Pittwater Life June 2017 Issue
Cafe Society. Exclusive Q&A: Michael Regan. Dummies Guide To The B-Line. Cash Splash.
Cafe Society. Exclusive Q&A: Michael Regan. Dummies Guide To The B-Line. Cash Splash.
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Surfing <strong>Life</strong><br />
Surfing <strong>Life</strong><br />
Knee deep: Brother Tom<br />
faces up to ‘Robo’ reality<br />
Surgery reminds us we’re all human, surf star or not, writes Nick...<br />
One Thursday morning<br />
a month or so<br />
ago, I walked into<br />
a rather expensive North<br />
Sydney private hospital<br />
ward, looked at my younger<br />
brother stretched out fast<br />
asleep with a large strip<br />
bandage running down the<br />
centre of his right knee, and<br />
realised: It’s finally, actually<br />
happened.<br />
The morning before, a<br />
surgical team had pushed<br />
an epidural needle into<br />
little Tommy Carroll’s spine,<br />
drenched him in general<br />
anaesthetic, cut off the base<br />
of his right femur and the<br />
summit of his right tibia,<br />
and with the help of laser<br />
guidance and GPS, fitted a<br />
titanium/cobalt joint in their<br />
place.<br />
The surgery is a<br />
punctuation mark. It ends<br />
40-some years of Tom’s<br />
struggle with this knee<br />
– a struggle that began<br />
with a teenage wipeout at<br />
‘Pissing Point’, Umina, and<br />
continued through a full<br />
knee reconstruction and<br />
ACL replacement, several<br />
arthroscopy clean-out<br />
procedures, and endless<br />
weights and Yoga sessions,<br />
as he tried to keep the unruly<br />
joint in line long enough to<br />
win all those Pipe Masters<br />
and world titles, etc.<br />
It’s also a reminder:<br />
surfing might make us feel<br />
like we’re gonna live forever,<br />
but it’s as likely to wreck us<br />
as anything else.<br />
Elite-level surf injuries<br />
have changed a lot since the<br />
early 1980s, when Tom was<br />
first battling back from the<br />
reconstruction. You can trace<br />
the changes directly to the<br />
changing styles of surfing<br />
through the period. Back<br />
then, a study done by the<br />
late Brian Lowdon of Deakin<br />
University showed the most<br />
PHOTO: WSL / Ryan Heywood<br />
Flat-out stoked: Tom’s surgery ends the 40-year battle with his<br />
right knee that spanned the length of his pro career.<br />
common injury was a knee<br />
– more particularly a medial<br />
collateral ligament strain,<br />
which made sense because<br />
at the time, surfing was<br />
all about straining. These<br />
were the days of flat decked<br />
surfboards, on which you<br />
squatted down low, pushed,<br />
shoved, and power-battled<br />
your way across the wave. In<br />
an awkward situation, your<br />
back foot would either slip<br />
off the tail, or your entire<br />
leg would be compressed<br />
sideways along the board’s<br />
length, flexing the knee<br />
in ways it was never built<br />
to be flexed. The old Ace<br />
knee bandage was never so<br />
popular.<br />
By the early 2000s,<br />
when the Association of<br />
Surfing Professionals’ then<br />
chiropractor Dean Innis<br />
undertook a similar study,<br />
he found the focus of injury<br />
had shifted away from the<br />
knee and toward the ankle<br />
joint and lower back. Curvier<br />
surfboards, faster-twitch<br />
styles, late-takeoff tube<br />
riding and air moves<br />
were changing the<br />
injury game as<br />
much as they were<br />
changing the judging<br />
criteria.<br />
Today, the injuries<br />
are more extreme.<br />
Not so much at<br />
world pro tour level<br />
(where the ankle’s<br />
still the big one) as<br />
in the increasingly<br />
occupied heavywave<br />
space. Behind<br />
all that charging<br />
15-metre waves<br />
at Shipstern and<br />
Jaws are things<br />
you never saw<br />
last century.<br />
Impact injuries:<br />
broken femurs,<br />
broken backs, destroyed<br />
shoulders, concussions,<br />
ankle dislocations. Most of<br />
these injuries pass us by;<br />
they barely touch the radar<br />
screen, if they’re heard of<br />
at all.<br />
I won’t even get into the<br />
fact that almost all these<br />
with Nick Carroll<br />
injuries are being racked up<br />
by males.<br />
Meanwhile, the over-50s<br />
among us head for the<br />
orthopaedic specialist’s<br />
office, hoping to extract a<br />
few more years of magic out<br />
of the situation.<br />
42 JUNE <strong>2017</strong><br />
Celebrating 25 Years