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Jeweller - 2019 Synthetic Diamond Detector Report

Synthetic diamonds have been one of the most controversial categories of the jewellery industry, with the last 24-months of shifts in economy and media coverage bringing about a lot of changes for the larger industry. While synthetic diamonds have been popularised, its increased production has had unforunate consequences in the larger trade with breaches occurring in packets of natural diamonds. The number of synthetic diamonds passed off as natural stones is increasing, but many jewellers still lack the technology to tell them apart. It's never been more important for diamond buyers to be prepared, and armed with reliable equipment to know exactly whether their stones are natural or created. Read Jeweller's following guide to compare some of the industry's most trusted diamond detectors.

Synthetic diamonds have been one of the most controversial categories of the jewellery industry, with the last 24-months of shifts in economy and media coverage bringing about a lot of changes for the larger industry.

While synthetic diamonds have been popularised, its increased production has had unforunate consequences in the larger trade with breaches occurring in packets of natural diamonds.

The number of synthetic diamonds passed off as natural stones is increasing, but many jewellers still lack the technology to tell them apart. It's never been more important for diamond buyers to be prepared, and armed with reliable equipment to know exactly whether their stones are natural or created.

Read Jeweller's following guide to compare some of the industry's most trusted diamond detectors.

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VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY


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ester Australia A ceted Arle i iad Certificate accaies<br />

all Pink Kimberley pieces containing pink diamonds greater than 0.08ct.<br />

PinkKimberley.com.au<br />

E pink@samsgroup.com.au W samsgroup.com.au P 02 9290 2199<br />

SAMS GROUP<br />

AUSTRALIA


EDITORIAL<br />

THINKING PINK: SUNSET VERSUS SUNRISE<br />

One of the world’s most amazing diamond<br />

mines is set to close at the same time the<br />

diamond industry is in upheaval.<br />

Rio Tinto’s Argyle Mine, located in remote<br />

Western Australia about 2,600km from Perth<br />

– and billed as the ‘world’s biggest’ mine – will<br />

cease production next year. First established<br />

in 1983, the mine became famous for high<br />

quality ‘pinks’ and ‘reds’.<br />

Argyle is responsible for producing about 90<br />

per cent of the pink diamonds on the market.<br />

The mine has had a fascinating history, and<br />

not just because of its stones. In the 1990s,<br />

Argyle decided to challenge the might of<br />

De Beers and was, eventually, the catalyst<br />

for the collapse of De Beers’ diamond supply<br />

monopoly.<br />

Today, Argyle is an internationally recognised<br />

brand, one that garners the maximum<br />

premium for its product. The Australian mine<br />

is not the only source of pink stones, but it is<br />

recognised as the best – without equal.<br />

While the two are unrelated, it is an interesting<br />

coincidence that Argyle’s imminent closure<br />

(sunset) is happening at the same time the<br />

synthetic diamond market is gaining traction<br />

(sunrise), although the latter still represents<br />

just two per cent of all diamond sales.<br />

Indeed, De Beers helped kickstart consumer<br />

attention on man-made diamonds when it<br />

launched Lightbox last year, a collection of<br />

so-called ‘laboratory-grown’ diamonds. The<br />

only surprise about the diamond behemoth’s<br />

move was its timing; many people wondered<br />

why it took so long.<br />

However, what really threw the cat among<br />

the pigeons was the fact that it introduced<br />

a linear pricing model; a quarter-carat stone<br />

retails at US$200, a half-carat US$400, and<br />

US$800 for a one-carat. It makes sense,<br />

after all: they are man-made and quality<br />

can be controlled.<br />

In addition, De Beers’ ‘laboratory-grown’<br />

diamonds do not undergo grading, further<br />

strengthening the view that the quality/<br />

grading variance inherent in natural stones –<br />

and for which consumers pay varying prices –<br />

further strengthens the argument that quality<br />

can be controlled during the manufacturing<br />

process just like in any other factory.<br />

The company’s position is simple: one labgrown<br />

diamond is no better or worse than<br />

any other in the line-up. Another fair point,<br />

however, in order to create a sizeable market<br />

niche for man-made stones, many other<br />

manufacturers are partaking in a good oldfashioned<br />

land grab.<br />

While the mined diamond industry has<br />

been held accountable for its practices and<br />

ethics for decades, and rightly so, the manmade<br />

market has been enjoying a period of<br />

unquestioning media coverage – often by<br />

consumer media – and celebrities ready to<br />

accept any claim made by the many so-called<br />

‘eco-friendly’ brands.<br />

Their claims about ‘lab-grown’ diamonds<br />

IN THE 1990S,<br />

ARGYLE<br />

DECIDED TO<br />

CHALLENGE<br />

THE MIGHT<br />

OF DE BEERS<br />

AND WAS,<br />

EVENTUALLY,<br />

THE CATALYST<br />

FOR THE<br />

COLLAPSE<br />

OF DE BEERS’<br />

DIAMOND<br />

SUPPLY<br />

MONOPOLY<br />

having superior sustainability and lesser<br />

environmental impacts are too often<br />

unchallenged. For a start, because something<br />

is sustainable doesn’t make it good, in a similar<br />

way that a natural or organic product is not<br />

automatically good for you.<br />

Swallow some ‘natural’ arsenic or eat a raw<br />

potato and see what happens!<br />

Likewise, the claim that man-made diamonds<br />

are sustainable, in the sense that they avoid<br />

the depletion of natural resources in order<br />

to maintain an ecological balance, is highly<br />

questionable given the natural resources –<br />

that is, fossil fuels – used to run these factories.<br />

And let’s be clear, these diamonds are<br />

manufactured under factory-like processes<br />

– unlike the impression that the name<br />

‘laboratory-grown’ conjures up.<br />

So, putting aside all the science and<br />

nomenclature, the eco-friendly claims,<br />

marketing jargon and snake oil salesmen,<br />

can anyone rightfully argue that you can<br />

compare a one-carat pink diamond, mined<br />

from the remarkable red earth in remote<br />

outback Australia and whose colour origin is a<br />

still a mystery today, to a one-carat synthetic<br />

pink diamond bombarded with radiation in a<br />

De Beers factory?<br />

If you would like to try, I have a bridge for<br />

sale in Sydney!<br />

Coleby Nicholson<br />

Managing Editor<br />

August <strong>2019</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 9


Tourmaline - In Stock & Online Now<br />

Visit our website or call our Melbourne office for details:<br />

Room 405, 4th Floor, Wales Building, 227 Collins Street, Melbourne VIC 3000<br />

Ph: +61 (0) 3 9654 5200 / Interstate Orders 1300 843 141 E: sales@oagems.com www.oagems.com


SYNTHETIC DETECTORS REPORT<br />

The diamond detectors:<br />

searching for truth<br />

THE NUMBER OF SYNTHETIC DIAMONDS PASSED OFF AS NATURAL<br />

STONES IS INCREASING – YET MANY JEWELLERS STILL LACK THE<br />

TECHNOLOGY TO TELL THEM APART. ARABELLA RODEN REPORTS<br />

ynthetic diamonds have been one of the most controversial categories<br />

of the jewellery industry in decades. More so than any other simulant,<br />

lab-grown stones have called into question the intrinsic value of<br />

natural diamonds, as well as directly competing with lower quality<br />

and melee stones.<br />

<strong>Synthetic</strong> diamonds have been available for decades, but their application in<br />

jewellery – as opposed to industrial use – seemed limited up until recently. With<br />

technological breakthroughs to create gem-quality stones and a significant<br />

marketing push, combined with lower pricing, it’s estimated that they represent<br />

about 2 to 3 per cent of the total diamond jewellery market today.<br />

The debate around whether synthetics are innovative or disruptive – that is, if<br />

have they fundamentally changed the natural diamond market – continues,<br />

with various industry commentators believing the stones will either return to the<br />

industrial niche or maintain a significant segment in the jewellery category, albeit<br />

at the lower end of the price scale.<br />

The controversy over nomenclature reflects the broader ambivalence of the<br />

industry in embracing lab-grown diamonds – as well as the need for clarity when<br />

it comes to retailing these stones.<br />

At the CIBJO Congress ten years ago, the term ‘synthetic diamond’ was considered<br />

to be the most appropriate descriptor; yet manufacturers have continued to use<br />

alternatives such as ‘lab-grown’ or ‘created’ – which many in the industry have<br />

criticised as misleading to consumers, obscuring the factory origin of the crystals.<br />

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) uses both ‘synthetic’ and ‘laboratorygrown’;<br />

however, it does not grade synthetic diamonds on the same scale as<br />

natural stones, using general terms to describe the colour and clarity.<br />

Significantly, the 6,000 members of the world’s largest online diamond trading<br />

platform, RapNet, voted in June this year to uphold the ban on synthetic diamond<br />

trading through the system. <strong>Synthetic</strong>s are also banned at many of the world’s<br />

major diamond bourses (see figure on page 26).<br />

However, many industry experts believe the ‘tipping point’ for the industry has<br />

already arrived. It is now almost a year since De Beers entered the synthetic<br />

diamond market with its Lightbox brand, pricing the stones at US$800 per carat –<br />

about 15 per cent of the value of natural diamonds. In addition, De Beers’ prices its<br />

lab-grown stones on a linear model due to the lack of intrinsic or resale value.<br />

The price differential between the two categories has widened. In March, the<br />

wholesale price for lab-grown stones fell 60 per cent, with De Beers’ CEO Bruce<br />

Cleaver calling the margins ‘unsustainable’. Still, diamond industry analyst Paul<br />

Zimnisky has predicted the sector will enjoy an annual growth rate of 22 per cent<br />

to US$5.2 billion by 2023.<br />

The consumer appeal for these stones is predicated on two factors. The first is<br />

cost, with purchasers able to buy a larger stone for less or colours like blue, pink<br />

and green at a fraction of the price natural fancy colour diamonds command.<br />

The second factor is perceived ethical superiority. Earlier this year, the US Federal<br />

Trade Commission sent warning letters to eight high-profile synthetic diamond<br />

companies, warning them against using nebulous terms like ‘eco-friendly’,<br />

‘sustainable’ and ‘eco-conscious’, as well as mandating ‘clear and conspicuous’<br />

disclosure of lab-grown origin.<br />

The rise of synthetic diamonds has coincided with a greater consumer push<br />

for transparency, traceability and sustainability – or at least, the appearance of<br />

it. Many synthetic diamond manufacturers have touted their environmental<br />

credentials, without informing consumers of their energy-intensive processes. It<br />

has been noted that no conservation group has endorsed a synthetic diamond<br />

manufacturer, in similar ways as they have done with electric vehicles.<br />

THE CHALLENGE OF UNDISCLOSED SYNTHETICS<br />

However, there is one factor on which all sides of the diamond debate can agree:<br />

that natural and synthetic diamonds need to be differentiated.<br />

Ernie Blom, president of the World Federation of <strong>Diamond</strong> Bourses, has said, “They<br />

[synthetic diamonds] should always be disclosed so that consumers know exactly<br />

August <strong>2019</strong> <strong>Jeweller</strong> 25


SYNTHETIC DETECTORS REPORT<br />

what they are buying, and so that there is no confusion between real natural<br />

diamonds and lab-growns.”<br />

Worryingly, the GIA has encountered synthetic diamonds mixed in packets with<br />

natural diamonds, as well as natural stones coated in a synthetic layer to increase<br />

their size or change their colour.<br />

Hong Kong <strong>Diamond</strong><br />

Bourse, China<br />

BANNED<br />

Federatie der Belgische<br />

Diamantbeurzen,<br />

Belgium<br />

UNDER REVIEW<br />

Closer to home, Bill Sechos, founder of Sydney’s Gem Studies Laboratory<br />

(GSL), says, “We are now getting, on a semi-regular basis, parcels of melee from<br />

importers and retailers that are submitted for routine testing to see if there are<br />

any questionable stones. In one particular instance, nine out of 10 parcels, each<br />

containing 10 sample stones, proved to have questionable diamonds in them.”<br />

“In the last six months we have seen three larger stones – a 50-pointer, an<br />

83-pointer and 1.10-carat – that were submitted for diamond grading reports that<br />

proved to be synthetic. In all three cases they were not disclosed as synthetic,” he<br />

adds. “Fortunately, in two of the cases the diamonds were returned to suppliers<br />

overseas; but in the case of the 1.10-carat, it was bought second-hand and was not<br />

able to be returned.”<br />

For many jewellers, diamond certification from the GIA, the European Gemological<br />

Laboratory or the Scientific Gemological Laboratory can help to establish the<br />

legitimacy of a stone, and preserve its value to the consumer. However, the<br />

system isn’t foolproof; indeed, the World Federation of <strong>Diamond</strong> Bourses (WFDB)<br />

maintains a list of potentially compromised GIA certificates on its website.<br />

Recently, the BBC reported that synthetic diamonds with falsified natural<br />

certification were being advertised on the Chinese online market Alibaba. As<br />

a result, the WFDB cautions traders from accepting diamonds with suspiciouslooking<br />

paperwork or without a physical copy of the certificate.<br />

Laser-carving a microscopic GIA serial number into the surface of a natural stone<br />

is another technique used to ensure integrity – however, this carving can be<br />

removed by polishing and/or another gem’s serial number applied. British start-up<br />

Opsydia has developed a laser that can etch a security code inside a diamond so<br />

it can’t be tampered with. Similarly, US company Scarselli <strong>Diamond</strong>s has recently<br />

filed patents for its DiamTek nano-laser tagging system, which would register each<br />

tagged diamond’s unique code in a secure blockchain.<br />

But in both cases, the technology is not yet at scale; it simply won’t be applied<br />

to every single mined diamond as it is polished, nor to every single natural stone<br />

currently in the market.<br />

Provenance measures like DeBeers’ GemFair and Tracr initiatives have also been<br />

adopted to stem the flow of synthetics being passed off as natural, as well as<br />

address consumer concerns about conflict diamonds. GemFair ensures point of<br />

origin by storing rough diamonds in sealed, tamper-proof bags at the mine, while<br />

Tracr uses blockchain ledger technology during the manufacturing process.<br />

Yet the fact remains that jewellers may require more than certification to know if a<br />

diamond is genuinely natural. That’s where synthetic detectors come in. <strong>Synthetic</strong><br />

detectors collect different types of data, including visual and light clues, when<br />

examining diamonds to determine if they can either conclusively be considered<br />

natural or synthetic, or if they should be referred to a gemmologist.<br />

“The best advice for jewellers – especially those in a position to buy second hand<br />

diamonds or importing directly from overseas – is to invest in a screener as a<br />

safeguard against making the wrong decision,” Sechos explains. “All screeners reject<br />

stones that are suspect. These then have to be further tested to identify whether<br />

they are synthetic diamonds or not; if the screener refers the stone for further<br />

testing, it would be advisable to avoid it.”.<br />

<strong>Diamond</strong> Dealers Club,<br />

New York City, USA<br />

UNKNOWN<br />

Dubai <strong>Diamond</strong> Exchange, UAE<br />

ALLOWED – HOSTED FIRST<br />

SYNTHETIC TENDER IN <strong>2019</strong><br />

Bharat <strong>Diamond</strong> Bourse,<br />

Mumbai, India<br />

BANNED SINCE 2015<br />

The<br />

<strong>Diamond</strong><br />

Bourse<br />

Perspective<br />

TELL-TALE SIGNS OF LAB-GROWN DIAMONDS<br />

Shanghai <strong>Diamond</strong><br />

Exchange, China<br />

UNKNOWN<br />

Israel <strong>Diamond</strong> Exchange,<br />

Tel Aviv, Israel<br />

BANNED SINCE 2014,<br />

BUT UNDER REVIEW<br />

THE WORLD FEDERATION OF DIAMOND BOURSES TAKES A NEUTRAL STANCE ON SYNTHETIC<br />

DIAMONDS, WITH INDIVIDUAL MEMBER BOURSES DECIDING IF THEY WILL ALLOW THEM – OR NOT<br />

There are two methods to produce synthetic diamonds: high-pressure, high<br />

temperature (HPHT) and chemical vapour deposition (CVD). While chemically<br />

identical to natural diamonds, synthetics display a different growth structure. They<br />

are also used to produce the most rare types of diamonds: those with low nitrogen<br />

content, called Type II.<br />

“The colourless synthetic diamonds in the marketplace are Type II, so it is<br />

becoming more and more important to have a screening device that can<br />

differentiate between Type I and Type II diamonds to protect against unknowingly<br />

buying a synthetic diamond,” Sechos explains.<br />

Each method carries its own signatures of manufacturing, rather than Earth origin,<br />

ranging from the type – or lack of – inclusions to level of fluorescence under UV<br />

light, internal patterns, and colour zoning, among other traits. While diamond<br />

simulants such as synthetic moissanite, white sapphire and cubic zirconia can<br />

be identified with simple lab tests, a hand lens, and even with the naked eye,<br />

synthetic diamonds require sophisticated equipment to detect.<br />

“There are no discernable differences to the naked eye or under magnification that<br />

the diamond being examined is a man-made one,” Sechos says. “Visible features<br />

and properties that can be investigated using normal diamond testers and loupe<br />

or microscope examination are not different from a natural diamond; there are no<br />

‘red flags’ or warning signs which are immediately visible – instrumentation must<br />

be used.”<br />

The crucial element in delivering peace of mind is empowering jewellers to detect<br />

synthetic diamonds, allowing them to decide for themselves how they will interact<br />

with this controversial category. i<br />

Read on to discover more about the manufacturers of synthetic diamond<br />

detectors and choose which screener fits your needs – from portability to<br />

number of stones, speed and price – with <strong>Jeweller</strong>’s buying guide.<br />

26 <strong>Jeweller</strong> August <strong>2019</strong>


..<br />

<br />

Sydney Brisbane London<br />

New Zealand<br />

Melbourne<br />

Tokyo Mumbai Florence Stuttgart Chicago


DIAMOND DETECTORS<br />

ADVERTISEMENT<br />

RICKY SHAH<br />

Business<br />

Development<br />

Manager<br />

DRC TECHNO<br />

ESTABLISHED: 2012<br />

OFFICES: India, USA, Belgium,<br />

Hong Kong, Thailand, Indonesia<br />

Based in Surat, India, DRC Techno<br />

is a non-profit company founded<br />

to actively engage in research<br />

and development of technologies<br />

and solutions for the diamond<br />

manufacturing and jewellery<br />

industry. It also participates and<br />

conducts social welfare activities in<br />

the area where it operates. Its team<br />

includes gemmologists, scientists,<br />

IT specialists and electrical and<br />

mechanical engineers.<br />

When was DRC Techno founded and how<br />

has the company developed over time?<br />

Our story started back in 2006, when fewer<br />

international players were responding ontime<br />

to our parent company’s suggestions<br />

to improve existing diamond tools and<br />

machinery. We decided to create a low cost,<br />

local and fast responding not-for-profit<br />

research and development centre, which<br />

began in 2012. Initially, we started with<br />

diamond manufacturing machines for bruting<br />

and sawing; gradually, we became the world’s<br />

foremost synthetic (CVD/HPHT) diamonds<br />

research company, which now provides a<br />

solution at every price point.<br />

What have been the biggest achievements<br />

in the company’s history?<br />

In 2014, the Surat diamond industry came to<br />

a standstill because of the fear and distrust<br />

that was in the air due to undisclosed mixing<br />

of lab-grown diamonds with naturally mined<br />

diamonds. DRC Techno assembled a talented<br />

team of engineers, scientists and market<br />

analysts to tackle this problem.<br />

After rigorous research and constantly trying<br />

to figure out how to overcome the challenge<br />

– and facing numerous failures – we finally<br />

had the world’s foremost offering for<br />

identifying lab-grown diamonds from natural<br />

diamonds, the D-Secure. We really felt that<br />

we had saved the industry and that was our<br />

biggest achievement.<br />

After the success of our first product offering,<br />

there was no looking back; our drive towards<br />

protecting the industry grew twofold. In a<br />

very short span we became an international<br />

company from just being a local Surat<br />

company. Our work has been appreciated<br />

and has won many awards over the years,<br />

including two India SME Awards, an IEDRA<br />

Award and the 2018 JNA Honouree Award for<br />

Industry Innovation of the Year.<br />

How big is the company today?<br />

The DRC Group – DRC Techno, DRC Infotech<br />

and Innovseed – consists of close to 100<br />

employees. DRC Techno has provided its<br />

offerings and solutions in 27 countries,<br />

proudly having more than 1,000 happy<br />

and satisfied customers – more than<br />

60 per cent of which were referred to us<br />

by existing customers.<br />

What are the core values of DRC Techno?<br />

What sets the company apart from others?<br />

DRC Techno believes in and is strongly guided<br />

by six core values: creativity, integrity, learning,<br />

fun, excellence and respect for all. Our mission<br />

is to become the most admired, self-sufficient<br />

social enterprise – that has kept us grounded<br />

as well as helped us aim for the sky.<br />

Alongside the latest innovations, tailored to<br />

meet different budgets and requirements<br />

of the marketplace, we constantly refine<br />

our existing offerings such as our Chain of<br />

Custody software, and develop new strategies<br />

to curb the variable challenge of identifying<br />

new generations of synthetic diamonds.<br />

One initiative is our library of new synthetic<br />

diamonds. We have given more than 20<br />

software updates to date to protect our<br />

customers’ trust and business; these features<br />

set us apart from our competitors.<br />

Over and above that, we are unique in our<br />

development of a support programme<br />

superior to all others – we offer 24-hour<br />

global service.<br />

Why did DRC Techno decide to create<br />

synthetic diamond detectors?<br />

As shared earlier, in 2014, the diamond<br />

industry discovered the severe problem<br />

THE IDEOLOGY<br />

AND THE SENSE<br />

OF PURPOSE WAS<br />

CLEAR, ALONG<br />

WITH THE PASSION<br />

TO PURSUE<br />

A SOLUTION<br />

AND BECOME<br />

THE WORLD’S<br />

FOREMOST<br />

SYNTHETIC<br />

DIAMONDS<br />

RESEARCH<br />

COMPANY<br />

of undisclosed mixing of man-made<br />

diamonds with naturally mined diamonds.<br />

An atmosphere of fear, panic and distrust was<br />

created among the diamond merchants and<br />

traders in Surat – where more than 92 per<br />

cent of the diamonds from all over the world<br />

arrive for processing and polishing.<br />

Amid such chaos, DRC Techno rose to the<br />

challenge of exposing unethical business<br />

practices and protecting the diamond<br />

industry.<br />

The ideology and the sense of purpose was<br />

clear, along with the passion to pursue a<br />

solution and become the world’s foremost<br />

synthetic (CVD/HPHT) diamonds research<br />

company by launching the pioneering<br />

invention – the D-Secure.<br />

Why should retailers invest in a synthetic<br />

diamond detector?<br />

In the jewellery industry, the most important<br />

aspect I believe is consumer trust. The reason<br />

why consumers purchase their jewellery is<br />

deeply connected to emotions. The consumer<br />

deserves to be well informed and to have<br />

tested products of natural origin, nothing less<br />

than that. For retailers, having trusted testing<br />

equipment protects their own brand.<br />

What are the most important attributes for<br />

a retailer when purchasing a detector?<br />

Retailers have to look for the accuracy of an<br />

instrument, how easy it is to operate, and how<br />

simple it is to interpret the results.<br />

Efficiency and cost effectiveness are also very<br />

important. Next is the after sales service from<br />

the manufacturer and how much effort that<br />

company is investing into research.<br />

Finally, the retailer needs to consider the<br />

motives of that company and if their<br />

values align.<br />

PH: +91 990 9990 8 +91 261 2530 457<br />

www.drctechno.com<br />

®<br />

28 <strong>Jeweller</strong> August <strong>2019</strong>


DIAMOND DETECTORS<br />

ADVERTISEMENT<br />

YEHUDA<br />

DIAMOND<br />

COMPANY<br />

When was Yehuda founded and how has<br />

the company developed over time?<br />

Zvi Yehuda Ltd was founded by my father,<br />

Mr Zvi Yehuda and his father Ben Zion<br />

Yehuda in 1953 in Israel. Yehuda <strong>Diamond</strong><br />

Company – an associated company – was<br />

founded in New York in 1988 by myself and<br />

my brother Roni Yehuda.<br />

DROR YEHUDA<br />

President<br />

ESTABLISHED: 1953<br />

OFFICES: Israel, USA and Belgium<br />

Founded by Zvi Yehuda in<br />

Tel Aviv 66 years ago, Yehuda<br />

remains a family company to<br />

this day. Over the decades, it has<br />

pioneered techniques in diamond<br />

manufacture, from cleaning to<br />

laser drilling, irradiating for colour,<br />

and clarity enhancement. Today<br />

it produces both natural clarity<br />

enhanced and synthetic diamonds,<br />

as well as synthetic detectors.<br />

What have been the biggest<br />

achievements in the company’s history?<br />

Wow – that’s like asking a parent which kid<br />

he loves the most! The ones which I believe<br />

stand out were all invented by my dad, Zvi<br />

Yehuda, who was completely self-taught.<br />

He was himself the son of a diamond<br />

manufacturer, so we have very strong ties to<br />

this industry that go back generations.<br />

The first invention that I think was very<br />

significant was the laser drilling of<br />

diamonds in order to take out the black<br />

piques, which he created in 1965.<br />

Next, in 1977, was the rough diamond<br />

Five years later came the Yehuda Clarity<br />

Enhancement Process. This process hides<br />

fractures – called feather inclusions – in a<br />

diamond by inserting a minute amount of<br />

material that has the same refractive index<br />

as the diamond into the fracture.<br />

Thus making it invisible– it is still there but<br />

you just can’t see it after the process. This<br />

allows us to cut much larger stones than<br />

other companies as we don’t need to cut<br />

to remove inclusions. All the extra size,<br />

weight and beauty can be enjoyed by the<br />

consumer at no extra cost.<br />

Finally, in 2017 we created the Sherlock<br />

Holmes detector for CVD and HPHT lab<br />

grown diamonds.<br />

How big is the company today?<br />

We have offices in Tel Aviv, New York and<br />

Antwerp, and agents in Mumbai, Italy and<br />

Hong Kong.<br />

What are the core values of Yehuda?<br />

What sets your company apart<br />

from others?<br />

Our main rule is always to be different.<br />

Always lead and be innovative. Throughout<br />

our history we have always found ways to<br />

improve and use technology to create the<br />

best product.<br />

If we could not set ourselves apart, we<br />

would not be here! We deal in natural<br />

diamonds, Yehuda clarity-enhanced<br />

diamonds, lab-grown diamonds and<br />

technology for diamonds. In each area we<br />

do things differently than the others. We<br />

always try to be different and lead the pack.<br />

We also have a long history and a proud<br />

heritage, as we are a family company<br />

with several generations working within<br />

the business.<br />

Why did Yehuda decide to create<br />

synthetic diamond detectors?<br />

The need was there from the first day they<br />

became available. If the industry cannot<br />

distinguish between natural and lab-grown<br />

diamonds, it could be the end of the<br />

diamond industry as it will not be trusted<br />

anymore. Trust is key for our industry and it<br />

is on the line here.<br />

OUR MAIN RULE<br />

IS ALWAYS TO<br />

BE DIFFERENT.<br />

ALWAYS LEAD AND<br />

BE INNOVATIVE.<br />

THROUGHOUT<br />

OUR HISTORY WE<br />

HAVE ALWAYS<br />

FOUND WAYS TO<br />

IMPROVE AND USE<br />

TECHNOLOGY TO<br />

CREATE THE BEST<br />

PRODUCT<br />

able to come up with the most accurate<br />

detector and the most affordable one.<br />

We figured that the only way to protect<br />

this industry is to enable the whole supply<br />

chain to have it – now dealers, wholesalers,<br />

manufacturers, appraisers and jewellery<br />

stores can protect themselves with the<br />

Sherlock Holmes <strong>Detector</strong> for CVD and<br />

HPHT lab-grown diamonds.<br />

Why should retailers invest in a synthetic<br />

diamond detector?<br />

For every reason I’ve mentioned: keep<br />

yourself at the forefront of our industry,<br />

make sure you sell what you think you sell,<br />

and protect your name, your reputation<br />

and your customers. If you buy from the<br />

public or take in a repair, save the future<br />

accusations and check everything with<br />

Sherlock. Sherlock is your best friend.<br />

What are the most important<br />

attributes for a retailer when purchasing<br />

a detector?<br />

The Sherlock Holmes was found by the<br />

<strong>Diamond</strong> Producers’ Assocation’s Project<br />

ASSURE to detect 100 per cent of lab-grown<br />

diamonds tested.<br />

The Sherlock Holmes is easy to use – it’s<br />

user-friendly and fast, and it is lightweight,<br />

at 2.5kg, and portable. It can check<br />

individual stones, large parcels, jewellery<br />

pieces and multiple rings together.<br />

It detects simulants like loose moissanites<br />

and cubic zirconia, even if they are coated<br />

with a diamond layer, and the results can<br />

be sent by email or Bluetooth and saved<br />

in your Google Drive. The price is only<br />

US$6,495 (AU$9,228).<br />

colorimeter, which predicts the colour of<br />

a rough diamond once the stone is cut.<br />

Before that, people would just guess!<br />

We understood that we needed to make<br />

a detector that was very accurate and not<br />

too expensive at the same time. We were<br />

PHONE: + 1 212 221 5985<br />

www.yehuda.com<br />

30 <strong>Jeweller</strong> August <strong>2019</strong>


THE SHERLOCK HOLMES 2.0<br />

Lab-Grown <strong>Diamond</strong> <strong>Detector</strong><br />

Only $6,495 USD<br />

Project ASSURE:<br />

The Sherlock Holmes<br />

detected 100% of all lab grown diamonds.<br />

Scan the QR Code below to read the full report of the Assure Program<br />

performed by UL Laboratories, and see for yourself.<br />

+1-212-221-5985 | WWW.YEHUDA.COM


SYNTHETIC DETECTORS BUYING GUIDE<br />

D Secure Plus<br />

Launched in 2017, the D Secure Plus is the advanced, updated version of DRC<br />

Techno’s first synthetic diamond detector, the D Secure. This screener offers a<br />

professional solution with one-click auto-process operation for high capacity<br />

analysis of loose diamonds.<br />

J Mini<br />

This portable, semi-automatic detector was launched just two months ago<br />

at JCK Las Vegas <strong>2019</strong>. It is DRC Techno’s most cost effective and portable<br />

instrument, featuring a ‘one click’ process that makes it ideal for jewellers on<br />

buying trips. It can analyse both loose and mounted stones.<br />

ACCURACY: 98%<br />

SIZE (cm): 33.5(w) x 30.5( d) x 40.5(h)<br />

WEIGHT: 22kg<br />

PORTABLE: No<br />

DIAMOND ® SIZE: 0.003+ carats<br />

FEED OF STONES: Manual<br />

MULTIPLE STONES: Yes<br />

SET JEWELLERY: No<br />

SPEED: 45 to 60 seconds per scan.<br />

PRICE: US$11,999<br />

ACCURACY: Variable<br />

SIZE (cm): 16.5(w) x 25(d) x 15.5(h)<br />

WEIGHT: 6kg<br />

PORTABLE: Yes<br />

DIAMOND ® SIZE: 0.003+ carats<br />

FEED OF STONES: Manual<br />

MULTIPLE STONES: Yes<br />

SET JEWELLERY: Yes<br />

SPEED: 20 to 30 seconds per scan.<br />

PRICE: US$6,499<br />

®<br />

DRC TECHNO<br />

www.drctechno.com<br />

®<br />

DRC TECHNO<br />

www.drctechno.com<br />

J Smart Pro<br />

Another new addition to the DRC Techno detector family, the J Smart Pro<br />

debuted at JCK Las Vegas <strong>2019</strong> in June. It is the advanced version of the original<br />

J Smart and comes with integrated fluorescent light for easy on-screen analysis<br />

and interpretation. It also has a 360-degree auto-rotate function to scan<br />

eternity rings and bangles with ease.<br />

J Detect 9000<br />

A mid-range manual diamond detector, the J Detect 9000 identifies any<br />

number of loose or mounted diamonds that can fit in its 12.5cm x 12.5cm tray.<br />

Suitable for experienced gemmologists and diamond examiners, the detector’s<br />

purchase price includes a Windows 10 laptop.<br />

ACCURACY: 98%<br />

SIZE (cm): 41(w) x 39.5(d) x 47.5(h)<br />

WEIGHT: 30kg<br />

PORTABLE: No<br />

DIAMOND ® SIZE: 0.003+ carats<br />

FEED OF STONES: Manual<br />

MULTIPLE STONES: Yes<br />

SET JEWELLERY: Yes<br />

SPEED: 45 to 90 seconds per scan.<br />

PRICE: US$22,499<br />

ACCURACY: Variable<br />

SIZE (cm): 31.5(w) x 27.5(d) x 38(h)<br />

WEIGHT: 14kg<br />

PORTABLE: No<br />

DIAMOND ® SIZE: 0.003+ carats<br />

FEED OF STONES: Manual<br />

MULTIPLE STONES: Yes<br />

SET JEWELLERY: Yes<br />

SPEED: 25 to 30 seconds per scan<br />

PRICE: US$9,999<br />

®<br />

DRC TECHNO<br />

www.drctechno.com<br />

®<br />

DRC TECHNO<br />

www.drctechno.com<br />

32 <strong>Jeweller</strong> August <strong>2019</strong>


GIAiD100<br />

This detector is based on the GIA’s 60 years of diamond and gemstone<br />

identification research. It can distinguish HPHT and CVD diamonds, as well<br />

as simulants. It’s strength lies in its ease of use – the ‘Pass’ or ‘Refer’ results are<br />

displayed in less than two seconds. However, it does not detect simulants such<br />

as cubic zirconia or synthetic moissanite.<br />

Sherlock Holmes 2.0<br />

Named after the legendary fictional detective, the Sherlock Holmes 2.0<br />

synthetic diamond tester instantly detects both CVD and HPHT diamonds, as<br />

well as being able to identify if natural diamonds have been colour-enhanced<br />

through HPHT. The bonus feature of the 2.0 model is the ability to detect loose<br />

diamond simulants cubic zirconia and synthetic moissanite.<br />

ACCURACY: 100% referred for further testing<br />

FEED OF STONES: Manual<br />

ACCURACY: 100%<br />

FEED OF STONES: Manual<br />

SIZE (cm): 16.5(w) x 20(d) x 8(h)<br />

MULTIPLE STONES: No<br />

SIZE (cm): 15 (w) x 24 (d) x 15 (h)<br />

MULTIPLE STONES: Yes<br />

WEIGHT: 1.02 kg<br />

SET JEWELLERY: Yes<br />

WEIGHT: 2.2kg<br />

SET JEWELLERY: Yes<br />

PORTABLE: Yes<br />

SPEED: 440<br />

PORTABLE: Yes<br />

SPEED: 530 stones per hour<br />

DIAMOND SIZE: 0.005+ carat<br />

PRICE: US$4,995<br />

DIAMOND SIZE: Any<br />

PRICE: US$6,495<br />

GEMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE OF AMERICA<br />

www.gia.edu/id100<br />

YEHUDA DIAMOND COMPANY<br />

www.yehuda.com<br />

Manufacturing quality gold jewellery since 1990<br />

Specialising in hollow, solid & silver filled gold pieces<br />

JAA IJF SYDNEY<br />

STAND C33<br />

WWW.GOLDENMILE.COM.AU<br />

Golden Mile <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Manufacturers<br />

24 Kingsley Close, Rowville, Vic 3178<br />

sales@goldenmile.com.au 03 9753 3977


SYNTHETIC DETECTORS BUYING GUIDE<br />

<strong>Diamond</strong>Sure<br />

DE BEERS GROUP INDUSTRY SERVICES<br />

The light, portable option from<br />

De Beers can detect both loose<br />

and mounted stones. Results are<br />

automatic, so there’s no result<br />

interpretation required. As this<br />

screener has a false-positive rate of 2<br />

per cent, the company recommends<br />

stones be referred for further testing<br />

with the <strong>Diamond</strong>View detector.<br />

ACCURACY: 100% referred for further testing<br />

SIZE (cm): 17(w) x 26(d) x 10(h)<br />

WEIGHT: 3.5kg<br />

PORTABLE: Yes<br />

DIAMOND SIZE: 0.005 to 10-carat<br />

FEED OF STONES: Manual<br />

MULTIPLE STONES: No<br />

SET JEWELLERY: Yes<br />

SPEED: 193<br />

PRICE: US$18,200<br />

MORE INFORMATION: iidgr.com/innovation<br />

SYNTHdetect<br />

DE BEERS GROUP INDUSTRY SERVICES<br />

The latest addition to the De Beers<br />

screening range, SYNTHdetect is<br />

designed to test jewellery-mounted<br />

stones – though it can also be<br />

used for loose diamonds. It has<br />

a lower size limit than other<br />

De Beers detectors.<br />

ACCURACY: 100% referred for further testing<br />

SIZE (cm): 31(w) x 34(d) x 45.8(h)<br />

WEIGHT: 30 kg<br />

PORTABLE: No<br />

DIAMOND SIZE: 0.001 to 100-carat<br />

FEED OF STONES: Manual<br />

MULTIPLE STONES: Yes<br />

SET JEWELLERY: Yes<br />

SPEED: 583<br />

PRICE: US$17,000<br />

MORE INFORMATION: iidgr.com/innovation<br />

<strong>Diamond</strong>View<br />

DE BEERS GROUP INDUSTRY SERVICES<br />

NEW COLLECTION<br />

COMING SOON<br />

Proudly distributed by<br />

This detector uses short-wave UV<br />

light to measure fluorescence,<br />

indicating whether a diamond in<br />

natural or CVD synthetic. It requires<br />

the operator to interpret the test<br />

results, so is best suited to retailers<br />

with experience in examining<br />

synthetic diamonds.<br />

ACCURACY: 100%<br />

SIZE (cm): 20(w) x 40(d) x 25(h)<br />

WEIGHT: 13 kg<br />

PORTABLE: No<br />

DIAMOND SIZE: 0.01 to 10-carat<br />

FEED OF STONES: Manual<br />

MULTIPLE STONES: No<br />

SET JEWELLERY: Yes<br />

SPEED: 112<br />

PRICE: US$35,000<br />

MORE INFORMATION: iidgr.com/innovation<br />

02 9417 0177 | www.dgau.com.au


M-Screen+<br />

HRD ANTWERP<br />

European diamond grading lab HRD<br />

Antwerp developed the M-Screen+.<br />

It is a fully automated desktop<br />

detector designed to screen very<br />

large quantities of stones at high<br />

speed – three diamonds per second<br />

– making it suitable for industrial use.<br />

ACCURACY: 100% referred for further testing<br />

SIZE (cm): 45(w) x 30(d) x 55(h)<br />

WEIGHT: 45kg<br />

PORTABLE: No<br />

DIAMOND SIZE: 0.005-0.20-carat<br />

FEED OF STONES: Automatic<br />

MULTIPLE STONES: Yes<br />

SET JEWELLERY: No<br />

SPEED: 12,317<br />

PRICE: US$63,000<br />

MORE INFORMATION: hrdantwerp.com<br />

<strong>Synthetic</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong><br />

Screener II<br />

PRESIDIUM<br />

Presidium is an industry leader in<br />

gemmological tools. Its SDS II model<br />

is portable, affordable, and measures<br />

both loose and mounted stones.<br />

Lightweight and battery-operated,<br />

it is a convenient screener with easyto-understand<br />

colour-coded results.<br />

ACCURACY: 100% referred for further testing<br />

SIZE (cm): 13(w) x 10(d) x 6.5(h)<br />

WEIGHT: 0.21 kg<br />

PORTABLE: Yes<br />

DIAMOND SIZE: 0.02 to 10 carat<br />

FEED OF STONES: Manual<br />

MULTIPLE STONES: No<br />

SET JEWELLERY: Yes<br />

SPEED: 240<br />

PRICE: US$599<br />

MORE INFORMATION: presidium.com.sg<br />

<strong>Diamond</strong>Dect3<br />

TAIDIAM TECHNOLOGY<br />

Developed by China’s Taidiam<br />

Technology, the <strong>Diamond</strong>Dect3 tests<br />

both mounted and loose diamonds,<br />

making it ideal for retailers. It will<br />

produce results of ‘Natural’, ‘CVD<br />

<strong>Synthetic</strong>’ or ‘Abnormal’, with the<br />

latter requiring further testing by<br />

a gemmologist.<br />

ACCURACY: 99.5%<br />

SIZE (cm): 22(w) x 20(d) x 12(h)<br />

WEIGHT: 3kg<br />

PORTABLE: Yes<br />

DIAMOND SIZE: 0.05 to 10 carat<br />

FEED OF STONES: Manual<br />

MULTIPLE STONES: No<br />

SET JEWELLERY: Yes<br />

SPEED: 289<br />

PRICE: US$5,730<br />

MORE INFORMATION: taidiam.com<br />

+61 2 9266 0636 +61 2 9266 0969<br />

enquiries@ikecho.com.au<br />

www.ikecho.com.au


COLOUR<br />

IS VITAL<br />

THE VITAL SOURCE FOR NATURAL FANCY<br />

YELLOW DIAMONDS<br />

Wales Corner<br />

Suite 1204, 227 Collins Street<br />

Melbourne Victoria 3000<br />

Australia<br />

Ph: (03) 9639 1008<br />

Fax: (03) 9639 0179<br />

sales@vitaldiamonds.com.au<br />

www.vitaldiamonds.com.au<br />

OVER 35 YEARS EXPERIENCE IN DIAMOND MANUFACTURING AND WHOLESALING

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