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www.westendermagazine.com | 27<br />
@<br />
ELENA’S<br />
Image I Gregor Reid<br />
Reviewed by David McPhee<br />
You know that feeling you get when<br />
you’re on holiday in a hot country?<br />
You’re sitting outside late in the evening,<br />
the warm air soothing your soul by the<br />
second, a cold beer at your hip, waiting for<br />
your meal to arrive and you think: ‘Why can’t<br />
it be like this back home?’ Elena’s is a little bit<br />
like that.<br />
Somehow they’ve managed to export<br />
the thing you’d consider to be the least<br />
transportable. How they got it through British<br />
customs is anyone’s guess.<br />
On the night in question I was with a few<br />
friends enjoying a couple of Finnieston<br />
libations when the subject of food came up –<br />
but it was 9:15pm, who would still be serving<br />
food at such an ungodly hour?<br />
‘Not a problem’ came the answer from our<br />
amiable innkeeper at Elena’s. Not only were<br />
we welcome, they didn’t even rush around<br />
trying to squeeze everything in before the<br />
kitchen closed, it just stayed open a little<br />
later. Here you get the sense that nothing is<br />
worth getting worked up over, and getting<br />
worked up makes no sense.<br />
On this particular evening we were in a<br />
sharing kind of mood, which is handy<br />
because Elena’s serve ‘raciones’, small<br />
dishes which are a bit bigger than tapas and<br />
perfect for group dining.<br />
The Tortilla española is as dense and<br />
satisfying as anything you’ll experience in the<br />
Cantabrian region from which these dishes<br />
derive. While the Patatas bravas (fried potato)<br />
comes with a delicious accompanying spicy<br />
sauce it’s the Galician style octopus you<br />
won’t be able to take your tentacles off. The<br />
dish is cooked just right so it’s crunchy on the<br />
outside and soft on the inside.<br />
The main course of Chuletas de cordero<br />
a la parrilla or grilled lamb cutlets are truly<br />
sublime and a favourite of the house, they<br />
melt in the mouth and are seasoned perfectly.<br />
The Tempranillo we ordered was so damn<br />
good, we ordered another bottle. It worked<br />
with everything, including the level of<br />
conversation at my table<br />
A dessert of Crema Catalana was a fitting<br />
end to the great meal and a wonderful<br />
Spanish take on the French classic crème<br />
brulee. The consistency and flavour are so<br />
moreish it will have you dancing back up<br />
Old Dumbarton Road sometime soon for a<br />
second sitting.<br />
Any successful establishment needs a<br />
person who exemplifies what that place<br />
rightly stands for. Elena Xavier has brought<br />
the food from her Spanish region to our<br />
fair city for you to sample, and sample you<br />
should.<br />
Like Elena herself, this restaurant is full<br />
of passion, brimming with flavour and, on<br />
occasion, just the right amount of ‘loco’.<br />
Elena’s Spanish Bar & Restaurant<br />
90 Old Dumbarton Road G3 8PZ<br />
0141 237 4730<br />
elenastapas.com