Inspiring Women Summer 2019

June 2019, Volume 3, Issue 2
September 2017, Volume 1, Issue 3
1

INSPIRATION IN THIS ISSUE
The Travel Issue – A Brief Intro 4
Nairobi, Kenya: A Life Spent in Africa 5
Basel, Switzerland: Guiding Visitors to the City 9
Luxembourg: Small But Perfectly Formed! 15
Bogotá, Colombia: Flying All Over the World 19
Copenhagen, Denmark: Dancing the Tango 26
Casablanca, Morocco: In the Spice Market 30
Lyon, France: Interpreting What I See 33
Nairobi, Kenya: A Second View 41
Bern, Switzerland: From Peru to Europe 44
Genoa, Italy: Cruising Round the World 50
Berkshire, England: From Australia With Love 53
Frankfurt, Germany: Walking Tours 60
Marrakesh, Morocco: Magical Medinas 63
Barcelona, Spain: Remember to Look Up 65
OUR FEATURES
Paris, France: April 15, 2019 - The Fire 13
Be Our Guest. Just Don’t Let the Cat Out 23
Just For Fun 1 32
The Beauty of Kenya: A Poem 36
Inspiring Women Travel Quiz 37
The Journey: 1975/76 in the USA 48
IN EVERY ISSUE
Inspiration From the Editor 3
From the Cover Coordinator 3
Inspiring You 68
Magazine Feedback 68
More About This Issue 69
A Club Inspires: AWC Bogotá 56
Just For Fun 2 62
Dalmahoy Hotel p.12 Janet Darrow p.35
London & Capital p.18 The Pajama Company p.25
ADVERTISERS’
INDEX
Inspiring Women would like to thank our long-term advertisers for supporting us:
Janet Darrow, The Pajama Company and London & Capital. For this special
“travel issue” we welcome the Dalmahoy Hotel and Country Club from
Edinburgh, Scotland, the venue for FAWCO’s recent Biennial Conference.
FAWCO club members - do you want to take your business worldwide? Consider advertising in
Inspiring Women. Contact Elsie Bose at advertising@fawco.org to get started. We offer great rates
and comprehensive packages for almost any budget.
2

Inspiration From the Editor
This issue is all
about travel so I
thought I would
see what the
internet had to say
about it:
T r a v e l T r i v i a
( i n f o r m a t i o n
c o u r t e s y o f
Wikipedia)
Travel is the
m o v e m e n t o f
p e o p l e b e t w e e n d i s t a n t
geographical locations and travellers are
those who travel. Personally, I think you
could quite legitimately also define a
traveller as a woman involved in FAWCO!
We’ve all travelled at least once from our
home countries and often many times. The
women in this issue of Inspiring Women are
no different.
The origin of the word "travel", first used in
the 14th century, may be from the Old
French word travail, which means “work”.
According to Simon Winchester in his
book The Best Travelers' Tales (2004), the
word "travel" has an ancient root: a Roman
instrument of torture called the tripalium. It
makes you realise that travel in ancient
times must have been somewhat different
to what we think of when we use the word
today (although I’m sure we’ve all got our
tale of travel woe to share!)
Today we can travel relatively easily and
quickly depending on our destination. It’s
quite something to remember that
Christopher Columbus took over 10 weeks
to get to his final destination, a journey that
today would take just a few hours.
Travel for pleasure dates back to the
wealthy Greeks and Romans who travelled
for leisure to their summer homes and villas.
Then in the late 16th century it became
fashionable for young Europeans to do a
“Grand Tour” round Europe as part of their
education. It wasn’t until the advent of the
railway networks in the 19th century that
more people could travel for fun as travel
was no longer a hard and challenging task.
Since then a whole travel industry has
grown up and we haven’t looked back!
So that’s travel according to the internet. Now
for travel according to a group of FAWCO
women from around the world. Hope you
enjoy the read! Don’t forget to complete our
survey to let us know what you think (p. 68)....
Best wishes, Liz x
Liz MacNiven,
inspiringwomen.editor@fawco.org
From the Cover Coordinator
The cover photo for this issue is made up of photographs taken by Fannie
Kakonge and Patricia Jentz, the FAWCO Co-Representatives of AWA
(American Women's Association) Kenya. The beautiful Maasai ladies
Fannie met in Nairobi and the animals shot "live" by Patricia, depict the
specificities of this country and reveal its wild beauty .
If you have a photo that you would like to see on a future cover of
Inspiring Women, you can reach me, Marie-Bénédicte Luxem, at
inspiringwomen.cover@fawco.org. There are full details of the photo
requirements on page 56 of this magazine. Please note: we can only
accept portrait orientation images.
3

“I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list.”
— Susan Sontag
Welcome to our first “travel issue”! We thought that the best way to get you around
the world was to ask FAWCO members to tell us about how they came to fall in love
with the cities that they live in and tell us how they have been able to convert that
love in way that can be shared with others.
When we meet other FAWCO club members we know that we have at least one
thing in common: the desire to take adventures beyond our borders and experience
things that make us grow and expand our personal horizons. We are curious. But we
are not afraid.
And let’s reflect on those experiences. For me, it has been laying a wreath as part of
a delegation commemorating the 50 th anniversary of D-Day in Bastogne, attending a
cocktail party inside the Kremlin, visiting the sights of Jerusalem, taking the most
breath-taking morning run around the Wohlensee in Switzerland (Yes! The hills were
actually alive with the sound of...music!) and achieving a lifelong dream to visit China
and walk on the Great Wall.
Over the years, one of the wonderful aspects of being part of FAWCO is talking to
members of clubs from other cities. No matter how remote or exotic a place is, to
them it is their home away from home and there is something unique about it that
they willingly share. Sometimes it’s something they don’t tell friends and family back
home, but they’ll share with you because as a FAWCO club member we do have
that one thing in common. We are curious. We are not afraid- we get it.
Elsie Bose
4

Nairobi, Kenya: A Life Spent in Africa
TERESA HANDA
American Women’s Association of Kenya
From: California
Lives: Nairobi, Kenya
I spent most of my childhood in sunny Southern
California in a lovely small town surrounded by
orange groves. Everyone knew their neighbors and
were connected in many ways. My father was a big
fan of camping and fishing; he gave me exposure to
wilderness training and a love for nature and the
great outdoors. My mother, “a people person”, had
a passion for helping others and recruited her
children to help her with her church charities.
After high school I attended several colleges over a
period of 8 years and moved to many cities in
California: in South Lake Tahoe, I was a maid; in
Sacramento, I was a live-in attendant for an elderly
person; in Reseda I was a live-in student with a family
while doing mostly computer and office work for companies in the San Fernando Valley and
attending college at night. I graduated from Pierce College with degree in Graphic Design
then went to Northridge University where I studied Business Administration. These experiences
made me flexible and accommodating.
While working for an NGO in Ventura County California I developed a software program to
track and report to 11 affiliate countries 21,000 sponsored children in Africa. Through this I ended
up going to Kenya in the early 80’s, eventually becoming the East African Coordinator and
managing educational programs and working in Uganda, Democratic Republic of Congo
(DRC) and Kenya. I found the
women in these countries very
loving and welcoming even if we
didn’t speak the same language.
Our NGO hired an accountant
whom travelled with me to 8 field
offices in three African countries.
While travelling and working
together in very remote unsecure
areas Molongo, DRC and
Karamoja, Uganda we fell in
love. My husband now of 33
years came home to California
with me to ask my father for my
hand in marriage in 1986. I was 29
years old at the time.
5
Me in Africa in the 80’s

Deepak and I lived in Southern California two
years before returning to live in Kenya. In late
80’s Kenya everyone knew each other and
there was trust and bartering between
neighbors and merchants; for example when
you went to the grocery store if you didn’t
have any money, they would just write your
name and amount owed in an exercise book
and you paid on your next visit. Living and
working in Nairobi you felt like you were in a
small town, like the one where I grew up.
In 2002 we returned to the United States and
bought a 55-room franchise hotel in South
Carolina. But after 8 years we sold our hotel Children learning about their culture
and moved back to Kenya. When arriving
back, Nairobi had greatly changed however; I still found many of the friendly generous
accommodating merchants and people I had left behind were still where I had left them. The
newspaper man on the corner selling papers, our vegetable lady still came to my mother-inlaw’s
home and a few of my old friends had not left the country. Nairobi still felt like home.
I joined AWA upon my return to Kenya and found many women were new to Nairobi and
needed to feel comfortable and familiar with their surroundings. My new friends also had many
foreign visitors they wanted to show Nairobi. Taking them around Nairobi the city I know so well
was sheer joy for me and seeing their amazement of the unique animals and places in Nairobi.
They also needed help with practical everyday living in Nairobi as finding similar ingredients to
cook with which can be a challenge for someone from another country. Connecting new
women with Kenyan women is exciting too. We have so much in common and so much we can
learn from each other.
IN CONVERSATION WITH TERESA...
What are your top 5 places to visit where you
live?
1. Daphne Sheldrick’s elephant orphanage
because of all the new personalities of
elephants I see each time I visit and it is in
beautiful nature surrounds on a hill
overlooking the national game park.
2. Zen Restaurant because of the large
Feng Shui designed garden and healthy
locally grown vegetables and, luckily for
me, I know the owner.
3. Hemmingways for High Tea – Love the
décor and landscaping and the ceramic
tea pots and cakes they serve.
4. The National Game Park – I like the
openness and adventure of watching
beautiful African animals in their natural
environment and homes.
5. Sweet Waters in Nanyuke 2 hours drive.
You will see all the game you would see
in the Mara in a small area at the base of
beautiful Mt. Kenya located in Ol Jogi
Wildlife conservancy. Sweet Waters is
clean and comfortable with a tented
camp overlooking wildlife water whole.
One morning I got up and could see the
sun rising above the snow-covered peaks
of Mt. Kenya and about 30 giraffes
drinking at the waterhole. It was like a
ballet. So natural and graceful.
6

Tell us about a typical day for you. Leave
home at 10 am to miss the traffic. Arrive at
Daphne Sheldrick’s Elephant orphanage
located in the Nairobi National Game Park on
the south side of Nairobi at 11am. The area is
bush like so it is advisable to wear casual jeans
and tennis shoes.
Daphne by God’s grace was given a small
bungalow in the National Park after her
husband died where she started a trust in her
husband’s name for orphaned elephants. I
have found zebra and rhino there on occasion
too. I have been visiting this location since it
started in the 1980’s and seen the babies
increase in number. I am thankful for Daphne’s
compassion and commitment to these
beautiful little ones.
The baby elephants are
fascinating to watch. They
remind me of naughty
children. They sometimes will
come under the perimeter
rope and wipe mud all over
you if you are not careful. The
orphanage is open only for an
hour when they feed the baby
elephants at the waterhole.
12 pm we continue only 10
minutes away to the Giraffe
Manor where we stand on a
wooden gazebo and feed
giraffes for about 30 minutes!
It’s beautiful and breathtaking
to find yourself standing next to
a 6.1 metre tall velvet coated
Tribal dancing display in Nairobi
animal with black eyes the
size of golf balls; the giraffes
are very friendly.
12:45 pm we travel another
10 mins to Utamadumi for
lunch and shopping. It was
started by Maive Leakey, Dr.
Richard Leakey’s wife,
collecting fine African
handcrafts from across Africa.
This is a two-story house with
16 rooms of items from baby
cloths to kitchen wares. The
garden restaurant there has
excellent sandwiches.
After lunch we travel through
beautiful Langata up market
neighborhood to the suburb of Karen (where
Out of Africa was filmed) and the story
originated to a ceramic bead factory for a
tour and shopping.
3 pm we drive a very short distance for High
Tea at Hemingway's, owned by Richard
Branson (Virgin Airways). Stepping out of the
car at the front entrance you feel you are
stepping into another world, very simple, clean
and luxurious. High Tea is served every day
from 3pm to 5pm on the back veranda of the
hotel that looks out over the famous Ngong
hills. Tea includes your choice of hot beverage
and three trays with scones, layered cakes
and finger sandwiches.
4 pm back to Nairobi after a full day.
7

What is the best-kept secret in your city? First
are the back roads to avoid traffic around
Nairobi and second is Karura Forest (2,570
acres), just 15 minutes away from Nairobi city
center and you are in a beautiful quiet forest
filled with well-posted walking paths and a
large lily pond and a substantial water fall! My
husband and I walk 5 miles through this lush
indigenous forest almost every Sunday.
What is the one thing you see someone do that
makes you know that they are a tourist? Allow
hawkers in the vegetable or artisan markets to
look among the vendors for whatever the
tourists are trying to find. The hawkers will chat
them up then take them to the artisan or
vegetable stands to meet the vendor and the
vendor will add an additional 20% on to the
price to pay the hawker.
If you could travel to one place you’ve never
been, where would it be? Cape Town the
oldest South African City. There are lots of
beautiful beaches, horseback safaris, diverse
landscape, it’s clean, with all the
conveniences of a developed country and I
have two friends that live in the area.
What is your “other” favorite city in the world?
Leicester in the UK. Leicester has lovely green
fields and sheep farms and canals and walking
paths with great shopping areas.
What is your favorite mode of transport? Train
because I like to see the landscape and
people as I travel through and enjoy sleeping
on the train.
You Tube video of Kenya
8

Basel, Switzerland: Guiding Visitors to the City
DEANNA BRITTAIN
American Women’ Club of Basel, Switzerland
From: Henderson, North Carolina
Lives: Basel, Switzerland
I grew up in Hendersonville, North Carolina on my family’s
apple farm. I remember my mother would encourage my
sister and me to play outside and imagine what could be…
For me, this meant pretending to prepare and serve elegant
meals to people who were wealthy and world-travelled.
These delicious meals were made out of mud, presented on
the old pottery my parents used when they were first
married. I would also pretend that my bicycle would propel
me to far away lands that I read about in the Encyclopedia
Britannica books that my parents purchased from a door-todoor
salesman one summer. Every Saturday morning meant
that I would get to accompany my mother to the salon
where she had her hair styled. I was inspired by all the
magazines and dreamt about the faraway places I would visit, the exotic foods I could eat and
the fashion I could see.
Once I left home and finished college, I was soon married and then along came my son and
daughter. I worked part-time until Christopher and Megan were in high school. I worked for
Continental Airlines so, as a family, we could travel the world. I believed that traveling outside
our comfort zones and realizing that we
are not the only people on the planet was
the best education I could give my
children. My husband and I love to travel
to any country where we can enjoy the
local culture with cuisine and wine. Our
favorite wine country is Italy. We fantasize
about owning a vineyard one day.
My husband’s job moved us from North
Carolina to Atlanta, Georgia to Miami,
Florida and then to Basel, Switzerland.
Through our life in Basel I’ve found myself
wanting to share its culture and history
with others. In addition to sharing this with
my family and friends who visit, what
better way to help make a memorable
impression of Basel for others than the
captive audience a local river cruise
company provides?
9

IN CONVERSATION WITH DEANNA…
What are your top 5 places to visit where you
live and why?
1. The Muenster Church and Muenster Square
for its rich history dating back to the First
Century. The actual church turns 1000 years
old this year!
2. Mittlere Bruecke - The Middle Bridge:
Originally built in the 13th century by Emperor
Heinrich II. and constructed of wood and
stone so that it could be burned down, if
needed, to protect the city. The bridge today
is reconstructed out of stone to allow the trams
to cross. It is the oldest crossing point on the
Rhine between Lake Constance and the North
Sea. Death sentences were carried out here
by throwing people who committed crimes off
the bridge into the Rhine until about 1600,
when most criminals had learned how to swim.
3. A long walk down Freiestrasse to Marktplatz
to Schifflaende and over the Mittlere Bruecke
every Saturday with my husband after we
have coffee. We shop for food at the farmer’s
market while sampling a variety of cheeses
and have lunch at an Irish pub before
returning home in the afternoon.
4. The Blue and White Houses - Very large
stately homes built just after the reformation
and still well kept today by the Basel
Government and used as offices for Social
Services and Environment. Rich in the history of
the beginning of the chemical industry, which
then morphed into the pharmaceutical
industry that eventually brought us to Basel for
my husband’s career.
At the Muenster Kirche
5. My favorite place to ski is in Zermatt,
Switzerland. We spend a week every
December/January and include our family
from the US whenever possible. It is truly a
Winter Wonderland.
Tell us about a typical day for you A typical
day with guests from our local
river cruise company consists of
helping plan their time in Basel.
Guiding them through the Old
Town of Basel on a 2-hour
historical walking tour, pointing
out monuments, buildings,
churches and giving them facts
and some fun stories about living
in Switzerland. Most guests are
fascinated about what they see
and hear on my tour, but mostly
ask questions about why I came
to live here and how life in
another country compares to
the USA. (95% of our guests are
from the USA).
10

Skiing at Zermatt
If you could travel to one place you’ve never
been, where would it be? Egypt. I have always
been intrigued by Cleopatra’s history and all of
the pyramids there.
What is your “other” favorite city in the world?
Vienna, Austria. I love the musical history, the
art and the architecture there.
What is your favorite mode of transport and
why? Train. I love taking the train throughout
Switzerland and seeing the snow-covered
villages that you cannot see by car. Also, the
train just lulls you into a peacefulness like
nothing else.
I will also suggest restaurants and make dinner
reservations; teach guests how to use the
trams (public transport); help them find the
museums and/or get them set up at the train
station to take a day trip to the Alps.
What is the best-kept secret in your city/
country? The wine from the Valais region is
exceptionally delicious for Switzerland.
Hosting an AWC Basel Christmas Tea
What is the one thing you see someone do that
makes you know that they are a tourist? When
I hear someone in the Marktplatz farmers’
market asking if the merchants accept US
Dollars for payment. ;-) Or if I hear someone
speaking American English asking for directions
to the Old Town.
You Tube video of Switzerland
11

12
"Wherever you
go becomes a
part of you,
somehow."
Indian Novelist,
Anita Desai

Paris, France: April 15, 2019 - The Fire
I did not look at the north rose window as I hurried into
the chancel to make my announcement for the 2:30
tour. I never do. The north rose is enchanting. If I look
at it for even a second, I will delay, and I will be late. I
have been doing this for twelve years next month, and
I know my weaknesses.
Announcement made, I walked back to the front of
the cathedral with my new, wonderful, official “ND”
flag in hand, (burnt now, I suppose,) to see the results. I
had 42 people on my tour. Way too many, but most of
the stalwart souls who couldn’t really hear me stuck it
out until the end. I suspect that now they, like me, will
have a story to tell their grandchildren.
I live a three-minute walk from Notre Dame Cathedral
of Paris, on the south side of the Seine. On that day I
was sitting at my computer when I got a text message
from Rebecca Bouygues at 7:28 pm: “NDP on fire! Go
look!” Rebecca is a fellow guide, President of the
American Catholic Women’s Organization and the
legendary brownie maker of the Association of
American Women in Europe (AAWE). Suffice it to say, she is not given to hyperbole. I grabbed
my coat, my keys, my ND badge and my phone and ran out onto the Quai de la Tournelle. Cars
were still going past. It all happened so very quickly. I saw the flames. I saw the roof on fire. I saw
the spire collapse. I remember holding onto a stanchion for support. Finally, chased out by the
police, I went home to watch TV. I went back out an hour or so later to join the vigil in the street.
I live almost equidistant from Sallie Chaballier and Suzanne Wheeler (and, yes, that does make
for a great volunteer opportunity, my dear FAWCO friends). My internet and TV were out the
following day - because of the fire or all the TV trucks, no idea, so I didn’t see pictures of the TV
cameras posed on Suzanne’s balcony or the soot than fell near her apartment until much later.
Notre Dame has been my pierre
d’angle (Editor’s note: in case
your French isn’t up to it, this
means cornerstone!) since I
arrived in Paris in 2004. Everyone
seems to know this. I have said
an embarrassing number of
times about ND, that I can bore
the living s**t out of every soul
on God’s green earth. So I
received innumerable texts,
phone calls and e-mails
Monday evening - many from
FAWCO friends who have been
subjected to my ranting on
about Louis XI and XIII and XIV
and XIII and XVII and so on.
13

Hysteria spreads quickly and, at one point, I was told that the bells were melting. The funniest
question was from a friend who asked me if I had a “firesafe.” I replied that I have a dandy, cast
iron Le Creuset pot, in which I keep my passport and some emergency cash. As a fully efficient
FAWCO gal, the passport and emergency cash were, of course, in a Ziplock bag inside the Le
Creuset pot. Still are.
Yesterday I was so bereaved, I could barely speak. When I was out walking, trying to get close
to the cathedral’s north side, I ran into a French friend. He told me the flying buttresses had
moved. Since the flying buttresses were built specifically to withstand stress, that seemed
alarming but okay. As I had given what was, almost certainly, the last tour in English, I got
interviewed by the British TV channel, Channel 4.
Today, things are looking up. The millions and millions of euros needed to rebuild Notre Dame
are pouring in. Most of the
artworks seem to have been
saved. It appears that the
iconic 14 th century Virgin of the
Pillar is still standing. And the
famous pieta in the chancel
seems to have come through
the blaze more or less intact.
Yesterday, it seemed that I
might not get back into the
Cathedral in my lifetime,
remembering that it took Viollet
-le-Duc and his team 20 years
to restore ND in the mid-19 th
century. But, as I write this,
architects are already arguing
(it’s France) and theorizing (it’s Notre Dame before the fire
France) about how to rebuild a
different roof, as there are not 1,300, 800-year-old oak beams to be found anywhere.
I am remembering my own words. When people would ask me, “When was Notre Dame
finished?” I always responded that the custodians were continually fiddling with things. At one
of our obligatory volunteer meetings, the topic under discussion was “The Modern Windows.” I
assumed, of course, that this meant the abstract, post WWII stained glass windows by Jacques
le Chevalier. Nope. In Notre Dame terms, “modern” meant the 19 th century windows by Didron
and his team.
This time round, Notre Dame will be even more modern. By necessity. And with any luck at all, I’ll
still be around to give another tour.
Rebecca DeFraites has called Paris home for 15 years. She and her late husband, Gerry, sold
their house in New Orleans, retired and moved to Paris in 2004. She is a past President of AWG
Paris and is also a member of AAWE. She served as interim FAWCO 2 nd VP, from 2016 – 2017,
and has held the position of FAWCO Membership Chair since 2017. She is also past President of
the American Catholic Women’s Organization (of Paris.)
When not in Paris, you will likely find Rebecca on a home exchange. She and Gerry began
exchanging their home in 1987 (New Orleans and then Paris) and, to date, she has completed
50 successful home exchanges. This summer she will be in San Francisco, Washington DC and
New Orleans, while other liked-minded, intrepid souls are in her Paris apartment. Although she
will, sadly, not be giving tours of Notre Dame for a while, she assures me that no grass will be
growing under her feet.
14

Luxembourg: Small But Perfectly Formed!
HELENA NOWAK-SMITH
American Women’s Club of Luxembourg
From: Bexley, UK
Lives: Wasserbillig, Luxembourg
I grew up in Bexley, a suburb just southeast of London,
England, in the county of Kent – a very stable upbringing
attending local schools and making some great friends
who I still see today when I’m back in the UK. I went on to
study chemistry at the University of Exeter and thoroughly
enjoyed student life down in Devon, at the same time
realizing that chemistry was never going to be my
choice of career! As a student, I spent two summers with
friends travelling around Europe by train on an Interrail
pass – so maybe that’s where I caught the travel bug.
A post-university temp job for a major building society
gave me the opportunity to apply for permanent
positions internally – so I landed in the financial services world by chance. My research and
analysis background turned out to be good grounding for analysing competitor companies,
which I did for several years. I stayed with the same business, and the bank that acquired it, for
my entire UK career, morphing into various different roles and lastly a communications position -
writing and editing financial content for different media, amongst other things.
In my single days, I was fortunate to get to travel to several places in the US, courtesy of friends
of friends (so no accommodation costs!) – including Texas, Alaska, California and New York City
– as well as taking plenty of the usual sun-based holidays to various Greek and Spanish islands,
and European city breaks.
In 2010 my husband was asked to
extend his contract with a UK company
in order to cover a vacant role in
Luxembourg, flying in and out each
week from the UK, for six months. He
was soon offered the job on a
permanent basis, and I applied for a
career break from my job in London.
We made the full-time move to Lux in
2011 and have been here ever since,
recently moving from the suburbs of
Luxembourg City to the wine-growing
region along the River Moselle, on the
country’s border with Germany.
Luxembourg is a small country, but
charms many who take the time to
appreciate it, and persuades a lot of us
who only intended to stay a short while
With Ian on the Biltmore Estate
15

to put down deeper roots. So, I guess I like to share that thought with visiting friends and anyone
who’s interested.
The country’s nationality requirements changed a couple of years ago, making it easier for
foreigners like myself to acquire citizenship. So, after taking a year to learn the Luxembourgish
language and finding out more about the country in citizenship classes, I became keener to get
involved. My citizenship finally came through earlier this year, so I now have dual British-
Luxembourgish nationality. (The reason I’m looking so pleased in my headshot photo is that I’d
just found out I’d passed the language exams!)
I organize a monthly meeting at AWCL called Travel Talk, the main feature of which is that each
month a member talks about her home city, region or country – or one she knows well – as a
potential travel destination. We also make time to share our own recent travel experiences,
recommend upcoming events or ask each other travel questions. It’s proved to be a popular
formula. Thanks to the generosity of our speakers giving their time to prepare and to speak, and
we’ve managed to cover many places
in Europe and beyond, but there are
plenty more still to explore!
Afterwards, we go and try out a local
restaurant – in keeping with the country
theme if possible, or otherwise,
somewhere new to the group.
My Travel Talk co-host, Mary Jo
Magruder, was instrumental in pulling
together a series of chats called “Living
in Luxembourg” to help newcomers
learn about various practical aspects
of life in the Grand Duchy, such as the
health system, public transportation
and pet care, in an informal way. I AWC Luxembourg Travel Talk Group
facilitate the “Ticket to Ride” public
transport chat, explaining how best to use the bus, train and tram here, and hopefully
encouraging members to leave the car at home sometimes.
IN CONVERSATION WITH HELENA…
What are your top 5 places to visit where you
live and why? In Luxembourg City, the Grund
area, for its picturesque bridges, views to the
upper old towns, steep cobbled streets and
the Abbaye Neumunster courtyard, looking up
to the centuries-old Bock casemates dug into
the rock walls of the valley.
Also in Lux City, but in the newer Kirchberg
quarter, for the contrast between the very
modern, multi-pillared Philharmonie concert
hall, the nearby Mudam Museum (Grand Duke
Jean Museum of Contemporary Art) built into
the partly restored Dräi Eechelen fortress,
(which also houses another museum) and the
view back across the valley to the old city.
The Mullerthal, or “Little Switzerland” region, for
its hiking trails between unusual rock formations
and the cute little Schiessentümpel Waterfall,
whose wooden bridge makes me think of
somewhere a hobbit might live.
Bourscheid Castle, although mainly ruined, it’s
one of the few key Luxembourg tourist sights
that stays open throughout the winter. It
occupies the top of a hill in a river bend, so
looks spectacular viewed from the other side
of the river or above.
The Moselle River, for enjoying a view of the
river or the rows of vines from a winery terrace
with a glass of Luxembourgish wine or crémant
(the local sparkling wine).
16

What is the best-kept secret in your country?
Probably the wines – they’re virtually unknown
outside Luxembourg itself, but there are some
fantastic white wines, some crémants to rival
champagnes, and even the few red wines
produced have increased hugely in quality in
the time we’ve been here.
and affordable. From March 2020 Luxembourg
will become the first country in the world to
make its entire public transportation network
free to use, which will hopefully encourage
even more residents to leave their cars at
home and take the bus or train.
What is the one thing you see someone do that
makes you know that they are a tourist?
Puzzling over a tourist office map, looking for
the Corniche… If I see someone looking
confused with a map in Luxembourg City, I’ll
often ask them if I can help. More than one
has asked how to get to “the
Corniche,” (which is a road marked as a tourist
sight, but a bit hard to locate as the paths
double back on themselves,) and I can’t help
giving my personal opinion that you want to
look down onto it, not get onto it yourself, as
it’s more scenic viewed from above.
If you could travel to one place you’ve never
been, where would it be? I’ve travelled a lot in
Europe and North America, a little in southern
Africa and a few other places, but the place
that tops my lengthy bucket list is New
Zealand. It looks to be beautiful, rugged,
outdoorsy and varied – great for the ultimate
fly-drive holiday, and did I mention the wines?
Plus it has none of the deadly creatures that
Australia does!
What is your “other” favorite city in the world?
Hmmm, Paris or Rome … Rome or Paris? I’ll say
Paris – as it’s so photogenic and very walkable
I can’t imagine running out of places to visit or
areas for strolling and exploring; new modern
sights are springing up among the older
architecture, it’s very accessible, plus I can at
least speak the language (enough) and …
there is of course the food!
What is your favorite mode of transport and
why? Other than walking, I’d say the train.
There’s more room, and usually more comfort,
than on a bus or plane. Plus you can see so
much out of the window (and the view is often
of more countryside than from a bus), and as
get up and stretch your legs if you want to on
a longer journey. Plus you can use the time to
read a book, which you can’t if you drive, so
should arrive less stressed than if you’d driven. I
very much advocate for using public transport
system here though; while it doesn’t cover the
country comprehensively, it’s pretty reliable –
Grund Bridge, Luxembourg
You Tube video of Luxembourg
Editor’s Note: The next FAWCO
INTERIM MEETING is being held
March 20-22, 2020 in Luxembourg.
Visit www.fawco.org for more details
and ...maybe see you there!
17

“
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18

Bogotá, Colombia: Flying All Over the World
MARY STANGE
American Women’s Club of Bogotá
From: Florida, USA
Lives: Bogotá, Colombia
Despite my early love for travel, my first
international trip wasn’t until I was 19. I threw
caution to the wind and signed up for a study
abroad program to Limerick, Ireland. There were
tons of reasons why I shouldn’t have taken that
trip, money was one of them. But I kept asking
myself, Why not me? Why not now? So, I went.
My three months in Ireland were transformative.
More than anything, it taught me that the world
is full of people. It seems so simple, but it’s true!
People are out there! People, living their
everyday lives, going to the grocery store,
making dentist appointments and picking their
kids up from school. They were doing it before I
got there, and they will continue to do it after I
leave for sure.
I always had a sense that the world was bigger than
my home in Florida. I knew it was complex, I knew there
were things I would never understand. After a report on
the life of Amelia Earhart in the fourth grade, I became
fascinated with air travel and knew from a very early
age that I was meant to fly.
My family didn’t travel much as I was growing up. My
father was a merchant marine, taking three-month jobs
in which he would sail to all sorts of exotic places -
Turkey, Morocco, Israel, Panama, the Philippines.. He
never failed to send back postcards from the places he
traveled. I can say with certainty that this is where my
interest in the world stemmed from.
After college, I joined the US Navy as an aviator
flying the EA-6B Prowler. My two ship-board
deployments took me across the Pacific Ocean,
visiting many countries through out Asia and the
Middle East - countries I might never have
experienced otherwise. On one such port call in
Chennai, India, I encountered a group of
women gathered in the empty warehouse
building of the port where we were disembarking
from the aircraft carrier. I remember them so
Flying the EA-6B Prowler, a carrier-based electronic attack
jet
19

clearly; they were of all different ages gathered in a
stairwell, simply sitting. I couldn’t help but wonder, Who
were they? Who or what were they waiting for? Were
they there by their own choice? Where did they sleep?
What was their story? I often think about them.
For years, I had been yearning for an opportunity to
experience the world. Not simply through one vacation
a year, but by living in it. So, once my military
commitment was complete, my very young family
made the choice to join the US State Department’s
foreign service. Not long after, I found myself with a 20-
month-old baby in Yerevan, Armenia. I guess you can
say I jumped into the deep end of living the life. Those
two years as an expat in Armenia taught me more than
I could ever hope it would. It was hard, really hard. It
was lonely sometimes, really lonely. It was beautiful,
really beautiful. I made unbreakable friendships, and a
piece of my heart will be in Yerevan forever.
But foreign service life is a temporary one. Just as soon
as you get settled into one town, one house and one
tempo, it’s time to go again. We live our lives in two-to
three-year increments, recreating normal wherever we
go. New schools, new doctors, new hairdressers. The
Max and I goofing off on a boat trip in San Andrés,
one of Colombia’s own Caribbean Islands
only thing constant in my life is change, which is how we ended up in Bogotá, Colombia. And
before long, we’ll be off again to new adventures.
Once my children were born, my entire mission in life
was to make sure they were raised in a global
environment. This seemed more important to me
than any other part of their development. The more I
researched what it means to be a global citizen, the
more I wanted to share my knowledge. I believe
that the only way to truly learn about the world is by
seeing it. Through travel, children learn valuable
basic lessons that set the stage for global interest
and future change.
I launched my travel blog, Bambinos Without
Borders, in 2017, which strives to encourage parents
to travel more with their children and to teach
empathy, respect and cultural tolerance. The blog
even made its debut as a podcast earlier this year,
in which I explore how we can raise our kids to be
global citizens, by interviewing parents from around
the world.
While hiking to La Chorrera waterfall, I stopped to
hug the Tree of Wishes.
The concept of transformative travel has had such a
strong impact in my own life that I wanted to give
back in some way. So I became involved with an
organization called FLYTE, the Foundation for
Learning and Youth Travel Education, which helps
students in underserved communities make their first
international trips and begin their global education
through transformative travel experiences.
20

IN CONVERSATION WITH MARY…
What are your top 5 places to visit where you
live? Paloquemao Market: No visit to Bogotá is
complete without a trip to Paloquemao. It’s
big, it’s overwhelming, it’s confusing, it’s many
different colors and textures of fruit and
vegetable stands. Smells of lunch stalls cooking
el menú del día, usually a soup and rice and
Usaquen: Usaquen is a small, trendy
neighborhood of Bogotá on the north side of
town with serious bohemian vibes. While only
spanning a few square blocks, Usaquen is
packed full of incredible restaurants, cozy
cafes and off-the-wall shops. Make sure to visit
on Sunday mornings to catch the weekly
Mercado de las Pulgas. Stalls overrun the
streets to bring the best handicrafts in the city,
artisanal snacks, art, jewelry and much more.
Ciclovía: Not so much a place to visit as an
excellent opportunity to stay active in the city.
Every Sunday and federal holiday, the city of
Bogotá closes over 125 km of roads to auto
traffic, opening them instead to cyclists,
joggers, walkers, scooters, strollers, etc. It’s a
great opportunity to get outside and move. If
you’re visiting, you can rent a bike and head
out on your own or join a tour of the city!
I take all visitors to Paloquemao, our largest fruit and
vegetable market, for an authentic food experience
Monserrate: This is another tourist-must.
Monserrate is one of the most iconic spots in
the city. Sitting 10,000 ft above the city, the
summit provides a breath-taking view of the
enormity that is Bogotá. And it’s literally breathtaking
because you’re at 10,000 ft in elevation!
At the peak, you will find a few restaurants, a
small market and the centerpiece, the
sanctuary of Monserrate. You can even see its
sister monastery, Guadalupe, on the
neighboring hill. There are three methods to
ascend: a cable car, funicular and a walking
path - if you enjoy climbing stairs for an hour.
chicken plate. One of the best ways to
experience Paloquemao is through a guided
tour to try traditional Colombian breads, exotic
fruits and typical picada lunch. Go early in the
morning for an unforgettable flower market!
Orso Heladería: Colombia may not be known
for its ice cream, but when you’re ready for a
sweet treat, Orso is the place to go. In addition
to the decadent traditional flavors, such as
stracciatella and salted-caramel cookie
dough, they also routinely have local flavors
that are out of this world. Try lulo, a local sour
fruit that makes great juice - akin to lemonade,
but an even better ice cream. Or maybe
bocadillo con queso, which is a common
Colombian snack consisting of cheese and
guava paste. That’s right. Cheese in ice
cream. Don’t knock it until you try it.
Bogotá is for coffee lovers
21

y the selfies they take. That’s not to
say I don’t also take selfies while
traveling. Perhaps by being a shortterm
expat, I am also considered a
long-term tourist. And, hey, there’s
nothing wrong with being a tourist in
your own city!
La Candelaria, Bogotá
What is the best-kept secret in your city? While
it’s no surprise to anyone that we have some
of the best coffee or chocolate you can find,
the real hidden gem in Colombia is its actual
gems. Colombia is rich in emeralds, which can
be found in plenty and rather inexpensively.
Colombian emeralds have grown in popularity
in recent years and account for 70-90% of the
world’s emerald market. Said to be among the
purest in the world, you can find all types, from
raw, uncut stones to the most valuable deep
green gemstone. Although gem mining
doesn’t have the most reputable history,
Colombia has taken great efforts to ethically
source the jewels. There are many high-profile
dealers in the city, but it’s always good to do
your research before buying.
If you could travel to one place
you’ve never been, where would it
be? I would love to do a wine tour
around the Tuscan region of Italy.
While I’ve been to some of the larger
Italian cities before, I’ve never had
the chance to explore the
countryside. Like most things in life,
I’m sure it’s been over-romanticized
in movies and TV, but it doesn’t
mean I don’t want to do it. Sign me
up for all the wine!
What is your “other” favorite city in the world?
My favorite city in the world is unequivocally
Edinburgh, Scotland. It’s dramatic, gothic,
moody, alive, and is steeped in such
interesting history. And how fortunate that it
was the site of the 2019 FAWCO Biennial
Conference! It’s one city in the world I will
never tire of visiting over and over.
What is your favorite mode of transport? I have
to say airplanes, and it’s not just because I was
an aviator! While I’m all for “enjoying the ride,”
I also love efficiency. I really just want to get
where I’m going. I’ve had a few too many
road trip disaster stories, so I try to fly whenever
I can.
What is the one thing you see someone do that
makes you know that they are a tourist? Selfies!
It probably makes me a terrible Millennial to
say, but it’s true. You can always spot a tourist
You Tube video of Colombia
22

Be Our Guest. Just Don’t Let the Cat Out
We recently moved to Amsterdam and love having visitors and showing off the wonders of our
new city, but it didn’t take us long to realize there are some aspects of hosting that grow old
quickly. Luckily there are a few simple things you can do to get the most out of your visit without
vexing your host.
23
Do Your Research
It’s best to arrive with a general knowledge of the major attractions
and a plan for your activities. Your hosts will likely have some good
pointers but it’s best not to expect them to plan your whole itinerary.
Look online to see if you can book tickets in advance. Things sell out,
particularly during high season, and it’s disappointing to arrive excited
for your adventure and not be able to do the things you want.
Independence is Bliss
This is tricky because you don’t want to make your hosts feel like
they are providing a free hotel, but the truth is, no matter how
much your hosts love you, there are only so many times a person
can visit the Van Gogh museum. My favorite guests come
prepared with a list of things they want to do independently
(including eating some meals out) but leave time to hang out.
Also keep in mind that your host isn’t necessarily on vacation
when you visit. In our case, we had four sets of visitors in three
months (hooray for tulip season!). If your hosts work or have kids
in school they need their routine to stay intact as much as
possible. Venturing out on your own a bit will help your host’s real life stay on track.
Phone, Keys, Wallet
Before you leave home contact your bank to make sure your credit
and ATM cards are authorized and will work. It’s surprising how
many people don’t do this and show up with no access to their
money. Buy a data plan so you can use your phone. Relying on WiFi
is dodgy. We advise our guests to download WhatsApp for talking
and texting. Public transportation is usually the best way to get
around in a city. Learn how it works and download transportation
and ride sharing apps.
Pack Smart
Check the weather forecast and pack appropriately. Make
wise choices about footwear especially. If you live in the
suburbs but are visiting a city, know the shoes you wear to drive
to Target may not be comfortable enough for hours of walking
on cobblestones.
If traveling to Europe, keep in mind your host has European
appliances, which tend to be small and take several hours per
load (dryers aren’t standard – lots of line drying in Europe so get
ready for crispy towels). It’s generally okay to ask to wash one
small load, but keep it limited to socks and underwear and a few
other items. Your host will be washing extra loads of towels and
bedding for your visit, so keeping your personal laundry needs
minimal will help a lot.

Try to Adjust to the Time Change Quickly
Do your best to get on schedule as quickly as you can. We recently had a
guest who didn’t emerge from her room before noon (and not before 3pm
one day) so by the time she was ready to go out the markets and museums
were about to close.
Devil in the Details
We only have one bathroom, which is literally a bath room -- as in
there’s a tub and a shower, but no toilet. There’s a separate toilet room,
which doesn’t have a sink. This charming arrangement creates some
challenges. We had a guest who settled in for a long bath just before it
was time for our son to get ready for bed on a school night. Be mindful
and do your business quickly. Another quirky thing about our European
apartment is the front door locks automatically when it closes. We
came home to discover our cat had escaped when our guest left her
bedroom window open so she and the cat were sitting outside in the
rain waiting for someone to let them back in.
On Being “Helpful”
We have a narrow galley kitchen with small European-sized appliances. It’s
lovely that guests want to help, but it’s not very practical for everyone to be
in there while we’re cooking or trying to do post-meal dishes. One of the best
things a guest offered to do was take our dog for a walk while we were busy
getting ready to leave for the day. Taking out the trash and recycling is
always awesome.
Catching the (wrong kind of ) Travel Bug
Planes, trains, and trams are a festival of germs. The last guest we had
picked up a nasty stomach bug and barfed on a city bus, then
twelve hours later our son caught the same bug (I blame the
aforementioned shared toilet/no sink situation). Obviously there’s not
a lot you can do about being exposed to germs, but do engage in
lots of soapy hand washing, my friends. Bring meds with you as many
aren’t available abroad – our Dutch doctor tells us to put an onion by
our bed when we’re not feeling well. You’ll probably prefer to take
your own NyQuil!
A Gift Goes a Long Way
One of the best ways to show your host some love and
appreciation is the good-old-fashioned offering of
gifts. It doesn’t have to be fancy. The absolute best
gifts we’ve gotten are bags of microwave popcorn,
packets of ranch dressing seasoning, and, for our little
guy, York Mints. Find out what your host misses most
from the States and bring it to them. They will love you
for it and you’ll probably even score an invitation to
come back!
Jennifer Barnett is from Falls Church, Virginia and currently lives in Amsterdam with her husband,
son, cat, and very spirited dog. She is a member of AWC Amsterdam.
24

Visiting your Favorite City this Summer? The Pajama Company
has the Perfect Sleepwear for Traveling on the Road!
The Cat's Pajamas team searched the globe for the
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Ellie Badanes, FAUSA Member and The Pajama Company Founder
“Surely, of all
the wonders
of the world,
the horizon is
the greatest."
Anglo-Italian
Explorer, Freya
Stark
25

Copenhagen, Denmark: Dancing the Tango
JONELLE LEMCKE
American Women’s Club of Denmark
From: New York City
Lives: Frederiksberg, Copenhagen, Denmark
I grew up in Europe, due to my Dad’s postings in
the military, so you could say that being an Army
Brat is a defining element in my life story. We
were fortunate to spend a block of years in one
place, so although we were subject to the
tumbleweed character of military family life, we
had the opportunity to sink some roots. The good
is that in military communities, people tend to be
friendly and open because everyone has
experienced what it’s like to be the new kid on the block. Not to mention that there are almost
always common acquaintances around the world… making it a small place.
We lived in Orleans, France and Augsburg, Germany. I remember my childhood fondly and lived
a charmed life. I was active as a Girl Scout; our family was musical and my two older sisters and I
all had different activities and friends. My younger brother was just the annoying little kid who
got in the way, but we loved him. We traveled
Europe and I became an international citizen
in my early years.
My father’s family lived in Catskill, NY. But I was
always particularly fascinated by New York
City. It was the City of Oz! It was the place
where all dreams could be fulfilled and where
one could become whatever one wished - all
were welcome and all contributed to the mix.
So a year or so after I graduated from college
at Johns Hopkins University, I moved to live in
New York City where I accepted a job as a
director of graduate admissions at Pace
University in Manhattan.
While living in New York, one fateful night I met
my future husband while dancing Argentine
tango! The Fates had to work hard to make this
happen… My future husband, Erik, was in the
USA on a business trip to New England and
NYC. While in Denmark, he had lined up a
place to dance that particular Sunday night.
He arrived in NYC that particular evening after
concluding meetings in New Hampshire earlier
in the day; he arrived at the address for
dancing, but the dance had been cancelled
that evening. Events/places where one
26
Dancing with Erik

dances Argentine tango are called “milongas”. He returned to his hotel and had decided to
call it a day, but a nagging voice urged him to find another milonga. He did so and wound up
where I was. For my part, I never danced at this particular milonga on Sundays because there
was a milonga in New York City’s South Street Seaport by The Brooklyn Bridge that was outdoors
and more fun. However, this was the week of a heat wave and my regular dance partner
wanted to dance in air-conditioning… therefore I was in the dance hall where Erik arrived later
that evening. We married after a whirlwind courtship and I moved to Copenhagen, Denmark.
Through the Argentine tango I met my husband, but it also helped me find a fantastic career as
a tourist guide. Erik had attended a milonga without me one evening and reported back about
meeting one of his tango friends who worked as a tourist guide. They had spent the evening
chatting about this fellow’s work with groups from all around the world and the University
education that is required to qualify for a particular international certification. Erik and I agreed
that this sounded good and after researching the program further at Roskilde University, I
applied and was accepted.
I completed the tourist guide curriculum full-time … in Danish and graduated as a certified
guide in 2010. I have never taken a more demanding exam. It requires examinees to be
proficient in the details of a three-hour bus route that covers one’s city, proficient in a
designated walking tour and proficient in museum guiding in at least one museum. The exam
requires all of the guiding to be done in two languages. Mine were Danish and English. Passing
this exam with high marks was one of my proudest moments in life!
IN CONVERSATION WITH JONELLE…
Tell us about a typical day for you A typical
day involves work beforehand where I prepare
things. I design the route with the sights we will
see, the rest stops and weather shelters if
needed. Construction, visits in town by VIPs,
valuable items on loan to exhibitions,
Working as a tour guide
accidents or merely the unexpected
“whatever” can mean changes in routes or
itinerary. Doing one’s homework in advance
can cut down on surprises!
Next is meeting the day’s clients. It could be
an individual on a private tour or it could
be a group from a cruise ship and
certainly everything in between! Our tour
could be the standard sights of
Copenhagen or it could be a specialized
tour based on hobbies or professional
activities. I’ve worked for example with a
WWII historian on Denmark’s history of the
period and I’ve worked with porcelain
collectors looking for old pieces of Royal
Copenhagen. I’ve worked with guests
looking for original pieces of Danish
Modern furniture/lighting and I’ve
worked with others shopping for unique
designer clothing. I call my company
“Copenhagen Your Way” because I
tailor private tours to the individuals and
their interests/hobbies/professions/etc.
After the tour is over, I hang around a bit
to make sure that all questions are
answered or advise on restaurants or
sites, as called for. I learn all the time from
my guests. A question or comment leads
me to explore a new angle of a subject
27

opposite, English landscape
architecture.
The Little Mermaid: ‘Nuff said. Who
would come to Copenhagen and
not see her?
Castle Island in Copenhagen: It
i n c o r p o r a t e s m a n y o f
Copenhagen’s must see sights
directly on the Island or within sight
from the Island. Sights such as The
House of Parliament, The Queen’s
Reception Rooms, The Danish
Supreme Court, The Old Stock
Exchange, Holmen’s Church,
Absalon’s Statue, The National
Museum, Stroeget, and more!
Copenhagen
or down a different path. It’s impossible to
know EVERYTHING, so I can simply relax about
what I don’t know. This is the best job in the
world because I get to explore my interests in
history, art history, material culture, current
events, architecture, philosophy, psychology…
and more… sharing these interests with other
people and enhancing their visit to my
backyard at the same time.
What are your top 5 places to visit where you
live
Fanø: Denmark’s westernmost island with a
unique topography and unique culture that is
alive and well.
What is the best-kept secret in your
country? The best-kept secret in
Denmark is that as a country it strives, even
today, to uphold an ideal articulated in the
1830s by its philosopher, N.F.S. Grundtvig of
creating a society where “few have too little
and even fewer have too much.” The
egalitarian ideal is expressed throughout
Danish society in numerous ways.
What is the one thing you see someone do that
makes you know that they are a tourist? How
does a tourist stand out? One can spot a tourist
on bicycle from a mile away! A friend once
said that he could sum up Danes on bicycles in
one word… that word is “confident”.
Egeskov Castle: Located on the
island of Fyn, it’s the historic home
of Count Michael Ahlefeldt- Laurvig
-Bille whose family has lived here
over 460 years. One can visit public
wings of the ancestral home and
other parts of the ground are like a
tasteful theme park.
Frederiksborg Castle: a 35 minute
drive north from Copenhagen,
Frederiksborg Castle is stunning
structure created as a royal
residence in the 1500s and after a
devastating fire in the 1860s was
restored as a museum to the Danish
people. The grounds are devoted
to both French landscape
architecture and its intellectual
The Storm Bridge, Copenhagen
28

Tourists on bicycles are the exact opposite.
They do not follow established traffic rules and
are pretty shaky on the bicycle path.
If you could travel to one place you’ve never
been, where would it be? As a new travel
destination, I would go
to Budapest, Hungary.
I’m very interested in
their spa culture. I like
the idea of thermal
baths, massage, body
oils, soaps, etc. Then
sleep. Then there’s
great food and
pastries! Sounds like an
indulgent vacation!
What is your “other”
favorite city in the
world? Paris is my
favorite city in the
world. It’s a difficult
a n d c h a l l e n g i n g
place, but it changed
In the Botanical Gardens
my life. I had visited as a child when we lived
in Orleans and the magic of Paris was already
part of my psyche.
Believe it or not, at a certain point of my life I
was bored living in New York City. Then I was
given a business trip to Paris. I combined all of
my outstanding vacation time for the trip so I
could be there for as long as possible. I would
be there for almost a month.
The trip was exhausting and exhilarating. Then
I started to feel depressed the week before
my return to New York. “ Oh bummer, gotta
go back to New York…” is what ran through
my head. Then I gave myself a good shaking
and talking to. I reminded myself that I lived in
one of the most exciting cities on the planet
and I just needed to rediscover it, block by
block, on foot… just as I had discovered Paris.
I immediately
felt better and
h a p p y . I
b e c a m e
excited about
the return home
and I identified
three unknown
neighborhoods
to discover. I
bought a “little
red book” in
w h i c h t o
document my
discoveries and
make notes. I
i d e n t i f i e d
appropriate bus
routes so I could
ride through unknown areas and cover more
ground. I made lots of new friends, became
involved in new activities and came to know
New York City in ways that astounded my
friends. I became involved with East Village
artists and jazz musicians. I began working as a
volunteer with a major jazz producer and got
to meet and attend the concerts of a number
of big name artists. I had definitely
regenerated my life.
The final chapter of this incident is that I
started taking Argentine tango lessons when I
returned from Paris. A few years later I met Erik
and the rest, as they say, is history!
You Tube video of Denmark
29

Casablanca, Morocco: In the Spice Market
NEZHA CHERKAB-SEBTI
American International Women’s Club of
Casablanca
From: Casablanca, Morocco
Lives: Casablanca, Morocco
I was born in Casablanca in a modest and
conservative family. We lived then in Derb
Sultan (Sultan's quarter), not far from the Royal
Palace and the mythic Habous.
world and meet people with different horizons.
After graduating from high school, I joined the
National Airlines company as a flight attendant.
Such a lovely experience! Through my work I
was able to see many big cities around the
After a few years I got married and today I have a 33-year-old daughter who's married and is
living in France. My husband and I live an area called California these days. It’s a quiet place
though quite far from the city center.
In 2000, I joined AIWCC, the American Women's Club of Casablanca. I love volunteering with
such inspiring ladies coming from different countries.
In 2010, I heard about some heritage days being organised by an association called
Casamemoire. I went on one of their visits of the Habous area, loved it and joined the
association right away as
a volunteer cultural
mediator. As part of this I
lead visits to the different
sites and monuments of
my city.
Through this experience I
became eligible to sit a
p r o f e s s i o n a l e x a m
sponsored by the Tourism
ministry. So, I am now an
authorised official guide.
I’m love this role as it gives
me the chance of some
income from time to time,
but I’m still volunteering
with the Casamemoire.
Celebrating my birthday with my husband
30

IN CONVERSATION WITH NEZHA…
Tell us about a typical day for you. At the
moment we are in the Ramadan month,
during which people love to go out after they
break the
fast. This
year we’ve
had the
idea of
organizing
nocturnal
g u i d e d
visits of the
city. The
days have
been very
long and
we’ve had
to recruit
and train
some new
Introducing the Habous area to a group of guides and
children
do some
p u b l i c i t y
about the tours too. My days vary depending
on what is going on.
What are your top 5 places to visit where you
live?
Habous area: of course! I grew up there, and I
love its architecture, a mix of traditional and
modern styles.
“secretly" consult some fortune tellers hidden
behind their stores!
What is the one thing you see someone do that
makes you know that they are a tourist? When
I see someone looking for an open shop at
sunset during Ramadan! It's closed
everywhere, except some restaurants who
serve the breaking fasting meal (iftar)!
If you could travel to one place you’ve never
been, where would it be? I'd like to visit some
villages in deep Kenya. There are some tribes
who resist strongly any kind of modernism and
who live with Mother Nature in a complete
symbiosis… for still how long?
What is your “other” favorite city in the world?
Lyon in France is my favourite city. It’s not too
big but its history is very rich and there are so
many museums and the cultural activities are
so varied.
What is your favorite mode of transport? I love
to travel by train. It allows you to admire the
scenery and sometimes exchange nice ideas
with your compartment neighbors.
The Ancient Medina: not really as beautiful as
the medinas of Marrakech and Fes, but It’s full
of history and the modernism got into
Morocco through its gates!
Hay Mohammadi: that labor quarter where
workers revolted against the French occupants
during the first half of the 20 th century. Many
famous artists come from it too.
Ain Diab: the so beautiful seaside area! Sunsets
are stunning and there's animation all day and
night long!
The spice market Jmiaa: I love the flavors of
the spices and the diversity of the fresh veggies
and fruit.
What is the best-kept secret in your city? A
Polichinelle’s one actually! It’s a small street
behind the spice market, where women are
sure to find all kinds of rare plants and spices
for some old remedies. They can also
Dancing in Tangier
You Tube video of Morocco
31

If You Could Own A Famous Building Which Would It Be?
The Sydney Opera House because of
its design, location, the talented
people who are invited there to
entertain and of course I would stage
a 4 th of July celebration there annually.
TERESA HANDA
It’s not a building, but The Brooklyn Bridge in New
York City. The bridge is a suspended structure
connecting two of New York’s borroughs, Manhattan
and Brooklyn, and traveled by car, bike or by foot.
The views of
NYC by night
and the
A t l a n t i c
Harbor by
day are just
gorgeous.
DEANNA
BRITTAIN
The Palazzo Farnese in Rome, now
the French embassy. You can only
visit it on a pre-booked guided tour
and can’t take photos of the
amazing Caracci Gallery. By
owning it I’d get to see that every
day and enjoy the walled garden
at the back. Plus it’s in Rome!
HELENA NOWAK-SMITH
The Chrysler Building in New York City. It’s
heart-stoppingly beautiful with its Art Deco
towers and spires. It’s as though the building
itself is reaching out to the heavens,
embodying the
strivings of millions
who make their way
to New York City in
the hope of realizing
their dreams… doing
s o m e t h i n g ,
b e c o m i n g
something or simply
finding a place
where they can be
themselves.
JONELLE LEMCKE
WWF building in Switzerland! I'd take care of
wild animals around the world and prevent the
extinction of some of them. I would also make
vote laws to banish the exploitation of animals
in circuses and aquariums. Having in Morocco
so many stray cats and dogs and injured
working animals such as horses, mules and
donkeys, I would, of course, do everything to
allow them to have a very comfortable life.
NEZHAD SEBTI
32

Lyon, France: Interpreting What I See
BECKY REYNAUD
American Club of Lyon, France
From: Berkeley, CA
Lives: Lyon, France
I was born in Baltimore but spent my early
childhood in Gulfport and New Orleans. My family
moved to Berkeley when I was 10 and I suppose I
mostly consider myself a Californian, though I left
for good at the age of 23.
In the summer after my sophomore year at UC
Berkeley, with a little French and Italian under my
belt, I travelled across Europe with 3 friends and
eventually struck out on my own – the others were
too slow getting up in the morning! That was my
first real taste of travel, and it became a passion of
mine after that.
In time I married a Frenchman I had met at UC. His first job was in the north of France, then we
did a 3-year stint in Japan. We returned to France (with 2 babies in tow), settling in Lyon, and
have been here ever since, except for a one-year sabbatical in Oregon.
I got involved in tourism in Lyon by taking on interpreting assignments for Lyon City Hall, the
town planning agency and the transit authority. I learned a great deal about the city and often
found myself providing visiting delegations with insights about local life. There is so much to
admire and enjoy in Lyon that it’s easy to convey my love of the city.
33

IN CONVERSATION WITH BECKY…
Tell us about a typical day for you. Often in
the course of my interpreting assignments,
during lunch breaks or casual activities,
foreign delegates ask me questions about
Lyon or for advice on what to visit in the area.
I have even found myself informing French
Lyon, France
down a corridor and come out on a different
street. The locals often use them as shortcuts.
What is the best-kept secret in your city? Lyon
is something of a secret itself, often
overlooked by French and foreign tourists. The
French think of it as the place they get stuck in
traffic on the freeway to the Mediterranean,
and foreigners only go to Paris, Mont Saint
Michel, and perhaps a Loire Valley castle or
two if they are especially adventurous!
What is the one thing you see someone do
that makes you know that they are a tourist?
Taking pictures of everything! You have to
wonder if some people actually see the place
they’re visiting because their eyes are always
glued to their mobile phone screens.
visitors! I find American visitors, even
professional ones, rather ignorant about
France (and Europe in general). I have to
admit I enjoy the look on their faces when I tell
them that tuition at French universities is
around €350 and that we get five weeks
annual paid vacation.
What are your top places to visit where you
live? The historic part of Lyon is a listed
UNESCO World Heritage site (1000 acres!), so
just walking around and admiring the different
eras of architecture, starting from the Romans,
will keep you busy for a while. The thing I like
to do most with visitors is explore the traboules,
which are passageways running through the
oldest buildings. It’s fun to push a street door
open, venture up the corridor and perhaps
discover a fabulous Renaissance courtyard in
the heart of the building. Then you continue
Modern Lyon
If you could travel to one place you’ve never
been, where would it be? India since I’m
interested in the people, architecture, food
and colorful everything.
What is your “other” favorite city in the world?
London, but with a lot of money.
What is your favorite mode of transport?
Walking. I like having the time to see details.
You Tube video of Lyon
Lyon traboules
34

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35

The Beauty of Kenya: A Poem
Butterflies fluttering in my tummy
then blue & lilac birds arrive
peace
impala males a few with many delicate ladies with young
giants galore trumpeting
butterflies again
missing something so much
then a hippo snorts and splashes with baby
zebra stripes everywhere and long necks saunter by
here come those butterflies
and giants again and again
so quietly they tread
Water bucks with white circled bottoms
it’s a never ending live show
& the butterflies never go
Dust, warm breeze and pink desert flowers
silence but so much sound
my heart beats fast & those butterflies abound
My love is aching and about to burst
tears fill my eyes with the thought of leaving such beauty and wonderment
now baby giants & naughty baboons
two herds meet and greet with trunks & tusks
water splashing & excitement
butterflies again
I dare not move or blink.
Judi Roselli-Cecconi is English but born and raised in Kenya, currently living in Tuscany, Italy. She
is the President of The American International League of Florence and spends her time, when not
writing, enjoying helping charities, water colour painting, taking photographs, looking after
guests visiting her home in the Chianti and she loves to travel.
36

In this issue we are proud to present
photos from Inspiring Women’s recent
“Project 62” photo competition. We
have also created a “cheeky” little quiz
to test your global knowledge. The
answers are located on p. 67 Give us
your feedback (CLICK HERE FOR THE
INSPIRING WOMEN SURVEY)
and let us know how well you did!
Q1: This city gave the world
famous Toblerone chocolate
bars. 100% of all of these
bars are produced here:
Madrid
Genoa
Basel
Bern
Q2: Karl Marx wrote much of
his Das Kapital in this city:
Vienna
Berlin
London
Amsterdam
37

Q3: 70% of the world’s
emeralds are mined in:
Dublin
Bogotá
Casa Blanca
Malmö
Q4: Gustave Eiffel
proposed that the Eiffel
Tower be located in this
famous city:
Barcelona
Zurich
Paris
Cologne
Q5: This country is the largest
country in the world without
a river:
Lebanon
Kenya
Saudi Arabia
Germany
38

Q6: The world’s
largest functioning
bell is located in this
city:
Cologne
Rome
Antwerp
Gothenburg
Q7: In the 17th century,
this city was run by
pirates under the
Republic of Bou Regreg:
Seoul
Rabat
Aquitaine
Bogotá
Q8: In 1899, the first
international peace
conference was held in
this city:
Heidelberg
Oslo
Lyon
The Hague
39

Q9: The world’s most
expensive house is
located in:
Mumbai
Paris
Lichtenstein
Dublin
Q10: This city has the biggest
library in Europe
Brussels
Moscow
Frankfurt
Luxembourg
40

Nairobi, Kenya: A Second View
JANA LINHARTOVA-SAMDANI
American Women’s Association of Kenya
From: Prague, Czech Republic
Lives: Nairobi suburbs (Karen), Kenya
I grew up in the heart of Europe in one of the
most beautiful cities in the world, Prague, the
capital of Czech Republic. Since my early
childhood I was introduced to theatre,
museums, galleries and nature.
I always loved travelling and I left home
when I was 16 for an exchange program in
Switzerland, where I spent the whole of a
wonderful winter season.
Fast forward a few years to one cold evening
in July 2010, when my husband and I arrived in Kenya. He was transferred to one of the leading
hotels in Nairobi from our former post in South India.
Nairobi is a great city, and Kenya is a great country which can flourish with a little bit of help. The
social workers, NGO representatives and project leaders are very grateful for any kind of
assistance or help. It is the best sense of achievement to see the projects one supports going
ahead and becoming self-sufficient. A visit to a children’s home, self-help group or shelters for
abandoned animals always charges me up and makes me count my blessings.
On a visit to Kitengela, Kenya
41

IN CONVERSATION WITH JANA…
What are your top places to visit where you
live?
Nairobi National Park – It’s a very unique
place. Kenya is the only country in the world
with a safari park inside its capital city and is
home to many varieties of animals. There is
nothing better than an early morning game
drive followed by bush breakfast overlooking
the lush green plains with giraffes walking on
the horizon. If you’re not really an early bird,
than an evening game drive with a
sundowner on the terrace of one of the hotels
facing the park will do just fine for you.
Brown’s Cheese Farm – Nairobi is not only
about wildlife: we have many local producers
of yummy delicacies, like Brown’s Cheese. This
amazing family company is a proud winner of
many prestigious international awards, making
their cheese one of the best in the world. To
come closer to their customers, they offer
farm and factory tours followed by cheese
tasting and a proper farm lunch. Come
hungry and wait for their dessert to be served.
In my opinion the mango baobab frozen
yoghurt is to die for .
Kitengela Glass Factory – Situated on the
edge of Nairobi National Park, this place is a
paradise for art lovers and shoppers. Entering
the compound of Kitengela Hot Glass &
Amselm Croze, you can get lost walking on
the mosaic pavements, discovering the
workshops of artisans transforming recycled
glass materials into works of art, jewellery or
home decor objects. Hint: stop by the factory
At Brown’s Cheese Farm with AWA members
workshop where you can buy many items for
discounted prices. Part of the village has an
unusual hippie hotel with the most amazing
pool, well worth a look.
Kiambethu Tea Farm – If you feel like going
back in time, be sure to visit Kiambethu Tea
Farm. This lovely colonial house is surrounded
by cushions of tea bushes and indigenous
forest with medicinal
plants and trees.
Kenya tea is famous
worldwide, and here is
the place to learn
everything about this
delicious drink: what
happens from the
moment one of the
skilled farmers harvests
the finest green leaves
until the moment you
pour yourself a cuppa.
And why not taste
some and have an
elegant lunch with a
lovely host, Fiona?
42

What is the best-kept secret in your city? The
best secret is surely the Boho restaurant – a
great place in Hardy, an upscale suburb of
Nairobi. This small, cosy eatery offers an
eclectic menu of the most delicious dishes
from the Far East, accompanied by the best
selections of wines. Although it’s a very low-key
venue, this place has hosted several show
business icons from all around the world.
Friendly staff and a passionate owner equal a
winning combination.
What is the one thing you see someone do that
makes you know that they are a tourist? For
sure walking around in a safari outfit with a
camera hanging over their shoulder.
Tell us about a typical day for you. My usual
day starts with dropping the kids off at school,
followed by an exercise lesson in a local gym,
which always concludes with a coffee in some
cosy coffee shop in the neighborhood. My mid
-morning is usually dedicated to meeting
friends and discovering new places to visit.
And in Nairobi, we are not lacking places to
go. Every day we have something new
popping up – a gallery, a boutique with
upscale fashions, coffee shops or restaurants.
Sometimes we also go to visit an NGO or a
charity project that needs support or visibility.
Tuesdays are exclusively dedicated to AWA
events. In Kenya, schools are over by 3 pm, so
afternoons are dedicated to children. We go
to swim in one of the ice-cold Nairobi pools,
have a treat in some ice cream parlor or just
lounge in the lush green gardens. Dinner is
usually served at home, as I love cooking and
it’s a good opportunity to meet as a family
after a long day. A majority of my food supplies
comes from farmers’ markets. Late nights are
usually reserved for a movie or a cosy time at
home, and in cold season, with a lit fireplace.
If you could travel to one place you’ve never
been, where would it be? Iceland. I share this
dream destination with my teenage son.
We’re both enchanted by the wild beauty,
mystical Northern lights and cold weather.
What is your “other” favorite city in the world?
My favorite city is Lucerne, in Switzerland,
because that’s where I met my husband more
than 20 years ago.
What is your favorite mode of transport and
why? As I said, I love to travel and it doesn’t
really matter how. I enjoy business class in an
A380 as much as I enjoy taking a rikshaw to
discover a downtown area of an Indian city.
At Kazuri Beads in Nairobi
43

Bern, Switzerland: From Peru to Europe
DENISE O’GORMAN AEBERSOLD
American Women’s Club of Bern,
Switzerland
From: Lima, Peru & Bern, Switzerland
Lives: Bern, Switzerland
I grew up in Lima, the capital of Peru. I was an only
child. My father was Swiss and my mother Peruvian.
At home we spoke Swiss German, French and
Spanish. We travelled once a year to Switzerland to
visit my father’s mother and family. I liked to read a
lot and enjoyed spending time with my cousins.
My great passion was sports, and I started early taking
ballet lessons, swimming and horse riding classes. In
school I was good at athletics and team sports:
softball and basketball. I particularly excelled in
basketball and joined a club; then I was selected to
represent Lima in a national championship and later
became a player in the Peruvian national team
which won the championship at the Bolivarian Games in Tachira, Venezuela in 1972.
The political situation in Peru in the 1970s was very unstable, and the economy suffered. This
situation deteriorated further following a military coup, when a junta took power and remained
in power for many years. There were student protests and marches; universities were closed;
foreign companies were nationalized; an agrarian reform was initiated and land expropriated.
Under those unstable conditions, my parents decided I should further my education in Europe. I
travelled with my mother first to Switzerland, then to Spain. Afterwards I was sent to boarding
school in England, where I
o b t a i n e d m y l a n g u a g e
proficiency certificate and my
Advance-Levels in English, History
of Art and Spanish Literature. It
was a complex period in my life
with many changes: country,
language and friends. I joined that
tribe of foreign students who
attend schools in Europe, stay at
school at midterm and public
holidays, only to return home for
the summer break.
I did my university studies in the US,
where I attended college in New
Jersey. The fact that the college
was only 45 minutes from New
York City influenced my choice.
Me with my family
44

After about six months, I moved out of campus and shared a flat on Main Street with two other
foreign students.
I studied philosophy and religion with a minor in art. It was then that I discovered a new passion,
photography. I used to work in the darkroom with my flatmate until late in the evening,
fascinated by all the possibilities photography offered. I took part in photo competitions and
won first place at the annual photography exhibition.
In the summers I travelled back to Europe. I visited northern Italy, Paris, London, Munich and a
few other cities on the continent. In my junior year I took some time off and travelled with two
friends through Europe, from London to Zurich and from Bari in southern Italy by ferry to the
island of Corfu. From there to Athens and to Crete. We worked in Crete as olive pickers for the
season from September to January. My Greek was rudimentary, but I somehow managed to
pick up enough of the language to work and fend for myself. Travelling was different back
then: it was more of an adventure, not an organized and paid-for trip. There was the risk, of
course, of running out of money and having to go back, so whatever job was available on the
road, we took, and in this way financed the next leg of the trip. We travelled to Israel, where we
visited friends in Jerusalem and got a job working on a farm in the Negev desert.
Cityscape of Bern, Switzerland
After the trip I returned to school in New Jersey to complete my studies. Before returning to
Europe I worked in New York City as a photo researcher, a photo agency assistant and as a
temp in a bank on Wall Street.
As the economic and political situation in Peru did not get any better, my father decided to
return to his home town of Bern, the capital of Switzerland. I joined him after my stint in New
York City. Although I had visited Switzerland often, I had never lived in the country, so it was a
completely new experience for me: a new country, a different language and culture, new
friends. I was lucky, however, and within three months I had a job. I worked for the British
Embassy in the public affairs section and later for the American Embassy where I was
responsible for protocol and the organization of events. I married, and my two children were
born in Bern.
One day I saw an advertisement in a local newspaper for tour guides that caught my eye and I
decided to apply for the position. The thought of changing careers, reducing my working hours
and doing something different had long been in my mind. When I was invited for an interview,
then a second, I realized that this was a unique opportunity to start anew. I did the required
four months intensive training in the history, institutions, attractions and customs of Bern
specifically, and Switzerland in general, before obtaining my certification as a city tour guide.
45

IN CONVERSATION WITH DENISE…
What are your top 5 places to visit where you
live?
Bern’s foundations go back to the twelfth
century. It was built on a narrow peninsula
surrounded on three sides by the river Aare.
The buildings on either side of the streets are
from that period and are still standing; so are
the first and second gates of the city, built in
1191 and 1255, respectively. Despite a major
fire in 1405, after which much of the city was
rebuilt in sandstone, and substantial
construction efforts in the eighteenth century,
Bern's old city has retained its medieval
character to today.
The landmark of the city is the Clock Tower
(Zytglogge). At three minutes to the hour,
crowds of visitors gather below the tower to
watch the sixteenth-century clockwork figures
move, from the rooster to the golden man
with a hammer at the
top, tolling in the hour.
The Paul Klee Centre was built in 2005 by the
renowned Italian architect Renzo Piano. The
bold and modern masterpiece made of steel
and glass symbolically recreates the hills of the
Emmental. It is more than just a museum
housing Paul Klee’s works; it also hosts a
number of activities such as readings,
concerts, a children’s museum and frequently
temporary exhibitions.
What is the best-kept secret in your city? The
fact that Albert Einstein, the Nobel Prize
winning physicist, lived and worked in Bern for
seven years. Between 1903 and 1905, he
rented a small flat on the Kramgasse, one of
the old town main streets. At the time he
worked as a clerk at the Swiss Patent Office
and was married to Mileva Maric, a
mathematician whom he had met while both
were studying in Zurich. They had a son called
The Bear Park – the city
of Bern has had live
bears since 1513: until
1857 in the town itself,
then in the bear pit and
since 2009, in the new
and spacious bear park.
Currently there is a family
of three brown bears:
Finn, Björk and Ursina.
T h e B e rn M i n s t e r
(Münster) is the largest
ecclesiastical building in
Switzerland and the most
impressive example of
late Gothic architecture.
Construction started in
1421 and continued with
a series of builders for
generations. The spire was
finally completed in 1893. The main portal with
its depiction of the Last Judgement is
remarkable. The minster with its spire towers
over the Bern cityscape.
The Rose Garden is a mecca for flower lovers
and gardeners. Located across the river, it
provides the best birds’ eye view of the old
city. It is not only a park with a lily pond but
also a recreational area with a restaurant and
a playground.
46
City tour with the AWC Bern ladies
Hans Albert. The miraculous years (Annus
Mirabilis) papers, which presented
Einstein's theory of relativity and contributed
substantially to the foundation of modern
physics, were written here and published in
the Annalen der Physik.
Today the Einstein house (Einsteinhaus) is a
museum showing the living conditions of
Einstein and his family in the apartment on the
second floor with furniture from that period.

Einstein's biography and his life's work are
presented on the third floor.
Tell us about a typical day for you. I work as a
tour guide for the city of Bern. A regular day
starts when I meet the visitors at an appointed
hour in town and take them for a walking tour
through the old city. I start in front of a map
where I summarize the history of the city of
Bern from its foundations through the modern
city of today. We walk through the old town,
stopping at monuments and buildings of
historical interest; we visit the weekly markets
which specialize in “slow food” and sell local
produce; and I point out curiosities and
peculiarities typical of the city of Bern. Legends
and funny anecdotes are also part of the
repertoire. In addition, I also explain our system
of government, the political structure, the
military and schooling systems, taxation, health
insurance and social services, among other
current matters the visitors may find of interest.
What is the one thing you see someone do that
makes you know that they are a tourist? The
look of awe some visitors have when they stroll
through the streets of the old town (Altstadt).
If you could travel to one place you’ve never
been, where would it be? I would love to travel
to Argentina and spend a few weeks there.
Not just visit Buenos Aires, but the hinterland as
well, with its changing geography and nature,
the Pampas and the Andes. That combination
of customs, culture, Catholicism and tradition
appeals to me.
What is your “other” favorite city in the world? I
love to visit London. It is a vibrant city, a real
metropolis with its ethnic mix, great food and
culture. Spending a morning at the market on
Portobello Road, followed by a visit to an art
exhibit at the Tate or Victoria & Albert Museum
and a meal in Chinatown is my preferred way
to spend a weekend away. Not to forget a visit
to the bookshop Waterstones with its four floors
full of books.
What is your favorite mode of transport? I am
aware this is not a politically correct answer,
but I love cars and I like driving them. My
father imported American cars to Peru, so
every year he had the latest model. He was
also an amateur rally driver, so I was exposed
to cars since I was very young. One of the
games I used to play as a child during long
drives was to count Volkswagens (the Beetle).
A white one was 20 points, a black 50 and a
red was 100; the rest just counted as 10. I
usually won the game.
“I feel like B sides
Me with a tour group in Bern
47

The Journey: 1975/76 in the USA
USA or bust… off to Buffalo from England we went, for a year. An exchange of university
professorship for my husband meant swapping houses too, so we redecorated our home,
cleaned it to the point of insanity (mine) and packed up, while looking after an eighteen-month
old toddler and a three-year-old, all in a heat wave (yes, despite what you might think, even in
the UK we do get heatwaves occasionally).
The children stayed awake throughout the flight, until on landing we were enveloped in the
warm marshmallow of a summer's night in Washington. A good night’s sleep restored us all,
because our offspring had stayed awake so long on the journey that they slept through the
time change. We picked up our car, an impressive 6-cylinder Ford, a little shorter than a jumbo
jet and just about as difficult to park, and drove north.
Our house in downtown Buffalo, NY, was straight out of Lady and the Tramp, two minutes from
the police watering-hole of Dunkin’ Donuts. We inherited a network of friends in the Buffalo
Philharmonic and the faculty, and we spent every vacation travelling, while John still managed
to fit in holding an exhibition of his work and teaching people to climb, up in Canada.
The car broke down on every trip - Alabama in a tropical storm, the middle of Kansas on a
sweltering summer Sunday, the Quebec hinterland with nothing between us and the North Pole
but moose and caribou.
We gazed in wonder at the Fall in New England
and Niagara Falls in the winter. We experienced
“Lake Effect” snow and an ice storm. We visited
Santa in his workshop, and we met a hungry bear.
An Algonquin elder in his long house became
aggressive with my husband when he realized that
he came from Gravesend - “Give us back
Pocahontas!” We went down the Mississippi to New
Orleans and up the Eastern Seaboard to Maine. We
survived a hurricane in the Delta and lost the car
keys forever beneath the sands of Florida. We
endured the wettest summer for years in the
Rockies, complete with mudslides, and got altitude
sickness going over the Great Divide. We camped
in Monument Valley and bought Navajo jewellery.
We walked in the desert in 49 degrees Celsius. We
marvelled at Bryce, Arches, Zion, Yellowstone,
Mount Rushmore, Mesa Verde, the Grand
Canyon… so many places.
Our fearless two-year-old daughter tried to hurl
herself down every canyon and over every
precipice. She survived the trip only due to welltethered
baby reins.
At the top of the Grand Canyon
We met a rich cross-section of intelligent, fascinating people (musicians, conductors, professors,
artists, writers ) and idiots (“Mummy, are those people supposed to be feeding popcorn to the
bears?”), (“Gee, you come from England… what language do they speak there?”), and
benefited from great kindness - “I’ll jess leave my [nearly 7-foot tall] son here to guard your wife
and kids while we go into town and find a garage that’s open on a Sunday afternoon.”
48

Rules for long-distance driving with small kids:
-Drive at night whenever possible.
-Don’t stop to eat - you eat in the car, and
you stop to run around!
The years were 1975 and 1976 - the Bicentennial! On
our trip through New England we coincidentally
arrived in Concord, Massachusetts, 200 years to the
day after the first shots of the Revolution were fired…
The re-enacting “militiamen” of varying ages and
girths did their best to impress us. I quote from
Garrison Keillor - “All in all, these were not the sort of
people whom you would want firing muskets around
a crowd…” By the end of ‘76 the children thought
that the only colors in America were red, white and
blue, with silver stars.
When the time came to leave we held a potluck
party and said a reluctant good-bye to the amazing
friends we had made, swapping last-minute recipes
which are still family favorites.
The journey home - a mad dash to Hamilton, Ontario
(before visa expires and we can’t get back in to the
States!) with a huge crate of accumulated
possessions to be shipped home, including bales of
items from the summer White Sales, which we are still
using. Clean up Buffalo house in summer heat
(again!) - forget the windows (because I keep losing
count at 44), collapse in hot train, catch plane, oof!
John and the kids, Arches National Park at 49 °C
We landed back in London in an all-consuming heat wave (again!), the hire car took hours to
collect and was the wrong size, being too small by a factor of at least 4! We crammed in and
piled the luggage on top of ourselves. The long drive north in the non air-conditioned car,
became the journey from hell, the children remaining wide awake. They had slept on the plane
- their mother had not.
Mummy: “I’ll drive… please let me drive!”
Daddy: “Oh no need, really! I’m fine, you just amuse the kids.”
It was like coming home to Hades… without even a Dunkin’ Donut to comfort us.
Rosie Bevis is from the UK and currently lives in Montpellier. She is a member of the AWG of
Languedoc Roussillon, and when not writing spends her time teaching, travelling and
volunteering. She is a very bad patchworker, loves walking and exploring the region, being with
her grandchildren, reading and playing with the cat.
49

Genoa, Italy: Cruising Round the World
ANN DeSIMONI
American International Women’s Club of
Genoa, Italy
From: Chicago, IL
Lives: Genoa, Italy
I was born in Chicago and I lived in three other states
on the east coast while growing up. I moved back to
a Chicago suburb to finish high school and complete
nursing school.
After graduating from nursing school I moved to
Chicago’s south side and worked an intense 2 years
at Cook County Hospital female gynecology city
prison facilities and psychiatric unit and, to calm my
nerves on the weekends, I worked at Children’s
Memorial, now known as Lurie Children’s Hospital.
Immediately after graduation I had this inner necessity
to serve and assist. So as you can tell, in these two
years I worked and worked.
To experience a different side of nursing I moved to
Atlanta, Georgia to help a friend open his private practice. On my first vacation I took a cruise
with this friend and his family to the Caribbean and that is where I met my future husband, deck
officer on “The Love Boat” and, from that day forward, my passion for travel and overall cruising
began. Eleven months later I moved to Italy to start a new life beginning with a new work
experience at an international hospital in Genoa. Because I did not speak a single word of
Italian, the tales of many funny language stories came into being.
As a young mom, it seemed
only natural to get involved
at my children’s school, their
sports activities and events,
and at our church. I was the
only nurse (and still am) in our
small village. So everyone got
to know me as a lot of inhome
care is routine in Italy.
At the hospital where I
worked, I introduced the first
Christmas party and grab
bag gift exchange. Then it
was one party after another.
The Italians loved it.
I have been involved with
FAWCO for many years and
had many positions, both in
my local club and in FAWCO.
Porto Antico of Genoa
50

To me FAWCO is an exciting no-pay
work sector, which is full of challenges
and surprises. It engages my head
and my heart. It motivated me from
within to give the most of myself for
the welfare of others. It meets my
values in life. I’ve met and become
friends with numerous people in
different positions and walks of life.
Being a FAWCO volunteer has made
me a better person. I’ve been saying
it since 1990: FAWCO is my passion, it is
what I do for myself.
There are three things that have
happened through my involvement in
FAWCO that make me happy. First
was my own “Kids Help” project for
the Target Project which created Target cruise with FAWCO friends
awareness among our members’
children of the less fortunate kids in the world. It consisted of gift certificate in the name of a child
of your choice. This certificate, piece of paper that it was, earned thousands of dollars for Target.
With the sponsorship of my club and their trust in me, I happily organized the charity cruises for
the various Foundation projects: 384 passengers raised more than $32,000 while being together
in a harmonious group of friends, old and new, being on the same track and giving from the
heart. Third was receiving the Caroline Curtis Brown Spirit Award in 2007 which was special.
IN CONVERSATION WITH ANN…
What are your top 5 places to visit where you
live? My favorite region in Italy is Tuscany and
the city of Florence only a few hours’ drive
away from my home. It is packed full with
amazing architecture, history, it’s the
birthplace of the Renaissance, culture and
let’s not forget the Chianti wine. I encourage
everyone at least once in their lifetime to visit.
My second choice is the Amalfi Coast, which
requires more than a day to visit. You can’t go
there without seeing the cliff-side village of
Positano and stopping in at the church of
Santa Maria Assunta, which has a majolica
dome and holds the sacred Byzantine icon of
the Virgin Mary. Enjoy the Isle of Capri boat
experience and visit the Blue Grotto and the
Gardens of Augustus. Sorrento hosts a majestic
cathedral and is home of the delicious
limoncello liqueur. Amalfi is a waterfront village
with colorful houses and famous beaches. No
visit would be complete without going to
Pompeii or Herulaneum to see the ancient
ruins.
Third, Verona is a city in northern Italy that
won’t disappoint you if you are looking for
romance. You can walk or bike the footsteps
of Romeo and Juliet. You’ll find the pink
marble amphitheater that dates back to 1 st
century AD, which today host thousands of
people for the annual summer opera and rock
music festivals.
Fourth, Venice is the ideal honeymoon
destination which I can attest for in person.
This, fairy-tale city is best known for its lagoons,
magical alleyways, romantic bridges and
golden domes. If you’re in Venice you must
take a gondola ride down the Grand Canal.
Fifth, Rome is the place where you can step
back in time and have one of the best history
lessons ever. Known as the Eternal City.
Ancient fountains, Renaissance palaces,
classical ruins, places of worship, museums and
a smorgasbord of eateries will make your time
in the city fly by.
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What is the best-kept secret in your city?
Genoa probably is not on most people’s list
when they start to plan a trip to Italy, but it is a
great place to start for experiencing the
“dolce vita,” and why not start at the gateway
of the Italian Rivera. The city hosts the largest
harbor aquarium in Europe, kids love visiting
the life size pirate ship permanently docked in
Porto Antico and only a few steps away you
can discover the charm of the old city and its
medieval winding streets, historic center and
the UNESCO Palazzi dei Rolli. Most people
don’t know that pesto sauce and foccacia
bread originated right here .
What is the one
thing you see
someone do that
makes you know
that they are a
tourist? It is almost
impossible for any
tourist to resist the
special inexpensive
treat of gelato with
its more than 80
flavors, so when I
see the crowds of
happy faces
outside the icecream
shops, I
could bet my
bottom dollar they’re tourists.
If you could travel to one place you’ve never
been, where would it be? I couldn’t possibly
pick just one place with so much of the world
I’ve yet to discover but one continent, yes, I
could do that. Spectacular nature, music,
dance and great passion: South America is a
single destination full of life. I could choose to
stay on the splendid beaches of Brazil and
explore lively cities or go to Uruguay and
search out its colonial heritage corners, visit its
famous Finger Beach, which is host to the giant
fingers emerging from the sand. Head to
Argentina and the city of Buenos Aires, the
water falls of Igazù and the blue glaciers of
Patagonia. This seductive continent could
conquer me for sure.
What is your “other” favorite city in the world?
One of the cities that I enjoyed immensely
during a 28-day stay was Tokyo. The Skytree is
the world’s highest skywalk, and its view is
different from all the others I’ve ever seen.
Tsukiji fish market with its everyday 5 am live
tuna auction is a crazy moment of adrenaline
rush for many. If you like trains, then you’ll love
the Shinjuku railway station, which moves 3.5
million passengers a day. It is actually a station
where 5 stations all come together. No wonder
it took me 30 minutes to find my platform! A
fascinating fact about Tokyo is that every few
meters you’ll find vending machines. They sell
everything, really everything. Clothes, toilet
paper, umbrellas, hot and cold food and drink,
batteries, fresh flowers and vegetables, to
name just a few. The Hanami festival in April,
which lasts
a b o u t t w o
weeks, features
the national
s y m b o l o f
Japan, the
c h e r r y
b l o s s o m s .
People are
always in awe
when they view
my photos of
S h i b u y a
Crossing, where
2500 people
cross the street
At the Shibuya train station in Tokyo, watching commuters cross the
road
i n s e v e r a l
directions all at
the same time. What about the invention of
the capsule hotels? Just a cubby hole space
to spend the night that is cheap and cozy.
Most of all, I loved feeling safe while I walked
the streets alone at night to see the neon-lights
and the kindness of the local people.
What is your favorite mode of transport? A
cruise ship of course. I love being able to visit
several places during a holiday and then
choose to go back for a longer stay at the
places I enjoyed the most.
You Tube video of Italy
52

Berkshire, England: From Australia With Love
SHELLEY FREDMAN
AWBS International Women’s Club,
England
From: Sydney, Australia
Lives: Ascot, Berkshire, England
I was born and raised in the eastern suburbs of Sydney,
Australia, in Rose Bay, between Bondi Beach and Watsons
Bay. My immediate family was pretty run of the mill for the
time: mum, dad, younger brother. My brother and I attended
local schools and I never really ventured far from home. My
family is very close-knit, surrounded by aunts and uncles and
cousins and friends who were as close as family could be. My
father once said in a speech, you can choose your friends but
not your family and we are blessed with both. He was
right! Family celebrations are HUGE and that’s just my father’s
side. Mum’s side is just as big, but we are not as close with that
part of the family.
I’m the second youngest of first cousins; they are all married
now and some of them have had kids and, yes, we are so close that 3rd, 4th cousins are seen
often, and are counted as friends.
I always knew I wanted to work in advertising and marketing. Despite doing well at school, I
failed my final year exams. My dream disappeared in seconds. I remember slamming my
bedroom door and howling for hours. My parents said there are many ways to get into the
industry; I just had to think of a different approach. And so I went to secretarial school instead
and set off into the world.
I had several secretarial/administration jobs in various local businesses. But I still wanted to get
into the advertising/marketing industry, so I enrolled into a part-time evening course at college. It
was there that I met
T o d d , w h o j u s t
happened to work at a
large multinational
advertising agency. He
told me they were
desperate for a
receptionist in the
media department and
that he thought I’d be
perfect. I was the worst
receptionist ever, but
somehow, somewhere
they saw promise.
Long story short, after a
while as receptionist I
got an interview with
At the rugby with my family
53

the advertising director of a leading women’s magazine and I never looked back. I had a stellar
career on some of Australia’s leading women’s magazines, and ultimately The Australian
newspaper. I have had many proud career moments, but the biggest one, was leading the
change from black-and-white newspapers to colour in Sydney and Melbourne for News Limited.
When my (now) husband and I decided to have a baby, we moved about an hour and 15
minutes away from home/mum/family, and I stepped back from my career. To be honest, I
struggled for a few months in this new area, so several days a week, I would pop bub in her car
seat and drive “home” to hang out with friends in familiar surroundings. The funny thing is,
moving to Dublin with no
friends, not knowing my way
around and with a toddler
was in many ways so much
easier. I think it was the
excitement of a move; the
unknown was kind of thrilling,
and even when things got
tough home was too far
away so I had to just put on
my big girl pants (yet again)
and deal with it.
M y h u s b a n d w a s
r e c o m m e n d e d f o r a
contract assignment in
Dublin by several colleagues,
and after a bit of discussion
we thought why not? It was a
2-year contract. There was a
beginning, a middle and an
end, so why not?
Still Aussie through and through!
This was to be just the start of an international life. We’ve lived in Dublin; Japan; Winchester, UK;
back to Dublin and now Berkshire, England. We’ve had tons of visitors over the years and
travelled around the places we’ve lived. We are probably going to move on to our 6th
adventure summer 2020, but who knows?!
IN CONVERSATION WITH SHELLEY…
What are your top 5 places to visit where you
live? Windsor Castle – the history, the artwork,
the grounds, King George’s Chapel, the fact
it’s still used today as the Queen’s main
residence when she’s not at Buckingham
Palace, all great.
Great Fosters for afternoon tea – Dating back
to 1224, Great Fosters was King Henry VI’s
hunting lodge. The building is stunning. The
grounds are magnificent. And afternoon tea is
truly delicious.
The Great Windsor Park – the magnificent
grounds, the abundance of nature and open
space. Perfect open space for families.
Winchester – the Saxon capital of England.
Winchester Cathedral, the resting place of
Kings and Queens and Jane Austen (who lived
a few streets away for a few months before
she died); pretty High Street, farmers’ markets,
River Itchen, Winchester College, lots of small
villages surrounding the centre with great
restaurants and thatched-roofed houses.
London – a mere 40 minutes by train from our
home to one of the world’s most dynamic
cities. Museums. Galleries. Theatres.
Architecture. Shopping. Restaurants. The list
goes on.
54

Highclere Castle with AWBS
To walk into the Louvre, where millions of
people have gone before me and will go after
me, was just incredible. To stand in front of so
much art that I had only seen in books. To hear
our then 4-year-old, say “there’s Julia” when
she saw Degas’, Little Dancer, made me cry
tears of joy. She had been watching Little
Einstein's children’s TV, and knew all about
Egyptian hieroglyphics and Roman statues,
and was eager to explore that section of the
gallery herself.
One visit back to Paris was to see a friend’s
daughter from Sydney perform her last show at
the Moulin Rouge! She had been there two
years, and we simply had not got around to
visiting, but there was no way we were going
to miss her very last show.
If you could travel to one place you’ve never
been, where would it be? Just one? That’s not
fair. Since becoming an expat I found that
there are simply too many places to explore.
Our bucket list just keeps expanding as friends
post their holidays onto social media and we
think, wow, that looks great, let’s go there. But
IF I have to choose one, it would be Africa to
see the animals, visit a school/s and help with
the kids, experience a home stay.
What is your favourite mode of transport and
why? My car (as bad as that might be). Why?
Because it gives me control over when and
where I go. It gives me independence. It can
be packed to the brim for a driving holiday, or
take friends on an adventure.
Or Egypt. Friends just got back from spring
break there and it looked amazing!
What is your “other” favorite city in the world?
Paris, because it was our first visit to an
international city as a family. To finally be
there, when I had only seen it in movies, or
books or friends’ photos, was incredible. I
walked around with my eyes bulging and my
mouth open in WOWness and my husband
needed to grab my arm several times as I was
in a world of my own, oblivious to the other
people on the street or the crazy drivers.
At the Greenwich Mean Time line
There are just so many heart-warming firsts for
us. Our daughter turned 4 years old on our first
trip (I have been fortunate to have been 3
more times), and she was engaged and
curious, which obviously helped us enjoy the
few days we were there.
55

A Club Inspires: AWC Bogotá
There are FAWCO clubs of all sizes and shapes across the world. “A Club Inspires” is a feature
where you will learn more about one of them. This time we are pleased to introduce to you the
American Women’s Club of Bogotá, Colombia, from Region 10. Over to their president, Mary
Stange...
When, why, and by whom was your club started?
The American Women’s Club of Bogotá has been
operating and flourishing for over 72 years since its
founding in November 1947 by a group of 30 North
American women residents of Bogotá. With President
Florence Smith at the helm, the group wished to
“promote unity and good fellowship in the American
community” while furthering “social, cultural, and
benevolent activities” within Bogotá.
AWCB President Mary Stange
How many members do you have and what is their
nationality? Today, Bogotá is a very multi-national city
with tons of international business and a large
diplomatic community. Within our club, we have 185
women representing countries all across the world!
Our club breaks down to approximately 46%
Americans, 24% Colombians, and 30% other
nationalities representing countries such as Canada,
Germany, Russia, and Peru.
Additionally, there is a great variety of reasons why
each member is in Colombia to begin with. Many are expats, either diplomats, brought by a
spouse’s job, or married to a Colombian, but many members are also locals who have lived in
Colombia their entire lives. Our club is diverse and cultured, much like the land of Colombia!
How does the club run? The
board of our club consists of 16
members elected annually in
November, serving a one-year
term. Many board members
have served more than one
term in their current positions.
All clubs, no matter their focus
or agenda, desire higher
participation and volunteerism
f r o m t h e i r m e m b e r s .
Considering the size of AWC
Bogotá, our members have a
high level of activity and
engagement in the club.
What kind of events do you
have in your club? Our Program
Coordinators do an excellent
job at bringing unforgettable,
The AWCB Shopping Group visited a local carpet factory
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unique activities to club members. These range from a trip to a private orchid garden, a visit to
the presidential palace, and informative general meetings on the current Venezuelan crisis.
Members remain active through many exclusive activities only found within AWC.
Since our club is so large, we have had to find a way to break it down to effectively engage
our members. While we have many programs that cater to the club at large, most of our
activities are centered around smaller, interest-based sub-groups. There is truly something for
everyone in AWC Bogotá!
One of the most popular
sub-groups is the Shopping
Group. And let’s be honest
— shopping really is most
people’s favorite thing to
do when they travel. The
Shopping Group really
serves two major functions
within the club: first, to
organize monthly shopping
outings to unique, off-thebeaten-path
locations,
and second, to provide
shopping and living tips
around the city.
Our popular Shopping Group with Mario Hernandez, handbag designer
Several of our sub-groups
focus on physical activities:
cooking clubs, out-to-lunch groups, coffee meetups, happy hour, dancing, hiking, playgroups,
book clubs, etc. But many of our sub-groups are information based, centered on sharing
information on the city and different activities! The “Getting Glam,” Families, Travel, and Arts &
Crafts groups are the most popular.
Which cause do you raise money for and how do you do raise it? AWC Bogotá supports 13
local charities through donations of milk and groceries. We help a diverse population, from
young girls in rehab to
paraplegics, elderly care to
after-school programs. The
extremely dedicated
members of the Social
Services team spearhead
this effort, visiting each
organization quarterly to
ensure recipients are
following ethical practices
and effectively using our
donations. Our club is
poised in a very good
position to help local
o r g a n i z a t i o n s s i m p l y
because there is so much
need within Colombia itself.
We have immediate
access to our organizations
and are very hands-on in
their development.
Ladies of the Hiking Group explore a new trail every month
57

Much of our philanthropic
giving is sustained through
m e m b e r d u e s ,
supplemented with the
occasional fundraiser. In the
past, those have included
larger events: fashion shows,
galas, or concerts. As the
club has grown and
changed in recent years, we
have felt the necessity to
change with the flow and
interest of members. Today,
we sustain our fundraising
through smaller events such
as bingo, trivia night, and a
Christmas bazaar, with even
smaller, “micro-fundraisers”
thrown in the mix.
Members of the Melting Pot group donated pies to our annual Thanksgiving Lunch. A
treat for all!
What was your own favorite activity last year?
This past year, my favorite activity was our annual Thanksgiving lunch. What made this event so
special was the way it incorporated many segments of our club that might not otherwise
interact. Rather than being provided by one group or committee, our sub-groups were all
engaged to donate specific dishes. Potatoes and stuffing were provided by the Cooking Club,
green bean casserole by the Vegetarian Cooking Group, pies from the Melting Pot and drinks
from the Out to Lunch Bunch. It was truly a celebration of coming together and cooperation to
create a truly amazing meal with local flair. And to me, there’s no better way to come together
than through food.
Tell us a little about your city and country in general? Is it as you imagined? Colombia might be
most known for its dark and violent history, but there is so much cultural beauty that is present
just below the surface. With artists such as Gabriel García Márquez and Fernando Botero, not to
mention the enormous music scene, Colombia is bursting with color, flavor, and personality. A
simple walk through Bogotá’s La Candelaria neighborhood will show the heritage this city holds
with its colorful facades and small, cobblestone streets.
A collection of hats in the traditional style of Colombia’s
coastal regions
It’s been uplifting to
see young Colombian
entrepreneurs doing
everything they can to
c h a n g e p u b l i c
perception of their
home country in any
way they can, mostly
through tourism. They
want to remove that
negative stigma about
Colombia that you still
h e a r t o d a y .
Everywhere you look,
you’ll find young
people engaged in
opening their hearts
and culture to show
the real Colombia, the
58

one that’s full of life, food, a
little pain, but most of all, pride
in who they are and where
they came from.
Colombia has some of the most
diverse land on the planet,
from misty mountain climates to
sunny Caribbean beaches,
both rich in fauna and flora.
Moreover, Colombia has some
of the greatest agricultural
diversity in the world and even
has the capacity to be a future
world food reserve!
Tell us about any unusual/
interesting traditions or traits of
the locals. My favorite
Government buildings inside Bogotá’s largest plaza, Bolivar Square
Colombian phrase is que pena.
It can mean anything from “excuse me” to a laid-back “what a shame”. If you bump into
someone on the street… que pena. If your fork falls on the floor… que pena. If you’re caught in
the rain without an umbrella… que pena.
I’ve been told this flexible phrase has different connotations in other Spanish-speaking countries
and one might even take offense if it’s used to a non-Colombian…. But I suppose all one can
do is shrug and say… que pena.
Why not come and visit us one day! Mary x
An aerial view of Bogotá’s most well-known vista and accompanying church, Monserrate. It sits on a hill above the city and can
be reached via cable car, funicular, or hiking path.
59

Frankfurt, Germany: Walking Tours
JODEAN ATOR
American International Women’s Club
Frankfurt Taunus Rhein-Main, Germany
From: Columbus, OH
Lives: Frankfurt am Main, Germany
I grew up in Columbus, Ohio. I was an only child. My
parents divorced when I was 4, then Mom remarried
and my step-dad adopted me. He died of ALS when I
was 12 and she remarried again when I was 15, giving
me 4 step-siblings.
After high school I tried college for 2 quarters, then
moved to Florida for 2 years, then back to Ohio. I
worked in fast food management and joined the Army Reserve when I was 26. At 28 I had my
son and married his father. Sadly, this only lasted for 2 years.
My Army Reserve unit came to Germany
in 1986 and I met a German man whom I
later married and had a daughter with.
We divorced when she was 5. In 2001, a
childhood friend found me on
Classmates.com and we reconnected,
leading to marriage 2 years later. We
have been happily married since 2003.
I have always been a history buff and
living in Frankfurt provides me with tons of
material to choose from. My husband
and I began a walking tour business in
2008, which lets us indulge our passion for
history and get paid for doing it.
it feels like I have led an adventuresome
life, grabbing for the gusto wherever I
could, laughing as often as possible. It
has also been a rather poor life with true
struggles just to pay rent, raise my kids as
a single mom, living in a foreign country. I
h e l d b a c k f r o m j o i n i n g
the Women’s Club here for many years
because I wasn't sure if it would be a
good fit. Frankly, I wish I would have
joined a long time ago. The women are
fantastic and I have made lots of friends.
My worries were unfounded.
In my Army Reserve Unit
60

IN CONVERSATION WITH JODEAN…
Tell us about a typical day for you.
Many days, I am at the airport picking
up a tour, as we specialize in layover
tours in Frankfurt. We tour the city for
several hours and then they fly away.
On days off, I may go to a nearby
town to explore or go on a tour in
Frankfurt led by one of my many tour
guide friends.
What are your top 5 places to visit
where you live? The Rhine and the little
towns along it. Büdingen, which is a
walled, medieval city. Frankfurt
Höchst, which is a charming
neighborhood in our city. Limburg, a
town filled with unique half-timbered buildings.
What is the best-kept secret in your city? The
Carmeliter Cloister. Beautiful, old wall paintings
from the 1500’s and it is not in any guidebook.
What is the one thing you see someone do that
makes you know that they are a tourist?
Waiting to cross the street at zebra crossings.
Everyone else just walks because the cars and
trams have to stop there. There is also the
“Tourist Clutch,” people holding on to their
bags for dear life, afraid that someone will
grab them.
What is your “other” favorite city in the world?
San Francisco. It’s beautiful, historical, multicultural,
great food, and it is on the water.
What is your favorite mode of transport and
why? Trains. So comfy and fast. It is scary riding
in cars after only using trains and buses for the
past 32 years.
If you could travel to one place you’ve never
been, where would it be? I would go to Egypt. I
have always wanted to go there since I was a
child. I longed to be an archaeologist.
You Tube video of Frankfurt
61

If You Could Own A Famous Building Which Would It Be?
Burj Khalifa in Dubai would be my dream building
to own. It always impresses me … how could
something so tall be built? Dubai is fun – fun for
the whole family with a pinch of a dream …
perfect holiday destination. Everything in Dubai
seems perfect, which gives me hope that there
would not be much
to do to maintain
“my building” and I
could just interact
with the incredible
international mix of
its visitors.
JANA LINHARTOVA-
SAMDANI
The White
H o u s e
because
then I
would be
President
a n d
could try
and get our country straightened out as I
have common sense. I wanted to be
President when I was a child and
everyone told me I couldn’t because I
was a girl.
JODEAN ATOR
The Longaberger basket making company building
in Newark, Ohio. Its got the WOW factor. Happy
memories pop into mind! Wouldn’t it be marvelous
to give away picnics to the hungry people in the
w o r l d ? T h i s
wouldn’t just be
an act of charity,
it would make a
happy memory
for someone by
creating a unique
and dignified
experience. ANN DeSIMONI
The Sydney Opera
House simply
because it is unique
and brings such joy
to so many people
for so many different
reasons.
It’s in my home city,
on the most stunning harbor in the world. It’s
located on Tubowgule, a place of gathering and
belonging. The Gadigal and Sydney Basin clans
would meet on the island, dance, feast and sing,
exchange knowledge and share stories - and that
spirit lives on under the sails.
SHELLEY FREDMAN
The buildings around the Piazza Santo
Stefano in Bologna. The view of the
churches, the windows of the very old
buildings, the square itself, is breath
taking. There is one particular flat
there that has a terrace with a huge
bouganvilla that I love looking at.
FRANCESCA BRASCHI FACCHINI
Warner Brothers’ studio in Los Angeles.
It’s a very interesting place for someone
who works in the movies. I could see
behind the scenes and all the hard work
going on 17 to 18 hours a day. I could
be on
the spot
to see all
that.
JEANY AL
SAHURI
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Marrakesh, Morocco: Magical Medinas
JEANETTE AL SAHURI
American International Women’s
Association of Marrakesh, Morocco
From: Germany & Morocco
Lives: Marrakesh, Morocco
I was born and raised in Stuttgart, Germany. My
father is from Palestine. My mother is half-
German and half-Moroccan.
My grandmother and mother were a big part
of my early life. They ran a Versace boutique,
which was full of celebrities. So, in my early
childhood there was lots of laughter and I often
saw racing drivers, football players and other
well-known figures.
In 2000, my father got very sick and was in hospital in Leipzig, Germany, 700km away from
Stuttgart. So, we spent six months there, sleeping in the hospital to be near him.
Then, in 2003, my mother who
was in Morocco, asked me to
go there. Since I fancied some
better weather, I decided to go.
I left Germany on Friday and by
Sunday I was in Morocco.
Marrakesh caught me and now
I will never go back to live in
Germany. I just go there to visit
and see family.
I remember vividly my first visit to
Morocco at the age of 3. Since
then, I have always been
inspired by the religion, the
food, the culture and the
people. The country is magical
for me. Every day, I am inspired
by everything. It’s the full
package. Now thanks to AIWA
Marrakesh I have been able to
get involved in charity work and
fund-raising so that I can give
something back to this country
that I love so much.
Shooting with SJP for Sex in the City 2
63

If you could travel to one place
you’ve never been, where would it
be? I would travel to Japan. I
would love to wear a kimono, take
part in the tea ceremony and
experience a culture that I have
never experienced before.
What is the one thing you see
someone do that makes you know
that they are a tourist?
They have big cameras and they
are wearing sandals and shorts. In
the medina they are on their cell
phones looking for Google Maps.
The Medina
IN CONVERSATION WITH JEANY…
What are your top 5 places to visit where you
live?
The Medina – it’s so colorful and never sleeps.
Bahia Palace – the architecture is stunning and
it’s full of history. It is a very impressive building
and full of positive energy.
Selman Hotel – it does a wonderful brunch and
is very child-friendly. It also has a stud farm.
An organic pharmacy (for example Herboriste
Marrakesh) –- with argan oil and spices. It is
very interesting to sit and listen about natural
products and medicines. We are used to
medical things, but I think natural things are
much better.
Spa and hammam (the Mamounia hotel or
Selman hotel, for example) – to relax after a
day’s sight-seeing.
What is your “other” favorite city in
the world?
New York is my favorite city. My
father was there in the 1990s. We
all visited him for a month. It’s an
amazing place and I would like to
live there for a year or two, in a
big apartment in a 40-floor
building. I also love all the food;
especially the food in Chinatown.
What is your favorite mode of transport? With 3
children or VIP guests, the car is definitely my
favorite form of transport. (Even in Marrakesh!)
Tell us about a typical day for you. I like to
show people the medina, the streets, the
spices, the carpets and rugs. There is no typical
day. Every day there is something new; it’s like
an adventure, a story book. Sometimes, I
receive a message requesting a VIP tour of the
medina, the Atlas Mountains, Essaouira or a
movie or photo shoot, with vintage clothes.
Jeany in Marrakesh
64

Barcelona, Spain: Remember to Look Up
FRANCESCA BRASCHI FACCHINI
Barcelona Women’s Network, Spain
From: Bologna, Italy
Lives: Barcelona, Spain
I was born in Bucharest, but I left when I was 3 and a
half owing to World War II. My mother and 3 girls
(including me) went to Bologna (Italy) to her father´s
house. My father stayed behind because of his work
and was able to come to Bologna only two years
later. From Bologna we moved to Madrid.
I lived in Madrid until I married and went to Milan.
That was my first winter in Italy, since, as children we
only went to Bologna and to the Dolomites for the
summer. After a year of marriage, my husband and I
went to live in Venezuela, where my son was born.
Daily life there was not easy due to crime.
After two years we moved to New York/
New Jersey and then, after another three
years, we went back to Milan. We lived
happily in Milan for five years before my
husband was offered a job in Lagos
(Nigeria). We lived in Lagos for what felt like,
three long years.
Life was very difficult because of scarcity of
food. Driving not advised without a driver.
We could not walk in the streets. Other
factors were: lack of water and electricity
(only two hours a day of the latter for days
and days), unknown diseases and scarcity
of medicines, etc. etc.
But one good thing about our time in
Nigeria was that, after so many years away
from the country, we were able to return to
Spain at the end of the assignment: not
Madrid this time, where my family was still
living, but Barcelona.
When I got to Barcelona, I took many
courses on the art of the buildings and the
city in general and I loved them. So, when
the BWN was founded, as a devotee of
A BWN Outing
65

group excursions, I volunteered to organise outings for members once a month. Talking
inspiration from Barcelona architect and academic, Joan Bassegoda i Nonell, whose
architecture tours of the city I had long enjoyed as a participant, I set up our club activity,
Outings, and it has grown and developed continually for the last two decades.
I try and seek out something extra, so the visits take in not just the touristic highlights - of which
there is no shortage in Barcelona - but also hidden gems and more painstakingly arranged trips
to see interesting places in and within easy reach of the city. I keep my ears to the ground for
newly - opened sites and insider suggestions for captivating trips. We have been to all kinds of
places over the years.
IN CONVERSATION WITH FRANCESCA…
What are your top 5 places to visit where you
live? People who come as tourists all want to
see the same things, Sagrada Familia Church,
Casa Battló, Casa Milá, Walk along Ramblas
and Passeig de Gracia, Boquería Market,
Museums. I like to take members of BWN to
places they wouldn´t normally go as they
wouldn´t know them unless they lived here for
a long time.
What is the best kept secret in your city? I
always recommend going to Colonia Güell , a
few kilometres from the city. There is a chapel
designed by Gaudi before attempting the
Sagrada Familia and a village that gives a
good picture of industrial life in the early 1900s.
And there are very few tourists.
If you could travel to one place you’ve never
been, where would it be? I would like to know
Italy more deeply. I know Spain well but I have
never been to the south of my own country, so
that would be good. Also, I would like to visit
Doing a tour in Barcelona
Germany. I know some cities but I would like to
know more of them.
What is the one thing you see someone do that
makes you know that they are a tourist? I hate
to see these groups of people following the
guide with an umbrella or a stick, all busy
taking selfies and not really looking at
buildings. One of my favorite quotes is this:
“When you walk in Barcelona, you cannot look
at your feet, you have to look up!” – Joan
Bassegoda i Nonell. It is so very true.
What is your “other” favorite city in the world?
The older I get, the more my favorite city
becomes Bologna.
What is your favorite mode of transport? When I
was younger, we liked to travel by car. Now I
prefer airplanes.
66

Photo 62 Quiz Answers
We hope you have enjoyed our quiz. Please note all information for this quiz can be
verified at YOUR leisure on Google!
Q1: Bern
Q2: London
Q3: Bogotá
Q4: Barcelona
Q5: Saudi Arabia
Q6: Cologne
Q7: Rabat
Q8: The Hague
Q9: Mumbai
Q10: Moscow
Thanks to the Photographers
Barcelona - Farhat Tyebji : Barcelona's Women's Network
Bern : Denise O'Gorman - AWC Bern
Cologne : Gerda Kohrs - AIWC Cologne
Bogotá : Mary Stange - AWC Bogotá
London : Christine Humphreys - AW Surrey
Moscow : Deborah Hoehner - AWO Moscow
Mumbai : Karen Boeker – AWC Denmark
Rabat : Cecilia Zhuang - AIWA Rabat
Saudi Arabia : Therese Hartwell - FAUSA
The Hague : Greetje Engelsman-Postma - AWC The Hague
67

Inspiring You
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More About This Issue
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Acknowledgements:
Thanks to Ann, Becky, Deanne, Denise, Francesca, Helena, Jana, Jeany, Jodean,
Jonelle, Mary, Nezha, Shelley, Teresa and the ladies of AWC Bogotá for taking the
time to participate in this edition and for the use of their photos and those of their
friends and families. Thanks also to writers Jennifer, Judi, Rebecca and Rosie for their
pieces, too.
Special thanks to the proofreading team of Karen Boeker (AWC Denmark), Sallie
Chaballier (AAWE Paris), Laurie Brooks (AWC Amsterdam/AWC The Hague), Mary
Dobrian (AIWC Cologne), Carol-Lyn McKelvey (AIWC Cologne/FAUSA), Janis Kaas
(AAWE Paris/FAUSA), Lauren Mescon (AWC Amsterdam), Mary Stewart Burgher (AWC
Denmark) and Jenny Taylor (AIWC Cologne and Düsseldorf).
Copyright 2019 FAWCO
Inspiring Women© Magazine is owned and published electronically by FAWCO.
All rights reserved. All bylined articles are copyright of their respective authors as indicated herein and
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