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Caribbean Beat — March/April 2019 (#156)

A calendar of events; music, film, and book reviews; travel features; people profiles, and much more.

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where he joined the Merchant Navy. He spent<br />

eleven years working on tankers in the Middle<br />

East, Southeast Asia, and South America <strong>—</strong> far<br />

from verdant and fertile Moruga. He returned<br />

to Trinidad in 2003, launched his own marine<br />

services company, and took up residence near<br />

Port of Spain. Rice farming was the furthest thing<br />

from his mind.<br />

After speaking with his uncles at the time of<br />

his father’s illness, Forgenie started exploring the<br />

reasons why hill rice had declined so badly, and<br />

sought to rediscover for himself the art of rice<br />

farming. His first stop was the farm of Miss Patrice,<br />

an eighty-six-year-old woman.<br />

“I was working for myself, so I had the time,”<br />

Forgenie says. “For two months, I would drive<br />

down on a weekend, stay at my family’s house<br />

in Basse Terre, and go see what Miss Patrice was<br />

doing. Soon enough, I realised that rice work is so<br />

labour intensive, it just turns you off.”<br />

“The tradition was, from the start of<br />

December through January we would eat<br />

rice on a Sunday,” says Mark Forgenie<br />

But he was not dissuaded. Inspired by what<br />

his father’s neurosurgeon had told him about the<br />

benefits of hill rice, Forgenie felt he had to do something.<br />

“Dr Maharaj never did the research, but<br />

had anecdotal evidence from his stroke patients<br />

who used the rice as a porridge every morning<br />

and evening as part of their therapy. He said they<br />

recovered in half the usual time, and ninety per<br />

cent of them recovered. I realised there was a<br />

medical and scientific thing about this rice, that’s<br />

not like other rice.”<br />

So, since 2009, when his father had that stroke,<br />

Forgenie <strong>—</strong> supported by his wife Cassie<br />

<strong>—</strong> has been literally travelling the world to<br />

find ways to make the farming of Moruga hill rice<br />

more efficient and profitable. He set up Vista Dorado<br />

Estates on his family’s land, with the belief that<br />

farming could be made easier if there was equipment<br />

suited to the hilly terrain of Moruga. “I knew the<br />

answer was mechanisation, but there was no research<br />

about it. I went to the Ministry of Agriculture and<br />

they said they tried it, but they failed.”<br />

He was told by ministry officials that he should<br />

expect to fail as well, as there was no equipment on<br />

the market that could help. Forgenie was amazed<br />

at the negativity. However, once you meet Mark<br />

Forgenie, it doesn’t take long to recognise that he’s<br />

passionate, determined, and extremely astute.<br />

After failed experiments with local heavy<br />

equipment distributors, Forgenie sat down and<br />

drew a model of the kind of equipment he felt was<br />

needed for the terrain in Moruga. His quest for the<br />

right equipment took him to China, where he met<br />

with a company who bought one of his designs.<br />

They were so impressed, they took it into mass<br />

production, and Forgenie is now the <strong>Caribbean</strong><br />

distributor.<br />

Having solved that part of the equation, it was<br />

all systems go. The Forgenies set out their plans for<br />

getting Moruga hill rice into the mainstream, via<br />

their company <strong>Caribbean</strong> Sea and Air Marketing.<br />

They worked closely with government agencies,<br />

and developed highly positive relationships with the<br />

Intellectual Property Office and ExportTT, Trinidad<br />

and Tobago’s national export facilitation agency.<br />

ExportTT helped the Forgenies with courses<br />

in key areas like the principles of packaging and<br />

labelling. And in 2018, <strong>Caribbean</strong> Sea and Air<br />

Marketing received a TT$317,000 grant from the<br />

Ministry of Trade to improve technology in their<br />

manufacturing process.<br />

“As an outsider, someone who never grew up<br />

in Moruga, I wondered, why is this rice not on the<br />

shelves?” says Cassie Forgenie. “We had to package<br />

the rice professionally, because traditionally,<br />

it was sold in a paper bag at the San Fernando<br />

Market.”<br />

She explains that a major turning point came at<br />

T&T’s 2018 Trade and Investment Convention, one<br />

of the biggest trade shows in the <strong>Caribbean</strong>. Here<br />

the Forgenies met with officials from S.M. Jaleel,<br />

a beverage company that sells their drinks up the<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> and through the <strong>Caribbean</strong> diaspora.<br />

The result was an international distribution agreement<br />

for Moruga hill rice. You can now find Vista<br />

Dorado Moruga hill rice on the shelves at all major<br />

supermarkets in T&T.<br />

I’ve tried the rice myself, and I can attest to<br />

its delicious nutty flavour, particularly enhanced<br />

when cooked with coconut milk and bay leaf.<br />

Vista Dorado’s lineup includes plain rice as well<br />

as varieties flavoured with geera, lemon pepper,<br />

and even Scorpion pepper, for adventurous types.<br />

You can also try that healthy porridge, made with<br />

ground rice flavoured with cocoa, nutmeg, and<br />

other spices. A small cookbook is in the works.<br />

After the Forgenies received their government<br />

grant, an editorial in the T&T Newsday called it<br />

“a healthy serving of good sense, reminding us<br />

of how our unique place in the world, our unique<br />

history, can be leveraged as a resource to return<br />

us to the path of economic growth.” Plus, Moruga<br />

hill rice is delicious <strong>—</strong> a winning formula in the<br />

ongoing campaign to make the most of indigenous<br />

<strong>Caribbean</strong> foodways. n<br />

48 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM

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