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wilmettebeacon.com dining out<br />

the wilmette beacon | March 22, 2018 | 41<br />

Updated Max’s Deli menu boasts fresh, healthy options<br />

Megan Bernard<br />

Contributing Editor<br />

Max’s Deli has been a<br />

long-standing establishment<br />

in the North Shore<br />

for more than 25 years.<br />

To be successful for more<br />

years to come, its owner is<br />

revamping the menu with<br />

more health-conscious and<br />

fresh dishes for the future.<br />

Joey Morelli, a trained<br />

chef, and his brother<br />

opened up Joey’s Brickhouse<br />

in Chicago in 2004.<br />

After a seven-year run,<br />

they were ready to take<br />

over their grandfather Bernie<br />

Katz’s business, Max’s<br />

Deli at 191 Skokie Valley<br />

Road in Highland Park.<br />

At first, like the saying<br />

goes, if it wasn’t broke,<br />

they didn’t fix it — so<br />

nothing changed menuwise<br />

at the restaurant.<br />

They did, however, eventually<br />

add a full-service<br />

bakery, so Max’s produces<br />

cupcakes, cookies, pies,<br />

bagels, bailies, among<br />

other baked goods, just<br />

behind the counter made<br />

fresh for customers.<br />

When 22nd Century<br />

Media visited last in 2015,<br />

the deli owners said they<br />

were open to new ideas<br />

and responsive to community<br />

preferences. For<br />

example, we reported that<br />

Max’s rolled out a blueberry<br />

cream cheese that<br />

they said was perfectly<br />

delicious, but the community<br />

didn’t take to it. Later,<br />

the cooks concocted<br />

a jalapeno cream cheese<br />

and it was then one of the<br />

top sellers.<br />

Now, Morelli is ready to<br />

make some more changes<br />

to better the restaurant and<br />

keep up with the times.<br />

Morelli inspires to<br />

turn his “old-school Jewish<br />

deli” into a “fun and<br />

hip” eatery to welcome a<br />

younger crowd and more<br />

families, slightly changing<br />

The egg-in-the-hole bagel at Max’s Deli in Highland Park features a sunny-side up<br />

egg surrounded by a fresh bagel in a flavor of your choosing. Photos By Jacqueline<br />

Glosniak/22nd Century Media<br />

the dynamic from the older<br />

clientele.<br />

“It’s been a process.<br />

There is nothing fun and<br />

hip about Max’s Deli because<br />

it’s been here for<br />

more than 25 years, but to<br />

evolve to the next level,<br />

we are going to have to<br />

reinvent ourselves or we’ll<br />

die,” Morelli said.<br />

The reinvention began<br />

about eight months<br />

ago, Morelli said, when<br />

he switched over the restaurant’s<br />

chicken fingers<br />

on its children’s menu<br />

by trading the “mystery<br />

meat” with tenders from<br />

Harrison’s Chicken, coating<br />

them in extra fine flour<br />

and frying them in clean<br />

canola oil.<br />

“But the kids wanted the<br />

same chicken because they<br />

were so used to it so I had<br />

some backlash,” he said. “I<br />

hesitated and got scared. A<br />

couple months later, I talked<br />

to enough customers<br />

and just said ‘Screw it. If<br />

someone wants to get mad<br />

at me for this then they<br />

will have to just be mad.’”<br />

Max’s Deli<br />

191 Skokie Valley<br />

Road, Highland Park<br />

(847) 831-0600<br />

www.maxs-deli.com<br />

Open 7 a.m.-8:30 p.m.<br />

daily<br />

The revamping spread<br />

to other parts of the deli’s<br />

menu, including the mac<br />

’n’ cheese, which previously<br />

was shipped to the<br />

store with a pre-made<br />

cheese pouch. Now, Morelli<br />

makes the dish homemade<br />

with his own cheese<br />

sauce (quality American<br />

cheese, milk and butter)<br />

and boiled noodles then<br />

melts it all together.<br />

Other new items include:<br />

chicken and waffles,<br />

an egg-in-the-hole bagel, a<br />

turkey burger made from<br />

the scraps of turkey they<br />

roast in-house and a veggie<br />

burger made with 12<br />

different vegetables.<br />

“Our burgers are no longer<br />

brown discs of something,”<br />

Morelli said. “They<br />

are made fresh in our<br />

kitchen with fresh ingredients.<br />

They are on homemade<br />

kaiser rolls, too, that<br />

we bake right here.”<br />

There are now also<br />

gluten-free options, like<br />

bagels, wraps and matzo<br />

crackers. And, there’s a<br />

new crowd-pleaser: makeyour-own<br />

omelets.<br />

When 22nd Century<br />

Media visited again last<br />

week, we sampled some<br />

of Max’s new dishes and<br />

were pleasantly surprised.<br />

The fresh ingredients stood<br />

out and provided flavor to<br />

what could be a bland dish<br />

elsewhere.<br />

We started with the eggin-the-hole<br />

bagel, which<br />

was served sunny-side<br />

up, and a sesame bagel<br />

with lox and chive cream<br />

cheese. The portions were<br />

generous and the bagels<br />

and trimmings were extremely<br />

fresh.<br />

The mac ‘n’ cheese was<br />

next and instantly became<br />

one of our favorites. While<br />

there are so many varieties<br />

of this dish, Max’s nailed<br />

it with its homemade take<br />

Mac ‘n’ cheese at Max’s Deli is a classic homemade<br />

serving of elbow macaroni noodles in a warm and<br />

gooey homemade American cheese sauce.<br />

Chicken tenders at the restaurant are now made with<br />

fresh, all-white meat instead of frozen, GMO chicken<br />

products.<br />

with the creamy, homemade<br />

cheese sauce you’d have as<br />

a side at Thanksgiving.<br />

Another cherished dish<br />

was the grilled cheese<br />

and tomato basil soup,<br />

which replaced canned<br />

Campbell’s tomato soup<br />

in Max’s kitchen, Morelli<br />

said. Any consumer would<br />

be able to tell the sandwich<br />

and soup was thoughtfully<br />

prepared and made inhouse<br />

that day.<br />

We also tried the “controversial”<br />

chicken tenders<br />

and fries, and we<br />

preferred them with the<br />

current fresh, white meat<br />

instead of previous “the<br />

sponge meat,” as Morelli<br />

described it.<br />

Looking forward, along<br />

with the reinvention, Morelli<br />

plans to host a milkshake<br />

bar in the summer<br />

for families and children.<br />

The deli’s ice cream is<br />

supplied by Homer’s Ice<br />

Cream in Wilmette.<br />

“It used to be chemically-enhanced<br />

ice cream,”<br />

Morelli said. “Now we get<br />

natural, local ice cream<br />

from Homer’s and I believe<br />

that’s the future of<br />

this place.<br />

“It’s a battle I still<br />

haven’t figured out. For<br />

me, it’s all about a healthy<br />

and homemade menu so I<br />

hope it works.”

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