ABW Dec 2017

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Sailing Tips Equi You’ve always been interested to sail, but you know little about boat parts, the confusing technobabble, and what little you know is making your head spin in four different directions! Worry no more. This continuing series of articles is for you: it covers tips regarding hardware present on most boats, as well as common sailing techniques, terms and definitions, the names of the different pieces of hardware, and much more. This will keep you informed about most things you will need before you begin your own sailing excursion. Be sure to consult with an experienced sailor and someone knowledgeable about boats. The bow and stern lines have to be strong enough to carry the main load of the boat. Article excerpts reprinted from the book CRUISER HANDLING by BOB BOND & STEVE SLEIGHT Polyform f-series boat fenders Your boat is probably going to have to spend a good deal of its life berthed alongside a quay or pontoon. It is therefore crucial to know how to secure it properly to prevent it from moving around and damaging both itself and other craft. You will also need the proper equipment with which to secure it: good-quality rope warps, fenders of a suitable size and shape for your boat that are strong enough to withstand chafe on rough walls, and cleats and fairleads fixed to your boat, sturdily made and securely bolted on. All the equipment with which to secure it should be checked regularly for signs of wear and tear, if you do not wish to find yourself adrift one night in the middle of a gale. 78 In Normal circumstances, you would choose a berth which is sheltered from the full force of wind and waves, but now and again you may have no alternative. Any equipment must be strong enough to withstand considerable pressure. Make sure the knots you tie will not come undone.
pment for Berthing Boat at dock Rope with plastic tubing Fenders Fenders are usually made of plastic, although you do get rope ones occasionally. They are hung over the side of the boat, tied to the stanchions or grabrails, and are carefully positioned to prevent the boat from rubbing against the sides of the berth, or another boat. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes to suit the needs of different boats and berthing situations. You will need at least four large fenders on board, preferably more. They are, however bulky and take up a lot of space. Since only the widest part of the boat normally touches the side of the berth, you need only position them where the side of the boat and berth meet. If you are berthed up alongside an uneven quay wall, you may find it best to hang a fender board (wooden plank) outside the fenders to spread the load correctly and protect the boat. Cleats and Fairleads The cleats on your boat should be as large as possible, since the larger the cleat the less wear there is on the warp. There should be no sharp edges to it, and every boat should be equipped with at least four deck cleats which can be used for mooring. Bigger boats will need more. If the warps are under great strain, you should have a Sampson post. Your boat should have a fairlead on either side, at the bow and stern, so that the warps do not rub against the stanchions or rigging. The fairleads can be open or closed at the top, although the closed type are safer since the warp cannot slip out accidently. Warps The warps used for berthing a boat serve different functions. Two warps, which form the bow and stern lines, position the boat correctly in the berth, and are used by the crew to control the boat’s speed when coming alongside. The bow and stern lines have to be strong enough to carry the main load of the boat and long enough to allow for any rise and fall of the tide (roughly three times the tidal range). Two other warps rigged as springs, prevent the boat from moving backwards and forwards, and from rubbing against the side of the berth. These don’t have to be as long as the bow and stern lines: one and a half times the tidal range is normally sufficient. The bow and stern lines and the springs need adjusting as the tide rises and falls. The bow and stern lines, provided they are long enough, need only be adjusted at half tide; the springs may need more frequent adjustment. If you are going to leave your boat unattended for some time, you must make sure that you have left enough length on the lines to allow for the tidal range. When lying alongside a quay or wall do not lead the springs through or under the rails, but take the instead through the fairleads then outside all the rigging, to prevent chafe on the deck edge or lifelines as the boat rises and falls with the tide. You can use fore and aft breast ropes to keep the boat close alongside when loading, for example. They are not, however, essential when both bow and stern lines, and springs are used. When lying alongside a floating pontoon, they can be used to replace the bow and stern lines. When about to leave a berth, you usually rig the lines ashore as slip lines, so that the crew does not need to go ashore. 79
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