The Fit Guide

The Fit Guide
How to look good in any suit
AU $4.95

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A tailored fit
never goes out of style
There’s a secret to dressing well – and it has more to do with the way your
garments fit than the style of the clothes themselves.
More often than not, it’s the cut and fit of a suit
that makes you feel like a million bucks when you
get ready each morning. That’s because when
your clothes are comfortable and tailored to sit
perfectly, getting dressed becomes a pleasure,
not a chore.
So to help you get your wardrobe into shape,
we have put together The Fit Guide. Covering
pants, shirts and jackets, it’s your handbook on
how your clothes should fit. It’s not realistic for
every man to own a collection of bespoke suits,
but when you know what to look for, shopping
for clothes in store and then having them tailored
becomes simple. This way of building a wardrobe
is far more affordable and the results are just as
individual when you use a good tailor.
We believe that a quality suit is for the every
man. No matter how seriously you take yourself,
the pride you feel when you are well dressed
makes it easier to carry yourself through the day.
As you read this guide, you will come to realise
that just a few small tweaks to your garments can
make all the difference. Our tailors and stylists
have a wealth of experience that can’t be condensed
into a single guide, so if you have more
questions after reading this, you are more than
welcome to contact us for further information. You
will find our contact details at the end of this guide.
www.thefittingroomonedward.com

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A SLIM FITTING SHIRT
Shirts look best when they fit well
through the midsection and the sleeves
sit at a stylish length.
More information on page 16
A WELL BALANCED JACKET
Every jacket needs the correct shoulder
width and sleeve length, and a good fit
around the torso.
Learn more on page 6
COMFORTABLE TROUSERS
When it comes to trousers, you need
the right waist size, crotch length and
tapering of the legs.
Get the details on page 12
The Fitting Room on Edward

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The anatomy
of a perfectly
fitted suit
Design & layout: Hannah Byrne
Photography: Keegan Nicholls, Larry Lim
Jason Malouin — The Portrait Store
Words: Melinda Halloran and Clare Sheng
Produced by Pendant Publishing
www.pendantpublishing.com.au
©2018 The Fitting Room on Edward
All rights reserved. This publication or any portion thereof
may not be reproduced or used in any manner whatsoever
without the express written permission of the publisher.
www.thefittingroomonedward.com

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The Jacket
There are two reasons why the fit of a jacket is so important.
Firstly, it is the hero of any suit, so you want to
get it right. Secondly, there’s nothing worse than
feeling uncomfortable in an ill-fitting jacket. With
men having such varied upper body shapes, it
is rare to find a jacket that fits you perfectly.
Sagging, bunching and rippling of the fabric are
all signs that the garment needs work done. The
good news is that alterations are simple to make,
but do try to avoid jackets that are too short, too
small or too narrow around the shoulders, as
letting them out is far more complex than taking
them in.
Smooth across
the shoulders
Fitted
through the
chest
Sleeves end
just below the
wrist
The Fitting Room on Edward

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The Jacket: Torso
Structurally, the jacket’s torso is one of the most complex parts of a suit.
That means that if this part of the jacket doesn’t
fit snugly, there are plenty of ways it can be
altered. When a jacket is too big and doesn’t
sit neatly against your body, it can be tapered
through the back and side seams.
Signs that a jacket is too small are fabric
wrinkling at the button closure and a flared
hem. Depending on how it is made, it is not
always possible to let out a jacket, so try to avoid
purchasing smaller garments.
Length is also important: too short makes the
jacket look small, too long makes it look big (and
also makes you look shorter). When your arms
hang in a relaxed position, the bottom of the
jacket should align with the part of your hands
where your palm meets your fingers.
INCORRECT FIT
• No shape in the torso
• Buttons sit too low
• Loose across the shoulders
CORRECT FIT
• Tapered around the waist
• Sits at the correct length
• Top button sits at smallest part of the waist
www.thefittingroomonedward.com

The Jacket: Shoulders
Jacket shoulders are important to get right, as they do have a significant
impact on the overall style of a suit.
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In the nineties, for example, wide shoulders
were wildly popular, but now slim-fitting suits
are back and this fit is far more flattering. If you
happen to have a suit that is older but still in good
condition, altering the shoulders is a simple way
to modernise it.
In terms of fit, the shoulder seam should rest
where your arm meets your shoulder. If the
shoulder pads hang past your shoulder line or
dimples form at the top of the sleeve, this part
of the jacket is too wide and needs to be taken
in. When ripples form in the fabric around the
shoulder seam at the top of the arm, the shoulders
are too narrow and the fabric is being stretched
as a result.
CORRECT FIT
• Smooth across the shoulders
• No fabric ripples below the collar
• Fits comfortably across the back
The Fitting Room on Edward

The Jacket: Shoulder slope
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Men either have square or sloped shoulders, and this affects the way a jacket
sits on them.
If you have square shoulders, you need to watch
out for a bubble forming in the fabric underneath
the collar on the back of your jacket (this is called
a neck roll). Most suits are cut on a generic block
with a slightly sloped shoulder shape, making this
a typical issue for men with square shoulders.
That doesn’t mean you have to live with a neck
roll, as they are an easy alteration for a tailor
to make.
Men with sloped shoulders will often find that
the shoulder area of a jacket feels loose. As a
result, vertical ripples will form in the back near
the shoulder blades. This can be fixed by adding
some shoulder padding to balance out the jacket
and ensure it sits correctly.
INCORRECT FIT - TOO TIGHT
• Shoulders are too square
• Neck roll bunching above the shoulder blades
• Tight across the torso and sleeves
INCORRECT FIT - TOO LOOSE
• Sleeves are too wide
• Fabric dimples at the top of the sleeves
• Shoulder seam hangs past the top of the arm
www.thefittingroomonedward.com

The Jacket: Sleeves
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Correct sleeve length shows that you pay attention to your attire and is one of
the easiest adjustments to make.
If your jacket sleeves are too short, the jacket
will look as though you’ve outgrown it. If they are
too long, the cuff of your shirt won’t be visible and
your suit will look unpolished.
When adjusting jacket sleeves, you have two
options depending on your style: professional or
fashion length. Professional is a more traditional
look with the sleeve ending around the wrist
bone, showing around half an inch of the shirt
cuff. Fashion is slightly shorter, showing up to an
inch of the shirt cuff.
The width of a jacket’s sleeve should sit
comfortably around the arm and shirt cuff. If
you wear French-cuffed shirts, bring the shirt to
your fitting so the tailor can make adjustments
accordingly.
INCORRECT FIT
• Cuffs are too wide
• Loose around the arms
• Sleeves hang past the thumb joint
CORRECT FIT
• Shirt cuff is visible
• Sleeves sit just below the wrist
• Tapering towards the cuffs
The Fitting Room on Edward

The golden rule of jacket buttoning
Always have your top jacket button done up when standing and undone while sitting. Buttoning
your jacket whilst standing creates a cleaner silhouette, while unbuttoning it when you sit is more
comfortable and prevents wrinkles forming. The bottom button on a two-button jacket should never
be fastened.
www.thefittingroomonedward.com

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The Trousers
A good pair of trousers is a staple item in any wardrobe and the right fit will
flatter your natural body shape.
Well-fitted trousers fall flat without any pooling
or pulling of the fabric. The pockets should sit
neatly without flaring and the rear of the trousers
should follow the curve of the body without any
wrinkles forming.
When looking for trousers, it’s most important
to find a pair that fits correctly around the seat,
as this is the most complex part to alter. Tapering
the legs, shortening the length and bringing in the
waist are the simpler adjustments to make and
should be a secondary concern to the seat.
Fits well in the
waist band
Crotch length
is appropriate
Tapered in
the legs for a
slim look
The Fitting Room on Edward

The Trousers: Length
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The ideal length for a pair of trousers depends on the style you prefer to wear.
For the most flattering look, wear wide trousers
at full length and narrow trousers just resting on
the shoe. Changing the length of the trousers is a
very simple and fast adjustment. For this reason,
it’s not uncommon to find dress pants that are
sold unhemmed.
Classically cut trousers are wide and straight,
and they look best when finished at the heel with
a full break (this is the dimple that forms where
your trousers sit on top of your shoes).
Modern trousers are more narrow and tapered
at the hem. They should be slightly shorter than
classically cut trousers, with only a small break
at the front. Very slim trousers are best worn just
above the shoe, so that a break doesn’t form.
INCORRECT FIT
• Trousers are too long
• Excess bunching above the shoe
• No tapering at the ankle
CORRECT FIT
• Neatly tapered
• Sits at the rim of the shoe
• A half break forms at the front
www.thefittingroomonedward.com

The Trousers: Width
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Like the length of your trousers, the width you choose will depend upon
whether you prefer the classic wide-leg look or a modern tapered style.
A tapered leg suits most men, as it elongates
the body and has a slimming effect (an important
consideration if you are short and want to look
taller). For comfort and a clean silhouette, taper
the trouser legs from the knee down. The amount
of tapering you choose should be in proportion
with your body shape, so that your pants are as
flattering as possible.
Traditional pleat-front trousers are making a
come back, giving style-conscious men more options
when looking for pants to complement their
body shape. This cut is more comfortable for men
with a large backside or muscular legs, and can
still be tapered at the hem for a modern finish.
INCORRECT FIT
• Seat is too long
• Loose around the legs
• Hem bunches at the shoes
CORRECT FIT
• Tapered through the legs
• Seat is the appropriate width
• Half break forms above the shoes
The Fitting Room on Edward

The Trousers: Waist and seat
The waist and seat of trousers should be considered together.
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The seat is the centre back seam that runs
down to the crotch from the waistband. It is far
more complex to alter the crotch than the waist
so try to find pants that sit comfortably here.
Finding well-fitted trousers can be a problem for
men with larger backsides, as most men’s trousers
are cut with smaller seats. If this is the case
for you, opt for a larger size that follows the shape
of your body and have a tailor take the waist in.
When the seat is too small, the trouser pockets
will flare and if it’s too large, the fabric will sag under
the crotch.
The waist should sit just under the belly button
and have enough room to fit two fingers under
the waistband. This will ensure you can sit comfortably
in your trousers.
INCORRECT FIT
• Seat is too long
• Loose around the waist
• Bunching around the belt
CORRECT FIT
• Seat is the right length
• Waistband sits flat against the body
• Neatly follows the curve of the body
www.thefittingroomonedward.com

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The Shirt
There is a fine line between a well-fitted shirt and one that is too big.
Unfortunately many gents end up crossing that
line in order to find a shirt that fits comfortably.
If you can relate, you are not alone – most men
struggle to find shirts that fit them correctly.
To ensure your shirt is functional as well as fitted,
pay attention to the sleeves and the torso.
The right tailoring in these areas will mean that
your shirt sits well and provides you with enough
room to move. An important note on dress shirts:
as they are cut longer, they should always be
worn tucked in.
Smooth across
the shoulders
Fitted
through the
chest
Sleeves end
just below the
wrist
The Fitting Room on Edward

The Shirt: Sleeves
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Shirt sleeves are often overlooked, but they are an important part of looking
properly put together.
In terms of length, the shirt cuff should just cover
the wrist. Any longer or shorter and your shirt
will appear ill fitting. While it’s tempting to make
your sleeves shorter to show off a nice watch, a
far more sophisticated way to dress is to have a
slightly looser shirt cuff that your watch will comfortably
sit underneath. Once your shirt sleeves
have been shortened, it’s generally not possible
to lengthen them again.
For a tailored fit, taper your sleeves gradually
down the arm. Tapering sleeves to the correct
width prevents bunching around the shoulder,
elbow and cuff. To check the fit of your sleeves,
pinch the fabric – it should be no more than three
centimetres wider than the arm.
INCORRECT FIT
• Loose around the cuff
• Sleeves are ballooning
• Sits too close to the knuckles
CORRECT FIT
• Sleeves are tapered
• Cuff is neatly fitted
• Sits just beneath the wrist joint
www.thefittingroomonedward.com

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The Shirt: Torso
Finding the right fit on the torso is a familiar struggle for many men, especially
those who have wider shoulders, as they need shirts with larger torsos for
mobility.
If this is the case for you, use the military tuck
technique to taper the waist and prevent any
ballooning.
For men with wide shoulders or large midsections,
a shirt with a box pleat at the back will
give you the best fit. Men with slimmer figures
should avoid box pleats, as the shirt will balloon
too much. Shirts with darts generally offer a better
fit and these can be added in the alterations
process.
Three centimetres of fabric on each side of the
body is the ideal fit, though shirts can be tapered
more depending on the look you are going for.
Any excess fabric around the torso can be taken
in using the side seams. If you notice buttons gaping
at the front of the shirt, it is too tight.
INCORRECT FIT
• Ballooning at the sides
• Loose around the back and waist
• Excess overhang at the trousers
CORRECT FIT
• Fitted at the back with darts
• Sits neatly at the trousers
• Buttons are flush against the body
The Fitting Room on Edward

"Clothes don't make a man,
but clothes have got many a man a good job."
— Herbert Harold Vreeland

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A note from Clare, director
A good tailor is every well-dressed man’s best-kept secret.
As Hugh Jackman said: “There’s a tailor I go to
in Naples who’s fantastic. But if I told anyone his
name, I’d have to kill them.” Here in Brisbane, we
have been altering menswear for more than 30
years and I’ve had the pleasure of running The
Fitting Room on Edward for the last six years. In
this time, men’s style has had a resurgence and
we are now seeing more men taking an interest
in the way they present themselves to the world.
By specialising in menswear alterations, our
modern-day tailors know the anatomy of a suit
inside out. As well as paying attention to every
detail of your garment, we also offer honest advice
on how to dress for your body type and personal
style. That means there’s no need to cross
the Wolverine to find a good tailor – you can simply
come to us. We’re in the CBD and passionate
about keeping Brisbane men looking their best.
The Fitting Room on Edward

The Fit Test
A helpful checklist to see if your suit is
actually the right fit for you.
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THE SHIRT
□□Shoulder seams sit at the outer
edge of your shoulder.
□□The body of the shirt is fitted with
3cm allowance on each side.
□□There is no ballooning or excess
fabric at the back.
□□The buttons are not pulling open
at the chest.
Sleeves end just below the wrist.
□□Sleeves do not bunch around the
forearm and overhang the cuff.
THE JACKET
□□Shoulder seams align with the
widest part of your arms.
□□There is no dimple, overhanging,
or pulling at the shoulders.
□□The torso is well fitted through
the waist, both at the front and
back panels.
□□There is no roll under the collar
at the back of the neck.
□□You can comfortably do up the
top button of the jacket.
□□Sleeves end below the wrist, with
1cm of shirt showing.
□□Jacket ends at the bottom of the
trouser zipper.
□□Sleeves are tapered towards the
wrist, and sits on the shirt cuffs
comfortably.
If you leave more than 2 boxes unticked in
any of the sections, then the garment is not
well-fitting. Email us to make an appointment
with our fitter, to find out how we can make
your suit fit like it’s custom made.
THE TROUSERS
□□Waist band sits flat against the
body, without being too tight.
Pants stay up even without a belt.
□□The crutch is comfortably
hugging the bottom, not hanging
too low or riding up the bum.
□□Legs are tapered towards the
hem.
□□There is enough room in the
thighs and calves for easy
movement and sitting.
□□Trousers hem finishes about
2-3cms from the floor without
shoes.
□□Half break forms above the shoe.
info@thefittingroomonedward.com
www.thefittingroomonedward.com

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Organising your fitting
Our tailors work their magic from our studio on Edward Street in Brisbane’s CBD.
Drop-ins are welcome and we also take appointment bookings.
SHOP 38, ANZAC SQUARE ARCADE
267 Edward Street, Brisbane
(Street entry from Edward Street)
07 3221 1265
www.thefittingroomonedward.com
Monday to Friday: 8am to 5pm
Saturday: 9.30am to 4pm
Call or email to make an appointment for suit
restyle and resize.
Facebook: thefittingroomonedward
Instagram: @thefittingroom_onedward
$10 gift voucher *
Simply visit our store and present this ticket
*On suit alteratoins only. Not to be used with any other offers
The Fitting Room on Edward

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www.thefittingroomonedward.com