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NZPhotographer Issue 23, September 2019

As of December 2022, NZPhotographer magazine is only available when you purchase an annual or monthly subscription via the NZP website. Find out more: www.nzphotographer.nz

As of December 2022, NZPhotographer magazine is only available when you purchase an annual or monthly subscription via the NZP website. Find out more: www.nzphotographer.nz

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SUNSET OVER MT NGAURUHOE<br />

F11, 1/6s, ISO 64<br />

than enough for everything they would ever use it for,<br />

including A3+ prints. The number of megapixels your<br />

camera has, only impacts sharpness if you intend to<br />

make huge prints of your photographs.<br />

Lens – I think lens quality is a more important factor<br />

to consider when it comes to image sharpness. A<br />

camera body only records light; it is the lens that<br />

controls the quality (sharpness) of this light and<br />

focuses it onto the sensor. There is no point owning<br />

a camera with a 45MP sensor and using a cheap<br />

lens that is only capable of 12MP sharpness, and<br />

some low-quality lenses would not even be capable<br />

of rendering this sharpness. Even the very best fullframe<br />

lenses available today are still not capable of<br />

resolving 45MP in terms of sharpness, but some do a<br />

much better job than others.<br />

The DXOMARK website is an excellent resource for<br />

lens tests and saves the work of testing them yourself.<br />

Coming back to my earlier point about the 40MP<br />

phone and why this is a bit of a joke, I doubt the tiny<br />

optics on its lens would be able to resolve much of this<br />

resolution sharply.<br />

Sharpest Aperture / Diffraction – All lenses have a<br />

sweet spot, and you need to test your lens or use a<br />

website like DXOMARK to find out this information.<br />

This will differ from lens to lens. As a go to for most<br />

full-frame camera lenses, your sharpest aperture<br />

will be around f8, with f11 only having very minimal<br />

diffraction. With each aperture narrower than this<br />

(e. g. f16, f22) you will lose noticeable sharpness in your<br />

image due to diffraction.<br />

CORRECT FOCUSING TECHNIQUES<br />

Focusing in the right place and obtaining enough<br />

depth of field to get both your foreground and<br />

background in sharp focus is critical for most<br />

landscape images. A slightly out of focus image<br />

on your camera will be extremely noticeable when<br />

viewed at 1:1 zoom later on your computer and even<br />

more in a large scale print.<br />

AF Point – People tend to rely on their camera’s Auto<br />

AF point selection mode. While using AF is not a<br />

problem we need to take control of the AF system<br />

and where it focuses; by using the Auto AF point<br />

selection, the camera would focus on the closest<br />

subject it can find, and this would likely leave the<br />

background out of focus. By manually selecting our<br />

AF point, we can still utilise the AF system but decide<br />

where we wish the camera to focus within the image<br />

to obtain the best depth of field.<br />

<strong>September</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

51

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