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SPITSBERGEN TOUR REPORT - Birdquest

SPITSBERGEN TOUR REPORT - Birdquest

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tusks. We then sailed south to the northwest of the main island of Svalbard. The mist soon<br />

disappeared and dramatic scenery appeared all around us as we anchored just off the entrance of the<br />

Raudfjord. All five zodiacs were launched, and for the next couple of hours we explored the bay,<br />

admiring the huge colony of Black-legged Kittiwakes and Brünnich’s Guillemots on the precipitous<br />

cliffs, and drifting about amongst the bright blue icebergs in front of the 3km wide Hamilton glacier.<br />

In the afternoon we sailed to the nearby little island of Fuglesangen, where we enjoyed a delightful<br />

afternoon just sitting at the edge of an enormous Little Auk colony. These delightful little creatures<br />

soon settled down within very close range and posed so incredibly well. We had a great time here<br />

just lying amongst the boulders and watching these cuties display and cackle and fight and snooze.<br />

Magical moments. Every now and then a Glaucous Gull flew over the colony and startled all the<br />

Little Auks in taking flight, whereby they showed off their amazing flight prowess in spectacular<br />

dense Starling-like formations. But soon they settled down again, often within a few meters from us.<br />

This was definitely one of the highlights of the trip!<br />

On our last full day in Spitsbergen, we landed on Prins Karls Forland at a sandspit called<br />

Poolepynten, a haul out spot for male Walruses. A strategic approach under the watchful eye of our<br />

German expedition leader Rolf resulted in being able to approach these gentle-looking giants within<br />

50m. We spent a very enjoyable couple of hours watching and photographing the antics of these<br />

strange creatures that look like big fat slugs on land, but move so elegantly in the water. A<br />

spectacularly breaching Humpback Whale provided even more entertainment and so did another<br />

Beluga. Arctic Skuas were very much a feature of this area and once we saw no fewer than four birds<br />

chasing the same hapless Black-legged Kittiwake. Three Red-throated Divers were displaying, Red<br />

Phalaropes were spinning away and we also obtained our best views of several Great Skuas here. In<br />

the afternoon we explored a lovely tundra spot full of flowers called Eidembukta. The leisurely walk<br />

yielded a flock of c500 drake Common Eiders, about 15 King Eiders, a party of Long-tailed Duck<br />

including a male in winter plumage and several displaying Purple Sandpipers. We then sailed to<br />

Longyearbyen as several passengers had to catch a middle of the night flight out. After some final<br />

formalities on board, we said our farewells to our friendly crew and the Oceanwide Expeditions staff,<br />

and disembarked from the Professor Multanovskiy for the last time. A short bus ride brought us into<br />

town, and then those who did not want to spend the morning shopping ambled out to the husky<br />

kennels on the outskirts of town. Common Eiders, fierce Arctic Terns and Snow Buntings waved their<br />

goodbyes and we had lunch at the Café Busen. We then boarded our bus for the airport, and were on<br />

our way back to the hustle and bustle of the civilised world, filled with delightful memories and with<br />

full memory cards.<br />

4 <strong>Birdquest</strong>: Spitsbergen 2007

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