Viva Brighton Issue #74 April 2019

FOOD
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The Roundhill
Vegan invention
The botanical and the industrial
collide in the newly redecorated
interior of The Roundhill. The
pub has recently been renamed
back to The Roundhill from
The Jolly Poacher – a popular
reversion according to the
staff I chat to. It feels light
and airy, but noisy enough
to be atmospheric, and there
are flowers on the tables,
illustrations on the walls, a
model aeroplane on the ceiling,
but nothing too overbearing.
The menu is wholly vegetarian,
and we are told that all of the dishes can be
made vegan. This prompted discussion between
me and my guest: vegan and vegetarian places
often seem to try harder to come up with new
ways to flavour and present food. Even as a
carnivore, I’m increasingly starting to seek out
nice vegan and vegetarian places, to explore the
invention on offer.
This Shackletonian spirit of exploration
certainly bore fruit at The Roundhill. The
cauliflower wings starter (£5.50) came
recommended so my friend plumped for that,
while I opted for the mushroom & tofu gyoza
(£6.50) with a coriander dip. The gyoza were
good: the wrapper was chewy, the mushroom
bits moreish. But the wings had a brilliant smoky
and sweet coating, and the cauliflower was
succulent. The cauliflower gazumped the gyoza!
It beggars belief: I love gyoza. A gyoza is an
oily indulgent treat whereas cauliflower is a sad
vegetable, to be tolerated rather than savoured…
right? No! Folly! It was also fun to eat healthily
while feeling like you’re eating something more
Photo by Nammie Matthews
indulgent, with the wings
designed to emulate buffalo
wings.
The main was similarly
revelatory for my dining
companion. She went for
The Roundhill Burger,
which included vegan
smoked gouda, gherkins,
fries and slaw (£12.50). She
raved about it being the
best vegan burger she’d ever
tried, explaining that it tasted
proteiny and even meaty,
feeling more substantial
and heartier than lesser vegetarian patties. “It’s
like sorcery!”, she exclaimed. We even liked the
vegan cheese, and having tasted it myself I can
confirm that it worked as a tasty burger.
I chose the green pesto tagliatelle with a winning
combination of good things: cashews, heritage
tomatoes, spinach and parmesan (£8.50). The
pesto (always a champion flavour) was subtle and
fresh: I enjoyed every mouthful of the simple
but effective main, while also appreciating a
deceptively deep plate.
We were too full to try out the vegan pancakes
on the dessert menu, a damned shame since the
candied pecans and hazelnuts called out to us
both. We settled for Scrabble and pints however,
with a strong selection of ales, lagers and ciders
to choose from, including Harvey’s Best and
a Gun Pale Ale. A welcoming pub and a great
restaurant, either for bites and beers (skin-on
fries for £3 is generous by Brighton standards),
or for a full meal with friends and family.
Joe Fuller
100 Ditchling Road, 01273 235884
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