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THE THIN MIDWINTER sun makes<br />

little impression on what is usually the<br />

loneliest part of Salisbury Plain. Here, the<br />

only road is long-barred, with seven miles<br />

of muddy track and just the crows for company.<br />

Then, dipping into a valley, excited chatter<br />

fills the air. Folk wrapped warmly in bright<br />

bobble hats and cosy scarves file uphill towards<br />

a 13th century parish church which glows with<br />

candlelight in every window. Its porch is a<br />

welcome sparkle of tea lights, greenery and good<br />

cheer, and the delicious aroma of mulled wine<br />

hangs in the air like a fragrant mist. Inside,<br />

a brass band is warming up, and members of a<br />

choir are taking their places between jewel-bright<br />

floral displays, lights flickering in wall sconces<br />

and bedecking a twinkling Christmas tree.<br />

Every pew, chair and seat has been pressed<br />

into service, which may be considered odd, given<br />

that this particular parish has no congregation.<br />

The ghost village of Imber, once a thriving rural<br />

community, has not seen a single resident for 75<br />

years. On 17 December 1943, Imber’s entire<br />

population left, never to return.<br />

Within only a few weeks of this departure,<br />

the village was shelled beyond habitation, used<br />

for pre-D-Day target practice by the British<br />

Army and newly-arrived Allied troops. ›<br />

Under the pale<br />

golden limestone<br />

arches of St Giles’<br />

Church, worshippers<br />

congregate in<br />

remembrance of a<br />

time when Imber<br />

was just a normal<br />

community.<br />

POIGNANT PILGRIMAGE<br />

98

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