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Tech<br />
13<br />
Having removed the nuts fully, separate the<br />
track rod end from the steering arm and slide<br />
the ball joint tapers out of the bottom and<br />
top suspension arms. Removing the bottom<br />
ball joint first makes this easier.<br />
14<br />
You should now be able to withdraw the hub<br />
completely. Use a soft-face mallet to tap the<br />
end of the driveshaft if it won’t slide off<br />
easily, whilst supporting the hub.<br />
15<br />
Use a bench vice to grip the swivel hub whilst you dismantle it. We began by removing the<br />
outer grease seal using a pry bar or similar tool – it should just prise out. These parts won’t<br />
be re-used so bin them.<br />
16<br />
Remove the outer bearing race and spacer,<br />
then flip the hub and withdraw the<br />
corresponding seal and inner race. You may<br />
find a grease seal spacer ring. Keep it if you<br />
wish, but it was deleted on later cars.<br />
17<br />
Now the tricky bit. Both sets of bearings will<br />
have an outer track, which are an<br />
interference fit in the hub. Use a drift to<br />
gently tap them out, moving it from one side<br />
to another to prevent the track getting stuck.<br />
18<br />
Clean the inside of the hub to get rid of all the old grease and muck, which will accelerate<br />
wear. Inspect them for damage too - they may need replacing if someone has been too<br />
heavy-handed in the past.<br />
80
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