UJ #11 - Lima

PHOTOGRAPHIC REPORT 

MULTICULTURAL CITY 

SPECIAL EDITION 

LIMA 

CASA DE ALIAGA EXPERIENCE 

Interview with Natalia Majluf anda Flavio Calda, 

Directives of MALI

Kuelap, Kuelap, hidden hidden Fortress Fortress of the Chachapoya of the Chachapoya People, People, a highlight a highlight of Peru’s of Peru’s Northern Northern Circuit. Circuit.

INDEX 

EXECUTIVE EDITOR ULTIMATE JOURNEYS 

GERARDO SUGAY 

CONTENT EDITOR 

RODRIGO CABRERA / KM CERO 

DIEGO GUERRERO / LIMA TOURS 

EDITOR 

CAROLINA SAN ROMAN / KM CERO 

EDITION ASSISTANT 

GERALDYNE LONGORIA / KM CERO 

COORDINATION 

KM CERO 

ART DIRECTOR 

KM CERO 

12 

60 

MARKETS IN LIMA 

Info graph 

INDEX 

52 

6 Editorial 

8 Updates 

12 Photographic report/ 

Multicultural city 

Traditions and identities 

22 Guide to Lima 

The Historic Centre 

32 Guide to Lima 

Resorts 

42 Callao 

A quick guide 

50 Pachacamac Archaeological 

Sanctuary 

Info graph 

52 Ancient Lima 

Important archaeological sites 

and the main museums 

in the city 

60 Interview with Natalia Majluf 

and Flavio Calda 

Directives of MALI: “Lima’s 

great wealth is its museums” 

PHOTOGRAPHY EDITOR 

CHRISTIAN DECLERCQ / KM CERO 

GRAPHIC DESIGN 

MIGUEL SANTAYA / SONIA ARAUJO 

INFOGRAPHS 

SANDRA FLORIAN 

WRITERS 

IÑIGO MANEIRO 

PAOLA MIGLIO 

DIEGO OLIVER 

SANTIAGO PILLADO-MATHEU 

SERGIO REBAZA 

TRANSLATION AND CORRECTION OF TEXT 

PETER SPENCE 

PHOTOGRAPHERS 

SANTIAGO BARCO 

ALEX BRYCE 

MAX CABELLO 

RODRIGO CABRERA 

CHRISTIAN DECLERCQ 

ANTONIO ESCALANTE 

RENZO GIRALDO 

ADRIAN PORTUGAL 

ARCHIVO KM CERO 

ARCHIVO LIMA TOURS 

ARCHIVO PROMPERU 

ARCHIVO RESTAURANTE CENTRAL 

22 

PACHACAMAC 

ARCHAEOLOGICAL 

SANCTUARY 

Info graph 

MULTICULTURAL 

CITY 


32 

78 

70 

94 

70 Good eating in Lima 

Four chefs and two food 

writers give us their 

recommendations 

76 Markets in Lima 

Info graph 

78 Casa de Aliaga 

The new face of a colonial 

property with 481 years 

of history 

88 Advertorial 

90 Music in Lima 

Between tradition, urban 

vanguard and tropical anarchy 

94 New soul 

Objects and spaces enjoying 

a second life 

100 Expat 

102 Agenda 

/5

EDITORIAL 

Off the beaten track by the old Inca bridge, in the Machu Picchu Sanctuary. 

Dear reader: 

The City of Kings, former capital of the Viceroyalty of Peru… The Pearl of the Pacific, needs no introduction these 

days. Peru’s capital has a unique and addictive atmosphere and conceals innumerable places, scenes and 

histories that demand to be discovered. 

This latest edition of ULTIMATE JOURNEYS - Travel in Peru concentrates on Lima and reveals all of its secrets, 

museums, mansions, parks and gardens. The city makes it easy for us to learn about its pre-Hispanic, colonial, 

republican and modern history. All of this in one destination, a metropolis full of life and experiences with a view 

towards the future. 

UNESCO was right to declare it a World Heritage Site in 1991 because of its architectural treasures and monuments 

that bear witness to a glorious past. Lima has some surprising stories to tell and, much more than its culture and 

history, it is a living expression of what we are today. 

In this edition we interview Natalia Majluf and Flavio Calda, director and general manager, respectively, of Lima Museum 

of Art (MALI), one of Peru’s most important museums, which contains one of the most important collections 

of Peruvian art. 

Ours is the only South American capital city on the Pacific coast, a natural bridge for people from all over the world 

who have brought with them their customs and cultures. All of this has added to our local culture, the heir to ancient 

civilisations that today can be seen in the traditions of thousands of migrants from all over the country who, today, 

meet in this great capital. Enjoy this amalgam of life and colour that is the origin of our gastronomy, art and identity: 

enjoy Lima. 

Enjoy reading and learning! 

Your friends from Lima Tours 

OHSAS 18001 

BUREAU VERITAS 

Certification

UPDATES 

UPDATES 

EVENING VISIT AROUND HUACA PUCLLANA 

The Huaca Pucllana Site Museum is now open at night Wednesdays to Sundays, 

from 7 p.m. until 10 p.m. The tour includes a guide and covers all sectors of Huaca 

Pucllana, except for the top of the pyramid. For further information go to: 

http://huacapucllanamiraflores.pe. 

INTERNATIONAL CHAIN PLANS 

TO OPEN SEVEN HOTELS IN PERU 

The international Accor Hotels chain is planning to open 

a further seven hotels in Peru before 2018. This will 

add seven hundred more rooms and ensure continual 

investment in the cities of Lima and Cusco. 

Heinz Plenge Pardo 

Gihan Tubbeh 

GRAN PAJATEN IS PERU'S FIFTH BIOSPHERE RESERVE 

UNESCO has recognised Gran Pajaten —a natural area divided between the 

departments of Amazonas, La Libertad and San Martin— as Peru’s fifth biosphere 

reserve. It is also the first biosphere reserve in South America to contain a mixed 

world heritage site (cultural and natural). Its core zone is the Rio Abiseo Natural 

Park, a protected natural area containing the Gran Pajaten archaeological site. 

APPROVAL GIVEN FOR REGULATIONS 

COVERING TOURISM IN MANU NATIONAL 

PARK 

The State-Protected Natural Parks Service 

(Sernanp) has approved regulations for 

tourism in Manu National Park. The aim 

is to regulate its use for tourism and to 

ensure that this activity is compatible with 

the purposes of conservation for which the 

park was created.

UPDATES 

LIMA WORLD BIOSPHERE CAPITAL IN 2016 

The Fourth World Congress of Biosphere Reserves 

was held in Lima from the 14th to the 17th of April.1500 

guests were invited from the 120 participating 

countries. The result was an agenda for the next 

decade, for the world’s 651 biosphere reserves, and 

delegates signed an Action Plan and the Declaration 

of Lima. 

Cesar Vega 

SATELLITE IMAGES REVEAL THE MEANING 

OF PUQUIOS BUILT BY THE NASCAS 

A new analysis of satellite images carried out 

by the Institute for Environmental Analysis 

Methodologies in Italy has shown the significance 

of the puquios built by the Nascas. The team 

of investigators confirms that the location of the 

puquios was based on the distribution of water 

in the area and that these spiral constructions 

were a form of ventilation that introduced 

air into a network of underground channels. 

These structures were used fundamentally for 

the system of irrigation and water transfer that 

helped the Nascas to live in this desert land. 

Heinz Plenge 

CHICAMA IS THE FIRST LEGALLY PROTECTED 

WAVE IN THE WORLD 

The Chicama wave, recognised as the longest 

left wave in the world, is the first wave ever to 

be protected by law. The ruling protects the 

breaker and prevents the granting of any other 

type of rights on this area. This is not only a great 

achievement for world surfing, but also sets a 

precedent in environmental law by guaranteeing 

the protection of an environmental service. 

Alex Bryce 

NEW SITE MUSEUM OPENED AT PACHACAMAC 

ARCHAEOLOGICAL SANCTUARY 

The Pachacamac Site Museum, at the archaeological 

sanctuary of the same name —located in Lurin, 

31.5 kilometres from Lima on the Old Pan-American 

Highway— was opened last February. It has been 

built to international standards and in harmony with its 

surroundings. It offers visitors a display consisting of 

277 objects; most of them ceramics, textiles, wooden 

and metal artefacts left by pilgrims to the sanctuary. 

The exhibits include the Pachacamac idol, a wooden 

artefact that is emblematic of the museum. 

LIMA HOSTS OUTSTANDING INTERNATIONAL 

BLOGGERS 

Four of the most popular Latin American travel 

bloggers visited Lima. They formed part ofthe 3 Travel 

Bloggers team, which visits innumerable destinations 

around the world and then publicises them on social 

media. Jose Luis Pastor Tejada, Ariana Arteaga, Maria 

Victoria Viudes and Arturo Bullard arrived in Lima 

sponsored by Inter Continental Hotels Group, the 

Crowne Plaza Lima and Avianca. During their sevenday 

stay in the city they pursued cultural activities and 

adventures and enjoyed the capital’s gastronomy. 

Rodrigo Cabrera

Adrian Portugal 


THE CITY OF LIMA IS 

A MICROCOSM OF 

PERU: MEMBERS OF 

ALL OF THE COUNTRY'S 

DIFFERENT COMMUNITIES 

ARE GATHERED HERE, 

BRINGING WITH THEM 

THEIR TRADITIONS, 

FOOD, LANGUAGES AND 

CUSTOMS. LIMA TODAY 

IS THE RESULT OF THIS 

GREAT MIXTURE, WHICH 

HAS CREATED A UNIQUE 

AND MULTIFACETED 

SOCIETY. 

Multicultural 

city 


By 

Diego Oliver 

The Ruta Mare 

project creates 

expressions of 

the popular art of 

migrants to Lima. 

/13



Left: 

The Nueva 

Esperanza 

cementery is the 

second largest in 

the world. It covers 

more than 60 

hectares. 

Right: 

The contagious 

happiness of a 

yunza: the custom 

of decorating a tree 

with balloons, fruit 

and toys before 

cutting it down 

while dancing 

around it. 

All Souls Day is a special date in the Peruvian 

calendar. On the 31st of October each year 

visitors to the Nueva Esperanza cemetery in 

Villa Maria del Triunfo meet their relatives and, through 

their collective memories, the dead come back to life 

for a joint celebration. 

Seen from one of its surrounding hills, this cemetery 

looks like a huge miniature city, where the fivestorey 

graves resemble skyscrapers. People walk 

like giants among the thousands of tombs, many 

unmarked just to add to the confusion. Musicians 

for hire at five soles play huainos and beer bottles are 

thrust neck first into the earth so that “they” can also 

enjoy “their” celebration. Drink, local food, flowers, 

candles and blessings are all on sale. The unusual 

thing about this fiesta is that it was not originally 

a Lima tradition; it was brought by the millions of 

provincial folk who, decades earlier, left their homes 

and came to Lima in search of a better life in the 

“City of Kings”. 

Lima as it is today is the result of a series of political 

and social transformations that have taken place 

over several centuries. One of the most significant 

took place in the middle of the 20th Century and 

was described by anthropologist Jose Matos Mar: 

massive migration from the countryside to the city. 

At the beginning of the 20th Century Lima was a city 

of little more than 100,000 inhabitants dominated by 

a mixed-race aristocracy. However, in the 1940s — 

when it already had 600,000 people— it experienced 

Antonio Escalante 

a demographic explosion with the arrival of thousands 

of migrants from the centre of the country. That gave 

rise to a new group of proprietors, shopkeepers and 

workers, new neighbourhoods arose near the centre 

of the city, roads were improvised and then paved, 

there were more street vendors and Quechua, the 

native language of the Peruvian highlands began 

to be spoken in the streets of the capital. The sad 

huainos of the highlands could be heard alongside 

traditional Creole music, while at meal times, classic 

picarones were joined by guinea pig and the capital 

celebrated Andean fiestas and processions such as 

Qoyllorit'i. Between 1940 and 1960 the population 

trebled and by 1984 more than five million people 

were living in Lima. 

The city founded in 1535 by Francisco Pizarro is 

now home to ten million inhabitants, one third of 

the population of Peru. This immense metropolis 

contains members of every community of Peru: from 

the highlands, the coast and the jungle, as well as 

numerous groups of foreigners including Chinese, 

Japanese and Italians who came to Peru at different 

times in the country’s history. Each one of them, 

with traditions deeply rooted in their places of origin, 

have brought with them their languages, fiestas and 

dances; mixing their music and culinary traditions 

and making our great capital a multifaceted place. 

This is the true face of Lima: a mixture of origins, 

histories and traditions from far and near, of which 

we are all now the proud owners. 

Max Cabello 

More than 462 lay brotherhoods around the world celebrate one of the oldest and most important festivities 

of Peru: The Lord of the Miracles procession. 

/15


Most of the immigrants 

to Lima come from 

the highlands, which 

produces a welter of 

Andean music in the 

city. Their refrains tell 

of the daily life in their 

native lands and their 

experiences in the 

capital city. 

LIMA HAS 

43 

DISTRICTS; SAN JUAN DE 

LURIGANCHO IS THE LARGEST 

IN THE COUNTRY WITH MORE 

THAN 

1.5 

MILLION INHABITANTS 

THE POPULATION OF LIMA IS 

NEARLY 

9.7 

MILLION. 

ONE THIRD OF PERU'S 

POPULATION LIVE THERE 


Christian Declercq 


Above: 

The Historic 

Centre contains 

the city's past 

and its present. 

Colonial and 

republicanera 

buildings 

alongside 

the thriving 

commercial 

activity of the 

present. 

Below: 

Miraflores, 

Barranco and 

Chorrillos were 

Lima's resorts 

until the middle of 

the 20th Century. 

Today they are 

important districts 

of the city itself, 

given the urban 

growth since that 

time. 

IN THE PARQUE DE LA 

MURALLA YOU CAN SEE THE 

EXPANSION OF THE CITY OF 

LIMA. ON THE ONE HAND IS 

THE DISTRICT OF RIMAC, 

BUILT IN COLONIAL TIMES, 

AND ON THE OTHER IS SAN 

JUAN DE LURIGANCHO, 

DATING FROM THE SECOND 

HALF OF THE 20TH CENTURY 

Max Cabello 

/17


The beach is where daily routine and differences give way to recreation. Agua Dulce, in Chorrillos, is one of the most 

popular beaches in Lima. 


/19


Alex Bryce 

BELMOND PALACIO NAZARENAS, CUSCO 

DISCOVER OUR WORLD 

Max Cabello 

WE INVITE YOU TO DISCOVER OUR COLLECTION OF EXCEPTIONAL 

TRAVEL EXPERIENCES IN THE WORLD’S MOST REMARKABLE LOCATIONS. 

INDIVIDUAL, INSPIRED, AND IMAGINATIVE, THE WORLD OF BELMOND 

IS A WORLD LIKE NO OTHER. 

This great city is home to the individuals and traditions 

of all the communities of Peru, whether indigenous or 

foreign. 


HOTELS | TRAINS | RIVER CRUISES | JOURNE YS | BELMON D.COM 

/21

THE HISTORIC CENTRE 

Guide to Lima 

The Historic 

Centre 

San Martin Square, built 

in 1921 to celebrate the 

centenary of Peruvian 

independence. 


BUILT OVER AN ANCIENT 

PRE-HISPANIC CITADEL, 

THE MANY STYLES AND 

TECHNIQUES USED IN THE 

HISTORIC CENTRE OF LIMA 

GIVE IT AN ECLECTIC AND 

STYLISED AIR. A CITY WITH 

HUNDREDS OF YEARS OF 

ARCHITECTURAL HISTORY. 

By 

Sergio Rebaza 

Lima is the result of thousands of years of 

habitability. An ancient city, created by the clash 

of two ways of looking at the world: the Andean 

and the European. The current Historic Centre was 

built over the capital of the chieftaincy of Lima —ruled 

by Taulichusco— following a square street pattern 

referred to as Pizarro's chequerboard in honour of the 

Spanish conquistador who founded Lima in 1535. 

As the capital of the Spanish colony, the principal 

institutions representing the three powers of the state 

were established on the central square: spiritual (the 

cathedral), royal (the viceregal palace) and temporal 

(the municipal government). Regular earthquakes, 

time and indolence have left very little of the original 

Lima. Of the wall that enclosed the city for almost two 

centuries (17th - 19th) a small section remains, known 

as the Baluarte de Santa Lucia. It was bounded by 

what is now the Grau, Alfonso Ugarte and Paseo Colon 

avenues, and the Rimac River, behind the Presidential 

Palace. This is the area known as the Historic Centre, 

recognised as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 

1991. 

The Historic Centre, which includes part of the District 

of Rimac, on the other side of the river, contains most 

of Lima's historically important buildings; a small 

selection of styles throughout its history: colonial-era 

balconies, mansions, public squares, monasteries 

and convents, quintas and callejones are eloquent 

witnesses to alternating booms and crises, as well as 

monuments to government folly. A window on the past 

with secrets and history on every street corner. So, 

let's walk and learn. 

PIZARRO'S CHEQUERBOARD CONSISTS OF 

117 

BLOCKS COVERING A TOTAL OF 

215 

HECTARES 

/23



Above: inside the 

Casa de Aliaga. 

Below, left: 

Teatro Municipal. 

Below, right: Casa 

de Osambela. 

Architecture 

CASA DE ALIAGA 

This is possibly the oldest inhabited house in the Americas. 

Owned by the De Aliaga family for seventeen generations, 

its current form derives from a number of reconstructions 

and restorations and combines styles from different eras. 

An architectural jewel that is not to be missed. 

Guided tours 

Jr. De la Union 218-224, Cercado de Lima. 

Monday to Sunday: 9:30 a.m.-5 p.m. (prior reservation). 

Telephone: 427-7736 

http://www.casadealiaga.com. 

Museo Cementerio 

Presbitero Matias 

Maestro. 

Musuk Nolte 

QUINTA DE PRESA 

A classic example of the country houses of the 18th Century. 

It belonged to the Carrillo de Albornoz family until the end 

of the 19th Century. The original construction, covering 

15,000 square metres, included a mill and market garden. 

At present it is administered by the Heritage Trustees of 

Rimac. It is being restored by the World Monuments Fund, 

financed by the Plan Copesco Nacional. 

Jr. Chira 334, Rimac. 

PUENTE DE PIEDRA 

The oldest bridge in Lima, built in 1608 to connect the 

bank of the River Rimac (now Jiron de la Union in the 

centre of Lima and Jr. Trujillo in the district of Rimac). The 

bridge originally had balconies on each side that were later 

removed to accommodate tramcars and motor vehicles. 

As a result of the modifications it also lost one of its seven 

original arches. It is undoubtedly one of the most used 

bridges in the area, especially by pedestrians. 

TEATRO MUNICIPAL 

Inaugurated on the 28th of July 1930 with a production 

of Aida, this theatre was designed and built by Alfredo 

Viale in the neoclassical style. On the 2nd of August 

1998 it was gutted by fire. The main auditorium was 

restored and opened to the public on the 11th of 

October 2010, and the restoration was completed 

some months later. 

Jr. Ica 377, Cercado de Lima. 

http://teatromunicipal.pe. 

CASA DE OSAMBELA OR CASA OQUENDO 

Built between 1798 and 1808 on the site of the old convent of 

Nuestra Señora del Rosario, this mansion is a typical example 

of Lima architecture at the end of the 18th Century. Its most 

prominent features are the five enclosed ornamental balconies 

of the five bedrooms on the second floor. 

Jr. Conde de Superunda 298, Cercado de Lima. 

Other monuments 

MUSEO CEMENTERIO PRESBITERO MATIAS 

MAESTRO 

Jr. Ancash 1611, Cercado de Lima. 

Monday to Sunday: 8:30 a.m.-6 p.m. 

Telephone: 352-6208. 

MUSEO DE LA CATEDRAL DE LIMA 

Jr. Carabaya block 2, Main Square, Cercado 

de Lima. 

Monday to Friday: 9 a.m.-5 p.m. / 

Saturday: 10 a.m.-1 p.m. / 

Sunday: 1 p.m.-5 p.m. 


Culture 

The Historic Centre of Lima contains the capital's principal 

museums. Religious and conventual art, architecture and 

contemporary art, in a stroll through almost five centuries 

of history. 

MUSEO DE LOS DESCALZOS 

Inside the Monastery of the Discalced Franciscans, this 

museum was opened in 1981. The principal theme is art 

from the viceregal period and the conventual life of the 

Franciscans. More than four centuries of culture in one of 

the most representative zones of the District of Rimac: the 

Alameda de los Descalzos. 

Manco Capac 202-A, Alameda de los Descalzos, Rimac. 

Mondays to Sundays: 4 Morning tours: 9:30, 10:30, 11:30, 

a.m. and 12:30 p.m. /4 afternoon tours: 2, 3, 4 and 5 p.m. 


Paolo Lopez 

MUSEO DEL CONGRESO Y DE LA INQUISICION 

Created in 1968, this is one of the most popular museums. 

It is housed in what used to be the Peruvian Senate and 

much earlier the headquarters of the Holy Inquisition 

(1584-1810), where trials were held of those accused of 

heresy, sexual crimes or crimes against the Holy Office. 

Its principal attractions are the torture chamber and secret 

cells. 

Jr.Junin 548, Plaza Bolivar, Cercado de Lima. 

Monday to Sunday: 9 a.m.-5 p.m. 

Telephone: 311-7777, ext. 5160. 

Free guided visits. 

Below: 

Processional 

cloister in the 

Museo de los 

Descalzos. 



/25



Above: Library in the 

Museo Convento de 

San Francisco. 

Below: Façade of the 

Museo del Banco 

Central de Reserva. 


MUSEO DE ARTE DE LIMA-MALI 

Located in the Palacio de la Exposicion —where the 

Great Exhibition of Art, Science and Industry was held 

to celebrate Peruvian 50 years of independence— this 

museum, surrounded by beautiful gardens in the heart 

of the city, houses one of Peru's most important art 

collections: from pre-Hispanic items (textiles and ceramics) 

to contemporary works. It is the country's principal art 

gallery and one of the most important cultural centres in 

Lima. It was declared a National Monument in 1973. 

Paseo Colon 125, Parque de la Exposicion, Cercado de 

Lima. 

Tuesday to Sunday: 9 a.m.-7 p.m. / Saturday: 9 a.m.-5 

p.m. / last Friday of each month: 9 a.m.-10 p.m. 


www.mali.pe. 

MUSEO NACIONAL DE LA CULTURA PERUANA 

This is one of those museums that are always neglected; 

a serious mistake. It is one of the most interesting of the 

museums in the Historic Centre. Founded in 1946, it 

contains the largest collection of popular art in the country 

and plays a laudable role in promoting and propagating 

traditional Peruvian art. It is an essential stop on the route 

round central Lima. 

Av. Alfonso Ugarte 650, Cercado de Lima. 

Tuesday to Saturday: 9 a.m.-5 p.m. 


CASA DE LA LITERATURA PERUANA 

One of the new additions to Lima's cultural centres, 

located in the historic and monumental Desamparados 

Station alongside the Presidential Palace, the Casa de la 

Literatura has entertaining and educational displays and 

facilitates visits by people of all ages. It has a full cultural 

agenda throughout the year and is a place in which you 

should spend some time, to read each one of the displays. 

It is a monument to Peruvian letters. Let's read! 


Tuesday to Sunday: 9 a.m.-7 p.m. 


Entry is free. 

GALERIA MUNICIPAL PANCHO FIERRO 

This is the main gallery for non-commercial art in the centre, 

located next to the Town Hall. It hosts a lot of different 

events including talks and exhibitions of contemporary art, 

both Peruvian and foreign. 

Pasaje Santa Rosa 114, Cercado de Lima. 



Anibal Solimano 

Other museums 

MUSEO CONVENTO DE SAN FRANCISCO 

Plaza de San Francisco, Cercado de Lima. 

Monday to Sunday: 9:30 a.m.-5:30 p.m. 


MUSEO DE ARTE ITALIANO 

Paseo de la Republica 250, Cercado de Lima. 



MUSEO DEL CONVENTO DE SANTO DOMINGO 

Jr.Camana 170, Cercado de Lima. 

Monday to Sunday: 8:30 a.m.-5:30 p.m. 


MUSEO NACIONAL AFROPERUANO 


Monday to Friday: 9 a.m.-5 p.m. 



MUSEO DE SITIO BODEGA Y QUADRA 





MUSEO DEL BANCO CENTRAL 

DE RESERVA 

Jr. Ucayali 271, Cercado de Lima. 

Tuesday to Saturday: 9 a.m.-5 p.m. / Wednesday: 

9 a.m.-7 p.m. 

Telephone: 613-2000, ext. 2656. 

Entry is free, but a prior appointment is needed. 

Public Spaces 

In recent years, the centre of Lima has been reclaiming 

areas for the enjoyment of its citizens. Parks, boulevards, 

walks, squares and pedestrianised roads enable the 

inhabitants of greater Lima to come together and get to 

know their city. 

PARQUE DE LA EXPOSICI0N 

Located between Paseo Colon, Paseo de la Republica, 

28 de Julio and Garcilaso, this is one of the largest parks 

in the city of Lima. Created in 1870 by President Jose 

Balta for the National Exhibition of 1872, the Parque de la 

Exposicion originally included several pavilions —the main 

one being the Palacio de la Exposicion— of which the only 

survivors, apart from the Palacio, are the Venetian and 

the Moorish or Byzantine pavilions, near to Av. Garcilaso. 

More recently, the park hosted the Mistura International 

Gastronomy Fair and occasionally other smaller events, 

such as Expo Cafe and concerts in its open-air theatre. 

PARQUE DE LA RESERVA-CIRCUITO MAGICO 

DEL AGUA 

Originally part of the Parque de la Exposicion, the Parque 

de la Reserva was inaugurated by President Augusto B. 

Leguia in 1929, and is named after the reserve troops 

who defended the capital during the Pacific War. Located 

between Arequipa Avenue and Petit Thouars, this green 

space contains works from important Peruvian artists: 

sculptures by Cristina Galvez and Daniel Vasquez Paz, 

as well as a small construction that is the work of Jose 

Sabogal. After being abandoned for several decades, the 

park was reopened in 2007 with a new name: Circuito 

Magico del Agua, a set of three computer-controlled 

ornamental fountains that attract thousands of visitors 

every month. 

Tuesday to Sunday: 3p.m.-10:30p.m. 


TIME FOR A STROLL 

Jiron de la Union is, without doubt, the most important 

pedestrian-only street in Lima. It was laid down at the 

foundation of the Spanish city, linking the Main Square 

with San Martin Square, although it goes beyond that, to 

Paseo Grau. During the early years of the 20th Century it 

was the preferred walking area for Lima's aristocracy; but 

later on it became a purely shopping street. Curious facts: 

It was only pedestrianised in 1982 On this street you can 

appreciate the Municipality, Casa Courret (block 4), the 

beautiful Church of Nuestra Señora de la Merced and the 

Convento Mercedario (block 6), Casa Barragan (block 7), 

the Gran Hotel Bolivar (block 9) and the Rimac Building. 

Vamos a Jironear - "let's go for a walk" as Lima's earlier 

residents would say. 

THE CENTRE FOR PEDESTRIANS 

In recent years vehicles have been banned from 

several streets, benefiting not only pedestrians 

but also local shops. Now, for example, you can 

walk peacefully along the Ancash - Carabaya 

pedestrian zone —which connects the Presidential 

Palace, Casa de la Literatura Peruana and the 

Church of San Francisco— as well as along 

Jirones Ica and Ucayali. Apart from this permanent 

pedestrianisation, the Municipality has launched 

an initiative called "Pizarro's Checkerboard with 

no Cars" on the last Sunday of each month, which 

includes activities for all the family: art, culture, 

gastronomy, tourism, recreation, sport and even 

discounts in some stores. 

Above: 

Jiron de la Union, one of the 

busiest streets in the centre 

of Lima. 

Below: 

Moorish Pavilion in the 

Parque de la Exposicion. 

/27


DID YOU KNOW THAT YOU COULD 

CATCH CRAYFISH IN THE RIMAC RIVER UNTIL 

THE BEGINNING OF THE LAST CENTURY? 


Rodrigo Cabrera 

Guide 

EL CHINITO 

Sandwiches, chicharrones (roast pork). 

Jr. Chancay 894, Cercado de Lima. 


Monday to Saturday: 8 a.m.-9 p.m. / Sunday: 8 a.m.-1 p.m. 

TIO CANDELA 

Fried fish. 

Jr. Angaraes 482, Cercado de Lima. 


Monday to Saturday: 5 p.m.-8 p.m. 

THE MAIN SQUARE WAS THE SITE OF 

THE FIRST MARKET IN LIMA, CALLED EL GATO 

(THE CAT). AS THE YEARS PASSED IT MOVED 

AND GREW TO BECOME WHAT IS NOW THE 

CENTRAL MARKET 


Above: Pasaje Nicolas 

de Rivera El Viejo 

contains a number of 

restaurants. 

Below: Chinese arch in 

Calle Capon, entrance 

to Lima's Chinatown. 

Above: View of Cerro 

San Cristobal from 

the Alameda de los 

Descalzos. 

Below: The Alameda 

de los Descalzos 

still contains marble 

statues and seats 

installed in the 19th 

Century. 

CERRO SAN CRISTOBAL 

On the boundary of the districts of Rimac and San Juan 

de Lurigancho, this hill was the Apuor tutelary deity of the 

ancient inhabitants of Lima. Indeed, it was an observation 

point for the surrounding territory for both the ancient 

inhabitants and, later, the Spanish. On the summit of Cerro 

San Cristobal, as well as a hundred-year-old cross, there is 

a museum that is free to enter and gives information on the 

history of the city. But without doubt the most impressive 

thing about it is the 360 degree view it provides of greater 

Lima. It is a true icon of this mega city that should be visited 

and cared for. Access is signposted, both for pedestrians 

and vehicles. 

ALAMEDA DE LOS DESCALZOS 

This is one of the principal attractions of Rimac. It 

was completed in 1611 and was modelled on the 

Alameda de Hercules in Seville (Spain). The Los 

Descalzos Church and monastery are at one end; 

and at the other is the old Cristal brewery, with the 

house of Micaela Villegas, known as La Perricholi 

to one side. The Alameda was remodelled in 1857. 

The railings, imported from England, the cast-iron 

urns and marble seats, were installed during the 

remodelling, which was completed a year later with 

the installation of twelve statues made in Rome and 

representing the signs of the zodiac. It is the emblem 

of the District of Rimac. 

Lima: A kaleidoscope 

of flavours 

The centre of Lima contains all the flavours of a 

multicultural and multiethnic city that is the sum of all the 

nations making up Peru. Dare to try it. 

Some cities have a distinctive scent, just as some people 

do. In Lima's case one could say that it gives off the sum 

of all the world's scents. And indeed, the capital of Peru 

does contain all the world's flavours. Asian or oriental 

flavours mingle with native, African and European in an 

amalgam or emulsion of smells in every city street. Just 

walk around the Central Market to encounter the smell of 

cebiche, frying, hot embers and herbs that would have 

confounded even Jean-Baptiste Grenouille, protagonist 

of the novel El Perfume. 

Food is without a doubt the element that most 

represents the city. To such an extent that the Quality 

of Life Perception Report 2015 (Lima Como Vamos), 

cites creole food as the element that most identifies 

Lima's residents (49.6%), more than the Main Square 

(40.9%) and Our Lord of the Miracles (33.6%).Food is 

our religion. 

Bars, taverns and corner shops; street vendors and 

boulevards, fairs and markets. In a relatively small 

space, Lima contains an enviable range of cuisines. 

Anyone who visits should not miss Chinatown, one of 

the most important Chinese enclaves in Latin America. 

KAÑETE 

Creole food. 

Jr. Cañete 550, Cercado de Lima. 



PLAZA SAN MARTIN 

Peruvian cuisine. 

Nicolas de Pierola 942, Cercado de Lima. 


Monday to Thursday: 8 a.m.-8 p.m. / Friday: 8 a.m.-11:45 

p.m. / Saturday: 9 a.m.-6 p.m. / Sunday: 9 a.m.-4 p.m. 

L’EAU VIVE 

Home-made food, set lunch. 

Jr. Ucayali 370, Cercado de Lima. 


Monday to Saturday: 12:30 p.m.-3 p.m. / 7:30 p.m.-9:30 

p.m. 

SALON DE LA FELICIDAD 

Peruvian-Chinese food. 

Jr. Paruro 795, Chinatown, Cercado de Lima. 



TANTA 

Cafe, bar, restaurant. 

Pasaje Nicolas de Rivera El Viejo 142, Cercado de Lima. 


Monday to Saturday: 9 a.m.-10 p.m. / 

Sunday: 9 a.m.-6 p.m. 


/29


Left: Century-old 

Cordano restaurant. 

Right: San Martin 

Square, epicentre of 

Lima's night life. 

Night life 

The Historic Centre of Lima has been the epicentre of the 

cultural and bohemian life of the city since its foundation 

481 years ago. Let's party! 

In Lima a fiesta is called a jarana, and party-goers jaraneros: 

a Creole person born in Peru with a full yet courteous 

social life, who lives in the poorer neighbourhoods such 

as Barrios Altos and Rimac, where waltzes, polkas and 

marineras can still be heard. 

The centre's golden age was undoubtedly the end of the 

19th Century and beginning of the 20th, when the city and 

its culture were at their apogee. Artists, revolutionaries and 

poets like Abraham Valdelomar and thinkers such as Jose 

Carlos Mariategui made our city into a cultural extension of 

the great European capitals. 

Years later, however, the centre entered a darker age. 

The bohemian festive spirit moved to other districts and 

the centre began a long process of not just physical but 

cultural deterioration. A few places kept the spirit alive, 

such as the century-old Cordano Bar —part of Peru's 

national heritage since 1989— and a favourite of poets 

and artists from the nineteen fifties to the seventies, such 

as Martin Adan and Victor Humareda. 

Happily, in the last twenty years the centre of the capital 

has been reborn. Art galleries, cultural initiatives, bars 

and cafes have given the centre of Lima a new, classical 

and enduring atmosphere appropriate to a renewed city 

that that attracts locals and foreigners alike. Let the party 

continue. Long live the centre! 

CORDANO 

Restaurant. 


Monday to Sunday: 8 a.m.-8:30 p. m. 

MUNICH PIANO BAR 

Tavern. 

Jiron de la Union 1044, Cercado de Lima. 

Monday to Saturday from 5 p.m. 

MI TERCER LUGAR 

Cafe Bar. 

Jr. Camana 483, Cercado de Lima. 

Monday to Friday: 8 a.m.-9:30 p.m. / Saturday: 8 a.m.-7:30 p.m. 

CASA BELGA 

Restaurant Bar. 

Jr. Azangaro 254, Cercado de Lima. 

Monday to Wednesday: 12 noon-6 p.m. / Thursday to Saturday: 

12 noon-9 p.m. 

ESTADIO FUTBOL CLUB 

Restaurant Bar. 

Jiron de la Union 1047, Cercado de Lima. 

Monday to Thursday: 12:15 p.m.-12:15 a.m. / Friday to Saturday: 

12:15 p.m.-2:45 a.m. / Sunday: 12:15-5 p.m. 

9BARES 

Cafeteria. 

Jr. Ica 281, interior 102, Cercado de Lima. 

Monday to Saturday: 8 a.m.-10 p.m. 


Raul Garcia 

/31

RESORTS 

Guide to Lima 

Resorts 

By 

Paola Miglio 

MIRAFLORES 

CULTURe 

In Miraflores culture is found in the streets. This old 

and residential neighbourhood has today become an 

important commercial centre as well, in which surviving 

old-style houses are interspersed with modern buildings. It 

is perfect for walking around and enjoying the sea breeze 

on the promenade. 

MUSEO DE SITIO HUACA PUCLLANA 

An archaeological site belonging to the Lima Culture (200- 

700 A.D.) It was built as a series of pyramids, open spaces 

and courtyards made from mud bricks. Today it is the 

subject of study and visitors are allowed in it. There is a 

site museum and a beautiful restaurant with a view of the 

Huaca Pucllana. 

General Borgoño block 8, Miraflores. 

Wednesday to Monday: 9 a.m.-5 p.m. / Wednesday and 

Sunday: 7 p.m.-10 p.m. 

CENTRO CULTURAL RICARDO PALMA 

A gallery with a library, exhibitions, theatre, cinema and 

cultural exchanges. 

Av. Larco 770, Miraflores. 


PARQUES CENTRAL AND KENNEDY 

These parks are right in the centre of Miraflores, 

surrounding the Virgen Milagrosa Church and adjacent 

to Av. Diagonal and Av. Larco. Artists gather here in the 

afternoons, offering their paintings for sale. Craftsmen 

and antiquaries occupy the small plaza and sweets and 

sandwiches can be bought from well-run stalls. This is also 

the place for small concerts and fairs. 

THE PROMENADE, PARQUE DEL AMOR AND PARQUE 

SALAZAR 

The promenade in Miraflores is one of the most popular 

public spaces in the district. It has picnic areas, playing fields 

and adventure sports (hang gliding), cafes that look out 

over the sea and a shopping centre. Furthermore, its main 

parks such as Parque del Amor (Love Park), —which has 

a sculpture called El beso by Victor Delfin and inscriptions 

by Peru's principal poets— and Parque Salazar, host 

cultural activities at the weekend as well as an annual book 

fair. On the promenade you can also appreciate El tiempo 

(or monstruo) by Jose Tola, an impressive sculpture from 

one of Peru's best contemporary artists; Amarre, by Lima 

sculptor Sonia Prager, adjacent to the Bajada Balta; and 

Intihuatana by Fernando de Szyzslo, together with one of 

Marcelo Wong's iconic works near to Villena Bridge. 

CASA MUSEO RICARDO PALMA 

The former home of Peruvian writer Ricardo Palma. Its 

original furniture and the writer's personal possessions 

remain in place. 

General Belisario Suarez 189, Miraflores. 

Monday to Friday: 9:15 a.m.-12:45 p.m. and 2:30 p.m.-4:45 

p.m. 

MUSEO AMANO 

Museum of pre-Columbian textiles: More than 400 items 

of textiles on show. 

Retiro 160, Miraflores. 


GALERIA LUIS MIRO QUESADA GARLAND 

One of the most regular venues with the greatest variety 

of exhibitions. 



BOOKSHOPS 

EL VIRREY 

Bolognesi 510, Miraflores. 

Monday to Saturday: 9 a.m.-8 p.m. / 

Sundays: 11:7 a.m.-7 p.m. 

IBERO 

Corner of Bajada Balta and Berlin, and Av. Comandante 

Espinar 840, Miraflores 

Lunes a sabado: 10 a.m.-9 p.m. / 

Sundays: 12 noon-8 p.m. 

FONDO DE CULTURA ECONOMICA 

Berlin 238, Miraflores. 



Intihuatana, 

a sculpture by 

Fernando de Szyszlo 

and the view from 

the promenade in 

Miraflores. 

/33

RESORTS 

Above: 

Bar of Maido 

Restaurant. 

Below: 

La Lucha 

sandwich bar. 

Gastronomy 

and nightlife 

RAFAEL 

Cuisine d'auteur from Chef Rafael 

Osterling. Bar and restaurant. In 

50th place in Latin America’s 50 

Best Restaurants sponsored by San 

Pellegrino and Acqua Panna. 

San Martin 300, Miraflores. 


Monday to Friday: 1:30 p.m.-3 p.m. 

/ Monday to Wednesday: 8 p.m.-11 

p.m. / Thursday to Saturday: 8 p.m.- 

00:00 

CENTRAL 

Cuisine d'auteur from Chef Virgilio Martinez. First 

place in Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants 

sponsored by San Pellegrino and Acqua Panna, 

and 4th place in the world list. 

Santa Isabel 376, Miraflores. 


Monday to Friday: 1 p.m.-3:30 p.m. and 7 p.m.-11 

p.m. 

MAIDO 

Japanese and nikkei cuisine by Chef 

Mitsuharu Tsumura. 5th place in 

Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants 

sponsored by San Pellegrino and 

Acqua Panna, and 44th place in the 

world list. 

San Martin 399, Miraflores. 


Monday to Saturday: 12 noon-4 p.m. 

and 7:30 p.m.-11 p.m. / Sunday: 

12:30 p.m.-4 p.m. 

LA MAR 

Fish and shellfish - belongs to the 

Acurio Group. 12th place in Latin 

America’s 50 Best Restaurants 


Acqua Panna. 

La Mar 770, Miraflores. 


Every day: 12 noon-5 p.m. 

Maido 

COSTANERA 700 

Fish, shellfish and Japanese cuisine 

by chef Yaquir Sato. 

Av. Del Ejercito 421, Miraflores. 


Monday to Saturday: 12 noon-11 

p.m. / Sundays and bank holidays: 

12 noon-5 p.m. 

PERUPA’TI 

Food bar, coffee, bread and 

sandwiches, sweets, beer and 

cocktails, gourmet and María 

Daplacer handicrafts store. 

Av. Armendariz 546, Miraflores. 


Every day: 8 a.m.-11 p.m. 

EL PAN DE LA CHOLA 

Artisanal bread, breakfasts, 

sandwiches and coffee. 

Av. La Mar 918, Miraflores. 

Tuesdays to Saturdays: 8 a.m.-10 

p.m. / Sunday: 8 a.m.-3 p.m. 

LA LUCHA 

Sandwiches, juice and coffee. 

Av. Diagonal 308, Miraflores. 

Sunday to Thursday: 8 a.m.-1 a.m. / 

Friday and Saturday: 8 a.m.-3 a.m. 

CAFE A BISTRO 

Salads, meat, breakfasts and one 

of the best hamburgers in Lima. 

Artisanal style. 

Av. Del Ejercito 2193, Miraflores. 



and 7 p.m.-11 p.m. / Sunday: 8 a.m.- 

4 p.m. 

FIESTA 

Restaurant serving the cuisine of 

Chiclayo, by Hector Solis. 31st 

place in Latin America’s 50 Best 

Restaurants by San Pellegrino and 

Acqua Panna. 

Av. Reducto 1278, Miraflores. 


Monday to Saturday: 12:30 p.m.-11 

p.m. / Sundays: 12:30 p.m.-4 p.m. 


NUEVO MUNDO DRAFT BAR 



Sunday to Thursday: 12:30 p.m.-1 

a.m. / Fridays and Saturdays: 12:30 

p.m.-3 a.m. 

CAFE BAR HABANA 

Manuel Bonilla 101, Miraflores. 


Monday to Saturday: 6 p.m.-3 a.m. 

BONUS TRACK 

SURQUILLO 

LA PICANTERIA 

Picanteria serving fish and shellfish, 

by Hector Solis. 36th place in Latin 

America’s 50 Best Restaurants by San 


Santa Rosa 388, on the corner of 

Gonzalez Prada, Surquillo. 


Tuesday to Sunday: 10:30 a.m.-5 p.m. 

AL TOKE PEZ 

Fish and shellfish bar. 

Av. Angamos 886, Surquillo. 

Tuesday to Sunday: 12:30 p.m.-3 p.m. 

MARKETS AND ORGANIC PRODUCE 

FAIRS. 

Important sources of the freshest fish 

and shellfish, fruit and vegetables from 

all over the country (see info graph). 

Shopping 

Design, books, handicrafts, interior 

decoration and practical works of art. 

Miraflores is one of the city's important 

retail centres where you can find just 

about everything. 

PHILOMENA BY MICAELA LLOSA 

Clothes for women by independent 

designers, made from local materials. 

Enrique Meiggs 141, Miraflores. 

Telephones: 243-0403 / 372-3255 

Monday to Saturday: 11:30 a.m.-8 

p.m. 

LORENA PESTANA 

Designer jewellery. 

General Borgoño 770, Miraflores. 


Monday to Saturday: 11:30 a.m.-8 p.m. 

PECA JOIAS 

Jose Galvez 483, Miraflores. 

Designer jewellery in silver. 


Monday to Saturday: 11:30 a.m.-8 

p.m. 

JALLPA NINA 

Unique decorative and practical 

ceramics. 

Federico Villarreal 290, Miraflores. 


Monday to Saturday: 9:8 a.m.-5 p.m. 

EL MUNDO DEL PAPEL 

Design, illustration, paper, printing, 

transcription. 

28 de Julio 552, Miraflores. 


Monday to Friday: 12 noon-8 p.m. / 

Saturday: 3 p.m.-8 p.m. 

HANDICRAFTS 

Inca markets: Handicrafts from all over 

Peru. Textiles, practical items, silver 

jewellery, paintings, prints, leather, 

cotton goods. 

Av. Petit Thouars block 52, Miraflores. 

Every day: 9:30 a.m.-8 p.m. 

LARCOMAR MALL 

One of the main shopping centres, 

which contains stores selling 

international brands and work from 

local designers, as well as restaurants 

and a food court. 

Malecon de la Reserva 610, Miraflores. 


LAMA 

Clothes and designer items. 

Jr. Gonzalez Prada 381, Miraflores. 


ANDREA LLOSA 

Clothing from designer Andrea Llosa. 

Elias Aguirre 1205, Miraflores. 


Monday to Friday: 11:30 a.m.-8 p.m. / 

Saturday: 11:8 a.m.-7 p.m. 



ANTIQUITIES IN MIRAFLORES 

Miraflores has many antique shops 

selling unique items. Most can be 

found on Av. La Paz, near to its 

junction with Av. Ricardo Palma. 

The area is quiet so you can walk 

around the shops in a morning. 

They open every day, including 

Saturdays, from the morning 

onwards. 


Above: 

Gourmet food 

in Perupa`ti and 

handicrafts in 

Miraflores. 

Below: 

Larcomar Mall

RESORTS 


Above: 

Bajada de los Baños. 

Left: 

Sunset from the 

promenade in 

Barranco. 

Right: 

Parque Municipal 

of Barranco. 

BARRANCO 

A district of poets and writers, singers and celebration, 

Barranco is one of the most famous parts of Lima, a cultural 

district where modernity and tradition exist side by side. 

CULTURE AND PUBLIC SPACES 

PARQUE MUNICIPAL 

The district's enchantingly beautiful central park is surrounded 

by old houses, the library, the town hall and the Santisima Cruz 

church. In the middle of this space is a statue of a danaide on 

a lake surrounded by other marble sculptures. The Barberini 

candelabrum is nearby, together with angels sculpted in 

Carrara marble. In the middle is a type of pergola used for plays, 

exhibitions, concerts and other cultural activities. 

PUENTE DE LOS SUSPIROS 

Built in 1876 to join the two sides of the gully and permit access 

between Ayacucho and La Ermita streets. It has been restored 

and its rustic beauty and romance have inspired composers 

and writers such as Chabuca Granda, who captured its magic 

in the waltz El Puente de los Suspiros in 1960. 

LA ERMITA 

A small chapel used by fishermen and travellers. It is built from 

adobe and quincha and was erected in the middle of the 18th 



Century, by a baker called Caicedo, whose wife was cured 

through the cross that is worshipped there. It is reached by 

crossing the Bridge of Sighs. 

THE PROMENADE 

Running the length of Barranco is a quiet and peaceful 

promenade, with small parks and shared spaces, such as 

Paseo Saenz Peña. You often see people strolling along, 

perhaps resting in its alcoves, and it also has an impressive 

view of the sea. 

BAJADA DE LOS BAÑOS 

The road that leads to the beach from Barranco. It is cobbled 

and still preserves the old houses —some now restored— built 

at the beginning of the 20th Century as beach houses. 

GALERIA LUCIA DE LA PUENTE 

Exhibitions of contemporary art. 

Paseo Saenz Peña 206-A, Barranco. 


GALERIA 80M2 

Malecon Pazos 253, Barranco. 


CENTRO COLICH 

Jr. Colina 110, Barranco. 


GALERIA DELBARRIO 

Bernardino Cruz 148, Chorrillos. 


MUSEO DE ARTE 

CONTEMPORANEO DE LIMA 

Permanent exhibition by 

contemporary artists and travelling 

exhibitions both Peruvian and 

foreign. 

Av. Miguel Grau 1511, Barranco. 


CENTRO CULTURAL JUAN PARRA 

DEL RIEGO 

Theatre and exhibitions. 

Av. Pedro de Osma 135, Barranco. 


MATE-MUSEO MARIO TESTINO 



MUSEO PEDRO DE OSMA 



TRAM RIDE 

Travels the first five blocks of Av. 

Pedro de Osma de Barranco. There 

and back. 


MATE-Museo Mario Testino 

LA COLMENA 

Ice creams, flowers, cafe, restaurant 

and, shortly, bookshop. 

Av. Prolongacion San Martin 131, 

Barranco. 


LA NOCHE 

A classic venue for concerts, 

exhibitions and plays. 

Pasaje Sanchez Carrion 199, 

Barranco 


LA LIBRE 

A bookshop that opened just over 

a year ago and encourages cultural 

interchange with alternative titles and 

unusual editions. 

Av. San Martin 144, Barranco. 

Tuesday to Sunday: 12 noon-9 p.m. 

GASTRONOMY 

Barranco has become an 

important gastronomic centre 

within Lima. New places open 

here every year, from small 

cafes and artisanal ice cream 

shops to bistros serving cuisine 

d'auteur and taverns offering 

home-made creole food. 

ISOLINA 

Specialising in home-made creole dishes. 

Av. Corner of Prolongacion San Martin 101 

with Domeyer, Barranco 


Tuesdays to Saturdays: 12 noon.-00:00 

Mondays: 12 noon-5 p.m. 

Sundays and bank holidays: 12 noon-5 p.m. 

LA CREM DE LA CREM 

Artisanal ice cream and home-made 

puddings. 

Parque Municipal de Barranco 109. 


Mondays to Sundays: 12 noon-10 p.m. 

MOLLE CAFE Y BISTRO 

An interesting example of cuisine d'auteur from 

chef Matias Cilloniz. 

Av. Prolongacion San Martin 131, Barranco. 


Breakfast on Mondays, Wednesdays, 

Thursdays and Fridays: 9 a.m.-11 a.m. 

Lunch on Mondays, Wednesdays, Thursdays 

and Fridays: 12:30 p.m.-3 p.m. 

Dinner on Wednesdays, Thursdays, Fridays 

and Saturdays: 7:30 p.m.-10 p.m. 

Brunch on Saturdays and Sundays: 

9 a.m.-3 p.m. 

SIBARIS 

Healthy home-cooked food. Stews made by 

Francesco de Sanctis and an interesting bar 

run by Thalia Talavera. 

Jr. 28 de Julio 206-B, Barranco. 


Tuesdays to Saturdays: 11 a.m.-2 a.m. 

Above: 

Museo Pedro 

de Osma. 

Left: 

MATE-Museo 

Mario Testino. 

Right: 

Fig salad, Molle 

Cafe y Bistro. 


Estudio Famas 

/37

RESORTS 

Barra 55. 

Dedalo. 

Canta Rana Cebiche 

Restaurant. 


Gihan Tubbeh 


HELADERIA BLU 

Artisanal ice cream. 

Jr. 28 de Julio 202, Barranco. 


Tuesdays to Sundays: 12 noon-10 

p.m. 

TOSTADURIA BISETTI 

A cafe that uses important varietals 

of coffee of different origins. Artisanal 

puddings. 




BARRAMAR 

Rice dishes and cebiches. Good 

whitebait on bread. 

Corner of Jr. 28 de Julio and Grau. 



AMOR AMAR 

Fish and shellfish. 

Garcia y Garcia 175, Barranco. 


Monday to Saturday: 12:30 p.m.-4 

p.m. and de 8 p.m.-11 p.m. / Sunday: 

12:30 p.m.-5 p.m. 

CANTA RANA 


Genova 101, Barranco. 



BARRA 55 

Canapes and bar specialising in gin. 

Av. 28 de Julio 206 D, Barranco. 

Tuesdays to Thursdays: 7 p.m.-1 

a.m. / Fridays and Saturdays: 9 p.m.- 

30 a.m. 

AYAHUASCA RESTOBAR 

Bar and canapes. 

Av. Prolongacion San Martin 130, 

Barranco. 


BAR PICAS 

Bar and canapes. 

Bajada de Baños 340, Barranco. 



LA NOCHE 

Classic concert venue with 

bohemian bar. 

Pasaje Sanchez Carrion 199, 

Barranco. 



BAR JUANITO 

A long-established bar. Noted for its 

sandwiches and cau cau. 

Av. Grau 270, Barranco. 

Monday to Saturday: 11 a.m.-2.30 

a.m. 

BONUS TRACK 

CHORRILLOS 

EL HORNERO 

Meat and grills. 

Malecon Almirante Grau 983, 

Chorrillos. 


Monday to Friday: 12 noon-00:00 / 

Sundays: 12 noon-11:30 p.m. 

SONIA 


Agustin Lozano La Rosa 173, 

Chorrillos. 



EMILIO Y GLADYS 

Fish and shellfish, the speciality is 

mangrove scallops when in season. 

Daniel Velez 197, Chorrillos. 


SHOPPING 

A bohemian district with many 

alternative design and decoration 

emporia. 

CLANDESTINA 



Monday to Saturday: 11 a.m.- 7 p.m. 

PUNA 



Tuesday to Sunday: 11 a.m.- 8 p.m. 

PLANTIQUE 

Decoration and design store with plants 

and botanical items. 



VERNACULA 

Fashion, decoration and cafe. 

Ayacucho 269, Barranco. 


DEDALO 

Designer items, practical art from 

contemporary Peruvian artists, 

ceramics, handicrafts and cafe. 

Paseo Saenz Peña 295, Barranco. 

Monday to Saturday: 10 a.m.- 10 p.m. / 


OJO DE PEZ 

Designer items. 



LAS PALLAS 

Handicrafts and popular art. 

Cajamarca 212, Barranco. 


CUATRO EN UN BAUL 

Designer items, decoration. 

Jr. Martinez de Pinillos 105, Barranco. 


Martes a domingo: 10 a.m.-8 p.m. 

SAN ISIDRO 

The road that links the coastal districts of San Isidro, 

Miraflores, Barranco and Chorrillos is full of art and culture. 

It encompasses the main theatres and galleries, as well as 

public and environmental spaces. 

culture and public spaces 

PARQUE EL OLIVAR 

This park is considered a national monument and dates 

from the colonial era when, in 1560, the first olive trees were 

brought from Spain. The plantation had as many as 2800 

trees. Nowadays there are around 1600. The park is large 

and peaceful, the habitat of important flora and fauna. Next 

to the Casa de la Cultura you can see an old olive press and 

the oldest of the olive trees. 

It extends from Av. Santa Cruz up to Paz Soldan Park, 

flanked by Av. Conquistadores and Antero Aspillaga. 

Entry is free and it is open twenty four hours a day, every day. 

MUSEO MARINA NUÑEZ DEL PRADO 

Home of sculptress Marina Nuñez del Prado Viscarra (La 

Paz, Bolivia, 1910). In the neo-colonial style, the house was 

bought by her in 1973 and converted into her workshop; 

today it is a museum that contains much of her work. It 

was the first house in El Olivar to be declared a National 

Monument. 

Antero Aspillaga 300, San Isidro. 


CASA DE LA CULTURA 

The old town hall has been converted into the Casa de la 

Cultura, venue for artistic activities, recitals, exhibitions and 

art workshops. Today it is part of the cultural, environmental 

and tourism circuit. 

La Republica 455, San Isidro. 

Monday to Friday: 9 a.m.-6 p.m. 

CENTRO CULTURAL DE LA UNIVERSIDAD CATOLICA 

An interesting and extensive cultural space that includes 

a gallery, theatre, cinema, café and bookshop. Lima Film 

Festival is held here every year, as well as workshops and 

conferences. 

Av. Camino Real 1075, San Isidro. 

www.centroculturalpucp.com. 

SITIO ARQUEOLOGICO HUALLAMARCA 

Known as the sugar loaf, this site dates from pre-Inca 

times. It is a truncated pyramid and is in an excellent state 

of preservation. Construction started at the end of the 

Formative Stage and beginning of the Lima Culture (200 

B.C.) It was also used as a cemetery for various groups until 

the arrival of the Incas. It has a site museum. 

Corner of Av. El Rosario and Av. Nicolas de Rivera 201, San 

Isidro. 

Wednesday to Sunday: 9 a.m.-5 p.m. 

LIBRERIA SUR 

Av. Pardo y Aliaga 683, San Isidro. 


LIBRERIA COMMUNITAS 

Av. 2 de Mayo 1690, San Isidro. 

Monday to Saturday: 8:30 a.m.-8:30 p.m. 



Above: 

Parque El Olivar. 

Below: 

Museo Marina Nuñez 

del Prado. 

/39

RESORTS 

Clandestina 

store. 

District 

of San Isidro. 

Mariana Lengua 

Fernando Lopez 

Gastronomy and 

nightlife 

San Isidro contains some of the most 

traditional places in which to enjoy 

Peruvian food. From classic cafés to 

restaurants included in The World’s 50 

Best Restaurants sponsored by San 

Pellegrino and Acqua Panna. Here are 

the best. 

LA BONBONNIERE 

Classic with French influence, good 

cakes and pastries and breakfasts. 

Burgos 415, San Isidro. 


Tuesdays to Saturdays: 8 a.m.-11 p.m. / 


SYMPOSIUM 

Chosen as the best Italian restaurant in 

the city in the Summum awards. 

Santa Luisa 122, San Isidro. 


Monday to Saturday: 12:30 p.m.-3:30 

p.m. and 7:30 p.m.-11:30 p.m. 

CONVIVIUM 

An Italian restaurant, but less formal 

than the previous one. Open from 

breakfast time and has a good wine 

cellar. 

Santa Luisa 110-120, San Isidro. 


Monday to Saturday: 8 a.m.-00:00 / 

Sunday: 8:a.m.- 5 p.m. 

MALABAR 

One of the most delicious restaurants 

and bars in Lima. Under the command 

of Chef Pedro Miguel Schiaffino. 

Product-themed dishes and cuisine 

d'auteur. 20th place in Latin America’s 

50 Best Restaurants sponsored by San 


Telephone: 440-5200 / 440-5300 . 

Av. Camino Real 101, San Isidro. 

Monday to Saturday: 12:30 p.m.-3:30 

p.m. and 7:30 p.m.-11 p.m. 

CASA MOREYRA / ASTRID & 

GASTON 

Cuisine d'auteur by renowned chef 

Gaston Acurio and confectionary 

expert Astrid Gutsche. 3rd place in 

Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants 


Acqua Panna, and 14th in the world. 

Av. Paz Soldan 290, San Isidro. 


Mondays to Saturdays: 1 p.m.-2.30 

p.m. y 7:30 p.m.9.30 p.m. 

Sundays: 1 p.m.-4 p.m. 

MARAS Y SALAR 

Restaurant and bar located in the 

Westin Hotel. Cuisine d'auteur by Chef 

Rafael Piqueras. 

The Westin Lima Hotel & Convention 

Center, corner of Las Begonias and 

Amador Merino Reyna, San Isidro. 


Monday to Friday: 12 noon - 4 p.m. and 

7 p.m.- 00:00 / Saturday: 7 p.m.-00:00 

OSAKA 

Seafood and nikkei cuisine. 

Av. Pardo y Aliaga 660, San Isidro. 


Monday to Saturday: 12:30 p.m.-4 p.m. 

and 7:30 p.m.-00:00 / Sundays and 

holidays: 12:30 p.m.-5 p.m. 

TANTA 

Cafe, bar, restaurant. 

Pancho Fierro 115, San Isidro. 


Monday to Saturday: 8 a.m.-00:00 / 

Sundays from 8 a.m.-10 p.m. 

MIGUEL DASSO 

A concentration of cafeterias, 

restaurants and delicatessens. Best on 

a Sunday when the Piensa Verde fair 

is held. 

SAN ISIDRO MARKET 

Important source of the freshest fish 

and shellfish, fruit and vegetables from 

all over the country (see 'Markets'). 

Av. Del Ejercito 1551, San Isidro 

SHOPPING 

Some designer clothes and 

accessories stores can be found in 

San Isidro. Peruvian artists and great 

creativity. 

AV. CONQUISTADORES 

Runs from the Gutierrez Roundabout 

to Virgen del Pilar church. It is 

interesting to go on foot and discover 

the shops and cafes all along this 

street. There are shops specialising 

in independent designs and leather 

shoes and handbags, such as 

Clandestina and Mascarpone 

Originale, silver jewellery by Claudia 

Lira, shoes by Viviane Fiedler and 

Vanessa Dellepiane, and other 

international brands. 

CLANDESTINA 

Av. Conquistadores 392, San Isidro. 

Monday to Friday: 10 a.m.- 8 p.m. / 

Saturday: 11 a.m.-7 p.m. 

VIVIANE FIEDLER 



Saturday 11 a.m.-6 p.m. 

MASCARPONE ORIGINALE 



Saturday 11:8 a.m.-6 p.m. 

CLAUDIA LIRA 




VANESSA DELLEPIANE 

Conde de la Monclova 315, San Isidro, 

one block from Av. Conquistadores. 



ILARIA 

Jewellery and decorative silver items. 

The main store is in San Isidro. 

Av. Dos de Mayo 308, San Isidro. 

Monday to Saturday: 10 a.m.-7:30 p.m. 

SIRANA 

Designer clothes for women. Shoes 

and accessories. 

Miguel Dasso 120, San Isidro. 


Saturday: 11 a.m.-7 p.m. 

/41

CALLAO 

THE CONSTITUTIONAL 

PROVINCE OF CALLAO IS 

15 KILOMETRES FROM 

THE CENTRE OF LIMA.ITS 

LOCATION AND PORT, ONE 

OF THE MOST IMPORTANT 

IN AMERICA, MAKE THIS 

A COMMERCIAL TOWN; 

IT WAS A STRATEGIC 

PLACE FOR DEFENDING 

THE VICEROYALTY AND 

THEN THE COUNTRY'S 

INDEPENDENCE AND IN THE 

FIGHT AGAINST PIRATES. 

IT IS ALSO A FISHING 

PORT AND AN ATTRACTIVE 

DESTINATION FOR WATER 

SPORTS ENTHUSIASTS, 

LOVERS OF SEAFOOD AND 

THOSE SEEKING BOTH 

NEW AND TRADITIONAL 

DESTINATIONS WITHIN 

LIMA. 

Callao 

A quick guide 

By 

Iñigo Maneiro 

Photos 


Thanks to Iniciativa 

Fugaz, Jose Galvez 

Passage, in the centre 

of Callao, now contains 

restaurants and art 

galleries. 

Archaeological sites 

Its archaeology forms part of its geography and 

extends beyond Callao itself to parts of Ventanilla and 

San Martin de Porres. The area was a natural desert 

with seasonal vegetation called 'lomas' covering the 

summits of the hills. 

The first human inhabitants lived here ten thousand 

years ago, with Chivatero in the District of Ventanilla 

as the main population centre. Middens and heaps of 

discarded shells remain from this era. These groups 

occupied the seashore and islands off the coast; 

cemeteries have been found on San Lorenzo Island. 

COMPLEJO EL PARAISO 

Built four thousand years old, the complex consists 

of various burial mounds or huacas, such as El 

Paraiso or Pampa de los Perros. It is on the municipal 

boundary between Ventanilla and San Martin de 

Porres Districts. 

CERRO CULEBRAS 

Dating from the Lima Culture (200 to 750 A.D.), it covers 

35 hectares and contains a polychromatic mural 28 

metres long. 

TAMBO CERRO RESPIRO 

Located on the old Oquendo Estate, it dates from the 

Colli period, until the arrival of the Inca Empire. 

Architecture and history 

When Peru's capital was moved from Jauja to Lima during 

the Spanish Conquest, Callao became an important port 

and commercial centre, one of the most important of the 

viceregal period. It played a decisive role in the struggle 

for independence and against corsairs and pirates. 

Urban architecture has been enriched by successive 

waves of immigrants to Peru: Japanese, Germans, 

Chinese and Italians. Part of this influence can be seen in 

different buildings. Later, different neighbourhoods were 

built but it is in its seaside resort that Callao's greatest 

historical and architectural wealth can be found: 

/43

CALLAO 

Left: 

Cathedral Church 

of Callao. 

Right: 

Real Felipe 

fortress. 

Below: 

Main Square 

of La Punta. 

LA PUNTA: 

THE DISTRICT WITH 

THE STRONGEST 

PERSONALITY, IS SO 

CALLED BECAUSE 

OF ITS SHAPE. THE 

DISTRICT CONTAINS A 

NUMBER OF THE MOST 

IMPORTANT SPORTS 

CLUBS (REGATAS 

UNION, LA PUNTA, 

CIRCOLO SPORTIVO 

ITALIANO, ETC.) 

Churches 

THE CATHEDRAL 

Built by Antonio Dañino in 1833.It is in the Neoclassical 

style, with a single nave. The niches on its façade contain 

statues of St. Simon and St. Jude Thaddeus. 

Jr. Constitucion 387 Callao. 

Opening times: when Mass is being said. 

Cost: free of charge. 

www.diocesisdelcallao.org. 

VIRGEN DEL CARMEN DE LA LEGUA 

In the 17th Century an image of Our Lady of Carmel 

was sent from Spain to Peru. It was going to be taken 

to the centre of Lima but the donkey carrying it stopped 

-according to tradition- half way there and refused to move 

a step further. So a chapel was built to house the image. 

Years later the current Church was built on the site of the 

chapel. The image has many devotees in Callao. 

Junction of Faucett and Colonial Avenues. 



www.parroquiasenoradelcarmen.blogspot.pe. 

INMACULADA CONCEPCION 

(THE LIGHTHOUSE CHURCH) 

This Church was built at the end of the 19th Century and 

it has two towers, an unusual feature among Callao's 

churches, due to the effects of earthquakes. Its oil paintings 

and image of Our Lord of Consolation are noteworthy. 

Jr. Uruguay 340. 



www.iglesiatemplofaro.blogspot.pe. 

SAN JUAN BOSCO 

Also built at the end of the 19th Century, this Church has 

three naves and a fine façade with Italian style. 

Calle Garcia Calderon 348. 



SAN JOSE 

This Church was built in Bellavista by Viceroy Manso de 

Velasco, and served for many years as Callao's cathedral. 

Jr. Bolognesi 440, Bellavista. 



Monuments 

FORTALEZA O CASTILLO DEL REAL FELIPE 

It is one of the most representative constructions in Callao 

and was built in 1747 during the government of Viceroy 

Manso de Velasco. It had a vital role in the struggle for 

independence and in defending the city against pirates. 

It was named in honour of the Spanish King Philip the 5th. 

Plaza de la Independencia. 

Opening times: from Monday to Sunday, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. 

Cost: foreigners 12 soles, Peruvian adults 6 soles and 

children 2 soles. 

CASA RONALD 

Named after its proprietor Guillermo Ronald, this important 

English-style building was finished in 1928 and has recently 

been restored. 

Corner of Constitucion and Independencia. 

Opening times: free. 


www.guillermoronald.com. 

Public squares 

MIGUEL GRAU 

The main square of the district. Next to the quay and Paseo 

Darsena. The meeting point for trips to the Palomino 

Islands. 

PLAZA DE ARMAS DE LA PUNTA 

Site of the municipality and Malecon Pardo. Popular with 

Callao residents. 

Corner of Bolognesi and Medina. 

BOLOGNESI 

One of the most important in Callao. It contains an 

ornamental fountain and a statue of national hero 

Francisco Bolognesi. 

Block 5 of Avenida Saenz Peña. 

DE LA INDEPENDENCIA 

Opposite the Fortaleza del Real Felipe, this square is 

notable for its gardens. It has a bronze fountain with 

allegorical representations of maritime commerce. 

Av. Saenz Peña block 1. 

Museums 

REAL FELIPE 

Exhibition of uniforms, arms and equipment used by the 

Peruvian Army. The fortress is one of the best examples of 

military architecture in South America. 

Plaza de la Independencia. 

Opening times: from Monday to Sunday, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. 

Cost: foreigners 12 soles, Peruvian adults: 6 soles and 

children 2 soles. 

NAVAL 

Arms, historic documents, paintings, photographs ad 

many other exhibits on the history of the Peruvian Navy. 

The museum has thematic galleries for the Amazon, the 

Andean plateau and the Antarctic, among others. It is the 

most comprehensive military museum in the country. 

Av. Jorge Chavez 123. Historic Centre. 

Opening times: Tuesday to Sunday from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. 

Cost: Adults 3 soles and children 2 soles. 

www.museonaval.com.pe. 

CHUCUITO: 

FOUNDED BY ITALIAN 

IMMIGRANTS, ITS 

BUILDINGS DATE FROM 

THE 19TH AND 20TH 

CENTURIES; SOME ARE 

MADE FROM WOOD OR 

MUD-BRICKS PAINTED 

IN BRIGHT COLOURS 

Above: 

Quay on 

Plaza Grau. 

Below: 

Naval Museum. 

/45

CALLAO 

Restaurants, 

bars and others 

Callao's maritime personality and past waves of migration 

have influenced the port's gastronomy, but seafood is 

always the principal ingredient. According to food writer 

Ignacio Medina, these are some of the best places to eat 

in Callao. 

Above: 

Rovira 

Restaurant. 

Below: 

Don Giuseppe 

Restaurant. 

Following page: 

Left: 

Mural on Calle 

Independencia. 

Above: 

Rear of the Edificio 

Ronald. 

Below: 

Galleries forming part of 

the Iniciativa Fugaz. 

SUBMARINO ABTAO 

The submarine of the same name. Exhibition of charts and 

other items used on board. 

Avenida Jorge Chavez 120-A. 

Opening times: Tuesday to Sunday 

from 9:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. 

Cost: 10 soles, children under 5 free of charge. 

www.submarinoabtao.com. 

FIRE SERVICE 

An exhibition of equipment, instruments, vehicles and 

uniforms used by the first firemen in Callao. 

Avenida Alejandro Granda block 3. 

Opening times: Monday to Saturday from 9 a.m. to 5p.m. 


Make a reservation beforehand 429-0318. 

Open air 

ISLAS PALOMINO 

Boat trip to the Palomino, Cavinza, El Fronton and San 

Lorenzo Islands. Showing the islands' wealth of animal life: 

seals, Humboldt Penguins and dozens of species of birds. 

Port of Callao. 

Opening times: 

Friday, Saturday and Sunday. 

Cost: around 100 soles. 

www.tourmarinocallao.com. 

MATEO 

Restaurant. 

Jr. Constitucion 286. 

www.cevicheriamateo.com. 

ROVIRA 

Restaurant. 

Daniel Nieto 195. 

KUMAR 

Restaurant. 

Benavides 5429, 

urbanizacion Parque 

Industrial, Callao. 

EL COLORADO 

Restaurant. 

Malecon Figueredo 671, 

Chucuito. 

DON GIUSEPPE 

Restaurant. 

Grau Nº 30, La Punta. 

EL RINCON DE 

SANTIAGO 

Small diner, huarique. 

Jr. Montezuma 847, 

Callao. 

MECHITA 


Jr. Castilla 344, Callao. 

MAR Y SOL 


Garcia Calderon 440, 

Callao centre. 

DONDEPP 


Chanchamayo 231, 

Chucuito. 

MERCADO 

MISTURA LA PUNTA 

PRODUCE MARKET. 

Main Square, La Punta. 

The first Saturday of each 

month. 

MERCADO JANOO LO 

CENTRAL MARKET. 

Entrance on Saenz Peña. 

From 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. 

I 

Iniciativa Fugaz 

A private initiative to restore some of the emblematic 

parts of Callao. It involves art, culture, neighbourhood 

life, recreation and visitors near to the Main Square. 

It includes: 

The Corriente Alterna school of photography. 

Galleries: Gonzalez y Gonzalez, Evolucion por Fugaz, 

Entes y Pesimo, Amazonica and Revolver. 

Restaurants: Renzo Garibaldi Osso, Osaka, Beatriz, 

Veggie Pizza and Cafe D’Sala. 

Boutiques: Balkanica. 

/47

PROGRAMMES 

PROGRAM FULL DAY 

CYCLING AND 

GASTRONOMY 

PROGRAMME 

• Cycle tour from Larcomar to the fish 

market in Chorrillos. Includes a visit to 

the Puente de los Suspiros in Barranco. 

• Visit to La Herradura Beach. 

• Relaxation in local restaurant Juanito to 

sample its traditional sandwiches. 

• Tour starting at Barranco's Main 

Square through different streets in the 

district to see urban art and finishing in 

an organic cake shop. 

• Visit to a cafe or artisanal brewery. 

HALF DAY 

PROGRAMME 

BOHEMIAN 

BARRANCO 

• Walking tour of the District of Barranco. 

Includes a visit to the Main Square 

of Barranco and the emblematic Bridge 

of Sighs. 

• Visit to the MATE, museum of the 

famous Peruvian photographer Mario 

Testino, showing photographs of Princess 

Diana. 

• Visit to Tostaduria Bisetti for a relaxing 

and delicious coffee. 

*Free time to explore other cafés 

and galleries in the area. 

HALF DAY 

PROGRAMME 

HISTORIC 

CENTRE OF LIMA 

• Visit to Lima Cathedral. 

• Tour of the exclusive Casa de 

Aliaga. 

• Visit to the Larco Museum. 

• Panoramic tour of Miraflores. 

Includes a stop at the Parque del 

Amor, with its beautiful view of the 

Costa Verde. 

*Passengers have the option to 

end the tour in the Perupa’ ti food 

market. 

HALF DAY 

PROGRAMME 

CALLAO 

• Tour around the historic monuments 

of Callao. 

• View of the Real Felipe Fortress. 

• Walk around historic Callao 

(urban art). 

HALF DAY 

PROGRAMME 

GASTRONOMIC 

AND 

ARCHAEOLOGICAL 

• Tasting of typical Peruvian fruit at the 

Gran Fruta juice bar. 

• Visit to Mercado Nº 1 de Surquillo 

to see the myriad ingredients used in 

Peruvian cuisine. 

• Visit to Huaca Pucllana. 

• Cookery demonstration at a local 

restaurant. 

TOUR BY NIGHT 

PROGRAMME 

ARCHAEOLOGY 

• Visit to the Larco Museum. 

• Evening tour of Huaca Pucllana. 

• Dinner at the Huaca Pucllana Restaurant, 

opposite the illuminated temple. 

MALI 

• Visit to Lima Museum of Art (MALI). 

• Visit to the Circuito Magico del Agua 

(Parque de la Reserva). 

HALF DAY PROGRAMME 

ORGANIC 

GASTRONOMY 

• Visit to the Eco-market in Miguel Dasso 

in the District of San Isidro, with stops at 

strategic stalls to taste organic food. 

• Brunch at El Pan de la Chola. 

*Only on Sundays 

HALF DAY 

PROGRAMME 

GASTRONOMIC TOUR 

• Visit to a local cafe for breakfast (coffee 

and canapes). 

• Visit to Mercado Nº 1 de Surquillo to see 

the variety of ingredients used in Peruvian 

cooking and to try the products from some 

of the stalls. 

• Demonstration cookery classes and lunch 

at a local restaurant. 

/49

ANCIENT LIMA 

IF YOU PERHAPS THOUGHT 

THAT CUSCO AND THE 

INCAS REPRESENTED 

EVERYTHING ABOUT 

PRE-HISPANIC HISTORY 

IN PERU, YOU COULD 

NOT BE MORE WRONG. 

THE CITY OF LIMA HIDES 

IMPORTANT REMAINS 

FROM THE ANCIENT 

NATIONS THAT INHABITED 

THE LOCAL VALLEYS 

BEFORE THE CHRISTIAN 

ERA. THE FIRST 'LIMEÑOS' 

IRRIGATED LARGE 

VALLEYS, BUILT GREAT 

PYRAMIDS AND WHOLE 

CITIES, SOME OF WHICH 

CAN STILL BE VISITED 

TODAY. 

Ancient Lima 

Pre-Hispanic capital 

By 

Diego Oliver 

Huaca Pucllana, 

an archaeological 

monument that has 

survived the urban 

expansion of Lima. 


/53

ANCIENT LIMA 


Above: 

Carved wooden artefact 

found in Huaca Mateo 

Salado. 

Below: 

One of the excavated 

sectors of the Maranga 

archaeological complex. 

Walter Hupiu 

Nils Castro is a young Peruvian teacher, aged 37 

and a proud founder member of Circulo Ciclista 

Protector de las Huacas, a private initiative 

consisting of artists, archaeologists, designers, 

teachers and actors, whose aim is to encourage the 

use of bicycles as vehicles for recording local heritage. 

“It is also our responsibility. If institutions don’t protect 

them then we have to do so ourselves”, he says. 

On the last Sunday of each month, Nils organises a 

bicycle ride around different Lima huacas, from the 

most popular to those ignored by the bustling city. 

“There are more than five hundred huacas in the city 

of Lima”, he adds enthusiastically like someone with 

many more routes to design. You can take part in the 

trips for free; all you need is a bicycle, two legs and a 

bottle of water. 

Although books on the history of Peru tell us that Lima 

was founded in 1535 by Francisco Pizarro, before 

that time Lima, consisting of the valleys of the rivers 

Chillon, Rimac and Lurin, was a perfect place for the 

development of socially complex cultures. The three 

valleys contain plenty of cultivable land and because 

they are close to the Pacific Ocean with its rich 

biomass, food was plentiful. 

Evidence has been found that the area was occupied 

in the 10th Century B.C., by groups of nomadic or 

semi-nomadic hunter-gatherers. A process known as 

neollithisation began (5000-1800 B.C.), in which these 

family clans began to form small communities, such 

as those found at Cerro Paloma and in the district of 

Chilca, which were strongly dependent on fishing and 

marine resources. 

This process saw the construction of the first public 

architecture, complexes of three buildings arranged 

in a horseshoe shape and having a ritual character, 

like the Huaca Paraiso, recently dated to around 4200 

B.C. 

The historian Jose Canziani Amico explains that the 

transition to the Formative Period (1800-500 B.C.) 

saw a series of important transformations. Plants 

and animals were domesticated, new forms of land 

management were introduced and new knowledge 

and tools acquired, which defined new forms of 

social organisation. These characteristics enabled the 

creation of the first cities in what is known as the Early 

Regional Development Period (500 B.C. - 700 B.C.) 

That was the period in which great strides were made 

in ceramics, textiles and silverware, huge irrigation 

complexes were built, vastly increasing crop yields and 

a new economy was built on the increasing availability 

of surplus production. These new parameters created 

a new statist approach to territory, examples of which 

are the archaeological complexes at Cajamarquilla, 

Pachacamac and Maranga. The latter is particularly 

interesting as it covers 4 square kilometres in the 

heart of the city of Lima and was nothing less than the 

Above: 

The exterior walls of the 

Temple of the Sun were 

painted red; remains of the 

paint can still be seen on 

these walls. 

Below: 

The new Pachacamac Site 

Museum displays the principal 

findings from the site. 

MARANGA 

COVERS 4 SQUARE 

KILOMETRES IN THE 

HEART OF THE CITY 

OF LIMA AND WAS 

NOTHING LESS THAN 

THE CENTRE OF THE 

LIMA CULTURE 

(200 - 600 A.D.) 

BEFORE 1535, 

LIMA WAS 

A PERFECT PLACE 

FOR THE 

DEVELOPMENT OF 

SOCIALLY COMPLEX 

CULTURES 

Walter Hupiu 

centre of the Lima Culture (200 - 600 A.D.) There are 

14 monumental pyramids, 50 smaller buildings with 

ramps, walled dwellings, squares, residential areas, 

storehouses, cemeteries, irrigation canals and other 

items. 

Also there is Pachacamac, undoubtedly the most 

spectacular complex in the region. Like Maranga and 

Cajamarquilla, this complex of 4.6 square kilometres 

was originally built by the Lima Culture, which occupied 

it until the 7th Century, when the Wari (6 00-1100) 

overwhelmed the region bringing with them, among 

other things, their religious influences. According to 

Denisse Pozzi-Escot, director of the Pachacamac 

complex, it was during the Wari occupation that the 

site became an extremely important destination for 

pilgrims, that endured and strengthened during the 

Ychma Culture (1100-1470 A.D.), and then the Incas 

(1470-1532 A.D.) 


/55

ANCIENT LIMA 



Above: 

Huaca Huallamarca or 

Sugar Loaf stands out in the 

middle of urban San Isidro. 

Below: 

Access to the summit of 

the main pyramid of Huaca 

Pucllana, Miraflores. 

Beatrice Velarde 

ITS SIZE AND 

MONUMENTAL 

NATURE SHOW THAT 

IN CERTAIN STAGES 

AN ENORMOUS 

AMOUNT OF WORK 

WAS INVESTED IN 

THIS SITE 

Left: 

Wooden items 

and shells found during 

excavations in Huaca 

Huallamarca. 

Right: 

One of the five 

pyramids still remaining at 

Huaca Mateo Salado. 

Then the Spanish arrived, led by Francisco Pizarro, 

and Lima was founded officially. 

Archaeologist Julio Rucabado, in charge of records 

and collections of the Pachacamac complex, 

imagines the Lima valley in the pre-Hispanic period 

as full of farms and irrigation canals, with two large 

urban centres (Pachacamac and Maranga) at either 

end and smaller settlements scattered between 

them. Examples of the latter being Pucllana, Mateo 

Salado and Huallamarca, sites in an excellent state of 

preservation that have managed against all the odds 

to survive in the middle of a metropolis of 10 million 

inhabitants. 

Throughout the 20th Century Lima experienced 

a demographic explosion, especially after the 

nineteen sixties—when it had fewer than two million 

inhabitants— caused by massive migration from the 

countryside to the city. Since then the city has grown 

rapidly without order or control. New neighbourhoods 

appeared in the desert; rough tracks became paved 

roads; there was greater demand for housing, food 

and services. The city carried everything before it. 

And unfortunately archaeological remains were no 

exception. 

Being an archaeologist in Lima is a heroic calling. They 

fight against the overwhelming urban growth, against 

deficient conservation policies, against the eternal 

lack of money and against an enormous number of 

remains that can certainly not be restored in their 

entirety. However Lima has a number of conservation 

initiatives that are open to the public and included in 

tourist circuits. Pachacamac is one of them and today 

has a refurbished site museum that enables visitors 

to understand better the process of occupation and 

development of the most important religious centre 

on the Andean coast. With illustrative and instructive 

displays, the museum has a collection of offerings 

to the god Pachacamac consisting of ceramics, 

textiles and jewellery from different eras, as well as 

explanations about the cultures that made it famous. 

Huaca Mateo Salado, on the other hand, is a complex 

consisting of five stepped and truncated pyramids 

that functioned as an administrative and ceremonial 

centre for one of the local chieftains —we do not know 

for certain which— of the Ychma Culture.“Its size 

and monumental nature, despite later overbuilding, 

show that in certain stages an enormous amount of 

work was invested in this site, involving the shifting 

of thousands of cubic metres of earth and stones. 

This implies that the site was very important and that 

the governing elites of the day had enough power to 

persuade hundreds of people to work voluntarily on 

the construction of temples, roads and other large 

architectural projects. The Ychmas people did not 

receive “wages”, though the chieftain or priest was 

obliged to provide clothing and food in return for their 

labour”, explains Pedro Espinoza, project director. 

Huaca Pucllana, where night visits were inaugurated a 

short time ago to take advantage of the attractive lighting, 

is much older than Mateo Salado. It was built during the 

later period of the Lima Culture and consists of a main 

pyramid with lower buildings around it made from mud 

bricks. The complex appears to have been abandoned 

and then used as a cemetery by the Ychma. 

Lima also contains three museums that provide a 

more detailed view of Peruvian pre-Hispanic history. 


/57

ANCIENT LIMA 

Museo Larco 

Above: 

Culture gallery at 

the Larco Museum. 

Exhibition of ceramic, 

stone and wooden 

artefacts from different 

pre-Hispanic cultures. 

Below: 

Impressive view of the 

Caral archaeological 

complex. The cultural 

landscape lies next to 

the River Supe and the 

mountain foothills. 

Christopher Kleihege 

182 KM FROM LIMA, 

THE CARAL RUINS 

HAVE BEEN 

DECLARED A WORLD 

HERITAGE SITE BY 

UNESCO AND HAVE 

CHANGED OUR 

CONCEPTION OF THE 

EARLIEST SOCIETIES 

IN AMERICA 

The National Museum of Archaeology, Anthropology and History of Peru is 

the oldest state-run museum, founded in 1826, and covers the history of 

Peru from the beginning of local civilisation until the Republican era. It has 

a huge collection of stone artefacts, ceramics, textiles and silverware from 

the different Peruvian cultures. The Larco Museum, on the other hand, 

founded by Rafael Larco Hoyle in 1926, is housed in a viceregal mansion 

built over a pre-Hispanic pyramid dating from the 7th Century. It contains 

the most comprehensive collection of pre-Hispanic gold and silver objects 

and erotic art, part of a total of more than 45,000 archaeological finds: 

mute testimony to three thousand years of Peruvian history. Finally, the 

Amano Museum displays a unique collection of pre-Hispanic textiles from 

eleven cultures, under modern conservation conditions. 

CARAL: THE OLDEST CIVILISATION IN THE AMERICAS 

Located in the Supe valley, 182 kilometres from the city of Lima, the Caral 

ruins have been declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO and have 

changed our conception of the earliest societies in America. It dates from 

3000 B.C., making it as old as the Mesopotamian (3700 B.C.) or Egyptian 

civilisations (3500 B.C.) and replacing the Olmeca Culture (1200 B.C.) in 

Mexico as the oldest in America. 

The complex consists of numerous pyramids, circular open spaces, 

galleries and dwellings; all the buildings suggest that religious rites were 

frequently practiced. Musical instruments such as flutes, quenas, whistles 

and horns have been found, as well as quipus; objects that speak of a 

complex social organisation. According to the leading expert on Caral, 

Ruth Shady, the city may have been conceived as a great calendar, given 

that each public building was related to one of the deities of the Caral 

pantheon and with a certain star position.

INTERVIEW 

“THE NICE THING ABOUT MALI IS THAT IN A SINGLE 

VISIT YOU CAN SEE MANY EXAMPLES OF PERU'S 

CULTURAL DIVERSITY THROUGH ITS HISTORY AND 

ITS ART. WE ARE A MUSEUM THAT TRIES TO GIVE AN 

INTEGRAL VISION OF THIS COUNTRY.” 

MALI was created more than 60 years ago. 

Tell us about your career. 

Natalia: MALI was created in 1954 by a group 

of people who thought that Lima should have 

a place where art could be exhibited. At that 

time there was an archaeological museum and 

a museum of popular art, but not one for fine 

art. So from that time to the present this has 

been a national museum of art. 

“MALI has the largest and most representative 

collection of art works in Peru, from the pre- 

Hispanic period to the present day. This has 

been achieved by a collective effort involving 

several generations of Peruvians. Many artists, 

collectors and families have contributed in 

different ways (by donating works, collections, 

etc.) so that Peru should finally have an 

internationally respectable collection. Also, 

different governments and presidents have 

supported and ensured the continuity of its 

management. That is the museum’s strength: 

many years of work with a clear vision of where 

we want to go”. 

Natalia Majluf y 

Flavio Calda 

Directives of MALI 

In 2015 you inaugurated a permanent 

exhibition on the second floor. How 

was the process that culminated in the 

reopening? 

Natalia: First of all it implied an investment 

in infrastructure, involving the complete 

refurbishment of the second floor of the Palacio 

de la Exposicion. To do that the museum used 

the Plan Copesco of the Ministry of Foreign 

Trade and Tourism. And while the construction 

was going on, we were working on other things; 

we acquired important collections as well as 

restoring works and creating tools to make 

them more accessible to the general public. 

One of these is the MALI app, which has a 

video guide and an audio guide incorporated in 

it. That is because we have always understood 

By 


Photos 


/61

INTERVIEW 

The MALI stands 

in the Parque de 

la Exposicion, an 

important public space 

that hosts concerts 

and other cultural 

activities. 

“A LINK BETWEEN MALI 

AND THE HISTORIC 

CENTRE MUSEUM 

NETWORK AND WITH 

THE HISTORIC DISTRICT 

OF RIMAC WILL BE 

A GREAT BOOST FOR 

TOURISM IN LIMA. WE 

ARE THINKING IN A 

GRAND PEDESTRIANISED 

WAY LINKING ALL OF 

THESE INSTITUTIONS 

TO MAKE ONE OF THE 

MOST POTENT TOURIST 

ATTRACTIONS NOT ONLY 

IN LIMA BUT IN THE 

WHOLE OF PERU. OVER 

THE NEXT FEW YEARS WE 

SHOULD CONCENTRATE 

ON THIS.” 

the second floor renovation project as a project to 

restore the museum’s collections. 

“We have made huge effort to acquire works that make 

the collection even more representative. For many years 

the museum lacked the best works, key examples 

were missing and we have done much to rectify this 

situation. Our art acquisition policy has been in force 

for many years and is a continual effort to strengthen 

the institution”. 

What are the most outstanding elements in the 

new exhibition? 

Natalia: Firstly I would like to emphasise the architectural 

quality of the new gallery space. The work is impeccable; 

it respects the building’s structure and uses modern 

techniques that are compatible with the original 

architecture. I think another point in favour of the 

second floor is its diversity. It would be very difficult for 

someone to come and say they didn’t like anything; 

there is such a variety of works that there is something 

to like for everyone: photographs from the 19th Century, 

paintings from the 18th, metalwork, textiles and graphic 

design, etc. I don’t think many other collections have 

this depth and diversity. Our collection has many stars, 

but it is impossible to pick out any single work; what 

matters is the collection as a whole. Furthermore, we 

are continually trying to consolidate and complete the 

collection, which implies an enormous effort by the team 

and the museum’s finances. 

How is your team structured? 

Natalia: The museum uses the North American 

model of museum management. At the head are 

the trustees who appoint a managing board, which 

is renewed wholly or in part every four years. The 

managing board nominates two directors; currently 

Flavio Calda looks after the museum management 

(administration, finances, marketing and personnel), 

while I am responsible for the academic side and 

everything concerning content. Reporting to us we 

have professionals in conservation, curation and 

education, etc. 

How do you see MALI today as a cultural space 

in Lima? 

Natalia: We see MALI as a great introduction to the 

museums of Lima. Visitors who want to see more 

Moche art can go to the Larco Museum; those who 

want more colonial art have the Pedro de Osma 

Museum; and those who are more interested in textiles 

can go to the Amano Museum. These options are 

already available in Lima and are museums that are 

trying to improve their collections and quality. 

How do you see Lima as a tourist destination and 

how should you concentrate on that sector? 

Natalia: Over the last ten years we have seen a gradual 

transformation in the idea of Lima for tourism. For many 

years it was thought that the city had nothing of interest 

to tourists. This has been changing and the boom in 

gastronomy has been an interesting factor; but there 

are others and I think the gradual renovation of Peruvian 

museums has started to transform this point of view. 

“Lima’s great wealth is its museums; the fact that for 

a long time they have been ignored by the authorities 

and travel agencies is a key factor. Both the public 

and private sectors have been blind to this enormous 

potential. Lima does not have ruins as impressive as 

Machu Picchu, Kuelap or Choquequirao; clearly the 

architecture of the coast does not have the same 

immediate attraction; it may be as important from an 

archaeological and historic point of view but to the 

tourist that is not the same. Nevertheless, Lima is the 

city with the greatest concentration of cultural heritage 

in physical terms, not just in Peru but in the region. 

What we have to imagine is that over the next six years, 

as the growth and expansion plans of Lima’s various 

museums come to fruition, this will be the cultural 

capital of South America. As far as museums, quality 

and quantity are concerned, no other city can compete 

with Lima”. 

You have worked with the public sector to 

refurbish the permanent exhibitions. How do you 

work with the private tourism industry? 

Flavio: Having a permanent collection helps us to work 

with organised tourism because we have a consistent 

product all year round, enabling us to participate in 

fairs and generate material such as the audio and 

video guides. 

“Since we opened in September 2015 we have 

worked very closely with agencies, tour operators and 

guides’ associations, inviting them to the museum so 

that they can see the new galleries in person. This has 

brought us the first wave of foreign visitors, but we 

expect even better results from next year onwards. 

We also have tourists who come on their own; we 

have doubled the number of such visitors but the 

figure is still low considering this museum’s potential”. 

Natalia: Another important aspect for tourists is the 

temporary exhibitions. A short while ago we opened a 

small exhibition called Las playas de Lima, 1978-1991; 

it provided a new lease of life. In July we will open a 

mega-exhibition of the collection of genre paintings we 

have acquired, which is probably the most important 

water colour collection in Peru today. We will also mount 

exhibitions of photographs and architecture on the coast, 

as well as a small display in the textile gallery, among 

others. So not only will the temporary exhibitions on the 

first floor change throughout the year, but the permanent 

display will also be refreshed. The idea is that regular 

visitors to Lima -Peruvians from outside the capital and 

Latin American travellers- will have a reason for coming 

back to MALI again and again. 

The collection of 

pre-Hispanic art 

includes pieces 

dating from 1200 

B.C.to 1532, 

when the Spanish 

Conquistadors 

arrived. 

/63

INTERVIEW 

What are the main challenges facing MALI as a 

tourist attraction? 

Flavio: The principal one is promotion, and that 

is achieved by working constantly with the tour 

operators and with foreign visitors travelling on their 

own account, who organise their trips on the Internet. 

Our aim is to be included in these visitors’ itineraries; 

we find out their first points of contact with the city 

and try to be there. For example, we are working with 

PromPeru to become their official museum. 

“We are also coordinating other matters that do not 

depend only on us. We want the area surrounding 

the museum to improve, although the park is not 

our responsibility; nevertheless we are discussing 

improvements such as a bus parking area, or including 

MALI as a stop on the tourist bus route that operate 

in the city. The idea is to make it easier for tourists to 

get to MALI”. 

And what about activities for local residents? 

Flavio: Now we are serving two sectors of the public, 

but we’ve always been a local museum. We know the 

different segments of the public in Lima, but visitors’ 

experiences are different, depending on where they 

come from. They come to a night in MALI —the first 

Friday of each month— to listen to concerts and have 

a drink; on Sunday —a family day when we hold a 

number of workshops— people come to learn and 

to do something together as a family. The app, for 

example, helps to enrich these experiences. We want 

them to keep coming back; we want visitors to do 

their own research to obtain an ever more interactive 

experience. 

Apart from this, do you have any more specialised 

activities? 

Natalia: Yes, conferences for example. We are also 

developing a programme of visits for a specialised 

Above: 

El biombo del Inca, oil 

on canvas painted in 

1837.It narrates the 

genealogy of the Incas. 

Left: 

Human head in silver 

with gilded copper 

inlay and semiprecious 

stones, made 

by the Moche Culture 

(100-800 A.D.) 

Right: 

The MALI's collection 

of colonial-era 

paintings is one of 

the most important in 

Peru. 

The abstract art of Fernando de Szyszlo. 

/65

INTERVIEW 

www.atsaperu.com 

Luxury 

as you 

Deserve 

Above and below: 

Guided visits 

can be arranged 

to see both the 

permanent collection 

and temporary 

exhibitions. 

MALI 

“WE HAVE AN INTEGRAL VISION OF TOURIST DEVELOPMENT FOR THE 

CITY. IN THE SHORT TERM TOURISTS WILL VISIT ONE MUSEUM AND LEAVE 

THE OTHERS; BUT IN THE MEDIUM TERM THE STRUCTURE OF TOURISM 

IN LIMA WILL MEAN THAT VISITORS SEE NOT ONE BUT TWO, THREE OR 

FOUR MUSEUMS DURING THEIR STAY. THIS WILL MAKE THE SMALLER 

MUSEUMS GRADUALLY FEEL THE INCREASE IN TOURISM. WE HAVE TO 

PROMOTE THE MUSEUM SECTOR AND NOT JUST ONE MUSEUM.” 

MALI 

public, who will see the works we have in store, more 

comprehensive collections than those on display, visits 

guided by specialists in the subject, etc. 

What new projects are on the horizon? 

Natalia: We have a number of ongoing projects, the 

most important of which is probably an extension to 

MALI. It will be a space specially designed for our 

contemporary collection that is not shown on the 

second floor because it covers up to the 20th Century. 

Nevertheless our contemporary collection is one of 

MALI’s most important and probably one of the most 

important in the region. 

“The idea is that the new building should be used as an 

area that brings us into closer contact with the Parque 

de la Exposicion; it will also be built in the context of the 

new line 2 metro station at the junction of Paseo Colon 

and Garcilaso de la Vega. The station connecting the 

underground with the Metropolitano bus services will 

be on our corner. It will become the heart of Lima’s 

public transport system and it is very important for us 

to make the museum a part of this”. 

Imagine flying to Peru or any destination, at any time, in a private and confortable plane with premium 

on-board services, without the risk of losing your flight and avoiding unnecessary delays. 

“You decide when and where, the rest leave it in our hands” 

reservas@atsaperu.com + (511) 363 - 7457 

/67

GOOD EATING IN LIMA 

Good eating 

in Lima 

Recommended by chefs and food writers 

THERE ARE MANY GOOD RESTAURANTS IN LIMA. SO MANY THAT YOU COULDN'T SAMPLE THEM ALL IN A 

MONTH. ESPECIALLY THE 'HUARIQUES', THOSE LITTLE PLACES KNOWN ONLY TO A FEW THAT WE PRIZE FOR 

THEIR SPECIALITIES. THE BEST CAU CAU, THE BEST CRAB, THE BEST STIR-FRIED BEEF. PERUVIANS LOVE 

RECOMMENDING THEIR FAVOURITES, PASSING THEIR DETAILS LIKE TOP SECRETS TO TRAVELLERS WANTING TO 

DISCOVER THE CITY. THIS TIME WE ASKED FOUR CHEFS AND TWO FOOD WRITERS FROM LIMA TO TELL US ABOUT 

THE ONES THE ALWAYS GO BACK TO. 

FRANCESCO DE SANCTIS 

For the chef of Sibaris, a small Barranco restaurant 

(Jr. 28 de Julio 206-B) who prepares delicious 

home-made food, Lima’s gastronomy is one of the 

most democratic in the world: you can eat very well for 

not much money and discover an infinity of flavours in 

each dish. So among his favourites that he goes back to 

over and over is El Cevichano, in Market Nº 1 in Surquillo. 

Here, he tells us, you can get a fresh cebiche made from 

the fish of the day, at a good price and with first-class 

service. The benefit is that Mariella, the owner’s sister, 

sells fresh shellfish in the same market, so everything is 

made from the freshest ingredients. Another on his list is 

la Negra in Chorrillos, who makes fantastic anticuchos. 

Between blocks 1 and 3 of Av. Huaylas, in the parking 

lot of Huaylas market. “She starts every afternoon at six, 

selling anticuchos and picarones. Fantastic”, exclaims 

Francesco. 


By 

Paola Miglio 



MONICA KISIC 

Lima is the Peruvian city where the cultures of the 

Andes and the jungle, the north and the south 

come together. Lima’s gastronomy is the result of 

all this history of urban growth, of ancestral tradition, of 

new and future cultures and of fusion”, explains talented 

young chef Monica Kisic. Her own tastes are well defined 

and as far as food is concerned they are wide ranging. 

She goes to eat mangrove scallops when they are in 

season at the famous Emilio y Gladys (Daniel Velez 187) 

in Chorrillos; clams at El Rincon de Bigote in Miraflores 

(Jose Galvez 529) and salchipapas with chicha at any Tip 

Top outlet. “Ever since I was little I’ve been going with my 

mum; their auto service is great”. But she also has other 

favourites: Doña Paulina (Pan American Highway South 

Km. 87) for the classic roast pork sandwich and tamal 

with a beer after a party; Antigua Taberna Queirolo for 

a ham sandwich (San Martin 1090, Pueblo Libre); Toshi 

Matsufuji’s Toke Pez in Surquillo (Av. Angamos 886) for 

the cebiche; La Lucha for sandwiches in general (various 

outlets) and Mi Amigo, a Chinese restaurant in San Isidro, 

in the filling station on the corner of Salaverry and Av. Del 

Ejercito. “If I fancy a glass of wine with something to eat 

I go to La Gastronoma (Libertad 439, Miraflores): their 

potato omelette and quiche are delicious. And if I just 

want a drink and finger food, I go to Barra 55 (Jr. 28 de 

Julio 206 D, Barranco). 

Previous page: 

Barra 55 is a bar 

specialising in gin 

cocktails. 

Above: 

El Cevichano, 

in Mercado Nº 1 

de Surquillo, is 

the perfect place 

to sample this 

traditional dish. 

Below: 

Queirolo retains the 

essence of an early 

20th Century tavern. 

Ideal for a good 

chilcano. 

/71


Above: 

Pizza served at 

Mayta Restaurant. 

Below: 

Lobo de Mar Otani, 

where the cebiche is 

delicious. 

Jimena Agois 

TOMAS MATSUFUJI 

The owner and chef of fish and shellfish bar Al Toke 

Pez (Av. Angamos 886, Surquillo) has made a wise 

choice of premises and type of food. He favours 

home-made cebiches and generous helpings. For 

Tomas, “Lima is a place where rich and poor alike can 

enjoy one of the greatest pleasures life has to offer: eating 

well”. So his favourite places include La Huerta Chinen 

(Mercado Nº 2 de Surquillo) where, he tells us, everything 

is good but the stuffed potato and chuck ribs are great; 

Yamakawa (Jr. Luis Varela y Orbegoso 259, Surquillo), 

for its tacu tacu or stir-fried noodles and fish; Lobo de 

Mar Otani (Jr. Colon 587, Miraflores) for its cebiche and 

crabs; El Cabrito del Huanchaco de La Victoria (Rodolfo 

Beltran 199); the dim sum breakfast at Salon Capon in 

Chinatown in the centre of Lima; and finally, Costanera 

700 (Av. Del Ejercito 421, Miraflores): “The whole menu 

is excellent, put the duck with rice is especially notable”, 

says Tomas. And he’s right. 

JIMENA AGOIS 

Is a photographer and restaurant critic. Her most 

recent work includes her photos for the latest book by 

Gaston Acurio and Javier Masias, “Bitute, el Sabor de 

Lima”, and those for the next work by Virgilio Martinez 

for publishers Phaidon. She has learned that “eating 

in Lima means enjoying a wide variety of flavours and 

styles. It means knowing more about the country with 

each mouthfull and, above all, always finding surprises”. 

Although Jimena spends her days visiting restaurants, 

taking photos and trying everything, there are places 

to which she always goes back, such as Mayta (Av. 

28 de Julio 1290, Miraflores), for the Thai pasta and all 

of its cebiches and tiraditos; Rafael (San Martin 300, 

Miraflores), for its curries and shrimp dishes such as 

chupe (chowder); and El Mercado (Hipolito Unanue 203, 

Miraflores), where she says she likes everything and any 

choice is a good one. “Another two I go to are Carnal 

(Elias Aguirre 698, Miraflores), for the hamburgers, 

and Los Bachiche (Av. La Paz 1025, Miraflores) for the 

octopus carpaccio, pizzas, pesto and testa, a dish that is 

difficult to find in Lima, but chef Cinzia Repetto prepares 

very well indeed”. 

FOR TOMAS, 

“LIMA IS A PLACE 

WHERE RICH AND 

POOR ALIKE CAN 

ENJOY ONE OF THE 

GREATEST 

PLEASURES LIFE 

HAS TO OFFER: 

EATING WELL” 



VIRGILIO MARTINEZ 

Gastronomy in Lima is a unique example of diversity, 

an interesting chaos of flavours and tradition. It 

reinforces our identity”. 

The chef of Central, the world’s fourth best restaurant 

according to The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, of San 

Pellegrino and Acqua Panna, also has his favourites. 

Those that are close to where I live and work, as the 

pressure of work prevents him from going far. Virgilio 

Martinez prefers the classic cebiches of Surquillo 

market, with El Cevichano and Bam Bam and its 

powerful leche de tigre; both can be found in Mercado 

Nº 1 de Surquillo. “It’s gigantic —he says—. When I 

fancy a chalaquita de almejas I go to El Rincon de 

Bigote (Jose Galvez 529)”. And then Harry Neyra’s 

La Barra for coffee and sandwiches from Renato 

Peralta’s Migas (both at Perupa’ti, Av. Armendariz 

546, Miraflores) and Los Bachiche (Av. La Paz 1025, 

Miraflores) when I fancy pasta. 

JAVIER MASIAS 

Restaurant critic, joint author of “Bitute, el Sabor de 

Lima” and food writer Javier Masias knows where 

to eat and appreciates good preparation. For that 

reason he has some interesting recommendations. His 

concept of Lima as a gastronomic space is clear: “Lima 

cuisine brings together all of Peru’s different identities. It’s 

a natural laboratory of fusions and experimentation with 

influences from all over the world and one of the greatest 

sources of satisfaction and pride for its inhabitants”. The 

places he most likes to go to include, for example, Barra 

55 (Jr. 28 de Julio 206 D, Barranco). “I love the fact that 

it has some of the best gin and tonics in the city —he 

notes—, just a few canapes but beautifully made, always 

a good choice of music and affordable prices. It’s best on 

weekdays”. Another of his favourites is La Gastronoma 

(Libertad 439, Miraflores), a delicatessen that sells 

natural, artisanal and organic produce. It has delicious 

natural wines and is nice and quiet; it is off the beaten 

track. Amaz (Av. La Paz 1079, Miraflores), Amazon food 

to share, is also on his list; the bar is run by one of the 

best bartenders in Lima. He would also add Rafael (San 

Martin 300, Miraflores): “A contemporary approach to 

the classics in an open environment”; El Cevichano in 

Mercado Nº 1 de Surquillo for a fresh, tasty and lowcost 

cebiche; and Isolina (Prolongacion San Martin 101, 

Barranco), traditional Lima food in huge helpings to share. 

THERE ARE MORE YOU 

SHOULDN'T MISS IN 

LIMA, BUT ALMOST 

EVERYONE AGREES 

THAT THEY SHOULD BE 

KEPT FOR THAT SPECIAL 

OCCASION. FOR EXAMPLE, 

CENTRAL (SANTA ISABEL 

376, MIRAFLORES), 

MAIDO (SAN MARTIN 

399, MIRAFLORES), 

RAFAEL (SAN MARTIN 

300, MIRAFLORES) AND 

MALABAR (AV. CAMINO 

REAL 101, SAN ISIDRO) 

Above: 

Rincon de Bigote 

is very popular for 

its clams with chilli, 

onion, mushrooms, 

coriander and 

lemon. 

Below: 

Isolina offers creole 

cooking as it used 

to be. 

Sergio Guzman 

/73


MY RECOMMENDATIONS 

When they ask me where to eat it’s not easy to answer. I have 

too many places to recommend; but there are some I always go 

back to regardless. Mind you, I’m not going to repeat the ones I’ve 

already recommended, to increase the variety I agree: All of those 

mentioned are places I go to often. I would also add the following. 

Somos 

Above: 

the hamburger at 

Cafe A Bistro is 

one of the best in 

the city. 

Below: 

left to right: 

Virgilio Martinez, 

Jimena Agois and 

Tomas Matsufuji. 

Below from left 

to right: Javier 

Masias, Francesco 

de Sanctis and 

Monica Kisic. 

• La Picanteria (corner of Gonzalez Prada and Santa Rosa in 

Surquillo) for crab chilcano, cau cau and pork with rice. 

• Don Fernando for the pepian, northern style (General Garzon 

1788, Jesus Maria). 

• El Pan de la Chola (Av. La Mar 918, Miraflores) for a good 

breakfast. 

• Panchita (2 de Mayo 298, Miraflores), the true Lima cuisine by 

Martha Palacios is impeccable. Her pork and rice and carapulcra 

are unforgettable. 

• Cafe A Bistro for a good hamburger (filling station on the corner 

of Av. Salaverry and Av. Del Ejercito, San Isidro). 

• Osso (Tahiti 175, La Molina) for meat. 

• Mariate (Arica 478, Miraflores) for puddings. Look out for the 

alfajores and crocante de pecanas. 

• Pum Kay (Av. Benavides 1949) for Chinese food. 

• El Tio Candela (Jr. Angaraes 482, Lima) for pan-fried fish. 

You have to go to them and you’ll have a great experience. 

Jimena Agois 

Jimena Agois 



Pocho Caceres 

Santiago Barco 

Phoss


A TOUR OF THE 

OLDEST COLONIAL- 

ERA MANSION ON 

THE CONTINENT, WITH 

CHEF JERONIMO DE 

ALIAGA, DESCENDENT 

OF THE ORIGINAL 

OWNER, AS OUR 

GUIDE. 

By 


Photos 


Casa de Aliaga 

481 years of history 

The inner courtyard 

of the mansion, in 

the Seville style, 

with Cusco School 

paintings. 

/79


Above: 

The Salon Dorado 

contains three mirrors 

with a profile of Marie 

Antoinette, Luis XVI 

furniture and a bronze 

fireplace bearing the 

signs of the zodiac. 

Below: 

initials of Juan 

de Aliaga y de la 

Puente, proprietor 

in the middle of the 

19th Century. He 

was responsible for 

the work that gave 

the mansion the 

appearance it has 

today. 


HAS BEEN 

INHABITATED FOR 

17 GENERATIONS 

OF THE SAME 

FAMILY SINCE IT´S 

CONSTRUCTION IN 

XVI CENTURY 

W 

hen Conquistador Jeronimo de Aliaga reached Peru from Panama, 

he must never have thought that the plot of land given to him by 

Pizarro as a reward for his services would become the oldest house 

in the Americas continuously occupied by the same line: the De Aliaga 

family. Neither would he have imagined that one of his descendents, after 

seventeen generations of the family had lived without interruption in the 

house, would share his name; but instead of wielding a sword, the Jeronimo 

de Aliaga of our times is responsible for the gastronomic experience offered 

by the house today. 

“Opening De Aliaga mansion to tourists —recalls Jeronimo— was the idea 

of my grandfather, Eduardo Arrarte, founder of Lima Tours. Not only did my 

family live in the house, but my father and an aunt still live there. So the Casa 

de Aliaga is above all a family home. But its historic importance, the art works 

it contains and also the need for a source of income to ensure its upkeep 

and maintenance meant that we have opened the oldest part to visitors while 

keeping the private apartments for those who live there”. 

FROM THE SPANISH CONQUEST TO THE NEW YORK TIMES 

The Casa de Aliaga was built on a huge plot occupied by the Inca chieftain 

Taulichusco, the highest authority in the River Rimac valley. After the conquest 

of Peru, this land was distributed by Pizarro among his senior commanders. 

Pizarro himself took the land now occupied by the Presidential Palace, while 

Jeronimo de Aliaga built his house on a 2500 square metre plot, and over


The Salon de los Azulejos is decorated with hand-painted ceramic tiles dating from the 17th Century. 

/83


THE HISTORIC 

CENTRE OF LIMA 

CONTAIN GREAT 

HOUSES OF THAT TIME, 

SUCH AS THE 

GOYENECHE, 

TORRE TAGLE AND 

RIVA AGÜERO 

MANSIONS 

Each room of the 

house has its own 

style, deriving 

from the furniture, 

paintings and 

contemporary 

items. 

the years it has hosted artists pursued by the law, 

presidents, intellectuals and even saints such as St. 

Rose of Lima. 

The first Jeronimo de Aliaga left the port of Sanlucar 

de Barrameda in Cadiz at the age of sixteen, bound 

for Panama. From there he travelled with stores 

and munitions to Peru, as a member of the force 

commanded by Conquistador Pizarro. He took part in 

the foundation of Lima on the 18th of January 1535 

and in the creation of San Marcos University, the oldest 

in the Americas. 

The Historic Centre of Lima and many other districts of 

the capital contain great houses of that time, such as 

the Goyeneche, Torre Tagle and Riva Agüero mansions, 

but very few open their doors to visitors. This, although 

much more recent from a historical point of view, the 

Casa Moreyra is today a well-known restaurant; the 

Pedro de Osma museum and the Garcia Alvarado 

mansion stage occasional celebrations, such as 

weddings or corporate events. The closest to the Casa 

de Aliaga is the Huayoccari Hacienda in the Sacred 

Valley, Cusco.“We both opened our homes to show the 

wealth of works of art they contain. In our case the art 

collection and the wide variety of styles to be seen in 

the house, including French, baroque, gothic, viceregal, 

neo-gothic, classical and even modern, as introduced 

by the current residents. That is what brings it alive”. 

And that is why the mansion has been a national 

monument since 1972 and why The New York Times 

describes it as an obligatory stop on any visit to Lima. 

The Historic Centre has been changing for many years, 

when former mayor Alberto Andrade gave priority to 

its appearance and safety. “That was the idea. As with 

most countries that have a historic tradition comparable 

to ours, the centre should be an ever more important 

part of any visit to Peru, and in its small way, the Casa 

de Aliaga contributes to this”. 

MORE ALIVE THAN EVER 

What is certain is that some eight thousand visitors a 

year come to this house, next to the historic post office 

building and to one side of the Presidential Palace. 

Jeronimo de Aliaga has four proposals for these 

visitors.“On one hand we have guided tours offered 

through agencies. During these visits the group comes 

with its own guide, although we can make specific 

recommendations regarding the guide. Individuals 

wishing to visit must make a reservation in advance to 

ensure that the service is available, and for them the 

house has its own guide. 

The best part of the experience is the gastronomy. We 

offer lunch and dinner for groups of up to 120 people 

in two of the most important rooms, the Salon de los 

Would you like to discover Machu Picchu? 

Winding through the Sacred Valley of the Incas, deep into the heart of Peru´s 

ancient past, Inca Rail transports travelers in complete comfort and harmony to 

magnificent Machu Picchu. Offering four levels of service and eight daily trips 

between Ollantaytambo and Machu Picchu, Inca Rail is a luxurious way to enjoy 

the 1.5 hour excursion. Spacious seats, panoramic views, UV-protected windows, 

air conditioning, fine Peruvian cuisine and impeccable service await travelers.


Left: 

Jeronimo de Aliga 

prepares each dish 

at dinner. 

Above: 

king prawn and 

yellow mashua 

purée with ragout 

and Porcon 

mushrooms. 

Below: 

lamb with foamed 

Ica butter and 

crispy quinoa. 

Opposite page: 

the mansion's 

original dining 

room has been 

adapted to 

accommodate 

groups of diners. 


IS MORE ALIVE 

THAN EVER BECAUSE ITS 

HISTORY HAS BEEN 

ENRICHED BY EXPERIENCES, 

THE DESCENDENTS 

OF ITS ORIGINAL 

OWNER AND ARTISTIC 

DIVERSITY 

Azulejos, which was painted by hand and whose tiles 

were brought from Seville in the 17th Century, and the 

Salon Dorado, with its Luis 16th furniture.“We have 

nearly finished a dining room on the ground floor; this 

will free the two rooms mentioned, thus improving 

the experience and reducing group size, as the new 

room will seat a maximum of eighty people. Another 

option consists of corporate events and programmes. 

We have room for two hundred people standing and 

offer a suitable menu for such events in line with the 

client’s requirements. Finally we have a seven-course 

taster menu. It is much more flexible and responds 

to market forces. I make personal visits to organic 

producers and fairs, and I also have specific suppliers 

for different products. I make the different courses from 

the ingredients I can obtain”. 

In general, the menu is based on two gastronomic 

styles, one of purely Peruvian Creole food, in line with 

the personality of the city of Lima, and a lighter and 

gentler international version.“The latter is designed with 

the type of visitor we receive in mind; most of them are 

from Europe and the United States and are 60 years 

old or more, so they seek lighter dishes or special diets. 

We can also make up specific menus as requested by 

individual groups”. 

The De Aliaga mansion is more alive than ever because 

its history has been enriched by experiences, the 

descendents of its original owner and artistic diversity. 

It also has tourist initiatives that share all of this with 

its 21st Century visitors.“The whole of my family 

is involved in this enterprise: my father and aunt 

handle public relations, my sister Maria Eugenia does 

communications, my brother Gonzalo is responsible for 

administration and I’m in charge of the food. We look 

for equilibrium between the house as a family home 

and the house as a tourist experience. We go from one 

to the other and little by little, we are adapting to new 

situations and requests from visitors”. 

/87

ADVERTORIAL 

TITILAKA’S GENEROUS “ALL IN” SERVICE INCLUDES 

CONTEMPORARY CUISINE CREATED BY PERUVIAN 

CHEF MARIA FE GARCIA, AND MORE THAN A 

DOZEN HIGHLY FLEXIBLE ITINERARIES LED BY OUR 

EXPERTS AND LOCAL BILINGUAL GUIDES. 

Luxury in the 

cradle of the Inca 

civilisation 

The itineraries include visits to picturesque markets, 

weavers, walks on ancient roads, exclusive excursions 

to private sections of the Taquile and Uros islands, 

mountain biking, bird watching, road trips, visits to 

archaeological sites and excursions to Bolivia. 

Everyone working in the lodge is committed to doing 

so in a sustainable and responsible manner. Three 

quarters of our personnel are from local villages, 

thus encouraging their economic development. 

Titilaka also works with a not-for-profit organisation 

to support the communities living on the lake shore, 

by providing a sum of money for each guest. We also 

offer each guest the opportunity to make their own 

donation when visiting a local community. 

The hotel is modern and sophisticated, with original 

decoration that includes hand-made products from 

local artisans. The eighteen rooms have a view of 

the lake. Titilaka has its own boathouse with sailing 

boats, kayaks, canoes and paddleboards for the 

exclusive use of its guests. With Relais & Chateaux 

services and conveniences, Titilaka is the perfect 

base for exploring the highest navigable lake in the 

world and its Andean surroundings, in style. 

By 

Titilaka 

Endless skies, snow-covered peaks and sapphire 

waters shining on the horizon at Titilaka, luxurious 

lodgings with an out-of-this-world charm on 

the shore of Titicaca Lake, the cradle of Andean 

civilisation and home of some of the most traditional 

communities in Peru. Off the beaten track, Titilaka 

is the entry to an unspoiled part of Titicaca Lake 

that offers a magical variety of spectacular scenery 

including mountains, Inca and pre-Inca ruins, ancient 

roads and vibrant indigenous villages where whole 

families weave colourful traditional textiles by hand. 

Titilaka means “puma’s mouth” in Aymara, and the 

lodge takes its name from a local community with 

which it shares a private peninsula jutting spectacularly 

into the lake. Frequently described as “mystic”, 

the surrounding area is home to many Aymara and 

Quechua communities for whom Spanish is their 

second —or even third— language, and where the 

Andean creation myths centred on the lake are still 

part of local customs and daily life. 

/89

MUSIC IN LIMA 

Dengue Dengue 

Dengue!, a duo 

that mixes tropical 

and electronic 

rhythms with potent 

audiovisual effects. 

Music in 

Lima 

Soundtrack of a musical city 

By 

Santiago 

Pillado-Matheu 

LIMA IS A CITY WITH 

MANY HIDDEN SECRETS. 

A CITY WHERE YOU HAVE 

TO KNOW WHERE TO FIND 

WHAT YOU WANT. DESPITE 

BEING AN AUTHENTIC 

CRUCIBLE OF DIFFERENT 

CULTURES, A REFLECTION 

OF PERU AND ITS GREAT 

CULTURAL DIVERSITY, THE 

CITY HAS MANY FACETS 

NOT VISIBLE IN FULL 

EVEN TO ITS NEARLY TEN 

MILLION INHABITANTS. 

A PALETTE OF SOUNDS 

VARYING BETWEEN 

TRADITIONAL, URBAN 

VANGUARD AND TROPICAL 

ANARCHY. 


/91

MUSIC IN LIMA 

Left: 

Cover of creole album 

La gran reunion. 

Renzo Giraldo 


CONTEMPORARY MUSIC 

Contemporary and experimental music has had a place 

in Lima since the middle of the last century, when Edgar 

Valcarcel, Cesar Bolaños, Arturo Ruiz del Pozo and Jorge 

Eduardo Eielson, among others, began their search for 

new sounds. In the vanguard of modern music, new 

exponents are coming to prominence today. Fusions 

of jazz and free music join with artistic performances 

in experimental venues: in the northern suburbs Luis 

Alvarado and his label Buh Records, the MAC and 

the first collective exhibition of musical art, Telefonica 

Foundation, the National Theatre and art venues Garua, 

Proyecto AMIL and 80m2 demonstrate new electronic 

and analogue trends being created in Peru. 

ROCK AND ROLL 

Rock is not a musical genre in Lima. It is the sum of 

the different aesthetic stimuli one finds on the streets; 

their most representative and creative cultural diversity. 

In scattered venues in districts such as Miraflores, 

Barranco, Los Olivos and the Historic Centre, the 

forces of countercultural rock from freak folk and indie 

to hardcore and metal, and numerous sui generis styles 

are making themselves heard. Live performers include 

artists such as Kanaku y El Tigre, Cocaina, Menores, 

Jiron Mercurio, La Sarita, El Aire, Cuchillazo, Cobra and 

many others, whose gigs can blow you away. 


TROPICAL ANARCHY 

But there is something else in the air, which fully represents 

the spirit of Lima in the 21st Century: it’s cumbia. Deriving 

from the seventies, when psychedelic cumbia was at 

its peak, with bands such as Los Destellos, Los Mirlos 

and Juaneco y su Combo, brewed from the chicha or 

Andean cumbia if the eighties, whose exponents included 

Chacalon, Los Shapis, Pintura Roja and Armonia 10, 

the cumbia rhythm of the new generation is potent and 

extremely popular: from the electronic style of Dengue 

Dengue Dengue!, Elegante y La Imperial, including the 

DJs of digital cumbia, to La Mente and Bareto, with their 

dub influences and interminable fiestas, tropical anarchy 

is the rhythm of today. 

If there is one thing we ought to know when we arrive 

in Lima, it is that below its surface a musical explosion 

under way; a countercurrent developing between the 

truth and the cosmopolitan city fed by the mountains and 

the sea, the song of the river and the sound of the wind. 

A city where everything makes a sound and where every 

soul needs song to stay alive. 


SALSA IS ONE OF 

THE MOST POPULAR 

MUSICAL GENRES IN 

LIMA, AND ESPECIALLY 

IN CALLAO. BANDS 

SUCH AS CAMAGUEY 

AND SINGERS LIKE 

WILLY RIVERA HAVE A 

FAITHFUL FOLLOWING 

THERE. NEVERTHELESS, 

NEW SALSA SONGS ARE 

BEING PERFORMED BY 

SABOR Y CONTROL, A 

BAND PLAYING 'HARD 

SALSA' LIKE THE 

CLASSIC BANDS OF 

THE PAST, AND WHICH 

ALSO USES MUSIC 

WHEN WORKING WITH 

YOUNG PEOPLE IN POOR 

NEIGHBOURHOODS 

Left: 

Julio Perez, vocalist 

of the rock band La 

Sarita. 

Right: 

Sabor y Control. 

Right: 

Dina Paucar, one of 

the best performers 

of Peruvian folk music 

in one of her many 

concerts. 

SAYARIY ITS A 

MUSICAL PRODUCTION 

COMPANY THAT 

SEEKS TO PROMOTE, 

THROUGH VARIOUS 

RECORD LABELS, THE 

DIFFERENT MUSICAL 

DEMONSTRATIONS 

ARISING IN PERU. THEY 

INCLUDE CREOLE, 

ANDEAN, ELECTRONIC 

AND CONTEMPORARY 

MUSIC 

LIMA BEWITCHED 

The essence of Lima’s traditional music is creole 

music. A mixture of Spanish and African, with musical 

flavours from the Andes and other regions, it took 

root in Lima at the beginning of the 20th Century, 

keeping the creole spirit alive in the city’s most 

emblematic neighbourhoods: Rimac, Barrios Altos, 

Breña, La Victoria and Cercado. Following in the 

footsteps of interpreters such as Limeñita y Ascoy, 

Los Morochucos, Oscar Aviles and Arturo “Zambo” 

Cavero, and composers like Felipe Pinglo, Chabuca 

Granda, Manuel Acosta Ojeda and Augusto Polo 

Campos, the creole legacy in its purest form continues 

thanks to Manolo Castillo Vera, Jorge Armas, Francisco 

“Chiquito” Rodriguez, Cesar Manuel “Pescado” Oliva 

and Alberto “Chiquitin” Borjas; all of them recently 

published by record company Sayariy, under the La 

gran reunion label. 

APUS AND FLOWERS 

Waves of migration from the highlands to the capital 

have given rise to innumerable departmental clubs in 

different parts of Lima. These clubs, in the centre and 

peripheral districts of Lima, host all the local fiestas 

of each community, district, province or region of the 

Peruvian highlands. And when this beautiful flower of 

folk tradition blooms, an atmosphere of carnival and 

joy develops and voices are raised in nostalgia and 

homage to Peru’s original peoples. From the likes of 

Raul Garcia Zarate and Manuelcha Prado, custodians 

of the traditional Ayacucho guitar, to Dina Paucar, 

Sonia Morales and Laurita Pacheco, exponents of 

the Andean harp, the sentiment of this music can be 

found all over the city, particularly in the area around 

the Central Market, where every variation of folklore 

from all over Peru can be found.

NEW SOUL 

By 


THE SECOND-HAND AND ANTIQUITIES 

MARKET IS STEADFASTLY EXPANDING. 

IT IS INFLUENCED BY THE PERIODIC 

ECONOMIC CRISES THAT AFFECT 

THE WORLD AND DEMAND CREATIVE 

ECONOMIC MANAGEMENT BY 

INDIVIDUALS, WHO THEN UNEARTH 

WHAT THEIR GRANDPARENTS HAD KEPT 

TUCKED AWAY. BUT IT ALSO DEPENDS ON 

A A TASTE FOR VINTAGE AND ANTIQUES, 

GIVING A NEW USE TO PRODUCTS THAT 

IN MANY CASES WERE DESIGNED FOR 

ANOTHER PURPOSE. 

Xxxxxxxxxxxxxx 

New soul 

Objects and spaces enjoying a second life 

This may be decoration, an addition 

to a collection, fashion or recycling 

-the latter being the result of the new 

environmental sensibility that is sweeping 

the planet. To all of this can be added a 

significant investment to recover important 

buildings and give them a new sense of 

purpose, thus ensuring the conservation of a 

a rich historical heritage that otherwise could 

succumb to the modern appetite for new 

buildings. 

For example theodolite tripods used by 

surveyors, Cuatro en un Baul is selling them 

as lamp standards. Glass bottles used by 

pharmacies to store medicines: Las Primas 

is selling them for use in the kitchen. Wooden 

chests, old doors or fallen tree trunks can 

now be found converted into tables in 

hotels and private houses. There is no limit. 

Jewellery, first edition books, clothes such as 

that sold by Las Traperas in Barranco and 

Mercado de Pulgas, furniture and musical 

instruments, toys, household items, tools, 

watches and cameras, such as those kept 

by Rescatando Recuerdos. The list is long 

because everything can be brought back to 

life or used again as decoration in the home 

or office. 

Hall of the Edificio Ronald. Just a 

few years ago this building was 

abandoned; today it is part of 

the Iniciativa Fugaz and contains 

restaurants, shops and art 

galleries. 


/95

NEW SOUL 

Above: 

Cuatro en un Baul. 

Left: 

The Goyeneche mansion 

in the centre of Lima, has 

been preserved by the 

Banco de Credito del Peru. 

Right: 

At Las Traperas you can 

buy clothes and even 

furniture and decorative 

items. 

But apart from this, Lima has much to offer from Peru. 

In some second-hand or antiques stores you can find 

republican-era or colonial art, popular art that has gone 

out of fashion, and things used in times past on the 

coast or in the highlands, such as Las Pallas in Barranco. 

Sometimes, olden days are associated with a specific 

person known for his career, tastes or possessions, and 

this is the case with Jorge Bustamante and his collection 

from the middle of the 20th Century, which is on show at 

Vernissage Arte y Antigüedades, and Orlando Espinosa 

and his Art Deco collection, which can be seen in 

El Desvan, both in the district of San Isidro. 

Entire streets are given over to antique stores, such as 

La Paz Avenue in Miraflores, Junin next to Mercado Nº 2 

de Surquillo or the road down from La Molina. Normally 

these stores offer a carefully chosen selection of what can 

be found in the more popular second hand markets. 

Restoration 

and historic buildings 

• Arte Express: www.livingaroundart.com. 

• World Monuments Fund: www.wmf.org. 

Carlos Ibarra 

Cuatro en un Baul 

Large old houses are also being transformed. This is true 

of the Hotel B in Barranco, which offers sophisticated and 

exclusive rooms; the Goyeneche mansion, which belongs 

to the Banco de Credito, or the Riva Agüero mansion, 

which houses the Museum of Popular Art and Traditions. 

Arte Express has contributed much to the restoration of 

old buildings in the historic centre of Lima. This company 

has restored some of the capital’s emblematic buildings, 

many of them dating from the beginning of the 20th 

Century, converting them into banks, offices, stores and 

technology businesses. 

A particularly noteworthy example can be found in the 

Constitutional Province of Callao. A group of investors, 

who have created the Iniciativa Fugaz, have restored the 

traditional Casa Ronald and several buildings around the 

Main Square, which are used for different cultural and 

gastronomic initiatives, including art galleries, boutiques 

and restaurants. 


Another way of restoring and using old things is followed by the 

World Monuments Fund, an institution that in Peru is restoring and 

safeguarding a rich heritage. At present it is undertaking new projects 

under the guidance of photographer Mario Testino. Four of these 

are in Cusco, one in Arequipa and four in the Department of Lima: 

The church of San Cristobal de Rapaz in the northern highlands, the 

terraces of Laraos in the south, the Quinta de Presa in the district of 

Rimac and the Ermita in Barranco, a building dating from the middle 

of the 18th Century, although the existing building, in the neo-gothic 

style, was erected at the beginning of the 20th Century. 


Arte Express 

Antiquities 

• Between blocks 2 and 8 

of La Paz Avenue, Miraflores: 

www.mirafloresperu.com. 

• Surquillo Market, block 1 of Jiron 

Junin. 

• La Molina Antiques Market, on the 

descent from Cerro de La Molina. 

• Las Pallas: www.laspallas.com.pe. 

• Rescatando Recuerdos: 

on Facebook. 

• El Desvan: 

www.antiguedadeseldesvan.com. 

• Vernissage Arte y Antigüedades: 

on Facebook. 


Above: 

Façade of the 

Sudamericana building, 

erected between 1921 

and 1930.Now restored 

thanks to the work of Arte 

Express. 

Left: 

Lots of furniture with a 

history in the antique 

shops of Miraflores. 

Below: 

Mural in the Plaza Matriz 

in Callao. Part of the 

Fugaz Initiative is to bring 

this area of Callao back 

to life through art and 

culture. 

Second hand 

• Cuatro en un Baul, Jiron Martinez de Pinillos 

105, Barranco. 

• Las Primas: www.primas.com.pe. 

• Mercado de Pulgas (Barranco and Miraflores): 

trueca@trueca.pe. 

• LasTraperas: www.online.lastraperas.com and 

on Facebook. 

• Traperos de Emaus de San Agustin: Avenida 

Guardia Civil Mz. M Lt. 11, Chorrillos. 

• La Cachina, in the centre of Lima. Block 8 of 

Argentina Avenue. 

/97

“Peru’s Travel Industry Foundation, 

affiliated with Tourism Cares of the USA ” 

1 La Libertad 

Project: Implementation and improvement of the exhibition halls and deposits of the 

Archaeological Programme "El Brujo" Complex (PACEB) - Cao Museum, towards the 

optimisation in the management of the archaeological collection of the Moche Culture. 

Purpose: Cooperate with the PACEB and Wiese Foundation in the conservation and 

showcasing of the cultural heritage and historical items found in the Moche archaeological 

site, in the district of Magdalena de Cao; and support community development in the district 

by engaging young students in the educational programme "Getting close with our Heritage". 

Support: Visit the Archaeological Complex "El Brujo" and the Cao Museum during the tour 

of "the Moche Route". 

2 La Libertad 

Project: Archaeology and community development in the town of San Jose de Moro, where 

a Moche Culture cemetery is located. 

Purpose: Cooperate with the Catholic University of Peru to train young members of the 

community in art and serigraphy so they can reproduce the ceramics and iconography of the 

Moche with their traditional techniques. Promote the products of the ceramics workshop by 

distributing printed collateral material. 

Support: Visit the ceramics workshop and archaeological site of San Jose de Moro, during 

the tour of "The Moche Route". 

3 Lima 

Project: Mobile application based on the geolocation of the main museums in Lima. 

Purpose: To help the Municipality of Lima in the creation of a mobile application in both systems 

Android and IOS, free of charge, in three languages: English, Spanish and Portuguese, for the use of visitors 

to the city, with graphic and complete information on the main museums in Lima and Callao. 

Support: Download the application and visit the museums in the city. 

"We sponsor initiatives of sustainable tourism in Peru which generate benefits to 

the destination, preserving its heritage and empowering the local communities." 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 

5 Cusco 

Project: Diversification of the Tour products in the Community of Andahuaylillas, by 

showcasing and managing traditional resources: a "Chicheria" and an Artisan bread oven. 

Purpose: To help members of the Andahuaylillas community perceive more benefit from 

the tourist visits to their famous Chapel, by offering additional typical products such as the 

"Chicha" - corn beer, and Andean farmer's bread. 

Support: Visit the "Chicheria" and the bakery during the Andean Baroque tour, and buy 

their products. 

6 Cusco 

Project: Site museum and handcraft centre of Tipon, Inca archaeological site. 

Purpose: To help the members of the Choquepata community, where the Inca 

archaeological site of Tipon is located, to show their cultural heritage, strengthen their 

identity and promote their handcrafts. 

Support: Visit the community centre and purchase handcrafts during the tour of Tipon. 

7 Cusco 

Project: "ReCusco", collecting and recycling Pet plastic bottles in the Cusco tourist route. 

Purpose: Manage a recycling programme for Pet plastic bottles, dispensed by 

TurismoCuida's founding companies to their guests in the Cusco route, with the 

co-sponsoring of the Fund of the Americas - FONDAM and under the direction of Prisma 

Association, which should protect the environment and incorporate micro-businesses 

of recyclers. 

Support: When visiting Cusco, the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu, deposit your empty 

plastic bottles in the "ReCusco" containers". 

4 Lima 

Project: Detailed survey of the "Kullpis" of Rupac, in Huaral province, Lima Region. 

Purpose: To support the faculty and students at Orval Peruvian Art University, with their research at the 

Archaeological Site of Rupac - ca. 13C, through 3D laser scanning of the "Kullpis" (buildings/towers 

of stone), and comprehensive surveying to build replicas to scale, which can be visited and thus 

preserving the original ones. 

Support: Visit the Archaeological Site of Rupac, 8-hour drive from Lima, developing the local economy 

through tourism and motivating the area's residents to preserve their heritage. 

8 

8 Arequipa 

Project: The Sillar Route, declaration of the sillar quarries of Añashuayco, as Cultural 

Heritage Site of Peru. 

Purpose: To help some 500 members of the Association of Sillar Cutters of Añashuayco, 

to protect their trade and the quarries of Sillar, a white volcanic stone and main icon of 

the architecture of Arequipa, called "the White City". 

Support: Visit the quarries and admire the work of the Sillar cutters during the city tour 

of Arequipa. 

www.turismocuida.org / info@turismocuida.org 

/TurismoCuida

EXPAT 

“THIS WORK 

IS THE BEST 

PRESENT I'VE 

EVER RECEIVED. 

EVERYTHING 

I KNOW, 

EVERYTHING I 

HAVE LEARNED 

OVER THESE 

YEARS ”. 

By 

Carolina San Roman 

Karime LopezChristian Declercq 

Where were you born? 

I am Mexican. I was born in the Federal District, but I lived 

there only until I was seven and then moved to Queretaro. 

I would say I’m from Queretaro because I mostly grew up 

there; my home, my friends and my life are there. 

Did you know early on that cooking was your thing, 

or did you study something else beforehand? 

After leaving school in Queretaro I decided to study 

plastic arts in Paris. Before going to university I had to 

learn French, so I spent a year studying it and a little art 

history. I then started studying fine art. 

So how did you get into gastronomy? 

While studying plastic arts I realised that what I liked most 

was cooking. Everything relating to cooking in Paris was 

great, so detailed that it captivated me and I wanted to do 

it myself; so I decided to study cooking. I wasn’t happy 

in Paris but I did want to stay in Europe, and thanks to 

a friend I made contact with a school and moved to 

Seville, where I studied gastronomy for three years. 

Then I worked for six months in a really great restaurant, 

it had three Michelin stars, afterwards they hired me for 

two years. Then I went to another good restaurant, also 

Michelin starred, and so onwards. 

What were your experiences before 

coming to Peru? 

After being in Spain for several years I was asked to take 

charge of a restaurant in Mexico City and I decided to go 

back. I was the creative manager of Puyol —one of the 

city’s best restaurants— for a time, but I couldn’t adapt, 

so I moved to North Carolina to work for a restaurant 

company that needed somebody to look after the quality 

in all the restaurants in the chain. They paid very well so I 

took advantage of it to save some money; then I returned 

to Mexico while I decided what I wanted to do. I worked 

in my family’s restaurants, responsible for the baking and 

confectionery. During this period I was accepted by a 

restaurant in Tokyo, and without thinking twice, off I went. 

I was training for a few months and then they hired me 

and I stayed there until my work visa expired a year and 

a half later. 

So how did you come to Peru? 

My Japanese work visa took so long that I had to leave 

the country. I decided to go to South America because 

I had never been there. I was in Bolivia working on a 

project and some mutual friends —friends of mine and 

Virgilio Martinez— contacted me to work at an event in 

Peru. I accepted because I had always wanted to get 

to know the country. I met Virgilio and he offered me a 

job with him when he opened Senzo, his restaurant in 

Cusco. I stayed there several months and then he started 

other projects so I came to Lima to work at Central. 

What do you do at Central? 

I’m responsible for development and research; this is 

very important here because all the restaurant’s dishes 

have a history. I am part of the Mater Iniciativa, which 

consists in investigating Peruvian products. To do so we 

travel to the different regions. We draw up the menu using 

the results of this research work. This work is the best 

present I’ve ever received. Everything I know, everything 

I have learned over these years about Peruvian products 

has been incredible. Some dishes on the menu stay 

the same, others mutate and yet others are replaced 

according to what we are researching. You can eat at 

Central then come back in fifteen days to find new and 

different dishes. 

What do you like most about working there? 

My work involves manual work and I love that. Also, I like 

Virgilio’s aesthetic very much. At Central I’m free to do a 

little of what I want because Virgilio has a lot of confidence 

in me. That makes me happy at my work. 

Gregory de Villers 

Brick Martin 

Central 

What interests you most about cooking in Peru? 

The product is definitely the most interesting thing, it’s 

incredible. Not just the ingredients, but how they are 

used. You have everything here, products from the coast, 

the highlands and the jungle, and they’re all easy to get. 

The diversity is impressive and every time we go on a trip 

what most strikes me is the product. Furthermore, here 

in Central we use products that nobody has cooked with 

before, for example chaco clay. We use it in puddings, in 

salads, in our vegetarian menu, etc. 

What is the most outstanding thing on 

Central’s menu? 

The ingredients and that each dish is the product of deep 

research; each dish has a whole team of people working 

on it. 

What do you most enjoy about living in Lima? 

What I enjoy most is seeing the sea every day. I can walk 

to work and look at the sea as I walk. 

Do you have any new projects with Central? 

The principal project for Central is Central; it is very 

absorbing, but from a positive point of view. It’s a great 

project that is alive all the time, and we’re going so fast 

that at times we don’t realise exactly what we’re doing, 

but there is always something new to work on.

AGENDA 

AGENDA 

MUSEUMS & EXHIBITIONS: 

MALI 

Lima Museum of Art presents a photographic exhibition entitled Las playas 

de Lima, 1978-1991 in the Juan Bautista y Carlos Verme photography 

gallery. The collection includes photographs from artists such as Mariella 

Agois, Juan Enrique Bedoya, Fernando La Rosa, Jaime Razuri and Mariel 

Vidal, showing beaches in the last third of the 20th Century. The exhibition 

runs until the 10th of July and is open from Tuesday to Sunday 10 a.m. to 

7 p.m. and Saturday to 5 p.m. 

MAC 

The Lima Museum of Contemporary Art will host two exhibitions during 

May to September 2016. Separacion is an effort by Roxana Artacho and 

Hector Mata, and discusses inequality in Peruvian society. It runs from 

the 20th of May to the 10th of July. And then there is Vacio Museal, is 

the work of Gustavo Buntinx. The aim of this exhibition is to protect the 

contemporary visual memory, it is a collective exhibition that opens on the 

31st of May and runs until the 25th of September. 

MUSEO PEDRO DE OSMA 

The Pedro de Osma Museum’s cultural exhibition Italian Glamour opened 

on the 15th of May and runs until the 10th of July. It contains more than 

one hundred dresses illustrating the evolution of design from the nineteen 

fifties to the present day. 

MATE 

The MATE - Mario Testino Museum presents an exhibition entitled Nuevas 

Almas Salvajes by Peruvian artist Jose Vera Matos, from the 17th of May 

to the 26th of June. Its contention is that music, culture and language 

show the tensions existing in Latin America since the Spanish conquest. 

The exhibition is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. 

MATE 

Daniel Silva 

FESTIVIties PERu 

CORPUS CHRISTI 

Cusco. Date: June 16th. 

FIESTA DE SAN JUAN 

Celebrated in the Peruvian Amazon. Dates: Iquitos: from June 2nd to 26th; 

Moyobamba: from June 22nd to 30th; Tingo Maria: from June 12th to 

24th; Ucayali: from June 19th to 24th. 

INTI RAYMI 

Cusco. Date: June 24th. 

QOYLLORIT'I 

Cusco. Date: Between May and June. 

LA FIESTA PATRONAL DE SAN PEDRO Y SAN PABLO 

Lima (Chorrillos and Callao) and Chimbote. Date: Last week in June. 

Principal date: June 29th. 

FIESTA DE LA VIRGEN DEL CARMEN 

Paucartambo, Cusco. Date: July 15th and 16th. Main date: July 16th. 

FIESTAS PATRIAS 

The whole country. Date: July 28th and 29th. 

EVENTS / CONCERTS 

From the 20th of May to the 26th of June, producer Preludio presents 

a musical dedicated to Chabuca Granda and entitled Dejame que te 

cuente, in Lima Municipal Theatre. Bookings can be made at Teleticket 

in Wong and Metro. 

The 21st Lima International Book Fair will take place from the 15th 

to the 31st of July in Parque de los Proceres in the District of Jesus 

Maria. This is one of the most important cultural events in Peru. The 

guest country this year is Colombia and the fair will provide a forum 

for its publishers, writers and books. 

O x y g e n E n h a n c e d T o u r i n g 

Alleviates altitude sickness symptoms including shortness of breath, headaches, fatigue and nausea. 

Alivia los síntomas de altitud como la dificultad en la respiración, dolores de cabeza, fatiga y náuseas. 

A higher concentration of oxygen will provide a more relaxing journey. 

Una mayor concentración de oxigeno ayudará al pasajero en tener un viaje más placentero 

Oxygen Cylinders 

Cilindros de Oxígeno 

“The oxygen enriched cabin is effective in preventing altitude sickness. 

Passengers will feel great cruising even this high across the highplateau”. 

40psi Pressure regulator 

Regulador de presión de 40psi 

Oxygen departure valve 

Válvulas de salida de oxígeno 

Low pressure Oxygen line under bus 

Línea de Oxigeno de baja presión debajo del bus 

The additional Oxygen in BusO2, creates a special 

environment 1000m / 3280 ft lower than the actual altitude 

El oxígeno adicional en el Bus, crea un ambiente 

especial 1000m más abajo que la altura real. 

For more information, please contact your Lima Tours 

Specialist or write us to: inbound@limatours.com.pe 

says onboard medical advisor Dr. Dante Valdivia 

Cima Clinic in Cuzco 

"La cabina enriquecida con oxígeno es eficaz para prevenir el mal de altura. Los pasajeros 

pueden estar seguros de sentirse bien incluso en las zonas más altas del Altiplano". 

comentó el médico asesor a bordo Dr. Dante Valdivia 

Clínica Cima en Cuzco 

www.limatours.com.pe 

Driver Panel 

12v o 24v Solenoid Valve 

Válvulas de 12v o 24v 

40sch Flowmeter 

Flujometro de 40sch 

Para más información, favor contáctese con su especialista 

de Lima Tours o escribanos a: inbound@limatours.com.pe

Private sailing on Lake Titicaca, the world’s highest navigable lake.

UJ #11 - Lima

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