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Mini Magazine - Summer 2018

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Tech<br />

<strong>Mini</strong><br />

TECH<br />

<strong>Mini</strong><br />

TECH<br />

The essentials for keeping<br />

your <strong>Mini</strong> on the road.<br />

85 ASK THE EXPERT<br />

Our tech experts answer all your<br />

<strong>Mini</strong> technical queries.<br />

88 PRODUCTS<br />

The latest selection of parts and<br />

goodies to lavish upon your <strong>Mini</strong>.<br />

91 WORKSHOP<br />

In Part Three of our handling series we<br />

look at tracking and how you can<br />

adjust your <strong>Mini</strong>’s suspension.<br />

96 OUR MINIS<br />

The latest from our fleet, this time<br />

featuring Jeroen, Stephen and Neil.<br />

BEFORE<br />

STARTING<br />

The first rule of working on cars<br />

and using tools of any kind is<br />

don’t be stupid. Make sure<br />

personal protective gear –<br />

goggles, gloves, ear defenders,<br />

masks and a set of overalls - are<br />

hanging on a hook in your garage<br />

and use them wisely.<br />

If you’re working with power<br />

tools, protective gear is essential.<br />

Never attempt to work under a<br />

car without supporting it securely<br />

using suitably strong axle stands.<br />

If you haven’t got a fire<br />

extinguisher, buy one and keep it<br />

near to hand. The bottom line? If<br />

you’re not completely confident<br />

of your own ability to complete<br />

any task safely, don’t even start it.<br />

Leave it to the experts.<br />

76<br />

Words and Photography Alex Kinsman<br />

FRONT<br />

REPLACE REPLACE FRONT<br />

WHEEL BEARINGS BEARINGS<br />

WHEEL<br />

Noticing some knocking or droning noise? Save on garage<br />

bills and replace that grumbling wheel bearing yourself.<br />

If the recent IMM in Portugal has taught<br />

us anything, it’s that front wheel bearing<br />

failure is common! And with this is<br />

mind, we thought it would be a good time<br />

to look at how to do the job properly on an<br />

8.4-inch disc brake-equipped <strong>Mini</strong>.<br />

The first thing you will probably notice<br />

when your bearings are on the way out is a<br />

knocking noise whilst cornering, or a<br />

droning noise. If you suspect them to be at<br />

fault, then jack your car up and support it<br />

safely on axle stands. Then grasp the wheel<br />

top and bottom to feel for any play,<br />

observing the ball joints to ensure they are<br />

free from play. If any movement is detected<br />

in the bearings, it’s better to do the job now<br />

than when stranded on a muddy campsite!<br />

Fortunately, replacement is relatively easy<br />

providing you have access to the correct<br />

tools. Other than the usual spanners and<br />

sockets, you will need a torque wrench that<br />

can reach up to 200lb ft, a bench vice or<br />

similar to support the hub and a drift to<br />

knock the races in and out again. New taper<br />

roller bearing kits are available from <strong>Mini</strong><br />

specialists from as little as around £13 – be<br />

sure to state drum or disc brake hubs when<br />

ordering, as the bearings are different.<br />

TIME<br />

Allow two hours per side<br />

COST<br />

Bearing kit for one wheel<br />

from around £13<br />

DIFFICULTY<br />

Original spec bearings usually have<br />

Timken stamped on the inner race, and<br />

command a premium price. Whether or<br />

not you need these depends on your usage<br />

– if you’re driving halfway across Europe or<br />

using the car daily, we’d recommend them.<br />

However, if you’re using your <strong>Mini</strong> more<br />

sparingly, non-genuine items could last for<br />

years providing they are halfway decent.<br />

For this feature we have concentrated on<br />

the taper roller bearings commonly fitted to<br />

<strong>Mini</strong>s with 7.5-inch and 8.4-inch discs.<br />

<strong>Mini</strong>s with 7-inch discs and drum brakes<br />

were fitted with ball-bearing-type wheel<br />

bearings instead. When fitting bearings to<br />

drum brake models you will need to take<br />

note of these exceptions: when removing the<br />

swivel hub you will need to clamp the flexible<br />

brake pipe and unscrew it from the brake<br />

cylinder, as the entire unit needs to come off<br />

the car in one go. Once off the car you will<br />

need to knock out the drive flange from the<br />

swivel hub then remove the brake backplate<br />

by undoing the four retaining bolts. The rest<br />

of the procedure is similar, although the hub<br />

nut will only need to be torqued to 60lb ft.<br />

Here’s the process on an 8.4-inch discequipped<br />

car in full.

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