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Pittwater Life June 2017 Issue

Cafe Society. Exclusive Q&A: Michael Regan. Dummies Guide To The B-Line. Cash Splash.

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Surfing <strong>Life</strong><br />

Surfing <strong>Life</strong><br />

Knee deep: Brother Tom<br />

faces up to ‘Robo’ reality<br />

Surgery reminds us we’re all human, surf star or not, writes Nick...<br />

One Thursday morning<br />

a month or so<br />

ago, I walked into<br />

a rather expensive North<br />

Sydney private hospital<br />

ward, looked at my younger<br />

brother stretched out fast<br />

asleep with a large strip<br />

bandage running down the<br />

centre of his right knee, and<br />

realised: It’s finally, actually<br />

happened.<br />

The morning before, a<br />

surgical team had pushed<br />

an epidural needle into<br />

little Tommy Carroll’s spine,<br />

drenched him in general<br />

anaesthetic, cut off the base<br />

of his right femur and the<br />

summit of his right tibia,<br />

and with the help of laser<br />

guidance and GPS, fitted a<br />

titanium/cobalt joint in their<br />

place.<br />

The surgery is a<br />

punctuation mark. It ends<br />

40-some years of Tom’s<br />

struggle with this knee<br />

– a struggle that began<br />

with a teenage wipeout at<br />

‘Pissing Point’, Umina, and<br />

continued through a full<br />

knee reconstruction and<br />

ACL replacement, several<br />

arthroscopy clean-out<br />

procedures, and endless<br />

weights and Yoga sessions,<br />

as he tried to keep the unruly<br />

joint in line long enough to<br />

win all those Pipe Masters<br />

and world titles, etc.<br />

It’s also a reminder:<br />

surfing might make us feel<br />

like we’re gonna live forever,<br />

but it’s as likely to wreck us<br />

as anything else.<br />

Elite-level surf injuries<br />

have changed a lot since the<br />

early 1980s, when Tom was<br />

first battling back from the<br />

reconstruction. You can trace<br />

the changes directly to the<br />

changing styles of surfing<br />

through the period. Back<br />

then, a study done by the<br />

late Brian Lowdon of Deakin<br />

University showed the most<br />

PHOTO: WSL / Ryan Heywood<br />

Flat-out stoked: Tom’s surgery ends the 40-year battle with his<br />

right knee that spanned the length of his pro career.<br />

common injury was a knee<br />

– more particularly a medial<br />

collateral ligament strain,<br />

which made sense because<br />

at the time, surfing was<br />

all about straining. These<br />

were the days of flat decked<br />

surfboards, on which you<br />

squatted down low, pushed,<br />

shoved, and power-battled<br />

your way across the wave. In<br />

an awkward situation, your<br />

back foot would either slip<br />

off the tail, or your entire<br />

leg would be compressed<br />

sideways along the board’s<br />

length, flexing the knee<br />

in ways it was never built<br />

to be flexed. The old Ace<br />

knee bandage was never so<br />

popular.<br />

By the early 2000s,<br />

when the Association of<br />

Surfing Professionals’ then<br />

chiropractor Dean Innis<br />

undertook a similar study,<br />

he found the focus of injury<br />

had shifted away from the<br />

knee and toward the ankle<br />

joint and lower back. Curvier<br />

surfboards, faster-twitch<br />

styles, late-takeoff tube<br />

riding and air moves<br />

were changing the<br />

injury game as<br />

much as they were<br />

changing the judging<br />

criteria.<br />

Today, the injuries<br />

are more extreme.<br />

Not so much at<br />

world pro tour level<br />

(where the ankle’s<br />

still the big one) as<br />

in the increasingly<br />

occupied heavywave<br />

space. Behind<br />

all that charging<br />

15-metre waves<br />

at Shipstern and<br />

Jaws are things<br />

you never saw<br />

last century.<br />

Impact injuries:<br />

broken femurs,<br />

broken backs, destroyed<br />

shoulders, concussions,<br />

ankle dislocations. Most of<br />

these injuries pass us by;<br />

they barely touch the radar<br />

screen, if they’re heard of<br />

at all.<br />

I won’t even get into the<br />

fact that almost all these<br />

with Nick Carroll<br />

injuries are being racked up<br />

by males.<br />

Meanwhile, the over-50s<br />

among us head for the<br />

orthopaedic specialist’s<br />

office, hoping to extract a<br />

few more years of magic out<br />

of the situation.<br />

42 JUNE <strong>2017</strong><br />

Celebrating 25 Years

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