turks & Caicos. With five villages set on Grace Bay, voted one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> best beaches in <strong>the</strong> world, your clients will have so<br />
much to do, <strong>the</strong>y won’t know where to start. The 45,000 square foot Pirates Island Waterpark is perfect for kids, with 10 waterslides, including a SkySlide, plus a surf simulator<br />
and lazy river. Families can scuba dive* and snorkel along some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> best reefs in <strong>the</strong> Caribbean or swim-up to five bars (with nine more on dry land), because <strong>the</strong> drinks are<br />
always on <strong>the</strong> house. And 5-Star Global Gourmet TM dining means <strong>the</strong>y have 21 specialty restaurants to choose from, satisfying even <strong>the</strong> most finicky eaters. There are luxury<br />
accommodations for every size family, and exciting activities for kids, from an Xbox Play Lounge to a teens-only nightclub to our Very Important Kids (V.I.K.) Camp. Best <strong>of</strong> all,<br />
everything is unlimited and included – even <strong>the</strong> tip, taxes and Beaches transfers*. So while <strong>the</strong> kids are <strong>of</strong>f doing <strong>the</strong>ir own thing, <strong>the</strong> grown-ups can enjoy an escape <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir own.<br />
MAGNIFICENT POOLS<br />
UNLIMITED SCUBA DIVING *<br />
WATERPARK FUN<br />
21 RESTAURANTS INCLUDED<br />
But when <strong>the</strong>y get toge<strong>the</strong>r, it’s <strong>the</strong> best time <strong>of</strong> all.<br />
BEACHES.COM<br />
In <strong>the</strong> U.S. and Canada: 1-800-BEACHES; In <strong>the</strong> Caribbean:1-888-BEACHES;<br />
In Turks & Caicos: 649-946-8000 or call your Travel Pr<strong>of</strong>essional<br />
MORE QUALITY INCLUSIONS THAN ANY OTHER RESORTS IN THE WORLD<br />
*Visit www.beaches.com/disclaimers/times<strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong>islandswinter17 or call 1-800-BEACHES for important terms & conditions.
contents<br />
Departments<br />
6 From <strong>the</strong> Editor<br />
13 Getting to Know<br />
A Silver Lining<br />
By Jody Rathgeb<br />
Photos Courtesy Paul Wilkerson<br />
74 Faces & Places<br />
Junior Achievement <strong>2017</strong> Innovation Camp<br />
By Claire Parrish ~ Photos By Angela Musgrove<br />
75 About <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>/TCI Map<br />
81 Where to Stay<br />
83 Dining Out<br />
85 Subscription Form<br />
86 Classified Ads<br />
Features<br />
28 TCI Strong<br />
By Ben Stubenberg<br />
46 An Unexpected Adventure<br />
By John Galleymore<br />
50 Putting a Lid on It . . .<br />
By Peter Kerrigan, Engineering Design Services<br />
56 To Need and Not Have . . .<br />
By Craig Archibold, NW Hamilton Insurance<br />
Green Pages<br />
<strong>18</strong> Recovery2<br />
Story & Photos By B Naqqi Manco<br />
21 To <strong>the</strong> RESCQ<br />
Story & Photos By Don Stark<br />
24 Go Gently<br />
By Dr. Aaron Henderson & Dr. Heidi Hertler<br />
Photos By Dr. Heidi Hertler<br />
TIMES<br />
OF THE<br />
ISLANDS<br />
SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS WINTER <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> NO. 121<br />
On <strong>the</strong> Cover<br />
Sharon Weil Hornstein is <strong>the</strong> owner/photographer <strong>of</strong><br />
Sand Dollar Images. Of this her first contribution to<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> she says, “Up early, I looked out<br />
<strong>the</strong> window at just <strong>the</strong> right moment and dashed to<br />
Leeward Beach to make this image. For me, rainbows<br />
have always symbolized hope and opportunity and I<br />
believe this photograph captures <strong>the</strong> power, beauty and<br />
resilience <strong>of</strong> Turk & Caicos through Hurricanes Irma and<br />
Maria.” For more <strong>of</strong> Sharon’s Turks & Caicos images,<br />
visit www.sanddollarimages.com and follow her on<br />
Instagram @sanddollarimages and<br />
@turnstonehousetci.<br />
Astrolabe<br />
61 Starting Over<br />
By Dr. Donald H. Keith<br />
62 Modern Crusoes<br />
By Jeffrey Dodge<br />
67 Follow <strong>the</strong> Chimneys<br />
By Dr. Charlene Kozy<br />
28<br />
This October <strong>2017</strong> drone image shows that <strong>the</strong> hurricanes did not<br />
diminish <strong>the</strong> beauty <strong>of</strong> TCI’s beaches.<br />
PROVO PICTURES<br />
4 www.timespub.tc
TurksAndCaicosProperty.com<br />
Parrot Cay Beachfront - Dhyani House<br />
Dhyani House in Parrot Cay is a “must see” property for discerning real estate buyers seeking<br />
peace, tranquility and more seclusion than many o<strong>the</strong>r Caribbean <strong>Islands</strong> or Providenciales have to<br />
<strong>of</strong>fer. This exclusive 4,691 sq. ft. 3 bedroom beachfront villa is set on an expansive 2.36 acres. Also<br />
included in this <strong>of</strong>fering, is an adjacent lot with an additional 2.31 acres <strong>of</strong> prime beachfront land.<br />
US$12,000,000<br />
Bernadette Hunt<br />
Cell ~ 649 231 4029 | Tel ~ 649 941 3361<br />
Bernadette@TurksAndCaicosProperty.com<br />
Bernadette has lived in <strong>the</strong> Turks and Caicos<br />
<strong>Islands</strong> for over 21 years and witnessed <strong>the</strong><br />
development and transition <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> islands<br />
into a significant tourist destination. Based<br />
on independent figures her gross transaction<br />
numbers are unrivalled. Bernadette has<br />
listings on Providenciales, Parrot Cay,<br />
North and Middle Caicos and is delighted<br />
to work with sellers and buyers <strong>of</strong> homes,<br />
condos, commercial real estate and vacant<br />
undeveloped sites.<br />
Long Bay Beachfront - Mandalay<br />
Mandalay is an exclusive 7 bedroom ultra luxury property located on more than 2 acres <strong>of</strong> Long Bay Beach,<br />
in a pristine, low-density area only minutes from Grace Bay. The villa and out buildings exemplify <strong>the</strong> new<br />
standard in luxury construction using creative materials, cutting edge technology and exceptional finishing.<br />
US$11,500,000<br />
Turks and Caicos Property is <strong>the</strong> leading<br />
independent real estate firm in <strong>the</strong> Turks and<br />
Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> with <strong>of</strong>fices located at Ocean<br />
Club West Plaza, Ocean Club West Resort<br />
and Le Vele Plaza on <strong>the</strong> Grace Bay Road.<br />
Bernadette’s reputation and success has been<br />
earned over time through her dedication,<br />
enthusiasm and passion for real estate. Her<br />
personal experience as having practiced law<br />
in <strong>the</strong> islands for more than 10 years toge<strong>the</strong>r<br />
with owning and renovating a number <strong>of</strong><br />
properties means she is well-placed to advise<br />
her customers and developers on what to<br />
anticipate in <strong>the</strong> purchasing and construction<br />
process.<br />
Bernadette delights in working in <strong>the</strong> real<br />
estate industry and her humor and energy<br />
make her a pleasure to work with.<br />
North Caicos - 200 Acre Development Site<br />
This is a rare opportunity for developers wishing to purchase a pristine 200 acre site in North Caicos,<br />
Turks and Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. The property features 1,650 ft. <strong>of</strong> coveted beachfront. Located on <strong>the</strong> on <strong>the</strong><br />
Nor<strong>the</strong>ast side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> island and consisting <strong>of</strong> 4 parcels <strong>of</strong> land (lots 109, 110, 111 and 112 in Block 50102).<br />
Please contact Bernadette if you would like<br />
to find out more about owning real estate in<br />
<strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
US$12,500,000
from <strong>the</strong> editor<br />
MARTA MORTON—WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM<br />
Mirroring <strong>the</strong> country’s resilient spirit, <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />
flora bloomed back within weeks <strong>of</strong> Hurricane Irma’s strike.<br />
Give and Take Away<br />
A Christian worship song I’ve listened to for many years, quoting from <strong>the</strong> Bible’s Book <strong>of</strong> Job, says, “He gives<br />
and takes away . . . blessed be His name.” Whe<strong>the</strong>r or not you believe in an Almighty God, most <strong>of</strong> us believe in some<br />
form <strong>of</strong> cosmic reckoning, a universal balance, hence <strong>the</strong> adages “Every cloud has a silver lining” and “It all evens out<br />
in <strong>the</strong> end.”<br />
The Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> have long been blessed with an exceptionally beautiful, bountiful and sought-after<br />
natural environment in <strong>the</strong> turquoise sea, sugar-sand beaches, clear skies and warm climate. The people, too, are<br />
uncommonly kind, generous and gifted with an exuberant sense <strong>of</strong> humor and ability to persevere during hard times.<br />
The rapid changes <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> last three decades, both within <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> and <strong>the</strong> world at large, threaten to mar pristine<br />
resources and cause open hearts to clench.<br />
Yet an intervention <strong>of</strong> sorts took place this fall. The massive impact <strong>of</strong> Hurricane Irma and <strong>the</strong> threat <strong>of</strong> Hurricane<br />
Maria has “taken away.” Homes, ro<strong>of</strong>s, businesses, livelihoods, routines, plans and expectations were destroyed. But<br />
also broken down were barriers between races, religions and economic level, as folks came toge<strong>the</strong>r in recovery.<br />
“Given back” were fresh landscapes, bigger beaches, better strategies for <strong>the</strong> future, renewed appreciation <strong>of</strong> TCI’s<br />
attributes and most importantly, a new spirit <strong>of</strong> pride, cooperation and toge<strong>the</strong>rness. You’ll see it in <strong>the</strong> pages to<br />
follow. And at <strong>the</strong> “end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> day,” as <strong>the</strong>y say, I think <strong>the</strong> scale is tipping in <strong>the</strong> favor <strong>of</strong> blessed.<br />
Kathy Borsuk, Editor<br />
timespub@tciway.tc • (649) 946-4788<br />
6 www.timespub.tc
LAST OF THE TRUE EXOTIC<br />
FIRST FOR FAMILIES<br />
Five Distinct Villages to Choose From<br />
1. KEY WEST VILLAGE 2. ITALIA<br />
BEACHES ® Turks & Caicos, <strong>the</strong> last <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> true exotics, includes absolutely everything you<br />
could think <strong>of</strong> for <strong>the</strong> ultimate family vacation. A thrilling 45,000 square-foot waterpark with<br />
ten water slides and a surf simulator. Fabulous land and water sports* including unlimited<br />
scuba diving*. PADI even named Beaches Resorts one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> top five dive operations<br />
in <strong>the</strong> Western Hemisphere. Superb 5-Star Global Gourmet dining at 21 restaurants,<br />
and 14 bars serving unlimited premium spirits for adults. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic island entertainment<br />
for everyone. Cool hangouts for teens and Sesame Street ® fun and games for <strong>the</strong> kids.<br />
Complimentary accredited nannies for all ages, all day and into <strong>the</strong> night. Beautifully<br />
appointed family-sized rooms, suites, and villas, some even with butler service. Even <strong>the</strong> tips,<br />
taxes and Beaches transfers* are included. Take a closer look at Beaches Turks & Caicos<br />
and see why we continue to enjoy an unparalleled record <strong>of</strong> award-winning success.
S<br />
N VILLAGE 3. CARIBBEAN VILLAGE 4. FRENCH VILLAGE 5. SEASIDE VILLAGE<br />
21 SPECIALTY RESTAURANTS.<br />
ALL INCLUDED. ALL UNLIMITED.<br />
Savour <strong>the</strong> difference between<br />
dining and 5-Star Global<br />
Gourmet TM dining where<br />
<strong>the</strong> ingredients are freshly<br />
prepared, <strong>the</strong> décor is as<br />
au<strong>the</strong>ntic as <strong>the</strong> cuisine, and<br />
a globally-inspired menu <strong>of</strong><br />
culinary delights is created by<br />
internationally-trained chefs.<br />
&<br />
Turks Caicos<br />
Resort Villages & Spa<br />
MORE QUALITY INCLUSIONS THAN<br />
ANY OTHER RESORTS IN THE WORLD<br />
For more information visit BEACHES.COM<br />
In <strong>the</strong> Caribbean: 1-888-BEACHES;<br />
in Turks & Caicos: 649-946-8000<br />
or call your Travel Pr<strong>of</strong>essional<br />
BEACHES VOTED WORLD’S BEST<br />
AT THE WORLD<br />
19<br />
YEARS IN A ROW<br />
TRAVEL AWARDS<br />
*Visit www.beaches.com/disclaimers/times<strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong>islandswinter<strong>2017</strong>btc or<br />
call 1-800-BEACHES for important terms & conditions.<br />
®
2016<br />
VOTED<br />
WORLD<br />
19 YEARS in a Row at th<br />
MORE QUALITY INCLUSIONS THAN ANY OTHER RESORTS IN THE WORLD<br />
Beaches ® Turks & Caicos has held <strong>the</strong> top spot at <strong>the</strong> World<br />
Travel Awards for nearly two decades by <strong>of</strong>fering guests more <strong>of</strong><br />
everything on <strong>the</strong> world’s best beach. Every land and water sport, an<br />
awe-inspiring waterpark with surf simulator, 5-Star Global<br />
For more information, visit BEACHES.COM<br />
OR CALL 1-888-BEACHES<br />
Gourmet TM dining at 21 incredible restaurants, and non-stop bars<br />
and entertainment — always included, always unlimited. And now<br />
we’ve added trend-setting food trucks, new live entertainment, and<br />
re-styled accommodations … making <strong>the</strong> World’s Best even better.<br />
TIPS, TAXES AND BEACHES TRANSFERS* INCLUDED<br />
TM/© <strong>2017</strong> Sesame Workshop<br />
*Airport transfers included. O<strong>the</strong>r transfers may be additional. Beaches ® is a registered trademark. Un
Five Distinct Villages to Choose From<br />
1. KEY WEST VILLAGE 2. ITALIAN VILLAGE 3. CARIBBEAN VILLAGE 4. FRENCH VILLAGE 5. SEASIDE VILLAGE<br />
’S BEST<br />
e World Travel Awards<br />
Beaches Turks & Caicos<br />
is on <strong>the</strong> world’s<br />
#1 BEST BEACH<br />
by tripadvisor ®<br />
ique Vacations, Inc. is an affiliate <strong>of</strong> Unique Travel Corp., <strong>the</strong> worldwide representative <strong>of</strong> Beaches Resorts.
PG advert_Layout 1 5/10/17 9:10 AM Page 1<br />
TIMES<br />
MANAGING EDITOR<br />
Kathy Borsuk<br />
OF THE<br />
ISLANDS<br />
ADVERTISING MANAGER<br />
Claire Parrish<br />
“Escape to <strong>the</strong> extraordinary.”<br />
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS<br />
Craig Archibold, Kathy Borsuk, Jeffrey Dodge,<br />
John Galleymore, Dr. Aaron C. Henderson, Dr. Heidi Hertler,<br />
Dr. Donald H. Keith, Peter Kerrigan, Dr. Charlene Kozy,<br />
B Naqqi Manco, Claire Parrish, Jody Rathgeb,<br />
Ramona Settle, Don Stark, Ben Stubenberg.<br />
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS<br />
Jeffrey Dodge, John Galleymore,<br />
Gary James–Provo Pictures, Dr. Heidi Hertler,<br />
Sharon Weil Hornstein, Sara Kaufman,<br />
Dr. Donald H. Keith, Agile LeVin, B Naqqi Manco,<br />
Marta Morton, Angela Musgrove, NASA Image Library,<br />
Ingrid Pohl and Janet Pohl-Schollenberg, Dominick Rolle,<br />
Pat Saxton, Ramona Settle, Maria Simmons, Don Stark,<br />
Georgina Stubbs, Ben Stubenberg, Shaun Sullivan,<br />
Tom Tewksbury, Paul Wilkerson, Jack Williams.<br />
CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS<br />
Wavey Line Publishing<br />
PRINTING<br />
sou<strong>the</strong>astern, Hialeah, FL<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> ISSN 1017-6853 is<br />
published quarterly by <strong>Times</strong> Publications Ltd.<br />
Copyright © 20<strong>18</strong> by <strong>Times</strong> Publications Ltd. All rights reserved<br />
under Universal and Pan American Copyright Conventions.<br />
No part <strong>of</strong> this publication may be<br />
reproduced without written permission.<br />
Subscriptions $28/year; $32/year for<br />
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Submissions We welcome submission <strong>of</strong> articles or photography, but<br />
assume no responsibility for care and return <strong>of</strong> unsolicited material.<br />
Return postage must accompany material if it is to be returned. In no<br />
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While every care has been taken in <strong>the</strong> compilation and reproduction <strong>of</strong><br />
information contained herein to ensure correctness, such information is<br />
subject to change without notice. The publisher accepts no<br />
responsibility for such alterations or for typographical or o<strong>the</strong>r errors.<br />
WORLD TRAVEL AWARDS 2015 - CARIBBEAN’S LEADING BOUTIQUE HOTEL<br />
TCHTA STAR AWARDS 2016 - HOTEL OF THE YEAR<br />
TCHTA STAR AWARDS 2016 - RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR - GRACE’S COTTAGE<br />
PROVIDENCIALES TCI • US TOLL FREE 1.888.209.5582 • T 649.946.5096<br />
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12 www.timespub.tc
getting to know<br />
Meteorologist Paul Wilkerson created a Facebook page that provided an important service during Hurricanes<br />
Irma and Maria.<br />
A Silver Lining<br />
Paul Wilkerson’s interest in local wea<strong>the</strong>r proved essential this season.<br />
By Jody Rathgeb ~ Photos Courtesy Paul Wilkerson<br />
Lots <strong>of</strong> people come to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos and fall in love with its turquoise waters. Paul Wilkerson went<br />
fur<strong>the</strong>r. The American meteorologist extended his love to <strong>the</strong> TCI’s clouds, winds, rains, dry spells . . .<br />
and particularly to its people who live in this special climate. For <strong>the</strong>m, he created a Facebook page that<br />
focuses on local wea<strong>the</strong>r, not knowing how popular and essential it would become during Hurricanes<br />
Irma and Maria.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 13
Paul Wilkerson and his family first visited <strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />
Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> from <strong>the</strong>ir home in Arkansas in 2014. “We<br />
realized we really loved <strong>the</strong> people and <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>,” he<br />
says. “Feeling like that, I naturally wanted to find a way to<br />
help with wea<strong>the</strong>r.”<br />
That season brought a tropical storm that solidified<br />
his purpose. “I had been monitoring a few <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> local<br />
Facebook pages and many were discussing how <strong>the</strong>y<br />
were caught <strong>of</strong>f guard and were frustrated with <strong>the</strong> lack<br />
<strong>of</strong> information <strong>the</strong>y could receive. I figured I could provide<br />
a connection point for solid, reliable information if<br />
<strong>the</strong>y wanted to use it.”<br />
He knew he was <strong>the</strong> guy for <strong>the</strong> job because <strong>of</strong> his<br />
regular paying job: non-commissioned <strong>of</strong>ficer in charge<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Arkansas National Guard’s 154th Wea<strong>the</strong>r Flight<br />
unit, a position he has held since 2007. He has worked in<br />
meteorology for 23 years, completing <strong>the</strong> requirements<br />
for a Bachelor’s Degree in <strong>the</strong> field at Mississippi State<br />
University and <strong>the</strong> United States Air Force wea<strong>the</strong>r observing<br />
and forecasting course. He also worked for <strong>the</strong> U.S.<br />
federal government as a civilian meteorologist from 2001<br />
to 2007.<br />
“While my primary pr<strong>of</strong>ession is military, <strong>the</strong> wea<strong>the</strong>r<br />
page is something I do in my free time when I am not<br />
at work,” Wilkerson explains. He was already running a<br />
Facebook page devoted to his area <strong>of</strong> Arkansas when he<br />
decided to perform a similar service for TCI.<br />
Sourcing, sharing<br />
He named <strong>the</strong> page, naturally, “Turks and Caicos Wea<strong>the</strong>r<br />
Info.” At first, followers were people who lived in <strong>the</strong><br />
<strong>Islands</strong>, but <strong>the</strong> word spread. “Over time <strong>the</strong> page has<br />
morphed from a community information page to include<br />
travel wea<strong>the</strong>r information.” He says he tries to post a<br />
five-day forecast about every three days, although he will<br />
add posts to make corrections or discuss severe wea<strong>the</strong>r.<br />
He does <strong>the</strong> updates around his working hours, using his<br />
lunch break or posting before or after his <strong>of</strong>fice hours.<br />
“This is a personal page so I take care <strong>of</strong> it on my own<br />
time.”<br />
Wilkerson says <strong>the</strong> information on <strong>the</strong> page comes<br />
from many sources, including <strong>the</strong> National Hurricane<br />
Center, <strong>the</strong> Bahamas Meteorological Agency, <strong>the</strong> National<br />
Oceanographic and Atmospheric Administration and satellite<br />
photos <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Atlantic Ocean and Caribbean Sea.<br />
The Turks & Caicos are considered a “data sparse region,”<br />
so ga<strong>the</strong>ring as much information as possible is important,<br />
as well as having a meteorologist’s instinct. He can<br />
get fairly specific, he notes, able to say, for example,<br />
Even when home in Arkansas, Paul and Brande Wilkerson have <strong>the</strong><br />
Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>’ wea<strong>the</strong>r and people on <strong>the</strong>ir minds.<br />
“Hey, it should be raining over on Grace Bay, but Salt Cay,<br />
you guys are seeing mostly sunny skies.” He also pays<br />
attention to feedback on <strong>the</strong> page. “I always like to get<br />
‘on <strong>the</strong> ground’ information,” he says. “It helps increase<br />
<strong>the</strong> accuracy <strong>of</strong> forecasts, while also getting <strong>the</strong> people<br />
involved.”<br />
The meteorologist notes that he does not mean to<br />
replace wea<strong>the</strong>r information provided by <strong>the</strong> government<br />
through its Department <strong>of</strong> Disaster Management and<br />
Emergencies (DDME). “While I do provide relevant information,<br />
I always stress <strong>the</strong> importance [to Islanders] in<br />
listening to <strong>the</strong>ir local government <strong>of</strong>ficials as well as <strong>of</strong>ficial<br />
sources <strong>of</strong> information,” he says. “The government<br />
has <strong>the</strong>ir own operation channels, and <strong>the</strong>y are <strong>the</strong>re to<br />
provide for citizen safety.”<br />
Irma and Maria<br />
Having multiple sources <strong>of</strong> information proved to be<br />
invaluable during <strong>the</strong> hurricanes <strong>of</strong> <strong>2017</strong>, and it was<br />
during those stormy times that Wilkerson’s Facebook<br />
page soared in popularity and added to its mission.<br />
“During <strong>the</strong> run-up to Hurricane Irma, <strong>the</strong> web page saw<br />
astronomical growth within a matter <strong>of</strong> three weeks due<br />
to people looking for information,” he says. “Prior to <strong>the</strong><br />
hurricane, our monthly reach overall based on <strong>the</strong> site sta-<br />
14 www.timespub.tc
This Paul Wilkerson shot <strong>of</strong> a rainstorm approaching Whitby, North Caicos, is more typical <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> wea<strong>the</strong>r he sees during regular visits to <strong>the</strong><br />
Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. Hurricanes <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> power <strong>of</strong> Irma and Maria are quite uncommon!<br />
tistics was nearly 40,000 or so. The month <strong>of</strong> September<br />
alone, our reach was over 819,000!”<br />
Still working full time, Wilkerson met <strong>the</strong> challenge<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> storms. He watched as <strong>the</strong> barometric pressures<br />
in models <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> first disturbance over <strong>the</strong> open Atlantic<br />
Ocean stayed extremely low, indicating that a powerful<br />
storm was forming, and he says his heart sank when he<br />
saw <strong>the</strong> forecast tracks showed <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> in <strong>the</strong> bull’seye.<br />
“At that point, about five days out, it was time to<br />
start moving fast. After I would get <strong>of</strong>f work, I spent <strong>the</strong><br />
better part <strong>of</strong> six to eight hours at home doing nothing<br />
but wea<strong>the</strong>r and updates. I was getting up at 3:30 AM<br />
each morning so I could spend about three hours providing<br />
updates prior to heading to work. On <strong>the</strong> evening<br />
it hit, I believe I stayed up most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> night to provide<br />
information up to <strong>the</strong> point it was just passing near West<br />
Caicos. I got a few hours’ sleep, <strong>the</strong>n was up checking on<br />
friends and anyone I could.”<br />
He praises <strong>the</strong> support <strong>of</strong> his family during that<br />
time. His wife, Brande, was screening messages, getting<br />
information to him, helping to fix errors in posts and continuing<br />
to run a busy household with two daughters and<br />
multiple animals. “It was an absolute team effort between<br />
us,” he comments. “It was very special to me having her<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 15
Island Auto_Layout 1 12/12/17 12:49 PM Page 1<br />
ISLAND AUTO RENTALS<br />
For Quality & Reliable Service<br />
& Competitive Prices<br />
The Cruise Center, Grand Turk<br />
Neville Adams<br />
Tel: (649) 946-2042<br />
Cell: (649) 232-0933 or (649) 231-4214<br />
Email: nevilleadams@hotmail.com<br />
Providenciales<br />
Levoi Marshall<br />
Cell: (649) 441-6737<br />
Email: levoimarshall86@gmail.com<br />
Web: islandautorentalstci.com<br />
Ferry Fall 17_Layout 1 8/22/17 12:52 PM Page 1<br />
helping me and <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> through her dedication, too.”<br />
Meanwhile, at <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Facebook page,<br />
followers were checking <strong>the</strong>ir feeds frequently to get<br />
Wilkerson’s updates and sharing <strong>the</strong>m with both Islanders<br />
and relatives and friends in o<strong>the</strong>r countries. Many in <strong>the</strong><br />
U.S. were thankful to get information that <strong>the</strong>ir usual<br />
sources, such as The Wea<strong>the</strong>r Channel, were not sharing<br />
until <strong>the</strong> storm got closer to Florida.<br />
Then, after Irma hit <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>, Turks and Caicos<br />
Wea<strong>the</strong>r Info became more than a wea<strong>the</strong>r page. People<br />
were using it to find out about <strong>the</strong> status <strong>of</strong> island buildings<br />
and businesses and about <strong>the</strong> safety <strong>of</strong> family and<br />
friends. Wilkerson found himself a clearinghouse <strong>of</strong><br />
information as well as a meteorologist. “That can be hard<br />
because you have to sort through all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> information<br />
and try to determine what is real and true, and what is<br />
fodder and folks trying to capitalize for <strong>the</strong> sake <strong>of</strong> scamming<br />
or giving misinformation,” he recalls. “I tried really<br />
hard to vet everything and ensure that only accurate<br />
information was getting out through our channels.”<br />
Yet he was still doing wea<strong>the</strong>r as Hurricane Maria was<br />
approaching. “I monitored Maria as <strong>of</strong>ten as I could and<br />
tried to give timely updates. [The two storms] were similar<br />
in that <strong>the</strong>y developed in very good environments and<br />
took very similar tracks. And as we know, unfortunately<br />
Puerto Rico and o<strong>the</strong>rs <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Leeward <strong>Islands</strong> suffered<br />
much worse from Maria. TCI was very fortunate that<br />
Hurricane Maria made <strong>the</strong> turn when she did. TCI could<br />
have had a large number <strong>of</strong> deaths had Maria made a<br />
direct strike due to <strong>the</strong> amount <strong>of</strong> damage and compromised<br />
structures Irma left behind. Thankfully that didn’t<br />
happen.”<br />
* *<br />
Temporary suspension PROVO NORTH 12.30pm & 1.30pm Sept 1st to Oct 31st<br />
*<br />
Resumes Nov 1st<br />
Funding relief efforts<br />
The widening mission <strong>of</strong> Turks and Caicos Wea<strong>the</strong>r Info<br />
now included a relief fund that <strong>the</strong> Wilkersons began. “We<br />
had all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se new followers, and [we thought] it might<br />
be <strong>the</strong> right platform to try and help. It’s funny because<br />
at first, I think I had my sights set on $2,000 and Brande,<br />
I think, said $5,000. We would consider that a success. If<br />
you had told us at <strong>the</strong> beginning that our page would<br />
raise nearly $43,000, I might have laughed. But it shows<br />
you <strong>the</strong> compassion <strong>of</strong> people.”<br />
The fund drew more than 270 donors, and <strong>the</strong><br />
money was spread across many needs. Donations went<br />
to Pampered Paws, <strong>the</strong> Provo Rotary Club (to distribute to<br />
schools), TCI Boat Club (to help <strong>the</strong> elderly), Wellington<br />
Williams (early food distributions) and <strong>the</strong> TCI Reef Fund.<br />
Large portions <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> fund purchased such items as flash-<br />
16 www.timespub.tc
lights, mosquito repellent, sanitizer and feminine care<br />
products, which were sent to South Caicos via ferry, as<br />
that island was deemed most in need. Shipping and delivery<br />
efforts were helped by Tito and Atekah Seymour and<br />
Tom and Kate Tewksbury on Providenciales, and Earleen<br />
Elliott on South Caicos. Again, Wilkerson adds Brande to<br />
<strong>the</strong> list <strong>of</strong> helpers, as she was co-administrator <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
funds.<br />
TOM TEWKSBURY<br />
A large portion <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks and Caicos Wea<strong>the</strong>r Info hurricane relief<br />
fund purchased supplies that were sent to South Caicos via ferry.<br />
Walkin May<strong>2017</strong>_Layout 1 5/28/17 5:45 PM Page 1<br />
Wilkerson continues to monitor TCI wea<strong>the</strong>r and<br />
regularly update <strong>the</strong> Facebook page, and he and his<br />
family continue to visit <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>, staying at various<br />
places beyond <strong>the</strong> usual tourist spots. He says he would<br />
like to visit all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> country’s islands eventually. And<br />
as for wea<strong>the</strong>r, he notes that information for <strong>the</strong> TCI is<br />
improving all <strong>the</strong> time. He was impressed with <strong>the</strong> DDME<br />
response to Hurricanes Irma and Maria, including shelter<br />
and utility information. “Information from multiple reliable<br />
sources is key to overall success,” he notes.<br />
Drops <strong>of</strong> moisture in <strong>the</strong> air are just small things,<br />
separate and almost insignificant. But when a lot <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m<br />
come toge<strong>the</strong>r, <strong>the</strong>y are a cloud. Likewise, people who<br />
come toge<strong>the</strong>r, particularly in an emergency, are a community,<br />
a family. Given that, <strong>the</strong> Wilkersons <strong>of</strong> Arkansas<br />
are most certainly a part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI family. a<br />
Jody Rathgeb is a long-time contributor to <strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
<strong>Islands</strong>. She spent <strong>the</strong> hours before, during and after<br />
Hurricanes Irma and Maria monitoring <strong>the</strong> Turks and<br />
Caicos Wea<strong>the</strong>r Info page on Facebook and sharing it with<br />
o<strong>the</strong>rs. She made many new Facebook friends!<br />
DISTRIBUTOR DISTRIBUTOR FOR FOR EVINRUDE && MERCURY MERCURY<br />
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PHONE: 649-946-4411<br />
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<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 17
green pages<br />
newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />
head <strong>of</strong>fice: church folly, grand turk, tel 649 946 2801 • fax 649 946 <strong>18</strong>95<br />
• astwood street, south caicos, tel 649 946 3306 • fax 946 3710<br />
• national environmental centre, lower bight road, providenciales<br />
parks division, tel 649 941 5122 • fax 649 946 4793<br />
fisheries division, tel 649 946 4017 • fax 649 946 4793<br />
email environment@gov.tc or dema.tci@gmail.com • web www.environment.tc<br />
This is a fine example <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caicos pine, TCI’s National Tree, standing tall prior<br />
to <strong>the</strong> furious winds <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>2017</strong> hurricanes.<br />
Recovery 2<br />
How did <strong>the</strong> Caicos Pine Recovery Project fare after <strong>the</strong> <strong>2017</strong> hurricanes?<br />
Story & Photos By B Naqqi Manco, DECR Terrestrial Ecologist/ Environmental Officer<br />
Invasive scale insect, Mediterranean black aphid, sooty mould fungus, intense drought, flooding, out-<strong>of</strong>season<br />
wildfires . . . our Caicos pine, <strong>the</strong> National Tree <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, has had a difficult<br />
time <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> last 20 years. As two Category 5 hurricanes approached TCI in September <strong>2017</strong>, we had to<br />
secure <strong>the</strong> nursery, <strong>of</strong>fice base and seed orchard as much as possible.<br />
<strong>18</strong> www.timespub.tc
green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />
Trays <strong>of</strong> newly planted seeds were filed gently away<br />
under tables in <strong>the</strong> Government Farm packing house,<br />
and saplings were bundled toge<strong>the</strong>r and surrounded<br />
with makeshift cord fences in <strong>the</strong> nursery. As for <strong>the</strong><br />
field sites, we just had to hope for <strong>the</strong> best. The passage<br />
<strong>of</strong> Hurricanes Irma and Maria devastated infrastructure<br />
throughout <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>, and <strong>the</strong> weeks following saw <strong>the</strong><br />
Caicos Pine Recovery Project team reassigned to relief<br />
work. So <strong>the</strong> pines would have to wait.<br />
The first visit to <strong>the</strong> nursery after Irma was grim. The<br />
entire structure, which stood since 2009, was collapsed.<br />
Beams were broken, shade cloth was torn. Fortunately,<br />
most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> saplings were only barely damaged, though<br />
we lost a few. While <strong>the</strong> seed trays remained put, <strong>the</strong> wind<br />
and blowing rain introduced deadly damping-<strong>of</strong>f fungus,<br />
which meant out <strong>of</strong> over 10,000 seedlings planted, only<br />
a handful survived <strong>the</strong>ir crucial first weeks. Numerous<br />
trees in <strong>the</strong> seed orchard were blown over, and following<br />
Hurricane Maria (which blew in from <strong>the</strong> opposite directions<br />
as Irma) many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m were toppled <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r way,<br />
sustaining root damage. Weakened, <strong>the</strong>y were attacked<br />
aggressively by pine tortoise scale.<br />
The field sites faired somewhat better, though access<br />
trails and firebreaks were largely filled with blown vegetation.<br />
Our Middle Caicos research canopy was destroyed,<br />
but <strong>the</strong> Caicos Pine Yard Trail signs and markers were<br />
unsca<strong>the</strong>d. Surprisingly, only a few large pines were<br />
blown over, but numerous newly planted saplings in <strong>the</strong><br />
Diamond Jubilee Pine Yard were toppled and had to be<br />
propped up; several were lost from intense root damage.<br />
Thankfully, we had been able to make early cone collections<br />
from both Pine Cay and Middle Caicos several<br />
weeks before <strong>the</strong> storms, and so <strong>the</strong> fact that cones and<br />
seeds were mostly blown away was not much <strong>of</strong> a threat<br />
to <strong>the</strong> project. After things began returning to normal,<br />
<strong>the</strong> cones were cleaned and we now have several thousand<br />
seeds to plant again. The downed trees in <strong>the</strong> seed<br />
orchard were propped back up (though we did lose a<br />
few), and <strong>the</strong> nursery trees were pruned and cleaned up.<br />
Following <strong>the</strong> storms, we decided to expand Caicos<br />
Pine Awareness Week, originally <strong>the</strong> first week <strong>of</strong><br />
December, to include <strong>the</strong> entire month <strong>of</strong> December. With<br />
media spots, tree plantings and a Christmas tree lighting<br />
ceremony, Caicos pines featured prominently through <strong>the</strong><br />
The Caicos Pine Recovery Project Nursery at <strong>the</strong> Government Farm was completely destroyed by Hurricane Irma. Materials for its rebuild<br />
(lumber, nails, shade cloth and ground cloth) are sorely needed.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 19
green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />
From top: An important study tree in <strong>the</strong> strongest remaining Caicos<br />
pine population in Middle Caicos was blown over, but it may survive<br />
if its roots were not too badly damaged.<br />
A Caicos pine sapling at <strong>the</strong> DECR Native Plant Garden in Kew, North<br />
Caicos was planted by primary school students.<br />
month. On December 6, <strong>2017</strong>, <strong>the</strong> first Caicos pine to<br />
be planted at <strong>the</strong> TCI Government property was set into<br />
<strong>the</strong> ground at <strong>the</strong> National Environmental Centre on <strong>the</strong><br />
Lower Bight Road by students from Ian<strong>the</strong> Pratt Primary<br />
School. The following day, students from Charles Hubert<br />
James Primary School helped plant an additional Caicos<br />
pine sapling in <strong>the</strong> DECR Native Plant Garden in Kew,<br />
North Caicos. For <strong>the</strong> first time, one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caicos pines<br />
planted in this garden three years ago was featured as <strong>the</strong><br />
community Christmas tree for <strong>the</strong> lighting ceremony on<br />
December 22.<br />
There’s still a lot <strong>of</strong> work to do towards bringing <strong>the</strong><br />
Caicos Pine Recovery Project back to its full capacity. Our<br />
priority is rebuilding <strong>the</strong> nursery, though new materials<br />
(lumber, nails, shade cloth and ground cloth) are sorely<br />
needed. Intense rain following <strong>the</strong> hurricanes has flooded<br />
many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> field sites, so work <strong>the</strong>re is delayed—but <strong>the</strong>y<br />
all require extensive trail and firebreak clearing, barrier<br />
repair and ground work.<br />
You can help with <strong>the</strong> recovery efforts toward protection<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caicos pine for future generations by<br />
donations into <strong>the</strong> DECR/Caicos Pine Recovery Project<br />
account at Sunshine Nursery in Providenciales! a<br />
20 www.timespub.tc
green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />
Until <strong>the</strong> 1980s when a coral disease attacked, Elkhorn corals were one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most common reef-building corals in <strong>the</strong> Caribbean.<br />
To <strong>the</strong> RESCQ<br />
Saving Grand Turk’s precious coral after <strong>the</strong> hurricanes.<br />
Story & Photos By Don Stark, Chairman, Turks & Caicos Reef Fund<br />
In September <strong>2017</strong>, back-to-back hurricanes severely damaged <strong>the</strong> island <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk (as well as<br />
o<strong>the</strong>r islands in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos). But not all <strong>the</strong> damage was readily visible. At <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn tip <strong>of</strong><br />
Grand Turk, in about four to six feet <strong>of</strong> water, <strong>the</strong>re exists a lovely stand <strong>of</strong> critically endangered Elkhorn<br />
coral (Acropora palmata). Elkhorn corals are large, fairly fast growing, branching corals that, up until<br />
<strong>the</strong> 1980s, were one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most common reef-building corals that protected beaches throughout <strong>the</strong><br />
Caribbean. Unfortunately, a coral disease attacked Elkhorn corals throughout <strong>the</strong> region and virtually<br />
wiped <strong>the</strong>m out. So protecting <strong>the</strong> remaining healthy Elkhorn reefs is important.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 21
green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />
22 www.timespub.tc<br />
Sadly, many large branches were broken <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong><br />
Elkhorn corals on <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn tip <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk by <strong>the</strong><br />
waves generated by <strong>the</strong> hurricanes. Some may have naturally<br />
survived, as this is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> methods by which<br />
Elkhorn coral propagate, but many were laying in sand<br />
and would likely have died.<br />
The Turks & Caicos Reef Fund (TCRF), <strong>the</strong> only<br />
active environmental non-governmental organization<br />
in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, was contacted by DECR<br />
Environmental Officer Katharine Hart to see if <strong>the</strong>re<br />
was anything that could be done to save <strong>the</strong>se critically<br />
endangered corals. Fortunately, <strong>the</strong> TCRF was already<br />
working on propagating Elkhorn corals in a nursery set<br />
up a year earlier <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> northwest coast <strong>of</strong> Providenciales<br />
and agreed to assist with <strong>the</strong> rescue effort.<br />
The TCRF’s coral nursery work is funded through<br />
a European Union programme called BEST (Voluntary<br />
Scheme for Biodiversity and Ecosystem Services in<br />
Territories <strong>of</strong> European Overseas). The grant was awarded<br />
to Wageningen Marine Research based in <strong>the</strong> Ne<strong>the</strong>rlands<br />
and <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos Reef Fund is one <strong>of</strong> four organizations<br />
selected to work with <strong>the</strong> Dutch researchers on<br />
this research project. It is called RESCQ (Restoration <strong>of</strong><br />
Ecosystem Services and Coral Reef Quality). The goal is<br />
to test a new type <strong>of</strong> nursery set-up—attaching corals to<br />
bamboo poles suspended by ropes on each end—what<br />
are called coral ladders. The design keeps <strong>the</strong> corals suspended<br />
in <strong>the</strong> water column where <strong>the</strong>y can have easy<br />
access to all <strong>the</strong> nutrients and sunlight <strong>the</strong>y need to grow.<br />
Following <strong>the</strong> storms, Katharine Hart ga<strong>the</strong>red up<br />
many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> broken pieces <strong>of</strong> Elkhorn coral and placed<br />
<strong>the</strong>m in improvised trays placed on cinder blocks to keep<br />
<strong>the</strong>m <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> sand until TCRF staff and volunteers could<br />
install <strong>the</strong> coral ladders. A total <strong>of</strong> four ladders have been<br />
installed <strong>of</strong>f shore from Governor’s Beach on Grand Turk,<br />
not far from <strong>the</strong> Biorock structure that was set up a number<br />
<strong>of</strong> years ago in an earlier effort to grow corals.<br />
The salvaged pieces <strong>of</strong> coral were frequently too large<br />
for <strong>the</strong> ladders, so were broken into smaller pieces with a<br />
hammer and chisel. Each fragment is measured and photographed<br />
with its identification tag before it is hung on a<br />
ladder, using mon<strong>of</strong>ilament line to secure <strong>the</strong>m. The line<br />
is quickly grown over so that within a few weeks, where<br />
At left, from top: This is a large piece <strong>of</strong> broken Elkhorn coral before<br />
fragmenting. Here are multiple pieces <strong>of</strong> Elkhorn coral after fragmenting,<br />
ready to be used in <strong>the</strong> nursery. This fully populated coral ladder<br />
keeps <strong>the</strong> corals suspended so <strong>the</strong>y have easy access to nutrients<br />
and sunlight.
green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />
<strong>the</strong> mon<strong>of</strong>ilament touches live coral it is covered with live<br />
coral. So many fragments <strong>of</strong> coral were salvaged that <strong>the</strong><br />
four ladders were quickly filled with 261 coral fragments.<br />
It is expected that <strong>the</strong>se corals will begin growing<br />
again and will do so fairly quickly. The Elkhorn corals<br />
in <strong>the</strong> Providenciales nursery nearly doubled in size in<br />
six to nine months, after which <strong>the</strong>y are refragmented<br />
(broken into smaller pieces) and returned to <strong>the</strong> nursery.<br />
Eventually, all <strong>the</strong> nursery corals will be returned to<br />
<strong>the</strong> reefs from which <strong>the</strong>y were collected in an effort to<br />
re-establish healthy growths <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se important corals<br />
throughout <strong>the</strong> TCI. After just a month in <strong>the</strong> Grand Turk<br />
nursery, <strong>the</strong>re is already evidence <strong>of</strong> new growth on many<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> corals and wounds caused by <strong>the</strong> storms and <strong>the</strong><br />
fragmenting <strong>of</strong> larger pieces are beginning to heal.<br />
The biggest challenge in keeping <strong>the</strong> corals healthy<br />
and growing is controlling algal growth on <strong>the</strong> ladders<br />
and on wound sites on <strong>the</strong> corals <strong>the</strong>mselves. At least<br />
biweekly trips to <strong>the</strong> nursery are required by scuba diver<br />
volunteers, DECR staff and TCRF staff using toothbrushes<br />
to remove algae from <strong>the</strong> coral fragments.<br />
Eventually, <strong>the</strong> corals will be transplanted back to <strong>the</strong><br />
reef site. Two techniques will be used to secure <strong>the</strong> fragments.<br />
The first is direct attachment to hard substrate<br />
(rock) using cement or epoxy. This technique will be used<br />
for larger fragments. The o<strong>the</strong>r technique is to use mon<strong>of</strong>ilament<br />
line to attach smaller coral fragments to a rebar<br />
structure secured to <strong>the</strong> sea floor. Eventually, <strong>the</strong> rebar<br />
will be invisible as it will be completely grown over by <strong>the</strong><br />
corals.<br />
In <strong>the</strong> end, it took a team effort by <strong>the</strong> DECR, TCRF,<br />
Bohio Resort dive staff and Blue Water Divers dive staff to<br />
save so many critically endangered corals that would have<br />
been o<strong>the</strong>rwise lost. In a few years, this post-hurricane<br />
effort will yield healthy new stands <strong>of</strong> Elkhorn coral <strong>of</strong>f<br />
<strong>the</strong> coast <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk. a<br />
From top: This fragment <strong>of</strong> Elkhorn coral is already showing new<br />
growth fingers. Attaching coral fragments to a rebar structure is one<br />
way to transplant <strong>the</strong> corals back to <strong>the</strong> reef site.<br />
About TCRF<br />
Founded in 2010, <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos Reef Fund is <strong>the</strong><br />
only active environmental advocacy organization in <strong>the</strong><br />
TCI. It is an all volunteer-run organization that provides<br />
funding for education, research and conservation programs<br />
to individuals, organizations and agencies that<br />
help to preserve and protect <strong>the</strong> environment <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. Our goal is to have at least 85%<br />
<strong>of</strong> all funds raised through voluntary contributions from<br />
divers and snorkelers visiting <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong><br />
directed to <strong>the</strong> Fund’s programs.<br />
Anyone wishing to donate or assist <strong>the</strong> TCRF in any<br />
way can contact <strong>the</strong>m at www.TCReef.org. Scuba divers<br />
visiting <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> are encouraged to make a $10<br />
donation through <strong>the</strong> purchase <strong>of</strong> a dive tag that can<br />
be attached to <strong>the</strong>ir dive gear to show <strong>the</strong>ir support.<br />
Snorkelers can show <strong>the</strong>ir support through <strong>the</strong> $5 purchase<br />
<strong>of</strong> a pink or blue silicone wristband. A complete<br />
list <strong>of</strong> outlets for TCRF merchandise can be found on <strong>the</strong><br />
organization’s website.<br />
NOTE: This document has been produced with <strong>the</strong> financial<br />
assistance <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> European Union. The contents <strong>of</strong><br />
this document are <strong>the</strong> sole responsibility <strong>of</strong> Wangeningen<br />
Marine Research and <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos Reef Fund and<br />
can under no circumstances be regarded as reflecting <strong>the</strong><br />
position <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> European Union.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 23
green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />
The Arch is a 10 metre dive site <strong>of</strong>f South Caicos. Schools <strong>of</strong> fish were observed in this area, post-Hurricanes Irma and Maria.<br />
Go Gently<br />
The delicate nature <strong>of</strong> coral reefs.<br />
By Dr. Aaron C. Henderson & Dr. Heidi Hertler, The School for Field Studies,<br />
Center for Marine Resource Studies, South Caicos ~ Photos By Dr. Heidi Hertler<br />
Coral reefs are perhaps <strong>the</strong> most visually stunning ecosystems in <strong>the</strong> marine environment. Often<br />
described as <strong>the</strong> “rainforests <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sea,” <strong>the</strong>y abound with colourful life, ranging from <strong>the</strong> corals <strong>the</strong>mselves<br />
to <strong>the</strong> multitude <strong>of</strong> fish species that dart around <strong>the</strong> reef. Unfortunately, <strong>the</strong>y are also one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
most threatened ecosystems on <strong>the</strong> planet, and prominent coral scientists have predicted that <strong>the</strong>se<br />
wonderful oases <strong>of</strong> biodiversity and productivity might become a rarity within <strong>the</strong> next 10 to 20 years.<br />
24 www.timespub.tc
green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />
The threats that coral reefs face are numerous.<br />
Diseases caused by bacteria, viruses and fungi have<br />
become increasingly common in recent decades. Coral<br />
bleaching events have also become more prevalent; <strong>the</strong><br />
last year has seen Australia’s Great Barrier Reef experience<br />
a 29% decline in live coral due to bleaching, with<br />
some areas <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> reef losing as much as 70% <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir live<br />
coral. Overfishing and destructive fishing practices also<br />
impact <strong>the</strong> health <strong>of</strong> coral reefs by disrupting <strong>the</strong>ir natural<br />
ecological process and by causing physical damage to<br />
<strong>the</strong> reef structure.<br />
Coastal development is ano<strong>the</strong>r major cause for<br />
concern. Coral reefs are intricately linked to mangrove<br />
forests through ecological connectivity (for example,<br />
many reef fish live among <strong>the</strong> mangrove roots early in<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir life, where <strong>the</strong>y are provided with abundant food<br />
and protection from larger predators, before moving<br />
out to <strong>the</strong> reef to complete <strong>the</strong> adult phase <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir life).<br />
Fur<strong>the</strong>rmore, <strong>the</strong> mangroves bind sediments that might<br />
o<strong>the</strong>rwise be carried onto <strong>the</strong> reef by water currents,<br />
covering <strong>the</strong> corals and eventually smo<strong>the</strong>ring <strong>the</strong>m.<br />
Unfortunately, mangroves tend to be <strong>the</strong> first casualties<br />
<strong>of</strong> coastal development, removed to provide space for<br />
marinas, promenades or beaches. The increased development<br />
brings more people to <strong>the</strong>se coastal areas,<br />
resulting in more pollution, more water-based activity,<br />
and a greater demand for seafood—all <strong>of</strong> which add to<br />
<strong>the</strong> environmental stress.<br />
Then we have <strong>the</strong> big one: climate change. While <strong>the</strong><br />
most publicised effect <strong>of</strong> climate change is <strong>the</strong> increase<br />
in air and sea temperature, o<strong>the</strong>rwise known as global<br />
warming, this is only half <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> problem when it comes<br />
to <strong>the</strong> marine environment (albeit a huge problem, and<br />
one associated with <strong>the</strong> aforementioned diseases and<br />
coral bleaching events). Sometimes referred to as “global<br />
warming’s evil twin,” ocean acidification is quite possibly<br />
<strong>the</strong> biggest threat to not only coral reefs, but to<br />
<strong>the</strong> oceans as a whole. At <strong>the</strong> onset <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Industrial<br />
Revolution, <strong>the</strong> concentration <strong>of</strong> atmospheric carbon<br />
dioxide was approximately 270 parts per million (ppm),<br />
<strong>the</strong> same level that it had been for <strong>the</strong> preceding 10,000<br />
years. Since <strong>the</strong>n, <strong>the</strong> concentration <strong>of</strong> atmospheric carbon<br />
dioxide has increased to over 400 ppm due mainly<br />
to <strong>the</strong> burning <strong>of</strong> fossil fuels—an increase <strong>of</strong> 33% in less<br />
than 300 years.<br />
A large proportion <strong>of</strong> atmospheric carbon dioxide<br />
From top: SFS CMRS staff perform <strong>the</strong> first visual survey <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> area<br />
around The Plane on South Caicos since Hurricanes Irma and Maria<br />
struck. Shallow reefs absorb much <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> energy associated with<br />
storms. The reefs <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> south end <strong>of</strong> Long Key are still thriving.<br />
is absorbed by <strong>the</strong> oceans, so increased atmospheric<br />
carbon dioxide naturally leads to increased carbon dioxide<br />
in <strong>the</strong> water, and this is where <strong>the</strong> problem <strong>of</strong> ocean<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 25
green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />
acidification begins. Carbon dioxide molecules and water<br />
molecules react to form carbonic acid, but carbonic acid<br />
is a relatively unstable molecule and quite readily breaks<br />
apart into two components, namely hydrogen ions and<br />
bicarbonate. It is <strong>the</strong> increase in hydrogen ions that is<br />
reducing <strong>the</strong> pH <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ocean, causing it to become more<br />
acidic. The bad news for animals that produce hard structures<br />
such as shells, and our corals that produce <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
characteristic limestone skeleton, is that <strong>the</strong> decreasing<br />
pH <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> oceans causes <strong>the</strong>se structures to dissolve.<br />
Studies on small marine molluscs known as sea butterflies<br />
have shown that <strong>the</strong>ir shells completely dissolve in a<br />
matter <strong>of</strong> days at pH levels that our oceans are predicted<br />
to reach by <strong>the</strong> middle <strong>of</strong> this century.<br />
But again, this is only one part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> problem.<br />
Carbonate is a substance that occurs naturally in ocean<br />
water, and many organisms combine it with calcium to<br />
produce <strong>the</strong>ir shells. Corals also use it to produce <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
stony skeleton—<strong>the</strong> very framework <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> reef. But, carbonate<br />
and hydrogen ions are naturally attracted to each<br />
o<strong>the</strong>r and <strong>the</strong>y bind toge<strong>the</strong>r to form ano<strong>the</strong>r bicarbonate.<br />
Although this process helps to reduce <strong>the</strong> rate <strong>of</strong> acidification<br />
by trapping <strong>the</strong> hydrogen ions in <strong>the</strong> bicarbonate<br />
molecule, it has <strong>the</strong> unwanted effect <strong>of</strong> also trapping<br />
<strong>the</strong> carbonate, meaning that <strong>the</strong>re is less free carbonate<br />
available for animals that use it to form <strong>the</strong>ir shells or<br />
skeletons. So our corals are facing a two-pronged ocean<br />
acidification attack: on one side <strong>the</strong> decreasing pH <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
ocean makes <strong>the</strong>ir skeletons more prone to dissolution,<br />
and on <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r side <strong>the</strong>re is less carbonate available to<br />
<strong>the</strong>m to form <strong>the</strong>ir skeletons in <strong>the</strong> first place!<br />
In <strong>the</strong> grand scheme <strong>of</strong> things, human impacts are a<br />
relatively recent problem for coral reefs. Bearing in mind<br />
that <strong>the</strong> coral reefs we see today have been growing for<br />
thousands, and in some cases millions <strong>of</strong> years, <strong>the</strong>y have<br />
obviously had to contend with entirely natural sources <strong>of</strong><br />
disruption during <strong>the</strong>ir formation. Wave action, storms<br />
and hurricanes are just some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> natural phenomena<br />
that shape <strong>the</strong> reefs and control <strong>the</strong>ir development. Even<br />
reefs that are geographically close to each o<strong>the</strong>r can be<br />
dominated by entirely different coral species, depending<br />
on <strong>the</strong> physical conditions locally. Reefs that are found in<br />
areas with constant wave action tend to be dominated by<br />
robust boulder-like coral species, while <strong>the</strong> more delicate<br />
branching species are limited to less energetic environments.<br />
However, even <strong>the</strong> most sheltered coral reefs<br />
From top: The hurricanes didn’t seem to have affected <strong>the</strong> thriving<br />
schools <strong>of</strong> fish on South Caicos reefs, although some fragmentation<br />
<strong>of</strong> corals was observed.<br />
are prone to occasional high-energy wave action during<br />
storms and hurricanes, and <strong>the</strong> frequency <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se events<br />
will have a strong controlling effect on <strong>the</strong> types <strong>of</strong> living<br />
coral present at any one time.<br />
26 www.timespub.tc
green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />
Above: On <strong>the</strong> South Caicos reefs, coral are healthy and <strong>the</strong> system is<br />
thriving at 10 metres.<br />
And so, with all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> potential challenges that <strong>the</strong>y<br />
face, how have <strong>the</strong> coral reefs <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />
<strong>Islands</strong> fared? The good news is that <strong>the</strong>y are actually<br />
among <strong>the</strong> healthiest <strong>of</strong> all <strong>the</strong> reefs in <strong>the</strong> tropical western<br />
Atlantic. That is not to say that <strong>the</strong>y are in absolutely<br />
pristine condition—ocean acidification is a global problem,<br />
and coastal development continues to be a matter<br />
for concern, but our reefs have been relatively free <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
disease outbreaks and mass bleaching events that have<br />
afflicted coral reefs elsewhere.<br />
At <strong>the</strong> SFS Center for Marine Resource Studies on<br />
South Caicos, we undertake research on many aspects<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> local marine environment, ranging from <strong>the</strong> biology<br />
and ecology <strong>of</strong> key species and ecosystems, to<br />
<strong>the</strong> impacts <strong>of</strong> exploitation and resource management<br />
approaches. Naturally, this means that we spend a great<br />
deal <strong>of</strong> time in <strong>the</strong> water actively studying and passively<br />
observing <strong>the</strong> wonderful underwater world <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks<br />
& Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
Our staff have been involved in marine research all<br />
over <strong>the</strong> world, but <strong>the</strong>re is a definite consensus among<br />
us that <strong>the</strong>re is nowhere quite like this place. So, after <strong>the</strong><br />
<strong>Islands</strong> were pummelled by Hurricanes Irma and Maria<br />
this year, we feared that many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> reefs might have<br />
experienced catastrophic damage. With <strong>the</strong> help <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
East Bay Resort and Split Finger Ltd. on South Caicos we<br />
set out to assess <strong>the</strong> impacts. Thankfully, most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
sites that we visited were still in very good condition.<br />
Some extensive damage was observed on shallow reefs<br />
down to depths <strong>of</strong> around four metres, but below this it<br />
was more or less business as usual. Some coral colonies<br />
had been broken or cracked by <strong>the</strong> wave action, but <strong>the</strong>y<br />
were still alive, and <strong>the</strong> fish populations were as vibrant<br />
as ever. Given <strong>the</strong> magnitude <strong>of</strong> Hurricane Irma in particular,<br />
and considering <strong>the</strong> destruction it caused on land,<br />
<strong>the</strong> reefs <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos appear to have had a very<br />
lucky escape.<br />
Looking to <strong>the</strong> future, it is to be hoped that <strong>the</strong> coral<br />
reefs <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> will continue to thrive.<br />
It will take some time for damaged areas to fully recover,<br />
but as long as we can minimise negative human impacts,<br />
recover <strong>the</strong>y will. Climate change, including ocean acidification,<br />
is a global problem that can only be tackled on a<br />
global scale, but <strong>the</strong>re is still a lot that we can do locally<br />
to help promote <strong>the</strong> health and vitality <strong>of</strong> our precious<br />
coral reefs. a<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 27
NASA IMAGE LIBRARY
feature<br />
DOMINICK ROLLE GARY JAMES–PROVO PICTURES<br />
Opposite page: The eye <strong>of</strong> Hurricane Irma is clearly visible from <strong>the</strong><br />
International Space Station as it orbited over <strong>the</strong> Category 5 storm on<br />
September 5, <strong>2017</strong>.<br />
Above: In spite <strong>of</strong> incredible devastation, TCI’s resilient spirit showed<br />
up in smiles, compassion and care—hope in <strong>the</strong> face <strong>of</strong> tragedy.<br />
BEN STUBENGERG<br />
GARY JAMES–PROVO PICTURES<br />
TCI Strong<br />
Facing <strong>the</strong> fury <strong>of</strong> Hurricanes Irma and Maria.<br />
By Ben Stubenberg<br />
For eyes reading <strong>the</strong>se words today or 100 years from now, know this: When Hurricanes Irma and Maria<br />
tore across <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> in September <strong>2017</strong>, <strong>the</strong> people <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se beautiful islands united as<br />
one. Well-<strong>of</strong>f or struggling, <strong>the</strong>y helped each o<strong>the</strong>r selflessly and without claim for credit. This was <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
moment, and <strong>the</strong>y stood tall and strong. This is <strong>the</strong>ir story.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 29
Tuesday evening, September 5, <strong>2017</strong>. Forty-eight<br />
hours away, and smart phones flicker with time-lapse<br />
images <strong>of</strong> a giant rotating mass <strong>of</strong> white careening<br />
towards TCI for a dead centre hit. Short, anxious text<br />
messages quicken with each screen update. “Surely, it will<br />
veer to <strong>the</strong> north and out to open sea,” goes <strong>the</strong> hopeful<br />
chatter among residents. “It always does. We’ll catch<br />
some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> storm, but it won’t be bad.” But <strong>the</strong> monster<br />
Category 5 hurricane stays on track and doesn’t turn<br />
north. Reality approaches and <strong>the</strong> gut tightens.<br />
Cars crowd back into building supply stores where<br />
folks snap up <strong>the</strong> last remaining sheets <strong>of</strong> plywood. They<br />
top <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> gas tank one more time before stopping by<br />
<strong>the</strong> supermarket to buy a few extra cases <strong>of</strong> water that<br />
are suddenly rationed to one per customer. Tarps, petrol<br />
containers and flashlight D batteries are long gone.<br />
Wednesday evening and twenty-four hours to go.<br />
Updates show <strong>the</strong> path has swerved a shade south. That<br />
means South Caicos, Salt Cay and Grand Turk will bear<br />
<strong>the</strong> brunt while blasting <strong>the</strong> south shore Providenciales<br />
communities <strong>of</strong> Long Bay, Discovery Bay, Five Cays and<br />
Chalk Sound. The sky turns to velvety cream as <strong>the</strong> wait<br />
begins. But it’s still calm, <strong>the</strong> way it’s supposed to be<br />
before <strong>the</strong> storm. No one wants to shutter in just yet.<br />
So in <strong>the</strong> pleasant wea<strong>the</strong>r, people ga<strong>the</strong>r at <strong>the</strong> bars<br />
still open or on a neighbour’s porch, like <strong>the</strong>y would<br />
for a relaxing evening after work. An easy camaraderie<br />
fills familiar haunts as glasses are raised and big smiles<br />
greet friends and strangers alike, all sharing a foreboding<br />
sense <strong>of</strong> anticipation.<br />
As much preparation as everyone has made, no one<br />
can really be sure if <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong> will hold. Or if <strong>the</strong> rain or<br />
a storm surge will bring a flood <strong>of</strong> mud into <strong>the</strong> living<br />
room. Or if life’s possessions will just blow away. The<br />
angst deepens as pictures pop up <strong>of</strong> Hurricane Irma’s<br />
trail <strong>of</strong> destruction in <strong>the</strong> Lesser Antilles and <strong>the</strong> Godzilla<br />
<strong>of</strong> storms, <strong>the</strong> strongest ever in <strong>the</strong> North Atlantic, shows<br />
no sign <strong>of</strong> weakening for us. But nobody gives in to fear.<br />
“See you on <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r side!” friends call out with some<br />
dark humour, as <strong>the</strong>y head back to what <strong>the</strong>y hope will<br />
still be home tomorrow.<br />
Thursday morning, twelve hours out. A big gust<br />
swooshes against <strong>the</strong> house and brings a sharp, audible<br />
creak to <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong>, as <strong>the</strong> windows clatter. The brain<br />
pumps out <strong>the</strong> first shot <strong>of</strong> dopamine that focuses <strong>the</strong><br />
mind when preparing for <strong>the</strong> worst. It’s really coming.<br />
The heart skips two beats. More hours pass, and <strong>the</strong> gusts<br />
slam harder and more <strong>of</strong>ten. Walls start shuddering while<br />
loosened gutters clang relentlessly against <strong>the</strong> eaves.<br />
At 10 PM, Irma unleashes <strong>the</strong> full measure <strong>of</strong> her fury,<br />
engulfing our little islands that barely protrude above a<br />
turquoise sea, now whipped into a madding frenzy.<br />
The Internet drops <strong>of</strong>f, phones go dead, lights flitter<br />
out. Flashlights are turned on and candles lit. Outside,<br />
sustained winds reach a hyper-dangerous record-breaking<br />
175 mph (280 kmh) with gusts reaching over 200<br />
mph (320 kmh), hurling sticks, branches and tile like bullets<br />
through <strong>the</strong> air. Trees bend, <strong>the</strong>n snap, <strong>the</strong>n uproot,<br />
tossed about as easily as chopsticks. The first ro<strong>of</strong>s start<br />
peeling back as Hurricane Irma bears down on every<br />
This satellite image shows Hurricane Irma on<br />
September 7, <strong>2017</strong>, with <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong><br />
dead in its sights.<br />
30 www.timespub.tc
home with all her power, howling and scratching like an<br />
angry animal trying to get in.<br />
BEN STUBENGERG<br />
GARY JAMES–PROVO PICTURES MARTA MORTON—WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM<br />
Hurricane beginnings<br />
The journey starts in early August half a world away with<br />
ripples in <strong>the</strong> sky high above <strong>the</strong> highlands <strong>of</strong> Ethiopia,<br />
Sudan and <strong>the</strong> Nile Valley. Hot air rises from <strong>the</strong> sandy,<br />
rocky surface and drifts lazily west over <strong>the</strong> Sahara Desert<br />
before clashing with <strong>the</strong> cooler air from humid jungles<br />
<strong>of</strong> Central and West Africa. The unstable mass spills out<br />
over <strong>the</strong> Atlantic Ocean toward <strong>the</strong> Cape Verde <strong>Islands</strong>,<br />
<strong>the</strong> spawning zone for <strong>the</strong> most tempestuous <strong>of</strong> wea<strong>the</strong>r.<br />
As <strong>the</strong> wind flows over <strong>the</strong> warm ocean, <strong>the</strong> surface <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> water evaporates and triggers ano<strong>the</strong>r cycle <strong>of</strong> rising<br />
air. The air is cooled at <strong>the</strong> higher elevation, forming large<br />
cumulus clouds <strong>of</strong> water droplets that fall back to <strong>the</strong> surface,<br />
generating a circulation <strong>of</strong> energy. As happens when<br />
<strong>the</strong> sea is particularly warm, July through November, more<br />
water evaporates and creates ever-bigger clouds that can<br />
intensify into tropical depressions and <strong>the</strong>n storms. At<br />
this point <strong>the</strong>y are given a name from an alphabetical list,<br />
alternating male and female, drawn up by <strong>the</strong> National<br />
Hurricane Center in Miami, Florida. The ninth Atlantic<br />
storm <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>2017</strong> season gets <strong>the</strong> name Irma.<br />
Most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> time, <strong>the</strong>se storms dissipate well before<br />
<strong>the</strong>y reach <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ocean, but a few, like Irma,<br />
streng<strong>the</strong>n into hurricanes (more than 74 mph/1<strong>18</strong> kmh<br />
sustained winds). Since <strong>the</strong> storms develop in <strong>the</strong> middle<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ocean far from measuring devices, scientists lack<br />
precise data to determine when or exactly why any given<br />
storm will explode into a full blown hurricane or simply<br />
fizzle out. But satellites provide clear visuals showing <strong>the</strong><br />
beginnings <strong>of</strong> a counterclockwise spiral around an eye <strong>of</strong><br />
calmness, influenced by <strong>the</strong> Coriolis effect <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> earth’s<br />
rotation, as <strong>the</strong> hurricane churns across <strong>the</strong> vast Atlantic.<br />
Irma’s threat is not readily apparent at first, as<br />
it bumps up to a Category 3 and <strong>the</strong>n back down to a<br />
Category 2 while still in mid-ocean—bad, but manageable.<br />
But in late August, as she lurches towards <strong>the</strong><br />
Caribbean, Irma suddenly streng<strong>the</strong>ns into a massive<br />
Category 5 with sustained winds <strong>of</strong> more than 155 mph<br />
(248 kmh). The gyrating arms grow rapidly too and<br />
extend out 400 miles. She shows no mercy for <strong>the</strong> first<br />
tiny islands in her path, bringing death and devastation<br />
to Dominica, Barbuda, St. Martin and <strong>the</strong> Virgin <strong>Islands</strong><br />
before bumping up to skirt <strong>the</strong> north coast <strong>of</strong> Puerto Rico<br />
and Hispaniola. Next in her sights? The 40 islands and<br />
cays in <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn Lucayan archipelago that we call<br />
home—<strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
From top: The sheer force <strong>of</strong> Hurricane Irma’s Category 5 winds is<br />
displayed across Providenciales. On Leeward Highway, a toppled cell<br />
tower destroyed <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong> a tire repair and sales shop.<br />
The force <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> wind spun this sunken boat completely around,<br />
smashing it into <strong>the</strong> dock at Harbour Club Marina.<br />
This aerial view <strong>of</strong> Chalk Sound shows a villa with its top floor “gone<br />
with <strong>the</strong> wind.” Residents suspect a series <strong>of</strong> tornados were spawned<br />
by <strong>the</strong> storm.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 31
TWATIMES_Layout 1 2/16/17 7:49 AM Page 1<br />
Serving international & domestic clients in real estate, property development,<br />
mortgages, corporate & commercial matters, immigration, & more.<br />
TEL 649.946.4261 TMW@TMWLAW.TC WWW.TWAMARCELINWOLF.COM<br />
Hugh final_Layout 1 5/29/17 1:15 PM Page 1<br />
P<br />
E<br />
R<br />
S<br />
HUGH G. O’NEILL<br />
&<br />
ATTORNEYSN<br />
AT<br />
L AW<br />
P.O. Box 267<br />
Hibernian House<br />
1136 Leeward Highway<br />
Providenciales<br />
Turks and Caicos <strong>Islands</strong><br />
B.W.I.<br />
Tel 649-946-4514<br />
Fax 649-946-4955<br />
Email hugh.oneill@hgoneillco.tc<br />
C<br />
CO. O<br />
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Hurricanes in history<br />
Well before <strong>the</strong> first Europeans set foot on <strong>the</strong>se islands,<br />
<strong>the</strong> native Taino and Lucayan Indians had learned to<br />
expect and adjust to <strong>the</strong> seasonal arrival <strong>of</strong> a “Jurakan”<br />
that evolved into our word for hurricane today. These<br />
fearsome winds, <strong>the</strong>y believed, derived from <strong>the</strong>ir deity<br />
Guabanex as part <strong>of</strong> a cosmic battle between good and<br />
evil. The Indians recognised <strong>the</strong> signs <strong>of</strong> an approaching<br />
storm days before, that allowed <strong>the</strong>m to prepare. Frigate<br />
birds flew inland away from <strong>the</strong> coast, while crickets,<br />
cicadas, toads and frogs disappeared, as if <strong>the</strong>y all had<br />
a foreboding sense <strong>of</strong> impending disaster. The Indians<br />
could even tell months before if <strong>the</strong> hurricane season was<br />
going to be particularly bad by a bountiful crop <strong>of</strong> avocados.<br />
When <strong>the</strong> first Spanish colonists arrived in <strong>the</strong> late<br />
1400s and early 1500s, <strong>the</strong>y too would experience <strong>the</strong><br />
devastating effects <strong>of</strong> hurricane-force winds and rains,<br />
more powerful than anything <strong>the</strong>y had seen in Europe. At<br />
first, according to Stuart B. Schwartz in his book Sea <strong>of</strong><br />
Storms, <strong>the</strong> Spanish dismissed warnings by <strong>the</strong> Indians,<br />
whom <strong>the</strong>y considered to be “unsophisticated” and “savage,”<br />
even when <strong>the</strong> natives proved to be right. Indeed,<br />
<strong>the</strong> Spanish considered such forecasting <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> future sacrilegious<br />
fortune telling. The onslaught <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se ferocious<br />
storms, <strong>the</strong>y believed, lay entirely in <strong>the</strong> realm <strong>of</strong> divine<br />
providence, and <strong>the</strong> havoc wreaked was punishment for<br />
man’s sins and moral failure. Only prayer, procession and<br />
repentance could mitigate <strong>the</strong>se pure acts <strong>of</strong> God.<br />
A notable exception to this fatalistic notion in <strong>the</strong> earliest<br />
days <strong>of</strong> Caribbean colonisation was, paradoxically,<br />
<strong>the</strong> intensely pious Christopher Columbus. On his fourth<br />
and final voyage to <strong>the</strong> West Indies in 1502, he warned<br />
<strong>the</strong> governor <strong>of</strong> Santo Domingo <strong>of</strong> an impending storm<br />
after noting sou<strong>the</strong>asterly swell <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> water, high cirrus<br />
clouds and a hazy atmosphere. A large fleet <strong>of</strong> 30 ships<br />
laden with gold extracted from <strong>the</strong> Taino Indians was<br />
about to leave <strong>the</strong> port for Spain, and Columbus urged<br />
<strong>the</strong> governor to keep <strong>the</strong> ships in <strong>the</strong> protected harbour<br />
until <strong>the</strong> storm passed. Already disdainful <strong>of</strong> Columbus,<br />
who had lost his star power after three previous Atlantic<br />
crossings that began with his Grand Turk landfall in 1492<br />
(<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> Fall <strong>2017</strong>), <strong>the</strong> governor sc<strong>of</strong>fed at<br />
<strong>the</strong> notion that storms could be predicted. Ship pilots and<br />
sailors readying <strong>the</strong> fleet in Santo Domingo expressed<br />
<strong>the</strong> same sentiment and sailed anyway, while Columbus<br />
found shelter in a bay.<br />
A powerful hurricane did hit two days later that took<br />
twenty <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> fleet’s ships straight to <strong>the</strong> bottom and dis-<br />
32 www.timespub.tc
AGILE LEVINE<br />
GARY JAMES–PROVO PICTURES<br />
abled nine more. Only one ship made it to Spain, and it<br />
happened to be <strong>the</strong> one with <strong>the</strong> gold specifically allotted<br />
to Columbus for his earlier services as “Admiral <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Seas.” The happenstance <strong>of</strong> only <strong>the</strong> ship with Columbus’s<br />
gold making it back to Spain, coupled with foretelling and<br />
prognostication, was not lost on his rivals who accused<br />
him <strong>of</strong> being in league with <strong>the</strong> devil.<br />
It would take decades, but <strong>the</strong> Spanish and o<strong>the</strong>r<br />
European colonists in <strong>the</strong> West Indies gradually recognised<br />
<strong>the</strong> cyclical pattern <strong>of</strong> hurricanes and began to<br />
value <strong>the</strong> observational and predictive skills <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> fast<br />
disappearing natives. That in turn led to greater acceptance<br />
<strong>of</strong> natural forces at work and that humans had<br />
some control over protecting <strong>the</strong>mselves. As <strong>the</strong> Age<br />
<strong>of</strong> Enlightenment took hold in <strong>the</strong> <strong>18</strong>th century, a better<br />
understanding <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se natural forces emerged that<br />
removed human action as <strong>the</strong> cause for <strong>the</strong>se disasters.<br />
But ra<strong>the</strong>r than one perspective replacing <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r, <strong>the</strong><br />
two co-existed, as Schwartz points out, woven toge<strong>the</strong>r<br />
in a belief that divine intercession could be called upon<br />
to lessen impending calamity, even if driven by natural<br />
forces. Indeed, through <strong>the</strong> centuries right up to today,<br />
people all over <strong>the</strong> West Indies pray to be spared from<br />
hurricanes and give thanks when an island escapes a<br />
storm or is spared from destruction.<br />
In a supreme twist <strong>of</strong> historical irony, blame for hurricanes<br />
has come full circle back to humankind being<br />
responsible for its own destructiveness by way <strong>of</strong> global<br />
warming. Instead <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hand <strong>of</strong> providence meting out<br />
punishment, however, <strong>the</strong> prevailing scientific view holds<br />
that humans are reaping what <strong>the</strong>y have sowed through<br />
reckless stewardship <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> planet.<br />
GARY JAMES–PROVO PICTURES<br />
Springing into action<br />
After a ferocious and precarious night (when <strong>the</strong> worst <strong>of</strong><br />
hurricanes always seem to strike!), morning breaks with<br />
a swirling, chalk-grey sky. The winds begin to subside, as<br />
Irma passes by. People peer out from cracks in plywood<br />
sheets or push away sandbags to open <strong>the</strong> door through<br />
sloshing water and get <strong>the</strong> first glimpse <strong>of</strong> nature’s<br />
wrath. Once majestically high coconut trees lie twisted<br />
and broken. Planks <strong>of</strong> wood and ro<strong>of</strong> shingles cover <strong>the</strong><br />
hard-packed sand and limestone rocks, resembling huge<br />
discarded checkerboards. Downed street lights and telephone<br />
poles sprawl across <strong>the</strong> highway with coiled lines<br />
and cables draped over <strong>the</strong> asphalt like black spaghetti.<br />
But it’s <strong>the</strong> brush stripped <strong>of</strong> all leaves along <strong>the</strong> roads<br />
that unexpectedly grabs our attention. For <strong>the</strong> first time<br />
in memory, residents driving along Leeward Highway can<br />
From top: Although <strong>the</strong> palms were drooping on Grace Bay Beach just<br />
after Hurricane Irma, it was soon back to pristine.<br />
The Enid Capron Primary School in Five Cays, although hard-hit,<br />
served as a shelter for over two weeks.<br />
Piles <strong>of</strong> debris littered <strong>the</strong> landscape around <strong>the</strong> fountain in front <strong>of</strong><br />
Baci Restaurant in Turtle Cove.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 33
The day after<br />
The morning <strong>of</strong> September 8, <strong>2017</strong>, <strong>the</strong> day after<br />
Category 5 Hurricane Irma struck <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />
<strong>Islands</strong>, is among <strong>the</strong> bleakest days in <strong>the</strong> country’s<br />
history. Each island experienced extensive damage.<br />
There was no electricity, no phone or Internet service<br />
and no running water. Toppled utility poles and trees,<br />
flooding and debris made most roads impassible. All<br />
<strong>the</strong> airports were closed, government and many private<br />
boats were on dry dock and much <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> population<br />
had damage to <strong>the</strong>ir property, business and/or vehicle.<br />
Where to begin?<br />
I recently spoke to TCI Commissioner <strong>of</strong> Police<br />
James Smith, who played a pivotal and visible role in<br />
getting <strong>the</strong> country back on its feet in <strong>the</strong> days following<br />
<strong>the</strong> storm. Commissioner Smith has always believed<br />
that leadership involves personal responsibility and<br />
being on <strong>the</strong> “front line.” Prior to <strong>the</strong> hurricanes, this<br />
“man on <strong>the</strong> ground” was a common sight driving his<br />
patrol car through <strong>the</strong> local communities, talking to<br />
<strong>the</strong> people. This became <strong>the</strong> first step in bringing <strong>the</strong><br />
situation under control. “We had to get out into <strong>the</strong> settlements<br />
to see <strong>the</strong> extent <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> devastation, making<br />
sure <strong>the</strong>re was no loss <strong>of</strong> life or medical problems. We<br />
used patrol cars, Department <strong>of</strong> Disaster Management<br />
The force <strong>of</strong> Hurricane Irma’s winds is apparent in <strong>the</strong> case<br />
<strong>of</strong> this overturned truck outside <strong>of</strong> Grant’s Gas Station in<br />
downtown Providenciales.<br />
& Emergencies (DDME) vehicles, basically anything that<br />
moved to see how everyone had fared.”<br />
The next step was to find a way to communicate to<br />
residents and concerned people <strong>of</strong>f-island that, miraculously,<br />
no one had died and <strong>the</strong>re were no serious<br />
casualties. This was important to squelch <strong>the</strong> traditional<br />
“coconut telegraph,” which loses accuracy and context<br />
as information is passed along person to person.<br />
A second major concern was getting to hardest-hit<br />
Grand Turk, South Caicos and Salt Cay, both to see<br />
how <strong>the</strong>y fared and to provide help. Because <strong>the</strong>re was<br />
no communication and no way to reach <strong>the</strong>se islands<br />
right after <strong>the</strong> storm, <strong>the</strong>ir isolation could have bred <strong>the</strong><br />
thought that “Nobody cares,” which was far from <strong>the</strong><br />
truth.<br />
As government, DDME and aid <strong>of</strong>ficials came<br />
toge<strong>the</strong>r, Commissioner Smith turned to ties made<br />
during his previous posting in <strong>the</strong> Cayman <strong>Islands</strong>. That<br />
country’s chief engineer and chief pilot were former<br />
comrades, and immediately started <strong>the</strong> two-day trip to<br />
Providenciales (via Cuba) in <strong>the</strong> Cayman <strong>Islands</strong> police<br />
helicopter. As soon as it arrived, <strong>the</strong>y flew to Grand<br />
Turk with supplies and a technologist to get communication<br />
reinstated. The commissioner recalls, “We met<br />
<strong>the</strong> deputy governor, who was manning <strong>the</strong> emergency<br />
centre, along with <strong>the</strong> attorney general and o<strong>the</strong>r <strong>of</strong>ficials.<br />
They were overjoyed to see us! Every building on<br />
Grand Turk was damaged, and much <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> government<br />
infrastructure demolished.” With police boats stuck on<br />
land, <strong>the</strong> first dispatches <strong>of</strong> food and water to Grand<br />
Turk were via private boats. The police helicopter was<br />
also <strong>the</strong> first to check on and assist <strong>the</strong> few families<br />
who elected to stay on Salt Cay.<br />
A functioning National Emergency Centre was<br />
created in Providenciales at <strong>the</strong> Digicel <strong>of</strong>fice next to<br />
Graceway IGA. Here <strong>the</strong>re were generator-powered electricity,<br />
communications and space for daily briefings.<br />
As soon as some semblance <strong>of</strong> communication services<br />
was restored, Commissioner Smith realized <strong>the</strong> importance<br />
<strong>of</strong> providing <strong>the</strong> public with factual updates and<br />
reassurance. Using his smart phone (“a very powerful<br />
instrument”), he filmed a series <strong>of</strong> three videologues<br />
that were disseminated via Facebook, <strong>the</strong> police website,<br />
and o<strong>the</strong>r social media outlets. Their message?<br />
Everyone is safe. There is no shortage <strong>of</strong> food, water or<br />
petrol, so don’t panic. Here is where you can get food<br />
and supplies. Everything is going to be OK.<br />
The second <strong>of</strong> Smith’s messages was filmed from<br />
one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> shelters, with <strong>the</strong> burly commissioner holding<br />
10 month old Teshaun in his arms. It netted at least<br />
30,000 hits.<br />
As <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> slowly recover, Commissioner Smith<br />
reports that <strong>the</strong> crime rate remains remarkably low.<br />
34 www.timespub.tc
“Although we had some minor looting just after <strong>the</strong><br />
storm, it was nowhere near <strong>the</strong> criminality o<strong>the</strong>r countries<br />
experienced. And in spite <strong>of</strong> many compromised<br />
buildings and limited street lights, we’re not seeing a<br />
lot <strong>of</strong> crime post-Irma.”<br />
Looking towards <strong>the</strong> future, Commissioner Smith<br />
agrees with o<strong>the</strong>r government <strong>of</strong>ficials that a major<br />
improvement must be made in preparation <strong>of</strong> hurricane<br />
shelters and communications. He says, “The shelters<br />
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The collapse <strong>of</strong> part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong> at <strong>the</strong> venerable Faith Tabernacle<br />
Church in downtown Providenciales has become an iconic symbol<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> storms.<br />
need to be fit for purpose and designed for potential<br />
long-term use. We need to invest in <strong>the</strong>se now.” He also<br />
suggests <strong>the</strong>re be a better way to disseminate information<br />
and organize aid distribution and coordination,<br />
with a clear system <strong>of</strong> command and control.<br />
Yet, miming o<strong>the</strong>rs’ impressions, Commissioner<br />
Smith remains in awe <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> huge coming-toge<strong>the</strong>r <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> private sector, churches, charities and <strong>the</strong> general<br />
public to help each o<strong>the</strong>r. He agrees that it was a major<br />
reason for TCI’s ability to welcome visitors back within<br />
two months <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> storm. This is part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCIStrong<br />
phenomenon. “The hurricane survivors have banded<br />
toge<strong>the</strong>r with pride. We’ve survived!” a<br />
By Kathy Borsuk<br />
Photos By Jack Williams<br />
Food for Thought is a new charity set up to provide<br />
daily breakfast to government school students –<br />
starting with <strong>the</strong> primary schools in North Caicos,<br />
Middle Caicos, South Caicos and Salt Cay.<br />
We estimate that just $200 will allow us to provide<br />
breakfast to one child for a whole school year.<br />
If you would like to donate or learn more please<br />
email foodforthoughttci@gmail.com<br />
or visit our website foodforthoughttci.com<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 35
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clearly and cleanly see <strong>the</strong> little neighbourhoods <strong>of</strong> clapboard<br />
houses nestled along its sides. Everyone knew <strong>the</strong>y<br />
were <strong>the</strong>re, somewhere, but what thick vegetation once<br />
made invisible had come into plain view. And that stark<br />
ocular proximity brings <strong>the</strong> ongoing plight <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir occupants<br />
into sharp, unavoidable focus.<br />
For those who got through relatively unsca<strong>the</strong>d, <strong>the</strong>re<br />
is no time to dwell on minor losses when more urgent<br />
needs beckon. The time for action has come. Government<br />
<strong>of</strong>ficials, businesses, charity groups and individuals all<br />
get moving.<br />
Well in advance <strong>of</strong> Hurricanes Irma and Maria, <strong>the</strong><br />
Department <strong>of</strong> Disaster Management and Emergencies<br />
(DDME) had begun preparations by converting into<br />
shelters 12 schools and churches throughout TCI, as<br />
well as <strong>the</strong> Gustavus Lightbourne Sports Centre on<br />
Providenciales. DDME assigned trained shelter managers<br />
to each location and provided supplies <strong>of</strong> food and water.<br />
Through electronic messaging and social media, as well<br />
as more traditional means, <strong>the</strong> DDME managed to reach<br />
all 40,000 people living in TCI. DDME Director Dr. Virginia<br />
Clerveaux explained, “While we reached a lot <strong>of</strong> people<br />
electronically, we also employed loudspeakers from vehicles,<br />
postings, handouts and just showing up at popular<br />
island meeting spots to provide warning updates and<br />
preparation tips.” Most people remained in <strong>the</strong>ir homes,<br />
but some 1,500 people moved to one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> government<br />
designated shelters. Nobody got left behind.<br />
Also way out ahead <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> storm were <strong>the</strong> resorts,<br />
<strong>the</strong> “rocks” <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> country’s all-important tourism industry.<br />
Knowing that many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir staff might be exposed<br />
to hurricane danger, properties such as Windsong, The<br />
Alexandra, Grace Bay Club, West Bay Club, Seven Stars,<br />
The Shore Club, The Palms, Gansevoort and Villa del Mar,<br />
among many o<strong>the</strong>rs, made <strong>the</strong>ir hotel rooms and condominiums<br />
available to employees and <strong>the</strong>ir families. Most<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> managers even hunkered down with both staff and<br />
<strong>the</strong> guests who chose to stay through <strong>the</strong> storm. (Most<br />
resorts evacuated guests well ahead <strong>of</strong> time.) After <strong>the</strong><br />
hurricane when it became apparent that some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
staff homes had been severely damaged, resorts did not<br />
waiver in keeping employees sheltered at <strong>the</strong> resort or<br />
o<strong>the</strong>r places until <strong>the</strong>ir abodes were repaired. Grace Bay<br />
Club, for example, secured commercial space for displaced<br />
employees to live, while The Shore Club rented out<br />
<strong>the</strong> dining hall at St. Monica Anglican Church (and made<br />
The Shore Club Ballroom available for Sunday services).<br />
Just about everyone in <strong>the</strong> food business got involved<br />
immediately. Supermarkets such as Graceway IGA (which<br />
36 www.timespub.tc
Brew ad May <strong>2017</strong>_Layout 1 5/11/17 10:51 AM Page 1<br />
had kept its generators running throughout <strong>the</strong> storm),<br />
restaurants including Retreat, Bay Bistro, Big Al’s Island<br />
Grille, Le Bouchon and Rickie’s Flamingo Cafe, and private<br />
chefs like Josh Carlton prepared thousands <strong>of</strong> hot<br />
meals to give away on <strong>the</strong> spot or bring to anyone in<br />
need. Grace Bay Car Rentals provided vehicles and drivers<br />
from its staff to deliver many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se meals to <strong>the</strong><br />
hard-hit settlements, <strong>of</strong>ten using 4X4 SUVs to reach <strong>the</strong><br />
more difficult areas. “Food for Thought,” which has long<br />
operated a renowned breakfast program for TCI schools,<br />
also played a critical role in getting food to <strong>the</strong> needy.<br />
Meanwhile, dozens <strong>of</strong> boat operators and captains,<br />
including Delphine Hartshorn, Bruce Barron (Panoply), and<br />
Valdez Thomas (Sea Spice), quickly organised transportation<br />
<strong>of</strong> food and supplies to North and Middle Caicos,<br />
South Caicos and Grand Turk, thus providing a critical link<br />
when none o<strong>the</strong>r existed. Hurricane debris in <strong>the</strong> milky<br />
ocean water, particularly near Grand Turk, put <strong>the</strong> boats<br />
at risk, but <strong>the</strong> captains and crews went anyway.<br />
TC Crystal Water (<strong>of</strong> which Turks Head Brewery is a<br />
part) turned <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> coin-operated machines at <strong>the</strong>ir South<br />
Dock Road facility so that anyone could fill up as many<br />
jugs <strong>of</strong> water as <strong>the</strong>y needed for free. When <strong>the</strong> Caicos<br />
Conch Farm learned that <strong>the</strong>y would lose 500 lbs (227 kg)<br />
<strong>of</strong> red snapper and grouper after <strong>the</strong> generator crashed,<br />
<strong>the</strong>y contacted TC Crystal Water and proposed harvesting<br />
<strong>the</strong> fish for a giant fish fry in <strong>the</strong> TC Crystal Water parking<br />
lot. “Let’s do it,” came <strong>the</strong> reply. So <strong>the</strong>y set up grills and<br />
gave away an outstanding fried fish meal to anyone who<br />
wanted some.<br />
Hundreds <strong>of</strong> people initiated <strong>the</strong>ir own personal<br />
assistance programs to aid friends and neighbours, as<br />
well as those hurting <strong>the</strong> most. Some 20 members <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> venerable Fish Fryer’s Club ga<strong>the</strong>red at <strong>the</strong> house<br />
<strong>of</strong> photographer Penrhyn Brooks and worked 11 hours<br />
straight to clear debris from his yard (breaking, <strong>of</strong> course,<br />
for a fry fish BBQ). This informal social group <strong>of</strong> men<br />
and women from all over TCI has been getting toge<strong>the</strong>r<br />
weekly for over 10 years, <strong>of</strong>ten raising money for donations<br />
to schools and o<strong>the</strong>r causes. So, when one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
group needed help, everyone showed up in force.<br />
Social media groups wasted no time identifying needs<br />
and connecting people who could help. One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se was<br />
<strong>the</strong> WhatsApp group called “We Care Turks & Caicos.” It<br />
was set up by a group <strong>of</strong> friends and expanded organically<br />
to o<strong>the</strong>r friends until it reached 30+ committed<br />
individuals drawn from every part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> community—<br />
including sports stars, lawyers, a high school student and<br />
even ex-pats living in <strong>the</strong> US and Canada. The network<br />
Turk’s Head Brewery<br />
Brewery Tours Monday-Friday<br />
11AM, 1PM, 3PM<br />
$15/pp<br />
Enjoy a complimentary selection <strong>of</strong> local craft beer<br />
after your tour!<br />
Email tours@turksheadbeer.com<br />
Call 649.941.3637 x 1005 to book<br />
www.turksheadbrewery.tc<br />
52 Universal Dr.<br />
Providenciales, TCI<br />
TOUR TASTE SHOP<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 37
North and Middle Caicos<br />
The full brunt <strong>of</strong> Hurricanes Irma and Maria missed<br />
North and Middle Caicos, causing less damage than<br />
experienced on <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r islands. Still, <strong>the</strong> tiny populations<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se stunning gems (1,600 people in<br />
North Caicos and just <strong>18</strong>0 in Middle Caicos) took no<br />
chances and prepared well. Because <strong>the</strong>se islands are<br />
more rural and cut <strong>of</strong>f from <strong>the</strong> economic advantages<br />
in Providenciales, residents have developed a strong<br />
culture <strong>of</strong> self reliance. Indeed, for more than 200<br />
years, <strong>the</strong>y sustained <strong>the</strong>mselves quite independently<br />
by farming small plots <strong>of</strong> land and harvesting from <strong>the</strong><br />
sea conch, lobster and fish. Woven toge<strong>the</strong>r over time,<br />
<strong>the</strong>se communities naturally band toge<strong>the</strong>r when disaster<br />
strikes.<br />
A few days before Irma hit, government <strong>of</strong>ficials in<br />
Middle Caicos called for a meeting <strong>of</strong> all residents at<br />
<strong>the</strong> Community Centre in Conch Bar and asked everyone<br />
to evacuate, as <strong>the</strong>re would be no services. But<br />
<strong>the</strong> people <strong>the</strong>re refused, citing need to watch over<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir houses and each o<strong>the</strong>r. They worried too that if<br />
<strong>the</strong> causeway between North and Middle Caicos was<br />
wiped out, as happened after Hurricane Ike in 2008,<br />
<strong>the</strong>y might not be able to get back for weeks. Instead<br />
<strong>of</strong> leaving, almost everyone in Conch Bar ga<strong>the</strong>red at<br />
<strong>the</strong> Mount Moriah Baptist Church, bringing with <strong>the</strong>m<br />
plenty <strong>of</strong> food and water to share. In <strong>the</strong> settlements<br />
<strong>of</strong> Bambarra and Lorimers, residents also thoroughly<br />
prepared and moved into <strong>the</strong> strongest house to ride it<br />
out.<br />
Mike Terry <strong>of</strong> Ephraim Construction and residents dumped rocks to<br />
shore up <strong>the</strong> causeway between North and Middle Caicos.<br />
In North Caicos, people mostly stayed in <strong>the</strong>ir own<br />
houses or with friends and neighbours if <strong>the</strong>y believed<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir own house might not stay intact. A few went to<br />
churches for shelter. As soon as <strong>the</strong> winds subsided,<br />
<strong>the</strong> physically stronger members <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se islands went<br />
out to clear <strong>the</strong> main two lane road that runs 32 miles<br />
between North and Middle Caicos and connects <strong>the</strong> settlements.<br />
Anyone with a car that could get through mud<br />
on <strong>the</strong> unpaved side roads and at least two feet <strong>of</strong> water<br />
drove from house to house to see if anyone was hurt<br />
and needed immediate aid. Between <strong>the</strong> hurricanes, residents<br />
worked with Mike Terry <strong>of</strong> Ephraim Construction<br />
to load up rocks from a quarry to shore up <strong>the</strong> causeway<br />
in case it couldn’t take a second hit from Hurricane<br />
Maria. In so doing, <strong>the</strong>se tiny TCI communities literally<br />
and symbolically stayed bound to one ano<strong>the</strong>r, reinforcing<br />
recognition <strong>of</strong> being one people. a<br />
By Ben Stubenberg<br />
SARA KAUFMAN<br />
38 www.timespub.tc
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raised hundreds <strong>of</strong> dollars every day to pay for food,<br />
personal hygiene supplies and building materials, and<br />
tapped members to bring <strong>the</strong>m to <strong>the</strong> most vulnerable.<br />
The network created a bond between <strong>the</strong> members who<br />
surprised <strong>the</strong>mselves at being so effective in working<br />
toge<strong>the</strong>r. This WhatsApp group is not going away.<br />
Aid came from unexpected sources too. Two days<br />
before Irma hit, Haitians called friends in TCI to <strong>of</strong>fer<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir homes as shelter should <strong>the</strong>y want to evacuate to<br />
Haiti. Haitian-based charities, including Mission <strong>of</strong> Hope,<br />
had stockpiled supplies in case Irma hit Haiti. But when<br />
<strong>the</strong> hurricane missed <strong>the</strong>m, Haitians loaded up tarps,<br />
water, purification bottles, food and o<strong>the</strong>r survival items<br />
meant for <strong>the</strong>m onto <strong>the</strong> ship True North heading to<br />
Providenciales. In this way, people in Haiti, <strong>of</strong>ten <strong>the</strong><br />
recipients <strong>of</strong> aid in times <strong>of</strong> tragedy, showed <strong>the</strong>y were<br />
quick to give back when nearby countries suffered <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
own calamity. Local TCI charities Salvation Army, Convoy<br />
<strong>of</strong> Hope and Harvest Bible Church met <strong>the</strong> True North<br />
at <strong>the</strong> dock and distributed <strong>the</strong> goods throughout TCI.<br />
In late October, <strong>the</strong> government <strong>of</strong> Haiti added to <strong>the</strong><br />
private donation by giving TCI hundreds <strong>of</strong> generators,<br />
plywood sheets, tarps and o<strong>the</strong>r housing materials to<br />
help with <strong>the</strong> aftermath and rebuilding.<br />
WhatsApp group “We Care Turks & Caicos” helped coordinate <strong>the</strong> provision<br />
and delivery <strong>of</strong> hundreds <strong>of</strong> meals after <strong>the</strong> hurricane.<br />
DOMINICK ROLLE<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 39
#TCIStrong<br />
Irma. Maria. I think it’s safe to say that girls born<br />
in <strong>the</strong> Caribbean will not be given <strong>the</strong>se names any<br />
time soon. Hurricane Irma was so powerful that <strong>the</strong><br />
National Hurricane Center is considering designating it<br />
a Category 6! Before setting her sights on <strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />
Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, Irma destroyed Barbuda, St. Martin, St.<br />
Barths, Anguilla, and <strong>the</strong> US and British Virgin <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
Two weeks later, Hurricane Maria decided to pay a<br />
visit. Maria was a Category 5 and many had no power<br />
or communications and were dealing with damage<br />
from Irma. There was still debris everywhere. This<br />
could behave like missiles and cause fur<strong>the</strong>r devastation.<br />
Thankfully Maria only produced mostly rain and<br />
no fur<strong>the</strong>r damage.<br />
Everyone was thankful to be alive! Everyone helped<br />
everyone clean up, rebuild and upgrade. And although<br />
<strong>the</strong> media sensationalized <strong>the</strong> devastation, many areas<br />
got back to business quickly.<br />
On my first visit back to inspect our vacation home<br />
(just after Maria), I dreaded what I would find. I drove<br />
from <strong>the</strong> airport to Leeward heartbroken. Every ro<strong>of</strong><br />
had damage, landscape was brown and shredded. But<br />
every ro<strong>of</strong> was already topped with ei<strong>the</strong>r a tarp, peel<br />
and seal, or a person hammering. And when I got to<br />
<strong>the</strong> hub <strong>of</strong> Grace Bay Beach where <strong>the</strong> resorts are, I<br />
found it clean and nearly pristine! I later discovered<br />
that everyone had stepped it up to pitch in. Some resort<br />
employees lost entire ro<strong>of</strong>s, yet worked tirelessly to get<br />
resorts (and <strong>the</strong>ir jobs) up and running.<br />
By <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> week, hibiscus were blooming.<br />
Everyone was tired, but grateful and smiling. By my<br />
next trip <strong>the</strong> first week <strong>of</strong> December, <strong>the</strong> vacation<br />
hub areas <strong>of</strong> Grace Bay, Leeward and The Bight, were<br />
cleaner and fresher than ever. Nearly all <strong>of</strong> my favorite<br />
restaurants are back in business, including Bugaloo’s<br />
and Da Conch Shack. And, <strong>of</strong> course, <strong>the</strong> stunning<br />
turquoise sea and sugar-sand beaches are incredibly<br />
alluring and unchanged.<br />
TCI is strong, but vacationers must remember that<br />
while no signs <strong>of</strong> hurricanes are to be seen in tourist<br />
areas, many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> local settlements were badly damaged,<br />
as were Grand Turk, South Caicos and Salt Cay.<br />
That’s where many workers go home to after work.<br />
Your visit helps <strong>the</strong> country to thrive. But consider<br />
vacationing with a heart—bring along an extra suitcase<br />
with goods to share or consider donating to one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
These Blue Hills before and after shots<br />
show <strong>the</strong> remarkable and quick recovery<br />
TCI has wrought in <strong>the</strong> popular tourist<br />
spots.<br />
funds raising money towards recovery.<br />
Keep on coming to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos, and encourage<br />
family and friends to make this <strong>the</strong>ir next vacation<br />
destination. Tourism is clearly TCI’s primary industry,<br />
and as resorts, restaurants, watersports operators,<br />
spas, car rentals, wedding planners, activities thrive,<br />
<strong>the</strong> benefits trickle throughout <strong>the</strong> economy.<br />
For more information, check out <strong>the</strong> following<br />
Facebook pages: The Salvation Army Turks & Caicos,<br />
1-649-431-6802; Turks & Caicos Red Cross, 1-649-<br />
946-5<strong>18</strong>2; Potcake Place K-9 Rescue, 1-649-231-1010;<br />
Hurricane Irma Relief Turks and Caicos (www.hirtac.<br />
org); Provo’s Children Home (www.pch.tc). Many<br />
resorts set up individual GoFundMe pages to help <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
employees recover. a<br />
Story & Photos By Ramona Settle<br />
40 www.timespub.tc
Seeing <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r side<br />
Many people unaffiliated with any aid group simply loaded<br />
up <strong>the</strong>ir cars with food, ice, water and o<strong>the</strong>r supplies and<br />
drove to <strong>the</strong> shelters or homes <strong>of</strong> housekeepers and gardeners<br />
<strong>the</strong>y had employed for years. For some living in<br />
more affluent areas <strong>of</strong> Providenciales, seeing up-close for<br />
<strong>the</strong> first time <strong>the</strong> difficult conditions under which <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
workers lived moved <strong>the</strong>m pr<strong>of</strong>oundly.<br />
For me, <strong>the</strong> young teens in <strong>the</strong> Enid Capron Primary<br />
School shelter in <strong>the</strong> settlement <strong>of</strong> Five Cays made a deep<br />
impression. Each time someone arrived with a delivery <strong>of</strong><br />
supplies, <strong>the</strong> youngsters promptly went to unload <strong>the</strong> car<br />
or truck with utmost courtesy and thankfulness. Despite<br />
two weeks <strong>of</strong> living on cots with one sheet and maybe<br />
a single change <strong>of</strong> clo<strong>the</strong>s, <strong>the</strong>y looked impressively<br />
clean and well-groomed. The shelter manager, Yanique<br />
Henriquez, ran a tight, orderly ship, and <strong>the</strong> youngsters<br />
and adults responded by respecting <strong>the</strong> rules and making<br />
<strong>the</strong> best <strong>of</strong> a difficult situation.<br />
On <strong>the</strong> last day before <strong>the</strong> shelter closed so <strong>the</strong><br />
school could reopen, two <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> teens, a boy and a girl,<br />
took me aside. They looked me straight in <strong>the</strong> eye with<br />
steady confidence and calmly explained <strong>the</strong>ir situation.<br />
“The shelter now has enough food and water,” <strong>the</strong> boy<br />
began. “And we are very thankful for what everyone has<br />
done to make sure we were OK. But what we don’t have<br />
is a home. We are from Five Cays, but <strong>the</strong>re is no place to<br />
go back to.” “Are you bro<strong>the</strong>r and sister?” I asked. “Well,<br />
Kathryn<br />
Brown<br />
Director ERA Turks and Caicos Real Estate<br />
Kathryn's experience in real estate<br />
began in 1997 with ERA in Cayman<br />
<strong>Islands</strong>. In 2000 Kathryn moved to<br />
Turks and Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> to take<br />
up <strong>the</strong> position <strong>of</strong> Managing<br />
Director <strong>of</strong> ERA Turks and Caicos<br />
Real Estate (formerly ERA Coralie<br />
Properties Ltd.). Kathryn was a<br />
founding member <strong>of</strong> Turks and<br />
Caicos Real Estate Association (TCREA) that implemented <strong>the</strong><br />
MLS for Turks and Caicos. She was instrumental in drafting <strong>the</strong><br />
Ethics and Rules and Regulations for <strong>the</strong> Association. She also<br />
headed up a certified training program for members <strong>of</strong> TCREA.<br />
As well as sitting on many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Association committees, she was<br />
Vice President for 3 years, followed by 5 years as President.<br />
Kathryn has recently been awarded Certificate <strong>of</strong> Distinction, Life<br />
Time Membership to TCREA. Now C.E.O. <strong>of</strong> ERA, she still loves<br />
being involved with listings and sales and has many repeat clients<br />
and customers, most <strong>of</strong> whom have become friends. Kathryn has<br />
been Top Selling Broker for ERA for 15 years. Real estate is her<br />
passion; she consistently provides service with integrity and vision<br />
ensuring <strong>the</strong> best results for both customers and clients.<br />
ERA Turks and Caicos Real Estate<br />
not before <strong>the</strong> hurricane, but we are bro<strong>the</strong>r and sister<br />
Juan Martinez Fall 15 sixth_Layout Tel: 649 231-2329 1 5/27/16 11:58 AM Page 1<br />
now, as we’ve been helping each o<strong>the</strong>r get through this.” Email: krbrown@era.tc<br />
“Where is your mo<strong>the</strong>r or fa<strong>the</strong>r?” I asked. “Are <strong>the</strong>y Web: www.eraturksandcaicos.com<br />
here too?” “Yes, let me get my mo<strong>the</strong>r,” <strong>the</strong> girl said and<br />
brought her over.<br />
Both began speaking Haitian Creole to <strong>the</strong> mo<strong>the</strong>r,<br />
telling her about <strong>the</strong>ir appeal to me. This is not an unusual<br />
PHONE:<br />
situation in Turks & Caicos, as many children have one<br />
2 4 1 . 3 2 9 7<br />
2 4 4 . 9 0 9 0<br />
foot in <strong>the</strong> Haitian world and one in <strong>the</strong> TCI community.<br />
3 4 4 . 9 4 0 3<br />
As is sometimes <strong>the</strong> case in North America and <strong>the</strong> UK,<br />
2 4 4 . 6 1 9 1<br />
SOUTH DOCK<br />
young teens will translate for a parent who cannot speak<br />
ROAD, PROVO<br />
English and end up negotiating for <strong>the</strong> family medical<br />
services, leases, utility hookups, work expectations and<br />
school enrollment. No longer adolescents, <strong>the</strong>se two<br />
teens, ages 16 and 14, dealing daily with <strong>the</strong> challenges<br />
and uncertainties on <strong>the</strong> fringes <strong>of</strong> society, had matured<br />
well beyond <strong>the</strong>ir years. In ano<strong>the</strong>r time or place, <strong>the</strong>y<br />
might be anticipating an upcoming school dance or making<br />
plans to watch a football game. Instead, <strong>the</strong>y just<br />
wanted to find some place to live with walls, a ro<strong>of</strong> that<br />
didn’t leak too much and a couple <strong>of</strong> beds or cots, even if<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 41
GARY JAMES–PROVO PICTURES<br />
This drone shot shows <strong>the</strong> flooding experienced in Five Cays after Hurricane Irma, although <strong>the</strong> predicted massive storm surge never materialized.<br />
temporary. Nothing else mattered. And so to anyone who<br />
would listen, <strong>the</strong>y made <strong>the</strong>ir case with patient, urgent<br />
eloquence.<br />
The teens and <strong>the</strong>ir families did get a short reprieve<br />
for a few more days at <strong>the</strong> Gustarvus Lightbourne Sports<br />
Centre before <strong>the</strong>y and o<strong>the</strong>rs found tiny, one-room<br />
houses in <strong>the</strong>ir Five Cays settlement. I visited one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
places shared by two 15 year-old girls and three adult<br />
women who had been in <strong>the</strong> Enid Capron shelter. They<br />
had no running water or electricity. When night came,<br />
<strong>the</strong>y lit candles. The two girls slept in <strong>the</strong> one cot, while<br />
<strong>the</strong> three women slept on a sheet <strong>of</strong> plywood over a<br />
cement floor. Folded up clo<strong>the</strong>s served as pillows. With<br />
nothing to cook with, <strong>the</strong>y bought prepared food from<br />
local supermarkets, which <strong>the</strong>y shared with each o<strong>the</strong>r.<br />
Whatever jobs <strong>the</strong>y had were suspended, so <strong>the</strong>y had no<br />
income. Yet nobody complained, and nobody gave up.<br />
The sobering reality <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir predicament, fellow residents<br />
who live less than a 15-minute drive from anywhere<br />
on Providenciales, tugs hard at <strong>the</strong> heart and doesn’t let<br />
go.<br />
Local lawyer and photographer Dominick Rolle, one<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> members <strong>of</strong> “We Care Turks & Caicos” WhatsApp<br />
group, noted that just about everyone without a generator<br />
basically camped out for at least two weeks, sometimes<br />
more than six weeks, waiting for power to come on. “It<br />
was challenging and <strong>of</strong>ten uncomfortable for sure,” Mr.<br />
Rolle said. “But it also created a closer sense <strong>of</strong> community<br />
that has been sustained though weekly cookouts<br />
where everyone shares what <strong>the</strong>y have.”<br />
At <strong>the</strong> same time, Mr. Rolle emphasised, “That experience<br />
<strong>of</strong> temporary deprivation opened our eyes to a<br />
hidden segment <strong>of</strong> society that lives like this every day. It<br />
humbles you. We cannot forget that <strong>the</strong>y are part <strong>of</strong> TCI<br />
society too—<strong>the</strong>ir kids go to school with your kids or play<br />
on <strong>the</strong> same sports teams. But when <strong>the</strong>y go home, <strong>the</strong>y<br />
may not have something as basic as a light, much less a<br />
refrigerator or stove.”<br />
Dr. Sam Slattery, founder <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Grace Bay Medical<br />
Centre, pointed out, “People employed by <strong>the</strong> stores,<br />
<strong>of</strong>fices and resorts <strong>of</strong> Grace Bay and all around Provo<br />
<strong>of</strong>ten walk a half mile in <strong>the</strong> mud to get to a paved road<br />
and <strong>the</strong>n take a taxi jitney to get to work. All day we<br />
expect <strong>the</strong>m to perform <strong>the</strong>ir jobs with cheerful efficiency.<br />
And <strong>the</strong>n at night, <strong>the</strong>y go back home to a very<br />
different world and deal with hardships <strong>the</strong> rest <strong>of</strong> us can<br />
scarcely imagine.”<br />
TCI gets back on its feet<br />
Hurricane Maria arrived a week later, quick on <strong>the</strong> heels<br />
42 www.timespub.tc
GARY JAMES–PROVO PICTURES<br />
This photo <strong>of</strong> Grace Bay Beach was taken on September 29, <strong>2017</strong>, less than one month after Hurricane Irma. Both nature and <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> have<br />
a remarkable ability to bounce back.<br />
after slashing into Puerto Rico with deadly assault. TCI<br />
residents again prepared for <strong>the</strong> worst, but this time it<br />
was different. After Irma, everyone, imbued with confidence,<br />
knew <strong>the</strong>y could handle <strong>the</strong> next one, no matter<br />
how big. As it happened, Maria curved north away from<br />
TCI. It still rated a dangerous Category 3, but was nothing<br />
like Irma. The attitude was unified, “Let’s get this over<br />
with so we can clean up and rebuild.”<br />
Right after <strong>the</strong> hurricanes had passed, DDME and Red<br />
Cross teams <strong>of</strong> trained resident volunteers fanned out to<br />
assess <strong>the</strong> damage. Well over 100 British troops landed<br />
with large Chinook helicopters and C-130 transport aircraft<br />
with supplies to distribute. The UK aid organisation<br />
Department for International Development worked quietly<br />
in <strong>the</strong> background with DDME and local groups to get<br />
food and supplies in and move <strong>the</strong>m to where needed.<br />
The preparations, sheltering and post-hurricane aid<br />
by everyone paid <strong>of</strong>f, as TCI did not have a single fatality<br />
or injury attributable directly to <strong>the</strong> hurricanes. That<br />
“zero” statistic is even more impressive when one considers<br />
that TCI is not normally in <strong>the</strong> path <strong>of</strong> devastating<br />
hurricanes that have hit <strong>the</strong> Caribbean and Bahamas. It<br />
had been a full 9 years since Hurricanes Hanna and Ike<br />
struck in 2008 and 23 years from when Hurricane Kate hit<br />
in 1985. The last big hurricane before that was Donna in<br />
1960. Applying <strong>the</strong> lessons learned, <strong>the</strong> TCI government<br />
has already begun to prepare even better for <strong>the</strong> future,<br />
including tighter enforcement <strong>of</strong> building codes.<br />
The post-hurricane clean up was no less remarkable.<br />
With debris strewn about, gardening services large and<br />
small went straight to work contracting out at pre-hurricane<br />
prices. Many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> workers covered <strong>the</strong>mselves in<br />
hoodies or thick flannel shirts against <strong>the</strong> sharp thorns<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> brush, as well as <strong>the</strong> sudden onslaught <strong>of</strong> mosquitos<br />
that hatched in pools <strong>of</strong> water. The men worked all<br />
day in <strong>the</strong> hot sun, made excruciatingly more uncomfortable<br />
by high humidity. Sometimes <strong>the</strong>y used chainsaws<br />
to cut up <strong>the</strong> fallen brush, but mostly <strong>the</strong>y hacked away<br />
with machetes, counting on <strong>the</strong> job to earn some badly<br />
needed cash while delaying tending to <strong>the</strong> wreckage <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong>ir own homes.<br />
TCI’s Canadian-based electricity provider, FortisTCI,<br />
brought in 231 electrical line repair specialists and 65<br />
trucks from Canada and <strong>the</strong> US to supplement <strong>the</strong> local<br />
repair crews, putting <strong>the</strong> total TCI restoration workforce<br />
to well over 300. Local crews went to work as soon as<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 43
<strong>the</strong>y got <strong>the</strong> “All Clear,” while <strong>the</strong> first wave <strong>of</strong> foreign<br />
workers arrived within 48 hours. With so many poles,<br />
transformers and lines destroyed, restoration inevitably<br />
was uneven, especially since priority had to be given to<br />
hospitals, airports and water companies. While frustrating<br />
for many, particularly those with homes on <strong>the</strong> south<br />
shore <strong>of</strong> Providenciales as well as <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r islands, Fortis<br />
crews worked dawn to sun-down to bring <strong>the</strong> all-important<br />
power back. Fortis also hired local cooks to prepare<br />
800 hot meals and distributed <strong>the</strong>m at community centres.<br />
Provo water companies, too, worked to keep “city<br />
water” flowing to customers for at least a few hours a day<br />
just after <strong>the</strong> storm as <strong>the</strong>y located and fixed pipe leaks<br />
before re-pressurising <strong>the</strong> system.<br />
Amazingly, almost all resorts and rental villas were<br />
repaired and back in business by mid-November and<br />
accepting guests at <strong>the</strong> same high standards that have<br />
made Providenciales a sought-after luxury destination.<br />
Residents and business owners who suffered severe<br />
damage to <strong>the</strong>ir property tended to shrug <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> misfortune<br />
as part <strong>of</strong> living in an island paradise. They typically<br />
covered <strong>the</strong>ir financial and personal pain with jokes, but<br />
everyone felt <strong>the</strong> ache <strong>of</strong> losses that would take months, if<br />
not years, to recoup. Despite <strong>the</strong> hit, a festive mood prevailed.<br />
DJs such as DJ Dayoh and singers like Tess Charles<br />
partnered with cafés and bars to host fundraiser nights.<br />
(In fact, a half blown-<strong>of</strong>f ro<strong>of</strong> at Rickie’s Flamingo Cafe did<br />
not stop a big fundraiser <strong>the</strong>re.) Spirited crowds ready to<br />
party showed up to check on friends, swap stories and<br />
give food and clo<strong>the</strong>s. Just days after Irma hit, businesses<br />
and individuals brought all <strong>the</strong> donations <strong>the</strong>y acquired<br />
to Butterfield Square in Downtown Providenciales, set up<br />
tables and gave away items to those who needed <strong>the</strong>m.<br />
Local artists jumped in to raise relief money through<br />
wonderfully imaginative storm-related art. Jeweller Atelys<br />
sold several thousand dollars worth <strong>of</strong> her original handmade<br />
creations, all <strong>of</strong> which went to hurricane relief.<br />
Alizee Zimmermann ga<strong>the</strong>red broken ro<strong>of</strong> tiles, a potent<br />
symbol <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> wreckage, and painted <strong>the</strong>m with colourful,<br />
whimsical animals for sale to residents and visiting<br />
tourists. Painter Fay Ninon, founder <strong>of</strong> Oceanic Alchemy<br />
for marine life preservation, raised money by creating a<br />
line <strong>of</strong> clo<strong>the</strong>s and accessories with a “TCI Strong” <strong>the</strong>me<br />
and <strong>the</strong>n worked with <strong>the</strong> Edward Gartland Youth Centre<br />
to buy and distribute food in Grand Turk, Salt Cay and<br />
Providenciales.<br />
TCI stronger<br />
You never know how people are going to react in a real<br />
crisis, especially when almost no one living today in TCI<br />
can remember anything as severe as Hurricane Irma. But<br />
perseverance and kindness have always been an integral<br />
part <strong>of</strong> Turks & Caicos culture. Charitable events consistently<br />
draw hundreds <strong>of</strong> people from all over <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
So it was no surprise that <strong>the</strong> quite diverse TCI community<br />
united in providing relief. In fact, for weeks after <strong>the</strong><br />
hurricanes, that’s all anyone talked about. Native people<br />
and ex-pats alike felt pride, as if <strong>the</strong>y had passed a kind<br />
<strong>of</strong> test. Folks came tog<strong>the</strong>r, and former animosities and<br />
grudges seemed to have been blown away with <strong>the</strong> winds.<br />
In ano<strong>the</strong>r place, things might have gone in a negative<br />
direction, with descent into avarice, feuding or<br />
despair. But that didn’t happen here. Instead, <strong>the</strong> best <strong>of</strong><br />
humanity emerged, and this precious episode in TCI history<br />
must be remembered and cherished and nurtured,<br />
for <strong>the</strong>re will surely be o<strong>the</strong>r challenges and trials down<br />
<strong>the</strong> road.<br />
Indeed, we are on that road now, with ano<strong>the</strong>r chance<br />
to draw on <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>’ proven character and fortitude by<br />
keeping <strong>the</strong> post-hurricane momentum <strong>of</strong> extraordinary<br />
goodwill going. We can start by not letting <strong>the</strong> less fortunate<br />
in our society once again disappear behind <strong>the</strong> thick<br />
brush as <strong>the</strong> leaves grow back. Teens shouldn’t have to<br />
hunt for a place to stay for <strong>the</strong>ir families and five women<br />
shouldn’t have to live in one room without running water<br />
or electricity. And let’s pause to recognise and respect<br />
<strong>the</strong> hardships <strong>of</strong> people who touch our everyday lives—<br />
people we depend on—and do all we can to lighten <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
burden. Our <strong>Islands</strong> are too small and our hearts are too<br />
big. The good people <strong>of</strong> TCI stood toge<strong>the</strong>r magnificently<br />
strong when <strong>the</strong> dark winds roared in, and <strong>the</strong>y can shine<br />
brighter still in <strong>the</strong> sunlight <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> aftermath. a<br />
Ben Stubenberg is a contributing writer to <strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
<strong>Islands</strong> with a passion for Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> history.<br />
An avid ocean man, he is <strong>the</strong> co-founder <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sports and<br />
adventure tour company Caicu Naniki and <strong>the</strong> annual<br />
Turks & Caicos “Race for <strong>the</strong> Conch” Eco-SeaSwim. Ben<br />
can be reached at ben@caicunaniki.com.<br />
For <strong>the</strong> latest updates, fascinating<br />
information on just about anything<br />
related to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>,<br />
and beautiful photos, go to<br />
VisitTCI.com<br />
44 www.timespub.tc
The nation’s capital<br />
Grand Turk, South Caicos and Salt Cay were in <strong>the</strong><br />
direct path <strong>of</strong> both Hurricanes Irma and Maria and suffered<br />
much damage. Relief operations kicked in almost<br />
immediately, with volunteers from <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r islands<br />
and a contingent <strong>of</strong> military from <strong>the</strong> UK, including <strong>the</strong><br />
HMS Ocean, which is <strong>the</strong> only aircraft carrier and largest<br />
operational warship in <strong>the</strong> Royal Navy.<br />
The UK also sent huge cargo planes <strong>of</strong> relief<br />
supplies. Blue Haven Marina frequenter mega-yacht<br />
Doro<strong>the</strong>a III and <strong>the</strong> Yacht Aid Global Team also were<br />
among <strong>the</strong> first to deliver clean water and supplies to<br />
Grand Turk. Military helicopters ferried provision on<br />
to South Caicos and Salt Cay. Highlighting <strong>the</strong> UK’s<br />
commitment to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>, over 120 military personnel<br />
were instrumental in assisting with post-hurricane<br />
security, re-opening <strong>the</strong> Providenciales airport and<br />
essential government buildings, clearing debris, repairing<br />
schools, and even helped get Radio Turks & Caicos<br />
running.<br />
By <strong>the</strong> two month post-hurricanes mark, Fortis TCI<br />
reported that electricity was restored to all customers<br />
throughout <strong>the</strong> TCI that can currently receive it. This<br />
included <strong>the</strong> extensive rebuilding <strong>of</strong> sections <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
transmission and distribution networks on Grand Turk<br />
and Salt Cay. This accomplishment set a new standard<br />
in <strong>the</strong> Caribbean for restoration from a hurricane.<br />
Although a number <strong>of</strong> TCI Government <strong>of</strong>fices<br />
on Grand Turk sustained significant damage, <strong>the</strong><br />
Immigration, Customs and Treasury Departments<br />
re-opened right after <strong>the</strong> storms, in spite <strong>of</strong> needing<br />
to operate for weeks on generator power. O<strong>the</strong>r key<br />
<strong>of</strong>fices were relocated as necessary.<br />
The Grand Turk Cruise Ship Centre re-opened in<br />
November. As early as one month after <strong>the</strong> storms,<br />
Seatrade Cruise News reported, “Work is full tilt at <strong>the</strong><br />
Grand Turk Cruise Center to restore <strong>the</strong> destination to<br />
receive ships in November. A senior Carnival <strong>of</strong>ficial<br />
said <strong>the</strong> cruise pier did not suffer any damage while <strong>the</strong><br />
cruise center facility suffered mostly cosmetic damages<br />
and loss <strong>of</strong> some landscaping. Carnival’s team worked<br />
around <strong>the</strong> clock to welcome back guests. The beaches<br />
are in great shape, <strong>the</strong> water is gorgeous and <strong>the</strong> welcoming<br />
people are getting ready to resume business.”<br />
a<br />
From top: This UK Royal Air Force Chinook is hovering over <strong>the</strong><br />
Turks & Caicos. The UK deployed units from several branches <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong>ir armed forces to aid in recovery and provided invaluable transport<br />
<strong>of</strong> supplies after Hurricane Irma. Just prior to <strong>the</strong> reopening<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> cruise port on November 1, Carnival and Margaritaville staff<br />
cleaned up <strong>the</strong> “strip” on Grand Turk.<br />
AGILE LEVIN<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 45
JOHN GALLEYMORE
feature<br />
Opposite page: In <strong>the</strong> TCI’s fishing capital <strong>of</strong> South Caicos, it was estimated that nearly every one its buildings sustained damage, with 51<br />
being totally destroyed. Salt Cay, shown here, fared no better.<br />
Above: The author and photographer inspect St. John’s Church on Salt Cay after Hurricanes Irma and Maria ravaged <strong>the</strong> tiny island.<br />
AGILE LEVIN<br />
An Unexpected Adventure<br />
Visiting South Caicos and Salt Cay post-hurricanes.<br />
By John Galleymore<br />
In <strong>the</strong> ten years <strong>of</strong> being a resident <strong>of</strong> Providenciales, we had seen storms form <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> west coast <strong>of</strong> Africa<br />
and ei<strong>the</strong>r dissipate, move away or grow no larger than a tropical storm. The one exception was <strong>the</strong> 2008<br />
“double” <strong>of</strong> Hurricanes Ike and Hannah, tearing through <strong>the</strong> TCI just weeks apart, devastating <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
Whoever could have imagined that this scenario was set to repeat nine years later in September <strong>2017</strong>?<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 47
JOHN GALLEYMORE<br />
At <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong> August <strong>2017</strong>, my wife and I flew into<br />
Providenciales from <strong>the</strong> British Virgin <strong>Islands</strong>. We had<br />
been visiting <strong>the</strong>re for some time and were very familiar<br />
with <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. Little did we know that less than two<br />
weeks later, <strong>the</strong> BVI would serve as a stark warning <strong>of</strong><br />
what was to about to hit <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>—<br />
Hurricane Irma.<br />
Early September and we are in an old rented cottage<br />
on Grace Bay, tracking <strong>the</strong> storm daily and trying to agree<br />
with <strong>the</strong> general consensus that it will turn and move<br />
away. Some folks are prepping, buying up supplies, and<br />
o<strong>the</strong>rs are securing <strong>the</strong>ir homes with plywood and hurricane<br />
shutters. Many say it’s a lot <strong>of</strong> work, only for <strong>the</strong><br />
storm to pass us by. There is little anxiety amongst many<br />
residents. The hurricane has been graded as a Category<br />
2; powerful yes, but it’s still hundreds <strong>of</strong> miles away and<br />
most people believe that <strong>the</strong> first landfall it makes will<br />
drain <strong>the</strong> power out <strong>of</strong> it. So, in <strong>the</strong> TCI, life carries on.<br />
On September 4, Hurricane Irma was up to a Category<br />
4 and people started to take notice. No more so than just<br />
<strong>18</strong> hours later, when it had streng<strong>the</strong>ned into a Category<br />
5 and made landfall, nearly wiping <strong>the</strong> island <strong>of</strong> Barbuda<br />
<strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> face <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> earth.<br />
Irma had become a terrifying beast, with maximum<br />
sustained winds peaking at <strong>18</strong>5 MPH on September 6 —<br />
it would remain steady and unchanged for <strong>the</strong> next 37<br />
hours. While maintaining this intensity, Irma made successive<br />
landfalls on September 6—on St. Martin and Tortola<br />
in <strong>the</strong> British Virgin <strong>Islands</strong>—and utter devastation was<br />
<strong>the</strong> result. Suddenly we were getting press reports and<br />
messages from <strong>the</strong>se islands and we feared that unless<br />
<strong>the</strong> storm deviated or broke up, we were in for <strong>the</strong> same.<br />
Now, as <strong>the</strong> storm moved closer, we all started tracking<br />
it and it made headlines in <strong>the</strong> US and Europe. It was<br />
measured to be bigger than France and moving at just 14<br />
MPH. Suddenly everyone was stocking up on fuel, food<br />
and searching for plywood to secure homes. We relocated<br />
to a hotel on Grace Bay, not trusting <strong>the</strong> old house we<br />
were renting, and settled in with supplies for five days<br />
along with our two very bemused dogs. That afternoon,<br />
<strong>the</strong> streets were deserted and sandbags aligned every<br />
storefront. There was nothing to do but wait.<br />
When it came, it came with force—late afternoon,<br />
early evening, <strong>the</strong> wind and rain started and by nightfall<br />
palm trees were being bent nearly double and <strong>the</strong> rain<br />
was thick and horizontal. We would be in for many hours<br />
<strong>of</strong> this. As <strong>the</strong> storm grew closer, <strong>the</strong> noise increased to<br />
that <strong>of</strong> a freight train and our ears were popping due <strong>the</strong><br />
sudden drop in air pressure.<br />
48 www.timespub.tc<br />
We sat it out, not sleeping at all, and when dawn<br />
came we ventured out onto Grace Bay Beach. It was eerily<br />
calm and <strong>the</strong> sand line had been totally altered. Perhaps<br />
a million tons <strong>of</strong> sand along this coast had been shifted<br />
overnight. We walked <strong>the</strong> streets <strong>of</strong> Grace Bay assessing<br />
trees down and ro<strong>of</strong>s blown <strong>of</strong>f, although luckily we<br />
had not been subject to <strong>the</strong> annihilation <strong>of</strong> some o<strong>the</strong>r<br />
Caribbean <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
I was sent a picture, (remarkably FLOW had kept <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
service throughout) and it showed a photo <strong>of</strong> The Shore<br />
Club taken from hundreds <strong>of</strong> meters out with <strong>the</strong> water<br />
drained from <strong>the</strong> Caicos Bank by <strong>the</strong> wind motion.<br />
I was being contacted by global news outlets such<br />
as CNN and <strong>the</strong> BBC, who were picking up my Instagram<br />
posts and were desperate for live news on <strong>the</strong> state <strong>of</strong> our<br />
<strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
In <strong>the</strong> first day and those that followed, it was obvious<br />
that it was not <strong>the</strong> storm itself that would make us<br />
suffer, but <strong>the</strong> after-effects—no power, water or communications.<br />
Those <strong>of</strong> us who stocked up were thankful we<br />
had. Soon lines for gas were forming, with some drivers<br />
waiting six hours or more to be allotted a ration <strong>of</strong> some<br />
five gallons.<br />
Already, before <strong>the</strong> now approaching Hurricane Maria<br />
hit <strong>the</strong> TCI, <strong>the</strong> community was pulling toge<strong>the</strong>r and raising<br />
funds, supplies and awareness for those in need. I am<br />
very attached to <strong>the</strong> out islands, so it was with great relief<br />
I was able to take a boat to South Caicos to check on my<br />
good friend Tim Hamilton and take some basic supplies<br />
<strong>of</strong> food and water for him to distribute.<br />
South Caicos had been hit hard, with many ro<strong>of</strong>s<br />
taken <strong>of</strong>f and 232 <strong>of</strong> its 234 developments receiving<br />
some form <strong>of</strong> damage, with 51 being totally destroyed. It<br />
was here <strong>the</strong> UK military, now in force across <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>,<br />
Tim Hamilton distributes food and water<br />
to residents <strong>of</strong> South Caicos.
JOHN GALLEYMORE<br />
JOHN GALLEYMORE<br />
AGILE LEVIN<br />
had <strong>the</strong>ir work cut out for <strong>the</strong>m. They organized logistics<br />
and started to clear <strong>the</strong> harbor, all while <strong>the</strong> sounds <strong>of</strong><br />
helicopters and cargo planes filled <strong>the</strong> air.<br />
Shortly after <strong>the</strong> hurricanes, <strong>the</strong> Sailrock development<br />
created <strong>the</strong> South Caicos Heritage Foundation to help<br />
preserve and support <strong>the</strong> local community in rebuilding.<br />
Immediately after Hurricane Irma, <strong>the</strong> Sailrock team provided<br />
aid in <strong>the</strong> form <strong>of</strong> materials, equipment, operators<br />
and logistical support, along with food and water.<br />
My next concern was that <strong>of</strong> Salt Cay, and although<br />
<strong>the</strong> residents were subject to a mandatory evacuation<br />
order, a dozen or do had chosen to stay and <strong>the</strong>re was<br />
no word from <strong>the</strong>m. A few days later, a small group <strong>of</strong><br />
us consisting <strong>of</strong> Dan and Agile LeVin, Jon Ward and Judy<br />
Dirckx were arranging supplies and relief efforts when we<br />
were <strong>of</strong>fered a ride on a Chinook to visit Salt Cay.<br />
The residents greeting us looked shell-shocked.<br />
Although <strong>the</strong>y had a solar-powered reverse osmosis system<br />
set up and <strong>the</strong> TCI Government had sent over many<br />
supplies, it was fresh food <strong>the</strong>y craved. Thanks to Judy on<br />
Providenciales who rounded up donations, we were able<br />
to supplement <strong>the</strong> relief efforts by sending over a ton <strong>of</strong><br />
food underslung on <strong>the</strong> helicopter.<br />
There was substantial damage to most ro<strong>of</strong>s, lots <strong>of</strong><br />
debris, trees down and no power. Yet within two months,<br />
power had been restored, major debris cleared from <strong>the</strong><br />
harbour area, and <strong>the</strong> main roads were driveable. The<br />
ferry service between Grand Turk and Salt Cay currently<br />
runs three times per week, plus extra freight runs as<br />
needed. With <strong>the</strong> primary school devastated, kids are<br />
attending school in Grand Turk.<br />
North District businesses and rental villas were open<br />
by December. The north shore beach has settled with<br />
steeper shoreline but a wonderful bright expanse <strong>of</strong><br />
sand. The nearby reef is gorgeous and in good health.<br />
Salt Cay Divers are organizing reef cleanups with <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
scuba guests who wish to volunteer, church restoration<br />
projects are being developed in which guests can assist<br />
and <strong>the</strong> arrival <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> whales in mid-January is hotly anticipated.<br />
All over TCI, in <strong>the</strong> weeks that followed <strong>the</strong> storms<br />
life got back to some normality. Many expatriates chose<br />
to leave <strong>the</strong> country, albeit temporarily. Many had unlivable<br />
homes; some needed to decompress and re-charge<br />
after a harrowing ordeal. Ro<strong>of</strong>s were repaired as supplies<br />
filtered in and power and water slowly restored. The TCI<br />
was down but most definitely not out, and we would<br />
rebuild and recover with a greater sense <strong>of</strong> community<br />
spirit and fortitude than ever before. a<br />
From top: Residents <strong>of</strong> South Caicos meet <strong>the</strong> Caicos Ferry, a vital link<br />
to receive supplies and return to Providenciales to stay with family<br />
and friends.<br />
Many historic buildings on South Caicos and Salt Cay were lost to <strong>the</strong><br />
hurricanes.<br />
Salt Cay’s iconic White House is still standing, although a bit worse for<br />
<strong>the</strong> wear. The Dunn family is working hard to preserve it.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 49
GARY JAMES–PROVO PICTURES
feature<br />
Initial assessment revealed that approximately 80% <strong>of</strong> all residences in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> received some level <strong>of</strong> damage following<br />
<strong>the</strong> passage <strong>of</strong> Hurricanes Irma and Maria this fall, most commonly to ro<strong>of</strong>s.<br />
MARTA MORTON—WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM<br />
Putting a Lid on It . . .<br />
and keeping it on.<br />
By Peter Kerrigan, Director, Engineering Design Services<br />
As a young boy, my mo<strong>the</strong>r took me and my siblings to see <strong>the</strong> musical “Fiddler on <strong>the</strong> Ro<strong>of</strong>.” My younger<br />
bro<strong>the</strong>r nearly had a heart attack when <strong>the</strong> graveyard scene was shown. Myself, well I was simply horrified<br />
at <strong>the</strong> condition <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong> and very concerned for <strong>the</strong> safety <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> fiddler. Clearly I was destined to be<br />
a structural engineer.<br />
Ro<strong>of</strong>s are like people, <strong>the</strong>y come in all shapes and sizes and some are healthier than o<strong>the</strong>rs. The negative<br />
effects <strong>of</strong> Hurricanes Irma and Maria in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> this autumn clearly demonstrated<br />
<strong>the</strong> importance <strong>of</strong> having a strong and fit ro<strong>of</strong> when living in a hurricane-prone area.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 51
Hurricane Irma, which struck <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />
<strong>Islands</strong> on September 7–8, <strong>2017</strong>, was <strong>the</strong> closest<br />
approach <strong>of</strong> a Category 5 hurricane to <strong>the</strong> country on<br />
record, with all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> country’s islands being affected.<br />
Accumulated Cyclone Energy (ACE) is a measure used by<br />
<strong>the</strong> National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration<br />
(NOAA) to approximate <strong>the</strong> wind energy used by a tropical<br />
system over its lifetime. Hurricane Irma generated<br />
<strong>the</strong> most ACE on record in <strong>the</strong> tropical Atlantic, and even<br />
more than <strong>18</strong> entire Atlantic hurricane seasons in <strong>the</strong> satellite<br />
era (since 1966). Irma’s peak sustained winds were<br />
estimated at <strong>18</strong>5 MPH, with gusts even higher. That’s<br />
what <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong>s <strong>of</strong> dwellings across <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos had<br />
to contend with.<br />
How did <strong>the</strong>y fare? In its rapid assessment report<br />
post-Hurricane Irma, <strong>the</strong> Caribbean Disaster Emergency<br />
Management Agency (CDEMA) reported that <strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />
Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> suffered nearly 80% damage to its housing<br />
stock and critical infrastructure during <strong>the</strong> hurricane’s<br />
passage. The report concluded that damage across <strong>the</strong><br />
TCI was similar in nature and related largely to ro<strong>of</strong> damage,<br />
especially level one damage. This was categorized<br />
as: loss <strong>of</strong> ro<strong>of</strong> tiles, small sections <strong>of</strong> ro<strong>of</strong> damage or<br />
destroyed windows or door damage, guttering and eave<br />
damage or loss, water damage to sections <strong>of</strong> ceilings and<br />
varying degrees <strong>of</strong> water intrusion.<br />
Anyone who viewed <strong>the</strong> TCI “live” or via photos on<br />
<strong>the</strong> Internet in <strong>the</strong> weeks and months following <strong>the</strong> storm<br />
would bear witness to <strong>the</strong> magnitude or severity <strong>of</strong> ro<strong>of</strong><br />
damage. Blue tarp and peel and seal was too common<br />
a sight. Sadly, it was an especially wet “rainy season” in<br />
October and November, and those who did not have <strong>the</strong><br />
means to quickly repair <strong>the</strong>ir ro<strong>of</strong>s suffered greatly with<br />
additional water damage and resultant mold.<br />
The geometry <strong>of</strong> a ro<strong>of</strong> plays a significant role in how<br />
it performs in high winds. Steep pitched ro<strong>of</strong>s react differently<br />
than shallow pitched or flat ro<strong>of</strong>s and <strong>the</strong> direction<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> wind relative to a particular ro<strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong>ten determines<br />
if <strong>the</strong> wind pressures are positive (pushing) or negative<br />
(suction). There is a misconception that <strong>the</strong> predominant<br />
pressure exerted on a building is a positive pressure.<br />
Depending on ro<strong>of</strong> type and wind direction, <strong>the</strong>re is just<br />
as much chance <strong>of</strong> a suction wind pressure being applied<br />
as a positive pressure.<br />
It goes without saying that all ro<strong>of</strong>s should be<br />
designed and built to withstand <strong>the</strong>se pressures.<br />
Engineers determine <strong>the</strong>se pressures from loading codes<br />
such as ASCE-7, an integral part <strong>of</strong> building codes in <strong>the</strong><br />
United States, published by <strong>the</strong> American Society <strong>of</strong> Civil<br />
FIGURE A<br />
FIGURE B<br />
Rafter to Wall Connection is critical.<br />
FIGURE C<br />
Truss to Wall Connection is critical.<br />
FIGURE D<br />
Rafter to Wall Connection is critical.<br />
Cut or Stick Ro<strong>of</strong><br />
Cut or Stick Ro<strong>of</strong> with a Collar Tie<br />
Truss Ro<strong>of</strong><br />
Indicative Details Only<br />
Installed GC4 GC6Z<br />
Rafter<br />
Collar Tie<br />
Rafter<br />
Triangulation<br />
Rafter<br />
Bottom Chord<br />
Hurricane Clip<br />
Engineers. The code describes <strong>the</strong> means for determining<br />
dead, live, soil, flood, tsunami, snow, rain, atmospheric<br />
ice, earthquake and wind loads, and <strong>the</strong>ir many combinations<br />
are <strong>the</strong>n used as <strong>the</strong> basis for structural analysis<br />
and design.<br />
The resultant design pressures are used to analyze<br />
<strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong> frame and cladding (covering) and <strong>the</strong> building<br />
GC6Z<br />
as a whole. The negative pressures are used to determine<br />
uplift loads at rafter or truss-bearing points and those<br />
Bolt Hole to<br />
loads are used to determine what strap or Beam mechanical<br />
Edge Depth<br />
fixing is chosen to restrain/hold down <strong>the</strong> rafter or truss.<br />
Simpson or USP are <strong>the</strong> most common straps or fixings.<br />
The too-<strong>of</strong>ten installed “hurricane clip” (See Figure D<br />
above) should not be used on residential projects. They<br />
52 www.timespub.tc
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are too small for most, if not all, residential projects and<br />
do not have sufficient capacity to cope with <strong>the</strong> uplift<br />
loads resulting from a hurricane. Instead, hurricane<br />
straps <strong>of</strong> adequate size should be used.<br />
All ro<strong>of</strong>s should be shea<strong>the</strong>d (decked) with ei<strong>the</strong>r<br />
plywood or Tongue & Groove boards. It provides <strong>the</strong> substrate<br />
to which <strong>the</strong> peel and seal and ro<strong>of</strong> finish is laid.<br />
The sheathing should be at least 5/8" thick but some ro<strong>of</strong><br />
finishes require a fixing embedment <strong>of</strong> 3/4" to achieve<br />
compliance, and in such cases <strong>the</strong> sheathing installed<br />
should be 3/4” thick.<br />
The sheathing should be secured to <strong>the</strong> rafters at<br />
a minimum <strong>of</strong> 6" centers throughout <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong> surface.<br />
Leading edges along <strong>the</strong> ridge, eaves and hips should be<br />
secured at 4" centers. Adequate fixings with appropriate<br />
embedment into <strong>the</strong> rafters should be installed. The hotdipped<br />
galvanized “Ring Shank” nail is a good example <strong>of</strong><br />
a recommended fixing.<br />
The sheathing is not only utilized as a substrate on<br />
which to fix <strong>the</strong> peel and seal or ro<strong>of</strong> finish. A critical part<br />
<strong>of</strong> its job is to provide diaphragm action to <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong>. This<br />
diaphragm action essentially stiffens <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong> plane and<br />
helps to transmit lateral (horizontal) loads to <strong>the</strong> main<br />
walls and downwards to <strong>the</strong> foundations. The sheathing<br />
and how it is connected to a ro<strong>of</strong> in a hurricane zone is<br />
all-important.<br />
The ro<strong>of</strong> or ro<strong>of</strong> framing can be constructed in many<br />
different ways and some ro<strong>of</strong>s are by <strong>the</strong>ir nature more<br />
stable than o<strong>the</strong>rs. A “stick” or “cut” ro<strong>of</strong> is a perfectly<br />
acceptable ro<strong>of</strong> if <strong>the</strong> rafter size is appropriate for <strong>the</strong><br />
span, however if a collar tie is included <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong> becomes<br />
more stable by default. (See Figures A & B at left.) A full<br />
truss is yet more stable and probably <strong>the</strong> most stable <strong>of</strong><br />
all ro<strong>of</strong>s by virtue <strong>of</strong> its triangulation. (See Figure C at<br />
left.) Each ro<strong>of</strong> type and its associated member sizes will<br />
have <strong>the</strong>ir limitations, and depending on what ro<strong>of</strong> or<br />
combinations <strong>of</strong> ro<strong>of</strong> styles are chosen by a homeowner,<br />
<strong>the</strong> engineer must design accordingly.<br />
The structure onto which <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong> will be supported<br />
must also be well designed and fit for purpose.<br />
Reinforced walls should incorporate stiffener columns<br />
and belt or ring beams. Timber frame buildings should<br />
be braced to prevent racking or lateral sway. (This can<br />
also be achieved by sheathing <strong>the</strong> inside or outside <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> timber stud walls with plywood.) The ro<strong>of</strong> on a timber<br />
frame building needs to be connected to <strong>the</strong> wall,<br />
which in turn needs to be connected to <strong>the</strong> floor, and <strong>the</strong><br />
floor to <strong>the</strong> foundations. And very importantly, <strong>the</strong> weight<br />
combination <strong>of</strong> all elements needs to be greater than <strong>the</strong><br />
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<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 53
total uplift load resulting from a hurricane storm.<br />
Any ro<strong>of</strong> should be well maintained over its lifespan.<br />
All enclosed timber ro<strong>of</strong>s should be well ventilated, but<br />
not too much so that it weakens <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong>. Timbers and<br />
plywood should be pressure-treated.<br />
We structural engineers are <strong>of</strong>ten accused <strong>of</strong> overdesigning.<br />
My typical response is, “We design for <strong>the</strong><br />
worst case scenario.” Now, many <strong>of</strong> us know what that<br />
worst case scenario looks and feels like. We all hope and<br />
pray we won’t have to experience one again. But in all<br />
likelihood, we will. So we should at least be prepared.<br />
The finished ro<strong>of</strong> is more than a ro<strong>of</strong>. It is one <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> most important components <strong>of</strong> a home. It protects<br />
<strong>the</strong> building, your family and your possessions. It should<br />
be well designed and well constructed—well fit to host a<br />
fiddler like Irma, should she turn up to play a tune. a<br />
54 www.timespub.tc
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feature<br />
MARTA MORTON—WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM<br />
Residents <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos had need for adequate insurance after Hurricanes Irma and Maria tore through <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> this fall. Sadly,<br />
reports by <strong>the</strong> Caribbean Disaster Emergency Management Agency (CDEMA) revealed that only 14% <strong>of</strong> total houses damaged had home<br />
insurance that covered disaster risk.<br />
To Need and Not Have . . .<br />
A look at insurance in <strong>the</strong> face <strong>of</strong> disaster.<br />
By Craig Archibold, Account Executive, Property & Casualty, NW Hamilton Insurance Services Ltd.<br />
As I reflect on <strong>the</strong> events <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> unprecedented <strong>2017</strong> hurricane season, I found myself in deep consideration<br />
<strong>of</strong> an old saying my mo<strong>the</strong>r would always say to us as children, “Better to have and not need, than<br />
to need and not have.”<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 57
As an insurance pr<strong>of</strong>essional, I understand this as a<br />
modern thought that was in some way ahead <strong>of</strong> its time.<br />
Our society has grown tremendously over <strong>the</strong> past 30+<br />
years and today’s economy has come with major financial<br />
commitments and personal investments that demand a<br />
wise approach to managing our risk associated with hurricanes<br />
and o<strong>the</strong>r natural catastrophes.<br />
To need and not have is a great motivation for us<br />
in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. There is truly no greater<br />
security to your property investments in <strong>the</strong> TCI than<br />
insurance. As a community, <strong>the</strong> instrument <strong>of</strong> insurance<br />
must become a part <strong>of</strong> our vernacular as a tool in managing<br />
risk and protecting our hard-earned assets—and not<br />
simply thought <strong>of</strong> as an enforced mortgage requirement<br />
and expense.<br />
Insurance is <strong>the</strong> antidote to <strong>the</strong> “need and not have”<br />
dilemma. It is not a scheme or a proverbial money pit;<br />
something that you pay into, but get nothing back from.<br />
Some invoke such talking point with no experience <strong>of</strong> an<br />
unfortunate event that threatens personal investments<br />
accumulated in <strong>the</strong> short or long term. Insurance has<br />
been tested and tried for centuries as <strong>the</strong> ultimate security<br />
fix to an unknown financial loss. It is in fact a valuable<br />
tool in your pocket to protect your interest and more than<br />
a bank-required instrument <strong>of</strong> security.<br />
Throughout centuries, insurance has been proven<br />
to be a tool and security feature to safeguard assets. In<br />
1601, <strong>the</strong> first insurance legislation was enacted in <strong>the</strong><br />
United Kingdom; coverage for merchandise and ships has<br />
its roots in this law. It was necessary to make arrangements<br />
and plan contingencies to ensure that merchants<br />
did not lose all <strong>the</strong>ir investments tied up in cargo and<br />
ship owners did not lose <strong>the</strong>ir source <strong>of</strong> wealth if <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
ships went down and were taken by <strong>the</strong> sea. With <strong>the</strong><br />
increasing demand for ship and cargo insurance, Edward<br />
Lloyd’s C<strong>of</strong>fee Shop became recognized as <strong>the</strong> place for<br />
obtaining marine insurance; this is where “Lloyd’s” that<br />
we know today began.<br />
Although insurance in London began with Lloyd’s<br />
<strong>of</strong> London, <strong>the</strong> methodology <strong>of</strong> pooling <strong>the</strong> reserves <strong>of</strong><br />
many to pay for <strong>the</strong> claims <strong>of</strong> few was recreated throughout<br />
financial corporations, who took insurance out<br />
beyond marine and cargo insurance. In today’s insurance<br />
industry, most types <strong>of</strong> insurance can be sourced and <strong>the</strong><br />
models established globally are centered on this shared<br />
principal objective—<strong>the</strong> belief that <strong>the</strong>re is strength in<br />
numbers, a joint force against all kinds <strong>of</strong> calamities<br />
including financial troubles.<br />
In 1688, <strong>the</strong> home insurance industry would be<br />
established, ushering in a paradigm for o<strong>the</strong>r lines <strong>of</strong><br />
insurance cover. The types <strong>of</strong> insurance available in <strong>the</strong><br />
modern insurance market are wide and varied. However,<br />
general insurance underwritten by insurance companies<br />
is typically restricted to mainstream insurance such as:<br />
commercial property, household/homeowner’s, liability<br />
and motor insurance. Household (property) insurance is<br />
a personal line <strong>of</strong> insurance, however in much <strong>the</strong> same<br />
way, commercial property is covered against <strong>the</strong> risk <strong>of</strong><br />
fire, flood, storm, <strong>the</strong>ft, malicious damage and accidental<br />
damage.<br />
When pursuing <strong>the</strong> purchase <strong>of</strong> insurance <strong>the</strong>re are<br />
a few considerations. One would be to know your asset<br />
This ironic shot shows hurricane debris on Grand Turk<br />
following <strong>the</strong> passage <strong>of</strong> Hurricane Irma.<br />
GEORGINA STUBBS<br />
58 www.timespub.tc
Blue Loos_Layout 1 5/28/17 4:13 PM Page 1<br />
value and imagine for a brief moment how losing it with<br />
no recourse for restoration would impact you financially.<br />
The concept <strong>of</strong> insuring and having adequate coverage<br />
is <strong>of</strong>ten misunderstood and to a large degree taken for<br />
granted. The disproportionate nature <strong>of</strong> underinsuring<br />
your property comes with great financial exposure. A<br />
guide to recover from such potential crisis would be to<br />
consult a qualified evaluator for property evaluation. This<br />
puts you in a strong position <strong>of</strong> understanding your property’s<br />
worth as it seeks to establish <strong>the</strong> replacement value<br />
<strong>of</strong> your property consistent with current market trends.<br />
With property values in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos among <strong>the</strong><br />
highest in <strong>the</strong> region and <strong>the</strong> daunting cost <strong>of</strong> construction<br />
to replace assets, conventional wisdom demands<br />
having added security against property loss and business<br />
interruption. The need to have insurance has become a<br />
must-have. Policies such as homeowner’s and commercial<br />
property insurance are <strong>the</strong> leading coverage in our local<br />
industry.<br />
The meteorological predictions for <strong>the</strong> <strong>2017</strong> hurricane<br />
season anticipated that <strong>the</strong> season would bear much<br />
activity. With <strong>the</strong> reality <strong>of</strong> major storms Ike, Hanna, Irma<br />
and Maria within <strong>the</strong> past nine years, <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />
<strong>Islands</strong> are still processing and grappling with <strong>the</strong>ir after-<br />
All your septic tank solutions<br />
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Call IWWTT on 232 1279 for information<br />
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<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 59
CROSSING AFRICA UPDATE<br />
Since our Fall update, Mario Rigby has travelled<br />
from Sudan to Egypt and is expected to finish<br />
his journey from Cape to Cairo on December 30,<br />
<strong>2017</strong>. Look for <strong>the</strong> story in <strong>the</strong> Spring 20<strong>18</strong> issue<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
math, although <strong>the</strong> road to recovery has been rapid. Our<br />
community has learned that “to need and not have” is no<br />
longer an option to avert a financial loss. With <strong>the</strong> devastation<br />
<strong>of</strong> homes, businesses and infrastructure occurring<br />
in hours, even with sufficient warnings, our best construction,<br />
best intentions and every conceivable precaution,<br />
<strong>the</strong> force <strong>of</strong> nature is overwhelming and destructive.<br />
We must recognize <strong>the</strong> catastrophic nature <strong>of</strong> hurricanes<br />
and <strong>the</strong> devastating after-effects <strong>the</strong>y have both<br />
financial and emotionally. We believe that communities<br />
at large are better served when <strong>the</strong>y make <strong>the</strong> necessary<br />
preparation to mitigate loss during such times. The tempests<br />
know no bounds and destruction <strong>the</strong>refore is not<br />
confined to any particular demographic, economic or cultural<br />
class.<br />
Whe<strong>the</strong>r you agree with <strong>the</strong> arguments for climate<br />
change or not, <strong>the</strong> earth is warming and <strong>the</strong> noticeable<br />
differences in wea<strong>the</strong>r patterns continue to escalate,<br />
producing peculiar natural disasters around <strong>the</strong> globe.<br />
Hurricanes remain a great threat to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />
<strong>Islands</strong> and <strong>the</strong> region. It is incumbent that we lobby for<br />
changes or affirm policies in our building codes and hope<br />
that <strong>the</strong> relevant government agencies oversee <strong>the</strong> proper<br />
construction <strong>of</strong> neighboring buildings; <strong>the</strong> absence <strong>of</strong><br />
such oversight, however, will not negate our responsibility<br />
to insure our properties.<br />
The insurance industry in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong><br />
is well regulated and thus far has made good on its<br />
claims in Hurricanes Ike and Hanna (2008), and <strong>the</strong> recent<br />
double whammies <strong>of</strong> Hurricanes Irma and Maria. The<br />
Financial Services Commission has always been proactive<br />
in its obligations to see that those operating in <strong>the</strong> industry<br />
are solvent and are sufficiently reinsured.<br />
The experience from <strong>the</strong> recent hurricane events,<br />
and in particular <strong>the</strong>ir effects, provides a plethora <strong>of</strong><br />
lessons to compel rational minds that threats are no<br />
longer probabilities but ra<strong>the</strong>r reality for <strong>the</strong> foreseeable<br />
future. Destruction can be self-imposed and in most<br />
cases beyond human control in <strong>the</strong> context <strong>of</strong> a natural<br />
disaster. This gives more reason than none to better<br />
prepare ourselves to mitigate a potential loss during any<br />
unfortunate catastrophe that comes with warning and<br />
unforeseen circumstances. I believe that this can only be<br />
achieved by having appropriate and adequate insurance<br />
coverage and heeding <strong>the</strong> warnings established through<br />
<strong>of</strong>ficial government and private agencies to protect us<br />
from financial vulnerabilities, because it is better to have<br />
and not need, than to need and not have. a<br />
60 www.timespub.tc
astrolabe<br />
newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
front street, p.o. box <strong>18</strong>8, grand turk, turks & caicos islands, bwi<br />
tel 649 946 2160 • fax 649 946 2160 • email info@tcmuseum.org • web www.tcmuseum.org<br />
PAT SAXTON<br />
This is <strong>the</strong> state <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum’s exhibit<br />
building, <strong>the</strong> Guinep House, following <strong>the</strong> combined beating <strong>of</strong><br />
Hurricanes Irma and Maria on Grand Turk in September <strong>2017</strong>.<br />
Starting Over<br />
By Dr. Donald H. Keith, President,<br />
Turks & Caicos National Museum Foundation<br />
<strong>2017</strong>: a year to forget? No, a year to remember! Yes, we all suffered losses, but we also learned<br />
important lessons that must not be forgotten as we start over with our lives and livelihoods after “IrMaria,”<br />
<strong>the</strong> two powerful hurricanes that slammed into Grand Turk only two weeks apart with 150+ MPH winds<br />
striking from both east and west.<br />
This issue features two stories about starting over. In one, <strong>the</strong> intellectual curiosity <strong>of</strong> a Tennessee<br />
schoolteacher leads her to re-invent her life in <strong>the</strong> process <strong>of</strong> single-handedly uncovering a largely forgotten,<br />
but critical, episode in <strong>the</strong> history <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. The subjects <strong>of</strong> her study, <strong>the</strong> “Georgia<br />
Loyalists,” were <strong>the</strong>mselves starting over, having been driven out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> United States after <strong>the</strong> War <strong>of</strong><br />
Independence more than 200 years ago.<br />
In <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r, we learn <strong>the</strong> previously untold story <strong>of</strong> a group <strong>of</strong> 19 Californians who decided to abandon<br />
<strong>the</strong> US and start <strong>the</strong>ir lives over on an island paradise—East Caicos! Unfortunately for <strong>the</strong>m, <strong>the</strong><br />
realities were considerably different from <strong>the</strong>ir dreams. The moral <strong>of</strong> this story seems to be “Fortune<br />
does not favor <strong>the</strong> unprepared.”<br />
But fortune does favor <strong>the</strong> prepared! Following <strong>the</strong> destruction <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Victoria Library by arson earlier<br />
this year, <strong>the</strong> Museum is installing state-<strong>of</strong>-<strong>the</strong>-art fire suppression and security systems in both <strong>the</strong><br />
Guinep House and <strong>the</strong> Science Building. There is nothing humans can do to prevent hurricanes, but after<br />
months without power on Grand Turk following IrMaria, we are installing our own diesel-powered 50<br />
KW generator so that when storms hit in <strong>the</strong> future, we can keep <strong>the</strong> lights and security systems on, and<br />
climate control running to protect our collections and exhibits.<br />
Perhaps <strong>the</strong> most important lesson learned is that <strong>the</strong> Museum’s location on Grand Turk, 64 feet<br />
from <strong>the</strong> North Atlantic Ocean, is too vulnerable to destruction from hurricane winds and flooding to<br />
be <strong>the</strong> repository for all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Museum’s collections and holdings. At least some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most fragile<br />
and precious books, photographs, letters and artifacts must be moved to a more secure, purpose-built<br />
structure at <strong>the</strong> Museum’s campus, more than half a mile from <strong>the</strong> sea, in <strong>the</strong> Village at Grace Bay on<br />
Providenciales. A National Museum is not defined by <strong>the</strong> buildings it occupies, but by <strong>the</strong> collections it<br />
is responsible for. If its collections are destroyed, it cannot just start over. a<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 61
astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
DONALD H. KEITH<br />
These ruins can still be found on <strong>the</strong> shore at Jacksonville, East Caicos.<br />
Modern Crusoes<br />
“Streamlined Pioneers” seek utopia on East Caicos.<br />
By Jeffrey Dodge<br />
Newspapers all over America called <strong>the</strong>m “Utopians,” “Streamlined Pioneers,” “Modern Crusoes,” “New<br />
Life Seekers” and “Colonists.” These were just a few <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> monikers given to a group <strong>of</strong> 19 Californians<br />
seeking “to get away from civilization as it now operates for <strong>the</strong> lesser-privileged.” Group leader Richard C.<br />
Irvine said, “We have a chance to attain a security we cannot get in <strong>the</strong> United States because <strong>of</strong> uncertain<br />
social conditions and <strong>the</strong> terrific differential in wage scales and taxes.” Sound familiar? Like something<br />
you might read in <strong>the</strong> papers today? No—this was 78 years ago!<br />
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The pioneers<br />
In late 1939, a party <strong>of</strong> five California families and three<br />
bachelors, totaling nineteen, formed a closed corporation<br />
<strong>the</strong>y called <strong>the</strong> East Caicos Trading Company. They sold<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir homes, left <strong>the</strong>ir jobs and friends and prepared to<br />
move to East Caicos, <strong>the</strong> largest uninhabited island in<br />
<strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos. Members <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> group ranged in age<br />
from 17 months to 69 years. Among <strong>the</strong>m were a traveling<br />
salesman, a carpenter for Walt Disney, a housekeeper<br />
for Mary Pickford, a retired Standard Oil Co. engineer,<br />
a horticulturist, an electrician, an insurance investigator<br />
and a nurse. It was reported that members <strong>of</strong> this group<br />
were selected from “hundreds” that replied to advertisements—however,<br />
no such ads have been found to date.<br />
Paradise chosen<br />
They selected East Caicos because Mrs. Grace Lake (née<br />
Reynolds), a member <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> group, owned a large tract <strong>of</strong><br />
land <strong>the</strong>re. Grace Lake’s Irish fa<strong>the</strong>r, John N. Reynolds,<br />
moved to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> about <strong>18</strong>56 and<br />
became a salt merchant with salinas on South Caicos.<br />
As trustee for his four children, Reynolds acquired 1,288<br />
acres at Breezy Point on <strong>the</strong> north shore <strong>of</strong> East Caicos<br />
in <strong>18</strong>71, as well as a 99-year lease from <strong>the</strong> British<br />
Government for most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> rest <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> island.<br />
His initial intention was to raise cattle and supply meat<br />
to neighboring islands. By <strong>18</strong>84, Reynolds was extracting<br />
and selling bat guano from caves in <strong>the</strong> interior for<br />
fertilizer. He was also involved in <strong>the</strong> sisal industry that<br />
began <strong>the</strong>re about <strong>18</strong>90. The guano played out in late<br />
<strong>18</strong>80s and, unable to compete with <strong>the</strong> superior qualities<br />
<strong>of</strong> manila hemp from <strong>the</strong> Philippines, <strong>the</strong> sisal operation<br />
ceased about 1919. Abandoned when both <strong>the</strong>se<br />
commercial operations failed, substantial industrial and<br />
residential structures still lie about <strong>the</strong> island, including a<br />
narrow gauge railroad built to move sisal from <strong>the</strong> fields<br />
to <strong>the</strong> processing area.<br />
Grace Reynolds was born on <strong>the</strong> Turks <strong>Islands</strong> in<br />
<strong>18</strong>81 and lived <strong>the</strong>re until she moved to Boston with her<br />
mo<strong>the</strong>r Elizabeth and three siblings in <strong>18</strong>90. With <strong>the</strong><br />
death <strong>of</strong> her bro<strong>the</strong>r John Jr. in 1925, Grace became <strong>the</strong><br />
sole owner <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> property at Breezy Point as well as <strong>the</strong><br />
years remaining on <strong>the</strong> 99-year lease. She married her<br />
second husband, James Lake, in 1925. It is not known<br />
when in <strong>the</strong> late 1930s <strong>the</strong> Lakes moved to California<br />
from Massachusetts or how <strong>the</strong>y met Richard C. Irvine,<br />
From top: Grace and James Lake plan <strong>the</strong>ir journey to East Caicos.<br />
The yacht Spindrift is tied up in <strong>the</strong> Miami River in February 1940.<br />
Members <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> group pose aboard Spindrift in Miami just before<br />
departing for East Caicos in February 1940.<br />
who became <strong>the</strong> leader <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> group <strong>of</strong> Californians seeking<br />
a better life on East Caicos.<br />
Records show that James Lake returned to New<br />
York from a trip to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos in April 1934.<br />
Recounting his experiences on this trip, Lake told <strong>the</strong><br />
California “pioneers” that he visited East Caicos and found<br />
it to be a virtual “Paradise.” He excitedly described <strong>the</strong><br />
island as covered in hardwood forests (mahogany and<br />
lignum vitae) as well as papayas and fruit trees. O<strong>the</strong>r<br />
INGRID POHL AND JANET POHL-SCHOLLENBERG<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 63
astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
DONALD H. KEITH<br />
hides and <strong>the</strong> bat guano found in <strong>the</strong> caves for fertilizer.<br />
There was also sisal to cultivate, and papaya fruits and<br />
shark liver oil to turn into medicinal products.<br />
In addition to <strong>the</strong> many resources waiting for <strong>the</strong>m<br />
on East Caicos, <strong>the</strong> “adventurers” brought clothing, tents,<br />
food for three months, and tools for building homes<br />
and growing crops. They reportedly shipped separately<br />
several tons <strong>of</strong> goods including electrical generating<br />
equipment for lights, hundreds <strong>of</strong> seeds, additional tools<br />
and radio equipment to establish a broadcasting station.<br />
These items were shipped from California to Jamaica<br />
where <strong>the</strong>y would eventually be forwarded to East Caicos.<br />
Whe<strong>the</strong>r or not <strong>the</strong>se supplies ever reached East Caicos is<br />
unknown. There was a report that <strong>the</strong> shipment was held<br />
up in Panama because <strong>of</strong> lost documentation.<br />
INGRID POHL AND JANET POHL-SCHOLLENBERG<br />
The stone house ruins still standing at Jacksonville, East Caicos (top)<br />
appear similar to <strong>the</strong> structure seen in <strong>the</strong> image (above) <strong>of</strong> James<br />
Lake, Richard Irvine (group leader), Olaf Lornsten and Gaston Blum,<br />
captain <strong>of</strong> Spindrift, on East Caicos.<br />
resources <strong>of</strong> potential economic benefit included hundreds<br />
<strong>of</strong> wild cattle and thousands <strong>of</strong> wild donkeys from<br />
<strong>the</strong> days <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sisal enterprise twenty years earlier. The<br />
sisal industry, he said, had also left behind two concrete<br />
35,000-gallon water catchment tanks that would provide<br />
fresh water for <strong>the</strong> group. There was even talk that East<br />
Caicos was once <strong>the</strong> haunt <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> pirate Henry Morgan,<br />
suggesting buried treasure was a possibility!<br />
Careful planning and many promises<br />
Roughing it was not part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> plan. James Lake and<br />
Richard Irvine explained to <strong>the</strong> group that <strong>the</strong>y would initially<br />
live in tents and later build permanent homes from<br />
<strong>the</strong> lumber <strong>the</strong>y would harvest from <strong>the</strong> hardwood forests.<br />
They could support <strong>the</strong>mselves by selling <strong>the</strong> cattle<br />
and donkeys roaming wild on <strong>the</strong> island for meat and<br />
The journey was rough<br />
The trip to “Paradise” began on January 16, 1940, with<br />
<strong>the</strong> group leaving California for Florida in two cars, a<br />
truck and a trailer. Each family paid between $1,000 and<br />
$2,000 to participate in this venture (roughly equivalent<br />
to $17,000–$34,000 today!) Group leader Irvine stated<br />
that <strong>the</strong> total cost <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> venture was $10,000 ($170,000<br />
today) and that he expected <strong>the</strong>y would be self-supporting<br />
within three months.<br />
The journey to Florida was difficult and many in <strong>the</strong><br />
party were sick with colds by <strong>the</strong> time <strong>the</strong>y arrived in<br />
Tampa on January 24. They sold <strong>the</strong> automobiles, truck,<br />
and trailer in Miami and two or three weeks later signed<br />
an agreement with George Conley and Capt. Gaston Blum<br />
<strong>of</strong> Chicago to provide transportation for <strong>the</strong> group to East<br />
Caicos on <strong>the</strong> yacht Spindrift.<br />
The group left Miami on Spindrift for East Caicos<br />
on February <strong>18</strong>, 1940. The agreement between <strong>the</strong><br />
Conley-Blum syndicate and <strong>the</strong> “colonists” included free<br />
transportation to East Caicos in exchange for rights to<br />
develop <strong>the</strong> island into a tourist resort. Conley and Blum<br />
were to promote <strong>the</strong> island back in <strong>the</strong> U.S., transport<br />
more people and supplies to <strong>the</strong> Island, and eventually<br />
establish a resort <strong>the</strong>re. Colonizing East Caicos<br />
was beginning to look more and more like a businessfor-pr<strong>of</strong>it<br />
venture and less like <strong>the</strong> co-operative colony<br />
originally envisioned.<br />
East Caicos at last<br />
Spindrift arrived at East Caicos on March 2, 1940. The<br />
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wea<strong>the</strong>r had been terrible and <strong>the</strong> passage was rough—<br />
forcing <strong>the</strong>m to lay over in Key West and again in Cuba.<br />
When <strong>the</strong> passengers finally arrived at <strong>the</strong>ir destination,<br />
<strong>the</strong>y were seasick, tired and almost immediately disappointed.<br />
Spindrift had to anchor <strong>of</strong>fshore due to <strong>the</strong><br />
coral reefs and shallow water that surround <strong>the</strong> island,<br />
requiring many trips ashore by tender to move people<br />
and supplies from <strong>the</strong> yacht to <strong>the</strong> beach.<br />
By <strong>the</strong> time everything was on shore, it was late and<br />
<strong>the</strong> “pioneers” were hungry. Their first meal ashore was<br />
bread and canned fruit, though it was reported that some<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> men speared lobsters to boil and eat later that<br />
evening. Since <strong>the</strong>re was no time to set up tents, <strong>the</strong><br />
“adventurers” camped under <strong>the</strong> stars on <strong>the</strong> beach, but<br />
<strong>the</strong> fierce mosquitoes and constant braying <strong>of</strong> wild donkeys<br />
made sleep on East Caicos that night impossible.<br />
The following day <strong>the</strong>y draped a canvas tarpaulin<br />
over <strong>the</strong> walls <strong>of</strong> an abandoned and windowless shell <strong>of</strong><br />
a building left by <strong>the</strong> sisal company, supporting it with<br />
rails taken from <strong>the</strong> old railroad. This was where <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
supplies would be stored. Inhabitants from neighboring<br />
islands, curious and looking for work, traveled to East<br />
Caicos. They were each paid 50 cents a day to clear an<br />
area <strong>of</strong> scrub, bush and sisal so <strong>the</strong> settlers could erect<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir tents.<br />
Reality dawns<br />
Two or three days after <strong>the</strong>ir arrival, <strong>the</strong> eager “pioneers”<br />
went forth to survey <strong>the</strong> island and locate <strong>the</strong> valuable<br />
resources promised <strong>the</strong>m. It was not long before <strong>the</strong>y<br />
realized that <strong>the</strong>re would be no beef to eat—hunted out<br />
years earlier, <strong>the</strong> cattle were gone. There were donkeys,<br />
but in smaller numbers than expected. It looked like fish<br />
and possibly donkey would be <strong>the</strong>ir only sources <strong>of</strong> protein<br />
and <strong>the</strong> only fresh vegetables were those <strong>the</strong>y could<br />
buy from <strong>the</strong> inhabitants <strong>of</strong> nearby islands. There were<br />
no bananas, no papayas or o<strong>the</strong>r edibles growing on <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
newfound home.<br />
Not only were <strong>the</strong> cattle gone, but also <strong>the</strong> guano<br />
<strong>the</strong>y intended to sell had been depleted years before.<br />
There were no hardwood forests. There did not seem to<br />
be any resources <strong>the</strong>y could sell to make money, and<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir money was already running short. Adding to <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
problems, <strong>the</strong> yacht Spindrift did not return with more<br />
people or supplies.<br />
A 1940 newspaper article suggests that contrary<br />
Grace and James Lake (shown on previous page) stand in front <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong>ir tent on East Caicos.<br />
to his claim that he personally surveyed East Caicos in<br />
1934, James Lake took his description <strong>of</strong> it from charts<br />
and hearsay from o<strong>the</strong>rs. It is an interesting coincidence<br />
that in 1936 a newspaper reported that a Capt. Arthur<br />
A. Lawrence <strong>of</strong> Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania said that he<br />
had spent several years on North Caicos, describing it<br />
as a “Paradise.” His description <strong>of</strong> North Caicos and <strong>the</strong><br />
resources <strong>the</strong>re, which was probably accurate, was very<br />
much like <strong>the</strong> description James Lake attributed to East<br />
Caicos when he promoted it to <strong>the</strong> group <strong>of</strong> California<br />
“pioneers.”<br />
Paradise abandoned<br />
Within days, sunburn and infected sand flea and mosquito<br />
bites were taking <strong>the</strong>ir toll on <strong>the</strong> group. The Irvine’s 17<br />
month-old baby was covered with infected mosquito bites<br />
and tempers were growing short. Some members <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
party were no longer speaking to each o<strong>the</strong>r. After just<br />
four weeks on <strong>the</strong> island, group leader Richard Irvine,<br />
his wife, <strong>the</strong>ir four children and <strong>18</strong> year-old bachelor<br />
Ned Read left for Miami. Ano<strong>the</strong>r couple, Mr. and Mrs. E.<br />
A. Lawrence, left at <strong>the</strong> same time, but took a different<br />
route arriving in Miami on April 12, 1940. Reportedly,<br />
Mr. Lawrence kissed <strong>the</strong> dock and danced a jig when he<br />
landed <strong>the</strong>re. The Irvine family and Ned Read arrived in<br />
Miami on April 15, 1940. Richard Irvine told reporters<br />
he might return to East Caicos, but his wife said, “You’re<br />
crazy if you come back, Caicos is a desert.” Ten members<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> group remained on East Caicos, including James<br />
and Grace Lake, who told <strong>the</strong> departing members <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
party that <strong>the</strong>y intended to “stay and tough it out.” Andres<br />
Lornsten, <strong>the</strong> retired Standard Oil Co. engineer, took over<br />
as group leader.<br />
INGRID POHL AND JANET POHL-SCHOLLENBERG<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 65
astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
Exactly what happened on East Caicos after nine<br />
members <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> group departed in April 1940 is<br />
unknown. However, it was reported that Boyce Phillips<br />
told <strong>the</strong> departing members that he would soon be heading<br />
to Panama to work for <strong>the</strong> government. Passenger<br />
lists show that Cletys Ackerman and Hjalmar and Greta<br />
Kvanvig left East Caicos in July, arriving in Miami on<br />
August 8, 1940 aboard <strong>the</strong> vessel Betty K from Nassau.<br />
Passenger lists recorded that Grace Lake arrived in Miami<br />
on February 14, 1942 and her husband, James Lake,<br />
arrived a year later on April 10, 1943. There is no information<br />
to explain why <strong>the</strong>y arrived separately or whe<strong>the</strong>r<br />
or not <strong>the</strong>y remained on East Caicos until <strong>the</strong>y returned<br />
to Miami. Andres Lornsten, his wife Isabella and <strong>the</strong>ir two<br />
adult children arrived in Key West in 1945. It is not known<br />
if <strong>the</strong>y spent five years on East Caicos or somewhere else<br />
before returning to <strong>the</strong> U.S.<br />
While we do not know when <strong>the</strong> last “pioneer” left<br />
East Caicos, it is certain that <strong>the</strong>y did not succeed in<br />
establishing a viable colony <strong>the</strong>re. There is reference to<br />
<strong>the</strong> repatriation <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> last members <strong>of</strong> this group, possibly<br />
<strong>the</strong> Lornsten family, during WWII partly at government<br />
expense—but exactly which government is unclear.<br />
None<strong>the</strong>less, within a few years <strong>the</strong> island was once again<br />
uninhabited—left to <strong>the</strong> donkeys and mosquitoes. a<br />
Epilogue<br />
Not long after <strong>the</strong> Utopians’ abortive attempt to start a<br />
new life on East Caicos, Grace Lake conveyed <strong>the</strong> Breezy<br />
Point land she owned to her daughter, Alice L. Christensen,<br />
a Bermudian by marriage. In May 1949, members <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Christensen family went to East Caicos to determine if it<br />
could become “ano<strong>the</strong>r Bermuda.” They were disappointed.<br />
In 1968, at <strong>the</strong> suggestion <strong>of</strong> a friend, retired British S.O.E.<br />
(Special Operations Executive) <strong>of</strong>ficer and journalist John<br />
Houseman moved to East Caicos with his wife and two<br />
children, with <strong>the</strong> intention <strong>of</strong> establishing a hotel. A few<br />
months after setting up camp, Houseman’s wife left him<br />
and <strong>the</strong> plan collapsed. In 1970, <strong>the</strong> Christensens sold <strong>the</strong><br />
property to <strong>the</strong> Solar Group <strong>of</strong> Bermuda. The Breezy Point<br />
property is now owned by <strong>the</strong> Arden Group <strong>of</strong> Philadelphia,<br />
and is currently listed for sale.<br />
Members <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> group <strong>of</strong> “Pioneers”<br />
Irvine, Richard C. – group leader, sales (age 43)<br />
Irvine, M. Louise – spouse (age 37)<br />
Irvine, Jane – daughter, student (age 17)<br />
Irvine, Helene D. – daughter (age 7)<br />
Irvine, Dawn – daughter (age 9)<br />
Irvine, King – baby son (age 17 months)<br />
Lake, James – insurance investigator (age 69)<br />
Lake, Grace – East Caicos land owner (age 60)<br />
Lornsten, Andreas – retired, Standard Oil Co. (age 59)<br />
Lornsten, Isabella – spouse (age 46)<br />
Lornsten, Olaf – son (age 22)<br />
Lornsten, Margaret L. – daughter (age 20)<br />
Kvanvig, Hjalmar – horticulturist (age 37)<br />
Kvanvig, Greta – spouse, housekeeper (age 32)<br />
Lawrence, Ernest – salesman (age 24)<br />
Lawrence, Cecilia – spouse, nurse (age 28)<br />
Ackerman, Cletys R. – bachelor, Disney carpenter<br />
(age 34)<br />
Phillips, Boyce – bachelor, engineer (age 32)<br />
Read, Edward (Ned) – bachelor, student (age <strong>18</strong>)<br />
Thanks to Ingrid Pohl and Janet Pohl-Schollenberg, Tom<br />
Ellis and Dr. Donald H. Keith, who helped me research<br />
this story.<br />
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astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
The author’s work on Middle Caicos to document <strong>the</strong> Loyalist-era plantations was inspired by Islander Ernest Forbes’s advice, “Just follow<br />
<strong>the</strong> chimneys.”<br />
Follow <strong>the</strong> Chimneys<br />
How I became an Islander.<br />
By Dr. Charlene Kozy<br />
Editor’s note: Dr. Charlene Kozy has been contributing articles to <strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> for nearly a<br />
decade. They range from a survey <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> various flags and emblems used by <strong>the</strong> country, to detailed<br />
histories <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> life and times <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>’ Loyalist plantation owners, to fond recollections <strong>of</strong><br />
her association with <strong>the</strong> women <strong>of</strong> Middle Caicos, and a tale <strong>of</strong> pirates and one <strong>of</strong> Caicos Cay’s original<br />
homeowners, Countess Helen Czernin.<br />
In <strong>the</strong> following memoir, Dr. Kozy reveals just how she became associated with <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />
<strong>Islands</strong> 40 years ago and how it became an important part <strong>of</strong> her career. It makes me honor and appreciate<br />
her contributions all <strong>the</strong> more. We look forward to more to come.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 67
astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
While teaching in a Nashville high school in <strong>the</strong> late<br />
1970s, I agreed to teach a new course. In so doing I suddenly<br />
became Tennessee’s first high school teacher <strong>of</strong><br />
anthropology, <strong>the</strong> study <strong>of</strong> human societies and cultures<br />
and <strong>the</strong>ir development. This led to participation in some<br />
homegrown archaeology, a specialty within anthropology.<br />
Centuries-old stone box graves pertaining to <strong>the</strong><br />
Native American Mississippian culture were discovered<br />
practically next door to <strong>the</strong> school during construction<br />
<strong>of</strong> a golf course. The find attracted <strong>the</strong> attention <strong>of</strong> Dr.<br />
William Bass from <strong>the</strong> University <strong>of</strong> Tennessee. Among<br />
many o<strong>the</strong>r things he taught my class how to determine<br />
<strong>the</strong> age and gender <strong>of</strong> a skeleton. Under his direction, my<br />
class reconstructed <strong>the</strong> stone box grave <strong>of</strong> a teenage boy<br />
just about <strong>the</strong> age <strong>of</strong> my students. Subsequently, it went<br />
to <strong>the</strong> State Museum.<br />
This experience ignited my desire to do something<br />
more challenging than just teaching. I combed through<br />
a pile <strong>of</strong> journals and advertisements for research volunteers<br />
and found a grant from Earthwatch, a non-pr<strong>of</strong>it<br />
international organization that provides human and financial<br />
support to scientific research projects. If accepted,<br />
<strong>the</strong> grant would fund me to go to <strong>the</strong> Caicos <strong>Islands</strong><br />
with a group from <strong>the</strong> University <strong>of</strong> Illinois. When I was<br />
accepted in 1977, I jumped at <strong>the</strong> opportunity without<br />
knowing exactly where I was going, what kind <strong>of</strong> work I<br />
would be doing, or whom I would be working for. I found<br />
myself spending six weeks with archaeologist Shaun<br />
Sullivan’s group studying <strong>the</strong> Lucayan Taino Indians and<br />
tediously unearthing <strong>the</strong>ir ancient artifacts. Dr. Sullivan<br />
was an excellent teacher on <strong>the</strong> ways <strong>of</strong> archaeology—but<br />
also an ex-Army Green Beret and hard taskmaster!<br />
We lived in <strong>the</strong> settlement <strong>of</strong> Bambarra on Middle<br />
Caicos and our meager “leisure time” was spent at<br />
Emmanuel Hall’s store. I listened wistfully with him and<br />
his wife Constance to a clear channel radio station from<br />
my hometown <strong>of</strong> Nashville, 1,400 miles away. I also<br />
learned to play dominoes on Saturday nights with Mr.<br />
Hall’s customers. Mrs. Constance was always <strong>the</strong>re finding<br />
things for <strong>the</strong> villagers, and being sure all were taken<br />
care <strong>of</strong>. I felt at home in <strong>the</strong> country store, in so many<br />
ways like my dad’s—<strong>the</strong> one I grew up in. I learned about<br />
<strong>the</strong> culture <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> people <strong>of</strong> Bambarra, and all <strong>the</strong> things<br />
we had in common.<br />
SHAUN SULLIVAN<br />
In 1977, Constance and Emmanuel Hall opened <strong>the</strong>ir home and shop in Bambarra, Middle Caicos to <strong>the</strong> members <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Earthwatch expedition.<br />
This experience gave <strong>the</strong> author a desire to learn more about <strong>the</strong> ruins <strong>of</strong> stone buildings, walls and chimneys she saw on <strong>the</strong> island.<br />
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Shaun kept his group busy. We walked to <strong>the</strong> dig<br />
site each morning and carried our finds back to our staging<br />
area each evening. Sometimes when <strong>the</strong> mosquitoes<br />
were heavy or light rain came, we worked in <strong>the</strong> shelter<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> cave at Conch Bar. As we rode in <strong>the</strong> bed <strong>of</strong> Carlin<br />
Forbes’s truck, I became fascinated by <strong>the</strong> overgrown<br />
ruins <strong>of</strong> stone buildings and walls we passed along <strong>the</strong><br />
way. They were like <strong>the</strong> walls and chimneys I was accustomed<br />
to seeing in Tennessee. The chimneys were large<br />
enough to stand in, reminding me <strong>of</strong> tales <strong>of</strong> early pioneers<br />
hiding within during Indian attacks. No one knew<br />
much about where <strong>the</strong> stone buildings came from except<br />
that <strong>the</strong>y were part <strong>of</strong> “history” and we were studying<br />
“pre-history.”<br />
When <strong>the</strong> Earthwatch expedition was over, I returned<br />
home and put my degrees in History to work, immersing<br />
myself in library research. I learned <strong>the</strong> ruins were<br />
<strong>the</strong> remains <strong>of</strong> plantations belonging to British subjects<br />
who were forced to leave <strong>the</strong>ir holdings in Georgia and<br />
Florida following <strong>the</strong> U.S. War <strong>of</strong> Independence. The<br />
British Government <strong>of</strong>fered <strong>the</strong>m large land grants in <strong>the</strong><br />
Bahamas and Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> as compensation<br />
Glen Freimuth and Shaun Sullivan were leaders <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> University <strong>of</strong><br />
Illinois groups investigating Lucayan Indian sites on Middle Caicos<br />
in 1977.<br />
for <strong>the</strong>ir losses in <strong>the</strong> newly created United States and in<br />
recognition <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir loyalty to <strong>the</strong> Crown. They became<br />
known as <strong>the</strong> American Loyalists.<br />
American historians wrote little about American<br />
Loyalists in textbooks. I could find an unflattering paragraph<br />
about <strong>the</strong>m here and <strong>the</strong>re that always included<br />
how <strong>the</strong>y were tarred and fea<strong>the</strong>red by “The Sons <strong>of</strong><br />
Liberty,” trying to make revolutionaries <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m. Knowing<br />
These are some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> participants in <strong>the</strong> 1977 excavation <strong>of</strong> Lucayan Indian sites on Middle Caicos. Emmanuel Hall and <strong>the</strong> author stand<br />
fourth and fifth from left.<br />
SHAUN SULLIVAN SHAUN SULLIVAN<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 69
astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
DONALD H. KEITH<br />
This kitchen on <strong>the</strong> Haulover Plantation on Middle Caicos was well<br />
preserved, with a large fireplace and hooks to hang pots on. It was<br />
separate from <strong>the</strong> main house to avoid fire hazards.<br />
that <strong>the</strong>re was little interest in this group, I took my<br />
findings and thoughts to my former history teachers at<br />
Middle Tennessee State University (MTSU). One kind pr<strong>of</strong>essor,<br />
Dr. Fred Rolater, encouraged me to consider it a<br />
worthwhile study for a doctorate. He continued to be a<br />
mountain <strong>of</strong> support through my arduous road to becoming<br />
Dr. Charlene Kozy.<br />
But my quest was just beginning. I was accepted<br />
as a doctoral student at MTSU. I married Steve Kozy, a<br />
very patient and understanding man, who traveled with<br />
me to Nassau to read micr<strong>of</strong>ilm in <strong>the</strong>ir archives and to<br />
<strong>the</strong> University <strong>of</strong> Florida looking for knowledge <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Loyalists. Then we found a company in Orlando, Florida<br />
that was micr<strong>of</strong>ilming Nassau’s records. I purchased copies<br />
to read under less stressful circumstances. These films<br />
were records <strong>of</strong> land grants to exiled individual Loyalists<br />
and even gave <strong>the</strong>ir locations in <strong>the</strong> Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. Soon,<br />
I was no longer satisfied just to read about <strong>the</strong> Loyalists.<br />
Now, armed with my research, I wanted to return to <strong>the</strong><br />
Turks & Caicos to see if I could find <strong>the</strong> places where <strong>the</strong><br />
people I had been studying actually lived!<br />
But where to start? While staying at <strong>the</strong> Island Princess,<br />
one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> three hotels on Providenciales in those days,<br />
Steve and I met Tommy Coleman. Upon hearing my story,<br />
he suggested a trip to Parrot Cay to meet a woman who<br />
lived on a restored Loyalist plantation. Excitedly, we<br />
accepted <strong>the</strong> invitation and met Countess Helen Czernin<br />
who graciously invited us to stay in modernized slave<br />
quarters converted to guesthouses. This friendship<br />
endured for many years. Helen moved to Grand Turk and<br />
introduced me to influential people such as Mrs. Gre<strong>the</strong><br />
Seim and government <strong>of</strong>ficials who encouraged me and<br />
gave permission to study <strong>the</strong> ruins on Middle Caicos and<br />
even bring in field school students.<br />
I was no stranger on Middle Caicos, especially to <strong>the</strong><br />
people <strong>of</strong> Bambarra. I needed <strong>the</strong>ir help, and <strong>the</strong>y gave<br />
it freely. Their acceptance <strong>of</strong> my husband and me was<br />
unusually good. At first, we stayed in <strong>the</strong> “Government<br />
House,” which also served as a clinic, but after a few visits<br />
we were invited to stay with Islanders in <strong>the</strong>ir homes.<br />
There were no hotels in Bambarra! Elizabeth and Ernest<br />
Forbes housed two <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> three field schools we organized.<br />
Hon. Robert Hall, an <strong>of</strong>ficer in <strong>the</strong> government and<br />
son <strong>of</strong> Constance and Emmanuel Hall, visited <strong>the</strong> projects<br />
and gave <strong>the</strong> students history lessons about <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
The next step was to locate <strong>the</strong> plantations. After I<br />
explained that my purpose for being <strong>the</strong>re was to locate<br />
<strong>the</strong> actual Loyalist plantations I had been studying,<br />
Constance Hall took me to <strong>the</strong> abandoned Ferguson plantation<br />
where she was born. A young teacher on <strong>the</strong> island,<br />
Valerie Hamilton, guided me to many o<strong>the</strong>r places.<br />
Mr. Alton Higgs guided us to <strong>the</strong> Haulover plantation<br />
near <strong>the</strong> settlement <strong>of</strong> Lorimers. I was immediately struck<br />
by <strong>the</strong> many similarities between Haulover and plantations<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> same period in <strong>the</strong> U.S. Built by Loyalist Dr.<br />
John Lorimer some time around <strong>18</strong>00, it had <strong>the</strong> spacious<br />
main house with obvious divisions <strong>of</strong> rooms including<br />
dining rooms, bedrooms and studies and was similar<br />
in many ways to <strong>the</strong> Hermitage, former U.S. President<br />
Andrew Jackson’s plantation near my home in Tennesse.<br />
Haulover’s separate kitchen was relatively well preserved,<br />
with a large fireplace and hooks to hang pots on. Having<br />
a separate kitchen from <strong>the</strong> main house was <strong>the</strong> common<br />
practice in America due to fire hazards. The builders <strong>of</strong><br />
Haulover followed suite. Haulover had slave cabins built<br />
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beside fields ready to be cultivated, as did <strong>the</strong> Hermitage.<br />
An overseer’s house was nearby at Haulover, ready to<br />
receive instructions from <strong>the</strong> master. There were o<strong>the</strong>r<br />
similarities as well. Both men had villages named for<br />
<strong>the</strong>m: Old Hickory in Tennessee (Jackson’s sometimes<br />
nickname), and Lorimers on Middle Caicos. Dr. Lorimer’s<br />
gravesite lies nearby, just as Andrew Jackson’s grave is<br />
on <strong>the</strong> grounds at <strong>the</strong> Hermitage.<br />
With <strong>the</strong> help <strong>of</strong> Ernest Forbes, maps <strong>of</strong> plantation<br />
locations and detailed land and household appraisals, we<br />
correlated documented data with topography, landmarks<br />
and geographical features and identified more plantations.<br />
Ernest’s knowledge <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> and succinct<br />
observation—“Just follow <strong>the</strong> chimneys”—were invaluable.<br />
Searches for <strong>the</strong> plantations, now long overgrown<br />
in cactus and tropical vegetation, boiled down to looking<br />
for <strong>the</strong> tops <strong>of</strong> stone chimneys looming above <strong>the</strong><br />
dense bush. Machetes were <strong>the</strong> tool <strong>of</strong> choice in clearing<br />
<strong>the</strong> way to <strong>the</strong> old ruins so we could survey, map<br />
and measure <strong>the</strong>m. Our guide, Mr. Ernest, assured us <strong>the</strong><br />
vegetation would grow back within a few months. “It will<br />
soon be like you found it today.”<br />
In retrospect, my quest to “rediscover” <strong>the</strong> Caicos<br />
<strong>Islands</strong> Loyalists led to much more than I originally<br />
expected. I satisfied my quest to correlate <strong>the</strong> micr<strong>of</strong>ilm<br />
descriptions with actual places and structures on Middle<br />
Caicos and completed my dissertation, “A History <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Georgia Loyalists and <strong>the</strong> Plantation Period in <strong>the</strong> Turks<br />
and Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>,” earning a doctorate degree that led<br />
to working at Cumberland University for 21 years, serving<br />
as president for <strong>the</strong> last three. For some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> students<br />
I brought down for <strong>the</strong> field schools it was <strong>the</strong>ir first trip<br />
outside <strong>the</strong> United States and <strong>the</strong>ir first experience living<br />
in a different socio-political environment. Such real-world<br />
learning experiences are not possible in a university setting.<br />
Just as important are <strong>the</strong> long-lasting friendships<br />
forged with archaeological colleagues working in <strong>the</strong><br />
TCI such as Drs. William Keegan, Shaun Sullivan, Glen<br />
Friemuth, Lisabeth Carlson and Donald Keith. I have<br />
mourned <strong>the</strong> loss <strong>of</strong> friends in <strong>the</strong> Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> over<br />
<strong>the</strong> years, but I cherish <strong>the</strong> memories <strong>of</strong> time spent with<br />
<strong>the</strong>m. I am eternally grateful to Dr. Fred Rolater for his<br />
support. To rephrase John Kennedy’s statement to <strong>the</strong><br />
German people, “Ich bin ein Berliner”—“I am a Turks &<br />
Caicos Islander.” As one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir own, I salute <strong>the</strong> people<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. a<br />
This portrait depicts <strong>the</strong> author, Dr. Charlene Kozy, who taught and<br />
was a dean at Cumberland University for 21 years, serving as president<br />
for <strong>the</strong> last three years before she retired.<br />
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MARIA SIMMONS<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 71
astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
Museum matters<br />
The turning point<br />
Hurricanes are nothing new, but this past season it was<br />
as if Mo<strong>the</strong>r Nature had painted a bull’s eye on <strong>the</strong><br />
Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>—with Grand Turk in <strong>the</strong> center!<br />
First, Irma, a Category 5 storm, struck <strong>the</strong> island on<br />
September 8 from <strong>the</strong> east, passing to <strong>the</strong> south with<br />
winds <strong>of</strong> <strong>18</strong>5 MPH, wrecking <strong>the</strong> power grid, destroying<br />
<strong>the</strong> reverse osmosis water system and taking out all<br />
communications with <strong>the</strong> exception <strong>of</strong> satellite phone.<br />
Grand Turk went dark. I was moved to tears as<br />
dozens <strong>of</strong> people—archaeologists, historians and<br />
o<strong>the</strong>r scientists who had worked in <strong>the</strong> TCI, U.S. servicemen<br />
who had been stationed <strong>the</strong>re, directors <strong>of</strong><br />
o<strong>the</strong>r Caribbean museums, and former ex-pat Museum<br />
employees—contacted me by telephone and e-mail,<br />
hoping for <strong>the</strong> best and asking what <strong>the</strong>y could do to<br />
help, sending checks and even volunteering to fly down<br />
to help with <strong>the</strong> clean-up!<br />
When news did start to trickle out it was not encouraging.<br />
The Museum’s two-story Science Building took<br />
<strong>the</strong> brunt <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> wind’s force, but in doing so sheltered<br />
Guinep House from <strong>the</strong> worst effects. Two weeks to<br />
<strong>the</strong> day later on September 22 , punching with winds<br />
over 170 MPH, Maria passed to <strong>the</strong> north, grazing <strong>the</strong><br />
island and delivering a backslap to <strong>the</strong> western shore,<br />
normally in <strong>the</strong> lee. Both buildings were damaged, but<br />
<strong>the</strong>re was nothing between <strong>the</strong> Guinep House and open<br />
sea except <strong>the</strong> tree for which it was named! The winds<br />
picked up <strong>the</strong> balcony ro<strong>of</strong> and grotesquely folded it<br />
back onto <strong>the</strong> main ro<strong>of</strong>, peeling back <strong>the</strong> eaves and<br />
exposing rafters in <strong>the</strong> process.<br />
It could have been a lot worse. The good news is<br />
that <strong>the</strong>re was no immediate damage to <strong>the</strong> collections<br />
or exhibits. The buildings kept <strong>the</strong>ir ro<strong>of</strong>s, but winddriven<br />
rainwater infiltrated, causing interior damage.<br />
Increasingly, we worried about <strong>the</strong> after-effects <strong>of</strong> this<br />
flooding as <strong>the</strong> weeks, <strong>the</strong>n months passed with frequent<br />
heavy rains and no electricity to run our climate<br />
control systems inside <strong>the</strong> buildings.<br />
Of course <strong>the</strong> Museum properties have always been<br />
heavily insured and structural repairs have already<br />
started, mingled with upgrades such as new security<br />
and fire-suppression systems and even our own 50 KW<br />
After <strong>the</strong> combined impact <strong>of</strong> Hurricanes Irma and Maria, <strong>the</strong> wall<br />
surrounding <strong>the</strong> Museum’s Botanical Garden collapsed.<br />
diesel generator. We are streng<strong>the</strong>ning our defenses<br />
against <strong>the</strong> vicissitudes <strong>of</strong> fate, but given <strong>the</strong> Museum’s<br />
location, <strong>the</strong>re is only so much we can do.<br />
Meanwhile, 70 miles away on Providenciales, after<br />
Irma <strong>the</strong> Museum’s Development Office and even <strong>the</strong><br />
thatch-ro<strong>of</strong>ed Caicos Heritage House suffered so little<br />
damage <strong>the</strong>re was no need to file an insurance claim—<br />
and Maria did no damage at all! Power, telephone and<br />
Internet were restored within a couple <strong>of</strong> days and<br />
Candianne Williams, <strong>the</strong> Museum’s representative on<br />
Provo, made sure <strong>the</strong> Village at Grace Bay campus was<br />
up and running by mid-October.<br />
Hurricane Ike hit <strong>the</strong> TCI on September 7, 2008. It<br />
took <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong>s <strong>of</strong>f 80% <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> buildings on Grand Turk.<br />
We thought it was a once-in-a-century storm, yet here<br />
we are only nine years later, recovering from two storms<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> same ferocity only two weeks apart. At present,<br />
all <strong>the</strong> Museum’s eggs are in one basket 64 feet from<br />
<strong>the</strong> North Atlantic Ocean. Mo<strong>the</strong>r Nature is telling us,<br />
“The climate is changing. Sea levels are rising. Storms<br />
are becoming more intense. It’s time to move!” Already,<br />
long-time Museum supporters have made donations<br />
earmarked for expansion <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Museum’s facilities on<br />
Providenciales in preparation for moving our most vulnerable<br />
collections <strong>the</strong>re. You can’t argue with Mo<strong>the</strong>r<br />
Nature. All you can do is heed her warnings, hope for<br />
<strong>the</strong> best, and prepare for <strong>the</strong> worst! a<br />
Dr. Donald H. Keith<br />
PAT SAXTON<br />
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Museum matters<br />
Who’s who<br />
In August <strong>2017</strong>, I received a phone call from Adrienne<br />
Antoinette Lightbourn Butz who just finished transcribing<br />
The Letter Book <strong>of</strong> Captain John Lightbourn Sr. and<br />
William Astwood. She found <strong>the</strong> original manuscript,<br />
more than 200 years old and quite fragile, in 2012<br />
among old papers passed on to her after <strong>the</strong> death <strong>of</strong><br />
her parents. It took Ms. Butz more than a year <strong>of</strong> tedious<br />
work to transcribe <strong>the</strong> hand-written manuscripts into a<br />
readable document.<br />
The letters are between John Lightbourn, a<br />
Bermudan in <strong>the</strong> salt trade in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />
<strong>Islands</strong>, and his nephew in Bermuda, William Astwood.<br />
Collections <strong>of</strong> original personal correspondence like<br />
this are very rare and invaluable to historians for what<br />
<strong>the</strong>y reveal about trade, commerce, family relationships<br />
and social mores <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> times. The Museum now has<br />
two copies <strong>of</strong> this limited-edition book in our library,<br />
but should you want one yourself, <strong>the</strong>y are available<br />
through Amazon at: https://www.amazon.com/<br />
Letter-Captain-Lightbourn-William-Astwood-ebook/dp/<br />
B0773WC5FT.<br />
The book reads like a “Who’s Who” among land<br />
owners and salt merchants <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks <strong>Islands</strong> with<br />
family names like Frith, Dickenson, Tucker, Dunscomb,<br />
Bascombe, Gibbs and Darrell appearing on virtually<br />
every page. The letters will aid <strong>the</strong> Museum in its<br />
ongoing research into familial connections between<br />
Bermuda and <strong>the</strong> Turks <strong>Islands</strong>. I want to thank Ms.<br />
Butz for donating <strong>the</strong>se books to <strong>the</strong> Museum, and<br />
admire her patience and determination in deciphering<br />
and transcribing <strong>the</strong>se hand-written letters written<br />
more than two centuries ago. a<br />
Pat Saxton<br />
From <strong>the</strong> Director<br />
The Turks & Caicos National Museum suffered a lot <strong>of</strong><br />
damage from Hurricanes Irma and Maria. It was not<br />
catastrophic, but it will take many months to get back<br />
to normal. We intend to re-evaluate <strong>the</strong> exhibits and<br />
improve <strong>the</strong> Museum and Science Building, making<br />
<strong>the</strong>m more user-friendly for visitors and Islanders alike.<br />
This is a book <strong>of</strong> transcribed letters between John Lightbourn and<br />
his nephew in Bermuda, written more than 200 years ago.<br />
So out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> storm comes new ideas. I personally<br />
have to thank a few people. These persons, like<br />
myself, were also dealing with <strong>the</strong> destruction <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
homes. Our Chairman Seamus Day was with me every<br />
step <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> way to save <strong>the</strong> archives and exhibits. He<br />
also secured <strong>the</strong> financing for <strong>the</strong> new generator. Lisa<br />
Talbot carried numerous books from our research<br />
library along with gift shop items to safety, and pushed<br />
buckets <strong>of</strong> water out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> workshop and dry lab. My<br />
husband Neil pulled up soaked carpet squares, carried<br />
out ruined furniture and kept me calm. Conrad Baron<br />
cleared <strong>the</strong> site not once, but twice, and <strong>the</strong>n put our<br />
garden back in order. As <strong>the</strong>y say, it takes a village—or<br />
just some very dedicated folks in that village who love<br />
<strong>the</strong> Museum. Thank you! a<br />
Pat Saxton<br />
PAT SAXTON<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 73
faces and places<br />
Junior Achievement <strong>2017</strong> Innovation Camp<br />
Just after Hurricane Irma, <strong>the</strong> Junior Achievement <strong>2017</strong> Innovation Camp took place simultaneously in Grand Turk<br />
and Providenciales. In Grand Turk, 59 students ga<strong>the</strong>red at <strong>the</strong> H.J. Robinson High School, breaking down into 12<br />
teams <strong>of</strong> 14- to <strong>18</strong> year- olds. Seventy-seven students from numerous high schools around Providenciales ga<strong>the</strong>red<br />
at The Shore Club breaking into 11 teams. For this year’s challenge, both groups were asked to find a way to prepare<br />
for and mitigate <strong>the</strong> effects <strong>of</strong> a hurricane through a full day <strong>of</strong> brainstorming and presentations. Judges were representatives<br />
from Scotiabank and <strong>the</strong> Department <strong>of</strong> Disaster Management, considering content, creativity, quality and<br />
team spirit. The winning Grand Turk team, Forecast 5, proposed a mobile app whose main purpose was to provide<br />
hurricane updates and preparedness tips, serving as a wea<strong>the</strong>r radar, friend tracker and First Aid assistant. The winning<br />
Providenciales team, 649 Aerial System, proposed a drone damage assessment tool. The system would also<br />
include an app that not only provided real-time damage assessment, but also hurricane updates and preparedness<br />
tips. Team Forecast 5 was comprised <strong>of</strong> Kendrea Gelcius, Llewandra Basden, Raynae Myers, Samantha Marcellus and<br />
Angelia Ariza. Both teams will face <strong>of</strong>f in January 20<strong>18</strong> with ano<strong>the</strong>r challenge. The winner will represent <strong>the</strong> Turks<br />
& Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> in <strong>the</strong> regional Innovation Camp Challenge hosted by JA Americas. Junior Achievement is an international<br />
non-pr<strong>of</strong>it organization focused on inspiring and motivating kids to be ambitious and goal oriented. The<br />
Junior Achievement Innovation Camp is regionally funded through a partnership with Scotiabank.<br />
Story By Claire Parrish ~ Photos By Angela Musgrove<br />
Team 649 Aerial System from Providenciales includes (at center, from left): Rasheed John, Rodisha Johnson, Anthonique Asamoah, Zaria<br />
Ingham, Ernelle Hall and Robria Clarke.<br />
74 www.timespub.tc
about <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong><br />
Map provided courtesy Wavey Line Publishing. Their navigation charts and decorative and historic maps <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, <strong>the</strong><br />
Bahamas, and Hispaniola are available in shops throughout <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. Visit www.waveylinepublishing.com.<br />
Where we are<br />
The Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> lie some 575 miles sou<strong>the</strong>ast<br />
<strong>of</strong> Miami — approximately 1 1/2 hours flying time — with<br />
<strong>the</strong> Bahamas about 30 miles to <strong>the</strong> northwest and <strong>the</strong><br />
Dominican Republic some 100 miles to <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>ast.<br />
The country consists <strong>of</strong> two island groups separated<br />
by <strong>the</strong> 22-mile wide Columbus Passage. To <strong>the</strong> west are<br />
<strong>the</strong> Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>: West Caicos, Providenciales, North<br />
Caicos, Middle Caicos, East Caicos, and South Caicos. To<br />
<strong>the</strong> east are <strong>the</strong> Turks <strong>Islands</strong>: Grand Turk and Salt Cay.<br />
The Turks & Caicos total 166 square miles <strong>of</strong> land<br />
area on eight islands and 40 small cays. The country’s<br />
population is approximately 32,000.<br />
Getting here<br />
There are international airports on Grand Turk, North<br />
Caicos, Providenciales, and South Caicos, with domestic<br />
airports on all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> islands except East Caicos.<br />
At this time, all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> major international carriers<br />
arrive and depart from Providenciales International<br />
Airport. American Airlines flies from Miami, Charlotte,<br />
Boston, Dallas, New York/JFK and Philadelphia. JetBlue<br />
Airways <strong>of</strong>fers service from Fort Lauderdale, New York/JFK<br />
and Boston. Southwest Airlines travels to Fort Lauderdale.<br />
Delta Airlines flies from Atlanta and New York/JFK. United<br />
Airlines flies from Newark, Washington, DC and Chicago.<br />
WestJet travels from Toronto. Air Canada <strong>of</strong>fer flights<br />
from Toronto and Montreal. British Airways travels from<br />
London/Gatwick via Antigua.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 75
Bahamasair flies to Nassau on Thursday and Sunday;<br />
InterCaribbean Airways travels daily except Thursday.<br />
InterCaribbean Airways and Caicos Express travel to Haiti<br />
daily, while InterCaribbean Airways flies to <strong>the</strong> Dominican<br />
Republic daily (except Wednesday); to Jamaica daily,<br />
and to Puerto Rico on Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and<br />
Sunday. InterCaribbean Airways also travels to Santiago,<br />
Cuba on Monday, Wednesday and Friday. (Schedules are<br />
current as <strong>of</strong> December <strong>2017</strong> and subject to change.)<br />
Inter-island service is provided by InterCaribbean<br />
Airways, Caicos Express Airways, and Global Airways. Sea<br />
and air freight services operate from Florida.<br />
Language<br />
English.<br />
Time zone<br />
Atlantic Standard Time (AST) observed year-round.<br />
Currency<br />
The United States dollar. The Treasury also issues a Turks<br />
& Caicos crown and quarter. Travellers cheques in U.S.<br />
dollars are widely accepted and o<strong>the</strong>r currency can be<br />
changed at local banks. American Express, VISA, and<br />
MasterCard are welcomed at many locations.<br />
Climate<br />
The average year-round temperature is 83ºF (28ºC). The<br />
hottest months are September and October, when <strong>the</strong><br />
temperature can reach 90 to 95ºF (33 to 35ºC). However,<br />
<strong>the</strong> consistent easterly trade winds temper <strong>the</strong> heat and<br />
keep life comfortable.<br />
Casual resort and leisure wear is accepted attire for<br />
daytime; light sweaters or jackets may be necessary on<br />
some breezy evenings. It’s wise to wear protective clothing<br />
and a sunhat and use waterpro<strong>of</strong> sunscreen when out<br />
in <strong>the</strong> tropical sun.<br />
Entry requirements<br />
Passport. A valid onward or return ticket is also required.<br />
Customs formalities<br />
Visitors may bring in duty free for <strong>the</strong>ir own use one carton<br />
<strong>of</strong> cigarettes or cigars, one bottle <strong>of</strong> liquor or wine,<br />
and some perfume. The importation <strong>of</strong> all firearms including<br />
those charged with compressed air without prior<br />
approval in writing from <strong>the</strong> Commissioner <strong>of</strong> Police is<br />
strictly forbidden. Spear guns, Hawaiian slings, controlled<br />
drugs, and pornography are also illegal.<br />
76 www.timespub.tc
Returning residents may bring in $400 worth <strong>of</strong><br />
merchandise per person duty free. A duty <strong>of</strong> 10% to<br />
60% is charged on most imported goods along with a<br />
7% customs processing fee and forms a major source <strong>of</strong><br />
government revenue.<br />
Transportation<br />
A valid driver’s license from home is suitable when renting<br />
vehicles. A government tax <strong>of</strong> 12% is levied on all<br />
rental contracts. (Insurance is extra.) Driving is on <strong>the</strong><br />
left-hand side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> road, with traffic flow controlled by<br />
round-abouts at major junctions. Please don’t drink and<br />
drive! Taxis are abundant throughout <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> and<br />
many resorts <strong>of</strong>fer shuttle service between popular visitor<br />
areas. Scooter, motorcycle, and bicycle rentals are<br />
also available.<br />
Telecommunications<br />
FLOW Ltd. provides land lines and superfast broadband<br />
Internet service. Mobile service is on a LTE 4G network,<br />
including pre and post-paid cellular phones. Most resorts<br />
and some stores and restaurants <strong>of</strong>fer wireless Internet<br />
connection. Digicel operates mobile networks, with<br />
a full suite <strong>of</strong> LTE 4G service. FLOW is <strong>the</strong> local carrier<br />
for CDMA roaming on US networks such as Verizon and<br />
Sprint. North American visitors with GSM cellular handsets<br />
and wireless accounts with AT&T or Cingular can<br />
arrange international roaming.<br />
Electricity<br />
120/240 volts, 60 Hz, suitable for all U.S. appliances.<br />
Departure tax<br />
US $20 for all persons two years and older, payable in<br />
cash or traveller’s cheques. It is typically built into <strong>the</strong><br />
cost <strong>of</strong> your ticket.<br />
Courier service<br />
Delivery service is provided by FedEx, with <strong>of</strong>fices on<br />
Providenciales and Grand Turk, and DHL. UPS service is<br />
limited to incoming delivery.<br />
Postal service<br />
The Post Office and Philatelic Bureau in Providenciales is<br />
located downtown in Butterfield Square. In Grand Turk,<br />
<strong>the</strong> Post Office is on Front Street, with <strong>the</strong> Philatelic<br />
Bureau on Church Folly. The <strong>Islands</strong> are known for <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
varied and colorful stamp issues.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 77
Media<br />
Multi-channel satellite television is received from <strong>the</strong> U.S.<br />
and Canada and transmitted via cable or over <strong>the</strong> air.<br />
Local station WIV-TV broadcasts on Channel 4 and Island<br />
EyeTV on Channel 5. People’s Television <strong>of</strong>fers 75 digitally<br />
transmitted television stations, along with local news<br />
and talk shows on Channel 8. There are also a number <strong>of</strong><br />
local radio stations, magazines, and newspapers.<br />
Medical services<br />
There are no endemic tropical diseases in TCI. There are<br />
large, modern hospitals on Grand Turk and Providenciales.<br />
Both hospitals <strong>of</strong>fer a full range <strong>of</strong> services including:<br />
24/7 emergency room, operating <strong>the</strong>aters, diagnostic<br />
imaging, maternity suites, dialysis suites, blood bank,<br />
physio<strong>the</strong>rapy, and dentistry.<br />
In addition, several general practitioners operate in<br />
<strong>the</strong> country, and <strong>the</strong>re is a recompression chamber, along<br />
with a number <strong>of</strong> private pharmacies.<br />
Barefoot Palms Ad:Layout 1 8/19/16 1:16 PM Page 1<br />
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Barefoot Palms<br />
3 bedroom, 2 bath villa<br />
Gorgeous pool, patio, tiki bar<br />
Blocks om <strong>the</strong> ocean, walk to beach,<br />
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shopping and restaurants<br />
$2450-$3850 weekly; flexible dates<br />
Immigration<br />
A resident’s permit is required to live in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. A<br />
work permit and business license are also required to<br />
work and/or establish a business. These are generally<br />
granted to those <strong>of</strong>fering skills, experience, and qualifications<br />
not widely available on <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. Priority is given<br />
to enterprises that will provide employment and training<br />
for T&C Islanders.<br />
Government/Legal system<br />
TCI is a British Crown colony. There is a Queen-appointed<br />
Governor, HE Dr. John Freeman. He presides over an executive<br />
council formed by <strong>the</strong> elected local government.<br />
Lady Sharlene Cartwright-Robinson is <strong>the</strong> country’s first<br />
woman premier, leading a majority People’s Democratic<br />
Movement (PDM) House <strong>of</strong> Assembly.<br />
The legal system is based upon English Common<br />
Law and administered by a resident Chief Justice, Chief<br />
Magistrate, and Deputy Magistrates. Judges <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Court<br />
<strong>of</strong> Appeal visit <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> twice a year and <strong>the</strong>re is a final<br />
Right <strong>of</strong> Appeal to Her Majesty’s Privy Council in London.<br />
Taxes<br />
There are currently no direct taxes on ei<strong>the</strong>r income<br />
or capital for individuals or companies. There are no<br />
exchange controls. Indirect taxation comprises customs<br />
duties and fees, stamp duty, taxes on accommodations,<br />
restaurants, vehicle rentals, o<strong>the</strong>r services and gasoline,<br />
as well as business license fees and departure taxes.<br />
78 www.timespub.tc
Economy<br />
Historically, TCI’s economy relied on <strong>the</strong> export <strong>of</strong><br />
salt. Currently, tourism, <strong>the</strong> <strong>of</strong>fshore finance industry,<br />
and fishing generate <strong>the</strong> most private sector income.<br />
The <strong>Islands</strong>’ main exports are lobster and conch, with<br />
<strong>the</strong> world’s first commercial conch farm operating on<br />
Providenciales. Practically all consumer goods and foodstuffs<br />
are imported.<br />
The Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> are recognised as an<br />
important <strong>of</strong>fshore financial centre, <strong>of</strong>fering services<br />
such as company formation, <strong>of</strong>fshore insurance, banking,<br />
trusts, limited partnerships, and limited life companies.<br />
The Financial Services Commission regulates <strong>the</strong> industry<br />
and spearheads <strong>the</strong> development <strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong>fshore legislation.<br />
People<br />
Citizens <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> are termed<br />
“Belongers” and are primarily descendants <strong>of</strong> African<br />
slaves who were brought to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> to work on <strong>the</strong><br />
salt ponds and cotton plantations. The country’s large<br />
expatriate population includes Canadians, Americans,<br />
Brits and Europeans, along with Haitians, Jamaicans,<br />
Dominicans, Bahamians, Indians, and Filipinos.<br />
Churches<br />
Churches are <strong>the</strong> center <strong>of</strong> community life and <strong>the</strong>re<br />
are many faiths represented in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>, including:<br />
Adventist, Anglican, Assembly <strong>of</strong> God, Baha’i,<br />
Baptist, Catholic, Church <strong>of</strong> God <strong>of</strong> Prophecy, Episcopal,<br />
Faith Tabernacle Church <strong>of</strong> God, Jehovah’s Witnesses,<br />
Methodist and Pentecostal. Visitors are always welcome.<br />
Pets<br />
Incoming pets must have an import permit, veterinary<br />
health certificate, vaccination certificate, and lab test<br />
results to be submitted at <strong>the</strong> port <strong>of</strong> entry to obtain<br />
clearance from <strong>the</strong> TCI Department <strong>of</strong> Agriculture, Animal<br />
Health Services.<br />
National symbols<br />
The National Bird is <strong>the</strong> Brown pelican (Pelecanus occidentalis).<br />
The National Plant is Island hea<strong>the</strong>r (Limonium<br />
bahamense) found nowhere else in <strong>the</strong> world. The<br />
National Tree is <strong>the</strong> Caribbean pine (Pinus caribaea var.<br />
bahamensis). The National Costume consists <strong>of</strong> white cotton<br />
dresses tied at <strong>the</strong> waist for women and simple shirts<br />
and loose pants for men, with straw hats. Colors representing<br />
<strong>the</strong> various islands are displayed on <strong>the</strong> sleeves<br />
and bases. The National Song is “This Land <strong>of</strong> Ours,” by<br />
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• • •<br />
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Tradewinds Radio<br />
on <strong>the</strong> dial at FM104.5<br />
104.5<br />
Enjoy.<br />
THE SOUND OF THE TROPICS<br />
Call 431 7527<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 79
㈀ 㠀<br />
吀 甀 爀 欀 猀 愀 渀 搀 䌀 愀 椀 挀 漀 猀 刀 攀 猀 攀 爀 瘀 愀 琀 椀 漀 渀 猀 椀 猀 礀 漀 甀 爀 洀 漀 猀 琀 甀 瀀 搀 愀 琀 攀 搀<br />
爀 攀 猀 漀 甀 爀 挀 攀 Ⰰ 愀 渀 搀 戀 攀 猀 琀 瀀 氀 愀 挀 攀 琀 漀 最 攀 琀 最 爀 攀 愀 琀 搀 攀 愀 氀 猀 愀 渀 搀 椀 猀 氀 愀 渀 搀 搀 椀 猀 挀 漀 甀 渀 琀 猀 ℀<br />
䄀 爀 攀 礀 漀 甀 愀 䰀 甀 砀 甀 爀 礀 吀 爀 愀 瘀 攀 氀 䄀 搀 瘀 椀 猀 漀 爀 㼀 䘀 椀 渀 搀 漀 甀 琀 洀 漀 爀 攀<br />
愀 戀 漀 甀 琀 漀 甀 爀 渀 攀 眀 猀 攀 爀 瘀 椀 挀 攀 ᰠ 䰀 甀 砀 甀 爀 礀 䔀 砀 瀀 攀 爀 椀 攀 渀 挀 攀 猀 ᴠ<br />
<strong>the</strong> late Rev. E.C. Howell, PhD. Peas and Hominy (Grits)<br />
with Dry Conch is revered as symbolic island fare.<br />
Going green<br />
TCI Waste Disposal Services currently <strong>of</strong>fers recycling services<br />
through weekly collection <strong>of</strong> recyclable aluminum,<br />
glass, and plastic. The TCI Environmental Club is spearheading<br />
a campaign to eliminate single-use plastic bags.<br />
Do your part by using a cloth bag whenever possible.<br />
Keep TCI “Beautiful by Nature” by not littering!<br />
Recreation<br />
Sporting activities are centered around <strong>the</strong> water. Visitors<br />
can choose from deep-sea, reef, or bonefishing, sailing,<br />
glass-bottom boat and semi-sub excursions, windsurfing,<br />
waterskiing, parasailing, sea kayaking, snorkelling,<br />
scuba diving, kiteboarding, stand up paddleboarding,<br />
and beachcombing. Pristine reefs, abundant marine life,<br />
and excellent visibility make TCI a world-class diving<br />
destination. Tennis and golf—<strong>the</strong>re is an eighteen hole<br />
championship course on Providenciales—are also popular.<br />
The <strong>Islands</strong> are an ecotourist’s paradise. Visitors can<br />
enjoy unspoilt wilderness and native flora and fauna in<br />
thirty-three national parks, nature reserves, sanctuaries,<br />
and areas <strong>of</strong> historical interest. The National Trust<br />
provides trail guides to several hiking trails, as well as<br />
guided tours <strong>of</strong> major historical sites. There is an excellent<br />
national museum on Grand Turk, with an auxillary<br />
branch on Providenciales. A scheduled ferry and a selection<br />
<strong>of</strong> tour operators make it easy to take day trips to <strong>the</strong><br />
outer islands.<br />
O<strong>the</strong>r land-based activities include bicycling, horseback<br />
riding, and football (soccer). Personal trainers are<br />
available to motivate you, working out <strong>of</strong> several fitness<br />
centres. You will also find a variety <strong>of</strong> spa and body treatment<br />
services.<br />
Nightlife includes local bands playing island music<br />
at bars and restaurants and some nightclubs. There is<br />
a casino on Providenciales, along with many electronic<br />
gaming parlours. Stargazing is extraordinary!<br />
Shoppers will find Caribbean paintings, T-shirts,<br />
sports and beachwear, and locally made handicrafts,<br />
including straw work and conch crafts. Duty free outlets<br />
sell liquor, jewellery, watches, perfume, lea<strong>the</strong>r goods,<br />
crystal, china, cameras, electronics, brand-name clothing<br />
and accessories, along with Cuban cigars. a<br />
80 www.timespub.tc
where to stay<br />
In <strong>the</strong> wake <strong>of</strong> Hurricanes Irma and Maria, especially on <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong><br />
beyond Providenciales, be sure to confirm that <strong>the</strong> property is open<br />
prior to making travel plans.<br />
Grand Turk<br />
range <strong>of</strong> daily rates<br />
US$ (subject to change)<br />
number <strong>of</strong> units<br />
major credit cards<br />
restaurant<br />
bar<br />
air conditioning<br />
phone in unit<br />
television in unit<br />
kitchen in unit<br />
laundry service<br />
pool<br />
on <strong>the</strong> beach<br />
H<br />
The Arches <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk – Tel 649 946 2941 190–210 4 • • • • • • •<br />
Bohio Dive Resort – Tel 649 946 2135 • Web www.bohioresort.com 170–230 16 • • • • • • • •<br />
Crabtree Apartments – Tel 978 270 1698 • Web www.GrandTurkVacationRental.com 210–250 3 • • • • • •<br />
Grand Turk Inn – Tel 649 946 2827 • Web www.grandturkinn.com 250–300 5 • • • • • • •<br />
Island House – Tel 649 946 1519/232 5514 • Web www.islandhouse.tc 110–<strong>18</strong>5 8 • • • • • • •<br />
Manta House – Tel 649 946 1111 • Web www.grandturk-mantahouse.com 110–130 5 • • • • • • •<br />
Osprey Beach Hotel – Tel 649 946 2666 • Web www.ospreybeachhotel.com 90–225 37 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Pelican House – Tel 649 246 6797 • Web www.pelicanhousegrandturk.com 110-130 3 • • • • •<br />
Salt Raker Inn – Tel 649 946 2260 • Web www.saltrakerinn.com 55–140 13 • • • • • • •<br />
Solomon Porches Guesthouse – Tel 649 946 2776/241 2937 • Fax 649 946 1984 75–100 3 • •<br />
Middle Caicos<br />
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Blue Horizon Resort – Tel 649 946 6141 • Web bhresort.com 265–400 7 • • • • • • • • •<br />
North Caicos<br />
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Bottle Creek Lodge – Tel 649 946 7080 • Web www.bottlecreeklodge.com 155–240 3 • •<br />
Caicos Beach Condominiums – Tel 649 241 4778/786 338 9264 • Web www.caicosbeachcondos.com 159–299 8 • • • • • • • •<br />
Cedar Palms Suites – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4<strong>18</strong>6 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 250–300 3 • • • • • • • • •<br />
Flamingo’s Nest – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4<strong>18</strong>6 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 175–340 2 • • • • • • • •<br />
Hollywood Beach Suites - Tel 800 551 2256/649 231 1020 • Web www.hollywoodbeachsuites.com 200–235 4 • • • • • •<br />
JoAnne’s Bed & Breakfast - Tel 649 946 7301 • Web www.turksandcaicos.tc/joannesbnb 80–120 4 • • • •<br />
Palmetto Villa – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4<strong>18</strong>6 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 225–250 1 • • • • • • • •<br />
Pelican Beach Hotel - Tel 649 946 7112/877 774 5486 • Web www.pelicanbeach.tc 125–165 14 • • • • • • • •<br />
Pine Cay<br />
H<br />
The Meridian Club - Tel 649 946 7758/866 286 7993 • Web www.meridianclub.com 800–1300 13 • • • • • • •<br />
Parrot Cay<br />
H<br />
COMO Parrot Cay Resort & Spa - Tel 649 946 7788/855 PARROTCAY • Web www.parrotcay.com 550–2850 65 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Providenciales<br />
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Airport Inn – Tel 649 941 3514 • Web www.airportinntci.com. 140 <strong>18</strong> • • • • • • •<br />
The Alexandra Resort & Spa – Tel 800 704 9424/649 946 5807 • Web www.alexandraresort.com 280–420 99 • • • • • • • • •<br />
The Atrium Resort – Tel 888 592 7885/649 333 0101 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>atriumresorttci.com 159–410 30 • • • • • • • •<br />
Amanyara – Tel 866 941 8133/649 941 8133 • Web www.aman.com 1000–2100 73 • • • • • • • •<br />
Aquamarine Beach Houses – Tel 649 231 4535/905 556 0278 • www.aquamarinebeachhouses.com 200–850 24 • • • • • • • •<br />
Beaches Resort Villages & Spa – Tel 888-BEACHES/649 946 8000 • Web www.beaches.com 325–390AI 758 • • • • • • • • •<br />
Beach House Turks & Caicos – Tel 649 946 5800 • Web www.beachchousetci.com 532–638 21 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
BE Beach Enclave – Tel 888 434 3981 • Web www.beachenclave.com see web 24 • • • • • • • •<br />
Blue Haven Resort & Marina – Tel 855 832 7667/649 946 9900 • Web www.bluehaventci.com 250–650 51 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Caribbean Paradise Inn – Tel 649 946 5020 • Web www.caribbeanparadiseinn.com 162–225 17 • • • • • • • •<br />
Club Med Turkoise – Tel 800 258 2633/649 946 5500 • Web www.clubmed.com 120–225 290 • • • • • • • • •<br />
Coral Gardens on Grace Bay – Tel 649 941 3713/800 532 8536 • Web www.coralgardens.com 199-449 32 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Gansevoort Turks + Caicos – Tel 888 844 5986/649 941 7555 • Web www.gansevoorttc.com 315–720 91 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Grace Bay Club - Tel 800 946 5757/649 946 5050 • Web www.gracebayclub.com 650–1750 75 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Grace Bay Suites – Tel 649 941 7447 • Web www.GraceBaySuites.com 99–195 24 • • • • • • • •<br />
Harbour Club Villas – Tel 649 941 5748/305 434 8568 • Web www.harbourclubvillas.com 210–240 6 • • • • •<br />
The Inn at Grace Bay – Tel 649 432 8633 • Web www.innatgracebay.com 179–379 48 • • • • • • •<br />
Kokomo Botanical Gardens - Tel 649 941 3121• Web www.aliveandwellresorts.com 169–299 16 • • • • •<br />
Le Vele - Tel 649 941 8800/888 272 4406 • Web www.leveleresort.com 303–630 22 • • • • • • • •<br />
La Vista Azul – Tel 649 946 8522/866 519 96<strong>18</strong> • Web www.lvaresort.com 215–375 78 • • • • • • •<br />
The Lodgings – Tel 649 941 8107/242 6722 • Web www.hotelturksandcaicos.com 175–255 15 • • • • • •<br />
Neptune Villas – Tel 649 331 4328 • Web www.neptunevillastci.com 150–400 10 • • • • • • • • •<br />
Northwest Point Resort • Tel 649 941 5133 • Web www.northwestpointresort.com 196–550 49 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Ocean Club Resorts - Tel 800 457 8787/649 946 5880 • Web www.oceanclubresorts.com <strong>18</strong>0–690 191 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
The Palms Turks & Caicos – Tel 649 946 8666/866 877 7256 • Web <strong>the</strong>palmstc.com 595–1700 72 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 81
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where to stay<br />
range <strong>of</strong> daily rates<br />
US$ (subject to change)<br />
number <strong>of</strong> units<br />
major credit cards<br />
restaurant<br />
bar<br />
air conditioning<br />
phone in unit<br />
television in unit<br />
kitchen in unit<br />
laundry service<br />
pool<br />
on <strong>the</strong> beach<br />
Providenciales (continued)<br />
Pelican Nest Villa – Tel 649 342 5731 • Web www.pelicannest.tc 429–857 2 • • • • • •<br />
Point Grace – Tel 649 946 5096/888 209 5582 • Web www.pointgrace.com 424–1515 27 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Ports <strong>of</strong> Call Resort – Tel 888 678 3483/649 946 8888 • Web www.ports<strong>of</strong>callresort.com 135–210 99 • • • • • • •<br />
Queen Angel Resort – Tel 649 941 8771 • Web www.queenangelresort.com 150–575 56 • • • • • • • • •<br />
Reef Residence at Grace Bay – Tel 800 532 8536 • Web www.reefresidence.com 275-385 24 • • • • • • •<br />
The Regent Grand – Tel 877 288 3206/649 941 7770 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>regentgrand.com 495–1100 50 • • • • • • • • •<br />
Royal West Indies Resort – Tel 800 332 4203/649 946 5004 • Web www.royalwestindies.com <strong>18</strong>0–695 92 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
The Sands at Grace Bay – Tel 877 777 2637/649 946 5199 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>sandsresort.com 175–675 116 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Seven Stars Resort & Spa – Tel 866 570 7777/649 333 7777 – Web www.sevenstarsgracebay.com 365–2400 165 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
The Shore Club – Tel 649 339 8000 – Web www.<strong>the</strong>shoreclubtc.com 465–4650 148 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Sibonné Beach Hotel – Tel 888 570 2861/649 946 5547 • Web www.sibonne.com 110–375 29 • • • • • • • •<br />
The Somerset on Grace Bay – Tel 649 339 5900/888 386 8770 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>somerset.com 350–1300 53 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Turtle Cove Inn – Tel 800 887 0477/649 946 4203 • Web www.turtlecoveinn.com 85–<strong>18</strong>0 30 • • • • • • • •<br />
The Tuscany – Tel 866 359 6466/649 941 4667 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>tuscanyresort.com 975–1300 30 • • • • • • • •<br />
The Venetian – Tel 877 277 4793/649 941 3512 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>venetiangracebay.com 695–1175 27 • • • • • • • •<br />
Villa del Mar – Tel 877 345 4890/649 941 5160 • Web www.yourvilladelmar.com 190–440 42 • • • • • • •<br />
Villa Mani – Tel 649 431 4444 • Web www.villamanitci.com See Web/AE 6 • • • • • • •<br />
Villa Renaissance - Tel 649 941 5300/877 285 8764 • Web www.villarenaissance.com 295–650 36 • • • • • • • • •<br />
The Villas at Blue Mountain – Tel 649 941 4255 • Web www.villasatbluemountain.com 1200–2500 3 • • • • • • • •<br />
West Bay Club – Tel 855 749 5750/649 946 8550 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>westbayclub.com 235–1163 46 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Windsong – Tel 649 333 7700/800 WINDSONG • Web www.windsongresort.com 275–925 50 • • • • • • • • •<br />
The Yacht Club – Tel 649 946 4656 • Web www.yachtclubtci.com 250–350 52 • • • • • • •<br />
Salt Cay<br />
Castaway – Salt Cay – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.castawayonsaltcay.com 175–265 4 • • • • •<br />
Genesis Beach House – Tel 561 502 0901 • Web www.Genesisbeachhouse.com 1000–1200W 4 • • • • •<br />
Pirate’s Hideaway B & B – Tel 800 289 5056/649 946 6909 • Web www.saltcay.tc 165–175 4 • • • • • • •<br />
Salt Cay Beach House – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.saltcaybeachhouse.blogspot.com 799W 1 • • • • • •<br />
Trade Winds Lodge – Tel 649 232 1009 • Web www.tradewinds.tc 925–1325W 5 • • • • •<br />
Twilight Zone Cottage – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.twilightzonecottage.blogspot.com 499W 1 • • • •<br />
The Villas <strong>of</strong> Salt Cay – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.villas<strong>of</strong>saltcay.com 150–475 5 • • • • • • • •<br />
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South Caicos<br />
East Bay Resort – Tel 844 260 8328/649 232 6444 • Web eastbayresort.com 198–1775 86 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Sailrock South Caicos – Tel 800 929 7197 • Web sailrockresortcom 600–800 6 • • • • • • • • •<br />
South Caicos Ocean & Beach Resort – Tel 877 774 5486/649 946 3219<br />
Web southcaicos.oceanandbeachresort.com 120–275 24 • • • • •<br />
Hotel & Tourism Association Member<br />
Green Globe Certified<br />
Rates (listed for doubles) do not include Government Accommodation Tax and Service Charge<br />
82 www.timespub.tc
dining out – providenciales<br />
Amanyara — Amanyara Resort. Tel: 941-8133. Light gourmet<br />
cuisine with menu changing daily. Open 6 to 10 PM.<br />
Angela’s Top O’ The Cove Deli — Suzie Turn, by NAPA.<br />
Tel: 946-4694. New York-style delicatessen. Eat-in, carry-out,<br />
catering. Open daily 7 AM to 5 PM; Sunday 7 AM to 2 PM.<br />
Asú on <strong>the</strong> Beach — Alexandra Resort. Tel: 941-8888. Casual<br />
Caribbean and popular international fare. Open daily for 7:30<br />
AM to 10:30 PM. Service indoors, poolside, and at beach.<br />
Baci Ristorante — Harbour Towne, Turtle Cove. Tel: 941-3044.<br />
Waterfront Italian dining. Brick oven pizza. Popular bar. Open<br />
for lunch Monday to Friday 12 to 2 PM and dinner nightly from<br />
6 to 10 PM. Closed Sunday.<br />
Bay Bistro — Sibonné Beach Hotel. Tel: 946-5396. Oceanfront<br />
dining featuring creative international cuisine. Open daily<br />
7 AM to 10 PM. Weekend brunch. Catering and special events.<br />
Beaches Resort & Spa — The Bight. Tel: 946-8000.<br />
All-inclusive resort. A variety <strong>of</strong> restaurants and bars on premises.<br />
Non-guests can purchase a pass.<br />
Bella Luna Ristorante — Glass House, Grace Bay Road. Tel:<br />
946-5214. Fine Italian dining. Indoor or terrace seating above<br />
tropical garden. Open daily from 5:30 PM. Closed Sunday. Lunch<br />
and pizza in <strong>the</strong> garden. Private catering available.<br />
Big Al’s Island Grill — Salt Mills Plaza. Tel: 941-3797. Wide<br />
selection <strong>of</strong> burgers, steaks, salads, and wraps in a diner-like<br />
setting. Open daily from 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />
Bugaloo’s Conch Crawl — Five Cays. Tel: 941-3863. Fresh<br />
local conch and seafood by <strong>the</strong> beach. Rum, buckets <strong>of</strong> beer,<br />
live local bands. Open daily from 11 AM to late.<br />
Cabana Beach Bar & Grill — Ocean Club. Tel: 946-5880.<br />
Casual island fare, burgers, salads, snacks. Open daily from<br />
7 AM to 10 PM. Tropical cocktails with a view <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sea.<br />
Caicos Bakery — Caicos Café Plaza. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic French boulangerie.<br />
Fresh-baked breads, rolls, croissants, muffins, quiche,<br />
pastries, cakes. Open 7 AM to 4:30 PM daily except Sunday.<br />
Caicos Café — Caicos Café Plaza. Tel: 946-5278.<br />
Mediterranean specialties, grilled local seafood. Fine wines, dining<br />
on <strong>the</strong> deck. Open 6 PM to 10 PM Monday to Saturday.<br />
The Caravel Restaurant — Grace Bay Court. Tel: 941-5330.<br />
Cozy restaurant <strong>of</strong>fering island food with flair; famous for fish<br />
tacos. Full bar. Open daily 5 to 10 PM, closed Thursday.<br />
Chicken Chicken — <strong>Times</strong> Square, downtown Provo. Fast food,<br />
fried chicken, native fare.<br />
Chinson’s Grill Shack — Leeward Highway. Tel: 941-3533.<br />
The <strong>Islands</strong>’ best jerk and barbecue, Jamaican pastries. Open<br />
daily 8 AM to 10 PM; Friday to Midnight.<br />
Chopsticks — Neptune Court. Tel: 333-4040. Fusion <strong>of</strong> Asian<br />
cuisines. Take-away, delivery, on-site dining. Open daily 11:30<br />
AM to 3 PM; 5:30 to 10:00 PM.<br />
Club Med — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5500. All-inclusive<br />
resort. Buffet-style dining; live show and disco in <strong>the</strong> evenings.<br />
Non-guests can purchase a daily pass.<br />
Coco Bistro — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5369. Continental<br />
Caribbean cuisine by Chef Stuart Gray under a canopy <strong>of</strong> palms.<br />
Serving dinner from 5:30 PM. Closed Monday. Look for <strong>the</strong> new<br />
Cocovan airstream lounge with garden seating or take-away.<br />
Coconut Grove Restaurant & Lounge — Olympic Plaza,<br />
Downtown. Tel: 247-5610. Casual native fare for residents and<br />
tourists. Cracked conch, conch fritters, fried fish. Pool and game<br />
room. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />
Coyaba Restaurant — Caribbean Paradise Inn. Tel: 946-5<strong>18</strong>6.<br />
Contemporary Caribbean gourmet cuisine in a private tropical<br />
garden setting. Extensive wine list. Dinner nightly from 6 to 10<br />
PM. Closed Tuesday. Reservations recommended.<br />
Crackpot Kitchen — Ports <strong>of</strong> Call. Tel: 2313336. Experience<br />
<strong>the</strong> best <strong>of</strong> au<strong>the</strong>ntic Turks & Caicos and Caribbean cuisines<br />
with local celebrity Chef Nik. Open daily 5 to 10 PM except<br />
Thursday; Happy Hour 5 to 7 PM.<br />
Crust Bakery & Café — Graceway IGA. Tel: 941-8724.<br />
Breakfast sandwiches, specialty c<strong>of</strong>fees, soups, salads, gourmet<br />
sandwiches and desserts. Open Monday to Saturday, 7 AM to<br />
8:30 PM. Covered patio dining or take-out. Catering available.<br />
Da Conch Shack & RumBar — Blue Hills. Tel: 946-8877.<br />
Island-fresh seafood from <strong>the</strong> ocean to your plate. Covered<br />
beachfront dining for lunch and dinner daily from 11 AM.<br />
Danny Buoy’s — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5921. Traditional<br />
American pub fare; imported draught beers. Open for lunch and<br />
dinner daily from 11 AM. Happy Hour specials. Large screen TVs<br />
for sporting events. Karaoke.<br />
The Deck — Seven Stars Resort. Tel: 941-7777. All day dining<br />
and cocktails by <strong>the</strong> water’s edge. Open daily 11 AM to 11 PM.<br />
Live music Friday nights.<br />
Drift — West Bay Club. Tel: 946-8550. Open-air beachfront dining.<br />
Creatively used local ingredients. Full bar. Open daily.<br />
Dune — Windsong Resort. Tel: 333-7700. Private beachfront<br />
dining with limited availability. Fresh fare prepared to perfection.<br />
Open daily.<br />
Element — LeVele Plaza. Tel: 348-6424. Contemporary, creative<br />
cuisine in an elegant setting. Open for dinner Friday to<br />
Wednesday 6:30 to 10:30 PM.<br />
Fairways Bar & Grill — Provo Golf Club. Tel: 946-5833. Dine<br />
overlooking <strong>the</strong> “greens.” Open for breakfast and lunch from 7<br />
AM to 4 PM daily; Friday, Saturday and Sunday open until 8 PM.<br />
Great Sunday brunch 9 AM to 3 PM.<br />
Fire & Ice — Blue Haven Resort & Marina. Tel: 946-9900.<br />
Drinks at <strong>the</strong> Ice Bar, dessert by <strong>the</strong> fire pits. South Americanmeets-Caribbean<br />
flavors and spices. Open daily 5:30 to 9:30<br />
PM. Closed Wednesday.<br />
Fresh Bakery & Bistro — Atrium Resort. Tel: 345-4745.<br />
Healthy European salads, soups, sandwiches, bakery, pies and<br />
cakes. Gelato. Open daily 7 AM to 6 PM, closed Sunday.<br />
Fresh Catch — Salt Mills Plaza. Tel: 243-3167. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic native<br />
cuisine, from seafood to souse. All-you-can-eat seafood buffet<br />
on Wednesday. Open daily 8 AM to 10 PM. Closed Sunday.<br />
Carry-out available.<br />
Garam Masala — Regent Village. Tel: 941-3292. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic<br />
Indian cuisine, tandoori charcoal-oven specialties. Open daily<br />
11:30 AM to 3 PM, 5:30 to 10 PM. Dine-in, take-out or delivery.<br />
Giggles Ice Cream & Candy Parlour — Ports <strong>of</strong> Call &<br />
Williams Storage. Tel: 941-7370. Cones, sundaes, shakes,<br />
smoothies, “Gigglers,” ice cream pies and cakes. Pick ‘n’ mix<br />
candies. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />
Gilley’s Sky Lounge & Bar — At <strong>the</strong> airport. Tel: 946-4472.<br />
Burgers, sandwiches, local food. Open daily 6 AM to 9 PM.<br />
Grace’s Cottage — Point Grace Resort. Tel: 946-5096.<br />
Elegant, gourmet Caribbean cuisine showcasing regional foods.<br />
Extensive wine list. Gazebo seating under <strong>the</strong> stars or indoor<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2017</strong>/<strong>18</strong> 83
dining in a romantic gingerbread cottage. Serving dinner from<br />
6 to 10 PM nightly. Reservations required. Native cuisine night<br />
on Tuesday with live music.<br />
Grill Rouge — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-5050. Al fresco bistro.<br />
Diverse menu. Fun cocktails. Open daily for lunch Noon to 3 PM,<br />
dinner to 9 PM.<br />
Hemingways on <strong>the</strong> Beach — The Sands at Grace Bay. Tel:<br />
941-8408. Casual beachfront bar and restaurant. Fresh fish,<br />
pasta, sandwiches, salads and tropical drinks by <strong>the</strong> pool.<br />
Oceanfront deck for great sunsets! Open 8 AM to 10 PM daily.<br />
Hole in <strong>the</strong> Wall Restaurant & Bar — Williams Plaza, Old<br />
Airport Road. Tel: 941-4136. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Jamaican/Island cuisine<br />
where <strong>the</strong> locals go. Full bar. A/C dining or outdoors on <strong>the</strong><br />
deck. Open daily 7 AM to 9 PM. Pick-up/delivery available.<br />
Infiniti Restaurant & Raw Bar — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-<br />
5050. Elegant beachfront dining for lunch and dinner. Gourmet<br />
Euro/Caribbean cuisine; fine wines. Full bar and lounge.<br />
Reservations required.<br />
Island Boochery — Le Petite Plaza. Tel: 348-7027. Vegan<br />
lifestyle kitchen, <strong>of</strong>fering fresh, organic, raw, vegan, gourmet.<br />
Open daily 10 AM to 6 PM; Saturday 10 AM to 2 PM.<br />
Island Conch Bar & Grill — Bight Cultural Market. Tel: 946-<br />
8389. Caribbean and local cuisine. Open daily 11 AM to 9 PM.<br />
Island Scoop — Grace Bay Plaza. Tel: 242-8511/243-5051.<br />
21 flavors <strong>of</strong> ice cream made locally. Cones, smoothies, blizzards<br />
and shakes. Open daily, 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />
The Java Bar — Graceway Gourmet. Tel: 941-5000. Gourmet<br />
café serving fresh baked desserts, sandwiches and c<strong>of</strong>fee<br />
delights. Open 7 AM to 8 PM daily.<br />
Jimmy’s Dive Bar — Ports <strong>of</strong> Call. Tel: 946-5282. The place for<br />
steaks, BBQ, booze and breakfast. Open daily, 7 AM to 11 PM,<br />
(Thursday to Saturday to Midnight); open Sunday at 8 AM.<br />
KItchen 2<strong>18</strong> — Beach House, Lower Bight Road. Tel: 946-5800.<br />
Caribbean cuisine with hints <strong>of</strong> French and Asian fusion and <strong>the</strong><br />
chef’s passion for fresh ingredients. Open 8 AM to 10 PM daily.<br />
The Landing Bar & Kitchen — Grace Bay Road across from<br />
Regent Village. Tel: 341-5856. Unique nautical setting for dinner<br />
under <strong>the</strong> stars. Cocktails, fire pit. Open daily except Tuesday<br />
5:30 PM to . . .<br />
Las Brisas — Neptune Villas, Chalk Sound. Tel: 946-5306.<br />
Mediterranean/Caribbean cuisine with tapas, wine and full bar.<br />
Terrace, gazebo and inside dining overlooking Chalk Sound.<br />
Open daily 8 AM to 10 PM. Take-out available; private parties.<br />
Le Bouchon du Village — Regent Village. Tel: 946-5234. A<br />
taste <strong>of</strong> Paris. Sidewalk café with sandwiches, salads, tartines,<br />
tapas, dinner specials, wine, cheese, dessert, c<strong>of</strong>fees. Open<br />
daily 11 AM. Closed Sunday.<br />
Le Comptoir Francais — Regent Village. Tel: 946-5234.<br />
French deli, bakery, wine shop. Open daily.<br />
Lemon 2 Go C<strong>of</strong>fee — Ventura House. Tel: 941-4069.<br />
Gourmet c<strong>of</strong>feehouse. Sandwiches, muffins, cookies, croissants,<br />
yogurt, salads. Open Monday to Saturday 7:30 AM to 7 PM,<br />
Sunday 9 AM to 1 PM.<br />
The Lounge — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-5050. Decidedly hip<br />
lounge. Caribbean-infused tapas, martinis, tropical cocktails,<br />
world music and <strong>the</strong> finest sunset location in Providenciales.<br />
Lupo — Regent Village. Tel: 431-5876. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Italian<br />
“comfort food.” Regional wine list. Dine in or take out readymade<br />
gourmet meals. Open daily 11 AM to 3 PM; 6 to 10 PM.<br />
Magnolia Restaurant & Wine Bar — Miramar Resort. Tel:<br />
941-5108. International cuisine with island flavors, north shore<br />
views. Open for dinner from 6 to 9:30 PM except Monday. Wine<br />
bar opens at 4 PM.<br />
Mango Reef — Turtle Cove. Tel: 946-8200. Fresh local flavors<br />
and seafood, homemade desserts. Open daily 8 AM to 10 PM.<br />
Set price dinner on weekdays. Waterside deck, indoor or patio<br />
dining. Tie-up to dock at Turtle Cove Marina.<br />
Market Café — Blue Haven Resort. Tel: 946-9900. Gourmet<br />
c<strong>of</strong>fees, teas, frozen drinks; fresh breads and pastries; grab ‘n’<br />
go salads, sandwiches, smoothies. Open daily 7 AM to 8 PM.<br />
Melt Ice Cream Parlour — Regent Village. Tel: 432-1234.<br />
Carefully crafted selection <strong>of</strong> sumptous and inspired sundaes,<br />
with c<strong>of</strong>fee, champagne and cocktails for <strong>the</strong> grown-ups! Open<br />
Monday to Saturday, 9 AM to 10 PM.<br />
Mis Amigos Cocina Mexicana — Central Square. Tel: 946-<br />
4229. A variety <strong>of</strong> traditional Mexican fare, including salads and<br />
<strong>the</strong> best margaritas in town. Open daily.<br />
Mo<strong>the</strong>r’s Pizza — Downtown <strong>Times</strong> Square. Tel: 941-4142.<br />
Best pizza in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos, available by <strong>the</strong> slice or <strong>the</strong><br />
island’s biggest “large.” Open daily 11 AM to 9 PM; to 10 PM on<br />
Friday and Saturday; Noon to 8 PM on Sunday.<br />
Mr. Groupers — Lower Bight and Sunset Ridge Hotel (near airport).<br />
Tel: 242-6780. Serving fresh local seafood straight from<br />
<strong>the</strong> sea. Open daily 10 AM to 10:30 PM, Sunday 3 to 11 PM.<br />
Opus Wine • Bar • Grill — Ocean Club Plaza. Tel: 946-<br />
5885. International menu with Caribbean flair. Fresh seafood.<br />
Serving dinner nightly 6 to 10:30 PM. Indoor/outdoor dining.<br />
Conference facility, events, catering.<br />
Parallel23 — The Palms. Tel: 946-8666. Pan-tropical cuisine in<br />
a setting <strong>of</strong> casual elegance. Boutique wine list. Al fresco or private<br />
dining room available. Open daily 6 to 10:30 PM.<br />
The Patty Place — Behind Shining Stars; Le Petit Place, Blue<br />
Hills. Tel: 246-9000. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Jamaican patties and loaves. <strong>18</strong><br />
flavors <strong>of</strong> Devon House ice cream. Open daily 9:30 AM to 10 PM.<br />
Pavilion — The Somerset. Tel: 339-5900. Chef Brad <strong>of</strong>fers a<br />
global palate, interpreted locally. Seafood raw bar. Open daily<br />
for breakfast, lunch, dinner; Sunday Prime Rib special.<br />
Pelican Bay Restaurant & Bar — Royal West Indies Resort.<br />
Tel: 941-2365/431-9101. Poolside restaurant and bar with<br />
Caribbean, French and Asian fare. Breakfast, lunch, dinner daily<br />
from 7:30 AM to 10 PM. Special events each week.<br />
Pepper Town Café — Digicel Cinema, #4. Tel: 246-9237.<br />
Native and Caribbean Dishes. Open daily except Sunday 11:30<br />
AM to 7 PM. Island breakfast on Saturday at 7 AM.<br />
Pizza Pizza — Grace Bay Plaza/Cinema Plaza. Tel: 941-<br />
8010/941-3577. New York style specialty pizzas. Open daily<br />
11:30 AM to 9:30 PM, weekends until 10 PM. Free delivery.<br />
Retreat Kitchen Vegetarian Café & Juice Bar — Ports <strong>of</strong><br />
Call. Tel: 432-2485. Fresh, organic, vegan fare. Fresh juices,<br />
daily lunch specials. Open for lunch Monday to Saturday.<br />
Rickie’s Flamingo Café — Between Ocean Club and Club Med.<br />
Tel: 244-3231. Local fare and atmosphere right on <strong>the</strong> beach.<br />
Best grouper sandwich and rum punch! Don’t miss Curry Fridays<br />
and Beach BBQ Saturdays.<br />
Sailing Paradise — Blue Hills. Tel: 344-1914. Casual beachfront<br />
restaurant and bar. Caribbean fare. Open daily 7 AM to 11<br />
PM. Sunday brunch and beach party, daily happy hour.<br />
Salt Bar & Grill — Blue Haven Resort & Marina. Tel: 946-9900.<br />
Casual dining with outdoor seating overlooking <strong>the</strong> marina.<br />
Sandwiches, burgers and salads, classic bar favorites with local<br />
flair. Open daily from 11:30 AM to 9:30 PM.<br />
Seven — Seven Stars Resort. Tel: 339-7777. Elevated contempo-<br />
84 www.timespub.tc
ary cuisine fused with TCI tradition. Open Monday to Saturday,<br />
5:30 to 9:30 PM.<br />
72ºWest — The Palms Resort. Tel: 946-8666. Beachside dining<br />
with a family-friendly, Caribbean-inspired menu. Serving lunch<br />
daily; dinner seasonally.<br />
Sharkbite Bar & Grill — Admiral’s Club at Turtle Cove. Tel:<br />
941-5090. Varied menu; casual dining. Sports bar/slots. Open<br />
daily from 11 AM to 2 AM.<br />
Shay Café — Le Vele Plaza. Tel: 331-6349. Offering organic<br />
c<strong>of</strong>fees, teas, sandwiches, salads, soup, pastries, gelato, sorbetto,<br />
smoothies, beer and wine. Open daily 7 AM to 7 PM.<br />
Simone’s Bar & Grill — La Vista Azul. Tel: 331-3031. Serving<br />
fresh seafood and local cuisine. Open daily 11 AM to 11 PM;<br />
weekends 7 AM to 11 PM. Popular bar!<br />
Solana! Restaurant — Ocean Club West. Tel: 946-5254.<br />
Oceanfront dining from sushi to burgers. Teppanyaki and Sushi<br />
Bar, engage with <strong>the</strong> chefs. Open daily 7:30 AM to 10 PM.<br />
Somewhere Café & Lounge — Coral Gardens Resort. Tel:<br />
941-8260. Casual dining with Tex-Mex flair right on <strong>the</strong> beach.<br />
Cocktails, beers, specialty drinks. Open early to late daily.<br />
Stelle — Gansevoort Turks + Caicos. Tel: 232-4444. Modern<br />
Mediterranean cuisine featuring fresh fish and seafood. Open 6<br />
to 10 PM daily, until 2 AM on Friday with DJ.<br />
Sui-Ren — The Shore Club. Tel: 339-8000. Inspired flavors <strong>of</strong><br />
Peruvian-Japanese fusion cuisine with fresh seafood and organic<br />
produce in a unique setting. Open daily.<br />
Thai Orchid — The Regent Village. Tel: 946-4491. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic<br />
Thai cuisine; over 60 choices! Dine in or carry out. Open for<br />
lunch and dinner daily.<br />
Three Bro<strong>the</strong>rs Restaurant — Town Center Mall, Downtown.<br />
Tel: 232-4736. Seafood and native cuisine. Tuesday night buffet<br />
dinner. Catering services. Open daily, 7 AM to 10 PM.<br />
Tiki Hut Island Eatery — Dockside at Turtle Cove Inn. Tel:<br />
941-5341. Imaginative sandwiches, salads, seafood, Black<br />
Angus beef, pasta, pizzas, fresh fish. Open daily 11 AM to 10<br />
PM. Breakfast on weekends.<br />
Turkberry Frozen Yogurt — The Saltmills. Tel: 431-2233.<br />
Frozen yogurt in a variety <strong>of</strong> flavors, with a large selection <strong>of</strong><br />
toppings. Open 11 AM to 11 PM daily.<br />
Turks Kebab — At Craft Market on Sand Castle Drive. Tel: 431-<br />
9964. Turkish and Mediterranean fare. Salads, falafel, gyros,<br />
kebabs, hummus. Open for lunch and dinner.<br />
Via Veneto — Ports <strong>of</strong> Call. Tel: 941-2372. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Italian<br />
dining in a stylish indoor/outdoor venue. Open from 5:30 PM to<br />
late. Closed Thursday. Saturday is Pizza Night!<br />
The Vix Bar & Grill — Regent Village. Tel: 941-4144. Highend,<br />
island-inspired world cuisine, fine wines. Open daily for<br />
breakfast, lunch and dinner. Available for meetings.<br />
Yoshi’s Sushi & Grill — The Saltmills. Tel: 941-3374/431-<br />
0012. Sushi bar menu plus Japanese cuisine. Open daily Noon<br />
to 3 PM; 6 to 10 PM. Closed Sunday. Dine indoors or out. Carry<br />
out available.<br />
Zest! — Gansevoort Turks + Caicos. Tel: 232-4444. Lunch and<br />
dinner beachfront. Taste <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caribbean and Americas. Open<br />
daily Noon to 5 PM; 6 to 9 PM. Fisherman’s night Wednesday. a<br />
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LIVE WATERFRONT<br />
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Venture House, Grace Bay | Resort Locations: Grace Bay Club, The Palms, The Shore Club, The Sands<br />
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