Circumnavigation of Icelan - July 31 to Aug 07, 2019

31 st of July – 7 th of August, 2019 

Volume 1, Issue 10 

The Albatros 

CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF 

ICELAND 

THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF

The Albatros 

Editor-in-Chief: 

Staff Writers: 

Layout & Design: 

Expedition Leader: 

Assistant Expedition Leader: 

Shop Manager: 

Expedition Photographer: 

Zodiac Master: 

Kayak Master: 

Rifle Master: 

Expedition Guide/Lecturer: 

Front Cover Image: 

Back Cover Image: 

Photography Contributors: 

Yeti (Jes Gravgaard) 

Steve Egan 

Yeti and Gaby Pilson 

Lars Maltha Rasmussen 

Barbara Post 

Ted Creek 

Nadine Smith 

Yuri Choufour 

Steve Traynor 

Slava Nikitin 

Yeti (Jes Gravgaard) 

Isabelle Howells 

Yeti Gravgaard 

Sara Hoffritz 

Jon Danielson 

Bjørn Christensen 

Mikaela Von Koskull 

Dorte Christiansen 

Erna Kjartansdottir 

Nadia Benouddane 

Yuri Choufour 

Gaby Pilson 

Renato Granieri Photography 

Gaby Pilson 

Yuri Choufour 

© Gaby Pilson 

© Yuri Choufour 

31 July – 07 August , 2019 Volume 1, Issue 10

TABLE OF CONTENTS 

The Voyage 

By the Numbers 

Day 1: The Voyage Begins 

The Seven Sisters of Szczecin 

Day 2: Surtsey & Vestmannaey 

Puffin Facts 

Day 3: Djúpivogur 

Food For Survival 

Day 4: Husavìk & Grimsey 

Day 5: Hrisey, Akureyri & Myvatn 

Day 6: Hornbjarg Cliff & Vigur Island 

Day 7: Anarstapi 

A Brief History of the Zodiac 

Day 8: Home again 

A Final Note 

4 

5 

6 

7 

8 

9 

10 

11 

12 

13 

14 

15 

16 

17 

18

The Voyage 

Page 4 

The following map traces the approximate route that the M/V Ocean Atlantic took during our 

voyage around Iceland. You can find more information about our day to day activities, landings, and 

excursions on the following pages. We hope that this magazine serves as a reminder of all of the 

wonderful memories you made while experiencing the wonders of Iceland with us at Albatros 

Expeditions. 




31 July – 07 August , 2019 

Volume 1, Issue 10

By the Numbers… 

Page 5 

Voyage Statistics: 

Northernmost Point: 66 o 34.700’N, 16 o 19.200’W 

Total Distance Travelled: 1017 nautical miles 

Numbers of guests: 119 

Excursion Locations: 

Reykjavik: 

Surtsey 

Vestmannaey 

Djúpivogur 

Grimsey 

Hrisey 

Akureyri 

Hornbjarg: 

Vigur: 

Anarstapi: 

Reykjavik: 

64 o 09.037’N, 21 o 51.366’W 

63 o 21.826’N, 20 o 22.962’W 

63 o 21.826’N, 20 o 22.962’W 

64 o 51.237’N, 14 o 28.897’W 

66 o 31.929’N, 18 o 01.064’W 

65 o 58.445’N, 18 o 23.828’W 

65 o 42.211’N, 18 o 08.740’W 

66 o 29.672’N, 22 o 35.587’W 

66 o 02.309’N, 22 o 48.756’W 

64 o 45.286’N, 23 o 18.809’W 

64 o 09.464’N, 21 o 51.650’W 




Volume 1, Issue 10

DAY 1: The Voyage Begins 

31 st of July 2019 - By Steve Egan, Expedition Guide 

Page 6 

From the Voyage Log 

In the early hours of the morning, MV Ocean 

Atlantic, glided into the safe harbour of one of the 

worlds most northerly of ports, Reykjavik, in Iceland. 

The city’s name translates from ‘Smoke Cove’ & 

refers to the original sightings of haze from the 

thermal springs in the area. While the first 

settlement of the country began here well over a 

thousand years before today, it is only in the last 

two centuries that this cosmopolitan yet relaxed 

city, has grown noticeably in size. Docked at an 

outer city port, we came alongside to a fairly 

deserted pier. 

By Sigfús Eymundsson 

By Johan Peter Raadsig 

Port days are busy & intensely organised days for 

the ship’s hard-working crew, & with 119 guests 

flying in to join us from as far afield as Asia, North 

America & & also many from nearby Europe, we 

had much to prepare to welcome them all in the 

best way. In warm Icelandic summer weather, we 

cleaned our good ship & loaded our necessities. 

Soon enough our guests began to arrive from 

various hotels & airport transfers; it’s always an 

exciting time to meet new faces that would share 

the journey with us & with a complete 

circumnavigation of Iceland ahead of us, there was 

much to look forward to! Aromas of coffee & tasty 

snacks as we enjoyed some afternoon tea were 

most welcome! 

With formalities completed - luggage placed in 

cabins, passports collected for safe-keeping, those 

newly arrived guests wandered about our good ship, 

getting to know what would become home for the 

next week of adventures. 

In the Viking Theatre, a safety drill cleared us to sail 

away from port, Hotel Manager Oliver introduced us 

to the vessel & Expedition Leader Lars welcomed us 

to our Expedition & briefed us on the detail of 

tomorrows destination, kicking off our exploration 

of this interesting country. A mandatory safety 

briefing for traveling by Zodiac followed to set us up 

for our travel to & from the ship in comfort. It was 

already time for a social dinner in our Vinland 

restaurant, thoroughly enjoyed as MV Ocean 

Atlanticsailed for the horizon. 

After dinner nightcaps were enjoyed in the lounge 

or Piano Bar, it was time to rest after a long day of 

travel & the deep sleep that comes with much 

excitement & warm summer sun. 

Let the adventures begin! 


31 July – 07 August, 2019 Volume 1, Issue 10

The Seven Sisters of Szczecin 

David MacDonald, Lecturer (Geology) & Expedition Guide 

M/V Ocean Atlantic was launched in 1986 as the 

last-built of the ‘Shoshtakovich’ class of icestrengthened 

passenger vessels, alongside six sister 

ships, together known as the “Seven Sisters of 

Szczecin. 

Her original name was Konstantin Chernenko 

(Константин Черненко), after the President of the 

USSR (1984-1985). She was renamed Russ (Русс) in 

1989, and spent much of her life working in the 

Russian Far East. 

She was purchased by Albatros Expeditions and 

completely refitted in 2017. She is now a 200- 

passenger expedition vessel and is one of the 

strongest polar cruise ships afloat. Here are some 

fun facts about the “Seven Sisters”: 

• All seven ships were built by Stocnia Szczecinska 

shipyard inSzczecin, Poland between 1979-1986 

• Main engines: 4 x Skoda Sulzer 6LZ40 total power 

12800 kW, giving a maximum speed of 18 knots 

• Most of the class have one bow thruster (736 kW) 

and one stern thruster (426 kW); however, two 

ships, including ours, built in 1986, have two stern 

thrusters, each of 426 kW 

• Feature Siemens stabilisers for seaworthiness 

• Although built as ferries, they have a 

strengthened car deck for transport of tanks 

• Two of them had diving chambers 

Page 7 

• MV Mikhail Sholokov had hull demagnetising 

equipment so itcould operate inminefields 

• All of these ships have been scrapped except ours 

and Konstantin Simonov –now Ocean Endeavour 

Our ship has had a complex history: 

1986-1987 In Baltictraffic, then Vladivostok to 

Japan & S Korea 

1989 renamed to Russ 

1997-1999 In traffic Stockholm-Riga; 2000 

Odessa-Haifa; 2002 back to 

Vladivostok transporting cars from 

Japan 

2007 Sold to Sea Ferry Shipping inMajuro 

and renamed 2010 to Atlantic; 

renovations inItaly and intraffic 

Stockholm-Helsinki-St.Petersburg 

during summer and laid up (October 

2010) inSt Petersburg 

2012 Sold to ISP inMiami and renamed to 

Ocean Atlantic under Marshall 

Islands flag 

2013 Used as a hotel ship inthe German 

bight wind farm project 

2015-2017 Laid up inHelsingborg and taken to 

Gdansk in Poland, where totally 

refitted 

2017 Chartered to Quark Expeditions 

2017-present Chartered to Albatros Expeditions. 

© Renato Granieri Photography 


Volume 1, Issue 10

DAY 2: Surtsey & Vestmannaey 

1 st of August 2019 - By Yuri Choufour, Expedition Photographer 

We began our morning with a slow sail past the 

famous volcanic island of Surtsey, the Westernmost 

island of the Westman islands archipelago of 15 

islands. Also holding the title of youngest island in 

the group, Surtsey first rose out of the sea during a 

volcanic eruption beginning in 1963, which lasted 

for almost three years. Several other islands 

surfaced during this eruption, but were quickly 

broken down by the strong Atlantic waves. Surtsey 

is off limits to tourists, but scientists have performed 

ongoing studies of the flora and fauna, and also 

keep a record of the debris & garbage that washes 

ashore on the island. 

© Nadia © Yuri Benouddane 

Choufur 

Surtsey has established green patches with an array 

of vegetation, which is well fertilized by the large 

colonies of seabirds, in particular the Northern 

gannet. Shortly after passing Surtsey and a few 

more small islands, we eventually reach Heimay, the 

largest of them all, and home to about four 

thousand people. Heimaey is a powerhouse in the 

fishing industry, with a large chunk of the Icelandic 

revenue generated there by the islands fishermen 

and business folks. 

Page 8 


© Yuri Choufur 

Tourism is growing to the island, and the daily ferry 

between the mainland and Heimay brings cars and 

tourists and is the lifeline for freight and so on. We 

managed to dock alongside in the port, which made 

landing a breeze - no wet or dry Zodiac landings 

today. The passengers were split into several 

groups, making long and shorter walks exploring the 

town, but all ended up in the very interesting 

eruption museum and received an IPOD 

introduction in their languages about the 1973 

eruption that laid a large part of the town to waste. 





© Yeti 

Several hundred houses are still buried © deep Yuri Choufur down 

below the enormous lava stream, which originated 

from a 1.3 kilometres long fissure above town, that 

eventually started flowing down towards the town 

centre, burying one street after the other. 

On that fateful night in 1973, the towns inhabitants 

luckily managed to escape to the mainland, as the 

fishing fleet had been in port due to a bad storm the 

day before. Most inhabitants eventually came back 

to rebuild their homes, showing the true spirit of the 

Icelandic people. 

Volume 1, Issue 10

Puffins Facts 

Nadia Benouddane, Expedition Guide 

Page 9 

The puffin is Iceland’s most iconic bird and one which both tourist and locals love to see in the wild. In the 

past, struggling coastal communities like Iceland had to use all of its natural resources available for survival. 

This included eating these adorable little birds. While the Atlantic Puffin is now protected by legislation in 

other countries, Iceland and the Faroe Islands still allow puffin hunting. 

1 

During the summer, Iceland is the home of 

around 10 million puffins, with the largest 

breeding colonies in the Westman Islands 

archipelago. The islands, just 10 km south of 

the mainland, hold around 20% of the world’s 

Atlantic Puffin population, making it the largest 

puffin colony in the world. However, in recent 

years, the puffin colonies have started to 

decline. This is not believed to be because of 

habitat destruction or overhunting, but 

because of several failed breeding seasons. 

Due to dwindling numbers of birds, temporary 

restrictions on hunting have been made to 

protect the species. 

3 

There are four species of puffins, three of them 

are appearing quite similar. The Atlantic and 

the Horned Puffin look alike, with the 

exception of a blue-grey triangle at the base of 

the Atlantic puffin’s beak and the horn puffin 

has a horns pointing out fro the eyes. During 

the breeding season, straw-like golden 

coloured feathers protrude from the crown of 

the tufted puffin’s head and the body is 

entirely black. The fourth species, the 

rhinoceros auklet, doesn’t look like the other 

three – it’s ashen coloured, with a rhino-like 

protrusion during the breeding season. But it’s 

still technically a puffin. 

2 

Puffins 

are called several names based on their 

appearance. Puffin is thought to come from the 

word puff, meaning swollen, because the fluffy 

pufflings do appear rather round. Puffins have 

also been referred to as the clowns of the 

ocean or sea parrots. These last ones spend 

most of their life out in the sea where just 

before winter they shed the outer layer of their 

beak, leaving them smaller and duller. When 

spring arrives, though, their beaks return to 

their bright form, just intime for mating season 



4 

When starting a puffin family, our feathered 

friends dig out a burrow using their sharp 

claws and beak, usually in a grassy bank or 

rocky crevice. At the back of their burrow 

home, they build a nest lined with feathers 

and grass where the female lays a single egg. 

Both parents take it in turn to incubate the 

egg for the next 36-45 days before the baby 

“puffling” hatches. The young will follow the 

parents to the sea and will only return to the 

colony when it reaches the maturity to breed 

at the age of five. 


Volume 1, Issue 10

DAY 3: Djúpivogur 

2 nd of August 2019 – By Sara E. Hoffritz, Expedition Guide From the Voyage Log 

Page 10 

© Yeti 

The excursions today offered something for the bird 

lovers, something for the rock lovers and something 

for the nature lovers. We reached the small harbour 

in Djúpivogur by zodiacs which was the starting 

point of the day’s different excursions. 

The first group boarded a convoy of huge 4x4 jeeps 

and set off for a tour to visit the Hoffelsjökull 

Glacier. The Hoffelsjökull Glacier is one of the outlet 

glaciers merging down from the large Vatnajökull Ice 

Cap. It was formed during the 

© 

little 

Yuri 

Ice 

Choufour 

Age, which 

began around the 1450, but it is now retreating. This 

retreat has resulted in a pro-glacial lake between 

the glacier front and the old terminal moraine, 

where numerous small blocks of ice float around in 

the murky water. 

The second group spent the morning in Djúpivogur 

with our local guides Jón and Erna, who gave an 

insight into the local history of this charming village 

where trading dates back to 1589 and where fishing 

isthe main industry. 

On the local trip around the village the group also 

visited the workshop that hosts the Mineral 

Collection of Auðunn, where stunning, polished 

rocks from the local area cover the walls. 



© Yeti 

The third group went on a scenic route around the 

wetlands of Djúpivogur with Yeti and Lars to observe 

the wonderful birdlife in their natural environment. 

Almost 50 different bird species were spotted this 

day; specialy the Islandic Black-tailed Godwit. 

Both the birdlife and landscape around Djúpivogur 

have a great variety. The mountains surrounding the 

fjord consist of layers upon layers of basaltic lava 

that was formed 3 million years ago. This includes 

the beautiful pyramid-shaped mountain, 

Búlandstindur, which is the highest peak in Iceland 

rising directly from the sea. 

Once everyone was back on the ship Slava and Steve 

gave an introduction for those interested in using 

our onboard kayaks. 

As we sailed northwards to our next stop at Grímsey 

and the Arctic Circle, many of us took the 

opportunity to go out on deck and enjoy the setting 

sun. 


© Yuri Choufour © Bjørn Christensen 

© Yeti 


Volume 1, Issue 10

Food For Survival 

Nadia Benouddane , Expedition Guide 

Page 11 

In the past, resources in Iceland were few and far between; the lack of sunlight severely limited fishing 

and hunting options. Therefore, for centuries Icelanders had to smoke, pickle or dry their food in order 

to preserve it through the harsh winters. As a result, traditional Icelandic food mainly consists of fish, 

seafood and lamb that's gone through some kind of preservation method. 

© web source 

But surrounding Iceland is the bountiful North 

Atlantic Ocean, and as an island nation, nothing has 

been more vital to this people's survival than fishing. 

It was not only to put food on the Icelandic table 

but also fish export helped transform the country 

from one of the poorest in Europe at the beginning 

of the 19th century to one of the richest today. In 

the early days Icelanders instead of eating a piece of 

bread with a meal, as was the custom in 

neighbouring countries, Icelanders ate dried 

stockfish. Although it is not eaten quite as much 

today, stockfish known as Harðfiskur remains one of 

the most popular dishes of the old Icelandic 

tradition. 

© web source 

Along with the fish, sheep have been the lifeblood 

of this nation since its arrival with the Vikings. Its 

wool has kept the nation warm, and its meat has 

helped keep them alive through severe climate 

conditions. Though famous for its wool used in 

‘lopapeysa’ woolly sweater, the Icelandic sheep is 

mainly farmed for its meat. Each spring, the sheep 

are let out of their pen to roam freely around the 

countryside, spending the whole summer grazing in 

the pesticide-free wilderness. 

Since the climate prevents the growth of grain, the 

sheep live on grass, angelica, berries and seaweed. 

© web source 

The Icelanders did not only cure, dry or smoke their 

food, they have also made good use of the 

geothermal energy to bake the unique to the 

country ‘Lava baked bread ’ which is still made in 

the same manners it has been done the last 100 

years. This lava baked rye bread is very popular in 

the country. It's a dark bread, that's got a particular 

taste and that is slightly sweet. 

Nonetheless, it's not a pastry and is mostly eaten on 

its own with butter, accompanying fish or hung and 

smoked lamb ’hangikjöt’ 

With new times come new technologies and knowledge. Icelanders have learnt to utilise the natural 

surroundings, especially in regards to geothermal energy and travels abroad brought all kinds of ideas 

which, combined with traditional ingredients, created some incredible fusions of flavours. In Reykjavík 

City, you’ll find a plethora of multi-cultural restaurants as well as a large local food scene in style with 

the New Nordic Cuisine movementwhere the emphasis ison purity, simplicity and freshness. 


Volume 1, Issue 10

DAY 4: Husavìk & Grimsey 

3 rd of August 2019 – By Isabelle Howells, Expedition Guide 

Page 12 


In the afternoon, Isabelle held a lecture in the 

theatre, and had a lot to talk about to cover the 

exciting wildlife experiences of the last days. Puffins 

were discussed, and we learnt about Skjalfandi bay, 

situated just south of Grimsey on the coast of 

Iceland. This bay is renowned for being one of the 

best feeding areas for whales in this part of the 

world, and known as being a rare place where itis 



As we anchored off Grimsey on Saturday morning, 

we could admire this wedge-shaped island before 

the fog descended and blanketed the land. With the 

arctic circle cutting through the northern most 

point, this curious land mass is the only part of 

Iceland to be considered in the Arctic. Many of us 

trekked the length of the island to what was for 

some of us, the furthest north we’ve ever travelled. 

Grimsey, which is inhabited year-round by families 

involved mostly in the fishing industry, also benefits 

from the visitors it received by ferry and cruise 

ships. With no predators such as Arctic foxes on the 

island, Grimsey is a true paradise for birds. We were 

lucky enough to see scores of nesting puffins and 

swooping arcticturns looking out for their young. 


© Gaby Pilson 

© James Floyd 


possible to see blue whales so close to shore, at 

certain times of the year. Just as we were learning 

about whale identification, an announcement came 

that there were dolphins and a humpback whale to 

be seen outside! 

After a couple of hours of admiring humpbacks 

around the ship, we headed a little further south to 

observe the fantastic coastline between Skjalfandi 

bay and Eyjafjörður. That evening’s briefing was 

accompanied by Mikaela’s recap about the Arctic 

Circle. The busy day was topped off with a quiz 

hosted by Fredrik, our expert on all things Iceland 

related. 

© Yeti 

After lunch back onboard Ocean Atlantic, it was time 

for the Polar Plunge! We stayed anchored in order 

to be as close to the Arctic Circle as possible and 

many brave guests donned their swimsuits and leapt 

off the gangway and into the bitterly cold water. 

People warmed up quickly once out with a dry towel 

and a vodka shot! 



Volume 1, Issue 10

DAY 5: Hrisey, Akureyri & Myvatn 

4 th of August 2019 – By Mikaela von Koskull , Expedition Guide 


In perfectly calm conditions, but under an overcast 

sky we landed by zodiacs on Hrisey Island. Soon 

after the landing, the party split into various 

groups; first group went on a short hike around the 

village and the second group joined the long hike 

and birdwatch tour around the island. Our local 

guide introduced the island history on a short 

briefing once we reached the village and while 

walking, we came across many of the island 

plants, flowers and birds. Hrisey is home to over 40 

species of birds, such as the Ptarmigan, the Merlin 

Falcon and the Redpol. 


Page 13 


Shortly after our return by zodiac to the ship, M/V 

Ocean Atlantic set sail toward our next destination, 

Akureyri Harbor where our excursion busses and 

local guides were waiting for us to lead us during 

our afternoon excursion. Through bus ride and 

Icelandic tails we made our way to the 

spectacular Godafoss where the water of the 

Skjalfandafljot river falls from a height of 12 meters 

over a width of 30 meters. There we enjoyed 40 

minutes free walk along the site. 

We then came back to our bus and drove toward 

the beautiful lake Myvatn. On arrival we were 

welcomed with a fresh Tomato soup and right after 

regaining some energy we continued our excursion 

to the lake sighting areas. Myvatn is a shallow 

eutrophic lake of active volcanism in the north of 

Iceland, it was created 2300 years ago by a large 

basaltic lava eruption. The lake is fed by nutrientrich 

spring water and has a high abundance of 

aquatic insects that form an attractive food supply 

and home to 13 duck and other bird species. 

Soon after, we walked further to the dramatic 

structures of Dimmuborgir where we spent some 

time sightseeing the area. We finished our day 

adventures by visiting the Namafjall geothermal 

area which is also known as Hverir thermal baths. 

There we observed the many smoking fumaroles 

and boiling mud pots before our adventure in 

Myvatn area ended and we headed back through 

the new, 7 kilometer long tunnel to the harbor and 

to the waiting ship. As we sat down for yet another 

dinner in the Vinland restaurant, M/V Ocean 

Atlantic slowly made her way out the fjord, towards 

open waters and new adventures. 



Volume 1, Issue 10

DAY 6: Hornbjarg Cliff & Vigur Island 

5 th of August 2019 - By Dorte A. Christiansen, Hiking Master 


The morning started with a very early sailing beside 

the steep Hornbjarg sea mounts, covered in 

romantic mist. Most of the guillemots had left their 

nest on the steep cliff, but some were still moving 

around on the waves. The ocean was rather calm 

and eventually the sun showed her warm rays and 

made the stay outside on deck a great experience. 

The ships hotel staff treated us with an excellent 

Barbeque buffet on the aft deck. 

Page 14 


© Yeti 

An hour later, we sailed into the fjord and anchored 

opposite the village of Súðavík on the southern part 

of the island Vigur. Vigur means a spearhead due to 

the shape of the island, with a sharp point. Zodiacs 

with a dry landing took place in this wonderful island 

where the four groups landing were staggered in 

order to facilitate the work of the local guides, who 

are from the family living on the island. The fifth 

group who had been on the kayak activity offered 

by our Kayak Master Slava and Steve also joined the 

island later to enjoy the splendid view on the fjord. 

©Yeti 

The walk started at the Eider down workshop 

located just next to the oldest seaworthy boat in 

Iceland. The ship being 200 years old, was used 

recently to ship out the last 70 sheep from the 

island to the mainland. Tourists are now the new 

“sheep” on the island and provide an income for the 

inhabitants. The down from the eiders is mainly 

exported to Japan where it is used for down 

comforters, selling at very high prices. There are 

3.600 eiders nesting and they produce about 60 

kilos of eider down annually. 

We later walked toward the windmill, where while 

facing the fjord a fur seal appeared on the surface 

on the water and by further observation we noticed 

another one resting on the beach. 

During our walk around the island, apart from the 

big artic tern colony we were fortunate to see 

ravens, puffins, black guillemots and a few Gyr 

Falcons roaming above us. Terns tried to protect 

their nests by flying close to our heads, so in order 

to keep them afar we all had sticks to hold up into 

the air. At the end of our walk we were invited into 

the owner's cafe indulging in rhubarb pie, date 

bread and home baked bread as well as a delicious 

cup of tea and coffee. 

The weather could not have been better today and 

engulfed in sunshine we were shuttled back on 

board. We got the amazing show of 2 or 3 

humpback whales showing their fluke many times 

and several breaching. A perfect end to a perfect 

day. 


Volume 1, Issue 10

DAY 7: Arnarstapi 

6 th of August 2019 – By Bjørn Christensen, Expedition Guide 

Page 15 


In the forecast for today strong winds around Flatey 

were predicted. Previous attempts to visit the island 

under such conditions have failed, therefore it was 

instead decided to call at the village of Arnarstapi 

situated on the south side of the western part of the 

Snefællsnes peninsula. 

Arnastapi, also just known as Stapi, is a small fishing 

village at the foot of Mt. Stapafell. Just below the 

magnificient Snefælls Jökul. 

Snefælls Jökull was the entry point to the interior of 

the planet for the characters in Jules Verne's ”A 

Journey to the Centre of the Earth”. It is also known 

as the resting place of Bárður, the half human half 

org, described inthe Icelandic Sagas. 


Photo 

©Yuri Choufour 


Photo 

After anchoring at 8 o'clock, a wet landing was 

announced, however we barely got our boots wet 

when disembarking the zodiacs by turning over the 

edge, stepping on to the yellow box and walking up 

the blue carpet rolled out for us. 

The clouds lifted, and we could enjoy calm and 

sunny weather, during the whole visit. 

Three different walks were offered. A long walk over 

the lava fields to the nearby village of Hellnar, a 

shorter walk, and one for the ”birdies”. 

Coming up from the harbor we could see the giant 

sculpture of the half human half org Bárður 

overlooking his territory. 

We were greeted by hundreds of arctic terns 

aggressively protecting and feeding their chicks. The 

kittiwakes screaming their name out was the sound 

carpet for the visit to this pearl of Snefællsnæs. 



©Sara Hoffritz 

© Yuri Choufur © Yeti 


Volume 1, Issue 10

A Brief History of the Zodiac 

Steve Traynor, Zodiac Master 

Page 16 

In expedition cruising, the most important tool we use is the Zodiac inflatable boat. These manoeuvrable, 

reliable, robust vessels are the workhorse of the expedition cruise industry, from the north of Svalbard to 

the southern end of the Antarctic Peninsula. They have a long history – as you can see from the stages 

below, many differentinventions needed to come together to create the craft we use today. 

© Renato Granieri Photography 

1838 Charles Goodyear (USA) discovered the process for vulcanising rubber (a US patent was granted 

in 1844) – this process is used for hardening and strengthening rubber. 

1843 Goodyear’s process was stolen by Thomas Hancock (UK) using the process of reverse 

engineering; less controversially, Hancock invented the “masticator” –a machine for re-using 

rubber scraps – this made the rubber industry much more efficient. 

1845 The first successful inflatable boat (Halkett boat) was designed by Lieutenant Peter Halkett 

(UK), specifically for Arctic operations. Halkett Boats were used by the Orcadian explorer, John 

Rae, in his successful expedition to discover the fate of the Franklin Expedition. 

1866 Four men made the first crossing of the Atlantic Ocean from New York to Britain on a three - 

tube inflatable raft. 

1896 The original Zodiac company was founded by Maurice Mallet (France) to produce airships. 

1909 The first outboard motor was invented by Ole Evinrude in Milwaukee, Wisconsin. 

1912 The loss of the Titanic and subsequent shipping losses during World War 1 proved the need for 

inflatable rafts for use as supplementary lifeboats. 

1919 RFD firm (UK) and the Zodiac company (France) started building inflatable boats. 

1934 The airship company, Zodiac, invented the inflatable kayak and catamaran 

1942 The Marine Raiders – an elite unit of the US Marine Corps – used inflatable boats to carry out 

raids and landings in the Pacific theatre. 

1950 Alain Bombard first combined the outboard engine, a rigid floor and an inflatable boat (built by 

the Zodiac company). 

1952 Alain Bombard crossed the Atlantic Ocean with his inflatable; after this, his good friend, the 

famous diver Jacques-Yves Cousteau, started using them. 

1960 Zodiac licensed production to a dozen companies in other countries because of their lack of 

manufacturing capacity in France. 


Volume 1, Issue 10

DAY 8: Home Again 

7 th of August 2019 – Reykjavik From the Voyage Log 

Page 17 

After last night’s end-of-voyage festivities, we 

awoke much too early for our final morning on the 

Ocean Atlantic. As the Ocean Atlantic pulled into its 

anchorage in Reykjavik, we started the process of 

leaving behind the ship and the people we’ve come 

to know so well over the past 7 days. 

Our bags were packed and stowed in the corridors, 

ready for our early-morning busses and flights back 

to Stockholm, and everywhere in between. After 7 

whole days immersed in the landscapes and 

amongst the wildlife of the Arctic, it was time to 

return home or to wherever our life’s journeys 

bring us. 

And so – farewell, adieu, and goodbye. Together we 

have visited an incredible and vast wilderness. We 

have experienced magnificent mountain vistas and 

felt the power of the elements and seen how 

quickly they can change. We enjoyed wonder food 

and comfortable surroundings aboard the Ocean 

Atlantic. 

We have boarded zodiacs and cruised through 

fjords around the land of ice and fire. We have 

shared unique moments, held engaging 

conversations, and laughed together over beers 

and coffees. We’ve made new friends and 

experienced the power of expeditionary travel. 

We hope the expedition team has helped make this 

the trip of a lifetime - one that will persist in your 

memories for weeks, months, and years, to come. 

Although we must say good-bye to these places we 

have come to know and love, it is a fond farewell as 

we are all true ambassadors for the Arctic and all 

the beauty itholds. 

On behalf of Albatros Expeditions, our captain and 

crew, the expedition team, and everyone else who 

helped make this journey a resounding success, it 

has been a pleasure travelling with you. 

We hope that you will come back and experience 

these wonderful places with us once again! 

Team Group photo 

© Yuri Coufour 




Volume 1, Issue 10

A Final Note… 

Page 18 

As any good expedition comes to a close, many of us experience the 

effervescent excitement that comes when we immerse ourselves 

completely in an adventure. Although we all came into this voyage with 

our own expectations and personal motivations, on the ship, we quickly 

learned that the best plan is the one that we end up doing. 

While weather and the landscape 

can conspire against us in the 

northern latitudes, the right mindset 

can make all of the difference. 

Wind, rain, sleet, and snow make 

no difference when we come 

prepared for an adventure and all 

the excitement it holds. Whether 

you saw what you came for or you 

experienced something else 

entirely, when you set out on an 

expedition, you come for the 

mountains and the wildlife, but 

stay for people and places you 

meet along the way. 

Although we all eventually have to 

leave behind our beloved Ocean 

Atlantic, there are always a few 

things we can take home from an 

expedition: 

• An acceptance and 

embracement of adversity and 

uncertainty when the natural 

world alters our plans. 

• A fondness for the wild and a 

strong desire to keep remote 

natural locations as beautiful 

and free as they can be. 

• An insatiable interest in learning 

more about the people, places, 

and cultures in some of the 

most remote parts of the world. 

As you unpack you bags, you may 

find souvenirs and keepsakes from 

your journey. Your camera may be 

filled with countless photos, 

however blurry, of the many 

animals and mountains that have 

crossed our paths. At the end of 

the day, however, what matters 

most is the experience of, the 

journey to, and the memories of 

these wild and wonderful places. 

Best wishes from all of us on the 

expedition team as you continue 

on with your adventures! 

Lars Maltha Rasmussen 

Expedition Leader 

Barbara Post 

Assistant Expedition Leader 

Thank you for experiencing the Arctic with us at Albatros 

Expeditions. We hope to see you aboard the Ocean Atlantic 

again in the future! 

Ted Creek 

Assistant Expedition Leader 

31 July – 07 August, 2019 

Volume 1, Issue 10

Circumnavigation of Icelan - July 31 to Aug 07, 2019

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